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RE: You tube Fulltimers getting squeezed

My niece's daughter just got into the whole "Skoolie" thing. She and her boyfriend think they're going to save money over paying rent. They bought a good sized school bus and now they're fixing it up. Problem is, they're in Massachusetts. (Well...that's a problem for A LOT of reasons, but I'll stick to the weather related ones for now! LOL) Yup, winter is coming. There are very few campgrounds that are open during the winter, there are some cities & towns which don't even allow you to keep an RV on your property and many more that won't allow you to live in such a vehicle. I've winter camped in our RV several times. And our rig has dual pane windows and OK insulation. Their bus has neither. I can tell you it took A LOT of propane and electricity to keep the interior livable and water flowing, especially as the temps dipped into the single. Sadly, I suspect they are destined to be another couple who pumped gobs of money into such a project with grandiose dreams only to lose it all in the end. I hope not, for their sake. I guess time will tell. I believe another reason it's so easy to sway today's youngster into ideas of this type is that the vast majority of students who graduate from high school in the U.S. have never taken a home economics course of any type. They don't have a clue of how to budget properly, how to prepare for the proverbial "rainy day", or even how to save so they're not living paycheck to paycheck. None of that is taught. It makes them very vulnerable to the sales tactics of "It only costs you $xx dollars per month. You can afford another $xx dollars/month, can't you?" That's the way everything is sold now, with the final cost barely mentioned. I'm not making excuses for them, but it is easy to see why it's not too hard to sway these youngsters into shaky deals. As an aside, I went to this website: Finished Skoolies for Sale and can't believe the asking prices for most of the units for sale. In my opinion, they're not very attractive and even the cheapest of commercial RVs look better. I think many of them look like excursion buses you'd see in some South African nature show. LOL Regardless of how nice you make it look on the inside, from the outside, it looks like a school bus! Obviously, there's more to it than just looks. But still...if you buy one of these conversions, you have NO IDEA how anything was wired, plumbed, constructed and if it was done with any regards at all to safety. Let alone the engine and drivetrain components. It's just a wild shot in the dark. Well, hopefully this will be a short-lived fad as folks realize that this is NOT a cheaper way to live for the vast majority of us. ~Rick Works from Interstate 20 and south. Not so much getting north from there in regards some amount of year-round comfort. $500 ground rent and no utility cost. But RVs wear down faster and the rate of expenses is higher, with or without much travel. It’s DIY or Bust as RV Techs almost don’t exist (a curious phenomenon), but then one must be auto mechanic, plumber, electrician, and carpenter to some extent. Travel is funds-available. Too few make a study of what constitutes “efficiency” (storage capacities against fuel burn) and suffer for it. Nor is “self-containment” understood as it should be (nights aboard without forced re-supply of any sort). It’s no great shakes to live in one while stationary, it’s another thing to successfully travel AND stay ahead of needed repairs (replace before failure; foreign-made appliances are all over the place on lifespan), THEN what constitutes “drivetrain” and vehicular road standards. The marine industry has better components, but $600 water pumps and $1800 stove/ovens aren’t what RVers consider acceptable. A new set of best quality trailer tires every (3) years at $1,000, etc. The current situation is a shake-out like those previous. $1/gal gasoline . . . who can afford THAT? (1979). It’ll be a good time to trade UP in quality. A used Airstream or Oliver or Bigfoot. Something made decently. The AS also fits the bill on efficiency past having an indefinite lifespan. That last part pays for the rest. A lighter, more capable TV fits better than any pickup, as well. “Paid for “ TT & TV covers most upcoming problems. That’s the part which doesn’t work: Still paying for the RV rig and/or second car. The rest can be dealt with as time & funds allow when the RV rig is bought outright. Temp or seasonal jobs can take the pressures off in order to travel several months of the year (and park for the more difficult or busy seasons). .
BackOfThePack 11/30/22 01:34am General RVing Issues
RE: cross winds? Crosswind is what initiates most loss-of-control accidents. Can be natural winds (hard gust), or from oncoming traffic. Both are most dangerous when on the down-slope of a grade. Three Parts: A square box TT (which this is) allows crosswinds to build in force the length of the trailer coupled to a floor height too high to be optimum (slide-out roadworthiness problem) where the cheap suspension design is leaf-sprung type which exacerbates those problems. As with tractor-trailers, the REAR of the trailer will lift due to the force AND that air is passing underneath in great volume. Lower floor height plus independent suspension is first. “Best” is that in a true aero design. Aero is where all joins of walls/floors/roof have substantial radius as air is not trapped — pulls as it escapes versus being trapped and pushing — and nearly no crossflow underneath). Square box travel trailers aren’t heavy enough to resist much. With a big truck and 47,000-lbs in the box WITH the trailer tandems rolled back there “can” be enough resistance to heavy crosswinds in SOME instances. Too high ground clearance, squared edges, AND the sail area behind the axles combine to cause tail lift BEFORE YOU KNOW IT AT THE STEERING WHEEL (4WD pickup the worst TV for this reason among others). A HENSLEY patent hitch is “the solution” (having made all other types obsolete), but the TT design is the major problem. An aero TT & Hensley (or Pro Pride) is where crosswind problems are fairly well eliminated. 5th wheel trailers are worse than conventional due to the huge sail area plus shared design problems. A hitch only works so well is the point. Bad TT design proceeds it. High-risk trailering moments are wind and/or down-slope related where the forward motion of the rig isn’t enough to keep slack out of the hitch rigging against external factors. When sail area, non-aero design and poor suspension are added, the risk is that much greater. Can’t slow the rig soon enough and safely enough to avoid the problems of hard gusts once the operator is constantly correcting for wind. One can go higher than 15% TW, but it won’t solve tail-lift and loss of control at the TV rear axle. The contact patch of the rear tires is the whole ballgame. In short, if the wind put you onto the shoulder, THAT was your guardian angel shouting at you. .
BackOfThePack 11/26/22 01:19pm Towing
RE: Newbie Road Trip TX to FL width=650
BackOfThePack 10/12/22 08:42pm Roads and Routes
RE: Why do I need a W/D or sway control

