| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: Powermax 75 amp converter/charger
13 amps is fine if you have 14.68 volts. This is why I recommend a smaller PowerMax with just two batteries. 35 amp would be fine.
That's if you don't mind another hour of gen time to do a 50-90 per my ugly graph above. And if the campground gen hours let you. Of course on shore power you don't care about the time it takes.
Then there is the dreaded 20% charging rate in Bulk for AGMs so a 35 amper being 20% means the bank is 175AH or less. The OP does not have AGMs though.
I did find that low and slow was how to recharge Marine/RV batts to true full, which don't like a high charging rate. But you have to maintain the low amps and keep charging till they reach 16v. Now the hydrometer says you are there and can drop to float. No wonder people have poor luck with those things using a 14.4v converter :(
|
BFL13
|
07/04/20 05:34pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Powermax 75 amp converter/charger
Good that it is 14.68 :) so see my note above re the 13 amps.
You can run more 12v loads as a test. If the battery is still accepting 13 amps on the battery monitor, and those loads are running ok, then the converter must be putting out more than 13 amps which the loads are using.
|
BFL13
|
07/04/20 02:09pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Powermax 75 amp converter/charger
The unit is rated to lowest voltage at 13v, so the OP at 12.68 is odd.
Another thing to check is that the input voltage is above 105v loaded voltage to get the best results.
You can see lower amps than what the converter is putting out if there is another load on. EG, my 75 amper will show 75 amps to the battery on Trimetric monitor and when the furnace comes on that shows now as 68 amps on the Trimetric. The furnace gets the first 7 amps, leaving 68 for the battery. When the furnace cycles off, the Tri shows 75 amps again.
EDIT--you set the converter to 14.8 and when charging it will show less than that at first, but gradually rise to 14.8 . You will not see 14.8 until the batteries are full and no amps flowing. the amps make the voltage drop until then.
The 14.8 is for 25C/77F so if it is colder out, set that voltage higher or if hotter out, set it lower. there are temp comp tables for that. EG at 35F set it to 15.2 in order to be equivalent to 14.8 at 77F.
If amps are only 13 amps and tapering from there, it could mean the batteries were higher in charge than you thought at first. But then their voltage would have been higher. You need an hydrometer to get the truth here. Always believe the hydrometer if the voltage doesn't match. Then find out what's making the voltage funny.
|
BFL13
|
07/04/20 01:55pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Powermax 75 amp converter/charger
Your 75 amps on 225AH will look a lot like this graph at 70.
You are starting at 12.38 which is 70% SOC as mentioned. So if the charger is set to 14.6 and doing 75 amps, you are already past the Bulk stage and amps will be tapering from the start.
https://i.imgur.com/q9vKy4al.jpg]https://i.imgur.com/q9vKy4al.jpg
I am not sure if the voltage will stay at 14.6 for the 30 minutes in "three-stage mode" even if you are already past the Bulk stage, but i think so. It will then drop to 13.6.
If you are in single stage at 14.6 it will stay at 14.6 the whole way, which is what you want until the batts are full (as seen by an hydrometer reading) Then you can adjust back to 13.6 manually for the float stage. Or leave it at 14.6 and you can safely move the other switch to the left for 3-stage and it will do 13.6. See para 10.
I suspect you may have put the unit in three-stage and then turned the pot. Big no-no. That screws up all three voltages in the 3-stage mode. You can fix that by starting over in single stage, set 14.6 and now switch to 3-stage like it says in para 10
You should have set it to 14.8 anyway since these are Trojans. :)
|
BFL13
|
07/04/20 01:26pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Powermax 75 amp converter/charger
What have you done with the switch and the pot exactly? It sounds like the settings are not right.
Confirm the settings by having no wires in the output terminals except your voltmeter leads. You need a small screwdriver and a flashlight to operate the controls and see what you are doing.
Para 10 here explains it. (You should have received a copy of this in the package)
https://powermaxconverters.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/PM3-12V-LK-Manual-2018.pdf
|
BFL13
|
07/04/20 01:03pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Attwod water heater issue
Here is how I bench-tested mine.
https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/30086924/srt/pa/pging/1/page/2.cfm
On page 1 of that is a photo where it shows my clamp to cover more of the air holes where the slider did not move far enough because of its screw holder.
I was getting too much air. If you get it just right the flame looks better and it sounds better--not so noisy.
In a previous episode, the whole burner was rusty and the little flame spreader cap broke off, which made the flame look bad. I got a new burner as seen in that photo. (amazon has them) The OP here says his burner is ok though.
|
BFL13
|
07/04/20 10:02am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Black Tank Roof Vent and Bathroom Roof Vent Too Close?
