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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Why do I need a W/D or sway control

I was hoping for more fact than opinion for my question. Not going to find it on a forum. Test it. That’s your start to understanding, and to what experience is a guide.
BackOfThePack 07/04/22 06:50am Towing
RE: Why do I need a W/D or sway control

Except I can continue down the roads in winds where you’d have to pull over. Same truck, Jimnlin. Can do maneuvers in which you’d roll. It ain’t about skill. It’s the side load. Winds, suspensions, and hitch and how they effect the vehicle dynamic. Weight matters little. I’ve seen 1800-lb trailed compressors take DRWs off the pavement.
BackOfThePack 07/04/22 06:49am Towing
RE: Why do I need a W/D or sway control

Scale it. Then weigh the truck Solo after dropping trailer. Full propane & fresh water in trailer plus normal load for camping Full fuel & passengers plus normal camping load. 2-300/lbs off the Steer at rest is enough to warrant the use. These are placeholder numbers for what happens on the road. Steering, Handling & Braking are improved by WDH use. The higher the Rear Axle spring capacity — UNUSED — the likelier the possibility of the Drive Axle losing tire patch contact when the TT moves against the direction of travel. Couple that to load of Steer Axle tire ground pressure and it’s NOT as good a driver. I’ve towed my 35’ Silver Streak with and without WD (plus anti-sway, a somewhat separate question). And I’ve been at fifty years this year. It’s not hard to tell the difference. With a Hensley hitch I can do hard emergency maneuvers at speeds higher than that where you’d roll over. At 55-mph. All day. Suspensions not as good on mine. My 2500 is at 50/50 FF/RR weight spread on the truck before I hitch. Front axle restoration and increased weight on the trailer tires means the rig stops faster than the truck will solo at 30-mph. Loss of Control accidents with travel trailers are mainly hard, gusting winds. It’s over in a few seconds. Once traction is lost at the pickup Drive Axle its over. MAYBE the truck based anti sway will kick in soon enough. You’ve been on this forum a long time. Same as me. But it doesn’t look like you’ve taken to heart the experience of those who know more than you. There are plenty of examples over on AIR of guys with a PPP hitch and trailer disc brakes. It’s almost a toss-up as to which leads in priority. Almost. Test. And reference it against 5’er weight scale tickets. The reason for that hitch type is it leaves the Steer at solo value. A little above. But not below. A 3P hitch replicates that and then totally eliminates sway. 5’ers will sway. Your trailer is constantly moving. It doesn’t track straight. Anyone can video the movement. A 3P tracks straight. Better than a 5’er. Live-axle, 4WD pickups are the least stable vehicles on the road. And worse when towing. That you can’t feel anything is a bad sign, not a good one. Pickups roll over in situations where cars slide sideways. A pickup will be the vehicle in a combination MORE likely to initiate a crash as the Airstream is faster thru the slalom behind a better tow vehicle than the truck is while solo. Put it on the CAT scale as above. Test braking as above. What’s the highest speed in a HARD wheel turn from the shoulder across to the median without rolling? 35? 40? A WDH is EQUAL in importance to both vehicles. (The hitch rigging). “Weight” is the level where the dummies argue. It’s the percentage of change which matters. And that is quite low as static values are what are entered in multi-part formulas. No different than questions about COG, or Roll Center. Small changes matter. Test. Last I checked both Hensley & Pro Pride both had money back guarantees. If you expect to travel all over the country it’s a dirt cheap purchase for what it does, even if the price were doubled. A fully independent suspension Tahoe or Expedition with their shorter rear overhang, better tire options and brake swept area are each a better tow vehicle than what you or I am driving. The bandaid needed (past proper truck loading) makes considerable difference. The crosswind load — alone — is the crucial factor. Test. .
BackOfThePack 07/04/22 06:33am Towing
RE: What's the truth about the trucking situation?

BackOfThePack 06/18/22 09:24am Around the Campfire
RE: What's the truth about the trucking situation?

BackOfThePack 06/18/22 09:16am Around the Campfire
RE: What's the truth about the trucking situation?

BackOfThePack 06/18/22 09:04am Around the Campfire
RE: What's the truth about the trucking situation?

