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 > Your search for posts made by 'Bobbo' found 352 matches.

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RE: diplexer needed?

Here is a thought. If your coax from outside to the back of the antenna switch has enough slack, put a 2 coax wall plate next to the antenna switch and move the coax to the top (or bottom) connector on the 2 coax wall plate. https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/05a71093-9e0e-4236-9a47-b8eadc3cb189/svn/white-commercial-electric-coaxial-wall-plates-dual-f-connector-wll-plate-64_1000.jpg width=160 Run a short coax from the bottom (or top) connector back to the antenna switch plate. Put a short coax jumper from the top coax connector to the bottom coax connector. With that short coax jumper in place, you have the same setup you have now. Take that short jumper off and you have a home run coax from the power inserter/receiver to the coax outside the RV. Just check to be sure that you DO have a home run from that coax connector to the outside connector.
Bobbo 08/20/19 07:43am Technology Corner
RE: diplexer needed?

It depends on how the coax was wired in your trailer. 1. There are separate SAT and CABLE coax connections on the outside of the RV - should work fine. Just be sure you are using the correct coax connection. 2. There is a single coax connection - this goes to the back of the antenna switch plate so that switch can select either cable or antenna. This won't work for your satellite. You need to run another coax cable in parallel to the existing one. That connection on the back of the switch plate will not allow current to pass. My first RV had a single coax cable, and I ran another. My current RV came with two coax inputs.
Bobbo 08/19/19 08:09am Technology Corner
RE: Difficulty getting the tow ball to release from hitch

:E Oh my gudness, it is the Intern net Spull chuck sundrom... Get a life.. My wife once got an email from her medical director (an MD) with a couple of misspelled words. In her response, she corrected his spelling. Her next email from him, a couple of days later, had EVERY WORD misspelled. She said it probably took him an hour to compose.
Bobbo 08/14/19 07:52pm Travel Trailers
RE: Electricity? Never touch the stuff

Before you have this done make sure the electrician knows what you need. It is not a normal 220V circut it is two 110V. There have been several posts with pictures on this issue. If you install the wrong one it can cause severe damage to you rig. Cough, cough. Literally EVERY 4 wire 240v circuit is made up of two 120v circuits. You only get 240v if you use both hot wires instead of a hot and the neutral. You are obviously thinking of a 3 wire dryer outlet. That has two hot wires and a ground wire, but no neutral. That is what destroys many 30 amp RV's. An electrician sees the big 30 amp outlet and assumes it is a 240v dryer outlet. If there are 4 wires to the outlet, you are good.
Bobbo 08/14/19 01:38pm Tech Issues
RE: Power

Thank you everyone for the replies I will look into just replacing the gfi with a regular outlet to see if that may be the answer, thank you for the feedback, Ron. This is the most dangerous solution you could pick. Please reconsider. If it is tripping the GFI, you have not found "the answer." You are merely masking the problem, a problem that can get someone shocked, or even electrocuted.
Bobbo 08/12/19 07:58pm Tech Issues
RE: Winnebago Pesticide Policy

Anybody know Winnebago's position on nuclear power?
Bobbo 08/12/19 07:55pm General RVing Issues
RE: gas line interferes with drain plug

I got one of these. It is a tilt-head ratcheting wrench. The head tilts to fit the angle of the plug, then ratchets so I don't have to remove it while using. Works like a champ. Be sure you buy the size that fits your plug. They do vary. Tilt Head Ratcheting Wrench https://channellock-weblinc.netdna-ssl.com/product_images/320684/320684/56fd855669702d32b400006c/super_zoom.jpg?c=1562090920 width=640
Bobbo 08/12/19 07:53pm General RVing Issues
RE: Towing speed

slower should get better mileage, but it doesn't. As long as the transmission isn't always shifting. Your point about the transmission hunting is the explanation. You do want your set speed to be far enough above the shift point that a slight rise or small hill doesn't make it downshift.
Bobbo 08/09/19 07:59am Towing
RE: Towing speed

