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RE: Help/Advice - First time water damage repair
There are a variety of materials used and methods to build. Aluminum stud vs wood stud - fiberglass and sandwich panel sides vs stick frame, aluminum siding, and on it goes. There are a variety of roof materials and construction methods too.
I tore and old Citation to the bones and literally rebuilt every last bit of it.
(My psychiatric counseling sessions should be done in another couple years) :B:B
It will take you more time and effort to open things up to get at the affected areas than it will to do the repairs.
Be prepared to spend a gob of time on it. If you think you can do it in 50 hours, be sure to allot 250. Voice of experience here...
Do keep in mind that everything you cut out and fix absolutely must be securely joined to, or totally replace the original piece. These things bounce and flex a lot going down the road, and rely on everything being joined together as one integral unit in order to hold together.
If you want to see a very detailed picture horror story of a total rebuild, look at the link in my sig.
You will either say "Hey I can do that" or you will run run away!!
:B
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BobsYourUncle
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07/15/23 08:38pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Going longer
I went from a 27' no slides to a 32' with a 12' slide. Plus I have a 2' metal storage box properly built into / welded to the back frame, making me 34 feet.
I tow it with a Duramax extended cab one ton dually.
Pretty much a direct comparison to your query.
It weighs quite a bit more than my 27' did, I'd say about 7500 pounds running down the road compared to roughly 5000 in my 27'
I definitely noticed the weight difference, even towing with a dually. I can feel the extra weight back there. More tongue weight and increased drag on the hills.
At first I was a bit apprehensive, but it initially took me about 100 miles to relax and get comfortable with it and the extra weight, and I haven't looked back.
As for that extra 7'? Not an issue at all. Gotta watch the tailswing a bit more going in and out of gas stations and such, but the usual thing - common sense.
Maneuvering it is a non issue. It is easier to back up due to the longer distance from hitch to axles. I seldom have a pull through site, and I can easily blindside it into any spot I choose to put it. When in doubt, have a spotter, or get out and survey the path for obstacles, trees etc as you back in.
I would not hesitate to get another one, even longer.
I love the extra space the 32' offers, and especially the big slide. Comfort is far superior than my 27' was.
If you can drag a 27' around without a problem, a 34 won't be a problem either.
Gotta have a good TV for the task. I'm sure you have that covered.
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BobsYourUncle
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07/15/23 08:22pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Bacon: The Movie
Magical Mystery Bacon
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BobsYourUncle
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07/04/23 09:12pm |
Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
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RE: Bacon: The Movie
To Sir With Bacon
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BobsYourUncle
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06/29/23 09:25pm |
Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
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RE: Using the "Quote" feature
No
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BobsYourUncle
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06/29/23 09:12pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Using the "Quote" feature
Folks,
I spend quite... Snip
Barney
Agreed Barney, the posts get long and hard to follow. Thanks for this.
This is what I do to avoid all the repeat info, and to make it known what post I am referring / replying to.
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BobsYourUncle
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06/23/23 09:18am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Why is the Hemi Going Away
Best hemi I ever drove was a buddys 68 Coronet RT with a dual quad 426 4 stick. What a machine! Wind it up, sidestep the clutch and hang on!
Ok, I admit, the same friends 300 series SRT8 was pretty impressive too. And his current ride, a Durango Hellcat is quite the beast too!
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BobsYourUncle
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06/10/23 09:10pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Water pump sucking air
Does the tank have a gravity fill port on the outside or is it pressure filled from the water hookup point? If it's pressure filled from the water hookup point are you sure water is making it to the tank?
If gravity fill does water come out the vent hose when full? Or does it only spit water back out around the hose?
Gravity fill port outside the TT.
I fill it until it is right full, and coming back out the fill port.
100% for sure the tank was full to the top.
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BobsYourUncle
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05/31/23 04:18pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Water pump sucking air
Thanks for the input guys,
It was a while ago now this happened - I've been so darned busy that I have done nothing to the TT in a long time. Years. Shame on me.
I've made sure I have access to city water the past few times out.
The pipe from the tank to the pump is rigid, and although it easily lifts up out of the floor, I've not tried pulling it right out. I figure it should not be loose like that, it should be tight and sealed so water doesn't splash out the top of the tank.
Don, I do suspect something in the pickup tube in the tank. Wish I didn't have to drop the tank to get in there, but it's the only way. I have a borescope. I wonder if I could somehow sneak it in there, perhaps down the filler neck. Never thought about that until right now.
Thanks for your list John, I've never been in there, no idea if it has a strainer. I'd have to pull it apart. Valves? It was working,then stopped. Don't think any valves were turned during the time. Hole in pump inlet line? That is possible and worth checking. Pump is good, as it pressurizes with a hose in a bucket. Tank was full to the top, so that wasn't an issue. And it isn't running out the bottom.
Lantley, I could try to pull the line out of the tank and stick another in there, but I still concern myself with the apparent lack of seal there. It should be tight into the tank. I shouldn't be able to lift it up and down with ease.
I'll try to find the time to pull it apart in the storage yard to see if I can learn more about the cause.