Not getting paid is a norm. The driver game is maximum miles against accessory pay The companies play a shell-game with their job offers. In the end, it’s that one needs to be out 2-3/weeks to cover enough miles (with what little accessory pay applies) to consider truck driving “decent” in terms of income. 3-weeks is where income plus time-off can work out the best. Xtra-low personal overhead cost plus higher gross weekly income means more money saved than average Joes. (Get this right and the rest is easy). If you’re awake, you’re at work. That becomes (over time) an okay proposition, then it’s a better job than what many have to put up with back home. The one thing I’m a stickler about is time off at home. If I want 4/days, that’s how it is (more than that not much good). 3-nights is a minimum I’ve been gone 3-weeks. (“Time off” overrated as most do nothing past TV watching or social media time-wasting anyway. Can do that in truck). Three full days (4-nights) I can rest, see friends and keep a personalproject moving along. If home weather too hot or cold, stay out more. If nice, get thru house more often. Etc. Bottom line is simple: truck ain’t moving then no one makes money. Too many days off it’s too hard to keep 365-Days Average Income high. Trucking pays by the load, not by the day or hour. A driver isn’t in the mix OF LOADS everyone’s losing money. If the number of loads decline then just sitting kills the thing. (The weak link for driver: higher-expense spending and not earning). Live along major truck lanes and near manufacturing the options and money Is better. Live far off lanes, incomes fall drastically. Pull up a map of CONTAINER PORTS (inland).Too far from these isn’t good for any American. The railroad’s have put their money into this model. The Federal fuel tax hasn’t been raised in thirty years BUT the big boys needed those roads rebuilt for NEW big truck didtribution pattern from outlying new warehouse districts and DC. NOT business to business as traditionally. But didn’t want you moaning about higher personal transportation costs. So it was taken from General Fund (SS take raised earlier). Shell game. Trucking is now the other end where mainly finished goods are moved to a few giant retailers. Containers are how all but bulk commodity is moved (for what you need in day to day life). The “stuff” needed to make the goods arrives that way from overseas. Food is a little different, but not much. Women don’t cook, so “food” became processed (manufactured). Hauling 24-tons of “Italian” pasta from Texas (winter wheat) to NJ a familiar load I’ve carried, bagged, boxed and palletized to a DC (distribution center) in eastern PA and thence portioned to little straight trucks with smiling Luigi painted on the sides to head into metro NYC. Rural food-related trucking is just giant carts moving goods along the open air factory floor from one work station to another. The difference between AVERAGE jobs a driver could get in his area is how well he likes one versus another, otherwise. Less money with less headaches worth it to me. I prefer long-haul. Hauling “animal proteins” (slurry) on the Plains (beef) or rural south (poultry) to metro regional jobs with multiple stops daily (fast food and C-store delivery) are where my hats off to those willing to do them. The home every night jobs (No thanks). I’ve hauled dairy, but it’s very high hard miles (your Arkansas purchased milk may have come from New Mexico). Wall Street “financialized” every bit of the American economy it could. **** the consequences to average men if that has any weak points in the chain. FUEL PRICE CRISIS will bake out to who has loyal drivers past political crookedness (where most stuff happens). Not clear yet. The other part is where the fuel price (even after adjustment as pump price doesn’t reflect actual cost, etc) goes higher than value of goods shipped. That last part is where far rural homeowners will have screwed themselves. If the drive inbound to The Big City doesn’t have goods being delivered for sale, then the outbound trip can’t pay for itself. Relying on 401k and/or transfer payments are a dead-end. A visible end. (Spending and not earning) 4-5 major railroads the bankers hide behind call the shots for Americas economy of goods. Put thumb down on choke points. Trucking just follows along that as no goods by rail = no truck loads (raw materials on up in sophistication) to do final manufacture or assembly steps where trucks then finish the chain. Trucks are the final miles. Not any longer the intermediate step WHERE VALUE WAS ADDED. (Ronnie Raygun kept you distracted with Commie Scares as leveraged buyouts started and bankruptcies accelerated took it apart peaking in the 90s as Billy & The Blue Dress was just more Theater of Distraction from what really mattered). The New Service What’s upstream flows down. Or doesn’t. 1). Seaports by rail to interior rail ports. Containers outbound (less so by truck from seaports) 2). Truck volume shifts some stuff around. USA extends east to IH35. Ends. 3). Truck volume majority is ready-for-delivery to DC. The USA as Economic Activity Roughly the areas “stuff happens”. Income sucked into these from surrounding. Population aggregates which MAY be self-supporting; or as with Gulf Coast petro-chem goes to owners elsewhere. (Ha! Or Florida. Which couldn’t make do past three days as the whole state “survives” on transfer payments). — Trucking serves populations (retail), but that doesn’t add value to an economy any more than do hospitals. Separate wheat from chaff. .
BackOfThePack 06/18/22 07:23am Around the Campfire
RE: Setting up your house to run off your RV generator?

