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 > Your search for posts made by 'BruceMc' found 42 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Changing a tire yourself

Yep - I even changed all 6 at once! Michelin recall project
BruceMc 10/23/21 09:37am Class C Motorhomes
RE: What do tow behind your Class C?

2012 GMC Canyon:
BruceMc 10/22/21 06:03pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: What kind of small/medium truck can be towed

^Hey are you brucemac with the Prostar 205V? No.... Prostar 205V? I'm "BruceMc", not "brucemac".
BruceMc 10/02/21 09:37am Dinghy Towing
RE: What kind of small/medium truck can be towed

We tow a 2012 GMC Canyon 4WD: Dead simple setup when readying to tow. Hook it to the tow bar, then flip a switch to enable supplemental brakes, as I installed the Demco Stay-N-Play braking. To put the transfer case in neutral, turn on the ignition, step on the brakes, put the gear selector in neutral, then hold 2H and 4L together for 10 seconds. After the N indicator lights up, put it in park and pull the key. Done. The 2nd Generation Colorado/Canyons are a bit more involved, but they are towable, as is the new Rangers. As Way2Roll mentioned, consult the towing guides, then download the user manuals for those vehicles you are interested in. If the towing guide says a vehicle is towable, then verify as the manufacture's user manuals are the definitive guide.
BruceMc 10/01/21 07:23pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Water heater sealing question

Butyl should be fine. Your post reminds me of our old fiver - the manufacturer cut a square hole, but then filled it with a square WH with rounded corners. While the facia covered the entire hole, there wasn't sufficient contact at the 4 corners to create a seal. I found this out by removing the wrap-around seats & seat panels at the rear of the fiver while working on other projects, and found the floor was soft under the seats. Upon chasing that, I found the source was this manufacturing defect, which allowed rain/wash water into the unit which flooded the floor. Because the floor vinyl wasn't sealed at the floor/wall intersections, water soaked into the particleboard flooring over preceding 7ish years before I purchased it. I replaced stringers and the subfloor in the rear 1/4 of that unit, and installed new vinyl which curled up the walls by an inch or so to prevent something like that from happening in the future. To fix the issue, I added corner blocks to the opening, then reinstalled the WH with a properly sealed facia/face plate. I used butyl tape, then sealed any small openings in the face plate with silicone. Several years later, leak free, we traded the fiver in on our first class C.
BruceMc 09/15/21 09:22am General RVing Issues
RE: Class C driver/passenger seats

Our 2250 Sunseeker on Chevy chassis has about a 2 1/2 inch step down, so that wouldn't fit your request. That said, I added a swivel to the passenger seat, and while the floor is a bit closer when swiveled, I don't mind. I can stretch my legs out a bit... right into everyone else's way! Passenger Seat Swivel mod. Perhaps the Mercedes Benz chassis based class Cs have a flat floor at that transition; the only way you'll find out for sure is to walk the lots.
BruceMc 08/11/21 08:51am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Where did you get THAT?

Uh, which THAT? B^) Sunseeker Photo Album As I review our projects, I recall the trials and tribulations of each, yet the satisfaction of all things we now take for granted. Perhaps the most work went into the swivel seat mod, but we also put a lot of effort into the new solid surface countertops. They've both paid so much in dividends in the terms of usefulness and longevity. Speaking of which, the new pleated blinds came in, so I gotta get busy & get the factory rollers replaced! I'll post pics and the story, of course.
BruceMc 08/02/21 02:48pm RV Lifestyle
RE: Brake Wire

When we had our 22' fifth wheel, the passenger front tire would always lock up but the others kept rolling... the problem wasn't necessarily the wire size, but how it was wired. The factory routed the wires along the right side of the trailer, then tapped off and ran across to the left side. The right front tire was first in the circuit. I rebuilt the wiring using a variety of sizes. As Larry Cad stated, each brake pulls around 3 amps at full braking. 3 amps is easily carried by 16 gauge, which is the same size as provided on the brake puck. I wired each of the 4 brakes to an equal length 16 gauge pigtail. At the center of each axle, I joined the pigtails to equal lengths of 14 gauge, then ran those back to the right frame rail. Those, then were joined to a 12 gauge lead that ran to the 7 pin plug. All connections were soldered, sealed with liquid tape, then protected with heat shrink. The point of this exercise was to provide equal current and voltage to each brake. From that point forward, I never slid one wheel, but could lock all four up if desired. It was a vastly different towing experience. All that said, the point isn't necessarily just the wire size, but how its wired. You don't need 10 or 8 gauge wire to each brake, that's overkill. But you do need to consider both the total current on each lead and how it's balanced. On the tow vehicle, you'll need an adequate size wire for the job. At 12-14 amps maximum for 4 brake trailers, 12 gauge (20 amp max) is all that is needed. In practice, you'll never pull 12-14 amps on a constant basis. I'd venture a guess that current during usual braking is commonly between 1 and, say 6 amps. Those who have current readouts on their brake controllers know the story.
BruceMc 07/21/21 08:41am Tech Issues
RE: Death Wobble Continues ....