I ran a test with my previous RV, then repeated it with my current RV, and got the same results. I have a 1000 mile trip I take regularly. (Memphis to Colorado Springs to visit my sister.) First RV: driving 70mph I got 6mpg, driving 60mph I got 9mpg (a 50% increase in gas mileage for a 14% decrease in speed). This was a 32' Class C on an E450 chassis. Second RV: driving 70mph I got 8mpg, driving 60mph I got 12mpg (a 50% increase in gas mileage for a 14% decrease in speed). This is an Airstream travel trailer. I assume that is almost entirely due to wind resistance. So, my personal speed limit is 60ish. I say "ish" because most people drive on a 5mph division, 50 or 55 or 60. I like to drive at a slightly different speed so they don't "wolfpack" around me. I actually drive at 62mph. That way, everyone driving 60mph, I slowly pass. Everyone driving 65mph, slowly passes me. But, they don't bunch up around me.
Bobbo 08/08/19 08:28am Towing
RE: Initial information gathering to increase solar on roof

I am attending the Alumapalooza at the Airstream factory next May. I have an appointment, the week before, at the factory for them to change my single panel to 4 panels, upgrade to an MPPT controller, and add a disconnect switch between the panels and the controller. This will be my last season with a single panel. (I don't trust my local dealer to do this right.)
Bobbo 08/05/19 07:54am Tech Issues
RE: Have I been doing it wrong all these years?

On flat roads Tow/Haul mode really makes little difference. In hilly areas, it keeps it in lower gears longer (or sooner if it is downshifting) for more torque to pull up the hills (or slow down going down the hills). Translation: less shifting of gears. Since what causes the transmission to heat up is the unlocked torque converter during shifting, the tow haul mode significantly reduces transmission heat in hilly areas because it shifts gears many fewer times. If you don't want to use Tow/Haul mode all of the time, at least use it in hilly areas.
Bobbo 08/03/19 05:50am Towing
RE: Can’t turn house battery on after using generator

Did you ever figure out what the mystery switch on your dash was?
Bobbo 07/30/19 07:24am Tech Issues
RE: If you had a month...?

Last fall we spent 6 weeks wandering about the 4 corners area of AZ, UT, NM, and CO. This fall we are going to spend 6 weeks wandering from ME, to the Canadian side of Niagra Falls. (We are both retired so we DO have a month to wander, whenever we feel like it. We choose the spring, before schools let out, and fall, after the schools take up again.)
Bobbo 07/29/19 07:51pm General RVing Issues
RE: Electrical Management Systems questions

Mexico and other electric pros, Slightly off-topic question. When I purchased the RV, I specified to the dealer that I wanted the (separately purchased) Progressive EMS-HW50C hard-wire system installed as first in-line for all coach input, after the power cord but before the automatic transfer switch. I just yesterday was examining photos I took of all components and noticed that they have it wired after the tfer switch, so that coach input goes through tfer switch, and then the output (either shore power or onboard Onan 5.5) becomes the EMS input. (I should have deduced that by seeing gen output readings on the EMS control panel for 3 years...??) My question is, should I have it rewired to first in line, or leave it as is? As you can see from the preceding posts, there is disagreement. I believe you need to leave it as is. Others feel just the opposite. My suggestion is to read the rationale that each side has put forward, and make your own informed decision. Don't leave it as is because *I* said that is safest, but don't redo it because someone else says that is safest. (We may both get some knowledge if someone answers my question above about what harm can be done if the EMS is after the transfer switch. One that will be stated is that it needs to be before the transfer switch to "protect" the transfer switch. Now, you have to decide if you would rather risk the transfer switch being damaged from bad shore power, or risk everything else in your RV being damaged from bad generator power.) I really hope some will answer for the other side. I would like to be convinced by their arguments, but in 13 years of RVing, I have not been yet.
Bobbo 07/28/19 08:12pm Tech Issues
RE: Electrical Management Systems questions

