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RE: Travelling from Nevada to Alaska in the Middle of Winter

With no response from the OP for over a week, my conclusion is they are under mandatory quarantine measures, and then having to conduct in-processing protocols after that which also takes a lot to get settled in.
AKsilvereagle 02/27/21 04:49pm RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: Travelling from Nevada to Alaska in the Middle of Winter

I did not see any mishap or accident reports on the Whitehorse Star, Yukon News, or Alaska State Trooper Daily Dispatch - I am thinking they had made it to their destination at JBER as well, if not then they got stranded somewhere.... Just hoping the driver didn't try to push it too hard west of Whitehorse with all the frost heaves and high winds as of recent that I seen on the super weather map pattern in the Haines Junction and Kluane Lake area. Haines Junction thru (the Tok Cutoff route which was pointed out) during the winter is not a stretch to try to make time on, especially towing something significant behind you....it is bad enough during the summer between Destruction Bay and Northway Junction. It has been a pretty cold February here in the Alaska Interior this month.
AKsilvereagle 02/21/21 05:46pm RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: Exxon lost $20.1Billion - the beginning of the end for oil?

Oil Companies do not lose out in the long term as they make revenue in many ways....AND can make up a $20B loss quite easily - and WHEN they want to.... As a previous post mentioned, whenever an oil company reports 'a loss', it is always to THEIR advantage.... All they have to do is readjust their product price to the refineries and in between (leasing and royalties) and by trickling it down all the way to the consumer on that alone. The United States economy for over 100+ years since the inception of the industrial revolution has been based on : OIL The world economy is still based on : OIL The oil companies control the supply and command of their product (notice I didn't state "demand") Oil companies is one of the few products in the world that would STILL have a profit margin even at rock bottom prices The trend of the increased electric vehicles market is mainly based in dense cities, and some countries in the world that have no oil development as previous posts mentioned the reasons as such like cleaner air and dependency, etc....as many more people around the world are forced to live in cities due to economic reasons is still increasing - there will be quite a market for electric vehicles for generations to come - which will not hurt the oil companies. Other than a hydro plant, LP or natural gas plant, or a coal plant to generate energy to factories in order to make electric cars, the majority of power plants will still be oil based, as it takes a lot of energy to manufacture ANYTHING. I know a operations supervisor that works in the North Slope at Prudhoe Bay and Kaktovik Alaska as he told me this perspective a few years back on oil companies will still reign : In the United States, there is this '300 foot well' rule that the federal government will tax if any well reaches or exceeds that depth, as there are inactive wells because of this....they know the oil is there, they pre-drill the spot just under 300 feet and cap it....and then develop it when the time comes. The total world's consumption of oil in it's first 100+ years exceeded past 1 trillion barrels. . . . .it is estimated that there are still 5 trillion more barrels of oil in the earth. . . . . . it is just going to be a 'little' harder to get to - and produce it. I believe BP's reported loss was near $62B during that 2010 sickening disaster in the Gulf of Mexico offshore platform explosion... ...and reported almost a $6B loss for 2020 - and they still hadn't gone out of business by any means, as they are STILL around and producing. Big Oil isn't going anywhere nor folding.
AKsilvereagle 02/07/21 05:38am Around the Campfire
RE: Travelling from Nevada to Alaska in the Middle of Winter

There are one of two options I recommend : 1 - Use the same spur adjuster...and lubricate BOTH the male and female thread assemblies with anti seize lube after cleaning the spur adjuster and threads on the assembly 2 - Replace with a new spur adjuster assembly...and lubricate BOTH the male and female thread assemblies with anti seize lube On rigs still using the current assembly parts (like the travel trailer on this thread), what I do with the same spur adjuster is mark a dot on a tooth or on the side of the round wheel at any position (like 12 o' clock) before rotating it, so you know how many full turns it takes to remove the thread assembly which in turn knowing the exact position it originally was when you reassemble it after cleaning and lubricating the threads.... I used brakeleen to clean old assemblies, and apply a light lube spray on the threads and thread hole, installing fully in and back out to ensure the assembly turns freely and knowing there is no piitted or hang up areas of the assembly - before I re-lubricated the threads again with anti seize lube by applying it on both male and female threads, screw the assembly all the way in and back out, and reinstall again to original position (which will be very close to the original adjustment).... This is a new spur adjuster I purchased when I assembled all new rear shoe brakes on my 1973 half ton F 100 Ford pickup that needed it : https://i.postimg.cc/qRbDjMr9/091.jpg Even with the brand new part, I still fully worked in the anti seize lube shown on this spur adjuster assembly (the silver-gray color coating the threads) One of the old spur adjuster assembly still had three minor hangup spots after lubricating (but still fully turned throughout after cleaned and lubricated) as the other side was still usable and turned freely with no hangup spots, however I replaced it with a new one anyway since the other side needed the new spur assembly and saved that used good part for a spare if needed.... https://i.postimg.cc/NMr631r7/107.jpg As you can see the spur adjuster at the bottom of the brake hardware on this axle, the advantage of applying the anti seize lube is the adjuster will always turn freely and protect the threads at the same time... https://i.postimg.cc/Kj1tPtmg/116.jpg As an additional precaution shown here on the backing plate - I coated the brake shoe pin mount areas with grease to slow down the long term rusting process as I also coat the pin mounts themselves with grease on the inside of the brake assembly, installed a vacuum cap over the bleed valve to protect it, etc. as the tricks of the trade of living in the arctic and avoiding long term problems. I have yet to have any problem with a seized, rusted, or dried up spur assembly ever re-occur under extreme cold or extreme heat conditions, even in the long term when I apply anti seize lube on the spur assemblies, - the spur adjuster will always turn freely at all times whenever the self adjuster kicks in....I mainly use anti seize lube for brake assemblies, exhaust nuts and bolts, and other assemblies where areas of heat or extreme moisture surround it so it will not be stubborn for any disassembly and what have ya - great stuff.
AKsilvereagle 02/07/21 03:56am RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: The mechanics secret

