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 > Your search for posts made by '2manytoyz' found 6 matches.

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RE: A spare wheel might be harder to source than you think!

@2manytoyz, most of the problem is it appears you don’t know what wheel it is and what fits. If a 16” doesn’t fit then it’s a 17” rim which is standard on all the dually trucks for the last 15 years or so. I promise whatever you have if it came off the Ford line is not rare. Start by figuring out what size the wheel is. I know EXACTLY what wheel it is. I posted a picture of the Ford P/N. It's a 16x6 wheel, but the other numbers in that long P/N indicate offset, etc. The issue is there are a few different Ford wheels this size, but they are NOT interchangeable. This is why I recommend people go LOOK at their wheels, read the P/N, and see if it is commonly available, or if they need to consider getting a spare. This wheel has a slightly different profile, that clears the oversized brake calipers on the new E-450 CUTAWAY chassis. This is not the same wheel used on the standard E-450 chassis. Not only do I know the exact wheel I need, I have one. Maybe the only one available at the moment.
2manytoyz 12/27/22 06:18pm General RVing Issues
RE: A spare wheel might be harder to source than you think!

Any competent tire service can dismount / remount a tire on the side of the road. All you need to carry is the tire itself, no rim. And if a blowout damages the rim? "I" can't remount a spare tire on the side of the road, but I sure can swap a mounted tire. I choose to have the option of getting myself back on the road. I don't share this information to convince anyone they should do the same! Some will find this information useful...
2manytoyz 12/27/22 06:08pm General RVing Issues
A spare wheel might be harder to source than you think!

Most new motorhomes don't come with a spare tire. My first Class A motorhome did, a 1999 Bounder, and it was tucked up under the chassis. The disadvantage to not carrying a spare is a flat tire can ruin a vacation. My last Class A, a 2015 Forest River Georgetown 3218TS, used a common size tire, but the wheel (8" wide) had been discontinued. Many RVs use a 7" wide wheel, which didn't fit. It took a week to special order a spare. We recently traded in our Class A, for a new 2023 Thor Quantum KW29 Class C. It's on a very common Ford E-450 chassis. However, it's a cutaway (RV) chassis, which uses larger brake calipers. Standard E-450 wheels DO NOT FIT as they hit the calipers. I contacted many companies, and searched the internet for 3 days. I finally found a used one of eBay. It was their last one. Spare tires are often easier to source as you can change brands. Wheels are another story. width=800 height=600 width=800 I have a Road Master spare tire carrier that mounts in the RVs hitch, and provides another hitch point. This was used on my previous Class A, and I transferred it to the new Class C. I highly recommend that you check the P/N on your wheel, and checking the availability, especially if you're not going to carry a spare. You might source one in a day, a week, or if you have a wheel like mine, someone just bought the only available one (ME!). Ford can eventually get you one, but those are over $1K, and with the difficulty getting parts, you might be stuck somewhere for far longer than you intended. For more information on the spare tire carrier, pics and details here:
2manytoyz 12/26/22 04:05pm General RVing Issues
RE: 12 volt fridges and boondocking? width=800 I've had several different types of RV fridges. My current one is the 10 cubic ft Norcold 12V compressor type. The downside to 12V compressor fridges is they consume more power per day than an absorption type fridge running on propane. The upside is they cool better, and much faster. The Norcold has a night mode, which draws less power. They expect the fridge to be used less in the middle of the night, so they run the compressor less. The temperature of the RV, and how often the fridge door is opened, will play a big part in how often the compressor runs. Looks like the 8 cu ft fridge draws ~5A/HR. Just a wild guess, a 50% duty cycle of 5A/HR, is 2.5A/HR x 24 hours = 60 Amps x 12V = 720 Watt Hours per day. 600W of solar, with a derating factor of 25% = 450W of actual production. During peak sunlight, you'll replenish all the energy used by your fridge in 1.6 hours. Short of measuring your actual usage, and actual collection, hard to give accurate numbers. If power consumption becomes a big deal, consider using a portable Engel refrigerator. It only has one moving part, and is incredibly efficient. I added an external thermostat to mine, details here:
2manytoyz 12/23/22 07:58pm Tech Issues
RE: Shore power question

I've been doing this since 2004, with multiple RVs. We are in FL, and I leave the A/C on, set to about 78F. This keeps the temps lower inside, and removes the humidity. Both will destroy the interior of an RV. Furthermore, most RVs come with a smart charger, with multiple stages of charging. Letting the charger do its job is the best thing you can do for your batteries. Sulfation occurs when a battery is deprived of a full charge, it builds up and remains on battery plates. And a trickle charger allows the battery fluid to stratify, also causing damage if used for long periods. Batteries either need mechanical movement (i.e. in a vehicle), or periodic fast (bulk) charging to mix the fluid. I have a solar setup at home, and I've learned a lot over the years on how to extend the life of my batteries.
2manytoyz 12/19/22 10:59am General RVing Issues
New Jeep Gladiator TOAD I recently modified my new 2023 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon so it can be towed behind our RV (which is changing soon). The wiring was more complex than the two previous Jeeps I wired as TOADS. Part of it was due to the CANbus system, and LED tail lights with lots of wires. The RoadMaster EvenBrake system needs a 12V input when the brakes are applied to determine the brake press was successful. The new vehicle no longer uses a basic switch on the brake pedal. It's now a potentiometer so the vehicle can determine how much pedal is being applied. Not a simple mechanical system. I purchased a brake controller harness, and plugged that into the hidden plug in the dash. I have the tow package, so the wiring was there already. The plug provided a +12V signal when the pedal was pressed, along with a constant +12V, and a ground. This was used for the wireless module. I ran a dedicated cable from the battery, to the braking system with the compressor inside. It tows flawlessly. Tracks well, with only one slight quirk. Once we arrive, and disconnect the Jeep, the factory TPMS in the Jeep becomes unavailable, and gives an error. Once the Jeep is driven over 15 MPH, each wheel sensor broadcasts, and the system starts registering the pressures. Within a minute or two, all is well. This vehicle has a push button start. The first step to waking up the computer, is to step on the brake. My theory is each time the pedal is pressed by the aux braking system, part of the Jeep's computer system is activated, but not all of it, causing a fault. Each tail light wire uses a diode, so it isn't backfeeding the wiring. It's not a big deal, and I've talked with another Gladiator owner, using a different wiring kit (Blue Ox vs. my RoadMaster), and noticed the same thing.
2manytoyz 12/01/22 06:15pm Dinghy Towing
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