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RE: Fridge Thermistor Replacement Question UPDATE (Fixed)

Thanks for the explanations. Makes sense now. Yes, my old Dometic fridge had to be set at 1 and the thermistor to high on the right and it still went just under freezing. At least it did cycle from there. Had to replace that fridge for other things wrong with it. I will get the replacement part for the Norcold as in the OP. If that makes no difference, I will check out those other gadgets mentioned. Good tips on that, thanks. I did have some calibration problems with fridge thermometers, even though my new multimeter checks out as in the other thread. I have two fridge thermometers and they disagree by more than moving the thermistor among the fins can do. Cure is to have only one thermometer! :)
BFL13 02/10/20 08:03pm Tech Issues
RE: Fridge Thermistor Replacement Question UPDATE (Fixed)

According to this http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/norcoldnxseries.pdf At 70F it should be 11.1-12.0 kOhms. Mine is 8.2 kOhms At 51F it should be 15.5-16.5 kOhms. Mine is 12.7 kOhms At 70F the little Dometic one is 3.4 kOhms. So assuming mine is out by having lower R on the whole range, then instead of shutting off the heat at 25, mine would still have been way lower so it never shut off. The little Dometic one would be even lower in R so it didn't do any good. Perhaps my jury rig should have used both thermistors in parallel. ISTR they would add their Rs doing that. ?? Anyway, unless somebody says no, I plan to order the replacement thermistor part. I see in the manual above that it goes on the 10th fin from the right, at least to start with.
BFL13 02/10/20 03:26pm Tech Issues
RE: Fridge Thermistor Replacement Question UPDATE (Fixed)

Yes it didn't work when I swapped to the old Dometic thermistor. I have not yet checked either one for R. Based on above posts, first I need to confirm the Norcold one is not right before getting a new one or one of those other gizmos. Camping this weekend I just turned off the fridge when the fridge thermometer said it was getting too cold, and back on again later. I am really mixed up on how the thermistor works. AFAIK they have more R when cold (at least those in-rush ones do), so that would mean the signal to turn off the fridge is when R gets that high. But then, they say to move the thermistor up where it is warmer on the fins to make it shut off sooner. Makes no sense to me. Oh well. http://rvrefrigeratorrepair.com/uncategorized/the-thermistor-shuffle/
BFL13 02/10/20 01:00pm Tech Issues
RE: Fridge Thermistor Replacement Question UPDATE (Fixed)

Thanks. Also noted the way to measure its R. Heading out so no replies for a few days.
BFL13 02/08/20 08:54am Tech Issues
Fridge Thermistor Replacement Question UPDATE (Fixed)

Updated 10 Feb. and 14 Feb My 641 Norcold cools down too cold and won't shut off. It is not in back up power--the temp light does not flash. I have not yet fiddled with the light/thermistor to see if it is just a bad connection. There is a replacement part available. As a temporary fix if fiddling doesn't help, can I swap out the sensor (snip the wires) and replace with an old Dometic 6 cu ft fridge's sensor (splicing in its wires to the Norcold's) AFAIK it is all about the resistance of the sensor, but no idea what the circuit board would think. http://rvrefrigeratorrepair.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Norcold-Service-N61x-N81x.pdf Thanks
BFL13 02/08/20 07:28am Tech Issues
RE: Mh propane capacity discrepency

The OP is using 1/4 etc, suggesting he is using the LP monitor on his range hood and not the actual gauge on the tank. As noted above, "full" and "half" are not the same on the two. The lowest light on the monitor indicates from when it first turns to only that light and stays that way until all the LP is gone, so how much it takes to refill varies. Also ISTR that amount varies "as corrected" for temperature.
BFL13 02/08/20 06:44am Tech Issues
RE: Best charge controllers..

In MPPT Bulk it seeks Vmp. In PWM mode in Absorption and Float it lets go of Vmp and does "on demand" with voltage varying (not constant) The voltage appears to go higher than Vmp down the knee and back up the knee if demand increases. Actually it is turning on and off (PWM) with durations varying.
BFL13 02/08/20 06:29am Tech Issues
RE: Multimeter Calibration?

