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 > Your search for posts made by '10forty2' found 57 matches.

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RE: Dual A/C's, but only 1 duct line

Yep. And in fact, the "ducts" in my rig are actually plenum channels cut into the ceiling insulation and directed to the interior of the coach by the vent covers. Seems to work just fine for us.
10forty2 04/22/19 12:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Engine batteries not charging

Not sure about your coach, but my coach does NOT charge the chassis battery when on shore/generator power. I installed a Battery Tender on my chassis battery and plugged it into a house circuit to solve that problem.
10forty2 04/15/19 04:47am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Foggy Windows

There are several options for you to consider. First, there are kits that you can buy to break the seals, clean and reseal yourself. Or, there are glass places that will repair them...don't know about your area, but I suspect a Google search will turn up some vendors. Or, you can do like I did and figure out the window manufacturer and order replacement panes that you can install yourself.
10forty2 04/10/19 08:30am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Generator not starting

you don't need fuel to see if the 'starter' will engage and turn over the generator you only need the fuel line to 'Run' the generator and test 'everything' True, but having Murphy as a very close family member, I like to be sure EVERYTHING is working BEFORE I get it all buttoned up and have to unbutton it again.
10forty2 04/08/19 06:00am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Well George is home!

Congratulations! Nice looking rig!! And just in time for the 2019 Summer Camping Season!
10forty2 04/07/19 06:42am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Generator not starting

We had the same issue last year. Our generator (Onan 5.5) cranked and ran perfectly every time prior to when it didn't. We were packing up to leave after a nice few days at the lake. Hit the starter and....CLICK! Hit it again, and....CLICK! So, I figured the house batteries were too far down to turn over the starter on the generator and proceeded to make the ride home with just the dash air. Got home, replaced the batteries, hit the start button.....CLICK!! CLICK!! Nothing... After diagnosing all the voltages at the new batteries and at the generator connection, and checking/cleaning/retightening all cable connections from batteries to generator, and manually jumping the terminals on the solenoid to see if THAT was the problem....I ultimately had a bad starter and had to replace it. With all that said, check everything you can before you decide that it's the starter and then replace the starter motor. Not an easy task, but do-able in your driveway with an extra pair of hands and some patience. Actually removing the starter and replacing it is easy. Getting the generator out of the basement bin to get access to the starter ON THE BACK OF THE GENERATOR....well that's another job. If/when you decide to do the job, also know that the fuel line may be a tad too short to pull the generator all the way out to where you can get to the starter. I had to buy extra fuel line and add a coupler to lengthen it. You CAN just remove the fuel line from the fuel pump to give the extra room you need, but then you can't test the new starter until you reinstall the generator and THEN you'll have to pull the generator back out if something is wrong. So, here's a great source to get parts for your Onan generator: Onan Generator Parts And depending on which exact model of Onan generators you have, here's a parts manual: Onan BGM Parts Manual
10forty2 04/07/19 06:24am Class A Motorhomes
RE: dead house batteries

Another thought.....depending on the type of battery, they may be low on water/acid. But yeah, at 3.5VDC, they basically are toast now, so get some fresh ones and start again.
10forty2 04/04/19 06:04am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Motor homes over the years

Although I've only owned 1 motorhome in my life...the one we have currently, I do believe that a combination of things are happening. One, I feel that the rush to produce as many units as possible for the market has caused manufacturers to cut corners and ultimately, quality. Two, I believe that we have the ability to know about problems around the world that we previously did not as a result of internet forums and Google searches and reviews posted online by less than satisfied customers. I don't think that, given the shear number of units sold each year, there is a significant, industry-wide problem. But rather, we have consumers that are more than willing to complain about a squeaky door hinge online and make it sound like an indication of overall poor quality of build, instead of simply spraying some lube on it and calling it a day. And now, because of the internet, we ALL can hear about it!
10forty2 04/02/19 11:47am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Location of 2006 HR Fresh Water pump?

