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RE: Workhorse W24 Fuse Location
Issue resolved. Found the Winnebago print and there was no 12v charge line installed to the jack. I didn't search out the print because on a call to Winnebago, they told me the trailer jack was a Workhorse item and they didn't have anything to do with them. Shame on me for not double checking them. Thank you for your comments and help.
I was not happy when I found it was not installed on our 2007 ItascaW24! It makes no sense to me that Winne didn't make sure it was installed from the factory. It was a real pain to run the wire from the battery compartment back there and get it all working. Good luck to you-- Mick
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23hotrodr
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02/19/21 05:28am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Workhorse W24 Fuse Location
On our 2007 W24 Itasca (Winnebago), the charge line was never installed. If you look at the 7 pin trailer connector, the charge line should be the first one clockwise from the keyway. I bet if you look at the back of the connector you will find that there is no wire connected to that pin. You will either install this charge wire yourself or pay someone to do it. Good luck-- Mick
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23hotrodr
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02/18/21 05:02am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Jeep Cherokee tail light wiring
We have a 2020 Cherokee Trailhawk and did all the wiring and towing base plate install ourselves. Went with Roadmaster for all. Etrailer does have 2 different videos for the Cherokee, but each says different colors for the taillight wires. You must confirm them for yourself. For the base plate- you must remove the entire plastic front end skin. Not too bad, but it takes some extra hands to get the large thing aligned to all go back on.
The taillights are LEDs and you just open the hatch, remove 2 screws on each light and wiggle them out, then disconnect the connector. The harness covering is extremely tough and hard to cut. Be extra careful not to cut yourself or the very small wires used for the lights. I cannot remember the color codes for each side, but one of the Etrailer videos was correct. Just double check it for yourself with a tester. Running the wires up to the front is a bit of a challenge, but you can do it with patience. I did put the wiring in split plastic wire loom. If Hopkins now makes a dedicated harness that just plugs in, that would be the best choice. They did not have one earlier this year.
The Cherokee is easy to connect and set for towing, just make sure the park brake is off and check to make sure it rolls freely for a few feet before you take off. Good luck-- Mick
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23hotrodr
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12/10/20 05:14am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Reliable Walkie Talkie?
Last year I bought a couple of Retevis MURS walkie talkies from ebay. They have 5 channels, charger bases that plug into a usb port, and seem well built and simple to use. Range is very clear to about 1 mile. You can get them with other accessories like an earphone / microphone so you can leave the radio on your belt and use it. We have found them to be great for us for communicating between driver and spotter when parking or maneuvering the RV and between laundry facility, office runs, and other places in a campground. No lisence is required for these radios and work great in shorter distance communications.
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23hotrodr
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11/22/20 01:23pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: How to test rv converter?
Do not have to remove it. Just disconnect the output wires. Turn on the converter and measure the empty output lugs. Not rocket science.
I disconnected the 2 positive cables from the electric panel. I assume one of these cables goes to the battery, the other the converter.
One cable showed 12.6 (which is the current battery level), the other cable shows 0.00V
You have definitely confirmed your converter is not making 12 volts dc. You need to confirm that you have 120 volts ac feeding your converter as previously described in this thread. You cannot have 12 vdc out if you have no 120 vac into it. If you confirm 120 vac, you definitely have a problem with the converter. If you do not have 120 vac to the converter, you must resolve that problem.
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23hotrodr
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11/16/20 08:18am |
Tech Issues
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RE: LP hose needed
I think a better solution would be to replace the
connector on the motorhome (and of course also on the hose that connects to the 20lb cylinder) with a propane quick connect fitting.
You are probably correct.
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23hotrodr
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11/13/20 10:35am |
Tech Issues
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RE: LP hose needed
Have you verified that the connection will allow for propane to flow into this connection being it is an outlet?
No- Without the proper hose setup, I don't have a way to test it. Since it appears to be the same as the fitting on a disposeable bottle and those allow for reverse flow to refill, it should.
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23hotrodr
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11/13/20 08:39am |
Tech Issues
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RE: LP hose needed
OP: Yu asked for a male cannister fitting. Tom_M posted a female.
What are you trying to do, feed an appliance or refill the one pound disposable bottles?
I'm trying to get a hose to connect from a 20 lb bottle to my extend-a-stay connection via the disposeable canister connection instead of having to use wrenches on the inverted flare connection.
I guess I could use one of those adapters to refill 1 lb cans connected to the 20 lb and use a hose with female and male disposeable can connectors on opposite ends.
I may be confusing which of the disposeable connections are male and female. I thought the one on the 1 lb bottle is female since connection penetrates it.
