Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Search
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'BackOfThePack' found 21 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 2  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Need some advice, gearing/fuel mileage.

According to the BSFC map for the 6.7 Cummins that Shiner posted on another thread the 3.42 pulling in 5th vs 4.10 in sixth yield very similar MPG while towing. 3.42's should yield close to 10% better fuel economy while running empty at virtually any highway speed. Again, according to the same BSFC map, towing with 3.73 gears at 65 mph should offer a slight advantage in MPG over either 3.42's or 4.10's. Empty the 3.73 will fall half way between 3.42's and 4.10's . . . "3.42's should yield close to 10% better fuel economy while running empty at virtually any highway speed" vs. a 4.10. Interesting. Not what I've experienced. Are you making these observations based on BSFC maps of the crankshaft output of a Cummins in conjunction with gearing charts? Or, are your observations based on BSFC maps formulated and based on on-the-road tests of production-ready, OEM Ram trucks? If so, I'd be very interested in seeing these. Could you supply a link? Thanks. Like I said, my numbers are based off the BSFC map that Shiner had posted. I just got back from making 2 highway trips where I was able to set the cruise at 45 mph and drive uninterrupted for both trips. The first round trip was performed in 6th gear at about 1100 rpm and the truck got 28.3 mpg. The second trip was performed in 5th gear at about 1400 rpm where it got 25.3 mpg. I would challenge you to do something similar with your Ram ..... I'd be absolutely amazed if the Cummins engine doesn't give very similar results.
BackOfThePack 11/06/20 02:29pm Tow Vehicles
RE: 75 Speed Limit - How Fast

I get the one car one semi crash, cars fault, but how come there's often multiple trucks involved? Must be all those good semi drivers taking their ROW. Did you hear me say truckers are all of them better? Same problem with cars: incompetents who shouldn’t be allowed over 40-mph. But that’d be both racist and sexist to enact. “Safety” isn’t safety when it conflicts with other agendas. I recently wrote a long post or two about CB (before my phone crashed). It’s worth the time and effort to have a GOOD installation. It’s mucho fun to call out bad truck drivers as another truck driver. Bad habit’s by many. The word constructions depend on how the job is performed (may be unfamiliar), but the intent is the same. As the consequences are worse (call his company or the state), it’s a familiar story. Daily. That gets things going on air. Legalities. Ask, “how to”, and it gets real interesting real quick. Take your job. Make it into one with the highest fatality rate with use of wrong procedure. (Seriously). There are many good students among the mass of fools. Believe me that we’ve saved your bacon more than once. And you never noticed. But the numbers of bad & worse truck drivers only increases. I’ve had them try to play chicken with my rig. On the radio I let them know it’ll be otherwise. This is America. They can go back where they came from. Or to hell. It’s up to them. .
BackOfThePack 09/26/20 08:59am Fifth-Wheels
RE: 75 Speed Limit - How Fast

The GOOD NEWS...you are in the Fort Worth area! Jerry Nope. I’m all over the US. With experience you can’t hope to match for vehicle type, weather, roads and loads. And it looks (again) with understanding of the rules you ignore when convenient. You one of them runs at too high a speed into a construction zone to “get ahead” of the big truck. Jam yourself in front of him as he tries to keep a reasonable distance? And you’ve attached your nose to the hindquarters of the car ahead of you. Who has done the same again, and again, seven cars ahead? No braking distance at all? The Midwest beats the South any day for intelligent drivers. As a class, they’ve all but disappeared (farmers & ranchers used to be among them; not any more). Connecticut is — generally — the state where skill & vehicle & ROW best come together. Indiana doesn’t have the worst drivers. But they’ll take advantage of the lower truck speed limit to cut over too late, brake, and exit the highway. Enter a single lane. Even accelerate to do it. If that truck driver had to brake to avoid hitting you the “accident” won’t be his fault. If it’s me, I know how to keep my truck upright and lane-centtered to come to a controlled-stop. It WON’T be with you jammed under my right Steer tire. You’ll be somewhere other than on the road is my guess of how it’ll go. Unlike you I have a family who expects me to come home. Also unlike you I have devices recording all that I do. A medical card. HOS regulations. I must daily certify the vehicle is safe to operate. Etc. And I’ve gamed out how to control a situation with the least damage. Whether or not you go home is up to you. Know the rules. Stay inside them. For an RV’er, ones at the helm of the LEAST capable vehicle out there. With the least capable driver (he’s always the new guy). On a two week vacation you MIGHT have worked out the rhythms by the time you get home. Every one believes that they are good drivers. The differences between best and worst are tiny. At speed, it’s all about vehicle separation. Use ROW — and separation — then the habits become natural. Having a trailer behind you shouldn’t occasion ANY CHANGES WHATSOEVER. But RVers are bad drivers. How do I know? Just read here about “engine power”. And NOTHING about steering control or antilock trailer disc brakes. “Payload” and “Tongue Weight” and “Tow Capacity” and other non-existent (imaginary) “concerns”. What’s the RVer answer to what they think is a bad TV? Get a worse one. . .
BackOfThePack 09/26/20 08:36am Fifth-Wheels
RE: 75 Speed Limit - How Fast