Gasoline: 3-6/month shelf life Diesel: 12/month shelf life Propane: Indefinite To get that out of the way, the problem is a gamble however conceived. What capacity (several 100-lb cylinders or larger) can be addressed somewhat. Design guidelines and rules exist. The function of an RV is to be (and remain) mobile. “More” propane and a TV with “more” diesel onboard than was factory-offered to be the storage tank addition “might” extend one’s abilities where high cost isn’t a barrier, but it’s still going to come to the most favorable climate over preparedness in any event Ability to run from NG isn’t something I’ve come across to power an RV as propane substitute. Using it to generate electricity to in turn be able to substitute wholly or in part is going to take a design/size/weight starts to get prohibitive. IIRC, the engine hour count I’ve seen on some 1980s-era Bluebird Wanderlodge diesel gensets was 12,000 or more. (500-days at 24; or 1k days at 12). 50A service = 12kW (equivalent max). An ONAN that size is $14,000-MSRP (rough; maybe $11k at dealer). Now factor oil/filter changes every 50/hours. And that the warranty is void if used to power a house in any fashion. 7-800/lbs. Fuel consumption is going to go from .5/gl-hr at half-load to .8/gl-hr at full load. All the numbers can be manipulated. But size/weight/consumption are all still a barrier beyond incorrect Genset spec for non-RV use. Use the RV versus the house, short-term. Acquire additional propane bottles with proper transport addressed (least likely), to power the RV. What solar could be added is high-expense with low reliability (long-term) before that systems shortcomings in less than ideal operating conditions. It’s genuinely the house needs to be addressed, not the RV (past maximizing its systems ability/capacity to ensure longest occupancy for a given power source). Natural Gas appears the best backup if that’s feasible. (Takes electricity also, even if remote). Use the RV as family Conestoga to get somewhere better. Warm, dry quarters with all other amenities in the preservation of dignity it’s highest value. Assume injury or illness, that value goes higher yet. The inputs to maintain those keep one’s independence greatest till the day they don’t is in a plan which combines greatest distances on the one hand, and maximum nights-aboard times X-persons on the other. Q: Better to have asked — and prepared; tested — what would it take to ensure complete freedom from any re-supply (food, water, propane & TV fuel) for a family with X-members over Y-nights aboard. Is it 10-nights, or is it 30? What are the differences? (In disaster planning for hurricane evacuation TV MPG — actually, any vehicle — won’t rise above 3-5/MPG . . and 150/miles from the coast is the minimum to access operating fuel stops). With a bare reserve remaining, how far could we go, and for how long? Promises to homeowners that, “be patient, we’re working hard to get the lights back on”, can become lies when two weeks turns into two months What MAY matter most — then — is leaving. (IMO, keep that option foremost). .
BackOfThePack 06/15/22 04:14am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Convert RV fridge to residential

"Electric isn’t even needed except for water pump and furnace. Get priorities straight." Your 3 way fridge won't run without electric (battery). Neither will lights. Without electric from either solar or generator, your batteries will eventually become useless and at that point, nothing will function in your RV. I've got my priorities straight. Electric not needed for lighting. Amp draw for 3-way ref/frz is minimal. Only furnace fan & water pump (which could be manual) have enough demand to warrant battery use. Have a look at 1950s trailers. The difference here from car-camping pre-war is the propane system built-in to service stove/oven, water heater, lighting, furnace, and refrigerator/freezer. Need & Desire aren’t the same. Priority is Propane System (and capacity) first, with Water System (and capacity) a very close second (as it could be re-filled from stream or well). **What limits self-sufficiency over time (X-nights aboard) is the determinant.** Solar is “nice”. That’s it. Besides high expense (and limited life) it has too many points of potential failure. No one stops you from having the additional system at its higher-cost, despite lower reliability and a shorter life if that’s the way you want to do it. I’ve solar on mine. Keeps a pair of batteries charged. But won’t change the time factor in needing re-supply. That said, I’m all in favor of maximizing each system. If I hadn’t shore power, then what? If I lost propane, then what? Lost even 12V, then what? A worthwhile exercise to avoid or delay having to abandon the RV for other lodgings (at the heart of why I’m no fan of motorhomes as the drivetrain/chassis — alone — does this regularly). — An example of this is retro-fitting an electric furnace to utilize the existing fan & ducting (CheapHeat, by Rvcomfortsystems). Solar has its place in the mix. Separate gensets really don’t (bandaid). Ones TV might be so equipped, but that’s not the RV itself (as one can lose its services separately from the RV). Propane gensets were once fitted to TTs (maybe still are), but their performance was lacking, to say the least. As a fallback it’s an expensive, limited-use component and likelier to shorten self-sufficiency even sooner. .
BackOfThePack 06/14/22 05:10pm Full-time RVing
RE: What's the truth about the trucking situation?

