Honda EU3200 - 15k BTU AC Unit?

[jodeb720]

Gents,

My EU2000 has served me well for the last 13 years.
It's a little long in the tooth (a lot of runtime).
Last time I was out with it, I found a bunch of Oil under the frame when I brought it back inside for the winter season.

Next week I'm heading out to So Cal From Colorado - and it's going to be in the 90's for a few days and I'm starting to think of AC...

Have any of you purchased the new EU3200 - and will it power a 15k AC unit? I know it'll run the 13.5 unit - it's 2600 watts continuous but I wasn't sure if that's enough to run a 15k AC unit.

As always thanks for the thoughts in advance!

Josh

[otrfun]

3 tons wrote:

otrfun wrote:
BTW, if you read any of my posts over the last few years (including the above three posts), I always make a point of referencing inrush current and LRA together (at least once) when discussing a/c compressors. I always do this to try and avoid any possible confusion. I assume you either missed it or you found it confusing?

I wasn’t confused, nor was I pointing out your ‘well put’ post, just trying to add a finer point of clarity for what’s often the uninitiated in the audience…

3 tons

Thanks for the clarification.

[3_tons]

Otrfun said; “BTW, if you read any of my posts over the last few years (including the above three posts), I always make a point of referencing inrush current and LRA together (at least once) when discussing a/c compressors. I always do this to try and avoid any possible confusion. I assume you either missed it or you found it confusing?”

I wasn’t confused, nor was I pointing out your ‘well put’ post, just trying to add a finer point of clarity for what’s often the uninitiated in the audience…

3 tons

[jodeb720]

The micro air is on my ‘upgrade’ list for this year. Unfortunately, I’m outta time for this trip. I also found that here in Denver, when a roof is hail damaged snd there are solar panels attached, the insurance company covers tge replacement of the panes as well as the roof material at the same time. They are selling the used panels for a song. I’ve seen 300 watt used panels less than 5 years old for 75 a panel. If you can use a volt meter snd don’t mind picking thru tge psnels there are deals to be had.

[jodeb720]

@old wizard - I was in a motorcycle shop here in Denver getting parts for my bike.
Side by side there was a 2200 and 3200.

On a park I picked up the 3200 and was impressed with the weight. I then picked up tge 2200. I had to lift both of tgem a couple of times to really feel the difference. It was within 5lbs

Recently I purchased a winch to left my hitch from the back of the truck to the ground and back.

I’m just figuring I can use it to lift the generator into the back of the truck.

https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Gambrel-Adjustable-Height-Mounted/dp/B0BTD5TVSW/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=Deer+winch+hitch&qid=1681510575&sr=8-6

[otrfun]

3 tons wrote:
I agree on the Micro-air, in my view a ‘must have’ and even with the micro-air, I upgraded from a Honda 2000 to a 2200 ($$), and due to elevation and/or higher ambient temps, and additional headroom - my point being, avoid scrimping on a generator because repurchasing is expensive!!

Also, in my case the pass-thru inverter would reject generator operation (and take over the load) as it saw ‘eco mode’ as a defective shore power condition…Adding another ATS as a work-around cured this nagging malady…BTW, to avoid any possible confusion, my air cond amperage spec’s refer to inrush as ‘LRA’ (Locked Rotor Amps) - just saying…

3 tons

We also use a Honda 2200. Great unit, but yes, $$$.

Yup, your load-sharing was simply doing its job. It sensed the voltage drop, but had no idea whether it was going to recover or not, so it took over the entire load. It only had 10-20ms to make a decision--lol!

A similar problem occurs with the PI EMS's---even if the protection features are turned off. If the voltage drops below 95-100, the entire PI EMS shuts-down (voltage too low to operate the circuitry), opening the relay, preventing the generator from starting the a/c.

BTW, if you read any of my posts over the last few years (including the above three posts), I always make a point of referencing inrush current and LRA together (at least once) when discussing a/c compressors. I always do this to try and avoid any possible confusion. I assume you either missed it or you found it confusing?

[theoldwizard1]

My issue with the EU3200 is size/weight !

Personally, I would buy a second EU2000 and parallel them.

[theoldwizard1]

otrfun wrote:
Is this *Supco* Soft Start you're referring to an aluminum-cased electrolyitc capacitor? If it is, they're only capable of reducing inrush current a few amps---very ineffective. A Micro Air Easy Start, a plastic box with circuitry inside, can reduce inrush current (LRA) as much as 25-40 amps. This is a massive, huge difference in capability.

