Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Search
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'BruceMc' found 34 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 2  
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Replacement for Jensen Entertainment Center

BTW, the sound is much better than the Jensen. I had replaced the interior $15 Jensen speakers with a nice set of $200 Yamahas, as stated in my original post. The outside speakers were always muted, while the Jensen over-drove the interior speakers to the point of making them buzz at the peaks. The iRV drives both fairly equally, and the sound from the Yamahas is very pleasant. Pairing with the phone is simple - select BT, and look for the iRV on the bluetooth list on the phone. Tap, and you are connected. The Jensen took a 12 step program, then would forget the pair in a day or three. I gave up. The physical build quality of both the Jensen JWM6A and the 32" TV is very good, but the electronics and software rates far below physical build quality. The iRV is not near as well built, as the silkscreening on some buttons are a bit crooked; the issues I had with the fascia as mentioned, and the rear power and speaker connectors were sub-par. After I mated them for the bench test, it took quite a bit of work to extract them, and that was with tools. The metal opening around the connectors was too small to allow the latch to fully unlatch. After coaxing them out, I snipped the tips of the catches so they could be extracted without issue in the future. The HDMI and antenna connections were fine. The only Jensen product remaining is the in-dash double din, that failed a little over a year after we purchased the Sunseeker. I rarely used it anyway, the GPS map was very hard to read, as if someone designed the graphics on a 40" monitor, then didn't consider visibility on a 6" screen. It occasionally has a windows error pop up, so I understood the issue; it was based on some embedded windows OS. Probably CE. (Remember windows ME, and NT? We used to combine the three - CE-ME-NT)
BruceMc 05/14/22 10:12am General RVing Issues
RE: Replacement for Jensen Entertainment Center

Given my requirements, I was limited to the units designed for RVs. I researched a lot of the automotive head units, and not a one has an HDMI(ARC) port. Many of them have analog video inputs for backup/side/etc cameras, but that's not acceptable for my application. No one on this board or on ForestRiverForums could provide a brand & model of an automotive unit that met my requirements, though I received similar responses on both boards much like some of these replies. I ultimately purchased an iRV32V2. This unit is currently in production and has up to date specs, and has fit the requirements nicely. The only issue I've had so far is finding the random function when playing music CDs. Other than that limitation, everything is easy to use and easily accessible, with a couple of exceptions. While researching this unit, there were three main objections: 1) Reliability, both infantile and adolescent failures 2) Very poor remote functionality 3) No adjustments for base, treble, balance While I don't yet have a track record for the reliability, everything worked fine out-of-the-box, with the exception of the remote. More on this later, however... If this unit fails over the next year or two (as did my Jensen JWM6A within a few months of life), I'll respond to this posting. Regarding the remote, it was easy to determine the cause of poor performance. The aperture for the IR receiver was obscured with a small hole containing a tiny pink plastic filter. This filter was mounted on the finishing fascia, but if the remote was used any time the fascia was absent, all worked well, and from quite a distance. The issue is not the remote, it's poor fascia design. As far as the lack of tone/balance adjustments, while the manual doesn't really mention how, it alludes to the fact that the volume knob is also used to select and adjust treble, base, L-R and F-R balances. In fact, this is actually on of those multi-function knobs. To adjust other functions, just push it in momentarily. Initially, it appears not to do anything, other than change the display to say Volume:n (where n is the current level). Rotate the knob to reveal the next function - Base, then Treble, then Left-Right, and finally Front-Rear. Easy! Changing the mode via the Mode button never displays the DVD or audio CD selections. Instead, just insert a DVD or CD, and the function and display changes to serve that function. The unit never searches for a missing CD or DVD if there's not one in the drive, unlike the Jensen. While in DVD function, the "Menu" button on the remote is supposed to bring up the DVD menu, but I always get "invalid key" in that function. This is the second of two puzzlers, the other being the lack of a randomizing function for music. Enough about the unit. You want installation pictures! Bench testing: New unit perched in opening designed for the Jensen: New filler that was a dinette drawer face in it's previous life: IR receiver fascia hole and removed filter: Modification: Unit mounted, facia not yet installed. The unit is in stand-by mode, clock displayed, but fairly dim: I had to do some other work on the fascia to get it to mount correct, and snap into place. Once those minor mods were complete, then it all snapped together and looks good. Again, in standby with a dim clock display: When on, this has a lot of blue lamps, which seems to be the current fad for automotive head units. Blue is the worst color in the world for night vision, but I guess they expect the cool kids with a billion blue lumens lives in the heart of the city - where it takes a lot of light to be seen.... This may be a minor distraction from that 32" TV a few feet away... More pictures, as always: Entertainment Center (Note, I also posted this reply on, in case you visit that site and thought you'd already seen this post!
BruceMc 05/14/22 10:04am General RVing Issues
RE: Can someone help design a 5 volt circuit

