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RE: 2003 Minnie Winnie

Update: IAMICHABOD provided the link to the article, but it was missing the images. I've since updated the images and replied to the post, bumping it to the top. Overhead bunk renovation.
BruceMc 10/07/20 03:00pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Overhead entertainment center removal

Update on the finger: It's all healed and shows no evidence of ever being chopped liver. There's a slight flat spot where I should have kept it covered & moist. Only the memories and the picture of the event remains. Oh, and the overhead has evolved too, though I still need to architect a TV cabinet. I installed the TV temporarily for a trip last summer with the grand-children as we needed child sedation devices. Pics:Overhead bunk modifications .
BruceMc 10/07/20 02:57pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2003 Minnie Winnie

I had posted on this very topic before, but it's now part of the long lost rv.net archives as I initially posted on this 4-5 years ago. IAMICHABOD would have replied with a link to my earlier post, but was unable to find it - thus, this new reply: I converted my overhead from an entertainment system with mini-bunks to a full overhead bunk. First and foremost, determine if the overhead is capable of supporting a bunk. Many class C's were built where the overhead area was never intended for anything except for what was installed. To determine if the overhead is capable, review the various options for your specific model. We have a 2016 2250S Sunseeker, and looking at the literature tells us: https://a4.pbase.com/g9/88/791988/3/161930204.10nbS47x.jpg that it has the option for the bunk in the overhead. This is one of two pictures I have of the entertainment center before I cleared the area: https://a4.pbase.com/o9/88/791988/1/161773375.viiengwK.MHScreenShot20151024at7.39.35AM.png Given that, then you can change it out. However, you'll need to proficient enough to repair access holes for wiring and screw holes, etc once the entertainment system has been removed. FR drilled a large hole at the forward edge of the ceiling for the cables, 12V and 115V wiring: https://a4.pbase.com/g9/88/791988/2/162818701.HX792jo9.jpg Fortunately, I had access to some of the same ceiling material from a storage compartment so I was able to patch the area. Here's a photo essay Photo Essay of the project. I've since added the TV at the upper right side, but only as a temporary setup to keep the G'children sedated during our trip to/from the family reunion last summer. I have plans to build a proper cabinet & support for the TV, but other projects have taken precedence. Let me know if you have questions! --Bruce.
BruceMc 10/07/20 02:31pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Do You Trust Hitch Locks?

I agree, which is one of two reasons why I bound the lynch pins with cable ties. The Roadmaster kit has 2 padlocks, but the shank size is almost half the thickness of the lynch pins, so I didn't feel comfortable using them on the top of the crossbar. Those really need to be large enough to fill the hole, and hard enough to withstand the upward pressure of the crossbar. I have a Kubota as well, and I've bent those lynchpins as well as lost a couple. Like you, tarnold, I don't think these are the correct fastener for a towbar. Our towbar is level between the toad and MH, but upon returning from our 1100 mile trip, I found the washers that I used to take up the space between the lynch pins and the top of the crossbar had warn completely through the labels and well into the paint. That tells me there's lots of upward force on those two pins. Roadmaster should have put holes/pins in all four positions, not just the upper two, or they should have been threaded & bolted to the brackets. Perhaps a couple of grade 8 bolts with nylocks in place of the lynch pins? On this trip, we determined there was no need to remove the crossbar, so having something that is a tad more permanent during the entire trip makes sense to me.
BruceMc 09/17/20 03:30pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Idle Jeep Wrangler while towing?

The Stay-in-play does draw power from the toad's battery. Barring a dying battery (which is entirely possible), the question is: Are you getting power on your charge line from the MH to the toad? If you are having issues keeping the battery up, then I'd say yes - idle the jeep while at rest stops, just to top it up. As I stated - the Stay-in-play does use the toad's battery, so if the battery is dying/dead, then you'll have little to no supplemental brakes. It certainly is a good idea to put a new battery in the jeep anyway.
BruceMc 09/16/20 11:31am Dinghy Towing
RE: Do You Trust Hitch Locks?

We towed for the first time over the first week of September, covering about 1100 miles across northern Oregon. Here's how I tied down the lynch pins: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/171025807.96vWkhaG.jpg I left the crossbar in place for our outings with Snowball (the GMC Canyon), and other than a rattle while on rough gravel roads, it did fine: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/171025806.DM0ET44Z.jpg Another thing that helps stop the rattles and keeps sticky fingers from grabbing things is this hitch clamp: (Not properly tightened in this image; the bolts usually protrude the tops of the nylocks by a thread or two) https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/171025803.y4vvB6HU.jpg Granted, anyone who is intent on taking the setup can grab an adjustable wrench, but hey, we're talking about keeping honest folks honest... I have a locking pin for the hitch as well, which stayed in place over the entire trip as the Roadmaster Falcon 2 is a MH mounted drawbar.
BruceMc 09/16/20 08:59am Dinghy Towing
RE: Compressor, inflation chuck, and pressure gauge info needed

