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 > Your search for posts made by 'BFL13' found 1074 matches.

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8531 Furnace Duct Adapter Install Questions

https://www.amazon.com/Hydro-Flame-Corp-31474-Adapter/dp/B00CLSWS6I I have an 8531 furnace with 4" knockouts for the ducts. The duct adapter is listed as 1474 in the manual, but get this on Amazon which seems to be the right part. I want to add a duct. 1. How do you get it in/on and to stay there after you knock out the knockout? 2. Do regular hardware stores sell these instead of using the Atwood part? Thanks EDIT--found this way down in the link above--not clear how it goes in the hole in the first place. " a 1/4 turn"
BFL13 08/05/20 09:37am Tech Issues
RE: Television - 12 volt or 120?

With Covid, the library thing is to borrow movies on line instead of DVDs for real. As noted above, you can then HDMI those to your TV from your "device" (fancy name for laptop apparently :) --I am not up to date on all this geek stuff, but get by somehow. :( )
BFL13 08/04/20 08:18pm Tech Issues
RE: Television - 12 volt or 120?

This topic has been coming up forever. The answer used to be that you will be running a DVD anyway at times, which needs the inverter, so might as well have the TV on it too. You can put the inverter on an on/off switch like some come with. You plug the TV and DVD etc into a power bar that has an on/off switch. So you don't leave the TV "off" which actually leaves it on in standby drawing power. Turn off the power bar that is in the inverter, and that kills the TV dead. Yes to getting a bigger TV if wanted. I added one of those swing- out TV holders instead of the OEM "box" in the 1991 Class C, and now have a 32" TV up there. The "box" holds the DVD and VCR (yes :) ) and whatever stuff. Good mod! You can use MSW or PSW with TV stuff- doesn't matter. A big inverter doesn't use any more than a smaller inverter when you only have it on when running things. I posted actual measured numbers on that topic some years ago if you can find that info. A TV draws way more power with high brightness settings. If you really care about battery draw on inverter, choose a lower brightness setting on the TV.
BFL13 08/04/20 06:35pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery charging with disconnect

Some chargers say to put the neg clamp on the frame instead of the neg battery post to avoid sparks. If you did that with the battery neg cable disconnected from the frame, you would get nothing to the battery. If you put the neg clamp on the battery it would work.
BFL13 08/02/20 01:09pm Tech Issues
RE: New trailer, new challenges

It’s rated at 650 watts “maximum power continuous.” The 55a was 800 watts but figured I shouldn’t push my luck. In that PowerMax link above, you see the 45 amper is given as 650w output. That is not the input! You see 9 amps for that. Also note the 85% efficiency. So what does all that really mean. First check the voltage they are using for output-- 650w and 45 amps means 14.44 volts. So that is good. Not using the 13.6 like some do. Next find the input at 85% using 650w out. 765w. Ok , now do the 0.7 power factor on that to get 1093w required from the gen. (IMO the Honda might do that for a time, since they seem to do a little more than their ratings, but it is better not to overwork the equipment for it to last) The 9 amps at 120v would be 1080w so that is near that 1093 so all comes out right for that set of specs. IMO the Honda 1000 could run that 45 amper until the battery voltage got up somewhat. Your output watts is based on battery voltage, so the higher the battery voltage gets while the amps are still at 45 in the Bulk stage, the more input is required from the gen. Max power is just at the end of Bulk before amps taper. As soon as amps taper, the gen can start to ease off. So it would almost get it done, but not to the end of the Bulk stage so that is not much use where you are doing a 50-80 and Bulk ends at around 80% SOC say. Your gen would overload at more like 75% so you only got a 50-75 done.
BFL13 08/02/20 12:53pm Tech Issues
RE: New trailer, new challenges