Wow, talk about it is all about me attitude. First of all if you are in the right lane, you need to yield to a vehicle passing you in the left lane, you just can't bull your way into the lane, same on returning to the right lane. Well if you are driving defensively you are looking down the road and not beyond your ability to slow or stop for traffic issues. Lastly if you pull from the right lane into the left lane and strike a vehicle already there, you are at fault, not the vehicle already in that lane. Wrong. 1). A vehicle passing at a 7-mph variance will, with some minor slowing on the part of the travel lane vehicle, get around the right lane vehicle quickly. 2). But those on his tail have ZERO right-of-way. It’s illegal to block the left lane. No exceptions. Tail-gating and lane-blocking aren’t a defense to being knocked off the road. Illegal passing, by definition. The road design IS the rule. Faster traffic NEVER has ROW except in the confines of a legal pass. I’ve had several hit me this year as I LEGALLY moved left. Thought they could speed up to block me: (1) They were illegally in the lane to begin with; (2) “Blocking” can be a go-to-jail offense. Wake up. I spend my days maintaining the MAXIMUM distance I can (traffic volume); slowing from a cruise speed by 10-mph TO GET OTHERS AROUND ME FASTEST. When the idiots jam up ahead of me to pass a slow mover, I back off and wait. Only them do I pass. Alone. Had an extremely slow big truck get onto the Interstate yesterday at a distance that only emergency braking could solve. I signaled and moved left. LEGALLY, as vehicles illegally tailgating DONT EXIST. You NEED TO EXPECT THAT (what your father SHOULD have taught you). Had someone hit your car, but you had no insurance? Same principle, YOU shouldn’t have been on the road. The other guy could be drunk and ran a light. Your fault. Anyone thinks a big truck driver should roll his vehicle (as that will happen) versus move into the left lane is a fool. Left lane confers ZERO right-of-way. All risk assumed except within the confines of a legally-executed pass. YOU CANNOT OTHERWISE BE IN THE LEFT LANE. Your commuter miles = ZERO highway experience. A guy running the legal minimum of 45-mph MAY decide to move left. You’re running 77-mph AND ARE OUTSIDE THE PASS ZONE you’re screwed. What speed you “want” to run has ZERO to do with responsible driving. High traffic volume means you don’t get to run the upper limit. “Overtaking” isn’t passing. Has no defense. IS a traffic offense. A big truck needs more than 350’ clearance between him and anyone else. It’s when he needs to move to the left lane. And does. Do you believe it smart, safe, prudent or legal to cut between him and the vehicle he’s passing (from the right lane)? Did you enter a rural Interstate and fail to have BOTH a 5-7/mph leeway PLUS 350’ ahead of a big truck? Otherwise, it’s an illegal maneuver you’ve made. You CANNOT force the travel lane occupant to have to brake or steer to avoid. Period. Passed a big truck and re-entered the right lane ahead of him without a football-field length difference? (Same thing). None of what I’ve written was any mystery 50-years ago, even 40. ROW is everything. And it’s defined. Your “presence” where you aren’t supposed to be, can — and will — get you killed. Know the rules. A turn signal is A SIGN (which you must observe) where ROW has defined who may do what (when). I’m not required to sacrifice my life for yours. And I won’t. Same as you. .
BackOfThePack 09/26/20 07:55am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Curious: difference between a WD hitch and Hensley Arrow

