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RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

Hi all. Questions about Cruise America Thor Majestic 23A coach battery. 1) What manufactures, size and type battery did your 23A come with? Mine came with a a Lifetime AMG Deep Cycle Group 31. 2) Was your battery just on the battery tray or did it come with a strap and/or any protection from road debris/elements? 3) Have you replaced your battery and if so, what did you decide to go with? Did you stay with an AMG or go the traditional flooded deep cycle? 1 & 2 My 23A came with a new (what the salesman said) group 31 AGM which just sat on the battery tray-no tiedowns. 3 I've thought about replacing it, as I have no idea how many recharge cycles it's gone through and it seems to loose it's charge, especially when it sits for a few weeks. I've put it on a battery charger if it sits longer than this time period. If I were to replace it, I'd go with another AGM, and add a second battery and a solar panel. You shouldn't mix a flooded and AGM batteries, and I like the idea of no maintenance of the AGM. The Lithium's are just too expensive for the way I use my coach.
Booner 06/05/21 06:31pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Worn suspension

I'll disagree with some of the posters here. 54,000 miles on factory shocks when your running your unit at maximum weight levels, Ya, it could be time for a change. They don't put premium shocks on these thing when they come from the factory. I'm guessing you can buy heavy duty shocks for around $100 each. While your doing this, change out your steering stabilizer too.
Booner 06/04/21 11:00pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

I can't speak exactly about the unit you're buying, as mine is the smaller 23A. I'm going to assume your problems with mounting a TV in the bedroom area will be these two; routing a cable for an antenna and powering the TV. mounting the TV shouldn't be a problem, a flat screen isn't that heavy depending on the size. If you mount it under an overhead cabinet, for example, you could tap into a light fixture for 12 volts. If you get a TV that runs on 110 volts, you'll have to either be on shore power or the generator to run the TV. So buy a TV that runs on 12 volts and you'll bypass that problem. (TV's that run on 110 volts have a transformer in them to convert it to 12 volts anyway). I will assume you'll have an antenna on the roof, which means you'll have to add that. You'll have to run an coax cable from that antenna to the TV, and you'll probably want to power that coax to amplify the signal so you'll need power for that (12v). The roof vent for the refrigerator will give you a path from the roof down to underneath the unit so that's a good way to run the coax. From underneath the unit you can go into the storage area and then up to the bed. A bedroom TV can be done, but you'll need a antenna that rotates to get a signal and you have to be within 50ish miles from the TV transmitter or stay in campgrounds that have cable available. If all you be using the TV for is to watch DVD's, then the installation will be much simpler. Or, you could get a tablet that operates on 4g and then anywhere you get a cell signal you'll have entertainment from anywhere in or out of the TV. It's what I do.
Booner 05/29/21 01:25am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

All new Bilstein HD shocks, Front steering stabilizer, Front and rear Anti sway bars, Front and rear Sumo springs airless air bags, Hi Majestic31 (or Booner or anyone else) - could you link the Bilstein Shock and steering stabilizer you purchased? I could not find E450 Shock/stabilizers (for CA 28A Majestic) on Amazon. Thanks in advance. Edit: Answering my own question for others in future: Steering Stabilizer on Amazon $115 Rear Shocks part number 33-176840 as per Bilstein (08-16 E450 motorhomes) Front shocks - Part number 33-187563 as per Bilsteing (08-16 E450 Motorhomes) I have linked to Amazon but can be bought cheaper elsewhere. Hey Quasimatter, To figure out what shocks fit my rv, I first went to the Bilstein website and looked up what shock they recommend for my unit, then looked that model up on Amazon. Since my unit is a 23A, and an E350, my rv may or may not use the same shocks as yours. But it looks like you found what you need. I hope you're very satisfied with the shocks. -Booner
Booner 05/11/21 07:25pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Thor Majestic 23A