GoPower was , maybe still is , using PowerMax as their converter supplier. Look for "max" in the GoPower name for it. PMX also supplies the ones known as "Boondocker". So you are where you started! :) I hope the Honda 1000 will run a 45 amper at 14.6v as it is borderline. Try to be at sea level! The 45 amper wants 9 amps--can't remember what a Honda 1000 will do https://powermaxconverters.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/PM3-Spec-Sheet.pdf Rats--the 1000 is for 8.3max and less for running. Still, you might find it works. Time2roll was right as usual.
BFL13 08/01/20 05:41pm Tech Issues
RE: New trailer, new challenges

Deck mount converters have a cord to plug into 120v. You just plug into the Honda via an extension cord. If mounting the deck mount up front you will need a 120v receptacle to plug it into. In the 5er we had, I extended the receptacle that was on the front wall low down beside the steps up to the bedroom area. That receptacle had its back into the cargo bay up front so I just ran another receptacle from the back of that one up to the front of the cargo bay where the cord of the deck mount could reach it. The OEM 12v wires from battery to DC fuse panel stay as is and you just put new short wires from the deck mount to the batteries.
BFL13 08/01/20 09:00am Tech Issues
RE: New trailer, new challenges

Yes, you can just leave the OEM converter as is for when on shore power and make any deck mount converter into a portable battery charger to use off-grid. Plug it into the gen when needed, use a cut off end of a set of jumper cables to put in the DC output terminals of the deck mount and clamp on to the battery bank. Put it all away when done recharging till next time. You can still get use from a smaller solar set. It can't keep up, but it does extend the time before you need to get out the gen and do it that way. That might be enough delay to last you a long weekend without using the gen and you get home with the batts down but still above 50% so you recharge at home. Same effect as having an extra battery along but that won't fit in the RV, but the smaller solar set will.
BFL13 08/01/20 07:49am Tech Issues
RE: New trailer, new challenges

Yes to the Boondocker but limit for the Honda 1000 is a 45 amper. Two 6s can take a 75 amper but you would need a Honda 2200 to run that. You might save less than an hour of gen time that way, so probably not worth it. Solar does not take 110v input. Input is from the solar panel "array". Solar does help when there is some sunshine.
BFL13 07/31/20 10:07am Tech Issues
RE: DC power issue after installing inverter

No such switch. Whole idea is for the converter when on shore power to recharge and then maintain the battery, so you don't want the battery disconnected. On our old 5er, the battery disconnect switch was at the kitchen counter and was a push pull knob. Wife kept bumping it without knowing she did it and that would kill the 12v. :) Some have a big red switch handle but it is hard to tell which way is open and which way is closed. Same with those rocker switch types seen in some Class As over the door. (they put two same looking rockers there so first you have to guess which is the house battery disconnect, then guess which way is open) Some people call those a "salesman switch", can't remember why. EDIT--sounds like a typical idiotic RV layout for the battery only reversed from the usual. If possible, move the battery to the front cargo bay like many 5ers have theirs, so it is close to the converter and DC fuse panel in that 5er. Saves voltage drop by using short wire runs. Many RVs seem to be based on the idea of using miles of thin wire instead, so the battery is at the other end of the RV from the converter. :(
BFL13 07/26/20 01:22pm Tech Issues
RE: DC power issue after installing inverter

I suppose the converter doing the loop could be putting out its max amps, so if the battery fuse is too small in amps for that size converter (can happen) it might have blown. If a CB it should reset. But some CBs need to be reset manually--little black button on it. I have seen where the battery DC CB is back farther under the trailer, stuck on the underbelly, and not on the tongue by the battery. Just doing the charging when looped would not blow any fuse unless the fuse is too small. I have done that a few times and only noticed when the converter fan came on. Oops. Forgot to turn off converter. But nothing bad happened except loss of a few AH whenever I did it.
BFL13 07/26/20 12:30pm Tech Issues
RE: DC power issue after installing inverter

