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RE: Lithium Batteries

Don't have a link, but just an "ISTR" on alternator charging where the issue was, when you added fatter wire etc so you got more charging amps, and ran the fridge etc, that this would be more amps for longer than the alternator could take and it would heat up and die. It might be bogus for all I know for sure. There is something about the alternators in police cars being able to take more than the ones in regular cars. I ASSume the ones in MHs are regular types. Although in a Class C, which is made from an "incomplete truck" that could have been made into an ambulance instead, maybe it would have the stronger type of alternator. Here we have a worry that the Li batts might be harmed (can't say--seems situational?) and that the alternator might be harmed from too many amps (Li being low R etc, and the fridge on) so somebody who knows about all this should step in and clear it all up.
BFL13 09/18/20 12:04pm Tech Issues
RE: Lithium Batteries

She wants to keep the charging to 50 amps each so 100a for the two. Meanwhile there have been posts that the alternator will fry from trying to charge the thirsty Li house batts. Sounds like the way to go is disconnect/disable alternator charging and just leave in the Aux start from the house feature if ever needed.
BFL13 09/17/20 05:47pm Tech Issues
RE: Is there a correct battery voltage chart?

I had two different AGMs, one an 8D and another was a 27. Both had similar charts for Voc vs SOC. A fairly wide band as seen here (scroll down and to the right) http://www.wegosolar.com/products.php?product=SKR%252d125AGM-Stark-AGM-12V-Solar-Battery-Sealed-125A It turned out with my AGMs, that 12.4v was about 50% as confirmed with Trimetric AH counter. They rested full (after the 0.5a/100AH target and a few days later) at 13.0V So my AGMs were in the middle of that band on that graph, but I had to learn that using the Trimetric. No other way to tell. My flooded 6s and 27s are more like the Trojan graph, also confirmed by Trimetric. So it was easy for me, just add 0.3 to the Flooded voltages to get the AGM voltages for estimating. I found it took a couple of days for the surface charge to go away after a recharge so the Flooded batts were 12.7ish. You can knock the surface charge off in a hurry if you want, but then it is hard to know if you overdid it, so your resting voltage after that could be too low.
BFL13 09/17/20 09:51am Tech Issues
RE: Check fuse in Ford Power Distribution Box

If it all worked with the toad battery dead, it should work with it disconnected for going home. However, it may be that there are wires that meet on the toad's battery posts that need to be connected for it all to work, even if the battery is dead. You can beat that by disconnecting the battery, but connect the wires that go on each of its two posts together with two vice grips or some way (nut and bolt), so there is still a pos and a neg "path" for what's needed. No need to drain the new battery if you do that. ?
BFL13 09/15/20 08:41pm Tech Issues
RE: Check fuse in Ford Power Distribution Box

I would try it out with the toad's battery disconnected and see if the signal lights etc work. If so, I would just drive it home that way, where the MH brakes will stop the whole set, if not too crazy a situation. ISTR towing a car you turn the key to part way on or something so it is in Neutral? That might drain the battery. Not a clue, sorry.
BFL13 09/15/20 08:13pm Tech Issues
RE: Check fuse in Ford Power Distribution Box

I have not towed a toad, so pardon my ignorance. But this all seems really strange. 1. Why would the toad's battery be needed for anything and go flat after two days ? 2. The brake controller when towing a trailer does not use the trailer's battery. What is the story with your MH and toad? 3. The trailer's lights get power from the towing vehicle via the 7-pin. Not the same with a MH and toad? So what is the story here? (curious in case I get a toad) Anyway, even if you do find and replace the fuse, and that was the problem, so what? You need to know what blew it. Is your "installer" to be trusted????
BFL13 09/15/20 07:35pm Tech Issues
RE: Atwood water heater won't stay on.

It is acting as though the water is hot and then after 10-15 min it thinks the water needs heating again to keep it hot. Must be a thermostat issue?
BFL13 09/15/20 01:30pm Tech Issues
RE: Deep cycle battery maintenance

If you do get to where the water is low but plates still covered and do a really big refill, how long before the SG ever comes out right again? Say you don't do a deep cycle but just a few hours of high voltage--which doesn't do much for the SG, then go on a 13.8v float. Days, weeks? Or do you have to do a deep cycle or two?
BFL13 09/15/20 10:03am Tech Issues
RE: Atwood water heater won't stay on.

