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 > Your search for posts made by 'BFL13' found 1212 matches.

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RE: Rear View Camera - UPDATE-

I don't have a for sure answer on the wifi for a long 5er. I was able to walk about 100ft back from the back window camera and still see myself on the iPad. I was able to go out front of the MH about 20 ft and still got the picture from near 50ft, but off to the side with more MH in the way, not the front window see right through, I lost the signal. However, I got behind the truck with camper on it with the front of the truck to the back quarter of the MH for about 35 ft or so and got the signal. It goes with line of sight but also with barriers in the way what you get. I think at 50 ft it might be spotty, hard to know. Discovered it has a time delay if that matters for a rear view. I could see myself move and stop, and the picture caught up after I stopped. I counted one, two, but before I said two it caught up. I mounted the camera on a piece of wood and can move the piece of wood between RVs. You don't need two of the OEM holders. https://i.imgur.com/4RqP4a4l.jpg]https://i.imgur.com/4RqP4a4l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/hKuMeq8l.jpg]https://i.imgur.com/hKuMeq8l.jpg Following up on this, got tired of swapping the camera back forth so looked for a second camera that would still work with the old iPad Mini which is easy to swap between vehicle rear view mirrors using elastic bands. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/type-s-1080p-app-view-backup-camera-0350726p.html#srp First found the FHD on sale, which worked great with DW's big iPad but the old iPad Mini kept crashing the App. I tried it with my Android phone and discovered I can't get new Apps using Google Play. Looked into that, and found a bunch of stuff you are supposed to do that didn't work for me ( I am a spaz with all this stuff). Too much tech stuff! :( So took the FHD back and got a different camera that is wireless, but has its own monitor. Success! https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/reload-wireless-backup-camera-4-3-in-0354093p.html#srp The Reload camera I now got is more expensive than that FHD (both on sale for now), but I like where you don't have to fiddle with the iPad to restart the picture every time the camera is turned off. This is actually a big thing if you are in a hurry. The Reload monitor just starts showing the picture as soon as you turn the camera on. I have the camera outside on the TC now, wired into the "porch light". Light on means camera is on too. The Reload monitor is way smaller than the iPad Mini up on the rear view mirror with elastic bands, but is plenty big enough for the job. Didn't like the suction cup option. I see in the specs the Reload claims 49 ft vs about 30 for the Hopkins so if true, that would be good in a truck/trailer. The Hopkins is ok for the 28ft Class C for sure and for the TC. AFAIK, the Reload monitor will not pair with the Hopkins so I still need my own device for that monitor job. A note on the delay in picture with wireless processing time. It is no big deal when driving, but it occurs to me that it would be when backing up with a trailer. You need to react when the trailer starts to go off course. It might be awkward if the camera delay is too much. Haven't tried that yet.
BFL13 07/26/21 04:16pm Tech Issues
RE: can this possibly be true? 150 amp hours $46.51 cdn

PT thanks for the update. So is the RV stuck in the States? I just did a major job on the roof of our C and had all the solar off to do that. Only put back the 275w panel, so have three 100w panels doing nothing for now--don't need them on the TC. 275w is enough for what we do nowadays. (Yes, you can have too much solar! :) ) Hope it all works out for your situation eventually. Agree that Covid problems are not over by a long shot so "stay safe" still applies. Be good if we can get back to "normal".
BFL13 07/25/21 10:48am Tech Issues
RE: can this possibly be true? 150 amp hours $46.51 cdn

PT, why are you still looking at LFPs? You are supposed to be getting a bunch of SiO2s last heard. I see Azimuth still has 37 of the 50 they got before Xmas, and no drop in price. Noted where you said there is a deal on getting 50. Hmmmm. Shelf life happening! We don't even know if you have your RV back home yet. Are you in fact going to join the Rv Down South and get LFPs for it? What is really going on? We deserve to know! Bated breath of the multitude wanting answers. :)
BFL13 07/24/21 06:42pm Tech Issues
RE: Air Pump to Cat 1991 Ford 460 Question

