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RE: Automatic Transfer Switch

Automatic Transfer Switch is installed. As usual the estimated cost of $200 was more like $300. Primarily due to the cost of shielded 10ga copper cable. I needed about 42 feet.The distance from the control panel to the ATS which is in the front pass through is about 13 feet. I had to run one 10ga cable from the control panel to the panel side of the ATS. A second cable from control panel to the Plug side of the ATS and a third cable from the Progressive Dynamics converter/charger (which is located below the control panel) to the Plug side of the ATS. A fourth cable from the Inverter to the Inverter or Generator side of the ATS. This distance was only about 2 feet. Since I no longer need the the 15 amp dedicated breaker in the service panel for the Converter/Charger I added a 15 amp AGC fuse inside the ATS to protect the Charger. How it works. When plugged into shore power everything works as it should. When I want to run on the Inverter generally I will already be unplugged from Shore power. But, if not the Inverter will have priority . The batteries will only charge when plugged into shore power. From inside the trailer I turn on the Inverter using the wired  remote on/off switch. There is a 35 second delay. You can hear the ATS "click" and then everything comes to life inside the trailer. I won't know till the next time I take it out on a sunny day when I have solar to see if turning on the refrigerator if I will be in the positive or negative. Regardless it will be nice to have shore power at the flick of a switch wherever I am. https://i.imgur.com/TgBg7as.jpg height=460 width=640
1L243 01/09/22 08:52pm Tech Issues
RE: Setting Amp Hours In Battery Monitor

Thanks for all the input. I will continue to set the monitor at 340 amp hours at 100%. The next time I go out I will pay better attention to percentage in relationship to amp hours. Last summer I seem to remember my percentage dropped mush faster than my amp hours. I do have four 85ah deep cycle lead acid 12 volts for my battery bank. I see that some quality used Lithium batteries are hitting the market with more than 90% capacity test. Who knows maybe next year!
1L243 01/08/22 09:45pm Tech Issues
Setting Amp Hours In Battery Monitor

I have a shunted battery monitor. It gives you alot of information. In setup one of the parameters is to input the amp hours of your battery bank. I have four deep cycle lead acid batteries with a total of 340 Amp hours. We know that lead acid batteries should not be taken below 50% or better yet 60% of charge. As I use the power from the battery bank the monitor will show bank level in percentage of charge and available amp hours left so, at 60% I know I'm getting to a area where I have to think of getting amps into the batteries or shutting things down, even though it shows I may have 240 available amp hours left on the monitor. Should I input the total 340 amp hours into the parameters settings of the monitor and just figure out as I have been doing or should I input the actual useable amp hours like 170 amp hours?
1L243 01/03/22 11:57pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery Bank Wire Size

Thanks for all the input After installing the new 2/0 cross over wires for my four 12 volt battery bank I performed a load test with batteries only using the the Microwave. AND I saw no improvement on voltage drop. I do however think that the upgrade from 2awg to 2/0 is a better fit for the 4/0 main 5' Inverter to battery cable. So far I have to say my 500 watt 2000 watt Inverter solar system has performed as I had hoped. I may add two more 100 watt panels in the future with a bigger charge controller. Plus I will be changing the batteries next year. I'm glad I up-sized the 10ga panel wires to 8ga when I did the install.
1L243 12/25/21 10:14pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery Bank Wire Size

I'm pretty sure I got the Inverter to Battery Bank covered a 5 foot run of 4/0 cable from the Inverter. I will get it finished up tomorrow and see if there is any change but I suspect your right about the Sag. I don't think Lithium batteries will be in my budget in the near future BUT I do plan to go with four 6 volt batteries next year which will get me to 440 amp hours.
1L243 12/18/21 09:59pm Tech Issues
Battery Bank Wire Size

