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 > Your search for posts made by 'Boomerweps' found 65 matches.

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RE: Discoverer AT3 XLT

Batteries have a build date clearly marked on them, often a punched hole type, for warranty purposes. Look closely, then decide. IMHO, if you have any questionable battery symptoms, change it. Otherwise, wait. Most batteries, in average temperature conditions, last 5 years but many go 7 years, IME.
Boomerweps 05/21/22 09:07am Tow Vehicles
RE: Drill motor for stabilizers

Noise from drill or impact gun in a campground during setup or tear down. 1st world problems. Rarely in the dark. More noise from yippy dogs.
Boomerweps 05/15/22 08:24am Travel Trailers
RE: Drill motor for stabilizers

Cheap cordless drill from Harbor Freight, on sale. $20 +/- one battery, so I always charge it while loading out for camping. You don’t need the impact action.
Boomerweps 05/13/22 08:43pm Travel Trailers
RE: Purchasing first TT, need a bit of sanity checking advice

To answer your final question: Yes, you were stupid UNTIL you realized you were a bit out of your depth, posted here, and ran the math for yourself. So congrats on that ;) In giving new by RVers purchasing advise, I always recommend using the Travel Trailer’s GVWR in decision making math. That way when you really load it up (or your wife does), you don’t get into overloading arguments (been there, done that). Also try hard to keep that around 80% of your tow vehicle’s rated towing capacity. That stops you from frequently towing at or over the various capacities of truck or trailer. I won’t rehash the whole story but my first CAT Scale weights showed me overweight on my SUV (2008 Explorer) rear axle & my trailer axle by near 200# each. Not earth shattering but my SUV and trailer went on a weight reducing plan that included no fresh water in the tank, no firewood, not much extra stuff for visitors, and less most everything. Bought a stronger tow vehicle (TV)(F150) shortly after the beginning of our 2nd RV camping season. Bought the trailer to ~90% match the Explorer capacities and it worked but a weak TV. Side note, in general: A good trailer brake controller (TBC) is a must. A good Weight Distribution Hitch (WDH) is a must on a half ton truck towing a Travel Trailer at half or more it’s tow capacity.
Boomerweps 05/11/22 05:01pm Travel Trailers
RE: 30A Surge Protector Recommendations

I put the hard wired Progressive Industries HWC-30 in my TT. I cheaped out and didn’t get the remote display. Mistake. Only problem is it does it’s job well. No ground, inverted polarity on the mains, NO POWER passed. No workarounds. Had low voltage at one place, it kept shutting off power. I suggest having a bypassable plug so you can get power in those odd cases IF you determine the risk is worth it. As IAMICHABOD stated, there IS a bypass. It is part of the remote pendant that you didn't get. There were NO switches on the remote display whenever I bought my EMS. I’ll have to contact PI to see if the new remote is usable with my unit. IIRC, at the time I bought & 1st used my EMS, you could separately purchase the remote display later for near twice the additional cost buying it with the EMS. I bought my PI EMS HW30C in 2008 with the remote pendant. It has the switch. Your PI must be really old, because mine is 14 years old. Here is a photograph of my pendant (note the lower left corner of the pendant): https://i.imgur.com/bhbcnRv.jpg My PI HWC30 is about 4 years old. If you have the remote display, you do not have a local, on unit display. I have the display on the main unit. My display plugs into where the remote display plug would. I did find a remote bypass switch accessory compatible with my unit for $24, due in tomorrow. No remote display is available with my original unit. Might be able to McGuyver one but not worth the cost & effort to me. I keep a cheap plug in volt meter in my kitchen outlet for quick monitoring, reads about a volt low compared to the EMS. Yes, I regret not ponying up the extra for the remote display ;(
Boomerweps 05/11/22 04:32pm Travel Trailers
RE: 30A Surge Protector Recommendations