There is so much information on the Majestic 23A in the thread IAMICHABOD referred to, as well as other Cruise America models, that I highly recommend you read. The thread should put most of your fears of buying a used rv with plenty of miles on them to rest. My 23A from CA had 128,000 on the odometer and I haven't had any problem worth mentioning. I did replace the shocks and steering stabilizer on it as my first major purchase, and I would recommend you do the same. I also added a wireless backup camera because you have a huge blind spot behind the unit. re: driving on gravel roads- You're driving a big, overweight vehicle on a rough surface so take you time and avoid thinking it's capable of off-road use. The biggest problem I've encountered is dust getting into the unit. How the unit is attached to the subframe leaves a lot of gaps that the dust will find a way into. I've spent plenty of time underneath the unit plugging these gaps with caulking, expanding foam, and spray on truck bed liner. I've eliminated most of the gaps and the dust incursion is almost nil. This is a fairly typical problem of most rv's, but I think it's time well spent. The 23A is a base level RV, and I'm good with that. I have no problems recommending a former CA rental to anyone, the miles on the unit don't bother me. The engine and chassis on these units are good for 1/2 million miles if they are maintained, and in my opinion, the rental companies do a better job of maintaining them than a private owner.
Booner 04/07/21 01:53pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

And, now we have power! I decided not to add a secondary battery or a solar system but to instead just connect to the main coach battery. I have an inverter mounted under the seat and connected to the coach battery. I have a remote power switch and a voltmeter (connected to the coach battery through the inverter) mounted just behind the back cushion to the black plastic cover, and the surge protector cable is ran through the seat belt slot. I posted some pictures in the Facebook Group "Cruise America 19G Owners" - Total cost was $275 to have access to power outlets WITHOUT having to run the generator or be connected to shore power. Pretty awesome to sit there with my phone connected, laptop connected, heated throw on high and watch the voltage drop 0.1 over the course of like four hours : ) I'm not a Facebook member and it's a private group so I can't look at what you've done, so what's the wattage of your inverter? I've got two inverters that I could put in my rv, a 800 watt and a 1800 watt. I think I'll do the 800 only so I'm not putting too much stress on my house battery. Later on this spring I'll figure out how to add an additional battery and put about 150 watt solar panel on the roof.
Booner 03/10/21 05:53pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: What to do about old gas in tank

Since that gas has some age to it, it may cause some engine misfires if you put the engine under some heavy load. Once you get some fresh as in the tank, misfiring shouldnt be a problem. High octane gas is for high compression engines, which you don't have and by using it you're just wasting money. Check your owners manual for what octane they recomend and go with that. My guess is it'll be the lowest octane available at your local gas station.
Booner 03/10/21 02:21pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

They ran along the top of the fresh water tank. They ended being the wires for the cargo lights in the basement. I couldn't use them be a use the ran from the switch to the other light, so they would only work work if the switch was on. OK then. Read my post to you at the bottom of page 148 which will tell you how to wire something using the interior lighting circuit. I'm assuming you have a light fixture under the cabinets that are over your bed. This 12V circuit is always hot and all you have to do is splice into it before the light switch. The wire that goes to the switch will be the hot wire. -or- Wait a day or two and I'll take some pictures of how I wired in a USB outlet by my bed using the light circuit. I want to charge my phone at night while I listen to podcasts. You never responded to my question as to what you need the new outlet for. Something like a USB plug, or perhaps a radio isn't that much of a extra-load for the circuit. If you want to plug in an electric blanket or coffee pot-that may be too much and they should have their own circuit.
Booner 03/10/21 02:06pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

There are two sets of these wires. They each go to the back corners of the rv. Could they be for the taillights/turnsignals? Why would there be three in a set? Where are these wires you speak of Located? On my unit (the 25 foot model), the wires for the tail lights run along the frame on the underside of the unit in a sheathed bundle. From this bundle comes four wires to each corner of the rv; one for the running light, one for the stop light and one for the turn signal. The forth wire is for the ground. You may not have the fourth wire as the light fixture itself may be grounded to the frame.
Booner 03/08/21 11:36am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