I certainly believe it is the electric power steering that is the major contributor to DW. While we never towed out 2004 Malibu Maxx, it had a similar oddity at low speeds - the steering wheel would do a mild DW in my hands while the engine was at near idle, and making sharp turns as one would do in a parking lot. It was disconcerting, but never enough that would cause a problem. If we had towed that car, we may have encountered DW! Our 2012 Canyon has hydraulic power steering, BTW. I was surprised it still had the old hydraulic when we purchased it.
BruceMc 06/07/21 06:27pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Death Wobble Continues ....

It's my opinion (and purely that!) where part of the cause of DW is sloppy tow bar parts. Our new Roadmaster Falcon had 2" of side-to-side play over all of the connections: 1) Frame mounting brackets to baseplate bars 2) Baseplate bars to quick-disconnect crossbar 3) Crossbar to towbar 4) Towbar stinger to motorhome receiver Additionally, there was a half inch of up/down play between the crossbar and baseplates. All of this factory slop most certainly contributes to DW when towing vehicles that are susceptible to the condition. Before our first tow across Oregon, I put a lot of effort into reducing that slop by adding thin washers where possible, and reducing the slop in the baseplate bars to the frame brackets and the stinger to receiver. We never had an issue with DW as it all felt tight and solid. Stinger shims: Stinger clamp: Crossbar to Towbar shims: Crossbar to Towbar shims: Crossbar to Towbar vertical post shims: The one effect I noticed was the MH steering was twitchy, as the pickup would push left/right on the tail depending on the corners. It wasn't a big deal, but took a bit more focus than not towing.
BruceMc 06/01/21 09:55am Dinghy Towing
RE: Thought I killed my on board generator!

And, the number 40 represents the 40th formulation before they were satisfied with it. WD-40, Water Displacement, formula #40! It is NOT a general lubricant, tho it can be used as a short term mediocre lube.
BruceMc 05/22/21 08:26pm General RVing Issues
RE: Thought I killed my on board generator!

I made a similar mistake on our 2000 Four Winds several years ago. It had run fine for a couple of years, but I just had to clean it. Yes, OCD… Mistake. It would run but all it would do is surge real bad. The control board and electrics were fine, but I have no idea what I washed out of it to cause the issue. In the end, I twiddled with the governor until I got it to settle down. It ran fine after that. The heck of it is, that generator still starts easier than the one on our 2016 motorhome. Lesson learned, never wash your generator! Like Gritdog, if there was a nice quiet inverter generator out there, they'd quickly replace all these 60 year old technology Onans.
BruceMc 05/22/21 12:32pm General RVing Issues
RE: Lifting my class C

This was very informative I did not realize the Chevy chassis had more GC at the hitch. Is the difference significant say 2 ins or more? I guess the real question when one starts looking at 24 ft Class C's what is the min GC they should look for at the hitch so it does not drag? Given all other factors are the same, I'd agree. That said, I think the manufacturers have significantly reduced the rear overhang in their designs, independent of chassis in the last couple of decades; rarely do you see newer MHs with those types of overhangs. I'd venture to say the hitch GC between GM and Ford is more insignificant these days, depending on the needs of the owner. While GC is important, there's also a lot more factors that goes into choosing a particular chassis, such as: o Choice amongst existing stock - you'll find Ford under 95% of those units, and 100% for specific manufacturers. (or MB Sprinters, or Dodge...) o If you have a chance to order a new MH (or procure an existing unit) with a choice of chassis, compare the differences in cab room, drive-ability, power, desire for a particular brand (I favor GM over Ford, for dozens of reasons), etc. We liked the house on the Four Winds a little better than the Sunseeker, but we love the GM chassis on the latter. As always, they are way to large on the outside and way to small on the inside!
BruceMc 05/14/21 10:55am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Lifting my class C

Ah, I found them! These stories relate to this thread due to the high-centering events... Enjoy! First, the Cat Encounter Story, then the other 8 Disasters...
BruceMc 05/14/21 09:33am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Lifting my class C