Here's my kit: https://a4.pbase.com/o9/88/791988/1/151853704.QSSDfHEe.IMG_0805.JPG And the remainder of the Tools for checking/airing duals images on my PhotoHosting site.
BruceMc 08/24/20 03:01pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Swivel seat base in Chev 4500/Sunseeker 2250

Last time we were at an RV show, several units that featured swivel seating from the factory also provided a "booster" seat to accomplish just that - raise the seat base up a few inches. It was a upholstered firm cushion that attached to the seat, and was stored in the overhead. Seemed kinda corny, but it effective. But I like your idea, the base should raise/lower depending on the use. Perhaps a Power Base, with a swivel plate on top?
BruceMc 08/16/20 11:39pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Swivel seat base in Chev 4500/Sunseeker 2250

Final results: I painted the base again, this time in place after installation as GM's studs are white, and stand out in contrast to the black base: https://a4.pbase.com/o12/88/791988/1/170959938.sLNBqhNu.BasePaint1.jpg width=600 In the normal travel position, the seat is now the correct height, but is shifted toward the center by an inch: https://a4.pbase.com/o12/88/791988/1/170959937.qam2qtuG.BaseCompleted.jpg The only detriment to dropping the base is when the seat is facing the rear - it is now 1 3/4 inches lower. https://a4.pbase.com/o12/88/791988/1/170959939.BTONEYTF.RearFacing.jpg But I like it. When we have a crowd, that tends to be my place to get out of the way. I prefer setting there anyway, so it has become "my spot"!
BruceMc 08/16/20 08:23am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Swivel seat base in Chev 4500/Sunseeker 2250

Thanks Ron! This is the swivel I ordered from Shop4Seats: 96 + GMC - Chevy Swivel Plate Factory Seat They have Swivel Bases, but they look like they were designed in the 70's... yet they may just fit the bill. I haven't researched the dimensions to see if any would be a direct replacement.
BruceMc 08/16/20 07:53am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Swivel seat base in Chev 4500/Sunseeker 2250

My Google search for swivel bases was not fruitful. Where would you find them for a 2017 Express 4500? It should be the same as the number as others, and I have shown in past posts. You will need to modify the plate, tho, as I did. It will work but it is not optimum. Yet, it's better than nothing. I do appreciate having the extra seat when we have 3 or 4 folks in the Sunseeker.
BruceMc 08/15/20 10:59pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Swivel seat base in Chev 4500/Sunseeker 2250

Seems to me there would be a market for a combo base & swivel for the passenger seat, tailored to fit two models - The Chevy 2004-present Express/Savanna vans as we have, and the Ford E series. I'd bet they'd sell pretty well. The drivers seat is usually not workable in a swivel configration, tho some floorplans would allow a drivers seat to swivel. Problem is, the steering wheel gets in the way! IAMICHABOD, it's pretty easy to offset the base and swivel to reduce/eliminate the interference with the door. All you need is a drill & bits to move the base and move the swivel on the base, and a hack saw to bevel off the corners of the swivel. A file helps to de-sharpen the edges. It's a lot more work to shorten the base, but a good welding shop could do it in an afternoon.
BruceMc 08/15/20 10:37am Class C Motorhomes
Swivel seat base in Chev 4500/Sunseeker 2250

I had posted on this previously, but cannot find the thread in the archives. It appears RV.net doesn't return results between a year old and 2013... D'oh! So... Way back a few years ago I purchased a swivel seat base for our Sunseeker. https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/168915753.RQnRm5aU.jpg It was workable, but just barely. Swiveling meant opening the door, and in the rearward facing position, the armrest was crammed against the door armrest. https://a4.pbase.com/o12/88/791988/1/168915749.LirGPTsU.IMG_7044.jpg Not a good setup. I reworked both the swivel and base: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/168915751.18QpZMiQ.jpg and have a decently working setup. However, there was one annoyance that needed fixing - the seat was 1 3/4 inches higher than before, due to the thickness of the swivel plate. To that end, I rebuilt the base by taking, you guessed it, 1 and 3/4 inches out of the height. Here's the results: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/170956325.4QL6agcO.jpg with the swivel plate mounted: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/170956326.oL4CHwBd.jpg I need to fill the holes that I used to clamp the upper and lower halves together for welding, and will probably use small carriage bolts. They are no longer needed, but would further enhance the strength of the base. My friend says I need to install Chroooome (Bop Bop DeBop Bop) bolts... and for comparison, here's the driver's seat base: https://a4.pbase.com/g12/88/791988/2/170956324.oU14vSy5.jpg I'll install the setup this afternoon, and all should be well. My lovely bride at 5'4" and our friend (who is about the same height) should be able to put their feet flat on the floor, as they did before the swivel seat mod. More pictures of Seating Mods including more pics of the swivel base.
BruceMc 08/14/20 04:59pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Blue Ox or Road Master