I now see that the grey drains do not go into the black tank at all, so the black is all on its own. Not sure how the sinks and shower drains are vented. Double kitchen sink so that might be it for there if you don't plug both. Bathroom shower could vent via bathroom sink not plugged. No air admittance valves anywhere in the pipes past the Ptraps. (1991 RV)
Good idea for a shower drain plug. You have to stand in the shower pan while at the bathroom sink. This is not a 5er! :)
Got the drains all cleaned out so have to do a smell test later. The black tank is all cleaned out too so be a while before any tests.
I have to rig a second tank under the TC overhang behind the truck bumper to be the grey tank. I did that before with our previous TC. Fairly simple job where it can be hanged from above and supported below with a towing piece in the receiver with a plank over to the side attached using the hole where the ball normally goes. Just have a short hose that goes from the sani-cap down to the grey tank. A tap to dump it if it doesn't have one.
A plastic bigger gasoline can works for that if on it side. Its pouring hole on top to take the grey filling hose, and leave its vent screw- on cap at the bottom to be unscrewed as the drain. Good enough for sinks, but not big enough for shower of course.
|
BFL13
|
07/03/20 11:29am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Black Tank Roof Vent and Bathroom Roof Vent Too Close?
deleted.
|
BFL13
|
07/03/20 09:00am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Black Tank Roof Vent and Bathroom Roof Vent Too Close?
Thanks for the ideas. I am working on confirming the source of the whiff, which will take a few days. I have closed the roof vent and cleaning the drains more to see if there is any whiff after that, then if not, I will open the roof vent and see if any then to confirm my original suspicion.
The whiff is definitely black not grey when you can smell anything at all. The tank vent on the roof has the usual rain cap. The bottom of the vent at the top of the tank is visible and sealed, so it is not there. None of the grey drains has an air admittance valve, but that may not matter if there is no smell with the roof vent closed. I will know about that later.
It will all get solved after a while. There is no rush, and thanks to all for things to check.
|
BFL13
|
07/02/20 06:39pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Black Tank Roof Vent and Bathroom Roof Vent Too Close?
"I think the vents open pointing aft so the lid won't blow off if you leave it open a bit while driving. With the vent hood on, that lid should be safe from blowing off."
If the vent lid is open when driving
You will have a ram air scoop into the bathroom
True. So closed while driving even with vent hood. It could go on sideways as was mentioned. I could make the tank vent a little taller too a bit higher than the vent hood.
It is not that bad so an Air Wick or whatever they are called would probably do it too. I will do some more work on the drains etc and see how it goes. Meanwhile they finally are opening the campground we like to use in the summer with the Class C, so there's that! :)
|
BFL13
|
07/01/20 12:53pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Question: Truck Battery Bank for Shore Power
Probably in all those adapters. You should be able to just put a 30/15 on the shore cord and plug that into the inverter. As it is, perhaps the 2000w has a protection that the 800 does not have, explaining the differt results.
|
BFL13
|
07/01/20 11:18am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Old fresh water tank spout replacement help
These are helpful for that kind of problem. Going from good part of old pipe to new pipe for the spout end.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Fernco-2-in-x-2-in-x-2-in-x-2-in-dia-x-3-1-2-in-L-Flexible-Repair-Coupling-PVC-Fitting/1002464040
|
BFL13
|
07/01/20 10:25am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Black Tank Roof Vent and Bathroom Roof Vent Too Close?
Opening, high end of the vent hood should face toward the rear. We leave our vent lids open a couple inches to get natural ventilation. This reduces or eliminates negative pressure inside the rig that can suck fumes of many types in.
You are right that the opening should be to the rear so the vent lid can be raised. But that is right where the tank roof vent is. If I go all new maybe I can put it in backwards so the opening is forward. Not the right way for vortex and all that, as mentioned. Hmmmm.
I think the vents open pointing aft so the lid won't blow off if you leave it open a bit while driving. With the vent hood on, that lid should be safe from blowing off.
Good point about the sink. There is no grey water tank in the TC, it shares with the black when not on hook ups. (No hook-ups you can simply have the grey pour into a bucket and put a lid on that to dump the bucket somewhere later, if not suitable to let it drain out with a hose off to the side.)
There is also a shower drain in the floor in front of the toilet. The TC has a sort of "wet bathroom".
We don't use the blue stuff, which smells bad IMO. We just use soap down the toilet and that works in our other Rvs no problem. Just have to get this one in shape too.
