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RE: Plumbing Confusion

THREAD RESOLUTION: It was the check valve on the hot water heater. Now all of the water is coming out at a normal rate, and there is no more weird mixing of hot and cold. How exactly the check valve did that is still a mystery to me. But I did come out in pieces when I took it off.
AdvancedQs 06/19/22 10:26am Tech Issues
RE: Plumbing Confusion

Thanks, Doug and everyone. I have normal flow out they release on the hot water heater outside the RV. So yeah. It’s the check valve doing something weird. The new one will arrive tomorrow and I’ll update the thread with some results once I get that in.
AdvancedQs 06/11/22 02:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Plumbing Confusion

I will check #1 when the tank cools down a little bit. Because I just used a generic picture to show a hot water heater and bypass, I’m going to put in pictures of my real system right now. Would appear that there is only one check valve. Just on the hot water side. It’s a straight pipe in on the cold water side. Is that my problem then? https://i.ibb.co/RBQQJTS/D5-B7059-D-402-C-4-F4-B-8-E58-222944-ADD832.jpg https://i.ibb.co/YtGB823/CB4-AE269-C864-4310-AF54-1-B3-C6-CA71-A30.jpg
AdvancedQs 06/08/22 11:37am Tech Issues
RE: Plumbing Confusion

OK, I can definitely safely say that number #2 is known. That bypass valve is set and tested to be set only in a way that it passes straight through to the water heater right now. Literally removed the valve from the system, tested it in all of its settings, tested it with compressed air to make sure that it only goes in the direction I want it to, and it was completely airtight for the bypass section of pex and completely open to the hot water heater side.
AdvancedQs 06/08/22 11:28am Tech Issues
RE: Plumbing Confusion

My screen name is definitely accurate. Ha ha ha. Advanced question, no doubt
AdvancedQs 06/08/22 10:07am Tech Issues
RE: Plumbing Confusion

Also, the cold water is alternating between hot and cold! I can feel the temperature change from cold to lukewarm cold to lukewarm. And this happens when the pump cycles. When you are using the cold water it is mostly cold and alternates to a little bit of warm. When you are using the hot water, it is mostly warm, not the full heat you would normally feel, and cycles a little bit cold. The bypass valve is working properly. It is set to just send water from the freshwater system through to the intake of the water heater. And that’s it. The heck could cause the symptoms? Also, the flow rate is very low.
AdvancedQs 06/08/22 10:00am Tech Issues
RE: Plumbing Confusion

OK, now it’s getting really tricky. It had nothing to do with that valve. I am passing straight through that valve now. Straight through from the freshwater system to the hot water heater without bypass. All I did was take the valve off and confirm what setting causes it to just go straight through to the hot water heater. Just to be careful, I replaced the valve again in case I got a defective one. So it is definitely not allowing anything to go through the bypass and everything is going to the hot water heater yet I still have a lot of problems. There is only a trickle of water making it out of the hot water heater. There’s nothing else involved here except the check valve on the hot water heater. Is that what’s wrong? Is that what blew up my bypass valve originally? Because it blew up when I turned the hot water heater on. This is how much water I’m getting out at full open tap. On the hot water side. Just a trickle. And it’s kind of warm. But it gets kind of cold here and there also. If it’s the check valve I’m going to be a little upset because this hot water heater is like a year old. It was working great. And now all of a sudden it’s not. https://i.ibb.co/Q6r5Wnm/4-C1-DA463-446-F-45-B1-8-CC4-CE2081-E908-EF.jpg
AdvancedQs 06/08/22 09:48am Tech Issues
RE: Plumbing Confusion

You do not want Combine as an option on that valve. First, turn off the water heater and your water pump or city supply. Then remove the plug or anode rod and drain the water from the tank. Set the valve where you think no water should be going into the tank. Turn on the water and go see if water is coming out of the water heater. If no water coming from the tank turn on a hot water spigot inside. If you get water out of it, the valve is where you need it for winterizing. Mark it and turn off the water. Now you have two options left for operating position. Pick one of those 2. Turn the water back on. Are you getting water out of the tank drain? If no, go to position 3. Are you getting water from the tank drain now? If you only get water in one of the two positions, that is your normal operating setting. If you get water from the tank drain in both of the positions, you will have to fill the water heater, heat it back up and see which one gives you hot water and which on might give you warm water. OK. This is pretty good advice. Thank you. Just stepping back and doing it a little more logically. I figured I could just throw in a valve, especially the two a one that I had got initially, and it would just work as it always has. I guess there is some testing I should be doing instead. Good point. And yes. That combine option is just superfluous. I just wanted to get some other fitting that may work. Since the two way fitting did not work. Which didn’t make any sense to me.
AdvancedQs 05/31/22 12:17pm Tech Issues
Plumbing Confusion