I put the hard wired Progressive Industries HWC-30 in my TT. I cheaped out and didn’t get the remote display. Mistake. Only problem is it does it’s job well. No ground, inverted polarity on the mains, NO POWER passed. No workarounds. Had low voltage at one place, it kept shutting off power. I suggest having a bypassable plug so you can get power in those odd cases IF you determine the risk is worth it. As IAMICHABOD stated, there IS a bypass. It is part of the remote pendant that you didn't get. There were NO switches on the remote display whenever I bought my EMS. I’ll have to contact PI to see if the new remote is usable with my unit. IIRC, at the time I bought & 1st used my EMS, you could separately purchase the remote display later for near twice the additional cost buying it with the EMS.
Boomerweps 05/10/22 10:25am Travel Trailers
RE: 30A Surge Protector Recommendations

I put the hard wired Progressive Industries HWC-30 in my TT. I cheaped out and didn’t get the remote display. Mistake. Only problem is it does it’s job well. No ground, inverted polarity on the mains, NO POWER passed. No workarounds. Had low voltage at one place, it kept shutting off power. I suggest having a bypassable plug so you can get power in those odd cases IF you determine the risk is worth it.
Boomerweps 05/09/22 01:53pm Travel Trailers
RE: Modify top bunk

I removed the upper bunk in my Wolf Pup BHS16. It was a PITA getting the screws out. Had to remove the luan top to access them and remove and reroute the wires to my thermostat. It was just a 2x2 frame with several cross braces. You’d have to rebuild that frame to make it a shelf. I installed a wood clothes rod up near the ceiling from the back wall to the cabinet above my dinette.
Boomerweps 05/04/22 06:42pm Travel Trailers
RE: best brake controller 09 f150

Last one I bought, Prodigy 3, came with a bare wire ended to plug cable. I bought the Ford to Prodigy adapter on EBay for $10-12. Did you search the truck? My 1998 Expedition & 2008 Explorer with tow packages both came with a Ford plug to bare wires cable for a trailer brake controller. Then you just have to mate the wires.
Boomerweps 05/02/22 12:24pm Tow Vehicles
RE: New Ranger for towing

The Ranger is a very nice smaller truck. Much easier to park and operate in tighter spaces in town. Have you seen them side by side? This isn't a 1980's ranger where it was drastically smaller. The F150 (same cab/bed) is only 2" wider and just over a foot longer. New trucks for a side by side comparison? Not at any local to me Ford dealer currently. Last time time I had services done on my truck the showroom was EMPTY! Yes, they do look a lot bigger but I hadn’t seen the measurements.
Boomerweps 04/29/22 12:13pm Towing
RE: New Ranger for towing

The Ranger is a very nice smaller truck. Much easier to park and operate in tighter spaces in town. Tow rated at 7000# WITH NO WDH, according to Ford. Ranger pricing isn’t that far off from an F150. Adding the fifth wheel comments can be from a lack of research but, to me, is almost trolling ??
Boomerweps 04/28/22 11:20am Towing
RE: Trying to figure out what trailers I can tow

So, do the majority of persons replying here, who are either arguing semantics or instructing how to theoretically determine what is permissible by the trucks ratings….do you guys actually know the answer or do you just like hearing yourself talk? “An excellent missive…”. WTH kind of reply is that? If you don’t have a relatively educated ACTUAL response for the OP, then it means you’re as clueless as him. So why not refrain and hope to gain something g from the thread rather than polluting it with arguments about how much the avg human weighs or mis interpreting the unit weight of gasoline? Good grief… STAND BACK! I’ve got a large vocabulary and I’m not afraid to use it! ;) It’s called a discussion. OP isn’t paying for answers and they get their money’s worth. Like any other web forum, OP gets to sort through the chaff (like this post) & gets to have the final decision. Bad day, Grit dog?
Boomerweps 04/18/22 10:25am Travel Trailers
RE: Vehicle "rise" while towing.