I was hoping for more fact than opinion for my question. Not going to find it on a forum. Test it. That’s your start to understanding, and to what experience is a guide.
BackOfThePack 07/04/22 06:50am Towing
RE: Why do I need a W/D or sway control

Except I can continue down the roads in winds where you’d have to pull over. Same truck, Jimnlin. Can do maneuvers in which you’d roll. It ain’t about skill. It’s the side load. Winds, suspensions, and hitch and how they effect the vehicle dynamic. Weight matters little. I’ve seen 1800-lb trailed compressors take DRWs off the pavement.
BackOfThePack 07/04/22 06:49am Towing
RE: Why do I need a W/D or sway control

Scale it. Then weigh the truck Solo after dropping trailer. Full propane & fresh water in trailer plus normal load for camping Full fuel & passengers plus normal camping load. 2-300/lbs off the Steer at rest is enough to warrant the use. These are placeholder numbers for what happens on the road. Steering, Handling & Braking are improved by WDH use. The higher the Rear Axle spring capacity — UNUSED — the likelier the possibility of the Drive Axle losing tire patch contact when the TT moves against the direction of travel. Couple that to load of Steer Axle tire ground pressure and it’s NOT as good a driver. I’ve towed my 35’ Silver Streak with and without WD (plus anti-sway, a somewhat separate question). And I’ve been at fifty years this year. It’s not hard to tell the difference. With a Hensley hitch I can do hard emergency maneuvers at speeds higher than that where you’d roll over. At 55-mph. All day. Suspensions not as good on mine. My 2500 is at 50/50 FF/RR weight spread on the truck before I hitch. Front axle restoration and increased weight on the trailer tires means the rig stops faster than the truck will solo at 30-mph. Loss of Control accidents with travel trailers are mainly hard, gusting winds. It’s over in a few seconds. Once traction is lost at the pickup Drive Axle its over. MAYBE the truck based anti sway will kick in soon enough. You’ve been on this forum a long time. Same as me. But it doesn’t look like you’ve taken to heart the experience of those who know more than you. There are plenty of examples over on AIR of guys with a PPP hitch and trailer disc brakes. It’s almost a toss-up as to which leads in priority. Almost. Test. And reference it against 5’er weight scale tickets. The reason for that hitch type is it leaves the Steer at solo value. A little above. But not below. A 3P hitch replicates that and then totally eliminates sway. 5’ers will sway. Your trailer is constantly moving. It doesn’t track straight. Anyone can video the movement. A 3P tracks straight. Better than a 5’er. Live-axle, 4WD pickups are the least stable vehicles on the road. And worse when towing. That you can’t feel anything is a bad sign, not a good one. Pickups roll over in situations where cars slide sideways. A pickup will be the vehicle in a combination MORE likely to initiate a crash as the Airstream is faster thru the slalom behind a better tow vehicle than the truck is while solo. Put it on the CAT scale as above. Test braking as above. What’s the highest speed in a HARD wheel turn from the shoulder across to the median without rolling? 35? 40? A WDH is EQUAL in importance to both vehicles. (The hitch rigging). “Weight” is the level where the dummies argue. It’s the percentage of change which matters. And that is quite low as static values are what are entered in multi-part formulas. No different than questions about COG, or Roll Center. Small changes matter. Test. Last I checked both Hensley & Pro Pride both had money back guarantees. If you expect to travel all over the country it’s a dirt cheap purchase for what it does, even if the price were doubled. A fully independent suspension Tahoe or Expedition with their shorter rear overhang, better tire options and brake swept area are each a better tow vehicle than what you or I am driving. The bandaid needed (past proper truck loading) makes considerable difference. The crosswind load — alone — is the crucial factor. Test. .
BackOfThePack 07/04/22 06:33am Towing
RE: What's the truth about the trucking situation?