My gas only Atwood red light comes on first then goes out when the flame catches (you can hear that) and stays out When I was having troubles getting it to light, the red light stayed on or would come back on after going out. If the OP answers my earlier questions, that might help.
BFL13 09/14/20 11:12am Tech Issues
RE: 15.2 v during solar equalization charge - what do you do?

Norcold (and maybe Dometic) fridges have a high voltage limit of 15.4v, so 15.5v is over that (especially if temperature compensated even higher when it is cold out) Yes, as others said, turn it off. Use it only as needed and when you have separated the batts from the rest of the system.
BFL13 09/13/20 07:47pm Tech Issues
RE: Atwood water heater won't stay on.

I have had lots of WH problems, solved by help here. Nevertheless, I am having trouble following this thread to be able to suggest anything useful. 1. Is the red light, the red light inside the RV that always comes on as soon as you turn on the WH (with gas) and then goes out when the flame starts? 2. When it runs for a few minutes, does that red light go out at first as it should, but comes back on when the furnace quits? 3. After the 10 minutes or so when it comes back on, does the red light go out again? 4. After that, how long does it run? 5. If it has water in it, then the real question is whether that water is already hot from being on electric mode prior. That would perhaps explain why it goes out for 10-15 minutes, giving it time to cool again before it cycles. Not sure about that---the water will stay hot a long time unless it gets used and replaced with cold water refill Just very confusing (but I am easily confused so no worries :) )
BFL13 09/13/20 06:33pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery observations

I was thinking after 13 years these batteries lost a lot of capacity and figured I would have to use the genset to recharge during the week, (as) I only dry camp. I don't watch TV, no internet or cell phone service where we camp so just lights, WP, refer and WH usage. ...but the 5 hr drive home seemed to fully charge the batteries. They likely NEVER got fully recharged. You should put them back on your smart charger and get them as close as possible to 100%. They are still holding at 12.6 v after a week with no charger. I don't think the "smart charger" fully charges them. I notice I get a few more days of dry camping when I use the Magnatech charger to float the batteries for a few days before camping after the B&D says FUL. Also I think my 180 amp alternator pumps more amps in after my B&D says FUL. I don't know if anyone else has noticed this about their smart chargers? The Vector/B&D chargers get them to about 97% SOC and say FUL. Their manual says you then set it to the low amp setting (2 or 4 depending on model) and run it again till it says FUL. Now you will be closer to true full. Of course you can tell with your hydrometer what the truth is. With my 6s (same with 12v 27s) and the VEC1093DBD I just set it to the 4amp and push Equalize (flashing green light). It brings them to what would be FUL at 14.8, then it switches by itself to Equalize at 15.7 and does that till it says FUL. Hydrometer shows that they are now actually full. Love my 1093! :) Best thing is you can leave it to do all that overnight by itself and check the SG in the morning. You don't have to be there keeping an eye on progress.
BFL13 09/12/20 09:46pm Tech Issues
RE: Freedom Remote Control Panel

On shore power you should have the charger part enabled and 12v for those things that need that. No shore power, now you are on battery for all 12v including for the inverter. So is there some disconnect so you are not on inverter at all with no shore power? Or is it just the remote that doesn't work, but you are still getting 120v from the inverter to run 120v things and 12v from battery to run those other things?
BFL13 09/12/20 06:20pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery observations

The "pulse" desulphation (frequency of, that broke down the sulphate) was pretty much found to be bogus 10 or 15 years ago. Suprised people still doing that. Vector/B&D had that mode back then and I used to do it. Turned out not to be any use. However the last set of chargers before they went tits up also had an Equalize mode which used high voltage. That does work, and I still use that with mine (VEC1093DBD). You can also use that method with a PowerMax LK model or with some other chargers, inverter/chargers, and solar controllers. On floating 6s, there was a school of thoght back then that 6s should not be floated. Xantrex had a choice in their converter to make the 3rd stage optional for that reason. The OP may have discovered that was valid- not enough evidence to confirm. It was to do with high SG electrolyte vs low SG and the purpose of the battery for deep cycling (high SG) or for "stand by" use (low SG) On Mex's advice re short gen times, 50-80s, and high amp charging , I am still with the program! :)
BFL13 09/12/20 06:08pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery to RV wiring identification

You came to the right place :) Your slide can have its own pos wire with its neg to the frame, so two pos wires to the battery (plus a third wire for the breakaway) Photos: http://photoposting.is-great.net/?i=2
BFL13 09/11/20 07:12pm Tech Issues
RE: Charger converter??