Good ideas, thanks.
|
BFL13
|
06/30/20 09:52pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Black Tank Roof Vent and Bathroom Roof Vent Too Close?
The vent hood could help, thanks. Not one there now. The hood opening facing forward is away from the tank vent in back. The vent now does not have a fan, which is unusual, but there is a bathroom window that opens. I guess the idea to clear the air is open the window and the roof vent. Kind of silly in February!
I will get the whole deal new with the fan and the vent hood next project. BTDT with a previous RV. I can steal 12v for the fan from the ceiling lamp.
|
BFL13
|
06/30/20 08:46pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
Black Tank Roof Vent and Bathroom Roof Vent Too Close?
In the TC (see sig) there can be a whiff of tank smell that apparently comes from the open roof vent by way of the tank vent nearby, but not positive that is the source. It is not coming from the toilet or from where the toilet is sealed to the flange, which has been renewed.
Is there a trick to this, like make the tank vent higher or a different sort of cap on it? Of course we can keep the bathroom roof vent closed except when necessary, but like it open in hot summer weather.
Thanks.
|
BFL13
|
06/30/20 08:09pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Missing Running Lights
Having the same problem with the old camper we just got. I found the problem so maybe same thing with yours.
The positive wire(s) in the camper clearance lights are connected to the tail light wires. The clearance lights get their negatives from the metal skin of the camper.
The lights all need the positives to have 12v and they are in a string so if one has a break in the positive it can stop the others from working. But each light has its own ground from the skin. So if one has no ground the others can still work ok
The ground is by a metal screw with the thread into the skin and the head touching a metal plate by the bulb. Scrape that plate so the screw head has good contact and use a new screw that is not corroded.
If the screw goes into a corroded hole in the skin, move the whole light over a bit so it gets new contact hole with the skin for ground.
On the positive wires, I found part of it would not work and no way to see why inside the skin up there, so I went outside with a new wire from a working light's positive to the positive wire of the string that didn't work and that got 12v to them. So all now work as one string.
OK, what if your skin is not the ground for all the clearance lights, but has individual ground wires? Then I suppose you can do the same thing if there is part that does not work. Run a new wire from a good ground to the neg side of any light that has no ground.
Any by-passing wires on the outside of the camper get covered with white Gorilla tape so it is not so ugly. :)
BTW--I blew the 15a fuse in the truck that is marked for "trailer park" a few times until I smartened up and turned the truck lights out while working on the camper lamps. Also the truck lamps turned off by themselves after a time, so I had to keep turning them back on. Lots of going up and down the ladder for your fitness work-out!
|
BFL13
|
06/30/20 01:56pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Shore Power 12V to vehicle
Your Ford does not seem to have the relay that only lets power to the trailer plug when the ignition is on. Chevs are like that, but they have a fuse you can pull.
If your truck does not have a fuse like that, then you could snip the power wire that goes into the camper's plug (pin #4) which will mean no alternator charging, but no connection between camper "house" 12v when parked. The camper tail lights etc would still work.
Or perhaps you could put one of those relays in the Ford like newer Fords have if yours doesn't have one.
|
BFL13
|
06/30/20 12:04pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Question: Truck Battery Bank for Shore Power
So it is not a low voltage alarm, but one of the other "protections" shutting it down. Might be in the manual what protection it is that makes the inverter do all that as its signal.
It is annoying when the inverter does not have a display that shows a code for which fault it is not liking. Leaves you with trial and error for trouble shooting.
|
BFL13
|
06/30/20 09:49am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: 2008 Silverado door locks
Our 2003 LT Chev truck has some of that. You go through the menu pushing buttons and all these choices come up for each thing like leave the lights on for a time after you park, etc.
If the door lock choice you want isn't there when you get to that part and have to pick something, it isn't there.
You can find what the truck came with by all those codes on the label in the glove box
|
BFL13
|
06/30/20 09:39am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Question: Truck Battery Bank for Shore Power
Want does "works" mean? You are getting low voltage alarm and shut down with the 2000w but not with the 800w.
Are you trying the 2000w with a big load like the water heater on electric, but not when using the 800w? Does the 2000w "work" with the same load as the 800w?
If all it is that makes the 2000w not "work" is a big load, you can reduce the voltage drop so it stays above 11v under load, by using fatter wire between inverter and battery bank, balancing the bank better with no "downstream batteries", and making sure the batteries are well charged up (needs an hydrometer for that to be sure)
BTW that red plug above is not supposed to be used in the Code ISTR.
|
BFL13
|
06/30/20 09:29am |
Tech Issues
|