A Hensley-patent hitch is night & day different. Makes all other types obsolete. Sway is guaranteed eliminated. Handling problems (solutions) are now limited to the TV, and even MPG improved as trailer DOES NOT move out of alignment thus reducing a huge number of minor steering corrections (especially with adverse wind direction). A 5er is a pig to tow in comparison. Top-heavy & unstable. Any winds and it’s time to stop. Set the hitch as with any other (same as 5er): Steer Axle same weight value solo or hitched. The trailer cannot move out of alignment UNLESS the TV initiates a turn.
BackOfThePack 09/26/20 07:26am Towing
RE: Near tragic event!!

Air pressure gauge & TQ Wrench EVERY MORNING. Dedicated tools. Not borrowed from other tool boxes. This is their sole use. (Second to none does not equal no TQ Wrench) As a member of that same club, the above is correct: something else somewhere has some shortcuts in it. Dig em out. Where’s the video of you coming down the steps? (Great description).
BackOfThePack 09/26/20 07:14am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Highway 69 from Dallas to Big Cabin, OK

It’s fine. Some parts of it improved. I’ve no problem using or recommending it to drive in & out of Dallas on 75. I don’t always use it. Depends on where in D/FW I’m heading or departing. Ones AVERAGE speed isn’t high AND the type of day + clock hour also matter. Bad weather it’s not a favorite choice. IOW, coming out of the mid-cities or FTW, IH35 to 44 in OKC isn’t any real penalty due to distance because of higher average. “Weather” seals it. As a vacationer, 69/75 IS the more scenic & pleasant drive avoiding both OKC & Tulsa. Neither of which is bad, but why bother? Wave to JIMNLIN as you go past Big Cabin. .
BackOfThePack 09/26/20 07:08am Roads and Routes
RE: S. Florida to S. California

Do this for a living. And, as you’re just looking for variety, my big truck route (follow exactly): Out of Florida: Toll Roads to IH75N 2). IH10-W to the 15/67-N Bypass at Biloxi, MS to US49-N all the way to Jackson, MS. 3). Then, IH20-W to the IH220-W bypass at Shreveport, LA 4). That, then the very few miles to intercept IH49-N to Texarkana, TX. 5). From there, IH30-W a dozen or thirty miles to intercept US82-W to Wichita Falls,TX. 6). From that junction, US287-N up to the Armadillo. 7). Thence, IH40-W to SoCal. This IS the pain-free route .
BackOfThePack 09/20/20 10:09am Roads and Routes
RE: Best route to go through Jacksonville, FL

East jams up at either end. I now just go straight thru in the big truck (expect slow speeds thru old downtown due to road design). West not at all worth it.
BackOfThePack 09/20/20 09:55am Roads and Routes
RE: Atlanta.... any issues

Just use IH-20. Compared to IH-85 farther north, it’s a cakewalk. Charlotte, NC to ATL one of the worst drives in USA The “bad” part of ATL is 285 N of where IH20 intersects, either side of town. The loop around the south side has its problems, but nothing like up north.
BackOfThePack 09/20/20 09:52am Roads and Routes
RE: Wishing to stay out of I-95S through Washington DC

Traffic Volume, is what makes a heavy slog. No avoiding it in the Bos-Wash. It’s fatiguing as hell. So, unless you’re set on destinations in those areas, IH81-S to IH64-E is the way around & past (use Richmond bypass). Longer is better. (Staying on 81 farther south is a crapshoot). .
BackOfThePack 09/20/20 09:42am Roads and Routes
RE: Route advice.