Is there a "battery disconnect switch" that got switched to "open" in all the excitement? Sometimes these are mounted inside near the door. Not everything gets shut off by that switch (LP alarm, eg) so the hydraulic pump must not be on it either if that is the problem here. Also that pump working means your "battery fuse" (or DC CB) close to the battery must be ok. Only thing after the battery fuse and the DC panel is the battery disconnect switch, so suspect that.
BFL13 07/26/20 12:11pm Tech Issues
RE: Electrical - smoked up the cabin

http://specialtyconcepts.com/SPECIALTY_CONCEPTS_PDF_FILES/ASC_INSTRUC_MANUAL.PDF Bench test procedure scroll way down. Was mention above that where RP can damage the ASC. If you have Option F, it could be cranked too high, but you would have seen that in past operation, I think
BFL13 07/24/20 10:02am Tech Issues
RE: Electrical - smoked up the cabin

I used to have one of those controllers. They still had the user's manual on line a couple years ago with its troubleshooting guide. Yes, your controller is not working right. ISTR the guide says something about bad FETs or whatever. Need to check that.
BFL13 07/24/20 09:48am Tech Issues
RE: Replacing PD 9145A

Your AGM and any flooded too needs to see 14.x volts to be charged up properly. Your converter without the Charge Wizard only does 13.6v, so your battery will die an early death.
BFL13 07/23/20 08:14pm Tech Issues
RE: Electrical - smoked up the cabin

Forget the 18v! Your controller will pass "12v" battery voltage to the array once it is connected to the battery. With no battery you are just seeing array voltage with no battery. You seem to have a 12v array with that 18v. Connect the controller to the battery. Actually, if it is a 12/24 controller, you should first connect it to the battery so the controller knows it is a 12v system or a 24v system and it sets for that, then you connect the solar panel array to the controller. In this case, it might work just connecting. It will not fry. If it doesn't work right, then do it the proper way around, connecting battery first.
BFL13 07/23/20 08:09pm Tech Issues
RE: Electrical - smoked up the cabin

Good that the converter works after you replaced the RP fuses. You had that right it would protect itself. Some controllers want you to always disconnect the array first and connect last or they might fry. Yours obviously does not care about that. So connect it to the batts. What smoked? Did you answer the earlier question about the jacks? Didn't see that. Usually RP just means the lights work but the fans run backwards. The gen starts from house batts. The trouble started before you swapped batts and got the RP? Look at the gen DC cables for any melting. (Guessing here!)
BFL13 07/23/20 06:36pm Tech Issues
RE: mono vs poly real life testing

30a is ok for 450w mounted flat. Not wimpy at all. Leaves a little room for cold ambient. It would not leave proper margin for cold ambient with aimed 450w at high noon where it would be close to 30a. The controller will warm up too much if you go over its 30a rating for very long. Cloud effect short times are ok.
BFL13 07/15/20 01:26pm Tech Issues
RE: mono vs poly real life testing

They went to 36 cells to get the voltage into the 14s to charge batteries properly, where the 33 cell ones could not. They still have an issue with 60 cell panels vs 72s when doing 24v. jimindenver was the member who showed poly was better in low light and shoulder hours ISTR.
BFL13 07/15/20 01:03pm Tech Issues
RE: 12V wiring Aluminum Cargo Trailer conversion

Yes, the 120v and 12v share the same RV frame for ground (120)/neg (12). Typical RV power centre has the 120v incoming to the 30a Main breaker with the bare ground wire going to the RV frame. Meanwhile the converter in that power centre uses the same RV frame for much of its several neg paths to the various 12v items such as slide motor, jacks, etc. The metal skin of RVs that have that is the negative path for the clearance lights too. The metal casing of the power centre is grounded to the frame as is the "lower portion" 's metal casing (chassis) so that is the "chassis ground" for the converter. If you have a deck mount converter it will have its own chassis ground from a lug on its metal casing. Same with a bigger inverter. Warning--do not bring the chassis ground of an inverter back around to its own neg input terminal. That does get to the frame via the battery's neg ground to frame, but you are supposed to run the inverter chassis ground direct to the frame. Those inverter chassis grounds are to reduce radio interference.
BFL13 07/07/20 03:29pm Tech Issues
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