Keep in mind, the purpose for the circuit is to enable code pull, which may include engine RPM changes, is in Park or Neutral only. The circuit is disabled when in any other gear. A switch is certainly an option, but one that allows the code pull function to feasibly operate in any gear.
BruceMc 04/24/22 11:00am Tech Issues
RE: Can someone help design a 5 volt circuit

BurbMan, here's my understanding: OP wants to close the 5V source to 5V sense lines to be able to pull codes from the computer only when: In park/neutral, key on Else, the connection between those lines is open. Opnspaces, You asked: 1) I wasn't sure of the blocking diode position so I added two diodes. Were you saying to put in position A or position B or does it not matter and either position would work? A: The blocking diode can be placed in either position, as you don't want the start line voltage from back-feeding the Run line. The diode is necessary to prevent spurious current spikes on the run line from the starter coil's collapsing current when you release the key from the start position. As an aside, (in theory) current flows in the direction of the arrow, so it's blocked on the bar side. 2) Would the 5v through the constant duty solenoid cause the starter to constantly crank. I'm not sure if 5v would be enough to energize the starter solenoid but it's a thought. A: The 5V circuit is completed through the switch when the relay is energized; it is a separate circuit and completely isolated from the 12V circuit. You'll never want to backfeed 12 into your computer! Here's why the relay works in this setup: When there's no voltage on the start line (key in Start position), the line acts like a ground when in Park or Neutral. When in any other gear, the neutral safety switch is open, so the circuit is open, so you have a route to ground. If in any gear other than park or neutral, then the switch is open, but now you have no route to ground. The reason that it acts like a ground when the key is NOT in the start position and you are in Park/Neutral: There is no 12V on the line from the start circuit, so it is an open circuit at that point. The coil in the starter solenoid is huge and has very low resistance; it takes a lot of current to pull that coil closed. The coil in the relay is miniscule in comparison, requiring only a few milliamps. Both coils are in series at this point, and if both were equally sized, it would take 24 volts and the commensurate current to pull them closed. If you put two relays in series, one with a tiny coil and the other a huge coil, then one will activate at 12V and the other simply acts as a wire to ground. There will be a bit of current drop across the starter solenoid, but not enough to be an issue. If you have a spare starter solenoid and a small relay, such as that used for aux lighting, jig up the setup on your workbench. Let me know if I'm all wet... There's a chance I'm wrong, but I'm 99% sure this will work.
BruceMc 04/24/22 08:13am Tech Issues
RE: Can someone help design a 5 volt circuit

