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 > Your search for posts made by 'Almot' found 40 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Plastic toilet and sink cleaning?

Thank you Grandpopsicle. Sounds like a good inexpensive maintenance tip.
Almot 01/23/20 11:49am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Solar charge current

If I had a big array and one battery, the charge controller would limit the 50+ amps to perhaps 4 amps to the one battery? Max current accepted by battery depends on how deeply it is discharged. Could be a lot more than 4 amps for one 100AH battery - at the beginning. Then current drops as it's nearing the Full. Then it jumps up again when you turn some powerful device On - solar outputs the energy directly into the device. Controller controls volts, differently on different stages of charging. When it controls volts, amps (= charge flowing into battery) are also affected. As long as it doesn't interfere too much with RV aerodynamics, there is no penalty for having a bigger solar than you think you need, but there are often benefits.
Almot 01/19/20 05:46pm Tech Issues
RE: Plastic toilet and sink cleaning?

When I open the blade/shutter, smell from the tank dwarfs any other smell. The only time I notice smell with the blade closed is when I bend down to make a (un)holy cross of toilet paper before #2, if you're familiar with this trick. Vinegar (with baking soda) has its place for sure.
Almot 12/30/19 02:49pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Leaking Bathroom Sink

Need to have a close look at mine, but I "think" there is no putty of any kind used on the P-trap and btw the P-trap and drain pipe that goes to gray tank. Only gaskets and permanently glued joints. There is some goo btw the sink and the counter, and it looks like a silicone caulk from big box store. Probably several varieties would work as there is no permanent water pressure around the sink edge unless you are at the bottom of the sea :).
Almot 12/20/19 10:16pm Tech Issues
Looking for under-cab LED panel - milky shade

Need to replace double-dome light under kitchen cabinet. It's bulky, getting in the way, 1.5" thick with stupid clear/ partially frosted lens that create shadows in the pots and blind me, placed at the eye level. Making a ledge in front to block the light is another solution, but I prefer replacing the light. Requirements: 1) Total 10-12W - this corresponds to ~40W of traditional old double dome. (This is not about energy saving, I already replaced all incandescent with SMD boards). 2) Color temperature 3000K "soft white". 3) Switch - either touch-sensor or a convenient mechanical switch like on the old dome. 4) Completely milky lens - I don't want to see individual bright spots and multiple shadows on the counter. 5) 4"-6" wide by 12"-18" long, if possible. Or, if narrow 1" - then long 20-30", to cover most of the counter. 6) Preferably Amazon. But, if there is something reasonably priced from a store with no free S/H, this will work too. 7) Surface mounted, no pot lights. Cabinet bottom is a solid panel 3/4". This one is more-less what I want - but it's only 8W 400 Lumen, this corresponds to 1.5 "old bulb", not 2, and the price is on the higher end, considering useless to me AC-DC wall wart. Market is full of strips with a separate inline switch/dimmer - I don't need it to dangle under the cabinet and don't need dimmer.
Almot 12/19/19 06:52pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Water filter upstream of the pump?

... a .5 carbon block filter in the kitchen which only feeds a separate faucet at the kitchen sink. This would complicate the layout but I like the idea.
Almot 12/11/19 06:51pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
Water filter upstream of the pump?

Thinking to add a sediment filter (and a proper strainer instead of a tiny strainer that came with my pump). With my plumbing it's easier to install it upstream of the pump: tank -> 50 or 100 micron strainer -> 5 micron sediment filter -> pump. I see most people installing filter downstream of the pump: tank-> strainer -> pump -> filter. Is there any reason not to install the filter upstream, other than risk of pump running dry when filter clogs? Also, what is your experience with <= 0.5 micron block carbon filters after sediment filter - is water pressure still tolerable? Shower is where my pump is definitely struggling. As much as I don't want any cr-ap on my skin and on remaining hair, I have doubts about carbon in this scenario.
Almot 12/11/19 01:32pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Plastic toilet and sink cleaning?

Car polish sounds interesting. Softscrub - could you ask the wife, which one? They have 6 different cleaners - gel, no gel, Oxi, w/bleach, without.
Almot 12/06/19 11:23am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
Plastic toilet and sink cleaning?