I want to thank those who discussed the oversteer/understeer aspects. It now makes more sense to me that the F150s with tow packages come with a heavier, solid front anti-roll bar vice the standard same diameter hollow bar and the effects that has. And that there is no factory rear bar. It has also helped me make up my mind on NOT getting the Hellwig rear bar. While that would improve daily empty driving, I now think that it would not help towing at best and possibly be an actual oversteer concern while towing. Throw in the recent increased cost of the bar & its now a no go for me.
Boomerweps 04/18/22 10:11am Towing
RE: Trying to figure out what trailers I can tow

Anyone that is confused by the differing opinions and wants to know what the real definition of curb weight, payload, etc. is, can go to the clicky I posted earlier and get the “facts”. Clicky An excellent missive. Note that much of what is listed is also clearly described in the manufacturer’s Towing Guide.
Boomerweps 04/16/22 08:05am Travel Trailers
RE: Trying to figure out what trailers I can tow

You start out so well and then, in the words of the J. Gail’s Band, “must have got lost, somewhere down the line”. First, all liquids, including a full gas tank, are part of the factory curb weight and not part of the Load Capacity. Second, for clarity, the 150# driver (& now 150# single passenger in 2020+ for Ford) is only allowed for in the tow rating ONLY. SAE tow test standards also allow for a 100# Weight Distributing Hitch but that is not always referenced by truck makers. Easiest no cost weigh (pun intended) to get the factory built curb weight is subtract the factory Load Capacity from the GVWR, looking at two door frame stickers. No, I think you went right off the rails so to speak. You live in PA, right? You do realize PA does include the unladen weight of your vehicle right on the registration card, right? OK, so I will take my newest truck for example.. GVWR listed on the door is 10,000 Unladen weight listed on PA registration card is 5,742 Yellow loading sticker states 3,800 lbs 10,000 - 5,742 = 4,258 (cargo) But, wait.. there is a discrepancy between what your manual calculation is.. calculated cargo 4,258 - yellow sticker 3,800 = 458 difference.. Truck has 35 gallon fuel tank and at roughly 8 lbs per gallon that is 280 lbs.. 458 - 280 lbs = 178 lbs.. The 178 lbs is pretty darn close to the 150 lbs specified as the DRIVER.. and the 28 lbs discrepancy is most likely due to rounding the fuel weight.. For the record, the truck I used IS a 2020 F250.. So, my math says that the yellow sticker does account for the full fuel tank and driver and using the CURB weight of the vehicle does not take into account full tank of fuel or driver.. This makes sense since the factory does not ship ANY vehicle with a full tank of fuel, they ship it with just enough fuel to load and unload and get it to the dealers lot. Dealer is responsible for filling the tank the first time when you buy it. Pretty clear. Not so clear. Forgot PA lists an Unladen Weight on the registration. Don’t know how they determine that. Guesses don’t count. Yes, vehicles are not shipped with a full tank. But it is easily calculated by them to figure out for the curb weight. Yellow sticker states “The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed:” That means driver is part of the load capacity. My truck 2019 F150 Owner’s Manual goes into detail on the yellow sticker in the Towing section and gives examples that include the driver.
Boomerweps 04/15/22 02:06pm Travel Trailers
RE: Trying to figure out what trailers I can tow

I spent the last 12 years out of my 32 years working at GM at the Flint Assembly plant and I never did see where those trucks were weighed and stickered. I was on skilled trades and was everywhere in that plant. No idea how they figured out the weight of those trucks with their different options as they rolled off the line. Maybe I just didn't pay attention..... I always assumed the guys who said there was a scale were just making it up. Unlike RVs, the automotive industry, they know the weight of each piece and part down to the gnats ass. They probably just add up the weights based on selected options. They might do an occasional sample vehicle to confirm but I doubt they have a scale at the exit to the plant with a guy typing up the yellow stickers as each truck gets weighed. Ford had a list for adding and subtracting the weight of those various options. I downloaded it from some Ford site courtesy of someone on the F150 Forum. Sorry, no link. But it appears their weight listings are calculated, vice actual weighing each vehicle.
Boomerweps 04/15/22 01:32pm Travel Trailers
RE: Vehicle "rise" while towing.