BackOfThePack 06/18/22 09:24am Around the Campfire
RE: What's the truth about the trucking situation?

BackOfThePack 06/18/22 09:16am Around the Campfire
RE: What's the truth about the trucking situation?

BackOfThePack 06/18/22 09:04am Around the Campfire
RE: What's the truth about the trucking situation?

Not getting paid is a norm. The driver game is maximum miles against accessory pay The companies play a shell-game with their job offers. In the end, it’s that one needs to be out 2-3/weeks to cover enough miles (with what little accessory pay applies) to consider truck driving “decent” in terms of income. 3-weeks is where income plus time-off can work out the best. Xtra-low personal overhead cost plus higher gross weekly income means more money saved than average Joes. (Get this right and the rest is easy). If you’re awake, you’re at work. That becomes (over time) an okay proposition, then it’s a better job than what many have to put up with back home. The one thing I’m a stickler about is time off at home. If I want 4/days, that’s how it is (more than that not much good). 3-nights is a minimum I’ve been gone 3-weeks. (“Time off” overrated as most do nothing past TV watching or social media time-wasting anyway. Can do that in truck). Three full days (4-nights) I can rest, see friends and keep a personalproject moving along. If home weather too hot or cold, stay out more. If nice, get thru house more often. Etc. Bottom line is simple: truck ain’t moving then no one makes money. Too many days off it’s too hard to keep 365-Days Average Income high. Trucking pays by the load, not by the day or hour. A driver isn’t in the mix OF LOADS everyone’s losing money. If the number of loads decline then just sitting kills the thing. (The weak link for driver: higher-expense spending and not earning). Live along major truck lanes and near manufacturing the options and money Is better. Live far off lanes, incomes fall drastically. Pull up a map of CONTAINER PORTS (inland).Too far from these isn’t good for any American. The railroad’s have put their money into this model. The Federal fuel tax hasn’t been raised in thirty years BUT the big boys needed those roads rebuilt for NEW big truck didtribution pattern from outlying new warehouse districts and DC. NOT business to business as traditionally. But didn’t want you moaning about higher personal transportation costs. So it was taken from General Fund (SS take raised earlier). Shell game. Trucking is now the other end where mainly finished goods are moved to a few giant retailers. Containers are how all but bulk commodity is moved (for what you need in day to day life). The “stuff” needed to make the goods arrives that way from overseas. Food is a little different, but not much. Women don’t cook, so “food” became processed (manufactured). Hauling 24-tons of “Italian” pasta from Texas (winter wheat) to NJ a familiar load I’ve carried, bagged, boxed and palletized to a DC (distribution center) in eastern PA and thence portioned to little straight trucks with smiling Luigi painted on the sides to head into metro NYC. Rural food-related trucking is just giant carts moving goods along the open air factory floor from one work station to another. The difference between AVERAGE jobs a driver could get in his area is how well he likes one versus another, otherwise. Less money with less headaches worth it to me. I prefer long-haul. Hauling “animal proteins” (slurry) on the Plains (beef) or rural south (poultry) to metro regional jobs with multiple stops daily (fast food and C-store delivery) are where my hats off to those willing to do them. The home every night jobs (No thanks). I’ve hauled dairy, but it’s very high hard miles (your Arkansas purchased milk may have come from New Mexico). Wall Street “financialized” every bit of the American economy it could. **** the consequences to average men if that has any weak points in the chain. FUEL PRICE CRISIS will bake out to who has loyal drivers past political crookedness (where most stuff happens). Not clear yet. The other part is where the fuel price (even after adjustment as pump price doesn’t reflect actual cost, etc) goes higher than value of goods shipped. That last part is where far rural homeowners will have screwed themselves. If the drive inbound to The Big City doesn’t have goods being delivered for sale, then the outbound trip can’t pay for itself. Relying on 401k and/or transfer payments are a dead-end. A visible end. (Spending and not earning) 4-5 major railroads the bankers hide behind call the shots for Americas economy of goods. Put thumb down on choke points. Trucking just follows along that as no goods by rail = no truck loads (raw materials on up in sophistication) to do final manufacture or assembly steps where trucks then finish the chain. Trucks are the final miles. Not any longer the intermediate step WHERE VALUE WAS ADDED. (Ronnie Raygun kept you distracted with Commie Scares as leveraged buyouts started and bankruptcies accelerated took it apart peaking in the 90s as Billy & The Blue Dress was just more Theater of Distraction from what really mattered). The New Service What’s upstream flows down. Or doesn’t. 1). Seaports by rail to interior rail ports. Containers outbound (less so by truck from seaports) 2). Truck volume shifts some stuff around. USA extends east to IH35. Ends. 3). Truck volume majority is ready-for-delivery to DC. The USA as Economic Activity Roughly the areas “stuff happens”. Income sucked into these from surrounding. Population aggregates which MAY be self-supporting; or as with Gulf Coast petro-chem goes to owners elsewhere. (Ha! Or Florida. Which couldn’t make do past three days as the whole state “survives” on transfer payments). — Trucking serves populations (retail), but that doesn’t add value to an economy any more than do hospitals. Separate wheat from chaff. .
BackOfThePack 06/18/22 07:23am Around the Campfire
RE: Setting up your house to run off your RV generator?