At some point filling it with water and dishwasher detergent and gentle rubbing with a sponge doesn't work. Resistant stains in sink after mechanical/painting/lubricating work, stains in toilet accumulate with time too. Scoring pads? Even the most delicate Scotchbrite pad w/foam backing - pink color - is not recommended on Acrylic fixtures. Then there is baking soda with vinegar - TAD works. Barkeepers Friend was recommended by somebody for careful use on Acrylic. Ingredients: LINEAR SODIUM DODECYL BENZENE SULFONATE (DDBSA), OXALIC ACID. Did anybody try the 'Friend, or is there anything else?
Almot 12/06/19 09:59am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Trailer Battery runs down

How big a draw? Exactly.
Almot 09/06/19 06:21pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar and Lifeline

Screw a hobby of just cruising the country doing stuff like hiking and fishing and viewing amazing scenery. My new hobby is battery charging! Nah... Stick to enjoying life. Keep an eye on the morning state of charge, I believe re-settable AH meter costs $25 on Amazon/Ebay.
Almot 05/13/19 02:43pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar and Lifeline

'Wrong batteries for the application'...... just because Lifeline has a detailed charging PDF which says no less than 20% charge current when cycled deeply. As if this is not applicable to other brands of AGM. This particular AGM has low internal resistance, it allows charging currents 500% (!). This is not applicable to many, many other AGM. I don't know whether charging current no less than 20% is more important for longevity of the battery with internal resistance lower than in the other brands, but the OP can't utilize features of this battery in his current setup. He has low loads and low charging current (but not too low if he splits the bank). People buy Lifeline for their boats. I suspect that quality has as much to do with this as 500% max current - they have huge diesels to charge it. One more thing. "Cycled deeply" (when it would require 20% current) in that PDF manual they interpret as 50% or deeper. It's hard to understand how the OP could discharge 440AH bank that deep with his loads from dusk to dawn. $30 AH monitor could shed some light on this. (Edit-Correction: his charging current is still below 20% if he splits the bank, unless his controller can charge 6V).
Almot 05/13/19 02:33pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar and Lifeline

Good programmable and adjustable controller with all 3 stages is of paramount importance. More than a few members here have learned this a hard way. Another "rule" of solar offgrid camping - estimate your solar size according to your needs and increase it by 30-50%. I would have to replace batteries a year ago if it wasn't for oversized (for my particular needs) solar. As it is now, might wait few years more.
Almot 05/13/19 01:22pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar and Lifeline

First of all Almot needs to take a look at the Lifeline manual. This has been addressed on the first few pages of this thread. The OP has got wrong type of AGM for his setup.
Almot 05/13/19 01:13pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar and Lifeline

Almot 05/13/19 01:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar and Lifeline

dp. Forum server is terrible in the last few days.
Almot 05/13/19 01:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar and Lifeline

What about Trojan saying better not to Float the AGMs between trips if going out once a month or more often (leave them disconnected presumably)? "Avoid using continuous float charging on VRLA batteries that are charged more than once/month." Don't know whether there is more context but it is is not clear what they mean by "continuous float charging". Is it float each time after discharging i.e. never bring them to V Abs (obviously a bad idea), or floating between the trips (on which trips it was discharged and then charged to unknown SOC that might as well be past V Abs)? Again, 20% "rule" (that has been the source of pain with the OP Lifeline) doesn't directly come into play here.
Almot 05/13/19 01:06pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar and Lifeline

Demanding that power be 100% solar reminds me of cruising sailboat skipper who demand every inch of the voyage be done under sail. IMO, a hyperbole with little relevance. You can't accumulate wind, not without complicated equipment. Solar energy you can. It boils down to solar harvest (=array size) and consumed energy out. If you keep cycle shallow, you won't need a lot of amps, not very often. For the OP possible solutions would be getting a less demanding battery brand and (maybe) splitting the bank once in a while. With his loads I would try a smaller bank, 300AH.
Almot 05/12/19 11:20pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar and Lifeline

Almot the whole idea is to leave it as long as it takes to get down to the .5/100. So it takes 4 hours on an average-sunny day, from ~7.00 to ~11.00. Might set timer to 4 hours, will see if it helps. Not prepared to disable the timer yet, the very idea of frying the batteries indefinitely at 14.4V doesn't sit well with me. Edit - correction: 4 hours from the beginning of charging to Abs end. Actual time in Abs is ~2 hours to 0.5A/100AH, if there is any sun. When there is no sun... might get a few minutes in Abs, if even that. There is a daily report on screen, with time spent in Abs. Next day it would catch up. Ah, what the heck, will disable the timer :)
Almot 05/12/19 10:52pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar and Lifeline

My 0.5A/100AH or 2 hours timer is what it is set to. Timer can be set to any value from 1 to 240 minutes. I wonder how many people choose to keep AGM at V Abs for more than 180 minutes. When it reads 1.5A on controller at V Abs before switching to V Float, it is 1.5A to battery. If fridge is cycling at that moment, the current is +2A, timer takes the authority and terminates Abs in due time or the fridge shuts down and control reverts to current. Alright, not 1.5A to battery - 1.52A counting the propane detector. I know my system, know what loads are on, there are no gremlins or people to do something without me knowing. I wish my AGM could drop below 0.4A/100AH, but it doesn't do this anymore. What Mex said about AGM being either bad or tolerable is correct, a horrible Chinese cr-ap is what I have.
Almot 05/12/19 06:42pm Tech Issues
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