I have to reinforce what otrfun said. Micro Air Easy Start IS the industry standard for a good reason ! It works !!

[3_tons]

I agree on the Micro-air, in my view a ‘must have’ and even with the micro-air, I upgraded from a Honda 2000 to a 2200 ($$), and due to elevation and/or higher ambient temps, and additional headroom - my point being, avoid scrimping on a generator because repurchasing is expensive!!

Also, in my case the pass-thru inverter would reject generator operation (and take over the load) as it saw ‘eco mode’ as a defective shore power condition…Adding another ATS as a work-around cured this nagging malady…BTW, to avoid any possible confusion, my air cond amperage spec’s refer to inrush as ‘LRA’ (Locked Rotor Amps) - just saying…

3 tons

[otrfun]

jodeb720 wrote:
@Otrfun, correct it only helps with current inrush unlike the Microair . . .

They *both* lower inrush current (LRA). However, the Micro Air is 10-20 times more effective at lowering the LRA than a Supco Soft Start Cap electrolytic capacitor.

[otrfun]

3 tons wrote:
I would plan on sizing a generator that’s able to run the air conditioner while in the ‘eco’ mode.

3 tons

All my continuous current recommendations assumed a Micro Air Easy Start was installed. LRA typically drops to 15-25a with one installed. With an LRA this low, starting in ECO mode is pretty much a given for the vast majority of 2000+ watt inverter generators. This assumes the generator is in good operating condition and it can support the a/c's continuous current reqt.

But, more to your point, sizing a generator that's able to run an a/c in ECO mode (without a Micro Air) can only be accomplished by trial and error. Not sure that's feasible unless you purchase a generator from a retailer with a liberal return policy like Costco. Although a/c manufacturers nearly always specify LRA (inrush current) ratings for their compressors, generator manufacturers rarely, if ever, advertise inrush current ratings. Even if two generators have the same continuous current ratings, their inrush current capability can be radically different.

[jodeb720]

@Wnjj - this has well over 500 hours of use. For the last 13 years I’ve been mostly boondocking for 5 weeks a year - call it 1500 hours conservatively. If I was in the desert it ran all day long, in national parks 3 hours a day to recharge my batteries.

@Otrfun, correct it only helps with current inrush unlike the Microair.
I don’t use my AC that much and in the past it’s always been used when I have full hookups - snd only on rare occasions on the generator.

@3 tons, when I’ve used the ac with my generator I’ve always turn ECO off, started the AC, and once I’ve set the temp on the thermostat to 65 switched eco on. That way the Honda would end where it needs to be at consistently. Of course if I was at altitude or it was above 90, it could (and did) overload after 20 mins.

[3_tons]

I would plan on sizing a generator that’s able to run the air conditioner while in the ‘eco’ mode.

3 tons

[Grit_dog]

What wnjj quoted from The Internet (however that worked, strange format) was what I was referring to.
OP, your genny should have this feature as well, 1 blink for every hundred hours.
Those little Hondas should go upwards of 2000 hours if well cared for.
Granted most of the ones I’ve had either get destroyed or are powering a tweakers tent or RV now. But the ones that escape theft or destruction even though rarely maintained I’ve seen over 10 blinks on some.
Point was maybe yours has a lot of life left and just needs a repair. And pairing up another 2k is less $ and more power and more easily portable/versatile than one 3k genny.

[otrfun]

jodeb720 wrote:
I have a supco soft start on the AC unit already - which is how, I can get the 2000 to get the AC going; However, if i'm altitude or it's really hot, after 20 minutes it overloads the 2000's surge capacity.

Hence i'm looking at a bigger unit . . .

Is this *Supco* Soft Start you're referring to an aluminum-cased electrolyitc capacitor? If it is, they're only capable of reducing inrush current a few amps---very ineffective. A Micro Air Easy Start, a plastic box with circuitry inside, can reduce inrush current (LRA) as much as 25-40 amps. This is a massive, huge difference in capability.

Soft starts aside, to give you a clearer picture of your power needs, I'd suggest looking up the continuous current rating for your a/c unit. Or, better yet, use an AC clamp-on ammeter to verify the continuous current while it's operating.

A BTU rating only gives a very general idea of an a/c unit's power needs. Some of the more efficient 15k BTU a/c units can draw less continuous current than some 13.5k BTU a/c's. If the continuous current rating/reading is less than 13a, and a MAES is used/installed, most 2000w inverter generators (in good running condition) should power it. If it's less than 15a, the newer 2200w Honda generator should power it.