If you have a HF mulimeter there is a pot inside that will adjust the voltage readings. I use my B&D charger and adjust the voltage reading on my HF meter to match it. I have about 4 meters that I use in the RV,house and car now that all read the same now. I used to use my friends Fluke meter to adjust my HF meter but he moved away. Never thought of that! VEC1093DBD on a battery the meter said is 13.14, the VEC said 13.2v. That was with it clamped to that battery and plugged in saying 000 but not set to charging. This was in the unheated garage. The VEC has temp comp voltage.
BFL13 02/06/20 05:46pm Tech Issues
RE: Multimeter Calibration?

The owner's manual does give accuracy specs for the various parameters. However, that does not tell you if the base reading is correct. It tells you that whatever the reading is, it could be more or less than that within the accuracy range. Specs on page 7 (but link is slow today ) I got this one on sale. I would not pay full price for this meter, but is a good deal at $25 IMO. https://www.canadiantire.ca/content/dam/canadian-tire/manuals/0520726P_EN_FR.pdf
BFL13 02/06/20 03:05pm Tech Issues
RE: Multimeter Calibration?

Thanks, that video was helpful, showing what to expect at various voltages. I checked the new meter against some small batteries, and it comes out fairly well I think. A 9v batt reads 9.17 and four 1.5s in series reads 6.22 where the batteries are all showing "good" with my battery tester. (Also not calibrated) My other RV meters are to one decimal place and say 13.8v, while the new meter says 13.84. I don't know when those other meters roll up to 13.9 passing through 13.85. It seems the new meter might be reading a teeny bit high, but it is accurate enough for anything I use it for, based on all that. The old one said 13.56 instead of 13.8 on the Trimetric. The part I don't like is how these meters go off calibration slowly so you don't notice it. You can think you have voltage drop when you don't for instance, or not as much as it appears. You can adjust the voltage reading on the Trimetric in P18 to match what your meter says, but first you need to know if the meter is right. :( Have to do a meter check on a regular schedule from now on. Lesson learned.
BFL13 02/06/20 11:25am Tech Issues
Multimeter Calibration?

What is the best way to check your voltmeter? Some years ago I ran into the problem where the meter read voltages too high when its battery was low. That took a while to discover since it happened gradually. Now I found my meter has been reading low for an unknown time. Kept seeing a difference of about 0.2 volts between Trimetric and other meters but thought it was those other meters that were reading high for some reason like voltage drop that confuses things. Anyway, I finally decided that there was something wrong with the multimeter. Battery ok, fuse ok, leads ok confirmed by swapping them. No change. Got a new meter and the manual says to first check its voltage to make sure it is working right. Ha! Check it against what? It is reading about the same as the Trimetric and the other meters, so they seem to have voted on it, and sort of agree on the actual voltage within a 0.1 range. ISTR on here there was a way to confirm your meter's voltage using flashlight batteries or whatever it was. However, I also remember those eBay meters that are only accurate at higher voltages and are wonky at low voltages. So what can an RVer do "trying this at home" without having a calibration lab?
BFL13 02/06/20 10:26am Tech Issues
RE: Pumping out of a water jug

"insert it before you start pumping. " Is that one of those in-house lawyer requirements that you have to put out in writing? :) I hope it isn't one of those IQ test things that I often fail.
BFL13 02/05/20 06:09pm Tech Issues
RE: Charge Up Those "New" Batteries

Mobilesport has a PowerMax 60 amp LK, so he can be forgiven anything! It's those PD guys who are already on thin ice. :)
BFL13 02/05/20 05:57pm Tech Issues
RE: Another Solar Controller question

I have a 100w Renogy solar panel that is used to keep the two 6 volt batteries (flooded) charged while dry camping. The controller that came with the trailer when I bought it was one of the cheap generic chinese models (blue) that sell on amazon for $15 or $20. The usb ports broke and I am looking to replace. My thought is that a PWM is fine for my needs. What amp size controller is recommended? And what are the optimum float, high voltage and low voltage disconnect settings, and load on setting for this setup? Thanks First look up the charging voltage specs for those 6v batteries. Typically 14.8v absorption with 13.6 float at 77F, but higher with lower temps and lower with higher temps. If you get a temperature compensated controller, then just set for 77F and leave it. 100w at 6.2 amps Isc (which is what you see with PWM) is not much for keeping up a pair of 6s unless you hardly use any 12v and it is always sunny. So in case you get more solar, go for more amps size of a controller with adjustable voltage settings ( even if you don't get more panel watts.) The Grape 40 amper is often recommended here (Home Depot ISTR) for not much money.
BFL13 02/05/20 05:50pm Tech Issues
RE: Best charge controllers..