Gasoline: 3-6/month shelf life Diesel: 12/month shelf life Propane: Indefinite To get that out of the way, the problem is a gamble however conceived. What capacity (several 100-lb cylinders or larger) can be addressed somewhat. Design guidelines and rules exist. The function of an RV is to be (and remain) mobile. “More” propane and a TV with “more” diesel onboard than was factory-offered to be the storage tank addition “might” extend one’s abilities where high cost isn’t a barrier, but it’s still going to come to the most favorable climate over preparedness in any event Ability to run from NG isn’t something I’ve come across to power an RV as propane substitute. Using it to generate electricity to in turn be able to substitute wholly or in part is going to take a design/size/weight starts to get prohibitive. IIRC, the engine hour count I’ve seen on some 1980s-era Bluebird Wanderlodge diesel gensets was 12,000 or more. (500-days at 24; or 1k days at 12). 50A service = 12kW (equivalent max). An ONAN that size is $14,000-MSRP (rough; maybe $11k at dealer). Now factor oil/filter changes every 50/hours. And that the warranty is void if used to power a house in any fashion. 7-800/lbs. Fuel consumption is going to go from .5/gl-hr at half-load to .8/gl-hr at full load. All the numbers can be manipulated. But size/weight/consumption are all still a barrier beyond incorrect Genset spec for non-RV use. Use the RV versus the house, short-term. Acquire additional propane bottles with proper transport addressed (least likely), to power the RV. What solar could be added is high-expense with low reliability (long-term) before that systems shortcomings in less than ideal operating conditions. It’s genuinely the house needs to be addressed, not the RV (past maximizing its systems ability/capacity to ensure longest occupancy for a given power source). Natural Gas appears the best backup if that’s feasible. (Takes electricity also, even if remote). Use the RV as family Conestoga to get somewhere better. Warm, dry quarters with all other amenities in the preservation of dignity it’s highest value. Assume injury or illness, that value goes higher yet. The inputs to maintain those keep one’s independence greatest till the day they don’t is in a plan which combines greatest distances on the one hand, and maximum nights-aboard times X-persons on the other. Q: Better to have asked — and prepared; tested — what would it take to ensure complete freedom from any re-supply (food, water, propane & TV fuel) for a family with X-members over Y-nights aboard. Is it 10-nights, or is it 30? What are the differences? (In disaster planning for hurricane evacuation TV MPG — actually, any vehicle — won’t rise above 3-5/MPG . . and 150/miles from the coast is the minimum to access operating fuel stops). With a bare reserve remaining, how far could we go, and for how long? Promises to homeowners that, “be patient, we’re working hard to get the lights back on”, can become lies when two weeks turns into two months What MAY matter most — then — is leaving. (IMO, keep that option foremost). .
BackOfThePack 06/15/22 04:14am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Convert RV fridge to residential