You could just cancel the order with Randy since he is being a nuisance for some reason ( he is not always) I had a 6300 and replaced it with a simple PowerMax deck mount. (Randy's Boondockers come from PowerMax) You do need to jumper the two pos lugs on the 6300's fuse panel so both sides now work from the single pos wire from the new converter---no big deal) You were happy with $200? Check this out. https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/products/powermax-pm3-45lk-45-amp-12-volt-power-supply-with-led-light Good price and it also has an adjustable voltage mode so you can do 16.2v equalizing if need be (per Trojan specs), plus leave it in 3 stage mode for normal times.
BFL13 09/11/20 06:41pm Truck Campers
RE: Charger converter??

Just talked to randy. He recommended the magnetek 8300 45tcru. So i ordered that. Thanks for the replies.` IIRC that unit has a Parallax 44xx TC in it, which is single stage (useless) without the separate TC gizmo that you add to it. So call back and make sure you are getting that gizmo! I had a 4455TC years ago and the gizmo that you need to make it do anything useful, so I remember that. It has a long wire wth a ring terminal on a temp sensor that goes onto the battery post. The trick is to find a route for that wire from the converter location to the battery. Can be a problem! You could avoid all that by just telling Randy to send you a Boondocker instead and save about $50. :(
BFL13 09/11/20 06:22pm Truck Campers
RE: water damaged floor, Need guidance...

Hey all, due to a water damaged floor I need to clear out the bedroom of floor to ceiling furniture and ultimately the carpeting. I'm hitting a brick wall in that I don't see how monaco has fastened the furniture to the floor, walls or the ceiling. Has anyone ever had to do this and if so how do I get the cabinets and end tables disconnected ? this is a 1990 Monaco 40ft diesel. fwiw. thanks I agree with keeping the 1990 you like (note we have a 1991) :) What is the reason to worry about above the floor to have to remove furniture? Are the walls soaked too? In a friend's TT I repaired, the soaked, sagging floor (water from a broken WH tank at floor level and a broken water pipe from freezing, also at floor level), I just cut it all away in the open areas, put new 2x4 wood beams underneath into the L frames below (too few metal beams) and new flooring. It was a big job for a DIY, but as mentioned above, you can do it in sections. The whole kitchen counters etc stayed in place and I got at underneath them as required (not much--the damage was mostly in the open areas). Without knowing the details in your case, I would first just cut out some floor and see what it is really all about. Then get "creative".
BFL13 09/11/20 05:55pm Tech Issues
RE: 24 ft ClassC MH downsides

I checked mine for that 32% idea. I thought to use when the truck or MH is at GVWR and also at RGAWR so the front is as light as it is allowed to be, what do you get? 1991 Ford MH - 30%, 2003 Chev truck--34% I did it with actual scaled weights for the MH when we are over the rear rating and GVWR and got 29%. Actual Chev truck with camper, truck just under GVWR and under axle ratings-40% Actual Chev truck with 5er we had (under all ratings) - 41% Handling the MH does feel different where there seems to be more "play" in steering than in the truck or cars. It goes straight hands off, but the steering seems "loose" or however to describe it. Just have to get used to it. Can't say I like it that way. If course the MH is a dually and the truck not, so the idea of having 1/3 up front and six tires does not work with the truck and four tires. the weights are unequal front and back but so are the psi on the LT tires so it all comes out ok for tire weightings.
BFL13 09/11/20 10:39am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C Specifications

Curious about using the door sticker with Class Cs. I don't know how it works with newer Cs, but our 1991 is an RV built on what Ford called an "incomplete truck". ( It could have been made into an ambulance , eg) The door info for weights on the 1991 incomplete truck is just for that, so it does not take into account the RV part added on after. There would be no way for them to know how much it weighs with the RV part on it. All they knew was how much the truck part can carry. You have to weigh it with the empty RV part on it to see where to start from for adding more weight. In our case, the empty RV part took up all the weight allowance for the truck part, so anything we add puts us over GVWR and RAWR. It has been on the road for 30 years well over the weight ratings so I am not too fussed about it (we got it three years ago) I have the back tires with more psi for the actual weight on them, and it has air bags, but that does not change the fact it is way over RAWR and GVWR. Luckily, "they" only make commercials pull into the scales!
BFL13 09/09/20 08:02am Class C Motorhomes
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