You walk into a ice cream shop, order a sundae. The worker tells you "That will be $4.50" but you only want to pay $3.90. Do we declare it a ice cream shortage? Due to a public health issue, where many people could stay home do their jobs, and get paid a lot of other workers, who can't take their job home, learned they deserve a larger share of what the business produces. And a trucking company can pay well, treat drivers good, but if what is often the case, the trucking company's customers treat the driver like something need to scrape off their shoe, it is hard to keep drivers. The “trick” to a good truck-driving job is one where skill adjunctive to driving is required. Tanker Flatbed Oversize — Are starting points to then find the niche in each which itself requires more than average skill for these categories. Not a great deal is involved driving dock-door to dock-door. LTL or TL. Dry van or reefer. Exceptions exist, but this is the basic starter job and is the majority of truck drivers. The three noted are where an assumption of basic skills have been learned (call it, time management + clean driving record) so a man with 2+ years experience can be assumed competent not to damage equipment/freight in any notable way as he acquires what is needed for loading/unloading and/or moving large, difficult loads. — This is where other companies might try to poach drivers from other firms. One becomes known by his reputation. In general, this is the grade to ascend to have a decent life as a truck driver. Shippers & Receivers are glad to see you arrive. Won’t tolerate their own bad employees if it upsets the civility of loads shipped and delivered. For the most part all job moves are lateral. But it’s best to get up the few steps available. .
BackOfThePack 06/14/22 04:41pm Around the Campfire
RE: Setting up your house to run off your RV generator?

A Generac with extra propane tankage sounds better. . Propane would be the worst possible choice. It is far less energy dense than gas, or diesel. Propane lasts longer in storage. Liquid fuels deteriorate fairly fast
BackOfThePack 06/14/22 04:25pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: What's the truth about the trucking situation?

There’s not a driver shortage and never has been. That’s the mega carriers collaborating to flood every region with THEIR drivers in order to cut rates further. In turn, that gets them permission to hire foreigners and expedite the green card. The sinkhole gets worse from there. The game is to undercut every system of support.
BackOfThePack 06/05/22 07:25pm Around the Campfire
RE: Setting up your house to run off your RV generator?

Unless weather were below freezing in the daytime, moving into the RV seems better to me. Most gensets (unless a $$$$ motorhome) are going to have a duty cycle and installation isn’t quite meant for running days or weeks on end. A Generac with extra propane tankage sounds better. With an attached garage and appliances chosen as NEEDS for the smallest area — the RV just outside — I could see getting by. I just wouldn’t care to try to run a house-sized kitchen and keep it heated or cooled versus using the RV and the attached garage as transition. I’d be looking at a man-door to the garage, not just panel upgrades, and a sealed floor that could stand up to heavy family use + pets without adding to the burden. Garage can be subdivided many ways (insulation) to “fit” needs. Spent some years on the Gulf Coast where hurricanes are an expectation. There aren’t any cheering good stories from those dumb enough to ride out no worse than loss of power. The size and duty-rating of a Genset (and fuel) to go for weeks is not, IMO, what is provided in an RV. Chasing fuel was 150-miles from coast and a full day of being gone. You’ve “lost” the house. Don’t lose the RV also. Minimize demand. .
BackOfThePack 06/05/22 07:05pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Convert RV fridge to residential