In general, from late October all the way thru first week of April, all I wear is Carthart Arctic Coveralls everywhere I go, at work and at home whether I am working on stuff or not.... In summer, I wear regular coveralls at work, and when working on all my 45 to 51 year old rigs to keep them running - never owned anything newer yet to this day (my 76 Lincoln Mark IV is still my youngest rig)
AKsilvereagle 02/01/21 06:38am Around the Campfire
RE: Travelling from Nevada to Alaska in the Middle of Winter

Two more important factors to mention : 1 - Looking at the current temperature spectrum of surrounding regions upon the Northern Polar Cap of the Arctic Ocean, Eastern Siberia, Northern Alaska Coast, and Interior Alaska....it is all lingering -20 F to -50 F surface temperatures and migrating in a south or southeast direction - not good. The North Pacific Ocean fronts where the warmer water is located - are not currently pushing its way north to the Alaska or Canada coast at this time, so at least for the first week of February it is going to be very cold in the Alaska Interior with local forecasts in the Fairbanks area ranging from -25 F to -45 F below temps for the next three days with wind chill temps ranging -45 F to -70 F below (I might get a day off or two because I work outside full time and it's going to be way too cold for normal outdoor tasks needed - and that I live the farthest away which is 30 miles out of the entire staff which I also have the seniority and the option to sit out when it is past -45 below) With that said, another sound of advice I would like to mention to the OP is : 2(a) - Diesel Rigs : - Although most places in Canada and Alaska during the winter months will make sure #1 diesel fuel blend will always be available and clearly marked on the pumps, make sure you are dispensing #1 blend diesel fuel - since a diesel rig has been mentioned.... Some places will have both #1 and #2 available, other places might only have #2 available (that others will use for home heating fuel purposes) - so be alert upon which diesel blend you will potentially dispense in case a particular diesel pump is vaguely marked.... Once the outside temperature reaches past sub zero F, one will be asking for it if running #2 diesel as the fuel will potentially jell up (and will jell up in extreme cold temps) and leave one stranded which will be a world of hurt.... Probably a good idea to bring adequate spare fuel onhand as well as diesel conditioner too. 2(b) - Gasoline Rigs : Definitely carry bottles of HEET or ISO HEET gas antifreeze to keep your fuel from getting real cold and freezing up when the outside temps reach -20 F or colder (one 12 oz bottle protects up to 20 gallons of fuel effectively). Good thing "Cardboard" was mentioned to place in front of radiator when needed.... I would add - Only cover two thirds of the radiator core space (centered) Diesel Rigs - At (-15 F -25 C)....Gasoline Rigs - At (-25 F -35 C) or colder when traveling at highway speed. Prolong idling is (should be) fine with cardboard in place at temps -30 F -35 C or colder... As mentioned, if idling engine temps are higher than normal (which will typically happen in warmer cold areas such as higher elevations or a 20 to 30 degree warmer area) - REMOVE the cardboard from radiator core area. Start being potentially cold vigilant this time of year when arriving in the central BC or Alberta areas, or if there is already extreme cold in the southern BC or Alberta area.
AKsilvereagle 02/01/21 06:26am RVing in Canada and Alaska
New Simplified US Federal 1040 Tax Form for Tax Year 2020

This is the most simplified tax form yet : 1 - All sources of income received in 2020 (Reported and Unreported) - This Includes : Wages, Salaries, Tips, Royalties, Capital Gains, Partnerships, Alimony, Interest Income, Contests, Prizes, Stocks, Dividends, Rentals, Sales, Compensation, Unemployment, Distributions, Retirement, Pensions, Annuities, Gambling Winnings, Lottery Winnings, Estates, Social Security, Etc. - Enter Total Amount on Line 1 2 - Enter Total Amount of Line 1 on Line 2 : Line 2 - This is the AMOUNT YOU OWE - Make your enclosed payment amount to : United States Treasury in the self addressed envelope provided with your new simplified tax form.
AKsilvereagle 01/24/21 08:49am Around the Campfire
RE: Travelling from Nevada to Alaska in the Middle of Winter

