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 > Your search for posts made by 'CJM1973' found 26 matches.

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RE: AGM Battery Charging with Solar

I would hit the middle on those specs. 14.7 absorption, 13.6 float. Probably two hour absorption time... maybe a little more for heavy use and less for actual storage between trips. Not sure if Victron adjusts for this automatically. Yes I agree undercharging is generally a bigger issue than overcharging. Thank you. That's what I was leaning towards. The Victron is highly adjustable. Now you got me thinking though. I'm wondering if I should change float parameters when the coach is in storage (let's say longer than a month). The only loads would be parasitic loads from the CO /Propane detectors, radio, and battery monitors. THoughts?
CJM1973 06/30/20 03:55pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: AGM Battery Charging with Solar

I didn't mention this but it may be relevant. I've installed a DC to DC charger running from the the TV's starter battery. So between that (transit times to different campsites) and the coach's onboard 55 amp 4 stage charger (used at times with an inverter generator and shore power), I'm not worried too much about keeping the batteries topped off. I more concerned about what the "end stage" paraneters should be for battery longevity. Pianotuna, I'm going to heed your advice. Thanks.
CJM1973 06/30/20 03:14pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: AGM Battery Charging with Solar

Pretty much all lead acid jars need to be fully charged. It is a bit harder to "recover" an AGM that has been left partially charged. It will also be important to wire the batteries in a balanced manner. For an odd number of batteries only method #3 from the link below will work. correctly interconnecting multiple twelve volt batteries Thanks for the advice. I did read that AGM's are temperamental with subpar charging parameters. This is why I'm trying to identify the ideal charging characteristics of these AGMs. I think I'll stay with the battery manufacturer's recommendations.
CJM1973 06/30/20 06:15am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: AGM Battery Charging with Solar

Michigan ranks 47 out of the 48 Continental States in available Sunshine. Not understanding the response here??? Some people actually travel outside of Michigan on their RV vacations. In fact, 90% of our planned trips are somewhere other than my home state. I'm wondering if I should RV vacation in the 48th state. ;)
CJM1973 06/30/20 06:05am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
AGM Battery Charging with Solar

This is my first attempt ever at solar so I'm learning as I go. I've recently installed two 100 watt polycrystalline panels on the roof of my RV. I have a relatively new bank of AGM deep cycle 12 Volt batteries from Weize (three 100 amp hours). I purchased and use a Victron 712 battery monitor (which works great). I decided to buy a Victron Bluesolar 100/20 amp solar charge controller to harness the panel voltage. The problem I'm faced with is the recommended settings on that controller for my battery type and brand. I'm reading conflicting advice online. Weize has this stickered on each battery: Cycle use: 14.5 - 14.9V Stand-by use: 13.5 - 13.8V I've read that AGMs should be limited to 14.4V during cycle use (I'm assuming this is another name for asorbsion??) and 13.2V for Stand-by use (another name for float charge??) I've also read that undercharging weakens AGMs more than overcharging. Not sure if this a truly accepted statement. I'm looking for ideal charging parameters for the longest life of these batteries. In addition, I did purchase the temperature sensor for the Victron SCC. Any help with these controller settings is much appreciated.
CJM1973 06/29/20 10:44pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Generator at High Altitude

Take a look at this: http://help.championpowerequipment.com/article/9v2ag4ofvm-altitude-jet-installation-for-3-k-w-dual-fuel-inverters
CJM1973 03/01/20 11:40pm Tech Issues
RE: Securing Generator To A Cargo Carrier On A Receiver Hitch

