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 > Your search for posts made by '12thgenusa' found 6 matches.

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RE: Solar panel ratings

It happens quite often in Colorado. The cooler temperatures, higher elevations with less atmospheric diffusion and clear skies are big factors. My controller summarizes the day's output/input with one item being Peak Watts. It is not unusual to see a peak of over 400 watts on a system rated at 370 watts. I don't have the ability to see a graphical presentation of the day's production, so I have no idea of the duration or timing of the peak events, but they do occur. I usually tilt my panels to an "optimum" angle. The panels are now 12 years old. Two of the standard testing conditions for solar panels are sea level at 25C (77F). Both of these conditions are easily exceeded in Colorado. At 10,000 feet, you are above more than 25 percent of the atmosphere. 7800 feet elevation in Arizona will give you about the same result.
12thgenusa 06/01/22 10:24am Tech Issues
RE: Batteries and Inverter Installed

Unless you have a faulty charger or abnormally hot weather, I think you'll find that you'll only need to add water every three to six months. Mine stays on solar 365 days a year and I add water at the beginning of the season and just before it goes to storage for the winter. Check more often until you are confident of the interval.
12thgenusa 03/29/22 04:04pm Tech Issues
RE: Venting Batteries in 5er Basement?

I used a sealed storage box from an office supply store. The underside of the compartment was reinforced with angle iron and a hole cut for the PVC drain/air inlet. The vent tube goes to the original vent on the front of the compartment. The batteries are nested together, nearly touching. The hold-down is 1/2" HDPE with spacers at the center and ends. bolts are stainless all-thread, nuts and washers. The wire exit points are grommeted for a completely sealed compartment. All of the surrounding electronics have faired well since the installation 10 years ago. The batteries are also 10 years old and doing well.
12thgenusa 02/25/22 11:12am Tech Issues
RE: 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter recommendation needed

I have been using the Xantrex ProWatt 2000 for about ten years. Good, reliable unit. The fan will come on under heavy load such as microwave use. It's not very noisy, but mine is mounted in the front bay on a fifth wheel. Might be more noticeable in a TC. It has an available remote switch and is on the lower side price wise, $365 on Amazon. 1800 watts continuous with 3000 watts surge though I'm not sure of the duration of that. No-load current is less than .8 amp. Xantrex ProWatt 2000
12thgenusa 01/18/22 10:51am Tech Issues
RE: Why consider 12v fridge for boondocking?

Everyone’s situation is unique. Not everyone has space to install mega-solar panels. Not everyone has space or need for a mega-battery bank. If you already have those things, with a resultant surplus of energy, a compressor fridge might make sense. I have 370 watts of solar and four GC2s for a capacity of 440 Ah and an absorption refrigerator. I divide my power usage into two categories, much like a financial budget. There are essential items and there are discretionary or nonessential items. I consider lighting, hot water, refrigerator, water pump and furnace essential items. I also power two CPAPs that I consider essential. Discretionary items include entertainment system (a 2-hour movie costs 20 Ah with my system), microwave use, electric toaster, coffee maker, hair dryer and electronic device charging. Quite often we camp where overnight furnace use is required (or at least very nice) and of course CPAP use. Those three items set a threshold of about 50 Ah per night. Generally, our daily use is 80 to 120 Ah. In Colorado with its many sunny days and high altitude I can get away with lots of discretionary use and am still able to recover fully the next day. On the occasion of extended cloudy, rainy days I can limit my discretionary use and still rarely use a generator to supplement. Adding the daily load of 25 Ah or more to power a refrigerator raises the threshold of required power that would generally curtail use of discretionary items. If I could add more solar I would, but this would require ground, portable units which I am loath to do. If I go to places with fewer clear, sunny days, the 12-volt refer would push me over the edge where I would have to use a generator more frequently which dashes the whole idea of being solar power independent. A trip to Alaska several years ago is a case in point. At that time there was only one CPAP to power and there was little furnace use. There were many overcast, rainy days. Except for a few places where we made extended stays of a few days, most of the time we were moving every day or every other day, so there was a “decent” amount of TV charging. We had to run the generator probably eight times in the 80 days we were out. A 12-volt refer would have required much more gen usage. A lot of words to say this: If you have the capability to power all your essential items including 12-volt fridge and the reserve power to get you through the times when solar is minimal, go for it. For me, an absorption fridge just removes an unnecessary burden on the power system.
12thgenusa 01/15/22 02:13pm Travel Trailers
RE: Water Heater bypass valve.

There are 2 types of water heater bypass systems, the 3 valve - 1 each for in, out and bypass between the in and out. A fool proof design. The other is a 1 valve bypass to inlet that then switches flow to bypass and depends on a auto check valve at outlet to close to prevent inflow to the cold water heater tank. Failures are rare of manually operated valves, check valves do need a good slam of pressure to close. Build up your air or pump pressure to maximum before bleeding the water. When pumping the pink be certain all valves are in winterizing position ( CLOSED) Run the pump until it pressurizes the system to cut off, then go- slowly- to each tap nearest to farthest , 2 times around allowing the pump or compressor to rebuild pressure to each tap Edit, I think you pumped a/f too soon, without enough pressure to close the spring operated check valve. The check valve is spring loaded closed (closed is normal position) and does not require water pressure to close it. When there is no demand on the hot water system, water pressure is equal on both sides of the check valve and it remains closed. When a tap is opened, the pressure in the hot water side drops below the water heater tank pressure allowing it to overcome the check valve spring and allowing water to flow. They generally fail by gunking up with deposits and stick closed. However I am sure they can stick open the same way.
12thgenusa 10/16/21 09:52am Fifth-Wheels
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