Just seen the recent post revived here.... Geez!! I was just looking into a local guy who can repack my bearings and he charges $125 per hour. I just learned about ez lube fittings and wondering if mine has them. I'll have to check when I get home. First of all... someone charging $125 per hour to repack wheel bearings is not expensive..... IT'S EXTORTION ! If the trailer has the ez lube fittings, that is fine in itself as you can grease it on the fly....if the assembly is a bearing buddy product - like others have posted, do not over grease them. My opinion for piece of mind is just having a standard solid cap setup on the trailer as it will last and be just as effective, same as on any standard 2WD front end vehicle with no issues.... no extra parts to worry about with other bearing assemblies that might fail (and not having to spend the extra money for the 'convenience') I generally pack the hub cavity as much as it will hold grease around the spindle by hand (hub in position around the spindle) and the bearing cap should be fully seated without trying to push out while rotating the wheel by hand (after installing the bearings and the mounting hardware in position before final adjustments), it should be good for the long haul ! If I were a real boat owner enthusiast (although I do own a scanoe and no boat trailer necessary) then I would go with the bearing buddies because of the submerging in water with the boat trailer wheels as they have pretty good seals for that purpose. Like others have mentioned, it is not difficult to repack bearings yourself - go to the parts store and invest in a $5 to $10 bearing repack tool and solid repack them which is way more effective then trying to hand pack them (and not get extorted).....you will be surprised how much grease will hold in a bearing with a solid repack. I always keep an extra bearing repack tool in my camper onhand just in case I ever would need one in an emergency. Here is a visual of a solid repack process of bearings : 1 - I cleaned inner and outer bearings with solvent and brakeleen : https://i.postimg.cc/ncCNBr3S/021.jpg 2 - Inner bearing in center position of lower portion of bearing repack tool : https://i.postimg.cc/WpCc90qc/026.jpg 3 - Placing the top of cone assembly over the top of wheel bearing and snug in place, evenly seating wheel bearing surfaces CENTERED in position on upper and lower cone surfaces (very important) : https://i.postimg.cc/NG6frNPP/027.jpg 4 - Attach grease gun to shaft fitting and apply grease - as you can see the old black grease that was still in the inner bearing I could not get to after cleaning, forcing it's way out during the solid repack process : https://i.postimg.cc/bvy1KDSq/030.jpg 5 - Both inner and outer bearings shown repacked SOLID and FULL as grease will not run dry anytime in the distant future : https://i.postimg.cc/L5LDywhJ/034.jpg Do not forget about having that freeze plug block heater installed on the engine block (installing in one of the freeze plug holes) to keep the block all toasty and warm parked outside in sub freezing temps as I seen the pad heaters are mentioned as now onhand .... https://i.postimg.cc/Dz1q3LnN/056.jpg I highly recommend applying the more costly Blue 587 RTV Silicone as it is oil resistant unlike the standard blue RTV brand, and the oil resistant Blue 587 RTV cures better and faster too, while the pad will not unpeel or loosen at the corners compared to the other RTV brands : https://i.postimg.cc/Gpj6hBjM/065.jpg Hope these images help to ensure your winter haul to the far north.
AKsilvereagle 01/21/21 08:08am RVing in Canada and Alaska
Last Three Sessions of Bowling to End 2020

Sunday December 27 - Posted my first 280 plus game in quite a while, as a 289 game developed....Had the first ten strikes with two shots to go on the fill frames as my eleventh shot was what I thought the best delivery in that whole game, only to see the six pin hit the sideboard so violently I do not know how the corner right ten pin did not fall.....I felt good about achieving a 300 game here but to no avail - still a pretty good 1330 six game series though : https://i.postimg.cc/Pr7sk2pz/001.jpg Monday December 28 - This next session had started out great and transition arrived so fast, had a hard time striking with some bad breaks in between, however my game 4 was grand after achieving my 7th lifetime 300 perfect game, and a respectable 1316 six game series : https://i.postimg.cc/667FfC18/006.jpg Wednesday December 30 - This following session I never expected another significant achievement a third consecutive time but made it happen - my 9th lifetime 1400 plus six game series.... https://i.postimg.cc/vB6FTnJx/001.jpg After a split in the 8th frame of the final game, thought the 1400+ was out of the picture until I shot double strikes there after.....The first fill shot was actually a good pocket hit that left the nasty 7-10 corner pins split, and somehow the corner 7 pin fell real late right when the pinsetter lowered but did not touch the pin when it fell and even fooled the sensor not catching the pin falling, so I had to adjust the score where the picture shows the green 9 in the 10th fill frame, and had to convert the corner 10 pin to reach the 1400 milestone which I had done. 4046 total pinfall in last 18 games - a 224 average.
AKsilvereagle 01/01/21 11:54pm Around the Campfire
RE: More Reminiscing Part 2

Speaking of which - When I first rebuilt the Ford 429 engine in my 1970 Thunderbird - I had to put a lot of thought into it of what I really wanted and what to fully commit on, as far as making it a long term everyday driver or not.... So in 1988, I decided it would be best to eventually own another vehicle when I could afford to do so in the future and designate it as an everyday driver, rather than appointing my 70 T-Bird as an everyday driver in the long run.... - I decided NOT to lower the compression ratio at 9:1 in order to run pump gas (committing to the everyday driver status), and keep a stock mild build design by increasing the advertised 10.5:1 compression ratio to 11:1 with Forged TRW flattop pistons - The big block engine is a factory head design (D0VE-C) with only 72cc of volume, that is a CLOSED chamber design !!!!....This was the turning point of my decision after weighing the factors - I wanted this engine to still really hold the power that it was designed for and not make it an open chambered engine with the lower compression ratio (even though it would still be powerful), however it would be more expensive to run for an everyday driver in this regard because I would need to run 100 octane fuel or better as I would go to the fuel bulk plant or the airport to obtain AVGAS, which is 100 octane low lead fuel. - Since committing to keep the 11:1 compression ratio, this is what was also modified for my engine : TRW Forged .030 flattop pistons Dual Valve Springs 270-280 duration RV cam Hi Volume Water Pump Hi Volume Oil Pump True Double Roller Timing Set (still going at 113,000+ miles) ARP Distributor Oil Pump Shaft I first started mixing pump gas and AVGAS while still everyday driving the car at the time, and it did great on flat roads and cooler air, however on hot days or climbing hills it would still spark knock or ping - all that had stopped once I ran straight AVGAS full time. I have yet to see any vehicle succeed to passing my 5400 lb car going uphill on any 5% to 10% grades (differential only has 2.80:1 gearing) as I drive the car fast going uphill anymore. At the time when AVGAS was $1.596 a gallon at the bulk plant while pump gas here was around the $1.10 a gallon mark, my fuel mileage increased by a little over a mile per gallon running full AVGAS and my cents per mile figures had also beat (lowered) in comparison to running pump gas by the slightest of margin during mid summer season because of the increased fuel mileage on straight AVGAS alone. With current fuel prices, there is no way to overcome a lower cents per mile running straight AVGAS nowadays with pump gas at $2.559 a gallon and AVGAS at $4.640 a gallon (bulk plant) in my area....buying AVGAS at the airport would fetch $5.200 a gallon. The only real drawbacks to running AVGAS for me is : Due to federal law and some state laws, a retailer cannot directly dispense that fuel in any motor vehicle, so for years I carried 32 gallons of gas cans in the trunk (it's a two dead body sized trunk) and the fuel distributors were allowed to fill the cans themselves with AVGAS without an issue.....I would drive off the property and empty my gas cans dispensing into my fuel tank myself, pull back in with an additional prepaid invoice and have them refill my gas cans. Having to stop at airports in non local areas was another drawback by having to either clear security if there was no direct access to a fuel station, or wait a while upon purchasing fuel depending how they ran an airport's format. Here is a picture I taken after getting cleared by security to enter the tarmac at Whitehorse International Airport in the Yukon Territory during my vacation in June 1994 - - - - Filler Up, Please : https://i.postimg.cc/Jz2rhLpx/june-1994-whitehorse-int-l-airport-filler-up-please-whitehorse-yukon-territory-canada-251.jpg Since October 1985, I have logged and kept track of every fuel purchase I made, amount paid, gallons consumed, price per gallon, fuel grade, miles per gallon and cents per mile with logged odometer readings to every vehicle I own.
AKsilvereagle 01/01/21 09:44pm Around the Campfire
RE: Last night I had a dream

