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RE: Just a thought on truck campers place here
I'm not understanding how you (OP) are seeing a thread from a subforum and not seeing its forum source listing?
I login directly to a subforum (Truck Campers) so only see posts within that forum unless I go looking at other subforums.
If I login to the sites main index page, say to "Newest" I would see all recent posts-but listed is the forum it came from?
Unless your in one of the general subforums where questions asked/answered can be or are not specific to an RV type owner.
"Not to be pompous but most stuff for TC's is of little or not concern to most of the rest of us."
While its awesome there is a self anointed spokesman for the 'rest of us', asking for rose colored glasses sounds like nothing but pompous.
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AnEv942
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10/17/19 07:56am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Thanks for fixing the forum problems.
IF YOU HAVENT YET - TRY CHANGING SETTINGS UNDER YOUR PREFERENCES.
Originally posted by jimh425
https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29979983.cfm.
Click on "My Forums" top left, then click "My Preferences" in the heading bar- address if your logged in..
https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/myforums/subAction/preferences.cfm
Scroll down to "Topics per page" -change to 20
"Posts per page" -change to 10
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
https://i.imgur.com/O8yLgWX.jpg height=816 width=640
Along with whatever the forum fix was this solved the error page 100% (At least it works for me- if I change either of these the error page reappears navigating the forum...
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AnEv942
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10/16/19 07:00pm |
Forum Posting Help and Support
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RE: ERROR MESSAGE
I had applied the 'workaround' https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29979983.cfm prior to reported forum 'fixed ' and it lessend ocurrance of the error.
Then after reported forum 'fix' everything was working 100% so changed my settings back (40 topics/20 post) and the errors came back.
Reapplied the workaround, between it and whatever the forum 'fix' was have no errors.
Also depending on browser settings clearing cache/ history may help
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AnEv942
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10/10/19 08:27am |
Forum Posting Help and Support
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RE: Truck inverter to power camper fridge
What's wrong with running factory inverter at full load?
Though a little confused by Fords 400 watt rating and 300 if running (usuallly peak is X2 of constant load so not sure what they are referring to?. my understanding is rating of inverter should be intended load plus 10-20% above that. If the constant rating is truly 300watts and fridge heater is 325 that would be over its rating-if 400 very close. Whether harmful or affect longevity I dont know, I would assume factory inverters not inexpensive to replace.
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AnEv942
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10/09/19 11:51am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Truck inverter to power camper fridge
Interesting-different operation modes than ours. Can not select AC without going into auto. DC can only be manually selected (wont connect to DC in auto mode if AC or gas unavailable).
https://photos.smugmug.com/Base/Mics/i-W6SGctC/0/e1f18343/O/dometpg1.jpg
Operational pages 9 and 10
https://photos.smugmug.com/Base/Mics/i-dwMk7XH/0/9e3680e5/S/dometpg9-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Base/Mics/i-92Ksksd/0/55509196/S/dometpg10-S.jpg
As this isn't (wasn't) about the morbid fears of electricity or gas, why I/you should do this or that- just options and what I did don't feel a need to justify my decisions..so am not. If info can be gleaned from my original post by someone attempting similar project great, if it convinces them, thats dumb and not do or do differently- great. What I didn't intend was start another 'propane wars' thread.
Just find it curious sometimes folks seem to need to defend thier position /conclusions when it wasn't challenged?
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AnEv942
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10/09/19 11:10am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Truck inverter to power camper fridge
Simply a matter of choice not using gas on the road. Many do-we don't.
Fridge behaves as designed.. To use AC fridge must be set to 'Auto'. What it actually does, being set to auto to use AC, is if AC unavailable (engine/inverter shut off) control tries to connect to gas. If propane off it cant and after a few attempts goes to 'check'. Once in check mode has to be reset. If AC restored before it searches for gas then goes to check it reconnects to AC. But that happens faster than reason for turning off engine IE fueling, eating lunch etc. Turning off 12v to control board when AC turned off keeps fridge from seeking alternate source.
As Kayteg1 asked about- if AC could be manually selected like gas or DC would be no issue.
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AnEv942
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10/08/19 09:10pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Truck inverter to power camper fridge
Work2much: Ya that was kind of my conclusion as far as cabling, plus previous mods led me to this route. If starting from scratch might have done differently. Inverter power to camper is solely dedicated to running fridge. The other factor and real motivation, was simply wanted an inverter in truck.
Kayteg1, there are several options as far as auto switching and was really on the want list. I may revisit, be nice upgrade project if this gets old but probably not. We move plugs inside camper from shore to inverter use, not a real inconvenience. Still would be nice.