I built my battery bank four 12 volt deep cycle batteries with 340 amp hours. At the time I had not added the 500 watts of solar and a 2000 watt inverter that I now have. At the time I used 2 AWG cable between the the batteries which are wired in Parallel. The 2 AWG was a upgrade from the 4 AWG battery cables that it came with. I'm using 4/0 cable from the inverter to the batteries. I occasionally have a high demand on the battery bank by running the microwave or a drip coffee maker. These events only last for 2 to 5 minutes at a time. When this occurs the battery voltage will drop suddenly as low as 11.8 volts due to the high demand. As soon as the demand is over the voltage recovers almost immediately to it's pre voltage level before the event. I decided to beef up the battery cables that link the four batteries together with 2/0 cable. I could not find anything that really set the parameters for battery cable size. I have not had a chance to try it yet but I am curious to see by increasing the battery cable size to 2/0 if the voltage drop during a high amperage discharge will improve. Any thoughts.
1L243 12/18/21 08:03pm Tech Issues
RE: Automatic Transfer Switch

All valid points. As far as cost of this Mod goes it's actually pretty cheap compared to some of the mods I have done about $200. If my current fridge draws too much power to run when towing with the solar I now have then so be it I will go back to Propane I simply want the option of energizing my outlets from the inside of the trailer with a flick of a switch. If my refrigerator failed I would consider a residential fridge although I do like to use of propane when boondocking so that would be a hard choice. At around $1400 that is an expensive option. As with a Victron inverter/charger running about the same price. A question regarding wiring. Most of my parts have come in and I am getting ready to wire. Not sure if the ATS will fit in the same cabinet behind the control panel. If it does it would be great as wiring would be shorter and easier. If not I will have to Put the ATS is a cabinet where the Park cable extension cord coils up. This would add about 15 extra feet to my wire run. From the ATS I will need to run wire to the Inverter about 20 feet. I will also have to run wire from the ATS to the Converter Charger as it has to be wired to the ATS a distance of about 15 feet. I'm planning on running 10 gauge wire. Should I use stranded 10 gauge wire (more expensive) OR a 10/3 Romex? The Wire will be routed out the floor and along the frame to their termination points. Either one will be inside flexible plastic conduit. Any thoughts?
1L243 12/13/21 08:22pm Tech Issues
RE: Automatic Transfer Switch

"On a sunny day my solar can produce as much as 26 amps and I think my refrigerator only about 8/10 amps. " My 6cu ft Norcold pulls about 350w on 120v so that is about 35 amps DC via inverter. I had lots of solar but it could not keep up with the fridge, even at high noon. Gave up on that and now leave the fridge on propane after trying that. You would only slow down the draw on the battery by running the fridge on inverter with whatever amps solar is doing at the time. A few more amps via 7-pin would help if only they were at the same voltage as the solar, but it would still not be enough to supply the fridge's inverter draw completely. I know the refrigerator uses alot of amps on startup not sure what my number is but much less once the refrigerator reaches cold. Then it depends on how much you access the fridge and maybe how hot it is outside. It could go hours before it cycles on and off while traveling. Down the road I may add a 40 amp DC to DC charger. Like I said I usually run the refrigerator on propane when towing if there is too much of a draw and it starts to drain down the batteries I will switch it back to propane. It will still be nice to have energized outlets when stopping for lunch or a break without having to go outside and plug into the Inverter.
1L243 12/05/21 01:30pm Tech Issues
RE: Automatic Transfer Switch

I don't have an onboard Generator. I will be transferring between shore power and the Inverter. I assume the output of your transfer switch will go into your 30A electrical panel, right? If so, that means when you switch over to your 2000W inverter, it will be powering ALL the circuits, including your AC & water heater. I hope you have a large battery bank. He doesn't have to turn the AC on. He can set water heater (and refrigerator) to propane. He has already said he will turn off the breaker to the converter/charger. What he is doing is imminently feasible. So OP will have to always remember to throw several switches or risk dead batteries. Plus, if the ATS is generator preferred and the inverter is connected to the generator side of the ATS, then OP will have to remember to also turn off the inverter when shore power is applied. Why not just use a manual transfer switch? Or, though more expensive, it sounds eminently more practical to buy an inverter/charger with a built-in transfer switch and wire it like so (with or without a sub panel), especially is OP's wife or friend(s) will also be responsible for switch throwing: https://rvseniormoments.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/ms2000_newmar_inverter_wiring_01_20_2013.jpg height=615 width=788 The only breaker I will have to throw when the ATS is in inverter mode is the AC. Since I don't use AC that often and never when on batteries I will just turn it off and leave it off till I need AC. My Converter will be wired to the panel side of the ATS so it will only charge when in shore power side and not to conflict with the Inverter side. A combination Converter/Inverter with built in ATS would be nice but they are very expensive. I
1L243 12/05/21 11:44am Tech Issues
RE: Automatic Transfer Switch

