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RE: New LP/CO detector needed

There is varying recommendations on WHERE to place a CO detector. A quick Google search will turn up answers ranging from 5"-20" above the floor, to 5' above the floor, to the claim that since CO mixes with the air equally, anywhere (including on the ceiling) will work. My Itasca does indeed have it on the ceiling in the bedroom; I know for a fact that it works, as it went off several times last year at Nascar when the RV next to me was running his generator without a Genturi.
4x4van 10/08/19 09:35am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2 Years with a Older Class A

Wow, I feel lucky. In 2016, I bought a 2004 Itasca class A. Dealer had replaced tires, batteries, generator carb, awning, slide toppers. In 3 years, I've done: Rear camera replacement: $250 Oil/filter changes: $130 Air Filter: $15 Transmission fluid/filter change: $150 Heater control valve & heater hose: $18 Roof repair (the infamous Winnebago edge issue): $120 New DVD player: $65 Total: $748 Not bad for 3 years; $250/yr maintenance/repair. Of course, doing all repair/maintenance myself certainly saves cash, and we don't put alot of miles on it (only about 2500 miles per year). And yes, everything works and everything is clean. I have made a few additions, but don't consider those part of the "cost of ownership" since they are 100% optional/upgrades: Electrical monitors (120VAC, 12vdc house, 12vdc chassis) USB ports Trans temp gauge Flag Pole/mount LED lighting throughout LED Light Bar in grille Outside campsink/hookup LPG hookup (for BBQ) Interior/Exterior thermometer Future upgrades planned: New TVs (already in the works) Solar 2nd roof A/C Suspension (TracBar, Sumo Springs, shocks)
4x4van 10/08/19 08:30am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Camp Kitchen with Sink that connects to outside shower?

Geez, the grey-water police sure showed up quick! The OP never said anything about running food scraps or grey water onto the ground. I use this, hooked up to my low point drain (cold water only). I simply extended the low point drain to a convenient location and added a garden hose quick-connect. The outdoor sink sits next to my Blackstone Tailgater grille/griddle, and is so handy that some friends just purchased one too. The drain goes into a collapsible bucket.
4x4van 09/24/19 04:54pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Good news... dreaming of BEV Class A

For an RV cruising at 70mph, it may have drastically less range. You'll get a ton of traffic tickets in the West Coast for this where speed limit is 55 mph. And high fees for these violations.No one, including Semi's and RVs, drive 55 on the West coast.:R
4x4van 09/24/19 04:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Diminshed Value Claims

I think what many of you are overlooking is the fact that very seldom (if ever) are vehicles with major and/or structural damage actually repaired. Those are totaled, simply due to the high cost of repairing, and end up with salvage titles. "Repairable" vehicles are very unlikely to have major damage that will compromise the safety of it's occupants. So again, how does a vehicle with minor damage that is repaired properly sustain "diminished value"? It doesn't. At least it didn't, until "sheep" started drinking the koolaid and were convinced that they were "owed" something more than what traditionally was accepted. Not a whole lot different from outrageous court settlements for "pan & suffering" or "emotional distress" that are commonplace today. JALLEN4 explained the whole "Carfax" scam extremely well. Just a couple years ago, I purchased a 2008 Hummer H3 Alpha with a very clean Carfax. No accidents, no major repairs. I have since found evidence of significant right front end damage. Repaired correctly, it still runs/drives perfectly. "Diminished value"? I think not. Yes, I would have still purchased, for the same price, had I noticed it at that time.
4x4van 09/24/19 04:16pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Terrible Trucks

"Work like you're going to live forever, but play like you're going to die tomorrow." -my Dad (who is still alive at 87) "Try everything in life twice" -my Mom (who died in a motorcycle accident at 46). I'm pretty sure that how anyone spends their money is no business of mine, nor is how I spend my money any of theirs.
4x4van 09/18/19 04:46pm Beginning RVing
RE: Towing