Mine was mounted on the back wall of the wet basement compartment. X2!
10forty2 03/31/19 06:15am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 1996 HR Endeavor LE slide-out height adjustment

On my 1999 HR Endeavor, my slide is on the driver's side and contains the kitchen. There are 4 rollers that support the underside of the slide. Two of the rollers are located in the basement bins (forward and rear of slide) covered by a black plastic box that's screwed to the ceiling of the bins. There are also 2 rollers inside the coach, in the lower kitchen cabinets beneath the sink on the floor (you might have to remove the drawers to see them. All of those rollers are adjustable and that was how I adjusted the height of mine when it got out of whack. I made several small adjustments and then observed/measured to see if I was close. It might take you up to several hours to make the correct adjustments, but I'd suggest taking your time and making only small adjustments each time.
10forty2 03/20/19 01:37pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Slide out Fuses

Just thinking out loud here... but is the parking brake set? I searched for an hour one time to find the problem why my levelers wouldn't deploy, and I found that I had forgotten to set the parking brake. You might also check that the ignition switch is completely in the off position. My slide won't go out with the key turned even slightly.
10forty2 03/15/19 03:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: ? Heat & Air on Ford Chassis?

It depends on your definition of comfort. As you can see from the few replies you have already, some will think the dash air is enough, and others...like me....need the house A/Cs or furnace running too.
10forty2 03/13/19 11:54am Class A Motorhomes
RE: electric brake booster

Sorry. I hear the hydroboost buzz when I put the key to the on position. Once I start the engine and while driving, I do not hear the buzz. Seems to be the way it works....our 1999 HR does it too! When the key is on, but engine not cranked...as in when deploying stabilizers...the annoying buzzing is there. When key is not turned, no buzz unless you press on the brake pedal. When cranked, it makes no noise at all. Had brakes system bled 3 years ago when I replaced the brake lines and calipers....buzzed before and after, so I gotta guess it's the way it's designed to work.
10forty2 03/11/19 09:51am Class A Motorhomes
RE: New Ford F53 Chassis

So they re-powered it...that's great! BUT....the primary complaints I have with mine, and have read about over and over again has never been about the engine....they are always about the handling, stiffness and harsh ride of the chassis. Wonder if they are making any improvements there?
10forty2 03/05/19 02:19pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Audio interference

Could be as simple as a bad/loose ground too.
10forty2 02/21/19 11:24am Class A Motorhomes
RE: New RV- need Roadside Assistance??

I have Roadside Assistance through Good Sam and thus far, after using it twice for blown tires, am VERY glad we had it. In both cases, we were a couple hundred miles away from home, (once on a Sunday), and had no idea where to start looking for a service center that would be able to handle a 36' Class A. Called Good Sam, and in a couple hours, we had a new tire on the way along with a service truck/tech that changed it for us. Yes, we had to pay for the tire(s), and no they were NOT discounted....infact, they were quite a bit above retail...argued the point later and was satisfied with the result. BUT, we were back on the road safely in a relatively short time, and for the most part were only slightly inconvenienced. I've renewed Good Sam RA each year since. We also have Roadside Assistance through our insurance carrier, but it only reimburses the cost and does NOT help to locate services in your time of need.
10forty2 02/19/19 12:40pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Towing weight limit

The WEIGHT/LOAD limit for the HITCH is what the HITCH is designed for and the Chassis mount/frame is designed for. You CANNOT just add a 10k hitch and think you are OK. Some Chassis/Frames you can install a 10k hitch but you must first find out from the Chassis maker if that is possible. If NOT, you can go to a certified welder and have him beef up the rear chassis/Frame to allow a 10k hitch to be installed. Doug This! Please don't overload your hitch....you not only risk frame damage to your rig, you more importantly risk hitch failure and consequently an accident involving much higher stakes than just damaging your own equipment! Plus, if your chassis isn't designed for the weight, it may not have adequate braking or suspension capacity either. It's easy to "PULL" a heavy load, but "STOPPING" it is a whole other thing. Engineers don't just stamp an arbitrary number on products for fun.....
10forty2 02/19/19 06:10am Class A Motorhomes
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