Last night I had this real nightmare of getting ran over by some 18 wheeler.... After waking up, I still felt pretty tired.
AKsilvereagle 12/25/20 10:44am Around the Campfire
RE: Remember when tv

AKSilvereagle- Another thing I miss is the Mom and Pop restaurants with home cooked food instead of chain restaurant's of today. Some small Kansas towns still have home cooking but it's rare. In Kansas we had the three networks as a kid then got PBS later on. Remember all the antennas on long poles at every house to get reception. Also remember going out and turning the pole to get the best reception while Dad would call out through the window. We were a fringe area for reception. I feel you - Over the past 10 years, what Mom and Pop roadhouses remained on the Alaska Highway in Canada that actually survived thru 2010 are virtually all gone now, a thing in the past.... When Rancheria Lodge closed in 2018, that really hurt. Shepherds Inn, Sasquatch Crossing, Toad River Lodge, Northern Rockies Lodge, Liard Hot Springs Lodge, Contact Creek Lodge, Yukon Motel in Teslin, Otter Falls, Talbot Arm in Destruction Bay are pretty much all that is left on the Alaska Highway as far as "roadhouse type" remote places off the top of my head that I know for sure that are still open on the Canadian side.... On the Alaska side, there are no remote roadhouses anymore - pretty much Fast Eddys in Tok is the main hub to get a bite to eat on the Alaska Highway in Alaska. Fast Eddys, Border City (when they had a running restaurant) in Alaska, Otter Falls in the Yukon and Humptys in Fort St. John used to be open 24 hours on the Alaska Highway, not anymore. I also remember having to move the UHF rabbit ears antenna around the house to get good reception depending which channel you wanted to watch, such as in the kitchen on the toaster, or on the stereo, or hangin out the window outside.
AKsilvereagle 12/25/20 10:25am Around the Campfire
RE: More Reminiscing Part 2

Although I started a similar topic posted years ago, I will re-elaborate my first of vehicles : Vehicle driven for driver license test : 1968 Ford Thunderbird (4 door suicide) - family owned vehicle 429 V8 - C6 trans Test official was so impressed with the luxurious features and the sheer power she wanted the car, and told me to turn on the radio after having to parallel park in busy traffic as she gave me a 98 out of 100 score and became a licensed driver at 16. June 1981 - Hollywood DMV - Los Angeles CA First vehicle owned : 1969 Pontiac Custom S (Tempest) - $50 purchase price 350 V8 - Powerglide 2 speed trans Purchased tune up parts, spark plugs, wires, a $50 Shell lifetime battery, lifter free additive, and fresh gas in order to get it running....then the pet goat ate the entire vinyl off the rooftop and made it look like a Baja California car, but blended right in every bad neighborhood I commuted in.... Second vehicle owned : 1974 Plymouth Road Runner - $150 purchase price 318 V8 - 3 speed standard (floor shift) Rear diff was shot (4.11 posi) but had a rebuildable 383 V8 onhand that I was going to use for this gem of a car, however due to not being economically viable finding a cheap deal for a rear diff at any junk yard, had to trade my 383 V8 for a rear diff assembly off a 1972 Coronet station wagon that would work and did a straight trade and pay $35 for a custom driveline that had to be cut to length and balanced... The only drawback was - it had 3.26 gearing and the car accelerated slow like a tractor, however the benefits were idling with no throttle at 15 mph on trails in high 3rd gear without ever locking up, and got great gas mileage on the freeways with feather throttle at 60 mph, very economical to drive around. Third vehicle owned : 1970 Ford Thunderbird (2 door) - $325 purchase price 429 V8 - C6 trans People thought I was crazy buying this "ugly car" that had no driver side window with a shot transmission (that I made it last over 8000 miles) but I knew what I had, first vehicle purchased in Alaska.... When I announced I was going to drive this car to Los Angeles and back in 1985, over 90% of everyone I told said to me I would never make it with that car on a one way trip, let alone a round trip.... Six round trips later from Fairbanks AK to Los Angeles CA and back between 1985 and 1991 (and then some), plus 41 round trips to Anchorage and back (400 plus miles each way) - this car has seen a lot of long distance travel (even crossed the Arctic Circle). I still own the car to this very day after 36 years and 4 months from the first day I bought it, 113,000 rebuilt miles on the engine and 151,000 miles on the rebuilt transmission - it's only a summer commute rig. This is one of the main factors where the AKsilvereagle name comes from.
AKsilvereagle 12/25/20 09:06am Around the Campfire
RE: Remember when tv

