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 > Your search for posts made by 'BenK' found 168 matches.

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RE: 2021 F-150 Brake Controller problems

Rube Goldberg like IMHO these IBC’s PWM, sure it is great and a buzz word for decades…but…for a trailer brake system ?!? There is a lot of inductance in the run from the TV bumper plug to the brake magnet (even if the trailer has hydraulic/disc), PWM doesn’t make much sense other than to impress & bragging rights thereof… If the IBS’s are PWM, then an oscilloscope will be needed and again why PWM ? A DMM won’t be able to read PWM above 10Hz, so it might read an RMS, but not true voltage output. Maybe since highly integrated…the ABS system computers might need to have a PWM input in order to make their decisions, but another why make it so complex ? Can see the why if that ABS is also highly integrated with a TV anti sway system, but the trailer brakes do NOT…can NOT respond that quickly…hysteresis is too large through it’s harness & magnets (have seen potential patents trying to make trailer, shoe/drum brakes have an ABS function…ditto that same white paper for trailers discs systems). Didn’t go over to that F150 forum and that approx 15 page discussion on this issue and repeat for someone to test out a P2/P3 that bypasses the IBS. If that works and is solid without whatever issues the IBS displays….nailed and low cost vs any OEM fix Last checked P2’s were around $120-$150 bucks on sale (my P3 was stolen recently) and a few hours making up your own harness. ONly issue can think of is that if your dash ‘Tow/Haul’ button is on, the computer systems might get confused trying to talk to the IBS…and have a poop fit by tossing an error code…because the IBS answers…huh?
BenK 10/14/21 01:16pm Tow Vehicles
RE: 2021 F-150 Brake Controller problems

Guessing that these fairly new 'highly integrated' OEM brake controllers are running in 'open loop' and the master/slave & it's lookup tables are a mess...not all the time, but occasionally gets into a state that the +100 computers get confused...ABS, traction control, sway control, engine/tranny computers, etc Suggest to you all on that forum to consider a trial where one would install a P2, but leave all the OEM TBS wiring alone. A dedicated trailer brake controller only deals with ONE external thing...the trailer brakes. Yes, it has inertia sensors, etc, but it is a standalone system NOT tied into the complex TV's systems. Betcha the problem goes away
BenK 10/13/21 11:47am Tow Vehicles
RE: No start

The list of potential causes are many… Bad ignition switch Anyone of the other things that must be okay before the relays will turn on Bad harness. The brake pedal switch and/or the auto tranny’s ‘start’ contact/switch that only allows it to move out of park after it starts. And a big ETC…divid and conquer is the way to isolate without a scanner. So have your truck scanned for codes. Another too commmon and folks (owners, mechanics and tech’s) don’t know… Have you jump started another vehicle recently or not too long ago? While you with the good battery vehicle had the engine running while they cranked the bad battery vehicle ? If yes, maybe your alternator diodes are fried or holes punched in the silicon that will soon fry the whole diode. What happens is that the bad battery vehicle’s starter motor draws hundreds to over a 1,000 amperes to start (called inrush current) and that will compromise the diodes in the alternator. Maybe not the first time, but for sure punches tiny holes or melts portions of the silicon in the diode. That then will have the alternator not charge well. Made worse when the ambient is hot. That also has intermittent charging of the battery, which will spike the voltage that then punches holes in the battery plates. Vicious cycle and have seen folks replace first the battery…to have it ruined by that compromised alternator diode…to then change the alternator…which then has high current draws from the dining battery…
BenK 10/10/21 07:04pm Tow Vehicles
RE: 2-1/2” Hitch extension?

Hey Grit….da…you got me…hadn’t thought about that…
BenK 09/30/21 07:26pm Towing
RE: 2-1/2” Hitch extension?