If it's running good I wouldn't be too inclined to mess with it much as long as you don't have emission testing or inspections. It's pre-OBD2 so taking it to an auto parts store for a free code reading won't help. Checking the code involves some combination of jumping terminals and counting flashes- do some research on the internet on how to do this or get your hands on a repair manual. Thanks, took your advice and went to Google and found a whole bunch of info on this, so now I have a better idea what could be happening and what I should do about it.
BFL13 07/21/21 10:02am Class C Motorhomes
Air Pump to Cat 1991 Ford 460 Question

Couple years ago, plugged cat removed and replaced with pipe. Garage suggested remove the air pump as well. I said leave it in, thinking if I had to put a real cat back in, but fairly clueless on the topic. Anyway it's still there. Now I am getting the engine light after driving at highway speed for about two hours and then slow down. If I turn off the ignition and restart the light does not come back on. I gather this light is to do with air emissions, and there is an oxygen sensor involved. Is that associated with the air pump to the cat? Should I have that air pump removed and maybe the oxygen sensor with it, (if it is with it) or does it matter? Seems like everything is running well since the cat was removed so I am not sure if I need to worry about all this or not. Thanks in advance!
BFL13 07/20/21 12:13pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Coverter/ GFCI problems

So at the campground no problems. Not a GFCI at pedestal. So it happens at home with a GFCI plug-in at stick house. Assuming the GFCIs that trip in the OP are stick-house? Usually it is an adapter in the shore power cable string of cables from the RV. Or the converter could be sharing its 120v CB with some 120 receptacles where one might have something plugged in that is tripping the house GFCI. Not the converter. You don't know if it is the converter (under warranty) The outside 120v plug in can get wet while washing the RV too. IMO live with it by using only non-GFCI plug-ins until it is convenient to get them to do the warranty work. Not to lose any camping time waiting for them
BFL13 07/19/21 06:01pm Tech Issues
RE: Leak

Eternabond there on our old C. and on the rear cap too up there. You can overlap Eternabond to make it wider. Also your clearance lights front and back can leak which can be confusing as to where the water is getting in
BFL13 07/16/21 02:09pm Tech Issues
RE: 100 amp @ 12 volts charge controller.

I like my Tracer MPPT and also liked my EPSolar PWM in a previous set-up. I see the newer panels have 12 busbars for higher efficiency, eg http://www.wegosolar.com/products.php?product=QCELL-350-Q.PEAK-DUO-BLK%252dG6%252b-350-Watt-Solar-Panel-BLK%7B47%7DBLK%7B47%7DBLK
BFL13 07/15/21 07:20am Tech Issues
RE: Inverter problems-a bit long

That does not explain the 15.5v you saw.
BFL13 07/14/21 09:30am Tech Issues
RE: lifepo4 and maxxfan

Whatever I posted earlier in this thread could be me mixing up MaxxAir with Fantastic Fans! Do Fantastic Fans have the voltage issue
BFL13 07/14/21 09:25am Tech Issues
RE: Inverter problems-a bit long

The inverter will have a high voltage shut off near 15v. 15.5v is over the fridge DC input limit of 15.4 so don't turn on the fridge. solar can go over the high voltage setting if something fries in the controller or if the controller is by-passed. Sometimes a converter will have a broken component and go over-voltage.
BFL13 07/13/21 05:23pm Tech Issues
RE: WFCO Output Terminals -How??

Thanks PT. This is for a deck mount so this video has it. It needs an Allen, which is the trick :( Can't see down the covering slots. Also he shows the fan needing air flow room, which this one does not have, so I will move it over some. It would help if I were an ambidextrous midget that can see in the dark too, but you can't have everything! https://wfcoelectronics.com/installation-video-for-wfco-wf-9855-deck-mount-converter/
BFL13 07/13/21 04:16pm Tech Issues
WFCO Output Terminals -How??