Remember when television would go off the air of a night. The would play the star spangled banner then go dead air. Also remember getting up early in the morning as a kid to see the test pattern with the Indian chief head. Well, being raised in Los Angeles during the 1970's, only a handful of VHF stations were not 24 hour broadcast as they were considered "independent" - Channels KTLA 5 (still my favorite which I watch streamline news broadcasts) KHJ 9 (now KCAL), KTTV 11, and KCOP 13.... I remember when those stations were going off the air at night, they would also display the "TELEVISION CODE" tv screen shaped icon (surprised that was not mentioned).... The UHF channels 22 KWHY (English and Japanese), 28 KCET (PBS)-had to edit this one as I initially forgot to post it, 34 KMEX (Spanish - the only UHF channel which was 24 hours), 40 (stumped on the call sign but could never get any adequate reception), and KBSC Channel 52 was one of my all time favorites as well loaded with - cartoons - old game shows - and old variety shows, pretty much it was TV Land before there ever was a TV Land. The "network" Channels - 2 KNXT (now KCBS), 4 KNBC and 7 KABC were mainly 24 hours on the air with one intermittent day of the week sign off at 400am to 500am timeframe for like 30 minutes to a couple hours and displayed their test pattern. When I lived in one area of Hollywood (off Sunset and Wilton), I was within a one mile radius from the KWHY, KTTV, KBSC, and KTLA studios !!! As far as "getting up early in the morning", that was never me - I would be awake from staying up all night to see the test patterns and opening on the air broadcasts as I was never a morning person, and STILL not one, and will never be one as I always had trouble with early hour school and early hour jobs. We didn't get color television until 1968. A 25 inch Sylvania console. When was your first color TV set? Neighbors had a new RCA color TV in 1964. First color TV set my family household ever had was finally in 1981 and it was a Sears 19 inch "touch tune" without the knobs or remote control as we all pitched in together and scraped up every cent to get "it"....Sale price special offer of $199.99 (regular price $299.99) - plus 6% California sales tax which I had to pay that extra $12 "state extortion" since I was the youngest in the family. During my tenure in Los Angeles, all of our TV's were black and white of course and either ended up with donated thrashed ones, or pawn shop TV's for $30 or less....in which that was the only way we could afford having two TV's in the household which were very essential in order to fully watch any TV back in the day.... Our household TV's were always stacked up on each other, as one TV would only have working sound and no active screen (audio), while the other TV would only have working active screen and no sound (video). Also remember motels with a sign that stated they had color TV and air conditioning. Loved seeing all the neon lights pulling into a town of a night, motels especially were lit up. This topic strikes a nerve for me as I will explain : Upon a 4 day side trip visiting Anaheim in 2009 after a 24 year absence, my friend asked me if I driven thru the Disneyland area before stopping by as I said no, he explained to me that I need to see the area before venturing back to Las Vegas (as I was there primarily visiting for a month).... I was told I would be sick to my stomach to see how that area is now and I would not recognize the area at all - it was that much of a change.... While Disney acquired more land to expand their park within the surrounding area, at the same time the city passed a new "transformation project" ordinance of required guidelines of landscaping makeovers and business signs to any other establishments that dared to remain in existence to comply or else.... There used to be like 50 plus motels surrounding the Disneyland area with marquee shapes and very creative designed signs that were neon and such from the 1950's and 1960's that had so much character and thrived but the majority of them motels I noticed were now gone, while other business that remained in the surrounding area were even forced to replace their character marquee signs (other than Disneyland's own signs) with the new boring ordinance guidelines that matched today's corporate brand of signage that we all see today in North America. When I cruised thru the area upon my departure back to Las Vegas, all I seen was corporate hotels, corporate food chains, corporate businesses, and tons of palm trees not previously there before (non Southern California native palm trees at that) which had no character what so ever surrounding the entire area. Not only I did not recognize the area, I was appalled by the landscape and the changes that now looks like anytown USA 12345. I too miss the marquee neon signs of motels that used to be there advertising COLOR TV, AIR CONDITIONING, POOL, NO VACANCY. Oh, and Merry Christmas everybody.
AKsilvereagle 12/25/20 06:53am Around the Campfire
RE: Travelling from Nevada to Alaska in the Middle of Winter

