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RE: INCREASING lpg capacity ?

X2 But he might be in California with it's high prices.That's exactly where I'm at.:C
4x4van 01/24/22 12:46pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: INCREASING lpg capacity ?

check the date as it could 12 years to go or less than a year..I used to assume I was getting a fairly new tank.. until I actually checked the date as a park I was staying at was real fussy about the tank's age. Some were over 10 years old.. and that included the entire rack.As long as they're not over 12 years, they're still OK/legal.:W you can simply exchange an old one for a relatively new one, already full (albeit a bit under-filled) for $20? They're $30 now.I've never seen them over $25. They're currently $20 at Walmart.:h
4x4van 01/24/22 11:12am Class A Motorhomes
RE: INCREASING lpg capacity ?

As KD4UPL said, if we are talking about the standard size BBQ cylinder, then simply exchange if yours is getting old in the tooth. Why pay $40+ dollars for a new empty cylinder and then pay to fill it, when you can simply exchange an old one for a relatively new one, already full (albeit a bit under-filled) for $20? Then simply refill as needed till it also gets old; and repeat. The only reason I can see to buy a new cylinder is if you want an "additional" one. And even then, you can "buy" a cylinder from the exchange places as well. Is it new? No, but it is new enough. They can't legally have them available for exchange if they have expired. Of course if you want/need a 30 or 40 pounder, then the exchange is a non-issue. And fixed "tanks" on an RV is a whole different conversion, as they do not require certification/replacement.
4x4van 01/20/22 11:34am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Sea Foam stabilizer

here's my reasoning. When these things are made, the installation of the fuel line goes from gas tank to generator, holes are drilled in top of fuel tank for the generator fuel line. Those drill fillings fall to the bottom of fuel tank. but newer units are plastic, and don't know if material of tank makes a difference. My tank is alum After years of being sitting at bottom of fuel tank they sort of get stuck. Add something to clean the system such as seafoam and they get unstuck and get sucked up in fuel line and make there way to the engine fuel filter and plug it up. Then the fuel filter goes into "bypass" mode and then plugs of the injectors. More specifically the little tiny screens that some injectors have (such as my 5.4 ford triton.) Injectors at the time $75 each or spend about 4 hours with a bright light and twizzers and magnifying glass picking out junk. Does not include time learning how coil over plugs work and getting to injectors removing and installing back in. There's so much wrong with this post, I don't even know where to begin. But suffice to say that fuel tanks are not "drilled" for the installation of generator fuel lines. If you had **** in your tank, it was not from the installation of the generator fuel line, and it didn't get "stirred up" by Seafoam. I also don't know of any fuel filter with a "bypass" mode.
4x4van 01/11/22 12:24pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Fuel consumption too high?

An 8,000lb 3500 SRW truck towing 16,000 lbs is safer than a 4,000lb truck towing 6400 lbs?Point taken :) , although I wouldn't want to be anywhere near either one in an emergency maneuver!
4x4van 01/05/22 04:33pm Travel Trailers
RE: Fuel consumption too high?

I have to laugh at the tow capacity wars that the manufacturers are currently waging with small/midsize trucks. Towing a 6400lb trailer with a small 4000lb truck at 75mph? While it may be able to TOW it, and it may be able to STOP it (with trailer brakes), in an emergency maneuver, the trailer will drive the truck. Hope I'm nowhere near the OP when that happens. Trailer brakes generally are required items once you go above 2,001 lbs in some states and 3,001 lbs in most all other States. So in reality, yes, a "4,000 lb" truck CAN safely not only tow but STOP. The trucks brakes handles the weight on the truck up to the rated GVWR and the trailers brakes handles the trailers weight up to the rated GVWR. So in reality, it CAN be safely done, might not be pretty or fun but still very possible to safely stop during emergency maneuvers. A lot of folks out there towing even greater of a mismatch, while that doesn't make me feel safe it is the reality we must deal with. Eventually with a big and heavy enough trailer even a F450-F550 truck will be much lighter than the trailer.. My personal feeling is I would much rather have a bit beefier tow vehicle to start with which provides a firmer platform (IE stiffer springs, firmer shocks and some added weight to match closer to the trailer's weight). But obviously not many people are willing to step off the 1/2 ton platform because they prefer the softer ride and a perceived lower cost to buy and a couple of MPG better mileage when empty.Agreed that with the correct trailer brakes, the tow vehice can stop the trailer, even in an emergency stop situation. I'm more interested in an emergency "maneuver", such as swerving to avoid another vehicle or something. In that scenario, the trailer brakes are of little value, and the mismatch in weight between the trailer and the truck becomes a major factor in control (or lack thereof)..
4x4van 01/05/22 12:26pm Travel Trailers
RE: Full Time RV living as a S Corp/1099 employee

Just keep in mind that, as a 1099, YOU will will likely be responsible for the payroll taxes that your employer normally would pay. Been there, done that.
4x4van 01/04/22 09:40am Beginning RVing
RE: 1994 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 30CB

Class A/C = included drivetrain. TT/5er = Tow vehicle drivetrain. The only "additional" vehicle to maintain when driving a motorhome vs a trailer is the Toad (if desired/needed).
4x4van 01/04/22 09:24am Class A Motorhomes
RE: First front tire blow out....