That lead from the ignition switch to neutral/park switch is energized ONLY when the key is at Start. This won't help for your use-case. You'll need to pick off the Run lead, not the Start lead. Put a small continuous duty relay on the Run lead, and wire it as follows: Coil: Positive: Run Negative: Ground Switch: Common: 5V source NO*: 5V sense *NO - Normally Open (when the relay is not energized) Now the 5V circuit is closed when in Run mode. If you want to open the circuit when the transmission is not in park/neutral, then wire the negative coil wire to the start line between the key and the neutral safety switch, AND add a blocking diode between the coil and Run line. Now, when the key is in Start, 12V+ will be on the coil negative line, as will be on the coil positive side from the Run line. The diode prevents 12V+ from back-feeding the run line. Wire the diode as follows: Run -->|-- Start (in my best ascii graphics). When in Run mode, and in parK/neutral, then the coil will pick up the ground through the neutral safety switch, and the starter solenoid. Good luck!
BruceMc 04/23/22 08:47am Tech Issues
RE: No more photo posting... huh?

Test image post: Looks like it works for me! You need to host your images elsewhere, as I do:
BruceMc 04/16/22 09:59am Forum Posting Help and Support
RE: Leveling blocks on dual rear wheels

I cut a number of 10x18" (approx) pieces of old scrap 3/4" plywood for this purpose. I found using 2x boards would split over time, and with a nominal dimension of 1 1/2 inches, I wasn't getting the granularity needed for the desired leveling. The 3/4" plywood has proven to be way more durable than the 2x boards. This size works for both front and back tires; I stack what I feel will work, but stagger the pieces so it forms a ramp. I store these in a rubbermaid box (no rubber in those plastic boxes!) in a storage hold, and learned never to put a lid on the box. I stored several once after departing from a site where we got a lot of rain overnight, and the next time I got into the box, they were moldy. The lid got moved under the box and has been there since then. I've never had moldy block since that event. This has worked for better than a decade of class C ownership, and while the idea of leveling jacks has appeal, I don't care to spend that much (and add additional weight) when the plywood works well for me.
BruceMc 04/15/22 09:38am Tech Issues
RE: Replacement for Jensen Entertainment Center

So far, all I've found is either the above mentioned RV units, or when reviewing the specs for automotive head units, I find many play DVDs if they have a physical slot, but they play it on the built in screen. Many have A/V in/out, but it's all analog. The inputs are primarily for rear/side/front view cameras, and the output is, perhaps, for that big screen in your buzz rocket... Many units are sans CD/DVD player, and I can understand that, for those who are always connected. I've not found a single automotive unit that has HDMI. In the home entertainment space, I've found lots of units, but they are designed to set on/in your furniture and connected to other devices, including a CD/DVD/Blueray player. I've yet to find one with a built-in physical player, but I've yet to really explore this area. It may very well be that I cave and buy an iRV or something similar, much like what LJAZ did. I certainly need to replace the Jensen. Anyone have the iRV 31 or 32v2 unit? Thoughts? I'll update this thread when I decide what to do/what I've done... BTW, I've already replaced the speakers with a nice set of Yamaha units: and I'm nearing completion of the new entertainment center setup: More pics, if you haven't already seen them.... New cabinet for TV in overhead.
BruceMc 04/13/22 04:46pm General RVing Issues
RE: Replacement for Jensen Entertainment Center

Telling me I have "thousands of different models to choose from" doesn't help; do you have general recommendations for an automotive single or double DIN radio that has HDMI(ARC)support? Replacing the Jensen with an automotive radio would be more than welcome, if it supports video playback and audio return channel (the ARC part of HDMI(ARC)), AND has a respectable remote - not a slab with bubbles.
BruceMc 04/11/22 04:18pm General RVing Issues
Replacement for Jensen Entertainment Center

If you've replaced your CD/DVD/Radio double-din entertainment center setup, what did you replace it with, and would you have gone with something else? I have 3 requirements: HDMI(ARC) DVD player A remote that is more than those thin bubble button thingies... I have a Jensen JWM6A that skips when playing MP3 disks, and the video output, while set to 1080p, look like a blurry 480 signal. This is the last Jensen product that still marginally functions in our Sunseeker, and I'd like to be completely Jensen free. This is what I've found, and I'm not terribly pleased with any of them: 1) Pyle... Need I say more? 2) Jensen... Not much of a step up from Pyle 3) iRV 4) Magnadyne 5) Others? I see mixed reviews on all of them. I know this has been discussed in previous threads, but many are several years old, and the units being discussed are long out of production. I'm seeking information for the 2020's! Thanks in advance! (Note, I've posted this on Forest River Forums as well; if you browse that forum and think you are seeing double...)
BruceMc 04/11/22 10:27am General RVing Issues
RE: CC Magna Build (solar, res fridge, induction cooktop, etc)