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23hotrodr
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11/13/20 05:07am |
Tech Issues
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RE: LP hose needed
I think the OP is looking for the opposite of the previous links. Something like this from Amazon:
Propane Refill Adapter Hose
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61eLoZZAtOL._AC_SL1500_.jpg width=300
Yes, this one is real close. Correct ends but could use a couple feet longer. Thanks-- Mick
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23hotrodr
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11/12/20 12:28pm |
Tech Issues
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LP hose needed
I would like to get a LP hose that has a male disposeable canister fitting on one end (center prong with internal threaded nut) and either the internal left-hand thread or large external nut fitting that will screw onto 20 lb bottle and is 5' or 6' long. I can't seem to find this configuration in hoses. Anyone know if such a hose exists? Thanks-- Mick
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23hotrodr
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11/12/20 09:42am |
Tech Issues
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RE: GC2 battery brands
I am replacing 2 Walmart group 27DC batteries that I got 6 years out of. They are just now starting to use some water in a couple cells. I would love to replace with AGM batteries, but not sure I can justify the cost of the batteries and some recommend that I should also replace my PD 9260C with a Boondocker converter to use with AGM. I am strongly leaning toward just getting 2 GC2 batteries from Sam's or similar and hope I get at least 4 years from them. I must say that I am very pleased to have gotten 6 years from the Wally batteries.
Thanks for all the information. Happy travels-- Mick
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23hotrodr
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11/12/20 05:12am |
Tech Issues
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RE: HWH Service
Sounds like your pump is not starting when you try to operate the faulty slide. When you run the functioning slide all the way to the stop and keep the pump rumming by continuing to hold the switch, it keeps the system pressurized and then you operate the switch on the faulty slide to open the proper solenoid (s) to move the faulty slide. Must be a problem in the electrical circuit to start the pump with the faulty slide. I am 15 miles from HWH and they are great! Too bad they aren't as close to others for direct service. They do have nationwide service centers that should be able to help you find the exact cause.
Good luck-- Mick
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23hotrodr
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11/12/20 04:53am |
Class A Motorhomes
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GC2 battery brands
What brands of GC2 batteries have you had good luck with? How about from Sam's Club?
Thanks-- Mick
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23hotrodr
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11/10/20 06:46am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold n811r fridge
check the outlet that the fridge plugs into for 120 vac power.
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23hotrodr
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07/30/20 04:41am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: spark plug gap for Workhorse (GM) 8.1L ?
Thanks to all who answered! Very good info from you all. Thanks-- Mick
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23hotrodr
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07/04/20 06:49am |
Class A Motorhomes
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spark plug gap for Workhorse (GM) 8.1L ?
Anyone know what the spark plug gap is correct for 2007 Workhorse 8.1L ? Thanks-- Mick
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23hotrodr
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07/03/20 07:26am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 12-volt power for macerator pump
A 12 volt dc 20 amp power supply that would plug into household 120 volt ac would be a pretty expensive and heavy duty unit. The best way is to run fairly heavy duty wire (about 10 AWG) directly from your batteries to operate the pump.
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23hotrodr
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06/30/20 04:52am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Where is the Fuse/Breaker ?
I just recently ran a 12 gauge wire with inline circuit breaker mounted in the battery bay to the 7 pin connector on our 2007 Itasca Suncruiser. It took some creative and careful routing to get it there. Now, I need to figure out how to get the wire connected to the 7 pin connector. The wires all unplug from the back of the connector, but how to attach the new wire is not obvious. Weather has not been cooperating either. I will get it figured out some day when the weather gets better and I have the time. If anyone else has done this, I would greatly appreciate knowing the trick and exactly what is needed. -- Mick
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23hotrodr
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05/09/20 05:40am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Where is the Fuse/Breaker ?
There is most likely no wire run for that purpose. If you look at the 7 pin connector by opening the door- The pin just clockwise of the keyway is supposed to be the charge line. If you look at the back of the connector where the wires enter it, you will most likely find only a hole where the wire is supposed to go for that pin for the charge line.
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23hotrodr
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05/05/20 05:02am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: New Class A - Water Entry
Yes, the water can come from your holding tanks over flowing, if the basement bays are attached to the main body of the coach and do not move out with a slide room. You should be able to tell from the type of water you had to dry up. Do not let your holding tanks get too full. It does not take much over flow leakage to seem like a lot and make a mess. If you dry up the bays, and don't let your tanks get too full and you still have the issue, you need to talk to your dealer.
Good luck-- Mick
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23hotrodr
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04/25/20 06:42am |
Class A Motorhomes
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