Propane systems are dirt simple, reliable & safe as well as cheap. None of which can be said for solar electric. Solar panels are nice when they work. Sort of like wind turbines. I’ve had them thirty years. Great marginal addition. 3-way reefer in current trailer is 20-years old this year. High hours of use. If one has problems, search for answers (badly-built trailers feature bad installations). Maximize each system to work well with the others. And, to a goal of being without re-supply up to X-nights-aboard with Y-people and Z-gallons fresh water. There is no point in overdoing that system which doesn’t matter when other supply causes one to have to move or to go to town. Fit the pieces together. There’s plenty one can do IF he wants to provide EVERY service via ONLY propane, or 12V or 120V (Upgrades & additions). Propane & Water are the essential systems in a camper. They are at the defining point of what is meant by “self-sufficient”. Electric isn’t even needed except for water pump and furnace. Get priorities straight. There’s nothing “simple” about solar electric. It has multiple failure points built-in. (When that happens, your 3-way will switch over to propane).
BackOfThePack 06/05/22 06:38pm Full-time RVing
RE: Best route in WV

Get yourself a road map and look at where you want to go. All roads are about the same. Get yourself a COMMERCIAL ROAD CARRIERS ATLAS to always be able to distinguish Truck Routes thru an area. Wider lanes, better shoulders, improved signage.
BackOfThePack 06/05/22 06:25pm Roads and Routes
RE: La Veta Pass (Colorado) with old and heavy RV?

La Veta was more exciting in a Class A at high summer circa 1976. The Dodge-powered rigs made it over, the Fords & Chebbies coughed to a halt. Plenty of big truck wreckers sitting alongside to get them over. .
BackOfThePack 06/05/22 06:22pm Roads and Routes
RE: Memphis Crossing

Coming from the south, IH-55. There’s no reason to go thru town to catch IH-40. I’ll assume you’re familiar, but for others who aren’t, the turn onto the bridge access is a cloverleaf. It’s tight & slow. One wants to use the center lane on the approach as both it and the right lane make the curve. (Speed limit signs are not advisories). This ANCIENT stretch of roadway is not like many places left, now). Need to be aware of potential traffic problems. Memphis can snarl in a hurry. This is the way I look at it as a truck driver. You can also cross to the south at Greenville, MS, as well as farther north at Dyersburg, TN.
BackOfThePack 06/05/22 06:17pm Roads and Routes
RE: Back before cellphones

I don't know how people enjoyed the RVing lifestyle before cellphones. How did you do the research required for multi month trips involving thousands of miles with all of the complications of weather delays & mechanical issues thrown into the mix? Today is easy. The basic route is plotted out. CGs are found on the fly, usually making a same day reservation a few hours from the destination. 1). AAA Triptik (Mobil Oil) — Atlas — Compass — Binoculars — Handheld spotlight — State road maps — US Park Svc Directory — COE Directory 2). Yellow Pages (any phone booth) — Oil company maps with their locations — Best Western or other motel chain directories — KOA Directory — State travel guides I today use an Army Messenger Shoulder Bag to carry this stuff (reproduction). My mother would fill the passenger footwell of one of those Chryslers or Cadillacs with her reference library of tote style bags. My grandmother used the backseat footwell. (We traveled weeks, they traveled months. Mexico, Canada and the US). Learning to travel by car 3-6/weeks at a time is science, and then the art of how you want to do it. It’s point to point. Not day to day. Clock matters a little, calendar not at all. The research was the rest of the year (assuming one big yearly trip). Magazine subscriptions. Newspaper articles. Friends and family. I don’t think anyones going to visit both coasts in one trip. So, arrive at an area and from one or two campgrounds day-tour the region by car. Make a few notes on where to stay on a future trip. (Can’t see or fish all of Colorado on one trip, etc) I’d say map reading was hardest (easiest to make mistakes which were stressful). Turn-by-turn even if experienced (notes made) you couldn’t do it without paying attention to compass headings. That’s planning from the night before: “x-miles W on US63 past Clarendon; T-L 1/2M past courthouse onto OK 667 for 6-miles . . . “ (you had to deduce actual miles despite distance aids as printed). An outline format, easily read at speed. Some folks not naturally good at directions. Inner compass plus time/distance sense. My grandmother would direct you in her kitchen by referring you to the SW cabinet on the NE wall. — You needed — as a man — two wristwatches in the event one failed. Your World War infantry or sailors navigation training was finally applicable (was a joke I heard often as a child, men comparing routes on leaving a campground or National Park. “Hold steady at 270-degrees for 18”, and then take the . . . “, how the joke unfolded.) Phones at camp office, sure. But by mid -1970s you plugged in a land-line at the service pedestal. (My 1990 has this exterior plug). Local almost free if not quite crooks, but you’d pay over and above standard fee for long-distance.). Bought me a Western Electric desk model against that day. Letter-writing, not just post cards, was an expectation. Mail forwarded to General Delivery was another. Gasoline credit cards were new enough. But having ones for oil companies not in your home region was another. So, Diners Club, AMEX and some others (not easily approved). The thing was TRAVELERS CHEQUES. Who would cash them? How much? What fee? (Having a floor safe in a premium RV was a regular option check). The REAL question was that you should ask, is, How did they do it without television? (It was a good long ways into the 1980s that nightly assumption was operable. Sometimes in aerial, sometimes on cable. Sometimes not at all. In the 1960s didn’t expect to have any service (why camp in or near a city; got that when back home). Reading was its own pleasure. Strongly encouraged as the adults expected to feel rested once parked somewhere for more than a day. I recall the hours after lunch as being enforced quiet (nap, draw circles in sand, chase chipmunks, read). Campgrounds often had a morning coffee hour, and maybe a camp fire a little ways into dark in the evenings. Local paper for sale at camp office. Clear channel AM radio at night. FM near big cities days after 1970. Rural AM was owned locally. Could be quite informative. Having a “campground CB” in the RV was another “thing” by the mid 1970s. Folks would ask the Q’s you’d expect — laundry, brake job, hair salon, catfish restaurant. (And tires. Always tires back then. Fuel pumps next). (Put a 70’s CB in my current rig. Gets out a few hundred yards with an on-glass antenna I can unscrew and store. Bigger and fancier ones elsewhere).
BackOfThePack 05/17/22 02:49pm RV Lifestyle
RE: Small trailer suggestions