Quality wiring! Serious solar!! I may spend some time at Quartzsite one of these days/years; it's always good to see pictures of the area. My older brother and his friend have a spot in the area and have invited us to drop in sometime, but as I'm still a working stiff, it'll be a while. Our last trip to the area of your little slice of heaven was January of 2015, and we were only passing through to spend the day in Los Algodones. Looks good, keep up the posts!
BruceMc 03/30/22 08:21am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Bolt on wheel simulators

I have a set of Pacific Dualies; the handholes are a bit small, and because they are attached via 4 of the 8 studs, they don't have buffering pads where the outer edge contacts the lips of the rims. As such, they can squeak at slow rotations. I've added a thin layer of foam to the inner lip to stop the squeak. Otherwise, they look great and add to the overall appearance of the Sunseeker.
BruceMc 03/02/22 08:59am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Lost Cruise Control

I'm not sure if this is still the case, but if the fuse for the brake lights blows, as an indicator, the cruise and/or the dash lights quit as well. Check other items to see if they function.
BruceMc 03/02/22 08:20am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Rant - getting someone to work on a Class C motorhome

When dealers tell me they don't work on motorhomes for chassis work, I bark back and state it's a Chevy (or Ford) van - the chassis is the same on the MH. They always roll over and say ok, and then do the work. When we took our Ford into the nearest dealer for brake work when the front rotors seized, they said they didn't work on motorhomes. After trying the van explanation and still getting resistance, I retorted that I'd go to the CHEVY dealer a few blocks away, and that they'd most likely help me. The service writer changed his tune and they did the work with floor jacks just outside the service bay. When I had a couple of chassis recalls on our Chevy 4500, I got the same pushback. After explaining that it's the same chassis as a VAN, they fulfilled the recalls. Now I get regular service notices on my Chevy Cutaway! You gotta push them, with statements they understand. IGNORE the motorhome part, FIX your chassis!
BruceMc 02/16/22 12:35pm General RVing Issues
RE: Run TV on an inverter?

Of the 3 Jensen products in our unit, we've had 2 failures. That's a 66% failure rate, and both were not long after the warranty ran out. They may be highly rated on Amazon, but ratings can be padded, and often are. My $0.02, FWIW: While the original TV cabinet is well built, it would be acceptable if they would have put a respectable display in the unit to go along with build quality. 720p over 32" looks like cr.p... And you can get a nice 720p Jensen on Amazon for $350ish. No thank you. If you like Jensen products, that's fine; I do respect your opinion too. They are fine products for many folks, and I'm not discounting that fact.
BruceMc 02/11/22 06:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Run TV on an inverter?

Back to the OP's question, which has several satisfactory answers. I, too, am installing a new TV in our Sunseeker; I'm replacing the garbage 32" Jensen 720p 12v TV (I see your pixels) with a 32" 115VAC 1080p model which draws 45 watts. I have a 200 watt MSW inverter, but will eventually purchase a dedicated PSW for this setup. The only reason I'm adding to the clamor is the instructions in the MSW inverter suggest installing a torrid on the TV power line in the event of interference. Here on the left coast, we're generally out of the range of any OTA TV signals, so any kind of reception is not expected. Rather, our usage tends to be the rare movie, except when we have the G'kids... Then it's on most of the time. (These kids and screen time these days.. Sheesh!) I'm in the process of building a TV cabinet: The progress so far: Where I started with: More pics: TV cabinet construction on my photo hosting site.
BruceMc 02/11/22 08:30am Tech Issues
RE: Overhead entertainment center removal