I am wanting to add some dc outlets to the bedroom. I found some wires I would like to tap into, I think they go the cargo lights in the back bay. The wire colors are white, gray with white stripe, and white with black stripe. Anybody know which is positive, negative, and ground? I can't tell you which wire is what, although my guess is the wires with the stripe is the ground-but test this first-so I would suggest you get a multimeter/circuit tester to check wire polarity. There is no neutral in a 12v circuit, only positive (hot) and ground (negative). If you're just looking to add a dc circuit for a modest load, (dc charger, radio, lighting, etc.), you could tap into one of the light fixtures in the bedroom area. The light circuit is of two wires (hot and ground), 12V and the circuit is always hot. The switch on the light fixture turns the light on and off. Just tap into the wires between the house battery and before the light switch, and you'll have constant power from your house battery.
Booner 03/04/21 01:37pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

Driving to VA. To pickup 28a inspection went well ,1 minor issue shower door rollers out of track. Anyone have any problem receiving title from CA they say 30 -45 days (why so long?) they give you a Temp plate But my state doesn’t recognize Temp plates (MA) . Hopefully all goes well! I think it took around 45 days to get my title.
Booner 02/21/21 11:31pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Flush Transmission and Radiator?

I think the big destroyer of a transmission is heat, not age or mileage. At 60,000 mile and driving a heavy vehicle up and down hills and/or towing a vehicle, your tranny has gone through some heat cycles, so yes, I would change the fluid. And if you want to get real anal about your tranny, add a aftermarket tranny cooler after the radiator to help keep the tranny temps down. When I'm stopped at a long traffic light I put my tranny in neutral to help keep it from getting hot. Your 'check engine light' might be something as simple as a loose fitting gas cap; either you didn't get it on securely or perhaps the rubber seal around the cap has a crack in it. It will take about a 1/2 dozen on/off cycles of your engine for the check engine light to switch off after you cap the gas tank tightly. I like Mobile 1 oil.
Booner 02/11/21 08:47pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Modify OR Access Easily Over cab Bed for the Older Camper

I would think anyone with a table saw could make you a ladder that would work for you. Shoot, come to my place in Central Missouri and I'll make you one! When I'm done, we'll do lunch. I've got some scrap 2x6's out in the garage.
Booner 01/14/21 12:02am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Lifting my class C

By no means do I know much about hitches, but from the picture alone it appears that a square spacer was used for the hitch to attach to: is this normal? I would think you'd want the hitch to attach directly to the frame rails. So perhaps if you investigated a new hitch design you could gain the height you wanted and the towing capacity you want. A new hitch would allow you to get rid of the casters, which is what is probably causing you to drag your bottom, and nobody I know wants a dragging bottom. There also seems to be some rust in that area and I would investigate that too to see how bad it is. I recently put HD Bilstein shock all the way around my motor home along with a steering stabilizer. I purchased them from Amazon; the shocks were around $90 each and the stabilizer $115. It greatly improved the handling. I put the stabilizer on myself; it was simple to do and the factory stabilizer was well past worn out. If your going to tow something, you'll want a good handling rig. Also, I'm wondering if you lifted the rear end of your MH, if that would change the caster on your front wheels either for better or worse as far as handling goes? If you still are running on the factory shocks and stabilizer, it's probably time for a change anyway.
Booner 12/31/20 07:11pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: RVing in the winter