A few months back my hot water heater bypass valve blew apart. Luckily I was in the RV when it happened so I caught it. Otherwise my entire water tank would have ended up on the floor in the RV. The body of the valve blew apart. This is under normal 12v pump pressure. https://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=32796&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1617559943 So I ordered a replacement Flair-It valve off Amazon. This exact one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002UCAE2U?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title It had 2 settings. Flow through or divert. It didn’t let the hot water fill up on the flow through setting and I guess diverted fine. So then I ordered this one. It has 3 settings. Pass through, divert and combine. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRUNEIA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title One setting turns off my hot water entirely. The other 2 settings make it so I can feel some warm water coming through, but as the pressure of the line drops waiting for the pump pressure switch to engage, it goes cold. I’m at my wits end here. I can’t see why these simple replacement valves aren’t working. Any ideas? I’ve wasted $30 or so on this now. Getting so frustrated that it doesn’t work, but I’m just thinking of taking out the bypass entirely.
AdvancedQs 05/31/22 10:29am Tech Issues
RE: Major Problems with Bed of Truck - how to fix?

I guess you just aren’t getting how a bed works with a frame and towers. That’s all you’re missing. I know exactly how beds attach. I just can't see how yours is attached in your photos. Any way, it doesn't really matter if you are happy with it. Maybe this will help make it clear. That’s a much stronger tower in the picture replacing the stock one that crumpled. The white part is the rear of the cab. Maybe you were thinking it was a different view. It’s driving like a dream. A little more twitchy though because I’m still used to the TC being able to roll a bit in the bed. Now that it’s transferring all roll directly into the frame, I can feel it a lot more. Different, but much better
AdvancedQs 04/15/22 05:39pm Truck Campers
RE: Major Problems with Bed of Truck - how to fix?

Before (w/previous 'fix') https://www.advrider.com/f/attachments/5aff397d-7f3c-4c8f-86de-f8aa55f0ac42-jpeg.3593455/ height=640 After https://i.ibb.co/X5k8ZZm/56-B94-B52-C6-D0-456-B-B43-B-BD55-B685711-B.jpg height=640 That’s an excellent visual summary.
AdvancedQs 04/15/22 06:07am Truck Campers
RE: Major Problems with Bed of Truck - how to fix?

Good job! Thank you! I’m pretty sure this will happen to lots of people that have a full size TC and stock bed after 150,000 miles of bumpy roads. So it’s a good idea to keep an eye on it if you’re a really serious traveler or just head it off at the pass with a preemptive reinforcement.
AdvancedQs 04/15/22 02:15am Truck Campers
RE: Major Problems with Bed of Truck - how to fix?

I'm not sure I'm seeing this right. It seems you are suspending your new crossmembers in the air instead of to the frame. What am I missing? How did you straighten your bed floor? I guess you just aren’t getting how a bed works with a frame and towers. That’s all you’re missing. Maybe google to see some pictures of trucks without the bed on. Look closely at the frame. It’s probably inherently a bad design. That’s why the original towers failed to begin with. Anyone know why they designed frames with the dip like that requiring the towers? I think the concept of KISS went out the window with modern vehicles. Flimsy bed (like all stock beds) is easily straightened by clamping in place or hammering or strapping, depending on the part of the bed, then welding to the new cross members. It’s the weakest sheet metal. Bends very VERY easily. All in all, not too impressed with the quality of the engineering that goes into this area of a pickup. When we do things on boats (building them), it’s to a completely different level. But I guess going for that quality would make what is essentially a disposable item much more expensive
AdvancedQs 04/15/22 02:12am Truck Campers
RE: Major Problems with Bed of Truck - how to fix?

And here is the fix. I highly suggest anyone who is going to go over 150,000 miles with one of the big campers in the back make this modification before your bed bends also. Better to do this preemptively. This thing will now last as long as the Cummins engine in it. 120 pounds added weight is a bummer, but no more worries is nice. Before anyone gets all upset, the cross beam that is out of place in the picture is just waiting to get welded on. It is not attached in that direction. https://i.ibb.co/X5k8ZZm/56-B94-B52-C6-D0-456-B-B43-B-BD55-B685711-B.jpg https://i.ibb.co/7Wbs97q/3603983-B-BA5-B-4-D0-C-BF4-C-CA9222-FA55-AF.jpg
AdvancedQs 04/14/22 05:10pm Truck Campers
RE: Major Problems with Bed of Truck - how to fix?

Considering the damage I would look at a dedicated rack system to hold the camper. I am thinking steel frame to support steel rails to slide and attach the camper. Remove the bed, build the frame, tack the bed sides back on for looks. Interesting response. Essentially, that’s exactly what I’m doing. I’m rebuilding the support structure below the bed. And leaving the bed there to provide the looks. I had already done incremental modifications. I have three-quarter inch plywood in the bed already. The rubber mat. I made new supports for the towers when they were failing. But, it’s time to get serious. A proper welded steel frame won’t be going anywhere.
AdvancedQs 03/26/22 05:32am Truck Campers
RE: Major Problems with Bed of Truck - how to fix?