If me, just buy the shortest and cut it down to whatever length you need/want...drill new holes as needed then paint it with zinc rich paint
BenK 09/30/21 10:12am Towing
RE: An upgraded option for the half ton Pickup crowd

Uncle Lechleitner taught me about truck ratings when was a teen…. He owned a custom SS commercial kitchen firm and hauled SS with the shop flatbed trucks and his 3/4 ton GMC. Said no 1 ton, as everything is the same between them where it matters and costs less because registration/etc costs less because it is NOT a 1 ton. Back then, there weren’t as many ‘option packages’ and the option box sheet was long He ordered the highest GVWR and RGAWR 3/4 ton, but with ZERO options…AKA stripper model. Cardboard interior door panels, sheetmetal floors, manual windows, manual tranny, no spare, no tinted glass, lowest option tires/wheels, no radio, etc. That stripper had the highest cargo or load rating. He said utilities and the government ordered their vehicles that way. As every option weighed something and took away the cargo rating pound for pound. But…today…most everyone orders every option available. Marty is the only guy on this forum that I know of, that has a ‘stripper’ pickup…or even knows what the heck what a ‘stripper’ is. It may NOT be the lowest GVWR & RGAWR if ordered correctly
BenK 09/29/21 07:04pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Tires

No image shows up…think your formatting isn’t correct Here is the RMA image showing where the repairable area is and where it NOT recommended to repair. https://i2.wp.com/greentirestore.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Tire_Repair1.jpg?fit=717%2C290&ssl=1 Make no matter how many miles is on the tire. Risk is a blowout from flexing at the stress raiser around the repaired area Plus the tires speed rating is no longer warranted by the OEM once a tire has been repaired. Especially high speed rated tires.
BenK 09/29/21 06:50pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Tire pressures matter....lol

There is more to it than just air pressure, though important, it is just part of the whole system Designed a tire stand for either or both DOT & RMA back while in college. Also working as a tire monkey to both pay for college and support my track/rally/etc days. Part-time working at a small industrial controls company and one of the full time engineers was having problems with a contract and the owner/boss knew my love of automotive, so he assigned me to help. That turned out to become my project. Specification was to replace an old hydraulic tire stand they had been using for decades and our controls the best at that time (solid state controllers & power converters). Precision was our big sell. The old guy already did the calculations and ordered a refurbished GE locomotive traction motor and I had already designed the stand (1" & 1/2" plate with many vertical sections made up of square & C-channel...with tons of gussets). The drum that tires were in contact with was about 5 foot in dia and had a textured surface. That was directly driven by the traction motor. The tire/wheel was mounted on a 5 axis arm and each axis had its own electric motor. The tire/wheel could either drive the drum (5th axis), or freewheel on the drum. They sent us about 5 tire/wheel combos for our testing to their specification. "Weight" (how hard #1 axis would push onto the drum), "Slip angle" (#2, off center of rotation), Accel/Deccel, Speed (#4 and hardest was rate of change they spec'd out) and can't remember the others Two acceptance tests by 'them' and they showed up with a trailer full of tires & a tire machine to change them. Their testing stunk up the whole shop/welding/testing/stockroom with burnt rubber smell. So the boss told them to do at night. Since only part-time, still in college and trying to be a boy-racer on a very limited budget...LOVED that they were working after everyone was gone. Made friends with them, and they even put my wheels on our machine (they hadn't accepted it yet). Learned tons and loved their new to me, IR heat gun (big compared to the ones we have today) Another engineer and I even made them a custom adjustable strobe to freeze the image. Cool being able to see the tire sidewall's wave and ripples during high stress at 100 MPH. Back on topic... Rim width vs tire section width vs aspect ratio plays huge on how a tire behaves. Pressure affects the amount of sidewall 'bend' and the rim affects the amount of tire 'bend-back'. Aspect ratio plays with them all. Searched for what wanted to discuss and here are some images & comments https://www.discountpartcenter.com/tiresafety/TIREWIDTH.gif width=680 This shows the relationship between rim width and tire's flex points (part of the sidewall bend-back) https://cdn.discounttire.com/sys-master/images/hf4/hb3/8805656461342/EDUrim-width_sidewall-flex-wide-narrow.jpg width=680 This is another image showing rim with and aspect ratio. How the tires 'bend-back' 'rolls over' during cornering or sweeping curves. When that tire straightens back, the wheel to tire will 'wallow' back and forth until normal. https://www.rimringz.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/rim-to-tire-fit-1024x451.png width=680 This image shows how a tire bead fits on various rim widths. From too narrow, just right, to too wide. All tire specifications will list a range of rim widths for 'that' tire. Too narrow well have more sidewall bend-back and provide the best or highest level of ride quality. Wider will have little sidewall bend-back and will be the poorest in ride quality. Plus, narrower rims cost the OEMs less than wider rims. So, it depends on more than just PSi, but the rim width vs tire section width vs aspect ratio. The more sidewall bend-back, the softer the ride (higher ride quality), but it will have a larger slip angle and has to move the wheel back and forth from side to side during corner or sweeping curves. Less sidewall bend-back will have the smallest slip angle and responsiveness greatly increased, but harsher ride Why I like wider rims. My 1996 K3500, 7.4L Suburban has LT265/75R16E tires on 10x16 alloys and LOVE it that way. Most think it rides like a truck...which it is and the way I like it. It also is super responsive to steering input. Steering input happens *NOW*.
BenK 09/25/21 06:25pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Need help - Weight distribution hitch installation pics