My bad I missed the small paragraph in the not so comprehensive instructions that said. "When the shore power is applied the relay is at rest and the power is to the panel. When the Generator (Or Inverter in my case) is applied there is a 20-45 second delay and then the relay activates transferring Generator power to the panel. If shore power returns while the Gen power is present nothing will happen. Then the Gen power is removed the relay will drop out and allow the shore power side to supply power. Generator overrides shore power" With this in mind and I am substituting the Inverter for the Generator The Inverter would have priority if both were connected at the same time. Although not covered in he installation instructions I have read that when using an Inverter with the ATS the Charge Controller will need to be disconnected from the 15 amp circuit breaker in the control panel and wired directly to the ATS using a 15 amp fuse on the Panel side to prevent a feed back loop. The charger will only work when shore power has priority. So, If I want the batteries to charge when connected to shore power the inverter must be turned off? Typically I would just plug the shore power into the Inverter once we reached our dry camping destination. The main reason I have decided to go with a ATS is that I want to run my refrigerator on AC when towing instead of Propane. I have towed while running the refrigerator on propane for years BUT I got the Inverter the batteries and the solar so why not run on AC? It will eliminate that, should you or should you not have refrigerator run on propane question when towing. Any thoughts? Ill go out and test mine, as what you want is how mine is set up, but I believe the shore power has the priority as there is no need for the inverter if you have shore power and when we are boondocking I only turn on my inverter when I am actualy using it. mine I can put the inverter switch in off/on/remote so I set it in remote and use the inside panel to turn it on or off, that way it is not consuming power when I don't need it. yes the converter is also into the transfer switch so it doesnt use battery power to try charge the batteries... I have solar also, but would never think of running the fridge on AC while travaling as it takes a larger amount of power and that is compounded with the inefficencies of the inverter. my solar would probably make it so I was still at 100% during the trip but my thought is the fridge, stove, BBQ and furnce lasts me weeks on propane why waist battery capability on that. plus I do a lot of camping in the off season so if I was using the inverter and I am travleing during a rainy day or two I may be showing up with a lower battery capacity when I need to run the furnace and such. so my use is I wake up hit the inverter button and turn on the coffee pot. whent he coffee is brewed I turn it off. same deal if we need the microwave for somthing, I guess I just use it so I can use some of the more convenient apliances while camping.. well some times I bring the Margaretavill camping also ;) On a sunny day my solar can produce as much as 26 amps and I think my refrigerator only about 8/10 amps. My batteries are usually at 100% by the time I get to where I am going. If is not sunny and I am using more than I am taking in I will not run the refrigerator on AC solar.
1L243 12/05/21 11:35am Tech Issues
RE: Automatic Transfer Switch

"It would be difficult to run a shore cable without having to go outside." If you can run 120 wire from the inverter to the ATS and from the ATS to the AC panel, why can't you instead just run 120 wire from the inverter to near the panel only with a receptacle on it instead of the ATS, and also since the shore power cord is on the AC panel, and you intend to run 120 wire from that panel to the ATS, then why can't you just plug the panel into that inverter receptacle, all inside the RV? How will you run 120 wire from the Main breaker to the ATS as well as having the shore power cord on the Main breaker? However you do that, it should be the same as running 120 wire over to the inverter receptacle for manual plug in? Sorry if I got the picture wrong, but it is interesting. Perhaps using an ATS for the inverter is something I could do too where my own set-up is kind of awkward. It sounds like it would work but don't you think the ATS would be simpler?
1L243 12/05/21 11:27am Tech Issues
RE: Automatic Transfer Switch