We had a right front blowout several years ago in our previous coach, a 41' DP, on a very busy interstate south of Chicago.  We were cruising at 60, with the cruise control on, well within the tire's weight limit, it was properly inflated and had not aged out.  We had just crossed a small bridge, and the emergency services driver thought we had run over something that caused the catastrophic failure.  When the tire failed there was a loud boom and the steering wheel started vibrating rapidly back and forth with a slight pull to the right.  I immediately tapped off the cruise control, did not brake, and, as we slowed, gradually moved to the shoulder.  The biggest problem we had was that the shoulder was very narrow, with a 45 degree angle drop off.  My Velvac mirrors had three lenses, the bottom was oriented on each respective front wheel, so I could see exactly how far I needed to get off the hard stand before I started down the embankment.  Even getting as far as I could into the grass left us dangerously close the highway.  Every 18 wheeler that went by, shook the entire coach.  The emergency services driver managed to get the remnants of the old tire off, and the new tire on, without removing the rim. As I look back on this experience, several people have mentioned the Michelin video, where they preach immediately adding full throttle/thrust.  The last thing I wanted (or needed) was more speed or thrust, it would have caused more damage and exacerbated the problem.  At no time was I in danger of loosing control of the coach or was the vibration or pull to the right severe.  Attempting to accelerate or increase thrust never entered my mind.  The only thoughts going through my mind were drive/control the bus, slow down and get off the road.....as I inched my way off the interstate.  And that's what I did. Here are some extra comments regarding the Michelin video.  It sounds good and looks good, however, all the scenarios are scripted with safety the primary consideration.  It's like a lot of "school solutions," every aspect of the demonstration is planned.  However, based on my experience, regardless of the physics, when doing it for real, I doubt it's merit, it just doesn't make sense. I agree. The Michelin video is scripted and produced using a driver that knows a blowout is coming. None of us are in that scenario; no one. I have had at least 3-4 blowouts since I started RVing 35 years ago. One was even a right front tire while starting down a downhill offramp, still traveling at 60-65 mph. Never stomped on the throttle nor the brakes. Yes, it pulled to the right, but never to the point of losing control. The key was to maintain steering while "gently" slowing the rig. Stomping on the gas simply delays the entire process of getting your rig stopped. Sorry; I've watched the video multiple times. I've actually experienced RV blowouts. And I've argued the points on this and other forums several times over the years since that video was posted. Didn't agree with it then, don't agree with it now. But hey, it's on the internet, so it must be true, right?:R Do what you want, but IMO, the only valuable takeaway from the video is to NOT stomp on the brakes.
4x4van 01/04/22 07:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: solar powered camper up to 450 mile range

And of course, once you drive 450 miles, you have no battery power left for your camping needs till a day or 2 of charging later. In reality, they built an electric vehicle with an expanding solar panel roof, that just so happens to have some camping gear in the back.
4x4van 12/29/21 11:33am Tech Issues
RE: Fuel consumption too high?

I have to laugh at the tow capacity wars that the manufacturers are currently waging with small/midsize trucks. Towing a 6400lb trailer with a small 4000lb truck at 75mph? While it may be able to TOW it, and it may be able to STOP it (with trailer brakes), in an emergency maneuver, the trailer will drive the truck. Hope I'm nowhere near the OP when that happens.
4x4van 12/29/21 10:38am Travel Trailers
RE: I Winterized ............. but then this happened.

In a toilet, the water in the bowl works just like the water in a trap under the sink; prevents gasses from entering the living area. If the seal will not hold water up, how does it hold stink down? While the toilet in my current RV holds water, my last 2 (both class C, bought used), didn't hold water in the bowl for more than 5 minutes, max. But we never had an issue with stink in the 22 years (combined) that we used them. Maybe because the black tank vent was much larger than the tiny leak through the toilet blade?
4x4van 12/29/21 10:25am Travel Trailers
RE: Appropriate Tire Pressure?