Must be someplace between inverter and dash you could tap, add another receptacle, short cord to bed. But again I question using factory inverter, everything Ive read shows 300 watts max while driving. Even IF 400 watts available, at 325 watts of fridge AC heater+, inverter would be running near full load?
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AnEv942
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10/08/19 12:21pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Thanks for fixing the forum problems.
YES Thanks! to whom ever-
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AnEv942
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10/07/19 08:07pm |
Forum Posting Help and Support
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Truck inverter to power camper fridge
Running fridge on AC from trucks inverter...
Not a how-to, certainly not a recommendation- cut every corner I could with a ton of round to-its.
Just what I concluded and installed...may or may not help anyone but another thread caused me to realize
I could run fridge on higher wattage AC if I added inverter, existing wiring would work and control fridge.
Problems- If inverter AC (or other source) not available fridge goes to 'check'. (which requires, on mine, resetting
fridge even if power restored)
As fridge board 'remembers' and will reconnect to last selected source, simply turning off fridge or 12v power to
board and reconnecting when source power to be available will keep fridge from going to 'check'.
Easiest method, when shutting down truck is to run inside camper and shut off fridge. Turn back on when source
power to be restored. Or adding a toggle somewhere outside that is more accessible to turn fridge on/off.
3rd, use relay on fridge main 12v supply, trigger/controlled by truck ignition or manual switch.
As I already have ignition controlled relay set up 10 years ago (been using DC for 20 years) if I added an AC
source I'd have option to run AC or DC, good to go. My ignition trigger goes thru dash switch to enable or disable.
(Note: If using relay, a bypass switch will need to be used when camped or as I did, a selector switch that
determines source of relay trigger wire)
___________________________________________________________
All that out of the way, installing the inverter.
Least expensive I could find-1000 watt modified sine. Expected use ~350 watts. Test with 600 watt heat gun.
Hurdles:
Location of inverter,
Routing inverter AC out to camper
Routing battery cables inside truck to inverter from engine bay
Hardwire camper/Fridge selection of AC sourceLocation:
My only option was behind drivers seat on rear wall. Required making brackets to hang inverter.
https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/ACinvert/i-VvSkWLd/0/6324f25e/O/acinvert15a.jpg
Under window is formed sheet metal box. Only place to attach. Brackets hold inverter out an inch from back wall, with 1/2" gap at top 1/4"
above bottom formed carpet bumpout that brackets set against.
https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/ACinvert/i-kskmhBW/0/c3bcdcb0/O/acinvert19.jpg
Inverter mounted. Already decided I'm mounting a bed receptacle, camper will plug into it. Though temporarily used an extension cord to
plug in fridge. A 14ga cord out from inverter, cut off female end and routed thru existing rubber plug at truck back wall. Cord goes out
under and up between bed walls to make connection at bed receptacle.
Routing inverter AC:
Bed receptacle was a puzzle as most RV AC pre-made stuff is going in wrong direction, truck is hot side. Need Fixed live female on truck,
umbilical the male (can never be made hot). Standard wet location box with an in use cover just too big.
https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/ACinvert/i-Pj2qR5C/0/24fd3f74/O/acinvert1.jpg
Going thru parts found this in use wet location box. Intended for a pole light -perfect just had to trim curved back.
Shallow- weather proof in-use.
https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/ACinvert/i-whHW6JJ/0/09d6c222/O/acinvert5.jpg
I looked all over and could not find another to purchase but for bed mounting ideal. Shear luck.
Routing 4ga battery cables:
https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/ACinvert/i-K5D3SZS/0/461717cd/O/acinvert24.jpg
This hole in floor covered by rubber boot leads to area that's inside double wall floor, boxed. About 6" to left on other side of box is an
identical hole. It allows cable to enter from engine bay, make a relaxed S turn that lets cable lay flat once it enters cab. Located between
clutch and brake and not anywhere near boot movement.
Route around seat and up rear wall to inverter,
https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/ACinvert/i-dB7VTc5/0/5cc6dcb3/O/acinvert25.jpg
Once routed pulled excess into engine bay.
https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/ACinvert/i-ktXwd8n/0/da93b7fd/O/acinvert26.jpg
Once I had cables into cab cut and added inline fuse holders to fix lengths. Plan is to get some loom material, fully cover cables and a
dozen or 2 zip ties. However holding off until I decide how to add lugs to cables and replace fuse holders. These work well, easy to use on
cut cable,no lugs required- but I just don't trust them. Not wanting to pull cables so may pick up crimper. roundtoit.
Inverter mounted, battery cables run, inverter cable run, bed receptacle mounted. Last is to hard wire camper but waited until we returned
from week out to ensure this works before spending energy to wire camper.
https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/ACinvert/i-zSmcDS5/0/edfabf77/O/acinvert9.jpg
Used an extension cord plugged into bed receptacle, draped across front of camper and thru fridge cover.