First you need to know what you want it to do with your batteries. Then there will be several to choose from that can do that, especially if they are adjustable. No point asking anybody else who doesn't know what you want it to do.
BFL13 02/04/20 09:29pm Tech Issues
RE: Pumping out of a water jug

Carboy with threaded connector They are called carboys and since these are for labs the prices are outrageous. That's because real labs have contracts with the lab supply companies and the labs pay deeply discounted prices. But the 12V pump is the best idea Here is what a Carboy really is (can't resist having this memory flash seeing "carboys" mentioned) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carboy I remember these from home-brewing days making beer. I used the one-bottle method, which meant the beer sat in the bottles for a month or so with the gunk (forget the correct term) settling until the beer in the upper part of the bottle was clear. Then you had to pour it carefully tipping into a tipped glass so not get any gunk in your glass of beer. The "two-bottle" method avoided that, so you didn't get any gunk in the beer bottles. My method meant you could not take it over to your friend's place or it would re-mix bumping down the road. It did not "travel well". :) My friend made wine and used carboys for that. The idea was it took six months to make wine. So he got apples from my trees in the Fall, and we drank his wine at Xmas. We declared the six months was up :) Only useful for RVers in the USA in the ? Ozarks ? dodging the "Revenoors" AFAIK. ( No fear of those guys in Nova Scotia back in the day )
BFL13 02/04/20 06:14pm Tech Issues
RE: Pumping out of a water jug

As an alternative perhaps, one of these works with all sorts of containers. I have used it to fill the FW tank in the RV from a bucket sitting on the ground. Inverter to run the drill. I did notice the MSW inverter ran the drill slowly, but it was still enough to get the water up into the trailer. A PSW would be a little faster. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-drill-pump-kit-0543802p.0543802.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxoXFr_S45wIVAtVkCh1zpAL6EAQYAiABEgKQJPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#store=366
BFL13 02/04/20 03:16pm Tech Issues
RE: Panels don't run things

The charge controller like the converter, does 12v loads first and anything left over goes to the battery if the battery wants any. If the solar can't run the loads all by itself then the battery has to make up the difference. So yes, the solar can and does run things. That is why you need a battery monitor to show only what the battery gets and not go by what the controller's display is saying-- some or all of that is going to loads other than the battery. The real question, as asked on here before (true!) is what happens to all that solar output when there are no other loads and the battery is full? :)
BFL13 02/04/20 01:55pm Tech Issues
RE: AGM Troubles Update

That link above also says " If plates are damaged, sulfated or partially gone from long use, the battery may give the appearance of being fully charged, but in reality acts like a battery of a much smaller size. This same thing can occur in AGM cells if they are overcharged and gaps or bubbles occur. What is left of the plates may be fully functional, but with only 20% of the plates left. Batteries usually go bad for other reasons before reaching this point, but it is something to be aware of if your batteries seem to test okay but lack capacity and go dead very quickly under load." That's what my AGMs are like, but with more than half of original capacity. Hard to measure exactly with my tests at the 20 hr rate over time. About 60% it seems. What I don't know is how I damaged them and if they will stay the way they are for a while so I can still use them as a 270AH bank instead of rated 450AH. Plan A is to use them and see what happens. So far so good on that. Plan B is get two more GC15s (230AH) and toss the AGMs, for a four- battery set of Wet 6s at 460AH. Solar helps by keeping the voltage up and hides the poor state of the batteries. Only camp on sunny days should work! :)
BFL13 02/04/20 07:48am Tech Issues
RE: Charge Up Those "New" Batteries

Good reasoning for the single 100AH Li and recharging routines. I have camped when it is near freezing and the furnace ate 100 AH in a day, never mind all the other 12v draws, so I would need two of those Lis to avoid running out of AH in the night. Reasoning still comes out the same way, needing 400AH of GC2s or equivalent. Of course it requires you to be young enough to get the 10 years to make that work!
BFL13 02/03/20 09:48pm Tech Issues
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