The OP also never clarified where his stated "tow limit of 3500 lbs" came from? Is that simply the difference between his GVWR and GCWR? If so, he could easily tow more if his MH weighs in at less that the full GVWR, as long as his hitch setup is up to the task, particularly 4-down.
4x4van 09/18/19 04:23pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Diminshed Value Claims

The whole idea of "diminished value" payout is, IMO, nothing more than trying to get more money than is legitimately owed. Accidents shouldn't result in a windfall, only in being made "whole". Yes, I know, many of you are arguing that the vehicle, even if fixed, is now worth less, so they are no longer "whole". To that I would simply say: who decides how much less than "whole"? It is so subjective as to be almost a ****-shoot shot in the dark, nothing more. Perhaps for a nearly new vehicle, DV could come into play, but as the vehicle gets older, there are much more important issues that determine value. So should the person who receives a DV payout be required to return a portion of that payout each year until the age/condition of the vehicle become the deciding factor and the "loss" is no longer significant/relevant? Maybe I'm from a different generation/mindset, but DV just smells like a scam for more money. YMMV.
4x4van 09/18/19 03:56pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 8.1 Engine Running Hot

I believe the problem here is the water pump. Wrong one is installed. There are at least two--one designed with fins designed to run clockwise the other to run counterclockwise. if the wrong one is there the water will still circulate but not efficiently. Then---if the heated water in the block can't get into radiator quickly enough,the fan clutch doesn't feel the needed heat/temperature and does not engage. If i remember correctly this all started with a water pump replacement. My thoughts.This is not the first time I have heard of that "clockwise vs counter-clockwise" issue on this engine. Question is, are there 2 different part numbers? How do you tell which is which? How do you tell which you need (clockwise looking forward? or?).
4x4van 09/12/19 03:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ford 460 motorhome running hot

A couple of things here. I don't think that 210 is too concerning for a 1988 460 in an RV, climbing hills. It's an old technology motor, a heavy rig, and class C doghouses tend to hold the heat in. My last RV was a 26' Jamboree class C, 1988 with the 460 as well. I didn't have a "numerical" gauge, but I would regularly run at least 3/4+ on the gauge while running in the heat under load. Also, I wouldn't go too crazy with heat wrapping things; it can do more harm than good by holding the heat in rather than allowing it to dissipate. BTW, you did alot of work on rebuilding this engine, but didn't replace the water pump, thermostat, or fan clutch? For the cost, and the ease with the engine out, the water pump would have been a cheap/easy bit of insurance at that time. Now, it's alot more work to change that unit out. Yup, been there, done that; the water pump on that beast covers pretty much the entire front of the motor! Also, although it's a different rig and drivetrain, on my '04 class A Workhorse 8.1, the fan clutch doesn't even kick in till about 208-210, and then drops back out when the temps go down to 204. So again, I'm not sure that 210 under a load is time to panic.
4x4van 09/05/19 02:11pm Tech Issues
RE: 8.1 Engine Running Hot

Keep us in the loop, hope you find the problem soon.Agreed, keep us in the loop. I pull a 4,000lb trailer to Glamis and back, over Whitewater Grade and have not any any overheating issues, so I am definitely interested in hearing what is causing yours. Here's what I have listed for the OEM parts; Workhorse part numbers: Cooling Fan: W0007657 (includes Fan Clutch) Fan Clutch (only): W0000193 Thermostat: W8800783
4x4van 09/05/19 12:12pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 8.1 Engine Running Hot

Keep in mind that the temp gauge on the Workhorse is not linear. In fact, it does not move AT ALL from 188-224, but instead stays at the 1/2 way point on the gauge. It rises from 105 to 188, then STAYS AT 1/2 ALL THE WAY TO 224. Then (and only then) the needle starts to rise again. So if you noticed the gauge actually rising above the halfway point, that means that your engine temp was already exceeding 225. If it got to the beginning of the amber area, it was at 260+ degrees! My fan clutch kicks in (at any speed) when my temp reaches about 208, and will immediately drop the temps to about 204, where the clutch drops back out. I run over Chiraco Grade in SoCal in 100 degree heat pulling 3 PWC and never have seen the gauge go over 1/2.
4x4van 09/03/19 04:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refill fresh water from when no gravity fill exists