Thanks all. :)
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BobsYourUncle
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05/30/23 08:33pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Water pump sucking air
Thanks for the replies, but as mentioned, the problem is in the tank between the pump and the pickup in the tank.
The pump is fine as I outlined above.
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BobsYourUncle
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05/30/23 08:26am |
Tech Issues
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Water pump sucking air
I have a bit of a head scratcher with my TT.
Suddenly one day my water pump started just running on. It runs steady and only a little water spurts and sputters out of any tap. It appears to be sucking air.
It does this with a full fresh water tank. It's not the pump, the problem is on the pickup side in the tank. When I disconnect the tank pick up at the pump and put my winterizing hose on, and put the hose in a jug of water, it pressurizes and the pump stops running.
The feed pipe out of the tank goes straight down into the tank through the floor from under my bathroom sink, right close to the pump. I noticed that I can take that pipe and easily lift it up a long ways and down in the floor. That should not be happening. It seems something has broken off / come loose in the tank.
I'm not 100% sure what it looks like inside the tank for the properly functioning water pickup. I've never had the need to take one apart... until now.
I'm assuming I'll have to drop the tank and see if I can get in there to determine if something came apart.
As long as I'm on city water, all is well.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
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BobsYourUncle
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05/29/23 08:09pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Favorite Cooking Quotes
I like cooking with wine.
Occasionally I put it in the food.
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BobsYourUncle
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02/20/23 06:39pm |
Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
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RE: Install "Generic / Text Only" printer on port
Can you possibly do a workaround by selecting Microsoft Print to PDF as your printer? This will invoke the Windows save to PDF menu.
Then you have a digital copy of it which can be printed from anything, anywhere, as Adobe Reader is free and works with any PDF document, allowing you to physically print to paper from any printer.
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BobsYourUncle
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02/09/23 07:28pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: Replacing Water Heater
I did a repair on a friends 5'ver a number of years back. He had a 10 gallon tank that died in a CG we were both staying in. He bought a new unit at the local RV place and I swapped it out for him.
The tank itself was ok, so I kept it, thinking I would repair it an swap mine out, going from 6 to 10. I wish it was that easy.
As mentioned, physical size difference.
For obvious reasons, the 10 is bigger. It requires a bigger opening to fit in. This requires surgery on the wall of the RV to provide solid framing all around to screw the unit in.
On mine, I didn't have enough extra width and height to make it an easy conversion. I would have had to carve up a partition, do cosmetic repairs and more, so I scrapoed the idea.
However, if you have enough extra width and height inside, and you're willing to enlarge the opening of the outside wall, yes it is doable.
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BobsYourUncle
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10/17/22 09:24pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: RV style AC attic duct work - what is it called, brand etc
The foam board I mentioned has foil on one side, kraft paper or similar on the other.
It is typically available at suppliers of home finishing materials, such as siding, roofing, insulation and the like.
I'd forget the big box stores such as Lowes, Home depot. They cater to the home handyman more than the tradesman.
In Canada, there is Kaycan, Gentek, Mitten Vinyl, Monarch, Royal and a bunch more. This is the best source for these kinds of materials, but only if it's the product geared towards renovation siding etc.
The V cuts in your pic work for folds, but difficult to achieve. Using and aluminum brake with gentle clamping pressure will work just fine.
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BobsYourUncle
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10/06/22 07:52pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: RV style AC attic duct work - what is it called, brand etc
John, I can't directly answer the question for sourcing the original product, but I could offer a suggestion for fabbing your own.
There is a construction product called Fome-Cor. I used to use it extensively years ago when I was doing reno siding on old homes. It is a quarter inch thick foam with perforated foil on one side, kraft paper on the other. 4 feet wide by 50 feet long, and it comes in a 2 foot increment fanfold.
If you have access to an aluminum brake, like the 12' 6" one I carry on my work truck, you could cut this product to size, run it through the brake and create your own duct. One side would have an overlapping flap that gets taped together with foil or duct tape.
It would be flexible enough to sideways flex it to a trapezoid shape so it could be flexed to insert into the narrow opening of the trusses, then returned to a rectangle shape. You could further insert rigid foam blocks on each side, at the trusses, to help it retain its shape.
I know I could do this as described, but you need a brake to do the folds. The brake has to have a gradual cam lock system to put gentle pressure on the foam board, not a snap lock system which would crush it.
Just thinking out loud with this idea, I have always been one to create my own things when none are available...
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BobsYourUncle
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10/06/22 07:36am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Why not jack trailer under the spring plates?
I always jack under the spring plates and never give it a second thought.
I usually use a squat bottle jack, take it up far enough to get the wheel off, done.
All this hooplah about it'll bend your axel, bend your frame, wreck this wreck that.... Horse Puckey!
Consider how much any RV flexes, bends, heaves and dips on the roads we drive on. It's a hundred times more than lifting an axel a couple inches.
Take it to a tire store and watch how they jack it. Under the spring plates...
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BobsYourUncle
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10/02/22 06:44am |
Tech Issues
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