The few comments I would like to add are : Expect the unexpected for winter travel, period - I also do recommend having chains "onhand" if you EVER need them, particularly in the northern rockies region - If an area so happens to develop significant freezing rain while on the road, you are definitely gonna wish you have tire chains as there are many hills throughout southern and central BC and on the Alaska Highway - I read the OP stated previously been in Alaska in the past, however not sure if time was ever spent in Interior Alaska where it is much colder in the winter in comparison to the much milder coastal or southcentral regions, but I will cover this portion in case if never spent time in the Interior during winter : - Solid repack trailer bearings with red #2 lithium grease as it is suitable for both summer and winter weather with a wide temperature range, as a Nevada to Alaska trip would fit this criteria....I personally would not run arctic grease in regions that are above freezing and have yet to apply that stuff on my rigs here in my area. Notice the drive BC signs posted by Soup stating passenger cars, trucks, and RV's "MUST USE WINTER TIRES" - They mean it in British Columbia as I recommend also installing "winter rated" tires and not typical "AT" tires for the truck .....G series Goodyear, Blizzak, and other equivalent winter rated snow-ice tires are soft compound that are ideal for winter conditions...running harder compound tires in winter like typical AT tires is simply asking for it, especially on a long haul towing trip like this. Running AT tires on the trailer should be fine, providing the tread has some type of horizontal grooves that will rooster snow off of them, as it might be safe to have onhand a set of tire cables for the trailer if needed. If running the G series Goodyear or equivalent, I recommend getting the tread siped as well, which tapers the tread and will rooster the snow and moisture off the tires better, and the tread will last longer too keeping the tires a little cooler. Block heater is essential to have especially for a diesel engine, oil pan heater is also mentioned however if the transmission is an automatic, I also highly recommend a pad heater (75w or 100w) for the transmission pan as well, as the torq converter oil will warm up so much faster and put less strain on the valve body and pump, as all 7 of my Ford C6 transmissions have pad heaters on every one of them. A battery heating pad or trickle charger is more efficient than a battery blanket too, however I never used those items anymore since I only run CATERPILLAR batteries in all my rigs since 1999, the CATERPILLAR battery lead plates are silver cadmium coated and are great cold weather batteries as I never had an issue running anything to keep the battery warm or insulated in the Alaska Interior winters here. A few days ago when I was reading up on CBC news, the Yukon Government just declared new additional restrictive measures on travelers from abroad (non Yukon residents) of mandatory quarantine for 14 days upon arrival (this includes all BC and NWT residents as well, with the exception of Atlin BC and Lower Post BC residents).... I am assuming Alaska bound travelers are still under the 24 hour rule thru the Yukon Territory at this time, however that could or would be a hard stretch of commute under winter conditions from Watson Lake to the Alaska Border in a 24 hour period, especially towing a large trailer. The last I knew, CBSA restricted 5 land port of call border crossings to permitted Alaska bound or Alaska departure travelers...I believe they were : Blaine - Douglas Sumas - Huntingdon Oroville - Osoyoos Eastport - Kingsgate Sweetgrass - Coutts However predicting what the CBSA will enforce or restrict in the next 90 days or so is like predicting the weather in the next 90 days, so I would be checking up on updates often. yup, with the same restrictions as regual people passing through. there is increased scrutiny now due to quite a few people saying they were going to alaska then cught haveing vacations way out of the way of the pather between the boarder and alaska Got that right StirCrazy.......10 parties reported that were Alaska bound got caught venturing off to Banff Nat'l Park during the summer which was NOT a direct route to Alaska, knowing they signed and understood the restrictions of non essential travel thru Canada.... As the park rangers waited for the parties to return to their USA plate vehicles after hiking or visiting, they were clearly in violation and got cited on the spot between $800 to $1200 CAD as they had to pay it immediately or have their vehicle impounded until the citation was paid in full.....I say that was a pretty expensive hike on the trails. Since then, Canada imposed stricter measures for Alaska bound or departure travelers like imposing 5 to 7 days of travel using the most direct route, providing a placard to hang on the rear view mirror that's marked Alaska bound and having to clear with CBSA upon departure from Canada before clearing with US Customs to re-enter the United States. Lodging accommodations for US travelers in Canada during this hardship of times shouldn't be an issue at all as that is what they are in business for. One other post that mentioned mechanical breakdowns and such upon restricted travel, I can attest to that on sharing what my boss went thru last September-October : First of all, I was surprised the CBSA permitted my boss into Canada this year as he tows a horse trailer with his horses to Washington State every year in the fall (keeping the horses there during the winter months) and not knowing if it would fly this year as essential travel.... Then he had problems when he got to Muncho Lake as the truck had little to no power towing thru Muncho Lake, Summit Lake, and Steamboat Mountain - and somehow made it to Fort Nelson as he was stranded at the machine shop for four days as their hardened taps broke trying to rethread something.....had to expedite some parts available in Edmonton for overnight delivery - meanwhile everyone in the Fort Nelson community that knew the situation went out of their way to help my boss with the horses and were so nice, as the RCMP escorted the horses to a corral just west of town for safekeeping while informing the CBSA that my boss was currently travel delayed due to mechanical issues as he finally cleared customs with no issues when the truck was sound again.
AKsilvereagle 11/23/20 08:19am RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: Fairbank AK -- Northern Lights ????