I always get a chuckle when I see these posts; and the extents that some will go to to put water into their tank. If your RV has a winterizing valve, then you already have everything you need. Simply turn your City/Fill valve to "Fill", and turn your winterizing valve to "Winterize". Drop the winterizing line into a bucket of water and turn on your water pump. Your onboard pump will draw the water into the lines and then push it into the freshwater tank. Refill bucket as needed. If your RV doesn't have a winterizing valve, you can add one for less than $15 here.
4x4van 09/03/19 04:23pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: dedicated charging station for phones, wifi, tablets

I installed 3 of those dual USB ports in my RV; one on each side of the bed, and one in the dash. Easy install, and no need for 120VAC (shore, genset, or inverter). Makes no sense to me to convert 12vdc into 120VAC and then back down to 5vdc. That's like melting ice cubes to provide water for filling ice trays!:S
4x4van 08/22/19 02:12pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: RV lifestyle...

I pull in, level and deploy slides from the driver seat. Extend awning and unroll mat (yes, a big 8'x20' so I can make sure to kill the grass:B), and put my cooler outside on that mat. I'll plug in to electric, but use the freshwater tank and don't dump til I'm ready to head home. At that point (only about 15-20 minutes) I'm reaching for a cold one. Chairs come out only as needed, and the BBQ grille and sink table if it's getting close to dinner time. DW does put out the Flamingo, and I'll eventually get around to the flagpole. Now if you really want entertainment, go somewhere with a boat launch ramp and set your chair in view of it!:C
4x4van 08/21/19 04:35pm RV Lifestyle
RE: Getting ADCO Windshield Cover Into Storage Bag?

On my last RV ('88 Jamboree), I had both an inside cover and an outside cover. For camping, we used the inside cover; vinyl, that snapped in place to block the windshield and both side cab windows. It was easy, no matter the weather, and we could pull up the bottom and take a peek outside if needed. At home while stored, we used the exterior cover over the windshield and both side cab windows. That kept the windshield/windows clean and ready to go for the next trip.
4x4van 08/21/19 04:09pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Using an automotive battery charger when onboard fails

