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 > Your search for posts made by '12thgenusa' found 8 matches.

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RE: Water Heater bypass valve.

There are 2 types of water heater bypass systems, the 3 valve - 1 each for in, out and bypass between the in and out. A fool proof design. The other is a 1 valve bypass to inlet that then switches flow to bypass and depends on a auto check valve at outlet to close to prevent inflow to the cold water heater tank. Failures are rare of manually operated valves, check valves do need a good slam of pressure to close. Build up your air or pump pressure to maximum before bleeding the water. When pumping the pink be certain all valves are in winterizing position ( CLOSED) Run the pump until it pressurizes the system to cut off, then go- slowly- to each tap nearest to farthest , 2 times around allowing the pump or compressor to rebuild pressure to each tap Edit, I think you pumped a/f too soon, without enough pressure to close the spring operated check valve. The check valve is spring loaded closed (closed is normal position) and does not require water pressure to close it. When there is no demand on the hot water system, water pressure is equal on both sides of the check valve and it remains closed. When a tap is opened, the pressure in the hot water side drops below the water heater tank pressure allowing it to overcome the check valve spring and allowing water to flow. They generally fail by gunking up with deposits and stick closed. However I am sure they can stick open the same way.
12thgenusa 10/16/21 09:52am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Truly towable with 1/2 ton?

Don't tell my truck. 32K+ towing miles. In mountains. To Alaska. Would go again if I could find a way across Canada.
12thgenusa 03/13/21 10:30am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Inverter Install?

Many trailers have the non-GFCI outlets tied to the same breaker as the converter (mine was). Throwing the breaker to disable the converter also disables the outlets. If this is the case you will need to remove the outlet circuit wire from the converter breaker and add another breaker just for the outlets.
12thgenusa 02/20/21 07:54am Tech Issues
RE: Sticker and residue removal

Another vote for Rapid Remover. I just redid all the graphics on my trailer in 2019. Ten-year old graphics. Heat gun works to remove the graphics. Actually I found the heat gun too hot even on low, tended to make the graphics too soft and tear apart. I used a hair blower on low and it was just right. One quart of Rapid Remover removed the glue residue from the whole trailer with a little left over, some of which I just used to remove glue remaining from a seven-year old clear bra on a car I am getting ready to sell.
12thgenusa 02/13/21 11:37am General RVing Issues
RE: Solar installation

Kits are not usually the best value. Takes a little more effort but buying individual pieces that fit exactly what you need is a better way to go.
12thgenusa 02/12/21 11:15am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Wear Two Masks?

Here's the deal. A face shield is good if someone coughs or spits on you. If the virus is indeed an aerosol (air born) than a shield is worthless. Likewise for doubling up of masks. The harder it is for air to pass through the mask, the more likely it is to enter and exit around the edges making it less effective.
12thgenusa 01/23/21 09:23am Around the Campfire
RE: SeeLevel tank monitors

Great system. Mine's eight years old.
12thgenusa 01/18/21 09:51am General RVing Issues
RE: Oven ignitor

Here is a link to my post of 2010 where I installed a battery powered ignitor for the stovetop burners and added a sparker for the oven pilot light. Sorry the picture links are all broken due to the demise of TinyPic and I no longer have the pictures to relink them. It's still working great. I just open the oven door, hold the gas valve button in and press the ignitor button. You can see the reflection of the pilot flame in the bottom of the oven when it lights.
12thgenusa 11/19/20 05:55pm Tech Issues
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