Trucks use US-287. Can’t be beat for ease of use. (But “scenic” it ain’t). Denver isn’t that bad. It’s hitting rush hour that’s a pain. Run IH70 East to Limon and use 287. Extremely nice road. Even the very short Oklahoma sections cleaned up. At Stratford (TX), use US-54 to Dalhart. Otherwise, IH-25 can’t be touched for scenic perspective. From Raton onwards, it has another magic worth experiencing. Coming out of the hills to an Interstate is a problem all over the USA. Don’t sweat it.
BackOfThePack 09/20/20 09:33am Roads and Routes
RE: Best route

Round about way but take I-64 west to I-81 North in to PA and hit I-84 East into mid Conn and head back over to I-95 etc. You miss it all. As a truck driver it’s my proven choice. From south of IH-64, IH-95 is easy all the way to Miami (or Florida’s Turnpike). But never use it north from Richmond until past NYC. It ALSO avoids the mess the Carolinas have become. Avoid cutting W too soon. The bypass south of Richmond (and 64) are wide open running all the way to 81. When ones destination is between Richmond & NYC, not much helps. IH-287, sure, but there’s ALWAYS choke points and back ups somewhere. FWIW, run 81N to intersect IH-87 N of 287 and use IH-90 to get into New England works fine. Turn south when desired. All the traffic is on the coastal plain. The above is the back-thru-the-woods alternative. Much nicer in every way. Just takes longer. There’s plenty to see and enjoy in the high density areas. I’d never avoid it and miss those. Most US history is inside that. . .
BackOfThePack 09/20/20 08:51am Roads and Routes
RE: 75 Speed Limit - How Fast

My stop distance is 700’(all big trucks). If you enter a highway without leaving me 350-500’ OR MORE you have done so illegally. If have to use the the brakes, all the more so. . A football field is the minimum SAFE entry ahead of a big truck. You NEVER want a big truck behind you. Ever. Travel speed of 62-mph, be doing 70+ coming down that entrance ramp. That’s the design. . Use slowing/braking to merge carefully. You should act as do big trucks when your exit is ahead. Not less than two-miles before the exit, move to that lane. Signal on at 4/10s of a mile out. Drop to 55-mph or lower before entering exit. Continue slowing to 45-mph OR LESS by using brakes and only then start to accelerate up to the side road speed. Why? Because your rig is only under control with mild acceleration. This is the road design. Entry & Exit are isolated lanes. When you make a pass, begin it by accelerating in the right lane and move over 300-350’ out to the left lane (wait for other traffic to clear; hang back) at a speed a good 7-mph OR MORE than the other guy. Stay on it PAST your trailer rear being 100’ ahead of his front bumper. (Cancel cruise during this; Resume only after re-entering right lane). This is the road design. Use it. (Traffic overtaking you has exactly ZERO RoW). . I shouldn’t need to tell you to get down to temporary limits (45-mph construction) as soo as you see the signs. Same with being 5-under on ramps or flyovers. I have “maybe” two extra-hard braking events in a year of driving all over the USA at 100k-120k miles per year. How about you? My pickup is about ready for the second set of replacement tires now that it has a quarter-million on it. One brake job before I bought it. All else original. 15-mpg average pulling my 35’. (You?) If you think it’s because I drive slow, you may not be the sharpest knife in the drawer. There far more detail than is outlined above. (As with your job: took time to get good. Commuter miles don’t count as experience on The Big Road). How slow am I if you’ve passed me three times in 300-miles? (There’s method). Ideal: Smooth, easy, no lane-changes or braking. Steady. (The problems are emotional). The fix is in skill acquisition. A plan. Discipline. For you . . . not your passengers. Average MPH as planning tool separates men from boys. It is First Principle in how to write a Trip Plan. A good truck driver can give you an ETA with 15” on each side, for a destination1,000-miles or more away. It works being on vacation. As known limits produce freedom from worries. .
BackOfThePack 09/11/20 08:50pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: 75 Speed Limit - How Fast