Hi BobNDot! (and Happy Christmas & Merrrrrry New Year, everyone!) I was surprised to see this topic bubble to the top... and see some of my images are missing from the followup posts. Thanks for the compliments! The injury is all healed up; all I have left is a slight dent in my finger and the loss of pride, though I have a story that I wouldn't have otherwise had. The injury was minor, all things considered, but it forced me to re-examine my work practices. Complacency Breeds Contempt... it'll get you every time, sooner or later! I plan to work on the TV cabinet over my break during the first two weeks of January, but it depends on other factors pulling my time. If I get to it... I'll post the story and pics. Take care!
BruceMc 12/20/21 03:11pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Replaced/updated cheap ceiling speakers...

Thanks everyone! We have a yearly VIP (variable incentive pay) that has strict rules similar to your near-30 years, JK. A coworker decided she wanted to move on, and had quit at the end of the year. She thought she'd get the VIP for the year, but the rules stipulated that you had to be employed at the time of payout which was at the end of January... It was a nice VIP that year too, but she didn't see a dime of it. She wasn't very happy about it, but them's the rules! Back to this topic, I plan to start on the TV cabinet for my winter project. I had removed the TV from the center of the overhead not long after purchasing it, as we needed the overhead bunk. It has been my plan since then to build a cabinet on the right side to hold the TV and provide storage for the entertainment center items such as remotes, manuals, etc. I'll post pictures and the story once that's underway.
BruceMc 11/26/21 08:37am General RVing Issues
RE: Replaced/updated cheap ceiling speakers...

Very nice sound! I had issues initially, as they use a spring post for the connections rather than spade connectors. The passenger side one didn't work at all, and the driver side had an intermittant buzz. Thinking I got a bum speaker out of the box, I removed and checked the connections - while it was still connected, it was intermittant. I reset the wires, and it started working. I removed and re-installed the drivers side, and the buzz went away. It was probably touching something that was vibrating against the speaker housing.
BruceMc 11/25/21 10:32am General RVing Issues
Replaced/updated cheap ceiling speakers...

I received an unexpected anniversary award from my "new" company (400,000+ employees worldwide) after the company (3500 employees worldwide) I had worked for over the last 29 years was purchased. The old company had completely quit giving out anniversary awards, so I certainly didn't expect anything from the new outfit. Surprise, I got a 30 year award! The award? 488 points. Yep, points. To spend said points, I was constrained to an award website contracted by the company. They only had items, no gift cards or a way to convert 488 points into cash. After searching the site several times for something I wanted... anything... I finally arrived at two objects that I could use to improve the entertainment system in the Sunseeker: A new set of Yamaha NS-IC400 speakers ($150 value) and a new full HD Samsung 32" TV. The speakers arrived within a week, but the TV is not scheduled to ship until the end of December... maybe. Enough about the back story... I removed and measured the cheap ASAElectronics speakers (available from your favorite online store for $15/Pair!), and determined I had a depth issue. While the opening was 1/4" larger than needed, but still usable: The depth was a 1/4" shy of the 3 1/8" needed: So I set about designing and building a set of spacers. I considered various materials, and finally settled on some of the solid surface (Corian) left over from our countertop project. I had 4" strips, but needed these to be about 7" wide, so I laminated two panels with a finger joint & epoxy: and proceeded to turn these on the lathe. Solid surface is hard, and normally is machined with carbide tipped tools. I have HSS tools for lathe work, so I kept them sharp, and was able to convert the squares to discs, and cut the center opening. I used a roman ogee bit in the router for the edge profile, but the remainder of the work was done on the lathe: Results: More pics: Speaker Project
BruceMc 11/25/21 09:18am General RVing Issues
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 2  

New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2022 CWI, Inc. © 2022 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.