And it worked!. Surprisingly well, way better than hoped for. We had the fridge remote thermometer inside truck to watch temps...
Hardwire camper/add split receptacle at fridge
https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/ACinvert/i-rTBV5xq/0/0cb63e68/O/acinvert28.jpg
Again, cut off female end of 14ga cord. Drilled hole, installed plastic grommet and pushed cable into camper leaving about 30" outside.
Routed inside across water tank.
https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/ACinvert/i-tHXg8LD/0/4b77eb51/O/acinvert31.jpg
Under floor of slide to existing cable hole of slide that enter seat box. This leads into outside cabinet that is beside refrigerator
https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/ACinvert/i-WLwWX5H/0/88ae61b8/O/acinvert33.jpg
Poked thru to fridge. Removed boxless receptacle, install new box.
https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/ACinvert/i-GzK82bN/0/edde2554/O/acinvert39.jpg
Wired new receptacle as split, 1 source camper the other truck.
Switching AC source will be a matter of plugging into desired source. Our normal would be truck.
Swapped the fridges right angle pigtail for shorter straight plug. Labeled- done.
Well, convert the fridge cover to hinged for easier access...
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29974858.cfm
https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/ACinvert/i-gFNxFCL/0/42bb4bfa/O/acinvert44.jpg
Added power strip for ease of access and other stuff that might be used.
https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/ACinvert/i-H2jmWNQ/0/4674fe05/O/acinvert45.jpg
Had to replace compressor switch in dash. Used drill and heat gun on the wiring. Nice. Also tied the dash inverter remote switch thru
ignition triggered relay to turn off inverter if I forget. Though inverter can be used without engine on by using its case mounted switch
could quickly lead to dead batteries. The fridge is ignition triggered and goes off with ignition so no real load but just extra measure...
https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/ACinvert/i-NTrPTTQ/0/e842674d/O/referinvertb.jpg
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AnEv942
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10/07/19 07:59pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Hinged refrigerator vent grill?
details of inverter install
https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29980442.cfm
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AnEv942
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10/07/19 04:04pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Fix for Error: Topics per page to 20 Posts per page to 10
I’m not positive that this will fix everyone, but it seems logical. I only have a sample size of 1.
1. Login
2. Go to My Forums
3. Go to My Preferences
4. Change topics per page from 40 to 20 and posts per page to 10. Picture below.
5. Scroll to the bottom and click Submit Changes.
Thanks-that actually seemed to improve navigation, linking to topics, different pages or links within the drop down menu, not 100% but lessens the maddening effort of just getting to different pages..., Short of logging out.
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AnEv942
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10/07/19 01:16pm |
Forum Posting Help and Support
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RE: Hinged refrigerator vent grill?
Interesting. Would you share details of your inverter install? I have considered doing the same to power the campers inverter/charger which would not only run the fridge but also charge the campers battery bank.
I installed inverter in truck. We have an 1100 watt inverter in camper I could have used but this allowed justification (approval) to add one to truck which I've always wanted to do.
Plus unsure about delivering needed DC charge from truck if used to power inverter in camper. Almost always easier to run output from a elec. device than needed input.
Think maybe I misread though. If installing/using a truck inverter, possibly plug camper directly via its shore cord, using its converter/distribution to charge & run fridge? Hmm simply hadn't occurred to me. My AC output from truck is hardwired to truck bed-have added separate AC cord from fridge- that's all it runs. But 'could' plug camper AC cord in to bed receptacle...not sure about the amperage or draw of converter. Or at least potential? My inverter is only 1000 watts-
Likely some one has done that- dont think my setup would work- possibly but..
Thinking about it, with fridge on AC/supplied by truck, factory charge line (& in my case +solar, aux charge line) to batteries the converter likely wouldn't be doing anything but passing AC to fridge. I guess the variable would be if camper batteries need charging the load converter would add? Ive never really seen those numbers. wandering...
As to details of my install- Likey have to split this post up due to forum issues with 'service temporarily unavailable...' and Captcha issues...
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AnEv942
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10/05/19 07:21pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Hinged refrigerator vent grill?
I meant to respond to this topic when you posted it, but important vacation chores got in the way.
Well at least priority's are correct :), but lets me know I'm not the only one who came to the conclusion these should be hinged.
Those clips are interesting-be a lot simpler to retro fit than the thumb locks.
We were out about a week and found the fridge running on AC amazing. 1st day out we actually had to turn it down. We have aux DC charge line +solar and easily run the fridge on DC and still charge batteries-I attribute the better cooling due to higher wattage of 325watt verse 215watts of the DC element? But ability to run either is a bonus.