You are getting close, and suggest lowering the hitch head one more hole. As from the picture...it is pointing up a bit. Tongue pointing should be level at it's highest pointing and prefer pointing slightly down As for washers, they tilt the head backwards, towards the trailer, and that makes the trunnion bars point lower. That in turn provides more 'potential' tension you can impart on the trunnions...meaning more weight can be transferred to the TV's front axle...which at this time don't think you need to do
BenK 09/25/21 05:44pm Towing
RE: An upgraded option for the half ton Pickup crowd

Over the years on this and other forums over ‘half ton’ and always thought those Unicorn half ton HD’s were for folks who insist on only a half ton, even though they are in 3/4 ton territory… Dad was one of those after killing several station wagons hauling for our specialty grocery/butcher shop. After picking up some cases of turkeys that spilled on the rugs…mom had it and told dad to get a truck…as the station wagon was also our ‘car’ for family trips. Went around and around with dad till uncle bill said just order that 1980 Silverado C10 with the “Big Ten” option. Today’s 1500HD half ton. Even had to install aftermarket, 1 ton helper coils on the rear axle. Today’s Timberns or air bags Dad was also a ‘ride quality’ guy, but had a good reason…his back was fused after too many back injury’s carrying a beef quarter. Marketing knows all that and continues the legend with half ton towing a stripped space shuttle commercials
BenK 09/21/21 10:45pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Truck not getting fuel

Change the fuel filter Sounds like it is partially plugged and going to fully plugged soon. It WILL kill your fuel pump over time, if not already close to failing A good rule of thumb of mine is to change my fuel filter at about 1,000 gallons of fuel Edit…of course for a gasser
BenK 09/21/21 05:35pm Tow Vehicles
RE: An upgraded option for the half ton Pickup crowd

Understand that most are more into the looks & bells/whistles, but towing is my main criteria for an TV…know am in the minority on that and also on ‘go’ power vs ‘stopping’ power (I’d take the one with better braking & handling over fast). Not to say ‘go’ isn’t important to me… Thought for a moment that Toyota might have offered a Unicorn like the old F150HD & GM 1500HD with +5K RGAWR (for a few years, the GM1500HD had a 6K RGAWR, but not full floater like todays +6K RGAWR) and they both came with LT class tires That's my question too.
BenK 09/21/21 03:02pm Tow Vehicles
RE: An upgraded option for the half ton Pickup crowd

Rear GAWR ? Still "P" class tires or did they go "LT" class tires ?
BenK 09/20/21 01:28pm Tow Vehicles
RE: New Truck question(s)

There are other thermal safety set points to save it self from harm Think towing in double OD is hard on the automatic *AND* the engine. As the 6.2L is an aluminum block designed for ‘cars’ that rev higher and is NOT available on higher rated trucks (3/4 ton and up), whereas a half ton is more car these days than truck.
BenK 09/18/21 12:33pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Need help - Weight distribution hitch installation pics