I don't have an onboard Generator. I will be transferring between shore power and the Inverter. I assume the output of your transfer switch will go into your 30A electrical panel, right? If so, that means when you switch over to your 2000W inverter, it will be powering ALL the circuits, including your AC & water heater. I hope you have a large battery bank. You assume right. my hot water heater is propane only. I will throw the breaker for the AC so it does not come on by accident.
1L243 12/05/21 11:00am Tech Issues
RE: Automatic Transfer Switch

I don't have an onboard Generator. I will be transferring between shore power and the Inverter. I will also disconnect the Converter/Charger from the 15 amp breaker on the panel to the panel side of the ATS. As far as the instructions go I will be substituting the Inverter for the Generator. It would be difficult to run a shore cable without having to go outside.
1L243 12/04/21 11:43pm Tech Issues
RE: Automatic Transfer Switch

My bad I missed the small paragraph in the not so comprehensive instructions that said. "When the shore power is applied the relay is at rest and the power is to the panel. When the Generator (Or Inverter in my case) is applied there is a 20-45 second delay and then the relay activates transferring Generator power to the panel. If shore power returns while the Gen power is present nothing will happen. Then the Gen power is removed the relay will drop out and allow the shore power side to supply power. Generator overrides shore power" With this in mind and I am substituting the Inverter for the Generator The Inverter would have priority if both were connected at the same time. Although not covered in he installation instructions I have read that when using an Inverter with the ATS the Charge Controller will need to be disconnected from the 15 amp circuit breaker in the control panel and wired directly to the ATS using a 15 amp fuse on the Panel side to prevent a feed back loop. The charger will only work when shore power has priority. So, If I want the batteries to charge when connected to shore power the inverter must be turned off? Typically I would just plug the shore power into the Inverter once we reached our dry camping destination. The main reason I have decided to go with a ATS is that I want to run my refrigerator on AC when towing instead of Propane. I have towed while running the refrigerator on propane for years BUT I got the Inverter the batteries and the solar so why not run on AC? It will eliminate that, should you or should you not have refrigerator run on propane question when towing. Any thoughts?
1L243 12/04/21 11:37am Tech Issues
Automatic Transfer Switch

Iv'e decided to add a Automatic Transfer Switch to my Toy Hauler I installed a solar system with a 2000 watt Renogy Inverter several months ago. I purchased a 30amp Progressive Dynamics ATS. I also recently added a Progressive Dynamics 4 way charge controller in place of the OEM charger. The ATS will switch between Shore Power and the Inverter. Question. If plugged into shore power and the inverter is on at the same time which will the ATS select as priority? Q
1L243 12/04/21 03:17am Tech Issues
Slide Support

Does anybody actually use a jack or support the slide when its out?
1L243 11/17/21 01:06am General RVing Issues
RE: Transfer Switch

My transfer switch I want to install will switch automatically between the inverter and shore power. I refer to it as part of my solar system since I installed it all together as a system.
1L243 11/14/21 10:40pm Tech Issues
Transfer Switch

This topic has been moved to another forum. You can read it here: 30296584
1L243 11/14/21 05:55pm Technology Corner
Transfer Switch

I've decided to add a simple auto transfer switch to my solar system. I was looking at Go Power which from a video I watched said made by Progressive Dynamics for Go Power $76. Progressive Dynamics makes a similar unit but is their brand for $100. Any recommendations or thoughts
1L243 11/14/21 05:55pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar Wiring Question

the Neg 4.0 wire goes from the Inverter to the Neg Buss then from the Neg Buss to the load side of the shunt. Then it goes from the battery side of the shunt to the Neg number four battery in the battery bank. The entire length is about 5 1/2 feet. The Chassis 2AWG ground goes from the trailer frame to the Neg battery Buss a distance of about four feet.
1L243 10/10/21 09:58am Tech Issues
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