Update: After very careful examination, what happened is the crossmember supports are made of the same sheet metal the side of the bed is made from. They are flimsy. They are cheap. I can’t believe anyone’s actually stand the test of time. It’s amazing they do. So, they are being replaced by quarter inch steel square tubing. That will prevent this problem from ever happening again. The towers are being replaced by steel plate bent at a 90° angle to hold the weight up there. This will add 128 pounds to the vehicle. I will have to lighten the load a little bit to make up for that. But, this will be indestructible. I’m also putting pieces of old tire in between the frame and these new supports for a softer ride. Now it will be indestructible. for anyone that plans to put high miles on a truck camper, this is probably a good idea. OEM beds are made very cheaply. I’ll post some pictures of the fix once it’s done. I decided not to do this myself because I am just too busy to do this project. So, it’s outsourced to a local fabrication shop. Their first opening is April 12. So, that’s when it will be done.
AdvancedQs 03/26/22 05:31am Truck Campers
RE: Major Problems with Bed of Truck - how to fix?

Do I see a dent in the right fender inside the bed. This makes me wonder if camper is moving side to side in bed. The crown in road would make it hit right side harder. Yes. You do see a dent in that fender. The camper is definitely moving side to side. That fender is not where it should be because the bed is bending. Well, maybe not side to side. It slowly moves over to the passenger side. Due to the crown of the road just like someone had just said. I can go thousands of miles without it moving. But then with just the right combination of bumps and heavy crown on the road, it starts to slide over to the passenger side down the bent part of the bed. Do you understand something no heavier than a bottle jack will dent the front of bed if it can slide back and forth less than a inch? Something as heavy as a camper sliding just a little bit is beating the bed like a pretty big hammer. No matter how you repair it, unless you solve the movement issue, it will not stay fixed. You are way off. I’m sorry. But what you’re talking about has nothing to do with the problem. There is nothing sliding back-and-forth. Your imagination is going in the wrong direction. The thread has convinced me to just do it right and get a flatbed. That way, everything is going to be fixed the right way to transfer the load to the frame without all of this cheap material in between.
AdvancedQs 03/21/22 04:15pm Truck Campers
RE: Major Problems with Bed of Truck - how to fix?

....when you put on that many miles over rough roads. Backcountry dirt roads? or paved roads? Everything. Mostly highway miles like everyone else, but, secondary roads with massive holes in them everywhere, speed bumps, you name it. Lots of things have caused it to take a hit here and there. I’ve also taken it into dispersed camping in the mountains in Colorado. I don’t know if anyone here is familiar with that stuff, but you know how the roads are if you are. Pretty much jeep trails. But never got out of granny gear on that. I was trying not to scrape the axles on the rocks. I think the majority of damage has been from really really rough roads where you are traveling about 40 or 50 miles an hour and it just all goes to hell with huge holes in the road. Those type of roads are the ones that have given the most hits. But either way, I definitely need a much more robust platform to hold this truck camper onto the frame of this truck.
AdvancedQs 03/21/22 02:42pm Truck Campers
RE: Major Problems with Bed of Truck - how to fix?

Replacing the bed isn't hard at all, I replaced the bed on my dually when I first got it since the cross bars underneath had rotted away and the bed was doing like yours with weight on it. I bought my bed from someone with a car lift so removal and install took no time, the longest time was removing the rusted bolts. The "new" bed from Texas with 0 rust is holding up great so far. I’m glad to hear someone else had some of the same issues. At least similar. Yours sounds like it was from rust. mine is from I don’t know what. But I don’t want it to happen again. So I think it’s flatbed. I need to transfer the weight to the frame in a way that doesn’t use cheap sheet metal beams that standard truck beds use. To me, it’s somewhat astonishing to look at what those beams are made out of. It’s a miracle they hold up at all. For anyone.
AdvancedQs 03/21/22 02:35pm Truck Campers
RE: Major Problems with Bed of Truck - how to fix?

THe fact that the camper has shifted to the side and blown out the front side of the truck bed has cause it to not sit correctly on the floor of the truck bed, which is the likely result of why the bed is collapsing. Do you have a rubber truck bed mat to help keep the camper from sliding around in the bed? What kind of camper tiedowns are you using, Torklift frame mounted or something else? What are you using between the camper tiedown anchors and the truck's camper tiedown points - turnbuckles or Torklift fast guns? I've never seen the side of a truck be blow out like yours has. Id say the camper keeps shifting that way and causing the problem. Answering your questions in order. I have a nice sticky rubber mat same exact size as the truck bed. I have Torklift frame mounted tiedowns with fast guns. Properly tensioned. It’s the truck bed giving out that is causing the problem. Not the torik lift products. Also, I’m not sure if everybody else puts on the same amount of miles I do. I put on something like 15,000 miles this summer. Traveling across the country and back. A truck camper moves around when you put on that many miles over rough roads. That’s just how it is. Sometimes it can slide backward. Sometimes it can slide to the side. Mine slides to the side because the truck bed has collapsed. But yeah. I just posted that while you were editing yours. I agree. A new truck bed. I’m just going to get a flatbed. And have it be all the way down at the frame. I’ve had enough messing with this stuff. I’m done. I won’t replace it with a standard truck bed. Not strong enough.
AdvancedQs 03/21/22 02:32pm Truck Campers
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