our two large AGM batteries have no problem running the furnace for only 15-20 minutes, total, out of each hour at those inside and outside temperatures Perhaps the key is a second battery. As I understand, the electric blower dragons out within a few short hours without connection to shore power or running the genny. I'll quote myself : ) The 19G manual states: HOW IT (FURNACE) OPERATES Use the wall thermostat to turn the furnace on. Air is heated by burning propane. A blower using 12-volt power from the auxiliary battery circulates the hot air through the motorhome. WARNING: If the auxiliary battery is not being charged via the chassis engine, a campground connection or the generator, the furnace blower will discharge it in two to three hours and then the furnace will shut off. If this happens, you may recharge the battery by running the chassis engine for about 45 minutes. I have found the above to be true, running the house battery down -IF- you run the furnace on high. So I don't run the furnace on high. I'll first warm up the motorhome with the truck engine heater (which also charges the house batteries), then turn the engine off and start the furnace. Once the heater is putting out hot air, I move the thermostat slider down to just above the level where it turns the furnace off. So far, running the furnace this way, the house battery has not been run down overnight. I'll admit that I haven't tried this when it's been really cold, only when it's been slightly below freezing, so my results may be different if I was using my motorhome if it were really cold. In the morning, I'll turn the thermostat up to high, and start the truck up again to help with the heating and recharge the battery.
Booner 12/11/20 12:46pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

Got Dust? I picked up my 23A at the end of September and have put around 4,000 miles since I purchased it. New heavy duty Bilstein shocks all around with a Bilstein steering stabilizer stopped the little "wandering" problem I had. Experimenting with tire air pressure helped the ride comfort lever too. Keeping as much weight forward as possible also helps. The gas tank, gray and black tanks are all behind the rear axel and that takes weight off of the front end and promotes the wandering. There's no reason to haul around the contents of the gray and black tank so I empty them as often as I can. My biggest problem is collecting dust in the house section from driving on gravel roads. I'm not talking about a little dust. I talking about "OMG, doesn't this guy every clean the dust out of his motor home?" kind of dust with one drive down a gravel road. CA and Thor did a good job of sealing the outside of the unit. I've looked the whole unit over and have only had to add a small amount of sealant on the roof and tail light area. Where someone dropped the ball was sealing the underside of the unit. If dust is coming in, then I'm loosing my A/C and heated air through these holes too. So I've spent a lot of time under my unit sealing things up with expanding foam. The area on the inside of the rear wheel wells had a very large gap between the floor and side walls on both sides. To do the job right, I should have removed the rear tires and then crawled into the wheel wells to do my sealing. Instead of that, I used a small piece of wood paneling as a paddle to hold some expanding foam on and then reached in from the outside and spread/pushed the foam into the gaps. It's not a pretty job, but only I and my tire shop will know about it. Also there are holes in the bottom of the unit were gas and electric lines run through and these areas needed some additional foam to seal the holes. The area around the steps was not sealed, and calking was used to seal that area. I'm working on the shower now. I don't want to take the shower apart to seal things correctly, and I'm sure there is no insulation under the shower pan considering how cold the shower floor is, but a lot of dust comes in between the fiberglass sides and the floor pan. I think I will apply some caulk where the fiberglass side panels meet the floor pan and use some short shank screws to tighten the side walls to the floor pan. To do all of this, I need to take the stool out of the bathroom. I'm really looking forward to that! One can only wonder what I'll find there. I also want to put a raised floor in front of the toilet as it sits pretty high. I'll admit I'm rather anal about this, and I'm not some kind of clean freak either. I'd like to think I'm more interested in fixing something that should have been done at the factory, and when/if I ever sell this thing, the new buyer will get a better unit. Since I purchased my former rental, I spend a lot of time on this and other forums trying to learn from others; what problems they have and how they fixed them. I've come to the conclusion that I did the right thing in buying my first RV from CA. Reading the problems buyers have had with their "factory new" motorhomes, people who've spent 3 times what I spent and still have major issues with their new motorhome, only confirms that my decision was the right one.
Booner 12/11/20 11:32am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