Whatever the Chassis manufacturer (Ford? Chevy?) sticker in the door jamb says, is THE MAX. That is almost certainly less than the 80 PSI on the sidewall of a Load Range E tire. I respectfully disagree. The tire sidewall is the max always. The door sticker is the manufacturer's recommendation for ride, safety, handling and comfort with the expectation the user stays within the weight ratings. I prefer mine a bit firm so I would be running 5 to 10 psi over the door sticker not to exceed the tire sidewall max. Tire manufacturers have no idea what vehicle their tires are going to be installed on; none. The number on the tire is for the TIRE's max load, and will most times be significantly higher than a particular RV will ever require. That's why load charts exist. The RV manufacturer on the other hand knows exactly what the maximum GVWR on their vehicle is, and lists (on the doorjamb) the pressure required for that weight. Since the rig should never be loaded above that, any increase in pressure is not necessary, and will not improve ride, safety, handling, etc. Depending on the actual weight of the rig, the door tag numbers may be higher than necessary, but never lower.
4x4van 12/29/21 10:10am Class C Motorhomes
RE: You're kidding...Right?

Weigh fully loaded, with full fuel, LPG, fresh water (empty black/grey). As others have said, 4-corner weighing is the best (although both ends of the axle should be set at the same pressure; use the higher of the 2). If you can't do 4 corners, then weigh each axle, and use 55% of that number (to account for variation in side-to-side weight; mine is actually about 54%/46% biased to the driver side). Find the tire manufacturer load chart and use it based on your actual weights. Some suggest to add 5-10%, but IMO that would really depend on where your weights fall in the chart; if your weight is close to the top of one of the sections, then bump up. If it is just barely into that section, then stay where the chart says since you already have some buffer. Hope that's clear. If you haven't weighed your rig, then you can use the tag on the driver's side interior wall or door. That will give the pressures required for YOUR rig at YOUR max GVWR. Never use the number on the tire sidewall, as tires can be used on many different vehicles of different weights.
4x4van 12/29/21 09:41am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Black water tank overflow

I have another question for the OP; All my life I have been told water seeks it's own level. And I have never seen a bathroom where the top of toilet is higher than bottom of sink. Even if a pipe tied the 2 together how could water flow into sink from toilet?If the toilet seal is good (and you don't try to flush) then it could indeed back up into the sink. If that's the case, though, I would highly suggest DO NOT TRY TO FLUSH THE TOILET!!!!
4x4van 12/08/21 03:28pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: RVs over 10 years old are valueless

RVs over 10 years old are valuelessWow, and to think my RV was 12 years old when I bought it! I guess they saw me coming, since it was basically "valueless"!
4x4van 12/02/21 01:36pm General RVing Issues
RE: Question about tires..smell? Temp?

2 quick thoughts; based on your weight ticket, you have only 660 lbs available on the rear axle; if you added the bike after that ticket, then your axle IS overloaded. Also, is that 80-82 psi that you referred to the cold pressure (before driving), or is that the pressure after driving and when the tires were hot?
4x4van 10/05/21 02:10pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Regular Microwaves vs RV Microwaves

My kitchen microwave does not have convection like the one in the MH. Is/could that be the difference in prices?Combo microwave/convection ovens are certainly more expensive than microwave (only) ovens. But I do think that part of the cost difference is that they are marketed "for" RVs.
4x4van 08/25/21 04:49pm Beginning RVing
RE: 30 amp plug assistance needed

This plus this will work.
4x4van 08/24/21 04:53pm Tech Issues
Umbilical cord markers/reminders

I've been RVing for about 35 years now, and like most of us, I have a routine for packing up. Usually it works well, but as most of you can relate to, if something happens that disrupts that routine, things can get overlooked. Last year, I was nearly done packing up when my son-in-law asked me to help him with his WDH. That's all it took to disrupt me, and I hopped in my RV (after helping him) and pulled out...still plugged in to the power pedestal. But I've come up with a great backup that has been working well for me. I purchased a package of "Slap Bracelets" on Amazon for about $7. I then used a P-Touch label machine to label them; Water, Sewer, Elec, TV Ant. These are stored on their respective units (i.e. the ELEC is attached to the cord end, the WATER attached to the city water inlet, etc). When I hook anything up, I take that slap bracelet and put it on my wrist. Once fully set up, I take them all off my wrist and put them on my steering wheel. Now, when packing up, I move all of the bracelets from the steering wheel to my wrist, and then put each of them back on their respective units as I disconnect each. If any are still left on the steering wheel or wrist when I get ready to leave...I know that I am still attached to something. Just thought I'd share.
4x4van 08/24/21 04:35pm General RVing Issues
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