Hi Bobbo, I can see a use for EMS with 50 amp. With 30 amp--not so much. I have superior surge compared to what is available and use an Autoformer (boost and buck) to take care of low voltage. I do have a way to limit my demand to 80% of what is available, so on 15 I limit to 12, 30 to 24, and 50 to 30. An EMS to me would simply be another potential failure point. I always check voltage under load and polarity before plugging into an unknown source. Differing opinions are what make life interesting. You follow your muse and I will follow mine. If one is paranoid about the extremely unlikely chance a generator could somehow fail in a damaging way, have at it and wire your EMS to include it, as outline in the many responses above. Thank you. I think I will. And while I am at it, I will allow my paranoia to force me to carry fire extinguishers too. (BTW, rather than call it paranoia, I prefer to call it being cautious. Maybe overly so, but I have never had a severe problem if I was being overly cautious.) This is an open question to all who think the generator power should not go through the EMS. I have heard many times that it was not necessary. My question is, what harm can it do? If it is even potentially helpful and can't be harmful, then why not? If it can be harmful, how?
Bobbo 07/28/19 07:46pm Tech Issues
RE: Electrical Management Systems questions

I don't see the reason to use an EMS downstream from the generator. You already know the voltage from the generator. The generator would stall out before voltage became too low. There is also my pet peeve about EMS. The low voltage disconnect is far too low. I'm not comfortable with running the roof air below 107 volts. Because generators, being made by man, can and do fail. I don't want the electronics in my RV subject to the generator failing in a GOOD way. Murphy's law says that would not happen for me. It is too easy to let the EMS protect from a generator too. As far as the generator stalling out before the voltage becomes too low, you are betting your electronics on that. I am not. What if the generator fails by providing voltage that is too high? What if the generator fails by providing power that is not 60Hz +/-?
Bobbo 07/28/19 08:04am Tech Issues
RE: Electrical Management Systems questions

Build a bonding plug. Instead of building a bonding plug build a bonding dongle that will allow you to make full use of both 120 vac receptacles on your Honda EU2000i. First buy a 30 amp RV female pigtail like this ... ... and a contractor grade 15 amp male plug like this ... Wire the 15 amp plug to the pigtail and when doing so wire the plug's neutral to ground pin as shown in Bobbo's picture above. Plug the dongle into one of your EU2000i's receptacles and your trailer's 30 amp main service cable into the dongle - your genset is now bonded but you can also plug another device into the genset's second receptacle, even a fan to help cool the genset as I used to do when my genset was sitting in the back of my truck. That's an interesting concept. Make your own BONDED 15a to 30a adapter. Dryfly, you asked Planning if he routinely used his bonding plug. I am not Planning, but I use my bonding plug every time my RV is plugged in to the generator. I do not use the bonding plug if using the generator for anything else.
Bobbo 07/28/19 07:59am Tech Issues
RE: Garbage disposal?

We use paper towels to wipe ALL solids off plates before washing to keep them out of the grey tank, and you want a disposal to more efficiently fill the grey tank with solids? SMH
Bobbo 07/28/19 07:48am Travel Trailers
RE: Electrical Management Systems questions

Build a bonding plug. About $3 if you do it yourself from stuff bought at a big box hardware store. 1. Replacement 3 prong plug 2. 3 inches of wire Open the plug and use the wire to connect the GROUND pin to the NEUTRAL pin. DO NOT CONNECT ANYTHING TO THE HOT PIN! Close up the plug and plug it into an outlet ON THE GENERATOR. https://www.jaycoowners.com/attachments/photobucket/img_312091_0_7795938a8297d326a216441a308be702.jpg width=640
Bobbo 07/27/19 07:04pm Tech Issues
RE: Can’t turn house battery on after using generator

I still have a mysterious switch that nobody knows what it’s good for next to the steering wheel, hahahaha. It’s above the jump starter that lets you start the motor off of the house battery. My previous RV had a switch identical to that. It shifted the power for the dash radio from the chassis battery to the house battery. That enabled you to listen to the radio while camping with the engine off. While not camping, you switched it back to the chassis battery, so the house disconnect switch didn't erase all of your presets. It was a 2007 Winnebago Outlook.
Bobbo 07/26/19 07:38am Tech Issues
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