My cheap HF charger (2/10/50 Amp) tapers down the charge amperage as the battery SOC increases. I've never used it in an RV for an emergency power supply, but wouldn't be worried about it overcharging. Not sure why I would need a "timer", as it automatically ramps down to just a trickle charge. This statement reveals an incomplete understanding of how batteries charge or how battery chargers work. The charger has a maximum allowed voltage. As the battery nears full charge it requires less and less amperage to maintain that maximum voltage. This is called constant voltage stage or absorption, whereas the time before battery voltage has reached that plateau is called bulk, and is a constant current stage. Float stage applies just enough amperage to maintain a lesser voltage that will not overcharge the battery. Most garage 'smart' chargers in float stage will have a hissy fit if the current required to hold float voltage, or absorption voltage varies, and it will vary if someone is inside turning DC items on and off. So yes, the charger ramps down the current, but not because it senses the battery is nearing full, it simply is ramping down as it it trying to prevent the voltage from going higher than the maximum allowed. If the current were constant, not allowed to taper, then battery voltage would keep rising, and 12 amps constant on an otherwise healthy group 31 flooded battery can likely push voltage up into the 17's in just a few hours after current would have started tapering had voltage been capped at 14.7v. All the while the battery fizzes up a storm, smells of sulfur burps and spews electrolyte, and begins heating up rapidly in thermal runaway. Those Giuant wheeled chargers at auto repair joints from 20 years ago can easily accomplish this if they are left on for too long. As to when a charger shuts off, well this amount of time it holds absorption voltage, is a guess, as every battery will be different and change as they age, so the time in which to hold absorption voltage is a big guess, with a large lean toward safe, which means undercharging as overcharging can be dangerous. The battery that has a chance to actually achieve full charge, but is not allowed the time to do so by a 'safe' charging source, is like getting kicked in the balls right before climax. The chargers which insist that amperage taper to such and such a level before dropping to float, when used as a power supply in an RV powering loads, might possibly keep the battery at 14.7ish volts long after it is fully charged, so NOT worrying about it overcharging in such a task, could be unwise. How much effect it will have on the battery if this is to occur, is highly variable, if the battery is sulfated then the prolonged time at 14.7ish volts could be beneficial. If it is healthy and then held at 14.7 for many many hours afterwards it is being overcharged, using water, and shedding positive plate material. Anybody using a regular car charger as a power supply would be quite foolish to not monitor battery terminal voltage initially and then later on, and every so often thereafter. That is if the charger remains on and does not shut off thinking something is wrong. Never assume it will be 'just fine', unless you have experience with that specific charger in the same specific usage on a battery at and battery capacity at nearly the same state of health. 'Just fine' could be uttered a few seconds before something is just about to fail, without any tools or data or previous experience doing the same thing with similar variables to make such a declaration. I equate proclamations of 'just fine', in most cases, to be words uttered by the deliberately and proudly ignorant. Interesting. So you're saying that even though the amperage tapers down on the charger, the voltage stays high, and could push the actual battery voltage way above safe levels if left on too long? I have in fact left my charger hooked up overnight AFTER the meter has tapered down to zero and the green "battery charged" LED comes on, but I've never actually checked the voltage that the charger is putting out, neither when first hooked up nor after it has tapered down; guess that's something to put on my "to do" list next time I need to use the charger.:C
4x4van 08/21/19 11:21am Tech Issues
RE: Sundance 241BH - Black water tank fell out

I will be there this week or early next... I will see what they have to say... Thanks.. ??? I've never heard of a floating check valve in a black (or grey) tank vent. I can see no reason for a manufacturer to install one; The only way to "overfill" the black tank is with the rinser, and in that case, it would be better to have the overflow go out onto the roof rather than overpressurizing and dropping (like yours did) or even splitting the black tank open, or flowing out through the toilet (or bathroom sink if plumbed that way). Sounds like a made-up excuse by the dealer. :S Have that dealer show you that floating check valve. In 40 years working on RV's and dropping countless tanks, I have NEVER seen anything inside a tank or connected to a Vent system in or around the tank. Every week, I think I cannot find something new that a Dealer/Tech/ customer posts that is BS. Well, this makes my week:B Doug If he says that he can't show it to you since it's hidden from view, ask to see one in an RV parts catalog. :E Additionally, the dealer SHOULD reimburse you for whatever you spent adding angle iron/straps to actually support the tank; which is something that should have been done by the factory.
4x4van 08/21/19 10:59am Tech Issues
RE: Sundance 241BH - Black water tank fell out

??? I've never heard of a floating check valve in a black (or grey) tank vent. I can see no reason for a manufacturer to install one; The only way to "overfill" the black tank is with the rinser, and in that case, it would be better to have the overflow go out onto the roof rather than overpressurizing and dropping (like yours did) or even splitting the black tank open, or flowing out through the toilet (or bathroom sink if plumbed that way). Sounds like a made-up excuse by the dealer. :S
4x4van 08/20/19 04:26pm Tech Issues
RE: Laws/Regulations for RV Fresh & Waste Water Service

4x4van -What is so terrible about the pipes being in view? Do you want me to put pants and underwear on my TT o that you can't see its private parts. Do you get disturbed when you drive past a field and see a cow taking a **** without using an outhouse? I think we have more important things to get upset about. I was actually being facetious, since the OP seemed so aghast at the sewer outlet and the city water inlet being located near each other. But yes, if you could put at least underpants on your trailer, I'd appreciate it.:W
4x4van 08/20/19 04:18pm General RVing Issues
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