Very seldom that semis run at their speed limit, now days the limits are 65 autos, 60 trucks most semis run between 65 and 70, autos 65 and 75. Running 20 mph below the flow of traffic in the right lane, basically setup a rolling road block.Rolling roadblock? That's what that passing lane is for. If people would drive like they should, i.e. move over to pass and then move back over to their original lane, it wouldn't be an issue, but instead you have people that pull into the right lane and just sit there, even when they could get back over. There's your rolling roadblock. Makes a person wonder how they keep the autobahns in Germany from being endless car wrecks, when you have people driving 100+mph and other people doing 60-70 mph. Oh yeah, they know how to drive. Well when you consider about 90% of the interstate system is only two lanes in each direction, a rolling road block is a vehicle going significantly slower than the general flow of traffic forcing all to move to the left lane to get around them. If the volume of traffic is higher than moderate many will have a difficult time fitting into the left lane. The reason the Interstates were made to this expensive design is exactly that: the right-hand lane has precedence. It is the travel lane. The passing lane exists only to facilitate a legal pass so that traffic in the right lane remains at a higher average. Extended travel in the left lane is illegal by definition. The left lane has NO right-of-way whatsoever. The exception to that is during the close confines of a pass. One cannot be in the lane otherwise. Only the stupid argue they’re going faster. Traffic volume determines average speed. Irrelevant how fast one WANTS to go. Next, It is illegal to otherwise block entry to the left lane. Period. A pass is by one vehicle at a time. In a big truck I put my lane-change signal on per requirement: as I am ready to start the move to the left lane. I AM NOT, “asking permission”. This makes the cretins mad as reading was never a required subject. Have even had a few hit me this year. No concept of what is ROW and who has it (situation). Emergencies happen. Smooth 67-mph traffic in travel lane and no left lane illegals, a suddenly stalled vehicle — or worse — means traffic diverts around into the left lane. It means the big trucks are coming over as that Is the road design. Right lane (of two lane) ROW is an absolute. All other rules start from there. If you are in the left lane, you will be at fault. Assuming you live to tell about it. As to RVs, none of you have the brakes you need to do over 60. The trailer electric drum brakes will have ceased functioning before you come to a full emergency stop. If you are passing much of any traffic, you’re the handicapped vehicle that screws it up for everyone else when things go wrong. 58-62/mph covers a range where other traffic flows around you as you learn to manage that situation . The big trucks are at 64-66/mph and all the stupids run in packs above that. NEVER be in any crowd, ever. Vehicles ahead, behind and athwart means you’re in the RV with the picture title of, “Can’t fix stupid” . It isn’t hard to learn how to stay away. How to drop off 5-10/mph and get them gone. . A football field or more. What is your FULL emergency stopping distance? Why haven’t you measured it? One-half of that (including 100’ extra for reaction time) is your dead-minimum. Where you pullout to pass. What you use to re-enter the right lane. None of this was anything controversial 50-years ago. Everyone knew. The two-lane highways made passing difficult. Headlights & Hand Signals. CB Radio. It was coordinated. Cooperative. Someone’s slowly passing you YOU ARE OBLIGED TO SLOW MIGHTILY TO GET THEM AROUND YOU SOONEST. That’s the Interstate design. The way rules flow from First Principle: The health of theTravel Lane. Stay below the flow. Manage (and help) others get past. Stay separate. Plans stops in advance of leaving, and execute those legs one-at-a-time. .
BackOfThePack 09/11/20 08:12pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: I'm installing rigid insulation on the underbody.....

Skirting is a better choice. Heavy-vinyl (snap). Blocking air movement is that which “insulates”. Otherwise, avoiding moisture collection (accelerating rust & rot) is a genuine problem to solve when installing underfloor insulation
BackOfThePack 09/11/20 07:21pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Question about tires