Working on a friend's RV and can't see how to get the 8955 wires out/in. What tool or what is the trick? :( Thanks!
BFL13 07/13/21 03:13pm Tech Issues
RE: Samlex Inverter Power Draw Question

https://samlexamerica.com/products/3000-watt-pure-sine-wave-inverter-pst-3000-12/ I see it does have 20R.
BFL13 07/11/21 12:37pm Tech Issues
RE: Samlex Inverter Power Draw Question

Not clear on the 20 amp plug needs for that MW. I have a 2000w with 15 amp plugs-ins and run the MW pulling about 125 amps no problem (four GC2s) A 3000w inverter I have does not have 20 amp plug-ins. It has three 15s and you can do 2000 from any one of them, but to get 3000 you have to plug something else into a second receptacle. Inverters are tricky that way. They are not all the same for how they do that either.
BFL13 07/11/21 10:58am Tech Issues
RE: Samlex Inverter Power Draw Question

Your 9160L converter will keep the whole Rv at 14.6 when on shore power. the battery voltage will drop to its voltage that goes with being full once the converter is disconnected That is 13.6ish for an LFP. The monitor does not know how long you plan to run the MW so it is playing catch-up the whole time for time remaining, so you see that fast drop in time remaining the longer you run the MW. Seems like it is all behaving as it should. If you intend to be on shore power very long, you might consider shutting off the converter and only use it to recharge the battery as required. LFPs don't like to be on that 14.6 float for long periods. You still want 12v in the rig. You can use the battery for that or else get a second converter that floats at 13.6 and just use the 9160L when you need to bring the LFP to full. PD has a newer version of that converter that has a 13.6v float stage for LFPs. You can run the MW in bursts so your battery does not hit bottom all in one go. Some recovery between bursts is good.
BFL13 07/07/21 08:27pm Tech Issues
RE: Samlex Inverter Power Draw Question

It shows that your battery bank (as entered in AH for capacity at the 20hr rate) will only last half an hour at 124 amps draw. After the MW has run its five minutes or whatever. the battery bank will bounce back quite a ways and still give you lots of time at ordinary amp loads like 10 amps for the furnace and a light. Your idea of battery voltages seems muddled. Your converter is set at 14.6 but the battery will take time to reach that voltage (Bulk Stage) then it is still not full. Now it stays at 14.6 with amps tapering until the battery is full. Now you drop that voltage to 13.6 for floating.
BFL13 07/07/21 07:55pm Tech Issues
RE: Watts needed

I blame it all on the Watts! They hide what is really going on with Volts and Amps. When it says Watts or Power, beware! :)
BFL13 07/07/21 07:33pm Tech Issues
RE: Watts needed

Just from being flat you would lose more than 6 watts out of 720. Then add heat loss. Heat loss might be a bit less with panels flat (not sun direct) so pretend you lose 5% instead of 10% 5% of 720 is 36 watts. Say 5% from being flat in June in Arizona for another 36 watts. panel output now 720 - 72 = 648w. If panels were 720 out and wiring loss is 2%, 2% of 720 is 14.4 watts. It just doesn't work out right. That 714 must be from something else. Whatever, your set-up is working. Not so sure about the readings for what is measuring what though.
BFL13 07/07/21 06:50pm Tech Issues
RE: Watts needed

Almost there? The Victron showed 923w output? But that has only 720w of panels. Where was that 714 watts at? Controller output goes to load and remainder to battery. Any load is included in the controllers' output. Can we get the output of the Victron only and compare that with the 720? I don't believe it can be 714 out of 720. No way. See the voltage loss co-efficient per degree of C temp above 25C on your panel specs. Usually panel is about 20-25C above 25c ambient (50C when ambient is 25C is worth about a 10% loss in watts due to lower voltage--amps stay up despite the heat-even go a bit higher)
BFL13 07/07/21 05:31pm Tech Issues
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