"Electric isn’t even needed except for water pump and furnace. Get priorities straight." Your 3 way fridge won't run without electric (battery). Neither will lights. Without electric from either solar or generator, your batteries will eventually become useless and at that point, nothing will function in your RV. I've got my priorities straight. Electric not needed for lighting. Amp draw for 3-way ref/frz is minimal. Only furnace fan & water pump (which could be manual) have enough demand to warrant battery use. Have a look at 1950s trailers. The difference here from car-camping pre-war is the propane system built-in to service stove/oven, water heater, lighting, furnace, and refrigerator/freezer. Need & Desire aren’t the same. Priority is Propane System (and capacity) first, with Water System (and capacity) a very close second (as it could be re-filled from stream or well). **What limits self-sufficiency over time (X-nights aboard) is the determinant.** Solar is “nice”. That’s it. Besides high expense (and limited life) it has too many points of potential failure. No one stops you from having the additional system at its higher-cost, despite lower reliability and a shorter life if that’s the way you want to do it. I’ve solar on mine. Keeps a pair of batteries charged. But won’t change the time factor in needing re-supply. That said, I’m all in favor of maximizing each system. If I hadn’t shore power, then what? If I lost propane, then what? Lost even 12V, then what? A worthwhile exercise to avoid or delay having to abandon the RV for other lodgings (at the heart of why I’m no fan of motorhomes as the drivetrain/chassis — alone — does this regularly). — An example of this is retro-fitting an electric furnace to utilize the existing fan & ducting (CheapHeat, by Rvcomfortsystems). Solar has its place in the mix. Separate gensets really don’t (bandaid). Ones TV might be so equipped, but that’s not the RV itself (as one can lose its services separately from the RV). Propane gensets were once fitted to TTs (maybe still are), but their performance was lacking, to say the least. As a fallback it’s an expensive, limited-use component and likelier to shorten self-sufficiency even sooner. .
BackOfThePack 06/14/22 05:10pm Full-time RVing
RE: What's the truth about the trucking situation?

You walk into a ice cream shop, order a sundae. The worker tells you "That will be $4.50" but you only want to pay $3.90. Do we declare it a ice cream shortage? Due to a public health issue, where many people could stay home do their jobs, and get paid a lot of other workers, who can't take their job home, learned they deserve a larger share of what the business produces. And a trucking company can pay well, treat drivers good, but if what is often the case, the trucking company's customers treat the driver like something need to scrape off their shoe, it is hard to keep drivers. The “trick” to a good truck-driving job is one where skill adjunctive to driving is required. Tanker Flatbed Oversize — Are starting points to then find the niche in each which itself requires more than average skill for these categories. Not a great deal is involved driving dock-door to dock-door. LTL or TL. Dry van or reefer. Exceptions exist, but this is the basic starter job and is the majority of truck drivers. The three noted are where an assumption of basic skills have been learned (call it, time management + clean driving record) so a man with 2+ years experience can be assumed competent not to damage equipment/freight in any notable way as he acquires what is needed for loading/unloading and/or moving large, difficult loads. — This is where other companies might try to poach drivers from other firms. One becomes known by his reputation. In general, this is the grade to ascend to have a decent life as a truck driver. Shippers & Receivers are glad to see you arrive. Won’t tolerate their own bad employees if it upsets the civility of loads shipped and delivered. For the most part all job moves are lateral. But it’s best to get up the few steps available. .
BackOfThePack 06/14/22 04:41pm Around the Campfire
RE: Setting up your house to run off your RV generator?