Suggest one more thing before tossing more money at the situation… Drop your WD Hitch head one bolt hole down on the shank…as long as there is ground clearance, which from your pictures, says there is Then reset up everything as before and the goal is to have the trailer slightly pointing down from level. That I has been the biggest help in solving others who have asked Second is to transfer more weight off of the TV’s rear axle and over to the TV’s front axle. Not a ton of weight, just a bit more. Good luck!
BenK 09/18/21 12:26pm Towing
RE: Broke my hitch pin today

This one that time2roll posted is a 6” raise/drop This one has a 14” raise or drop and should or hope to be enough drop/raise for the OP..but it is $509 bucks https://www.bulletproofhitches.com/products/3-0-heavy-duty-14-drop-rise?currency=USD&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjwyvaJBhBpEiwA8d38vIh1RGQVS4nPXyjDRAMYUgHPc7RTSnz42-Jjmj-t3i8TY8h0oUREvRoC1VgQAvD_BwE https://www.bulletproofhitches.com/collections/3-0-hitches/products/3-0-heavy-duty-6-drop-rise Just a random search. Not exactly common or low cost. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0066/1975/8661/products/HD3014-NEWPINS_grande.jpg?v=1600281003
BenK 09/12/21 04:21pm Towing
RE: Broke my hitch pin today

A traditionally designed receiver has much going on that many welders do not understand. The cross tube (square or round) is a torque tube that twists from the WD Bar/Trunnion WD hitch bar lever arm (moment). That twisting is transferred to the side brackets that are bolted (some are welded to the frame rails, like the 4Runner etc.) That then lifts the TV’s rear axle and transfers that to the TV’s front axle That cross tube is also twisted to a higher rate, unloaded and twisted the other way while driving (dynamic & cycling loading) The why it is NOT recommended to drill/weld/etc on the cross tube. That creates stress raisers that WILL form micro cracks to propagate into cracking clean through the tube wall. Have also thought that some receivers might have the cross tube of higher grade metallurgy & possibly hardened Hogging out the receiver pin box hole and shank hole has consequences too. Like reducing the cross section of the shank. Add that this OP’s setup is a 3” receiver box and a 2.5” reducer inside that receiver box…which am assuming allowing movement during the drive. THAT will create higher loads on the receiver pin box & shank. Admit to having welded and/or drilled on the receiver end brackets, but after serious noodling of how the moments present themselves to that area. Tens of thousands of miles and no problems (don’t we all say that?)… If me, I’d get a 3” shank. Or the OP can change out the 3” receiver to a 2.5” receiver. Either way he is in about the same money. Have zero experience with 3” receivers/shanks and ask if the WD Hitch head the OP has now will fit either 2.5” or 3” shank ? Assuming it would, but not sure…
BenK 09/12/21 04:14pm Towing
RE: Drop Down Hitch

Zero info to make a decent recommendation and just this opinion... "SUV" covers a lot of ground and hoping you have a true SUV (derived from a pickup frame) and too many 'think' their CUV is a SUV. CUV's are derived from 'cars' and most all are monocoque (unibody). So if you have Forester, it is a CUV derived from the Sienna minivan and if older Forester, they were derived from a Camry. Edit...sorry, Forester is a Subaru, meant Highlander. Other CUV's confused with SUV's are CRV (Civic), RAV (Corolla), etc Then the types of SUV's from plain to fully loaded. Meaning, does it have auto ride height ?...that can make it harder for a newbie to setup. Full time (AWD) or true 4x4? Some full time has a viscus 3rd member, which has some problems towing heavy and in the mountains or twistie's...working that 3rd member to overheat. There are other things you will need, or should look into. #1 is side mirrors if the trailer is full width. #2 the tow package and if you don't have it...you might add an AUX ATF cooler as a min (assuming you have an automatic tranny), but there are more 'stuff' that comes with an OEM "tow package". #3 DO NOT tow in OD or double OD, but best to check your glovebox manual on that #4 Glove Box manual towing section. Read it several times and then again to familiarize yourself with your TV's towing metrics. Biggest point is how the TV should 'drop' after it is setup and on that, mainly the front TV axle/fender #5 Get an IR heat gun to check everything before you leave home. Again when you get there (even during the drive). As HEAT is the biggest enemy of towing. Be sure to check all four tires and several places on each tire. Know those places and repeat those places each time you check temps #6 TV's heat rejection system and if the radiator hasn't been flushed in over 5 years, do so BEFORE leaving. Check the serpentine belt & idler (assuming a used or older TV) #7 Know your TV tires PSI range for driving empty to fully loaded & towing. On that, get a good tire pressure guage. #8 JRscooby's recommendation is very good for trailer orientation on setup Good luck ! Post back on how it went
BenK 09/08/21 12:32pm Towing
RE: GM and others shutting down production.