The door sticker is for best ride, but for towing heavy, you need to air up to get full use of tire load capability. Like mentioned full pressure in rear, and try about 42 in the front. A bit of trial, to know what handles best, after all hooked up and towing. Jerry Nope! That's not right. The inflation pressure on the sticker on the door frame includes the max load (GAWR's) and unless specified otherwise, includes the towing limitations published by the vehicle manufacturer.That may be technically accurate, but I know from plenty of experience that airing the tires up closer to their max, yields a significantly safer and more stable ride. My Ram 1500 recommends 41 PSI on both axles, which IS enough for stable and safe towing. Put the tires to the value stated in the Load & Pressure Table (and vehicle manufacture range) according to Cat Scale axle readings. . More than necessary DOES NOT make for better steering, handling or braking. . That problem is addressed by improving the pickup. Better shocks, polyurethane anti-roll bar bushings and a rear Panhard Rod. (HENDERSON'S LINE UP for a rear Trac Bar). (Where a rear anti-roll bar doesn’t exist, choose the smallest. But upsize the front is then a requirement). Using more tire pressure than NECESSARY to counter movement of the body against the suspension only makes loss-of-control MORE likely. Dead-wrong approach. Some sidewall movement flattens the edge at which tires lose their grip with tall aspect LT tires for given steering inputs. A warning. Weight-adjusted pressure IS the target. Incorrect hitch rigging is the usual BAD BASELINE. Over inflating tires on top of that only makes a bad situation worse. But is the norm. This is yet another aspect of using a Hensley-patent hitch. The trailer stays in CONSTANT alignment with the tow vehicle until TV steering inputs are introduced. The signals the driver is reading (the feedback) are not muddied by the trailer. The TV deficiencies are at the fore. Prominent. Obvious. Getting passed close by a big truck at a far higher speed? With a Hensley you don’t feel it at the steering wheel until his bow wave hits the rear of the truck. Then you’ll know how sloppy that pickup really is. Body getting pushed sideways from the rear (and your too-long receiver length adding leverage) with tires straining against the suspension while you’re sawing at that wheel to keep the pickup ONLY in its lane. The trailer is wondering what all the fuss is about. Address the real problem. My pickup is nearing a quarter-million. Now finishing first replacement set of tires and nowhere near 4/32s. 50/50 Town & Country. Pressures don’t change hitched or unhitched as truck doesn’t change that much with 1,200-lb TW (450-lbs ea approx to Steer & Drive) when I connect the 35’ travel trailer. Get the baseline first: WDH correct. Test the tire pressure rise after Cat Scale check (having started with dead cold readings at dawn). 1.5-hrs steady-state Highway on cruise control. No lane-changing, accel or braking while below the traffic flow. Glide to an easy, easy stop at rest area. Check values. 7-8% rise is fine. More needs a bare PERCENTAGE increase. Least amount. Find lowest. (Equalization value) Your vehicles ride on AIR. Completely empty or fully-loaded, you want THE RANGE of the tested MINIMUMS necessary. ( Note to CR: “payload”, “trailer tow capacity”, etc are advertising. Advice. Legal requirements are door sticker Axle/Wheel & Tire Limits). . .
BackOfThePack 09/09/20 05:46am Towing
RE: Scale weight, confused by to much data

And; the Anderson IS NOT a WDH. Can’t shift weight as required. It’s a bad joke. The original Reese Dual Cam is still better than all the variations since. The Hensley & Pro-Pride (both same patent) are worlds away better. Makes all other types obsolete. Cheap at twice the price. All the advantages of a 5’er hitch without the penalties. (Which are many). Sway eliminated Guaranteed. .
BackOfThePack 09/09/20 04:47am Towing
RE: Scale weight, confused by to much data