Thanks Chris for the above answers - Makes sense - I will plan on getting 2 identical batteries. Another quick question for Majestic 28A owners, What is the compartment in front of Master Bed - It is solid metal box with metal cover screwed on with special pin-in Hex screws. I opened it up and voila - there is nothing in there. Was it supposed to house something? Attaching a picture. As you can see - there is another metal box inside with sides open (nothing inside that either). Maybe it used to house something which was removed (or an option that was not installed)? It looks a bit odd being right at the foot of the bed and also just being big metal plate which does not match other flooring. PS: Is there a forum anywhere that is specific to Majestic (or even 28A)? I remember asking my CA salesman, and he said something about it was an access panel to the transmission, maybe the differential. I just took it at that and never opened it up. Maybe someone else has better information. MtnBikeMarty I don't know if that access hatch is the same in my unit (23A) as your larger unit, but I was told it was an access panel for the fuel pump. Enjoy your new toy! Booner
Booner 12/11/20 10:24am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Reliability of older Class C’s?

No one here has recommended buyer a formal rental, so I'll do that. I recently purchased a Cruise America 25' formal rental and I'm very pleased with it. I know there are some, probably on this forum, who would never consider buying former rental unit, but we have a thread on this forum that lists over 130 formal rental buyers, and I don't any one of them have any regrets in doing so, including me. My problem in buying a unit from a private owner is how well did they take care of it? Low millage is nice but did they service their rv regularly? I would rather have a vehicle that has some age on it as long as it's been serviced regularly than something with low miles that sat a lot. I'm also new to rv'ing and didn't know what I wanted so a basic unit like mine, I felt was a good starting point. Expect to pay around $32,000 for one of CA's rentals. The only major things I've done to mine so far is put new shocks on it and a new steering stabilizer. The tires and batteries were new when I picked mine up. The unit had been repainted and sealed. I also had a inspection service go over everything and had their report in hand before I paid for the unit. I also like the length of my rv (25 foot) verses a longer unit. When you get a longer unit and load it up with water, fuel etc. you get a lot more weight behind the rear wheels, this makes it harder to control while driving. It's also easier to get around in and park verses something that's longer. Now, if I had more people travelling/camping with me, I may be willing to make the tradeoff in vehicle handling vs inside room, but for someone traveling alone with pets, I don't think the extra room is needed as much. Expect 9-10 mpg in anything you buy. I think the more important thing to do is get the unit and use it locally on short trips to get to know it before you take is across country. Long term, it's going to be the house that will give you more problems than the truck part. "You Tube" is your friend in that case. Watch as many of the video's as possible to learn from other's problems and fixes so you know what to look for. Most of the fixes are something that you can fix, rather than spending the big bucks at a repair shop. Good luck in finding the right rv for you!
Booner 11/21/20 11:32am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

---Quasimatter --Booner Boomer - I got the RV already - I was told the same thing that if I want Awning they will take $995 payment over phone and order it - it will arrive in 2-3 weeks and then they will call me back for installation. Regarding insurance - I went with progressive and also got their roadside assistance (added $26 to total premium) - do you think $100 Good Sam Roadside assistance is that much better than Progressive? I seriously doubt the Good Sam Club carries their own insurance, so if we buy from them they will farm it out to another party, with them taking their cut, so they charge more. Like I said though, if you join the Good Sam Club you get discounts at Camper World, some camping sites, and gas discounts at Loves truck stops. I think I paid around $30 for a yearly membership--which includes roadside assistance, so I'm doubly covered. Interesting about what they told you about the awning. I guess with RV sales up 30-40% they're a little short on some supplies. I have a signed paper from my salesman that I paid for but didn't receive an awning but I think I'll call CA to remind them of the fact. And BTW- my handle is Booner, not Boomer. MY first name is Dan and I'm from Boonville, Mo so I've had "Booner as a nickname for years. Anyone who called themselves Boomer probably served on a nuclear sub. I was in the artillery. I wish you the best of luck with your motorhome
Booner 11/17/20 10:27pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Hubcaps

Take the hubcap off the RV and see how the middle part is attached to the rest of the hubcap. Perhaps you can fix it or if not, you'll need a new one.
Booner 11/17/20 11:16am Class C Motorhomes
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