I'm a free market and a capitalist...but... There are times when intervention is needed to protect those being bullied. Like Martin Shkreli of the Turing Daraprim debacle and the Poster Girl is Heather Bresch of the EpiPen debacle...where they, in a pure capitalistic manner, raised the price on life-saving drugs...just because they thought they could up the price from a few hundred bucks to thousands of bucks overnight. That is when one of our socialistic protection agencies, The SEC, took those two to court and won. Shkreli is still in prison and IIRC Bresch resigned. As for government mandated min wage...I'd prefer to let the market decide, and competition is the greatest leveler. A mandated min is a 'on size fits all' and doesn't work. As a $15/hour min wage in big cities is not going to help (many already are there and even higher), but in a small, rural town...the line to apply for a job paying that would be around the corner. The great and common leveler for those foreign countries (socialist, communism, dictatorship, etc.) has happened (USSR) and is currently working its way through China (albeit that government has a tighter hold on citizens than USSR)...and that leveler is discretionary time & money. For once the population reaches that...they expect much more freedom that they gave up to 'help lift their country up from the depths of poverty' As for production shutting down...one big component mentioned earlier, but decided to list some images that is happening all over the US port cities. https://s.hdnux.com/photos/01/17/26/30/20801047/3/1200x0.jpg width=680 This is a China port https://cdn.farmjournal.com/s3fs-public/styles/840x600/public/2021-06/2021-06-16T174332Z_2_LYNXNPEH5F0RI_RTROPTP_3_HEALTH-CORONAVIRUS-USA.JPG?itok=odSmvPcR width=680 https://s.hdnux.com/photos/01/17/26/26/20800925/3/1200x0.jpg width=680 https://s.hdnux.com/photos/01/17/26/26/20800919/3/ratio3x2_1200.jpg width=680
BenK 09/04/21 01:31pm Tow Vehicles
RE: GM and others shutting down production.

Lost that battle...several times while still working... When the corporation was noodling outsourcing manufacturing (a $17billion per year revenue corp)...argued to executive staff that we were paying them to build up their infrastructure & become a competitor...lost that one. Next battle was when they were noodling outsourcing manufacturing design...lost that one too. CEO came over to my office (around the corner from his) and sat down...oh, oh...he said keep up the good work, but he (was also the board chair) said the stockholders demand reducing cost...added: "at any cost" and he got it, but said "they don't care, nor do they understand"... Next was over outsourcing our engineering design...this time made a HUGE stink and almost got fired (divisional GM's yelled at my boss), but the CEO and I had another talk...and his comment was that the executive bonuses were based on quarterly performance. Both revenue growth and stock market performance...while 'they' had an outlook farther than the current or next quarter...years outlook vs our stupid quarterly outlook Then the huge manufacturing campuses were built by our money...they switched location on us and forced us to build another one 'over there' and took over that first campus. "We Americans" paid 'them' to become our peers. First in manufacturing, then design, then in raw everything from initial conception to shipping finished products to 'us' over here. All the while paid them to build & produce things they would have taken several decades to get up to that level. Too many...most...blame the US Government, but so misplaced...it is the shareholder demanding the "cheapest at any cost" and "higher stock prices"...which is "us" the citizens of America... Too bad we don't have the know how/technology/workforce/ability/desire to produce these chips in the US.Sadly, one of the biggest reasons they outsource a lot of these parts is the cost. I'd love to see 100% of our products made on our own turf, but the costs would skyrocket. We think prices are high now..... I'm sure they have the technology but let's face it, local labor costs a lot more than foreign labor.
BenK 09/03/21 10:37am Tow Vehicles
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