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AnEv942
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10/05/19 05:56pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Hinged refrigerator vent grill?
Done, works pretty well, cover wont be joining the other odd stuff along the side of the road. Easy access
https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/ACinvert/i-nt5z3dr/0/037be84d/O/coverhinge8.jpg width=640 height=480
https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/ACinvert/i-wGPr5zQ/0/3b0c6439/L/coverhinge1-L.jpg width=640 height=480
30" Stainless piano hinge
bag of stainless #6-20 x1/2" self tapping screws (still drilled 7/64" pilot holes)
2 non keyed baggage locks
pack of baggage door catches
https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/ACinvert/i-c96s8D6/0/7195f3f6/O/coverhinge2.jpg width=640 height=480
Hinge was straight forward, cutting to length, enlarging countersink holes for larger #6 screws (threading into plastic).
Did caulk hinge to plastic but more for surface adhesion.
https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/ACinvert/i-vnX9xJk/0/eb39019c/O/coverhinge4.jpg width=640 height=480
The thumb latches a bit fiddly, open twist pin hole to ø5/8" (width of flats) then file top & bottom to diameter of threaded body.
https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/ACinvert/i-hPQHq3t/0/4e7fbb2d/O/coverhinge5.jpg width=640 height=480
Trimmed original twist pin flange, lower lip will act as catch for thumb lock latch arm.
https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/ACinvert/i-QjTTLGW/0/d68dde13/O/coverhinge6.jpg width=640 height=480
https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/ACinvert/i-L3FNMZC/0/03ba9f76/O/coverhinge10.jpg width=640 height=480
Used included offset arm but cut/shortened.
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AnEv942
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10/05/19 12:18pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Adding built in USB ports
I don't know what OP used but similar is Magnadyne WC-USB-B 12V Wall Mount USB shows 1.88 deep. It does not really need to be mounted in a box, protruding thru wall into space would minimize depth of surface box needed, maybe 1 3/8". I'd add a switch, also states standby power use @40ma.
edit: Ha type too slow...
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AnEv942
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10/05/19 09:37am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Adding built in USB ports
Kohldad-Legrand wiremold surface mount boxes would work 1, 1 ⅜ or 1 ¾ " deep- most hardware stores.
https://i.imgur.com/eW382To.jpg width=480
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AnEv942
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10/05/19 08:44am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Talk me out of my new project.
Now let's say I am considering visit to our son 2000 miles away.
Taking truck/camper is going to cost me $1200 in fuel and it will take longer as I drive combo slower for fuel economy, while my wife will not drive 7 tons behemoth.
With Sprinter fuel would cost me $500 and if we stretch it, we can do it in 2 days.
How often would you plan visiting your son in option 1 and then option 2?
28 times option 1 before any savings seen with option 2 given your numbers, to offset the $20000 cost of box truck assuming no other cost to retro fit). 5 1/2 years if you visited 5 times a year. Even more with the van option and refit cost.
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AnEv942
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10/03/19 09:03am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Hinged refrigerator vent grill?
Other than reasons listed added Inverter in truck to run fridge.
So if we end up somewhere with AC (or home) easy access but primarily an excuse to fix so not using screwdriver to open...
https://photos.smugmug.com/AnEv942/ACinvert/i-6JD8wSL/0/0e3ec589/M/acinvert40-M.jpg
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AnEv942
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09/27/19 04:23pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Hinged refrigerator vent grill?
Thanks, looked, the only metal covers I could find still available had the larger radius corners which wouldn't cover existing cutout(dometic 3109350.011) All other links, square corner that would work, led to 404 or no longer available? Further searching might find one but not sure Id use since replacement if needed appears may be a problem, Cost wise about the same as modifying ours.
Ours is on slide and lower cover cant lay flat when swung down, (hits trim) which would be my preference but sooner or later would break.
Just ordered an SST continuous hinge, couple of thumb locks and a catch-see what I can cobble together.
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AnEv942
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09/27/19 02:22pm |
Truck Campers
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Hinged refrigerator vent grill?
Dometic fridge lower vent. Just curious if any one has converted Dometic lower vent cover to hinged. Other than inconvenient twist pin fasteners, setting on the ground to do anything, ours either the frame has expanded or the cover shrank. Top that clips in just barley catches so resorted to drilling and using a screw to ensure it doesn't fall out on the road.
Easiest would be surface mount a piano hinge top, painted shouldn't look to hokey. Thinking maybe someone came up with better idea. Possible trim cover flange so back is flat for cabinet type hinge?
Probably change the twist pins for non keyed baggage closures.
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AnEv942
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09/26/19 08:12pm |
Truck Campers
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