1/4 of height difference returned to the front? Man, I thought the 1/2 returned recommended by Ford wasn’t enough. I, too, shoot for TV returned to close to level. In part, because that front only measurement discounts any rear drop. To me, it’s just not logical. Even fully returning the front to the unloaded value, the rear may sag. It appears the vehicle makers are just worrying about loss of front wheel traction for steering and the partial returned value is adaquate. So I shouldn’t get mad at people towing with GMs at night blinding me cause they were just following orders?
Boomerweps 04/14/22 12:02pm Towing
RE: Keeping fridge door open while in storage

Go to a dollar store and get some pool noodles. They have many uses. Good to let the kids beat each other with, among other uses. Cut a noodle to desired length, then split it. Push the split over the door or frame edge. Tape it in place if needed, using painters tape to minimize residue when removed. I’d also use the painters tape to hold the door semi shut in case the RV gets moved.
Boomerweps 04/14/22 11:42am Travel Trailers
RE: Trying to figure out what trailers I can tow

You’re both wrong here. Payload of a vehicle is simply the GVWR minus the empty weight calculated with full fluids. There is no allowance for driver or passenger in this. This is commonly mixed up with the Tow Rating which is the number that accounts 150lbs for a driver and passenger. In the past, you would be correct that would be the following.. GVWR - Curb weight = "Payload" The problem with this method is the "curb weight" often is not included on the basic white sticker so to get the curb weight one must take the vehicle to the scales. But, between 2003 and 2006 the "yellow tire and loading" sticker became required for all vehicle manufacturers. This sticker IS customized to your specific vehicles configuration as built by the factory. If you were to scale your vehicle as equipped from factory with a empty fuel tank, no one in it and no cargo you would discover that there is a weight discrepancy between your manual GVWR - Curb weight = Payload calculation vs what the yellow stick says you have for payload. Your manual calculation will show a higher available payload than the yellow sticker. So how do we know which is true? Take the payload you computed from GVWR - curb weight and subtract the yellow sticker payload weight.. That difference you will discover is the weight of your vehicles full fuel tank (gallons x roughly 8 lbs per gallon) and there still will be a discrepancy of at least 150 lbs (driver) and possibly another 150 lbs for a passenger.. While you could manually compute the payload, then subtract the fuel weight and subtract the driver weight, why bother when it is already done for you on that yellow sticker? The yellow sticker gives you everything you need to know on what your vehicle is capable of hauling or towing and you didn't need to scale it or do any math. You start out so well and then, in the words of the J. Gail’s Band, “must have got lost, somewhere down the line”. First, all liquids, including a full gas tank, are part of the factory curb weight and not part of the Load Capacity. Second, for clarity, the 150# driver (& now 150# single passenger in 2020+ for Ford) is only allowed for in the tow rating ONLY. SAE tow test standards also allow for a 100# Weight Distributing Hitch but that is not always referenced by truck makers. Easiest no cost weigh (pun intended) to get the factory built curb weight is subtract the factory Load Capacity from the GVWR, looking at two door frame stickers.
Boomerweps 04/14/22 11:37am Travel Trailers
RE: Trailer Hitch Set-up Option

Funny all these years I never heard of it called a "Stinger" 10-4 on the tailgate. I'll have to monkey with it and see if I want to turn it over or just cut some of the bottom off. Don't have a metal band saw or a torch. So we will see.... I never did either until I got my first Weight Distributing Hitch. When you’re maneuvering the beast of a hitch into the receiver, calling the part sticking out a stinger makes some sense and it’s better than a vulgar alternative around the grandkids ;)
Boomerweps 04/07/22 02:03pm Towing
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