At a CAT SCALE location (get phone app). — Initial Weigh: Adjusted (true) TARE Weight. With only driver aboard with fuel topped off and ONLY permanent gear aboard (remains until truck sold); put truck across scale. Park, and retrieve paper copy of scale ticket at fuel desk. This is the genuine Empty Weight. The truck will never weigh less than this. Take a pic of door sticker showing TIRE, AXLE, WHEEL Ratings. Note range remaining FF/RR. The difference between Scale Values and Stated Limits, is the necessary information. To set a WDH, go to the CAN AM RV website and find the magazine article link on, “How To Set Your Torsion Bars”. Use this process (enlist a friend) and do this work at home to get the basics of the WDH in the ballpark. (Trailer needs to be level within itself; carpenters level across doorway after hitch adjusted; in the bubble). Truck may be tail-down slightly; not important. A). To use the CAT Scale to further refine WDH settings: The Rig loaded for a camping trip, where 1). Full fresh water & propane on trailer 2). Fuel topped off at truck stop arrival 3). All passengers aboard I). First Scale Pass With WDH as well-adjusted as per above article. II). Second Scale Pass The same; except that WDH “slack” (no tension). III). Third Scale Pass The same; except that trailer was unhitched & parked. — The short version of “correct” is that the Steer Axle value in I & III are the same. — Go over loading: any gear in pickup bed must be secured against movement IN ANY DIRECTION and MUST have its weight ON OR AHEAD of the Axle center. — The closer the pickup is to a 50/50 FF/RR weight balance before hitching the better will be the final results. (Too much spring capacity is detrimental; a penalty. ) A WDH works by spreading the FORCE exerted by the long lever represented from hitch ball back to trailer axle center. TW is pretty well meaningless. Has NOTHING to do with “payload”. It’s a placeholder number, only. — The ideal is a distribution of TW force by 1/3-1/3-1/3 across Steer, Drive and Trailer Axles. Instead of concentrating this pounding at one point, the load is spread across the whole of the rig. —In practice, about 70-75% remains on the TV, 25-30% on the TT. This IMPROVES steering, handling & braking. — True TW shown — The hitch, once closed is now a steering component. Understand the centrality of this and all the dumb RVer misconceptions go away. . The trailer is CONSTANTLY moving in and out of a three-dimensional plane aligned with the TV. It is in rotation (oscillation), and both loads AND UNLOADS the hitch ball over time (fourth dimension). — This is also how one sets correct tire pressure. Get a cold overnight reading before leaving home. Make corrections (inside vehicle manufacturers door sticker range) from the Load & Pressure Table for that Load Range Tire. Not over or under. Get it dead-on. (Do NOT use tire pressure to alter handling feel. Get better shocks, poly antiroll bar bushings and rear Panhard Rod). — Besides 90% failure rates to set hitch rigging correctly, wrong tire pressure is a default in a campground check of rigs. Both are vital. — Getting hitch ball as close to rear bumper as possible (length of secondary lever; cut shorter & re-weld), it may be necessary to use a hitch specialist to also set hitch ball HEIGHT with pinpoint accuracy. Inches count. Seriously. That second lever is what forces rear TV tires sideways. This is the ballgame: those few square inches of the Drive Axle Tire contact patches. — The hitch rigging is Equal in importance to the selection of the two vehicles. A 4WD solid-axle pickup with a box-shaped trailer riding on leaf spring suspension is the worst towing combination on the highway. Take the time to iron out the details. One is looking for two things: 1). For a given tow vehicle, tire pressure valued empty and loaded/hitched. 2). The full range of WDH settings for a given combined vehicle. In both cases, these are narrow from low to high. Make notes. Keep records. Get the baseline, final adjust, and check at least annually. .
BackOfThePack 09/09/20 04:17am Towing
RE: First time tower - multiple questions

Some good albeit some debatable info from slowmover. But don’t overthink it. Keep it to around a 5klb x24’ long trailer and you’re good. Pump your rear tires up to max, let the self leveling suspension do it’s thing. I’d test that first to see what it’s good for. Adjust the trailer brakes and wdh once you get the trailer on and go. One tricky thing is you can’t just adjust wdh by height as the self leveling won’t let the rest squat. Numbers are the baseline. Why is that difficult? The entire decision tree is predicated on acquired REAL numbers from a certified scale. Check them across the continent or three years from now. Problems arise, components wear, etc. The scale is first-step. A control. The formulas for prediction (engineering) appear intimidating. They aren’t, yet it’s easier to just make sentences of them. The WD Hitch WILL spread TW force across three-points. How well it does so gets down to the last bit of finesse. (Trailer dead-level; that’s where most need help as unequal axle loading is a HUGE trailer-braking and sway-contribution problem). There is range of what works. It’s not much of a spread. But it must be discovered. The narrowed range is now THE range. Other numbers fall away. Set the baseline. Formula. Drive, and adjust. For WDH & Tires. Work together. All else hangs on this. (And NEVER over-inflate tires past load requirements, ESPECIALLY on the Drive Axle (rear axle; scale nomenclature). Those tires losing contact with the roadway IS the definition of what happens in a loss-of-control accident.) The tow vehicle rear axle TIRE CONTACT PATCH is what’s at stake for resisting trailer side-sway. Stiff springs (more than what’s required) and over-inflated rear tires (past load required) . . . is the dangerous advice given to the ex-brother-in-law you truly hate. Resisting side-sway WORKS when ALL tires are involved. (WDH “equalization”). Auto-adjust rear suspensions need to be disabled (fuse, if no switch) before setting WD. See manufacturer instructions. The weigh scale is ALSO a control for this. .
BackOfThePack 08/03/20 08:25am Travel Trailers
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 2  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2021 CWI, Inc. © 2021 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.