I’m a couple of steps away from buying a small trailer. I like what I have seen of the [email protected] 320 and 400, but they are pricey, new or used. Does anyone have a suggestion for a similar type? I want small, preferably narrow and light. I have looked around at several brands, but nothing has jumped out at me. I’m just wondering if I have overlooked anything. — Why is “small” important? (They don’t tow more easily). — “Value” re money spent goes up in lineal feet increases. (There’s a minimum, basically, and also a sweet spot for length/money) — Inconvenience can weigh heavily after awhile. (Constant hard use ups the wear rate of interior). — Small capacities reduce boondocking ability (Meaning increased energy use to go back/forth from the store; propane supplier, get water; dump tanks, etc). — Vast majority of its life it never moves. That IS the way to look at it. The above is preparatory to asking: 1). How many years will you own it? 2). How many nights aboard annually? — The “price” of the RV is the total number of nights aboard over those years. Each night is worth = $$$ Shorter the period of ownership and lesser nights, the higher the cost of going camping. The typical RVer spends too much as he keeps it five years and spends maybe thirty nights aboard annually. Then trades for another stapled cardboard box. You’re say, age fifty and you plan to use this till you’re age 75? (That’s a MUCH better starting perspective). For a couple (even a family of five) a 28’ is a great size when it’s also quality. The type which will outlast your ownership. And there’s no need to buy new, much less buy over & over. My parents 1975 TT is still on the road with the second owners 17-years after they bought it. My folks had it thirty years. “Used” (when you’re in earning years) just means an annual list of upgrades to tackle as time & budget allow. May not amount to much, or maybe you want to maintain the higher level of OEM quality. TTs continue to go downhill from their 1960s quality. There are next to no true improvements save ducted A/C and distributed water-radiator heat. The classic layout is rear full bath, beds going forward, and kitchen area with all appliances over the axles. The difference from there (length) was how big was the lounge area. (Dinettes separate are wasted space vs closets/cabinets). A full exterior awning package is what makes for camping versatility past “capacities”. One chases shirtsleeve weather (or, from 40F to 90F) to make the most of low thermal mass (all TT). Greater clarity about NOW and SOME DAY will be of help. (Don’t discount being trapped by weather, days of rain, or being sick/injured. Don’t be FORCED out of the TT).
BackOfThePack 05/16/22 05:16am Travel Trailers
RE: Maybe getting a longer trailer

There isn’t much difference day-to-day from 28’ to 34’. It’s less of change than in going down from 28’. Tail-swing is always the challenge. Different floor plans or brands can place TT axles at a changed relative difference in distance from the hitch ball (tandems farther back tends to mean easier towing, but changed backing; not harder, a little stranger from get-go). “Wheel cut” is usually poor with straight Steer Axle (versus IFS). The necessary swing to have TT tandems at right pivot point can be pretty far (try a semi). As above, Practice is your friend.
BackOfThePack 05/16/22 04:45am Travel Trailers
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