I'm with Orion and PA12DRVR on this one reference to northern lights viewing in Alaska that they pointed out in their posts that I will elaborate on.... It is a crapshoot when skies will be clear anywhere in the far north to plan on arriving, however in all my years living here in the Fairbanks area - the best two months of northern lights viewing by far are : March and September 1. - March - When people in other regions personally ask me when is the best time or best chance to view the northern lights, March is the only time I recommend if they are going to invest a travel trip from abroad... For one, March seems to always have the most clear sky days and nights out of any month of the year....and generally I would notice seeing the lights most every night in March when it is clear in this area. For two, one would not be generally be exposed to -30 F something below temperatures at all as -20 F to -25 F below is still common lows in March....Fairbanks low temps in general during March on a clear night will average between +10 F to -20 F depending on the current coldfront or warmfront. March is also the month of the year that the sun exposure gains the most in the Fairbanks area, almost 7 minutes each day times 31 days - which amounts to 11 to 15 hours of twilight per day which in turn still having a potential 14 to 9 hours of nightfall to still view the northern lights.....which would give a visitor the best of both nice sightseeing days and great potential clear viewing nights. As noted, the Ice Sculpture event happens during March as a lot more events in Fairbanks take place in March rather then in December....Hopefully the Ice Sculpture event will be back up and running again. I have only witnessed -30 F below lows for a week straight in the month of March only once in 1992, and never seen it -40 F below in March ever until 2007 when the low temps were -40 F to -44 F below for the first two and a half weeks - unbelievable ! As mentioned, the equinox months of earth also happen to be March and September and most active for season change cycle for majority of the planet, which I would guess makes sense due to increased solar activity. 2. - September - On clear nights, late August and September seems to be hit and miss with aurora activity although can be dazzling at times....quite a few times when I go stealth and leave home driving at night on my way to Tok in my camper getting a head start to Canada this time of year, I get a great northern lights show for 200 miles straight non stop and turn off my headlights when there is no oncoming traffic and really enjoy them while driving. However there are not as many clear nights in August and September as it does tend to rain, or snow at times during September which means cloud cover and no viewing. For the OP and the large group planning on a December trip to Fairbanks, as others have chimed in reasons why it would not be the best timeframe to do so, I will also elaborate in my perspective : Fairbanks weather history has shown December to be moderately in the top three snowiest months during the winter the majority of time, which means not a lot of potential northern light viewing compared to March.... If there is no warm trend or snowing a lot in December, you can bet it is going to be a potential 62 day January which is going to be downright bitter cold with daytime highs in the -40's F below or perhaps colder, and it's going to prolong to a multi week coldspell that a visitor will not like - and if it happens to reach record cold temperatures of -60 F for a visitor with no end in sight when a coldspell like that would appear, everything shuts down - transportation, airports, etc..... Although the conditions will be right for northern lights viewing, there are at times no aurora activity during these prolong coldspells in my experience this time of year.... Also to note that if one is in Fairbanks at -35 F below (particularly during -45 F below or colder), head to the foothills nearby and get out of the ice fog to view the northern lights at it's best when they are ampin'. With less than 4 hours of sun over the horizon per day in December, daytime highs will not significantly make a difference in the Fairbanks area until late February under clear skies, as during November thru February us Interior Alaskans have to rely on cloud cover or warm trend weather fronts to get any above 0 F temperatures. Whenever Interior Alaska starts a prolong multi week nasty coldspell, it will generally start in November, December, or January. As noted, airfare is higher priced in December because of the holidays. I personally would go against the advice of renting a car if one is planning to drive the 60 miles east on Chena Hot Springs Road to the resort, as it is not the nicest road to drive on during the winter, especially if one is not a seasoned winter driver let alone a visitor unfamiliar with this roadway (plus the fact if the rental car issued is not equipped with winter tires). There are many careless drivers in a hurry thru mile 20, then traffic gets lighter from there however there are a share of DUI drivers and other accidents too because of driving too fast in prudent conditions because of the frost heaves and blind curves due to slick conditions in the higher elevations where there are warmer temperatures in the various foothills.... Take the shuttle to Chena Hot Springs Resort instead. As for the OP, I would reconsider visiting the Fairbanks area to see the northern lights during March instead, or if December is the only option, consider Southcentral Alaska where the temperatures are much milder in the winter south of the Alaska Range, however it is a pretty good chance of potential coastal cloud cover to run into, as a short commute inland with a clear weather forecast would in my opinion have the same chance of seeing the northern lights there as Fairbanks in the month of December, plus you get a couple more daylight hours per day of sightseeing there in December without the bitter cold weather.
AKsilvereagle 10/25/20 07:46am RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: Fairbank AK -- Northern Lights ????

December in Fairbanks is cold, cold enough to be scary, minus 9 is not fun, it is dangerous..... Sorry, I got to address on this misleading comment - Temperature of minus -9 F below is not dangerous at all to us Interior Alaskans that live here.... Although with merit, it would be very well dangerous at -9 F below if one does NOT dress up for it at all and arrive dressed up in a typical Southern California attire and are willing to spend a significant amount of time outdoors with no winter gear to keep them warm. One prime example of why -9 is not considered dangerous temperature : School buses will not operate and pick up students in the Fairbanks area if the outside temperature reaches or exceeds -45 below F, and yes the students will wait for a school bus if the temperature is -44 F below zero regardless of the dense ice fog. Commuting around in -40 F below temperatures in order to shop, work, and do the everyday life activities is a much common practice here when the temperatures get that cold - even during those ungodly two to three week -50 F below coldspells does not deter people from commuting around either unless one couldn't get their vehicle started. I will absolutely stay put when the temperature reaches -60 F below and will go into survival mode stand by (especially if things ever go south with my house trailer that I live in which the outside walls start 'poppin' at -57 F and colder) - -60 F is very dangerous cold even for a running vehicle (commuting) and nothing to play with, and no matter how fully dressed up one is in quality winter gear. For the record, I have lived in the Fairbanks area for the past 38 years now - (38 years to life) and seen actual -60 F below and colder in my tenure on three occasions. The first 17 years of my life I was born at LA County USC hospital and raised in Hollywood, the Coachella Valley and briefly in Las Vegas, with a 3 year break 1969-1972 in South Lake Tahoe, Reno, Sparks....so yes this post is from a native Angelino. For a group of people, an average temperature of above freezing at night would work out much better..... Hate to bring this up, however this would not work for Interior Alaska.... October thru late April on average, the overnight lows in the Fairbanks area are below freezing for the 6 to 7 month duration, with the exception of a warm front which brings in cloud cover, snow, or rain which also means no northern lights to observe. In the Fairbanks area, roughly half of September - the night time temperatures do hover below the freezing mark, and in October it might be three to five days that the overnight low will be above the freezing mark which would be an Indian Summer... So in other words, "an average temperature of above freezing at night" in the Fairbanks area does not start until late April on average (by that time will reach the 19 hours+ of twilight in a day) and can be as late as the third week of May depending on a late spring coldfront which by then will be 24 hours of twilight.
AKsilvereagle 10/25/20 07:45am RVing in Canada and Alaska
Bowled the First 800 Three Game Series of My Life !!!!!