I tended to take that Four Winds into places where I shouldn't have gone, and and a result, ended up high-centering it on more than one occasion. Two of those occurrences were on the same trip - the first, I was able to dig my way free, but I needed help on the second one. I solicited the help of a Toyota pickup owner who didn't think he could help me. It didn't take much, but we were free again. Take your time, learn your rig and enjoy! You'll become accustomed to the attack and departure angles that cause interference, and how to approach similar ones in the future. I learned to pull in at an angle rather than head on, if at all possible. Sometimes it became a game - are we gonna drag the tail? We'd slow down to lessen the impact, and more often than not, the tail wheel did its job. This unit had big casters on the hitch, one had been damaged by the previous owner. They were anchors, in my opinion, not helpers. That's why I went with a single roller that didn't hang down. Granted, it got slid sideways on occasion, but it was a rolling slide. It helped a lot. I should post my "9 disaster trip" story again one of these days - seems to put inactive threads in archive after a year, then purges them. My older posts are long gone. With the combination of fully inflated airbags on the rear axle, helpful roller(s), and driving technique, you'll do fine. Enjoy!
BruceMc 05/14/21 09:21am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Lifting my class C

BruceMc said: ... Do you mean the GC of the front end is less than ford, and it raises the rear end? Most gas 24 ft C's have the 158-159 WB so I assume the over hang is pretty much the same. Is there a minimum GC at the rear hitch you need so it does not drag? There's two factors at play here. First, and perhaps more important, is the length of the overhang. Let's say you have two motorhomes where both are on the same chassis with the same wheelbase, but one is 24' and the other is 27'. As there's 3 more feet behind the wheels, there's a lot more chance for interference - the hitch will be in contact with the ground more frequently. Secondly, because the GM chassis front end rides lower than Ford, that increases the GC (ground clearance) at the hitch, given the ride height is the same at the rear axle. If you have two motorhomes of the same model on GM and Ford with the same/similar WB (wheelbase), the GC of the hitch will ride higher on the GM due to the lower ride height, again, given the ride height is the same at the rear axle.
BruceMc 05/14/21 08:24am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Lifting my class C

We used to fill the Firestone airbags with the home compressor before each trip; one had a verrry slow leak. Otherwise, they were fine during the trip; no adjustments needed. Regarding tires: I've been considering changing the size on the Sunseeker, not for ride height, but to provide a bit better tire to tire clearance between the duals. Here's a chart to get you started. These numbers were pulled from Discount Tire's website for the ranges I was interested in: 235 85 16. Overall Diameter 31.7 245 75 16. Overall Diameter 30.5 215 85 16. Overall Diameter 30.4 - Current tires on the Canyon 235 75 16. Overall Diameter 29.8 - 2012 Canyon OEM size 245 70 16. Overall Diameter 29.53 225 75 16. Overall Diameter 29.13 - Motorhome/First Canyon replacements 215 75 16. Overall Diameter 28.9 As noted, I put LT215/85 16 on the Canyon this time. I had P225/85 16 before, but the speedometer was off by about 3mph at normal highway speeds and was off a bit less with the original P235/75 16 tires. I also wanted a more durable tire for our back-country runs, tho the P tires were never an issue. The LT215/85 16 are the standard tire size on Sprinter vans, if I'm not mistaken. On the springs: I had found a shop in Portland (Oregon Auto Spring Services, if I recall) that would re-curve the existing, or replace with a new spring set on our Four Winds. I never did either... I sold the Four Winds and got the Sunseeker instead. Problem solved (for me).
BruceMc 05/13/21 12:54pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Lifting my class C

Is this tail dragging an issue for all short Class C's or only certain ones. I notice some rear overhangs taper up slightly from the rear wheels and some have a more defined taper starting half way between rear tires and back bumper. Is one a better design than the other? The older Four Winds certainly were designed with a long overhang, as shown by the OP's original image: Ours was 27'; it had that long overhang as well: I had those airbags inflated to maximum pressure as much as possible: Our Sunseeker on Chevy is 24'; due to the shorter overhang and the lower frontend typical of GM's cutaway chassis, we've never touched the tail on any surface: It all depends on the manufacturer, model and the chassis.
BruceMc 05/13/21 08:16am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Lifting my class C

In addition to installing the airbags to lift the tail a couple inches, here's my solution to our '00 Four Winds 5000 butt dragging: This resulted in a tiny decrease in clearance, but allowed things to "roll along" instead of digging in: More projects on our Four Winds 5000.
BruceMc 05/12/21 08:00am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Solidifying shower floor??

Thanks for the kudos, folks! Let's hope these suggestions help kfp673 and others facing this, or similar issues. BTW, for those who haven't seen my images and posts by now, here's a pair of links to my motorhome project pages: 2000 Four Winds 5000 26Q 2016 Sunseeker 2250SLEC Enjoy!
BruceMc 04/13/21 08:29am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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