And... AVOID CW! Find someone else to do the work - Rarely does CW do what they say they will do for the price in the timeframe quoted. Roadmaster quality products are produced in Vancouver Washington, but don't let CW take their inflated cut. If you can, do the majority of the work yourself. Most of it is simple, some is a bit more involved. Save yourself some $$, or spend it elsewhere.
BruceMc 08/13/20 11:33pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Blue Ox or Road Master

Also, look at the Demco Stay-in-Play braking system. Pictures of our install, including the Stay-in-Play and the Roadmaster baseplate/tow bar setup.
BruceMc 08/13/20 08:10am Dinghy Towing
RE: Counter top replacement

You can do Solid Surface (One brand is Corian): https://a4.pbase.com/g11/88/791988/2/168742557.4ft3xqGX.jpg https://a4.pbase.com/o11/88/791988/1/168773865.xKys38q9.168773627.Pr9VBchG.jpg I did! More pics of the project on my photo hosting site.
BruceMc 07/29/20 09:47pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: New tow setup.... (Roadmaster/Demco)

The rest of the story: Installing the braking system took time, and a bit of rework here and there. I mounted the operating unit under the hood in a convenient location between the air filter box and windshield washer & antifreeze overflow containers on the passenger side. The two hoses and electrical harness routing was easy & clean, along the top of the firewall to the drivers side. The tail/brake light wiring + brake-away wiring was mounted in the license plate bracket with additional bracing, and routed to the radiator core support, where they terminated in connectors to facilitate easy bumper removal in the future, should it ever be necessary. From there, the cabling was routed to the battery breakout box/on to the connection point for the braking system, and aft to the tail/brake/CHMSL (center high mounted stop lamp) lamps. As it worked out, I used 6 diodes, though during the setup for the CHMSL, I found the wiring bundle just before all was broken out for separate bulbs. All told, I could have done the setup with 4 diodes - Stop/CHMSL, Left turn/stop, right turn/stop, and all tail lights. The Canyon is super easy to put into tow mode: 1) Hook up tow bar, umbilical, break-away cable, safety cables. 2) Turn on braking system via a switch on the Demco Stay-in-play "G-Force Controller" box. 3) Place the Canyon transmission in neutral, keep foot on brake, press & hold 2H and 4L buttons for about 15 seconds. When the red N light comes on, Put it in park, pull the key and hop out. We tested the setup with a 20 mile run, including turn tests in a parking lot. The 2250 Sunseeker on Chevy has a tight turning radius, so with the motorhome steering wheel turned to the stops (full steering wheel lock), I turned about 220 degrees before my friend started holler... I had a half inch between bumpers.
BruceMc 07/17/20 10:57am Dinghy Towing
RE: New tow setup.... (Roadmaster/Demco)

Pictures & comments of the install and tests... Regarding the CHMSL, I found a blue wire in the MH harness for that line. I added it to the harness running to the trailer elec connector's center pin, and routed it via the last open lead in the 6 wire umbilical. It would have been nice if Roadmaster included a full 7 wire umbilical, but as their kit terminated the umbilical in a 6 pin connector, I can see where they felt the 7th wire would never be used. Thus, I now have the standard signal and turn on the lower two tail/brake lights, and full brake lights/CHMSL on the upper two tail/brake lights plus the center high mounted stop light.
BruceMc 07/16/20 08:36am Dinghy Towing
RE: How Long For Tow Cables?

Agreed! No matter how our setups are configured, let's hope we never have to test the theories. Safe travels!
BruceMc 06/18/20 11:16am Dinghy Towing
RE: How Long For Tow Cables?

I can understand your position on the breakaway cable, mowermech! I can imagine that situation, but the idea of a vehicle attached to the motorhome only by the safety cables would be wild too. Let's say you are moving along at 70, and the towbar gives way but is still attached by the safety cables. Now, you have 1.5 - 3 tons of vehicle flailing around back there, and how do you stop this parade? If the toad is in fully braked mode, at least it won't be crashing into the back of the tow vehicle as you attempt to come to a stop. There's going to be a lot of damage, either way. According to my Demco Stay-in-Play instructions: Step 13: The Breakaway Cable Clip the breakaway cable to the hitch-receiver tow-cable holes on the coach and clip the lanyard to the loop on the breakaway plug. The length of the cable should be long enough that it will not pull out on the tightest possible turns made in either direction. Also route the cable so that it will not get caught on the tow bar. It should be short enough that it will pull out before the towed reaches the end of the safety cables.
BruceMc 06/18/20 08:38am Dinghy Towing
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