It is still sinking in that I accomplished this ultimate feat that is sooooo hard to get.... Six game session #1099 on Thursday July 30, 2020 (games 6589 thru 6594) put me on top of a bowling plateau that not a great number of people have reached - an ultimate achievement of a 3-game 800 series (Which happens to also be only the 7th 750+ 3-game series of my lifetime). My previous bowling achievement post from last year resulted thru : Four - 300 Perfect Games One - 299 Game Earlier this year I also bowled achieving : My Second Lifetime 299 Game on March 04, 2020 - leaving a ringing 10 pin as the shot was dead flush perfect and not striking : https://i.postimg.cc/m23frHjS/001.jpg My Fifth Lifetime 300 Perfect Game on May 16, 2020 : https://i.postimg.cc/9FDw5cBV/008.jpg My Sixth Lifetime 300 Perfect Game on May 29, 2020 - with a personal best "official" three game series (Series B game 4 5 6) of 782 : https://i.postimg.cc/XJyN1vbD/004.jpg Now I have a personal best six game series of 1472 (my 7th lifetime 1400+ six game series) Series A - 665 (game 1 of 204 on monitor not shown)... This Game 4 starting out was my Third Lifetime 299 Game in Series B (light pocket hit leaving the 8 pin that did not carry for a 7th 300 game) - resulting in finishing with a 299-252-256 = 807 Series : https://i.postimg.cc/25Nd6sXM/011.jpg The one bad shot that occurred just happened to be in the fill frame of the second game with a greek church split 5 count, had to make a substantial adjustment and a new line of path on the next shot in the right lane (first shot of game 6 in frame 2) not knowing if I made the right decision as the lanes were getting pretty unpredictable on break point reactions and hit 8 of 9 strikes in game 6 as the left lane struck all 5 times with two micro adjustments and executing well.... As for the right lane, the first shot of the new target and path struck and the second shot in the 4th frame left a ringing 10 pin that shook but did not fall, however I converted the spare.... Struck dead flush in frames 6 and 8, as frame 10 I stayed put in the same position and ball speed, as the ball matched its path with same break point but really cut sharper to the left resulting in a fast 8 count leaving the 4-7 pin standing and almost split as the major adjustment in the right lane only held 4 times within the pocket area on the final game.... Then I looked at the monitor not knowing how close I was or if I had reached the 249 needed to accomplish this incredible feat of an 800, as I still needed to spare it and have one fill shot needing 2 pins, as I was crying on the approach and had to step off and regroup as it was so mentally hard and took the shot as I make this 4-7 spare around 98 percent of the time and converted it hitting the 4 pin on the left side almost missing it.... I was in more tears as the pins were water eyed vision and kept the bowling ball on the lane as I nailed a 9 count on the final shot closing out with an 807.... For you bowlers out there, the ball I shot this 800 with was the Motiv Forge Fire (layout 40* x 3.5 x 40*) as my PAP measurement is right handed 6.00" and 1.00' up.... This ball also contributed to the 5th and 6th 300 Perfect Games of recent....The second 299 game was with the Motiv Venom Recoil ball. All five of my different Motiv bowling balls are averaging between 200.67 to 208.71 as they all have 120 games each on them and only resurfaced once after the 60th game. I always said I would trade all my Perfect 300 games for ONE 3-Game 800 series but now I don't have to as I can go to my grave with confidence knowing I achieved a 3 game 800 series !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
AKsilvereagle 08/23/20 09:36pm Around the Campfire
RE: Border closure extended..again

Back in July I practically wrote off knowing there was a slim to none chance upon going to Canada this year - with the increasing pandemic cases in the United States occurring out of control.... I am really bummed that my 13 consecutive years of visiting Canada will come to an end and 14 of the last 15 years at that. So this what the last day I spent in Canada returning home in my 2WD rig looked like in Oct 2019 with four inches of snow on the shoulders at this point : Mile 1135 Alaska Hwy. at White River Bridge : https://i.postimg.cc/wtyjz6ZF/3139.jpg Mile 1136 Alaska Hwy. : https://i.postimg.cc/kR7816GB/3143.jpg Got a break from snowfall for a bit along the way to Beaver Creek before going thru more intermittent ice and snow covered roads on the Alaska side.... Mile 1141 Alaska Hwy. : https://i.postimg.cc/Z9KDvn4F/3155.jpg Final Stop in Canada to Date... 1202 Inn - Beaver Creek Yukon Territory : https://i.postimg.cc/DJmGGkSM/3203.jpg I decided not to travel abroad in the states this year because of the pandemic (too scared to travel by plane and face strict travel measures) and was thinking what kind of camping trip I would do on my vacation time this year in which I decided to take time off anyway and stay landlocked in Alaska - On a Plan B scenario earlier in the summer should Canada be out of the equation later on - is possibly going to Kodiak Island for the first time, but decided not to after an outbreak occurred on the MV Matanuska just recently. So a plan C is in the works which will be a short RV trip somewhere in Alaska this year - either a Kenai Peninsula, Interior-Southcentral Loop, or an Arctic Circle trip if the weather holds up by the time I am ready to go on the road. I was due to start my 2020 trip thru Dawson City Yukon, however that is done cancelled, so it is officially official that I will not be present in Canada in 2020.
AKsilvereagle 08/23/20 07:59pm RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: hauling trailer to Alaska

Just like the recent commenters that have posted pretty much sums it up that I can also verify - I have no solar power and rarely use my Honda 2000 generator which is mainly for a backup and glad to have it when it is needed....Fairbanks region does NOT get dark between mid May thru the first week of August, so plenty of daylight here during summer - it will get dark south of the Alaska Range like 3 to 4 hours per day in the Anchorage area during June ... Solid repacking wheel bearings and quality tires is a must for a piece of mind trip like this - you especially don't want mechanical problems in remote Canada unless you want to give up one of your kidneys and first born per se. I would highly recommend installing new wheel bearings with new races since the travel trailer was mentioned well used condition... Living here in the arctic region I only use red #2 lithium grease year round for all my rigs and trailer, as it has a very high and low temperature range protection, doesn't break down much and has decent water resistance too. Frost heaves are sparsely around the Yukon and a few places in Alaska, you really want to slow down while driving thru these bumpy spots or face potential damage to suspension parts or worse... Binoculars.....make sure you have binoculars onhand too.
AKsilvereagle 07/04/20 08:57pm RVing in Canada and Alaska
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