A Generac with extra propane tankage sounds better. . Propane would be the worst possible choice. It is far less energy dense than gas, or diesel. Propane lasts longer in storage. Liquid fuels deteriorate fairly fast
BackOfThePack 06/14/22 04:25pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: What's the truth about the trucking situation?

There’s not a driver shortage and never has been. That’s the mega carriers collaborating to flood every region with THEIR drivers in order to cut rates further. In turn, that gets them permission to hire foreigners and expedite the green card. The sinkhole gets worse from there. The game is to undercut every system of support.
BackOfThePack 06/05/22 07:25pm Around the Campfire
RE: Setting up your house to run off your RV generator?

Unless weather were below freezing in the daytime, moving into the RV seems better to me. Most gensets (unless a $$$$ motorhome) are going to have a duty cycle and installation isn’t quite meant for running days or weeks on end. A Generac with extra propane tankage sounds better. With an attached garage and appliances chosen as NEEDS for the smallest area — the RV just outside — I could see getting by. I just wouldn’t care to try to run a house-sized kitchen and keep it heated or cooled versus using the RV and the attached garage as transition. I’d be looking at a man-door to the garage, not just panel upgrades, and a sealed floor that could stand up to heavy family use + pets without adding to the burden. Garage can be subdivided many ways (insulation) to “fit” needs. Spent some years on the Gulf Coast where hurricanes are an expectation. There aren’t any cheering good stories from those dumb enough to ride out no worse than loss of power. The size and duty-rating of a Genset (and fuel) to go for weeks is not, IMO, what is provided in an RV. Chasing fuel was 150-miles from coast and a full day of being gone. You’ve “lost” the house. Don’t lose the RV also. Minimize demand. .
BackOfThePack 06/05/22 07:05pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Convert RV fridge to residential

Propane systems are dirt simple, reliable & safe as well as cheap. None of which can be said for solar electric. Solar panels are nice when they work. Sort of like wind turbines. I’ve had them thirty years. Great marginal addition. 3-way reefer in current trailer is 20-years old this year. High hours of use. If one has problems, search for answers (badly-built trailers feature bad installations). Maximize each system to work well with the others. And, to a goal of being without re-supply up to X-nights-aboard with Y-people and Z-gallons fresh water. There is no point in overdoing that system which doesn’t matter when other supply causes one to have to move or to go to town. Fit the pieces together. There’s plenty one can do IF he wants to provide EVERY service via ONLY propane, or 12V or 120V (Upgrades & additions). Propane & Water are the essential systems in a camper. They are at the defining point of what is meant by “self-sufficient”. Electric isn’t even needed except for water pump and furnace. Get priorities straight. There’s nothing “simple” about solar electric. It has multiple failure points built-in. (When that happens, your 3-way will switch over to propane).
BackOfThePack 06/05/22 06:38pm Full-time RVing
RE: Best route in WV

Get yourself a road map and look at where you want to go. All roads are about the same. Get yourself a COMMERCIAL ROAD CARRIERS ATLAS to always be able to distinguish Truck Routes thru an area. Wider lanes, better shoulders, improved signage.
BackOfThePack 06/05/22 06:25pm Roads and Routes
RE: La Veta Pass (Colorado) with old and heavy RV?

La Veta was more exciting in a Class A at high summer circa 1976. The Dodge-powered rigs made it over, the Fords & Chebbies coughed to a halt. Plenty of big truck wreckers sitting alongside to get them over. .
BackOfThePack 06/05/22 06:22pm Roads and Routes
RE: Memphis Crossing

Coming from the south, IH-55. There’s no reason to go thru town to catch IH-40. I’ll assume you’re familiar, but for others who aren’t, the turn onto the bridge access is a cloverleaf. It’s tight & slow. One wants to use the center lane on the approach as both it and the right lane make the curve. (Speed limit signs are not advisories). This ANCIENT stretch of roadway is not like many places left, now). Need to be aware of potential traffic problems. Memphis can snarl in a hurry. This is the way I look at it as a truck driver. You can also cross to the south at Greenville, MS, as well as farther north at Dyersburg, TN.
BackOfThePack 06/05/22 06:17pm Roads and Routes
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