2) I would get nervous with a 100lb generator plus another 100lb of gas...that's a lot of weight and the back of a trailer can move around quite a bit on rough roads. ------------------------------------------ The gen weighs 80 pounds and the gas can 40, so 120 pounds not 200. And what are those carriers designed to carry, feather pillows? I usually see big ice chests full of water and cans. OP said 95lb generator and a couple cans of gas...that can get up pretty close to 200lb. I see people doing scary stuff too...doesn't mean I would recommend it. If things shift on the rack, that's a lot of torsion on the 2" receiver and some have a pretty sloppy fit in the receiver, so I've seen them flopping around. A bad weld or using the paper thin rear bumper for support and after a few thousand miles on rough roads (OP is heading to alaska), and a failure is a real possibility if not a solid design. The trailers receiver hitch is not oem. It was fabricated by a metal shop that specilizes in hitches. It was secured and reinforced to the frame rails by a professional fabricator/welder. It looks better than any class three hitch I've seen on most motor vehicles. I've seen some sketchy bumper mounted receiver hitches that are about as polar opposite as my frame mounted trailer hitch. So, quality is a mute point. It's a 95 lb generator and two 2.5 gallon cans of fuel (30 lbs). The cargo carrier is approx 55 lbs. Would be well under 200 lbs.
CJM1973 03/01/20 11:05pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Securing Generator To A Cargo Carrier On A Receiver Hitch

Thanks for sharing. I do have the option of installing a receiver hitch on the front of my tow vehicle, a 1 ton GMC Savana 3500 extended passenger van. But, I'm not keen on keeping a covered generator and gas can on the cargo carrier in plane view. I would like to see how you fabricated the mounts to your cargo carrier. Do you have a pic of it? Just looking for ideas. I thought about fabricating some metal strapping up and over the top of the generator and bolting the ends to the cargo carrier's frame. That would take care of both the mounting issue and security issue. I could then apply a metal cage over top and cover with an oversized cover.
CJM1973 03/01/20 08:16am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Securing Generator To A Cargo Carrier On A Receiver Hitch

The 3500/4000 inverter champion is also very quiet so I would run yours on the cargo rack before building anything just to see how it goes. Goes inside and sit down for a few minutes to see if it is tolerable. I had my 2800/3100 inverter generator on the front of my trailer for deer camp and it worked out great. The Westinghouse is the same and truly is an Inverter generator. Can't use the front this time as the space is all taken by my tongue box and battery bank. So, I'm looking for security solutions on the rear with a cargo carrier. BTW, I was unaware that Champion manufactured an insulated inverter generator in a 3500/4000 series. The only one that I found was a 64 dBA construction frame genny (compared to 52 dBA on the Westinghouse). But I digress.
CJM1973 02/29/20 12:33pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Securing Generator To A Cargo Carrier On A Receiver Hitch

If you run the gen on the carrier the noise and vibration inside will not be very tolerable. I did it once for 5 minutes or so. This is a very quiet Westinghouse inverter generator. It's not an open frame generator. Similar to a Champion 3100/2800 Inverter generator. Noise is comparable to a Honda.
CJM1973 02/29/20 11:40am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
Securing Generator To A Cargo Carrier On A Receiver Hitch

Looking for ideas on the best way to secure a 3700 watt inverter generator to a rear cargo carrier attached to a trailer's frame mounted reciever hitch. Genny weighs about 95 lbs. I've seen a couple of products online, one being a locking tray that attaches to a reciever hitch: Generator tray for receiver hitch As I would like to use my larger 60x24" cargo carrier (to carry additional fuel), what have RV owners done to fabricate something like this with an existing carrier? Pics would be helpful. I thought about constructing a 5-sided expanded metal box to slip over the generator, bolting it down to the carrier and punching out 2 windows for front panel and fill cap access. I could then slip over a waterproof cover and it would be hidden from view. The plan is to make power accessibility extremely easy for an up coming 2 month alaskan adventure. As we'll be moving pretty frequently, it would be nice to be able to remove the cover, connect the 30 amp trailer plug, and use the wireless remote to start/stop the genny without ever having to move it. Again, any pics on how to best secure a generator tona cargo carrier are appreciated.
CJM1973 02/29/20 10:00am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Fifth Wheel to TT?

A Hensley Arrow or Propride 3P will solve all sway issues any pull behind trailer may have. Generally speaking, there is a significant cost savings in buying a travel trailer over a similar-floorplan 5ver. These savings can more than pay for one of these premium hitches. The lower profile TT is also at much less risk of a roof strike in low tree-canopy subdivisions. This is my reality.
CJM1973 02/29/20 09:20am Travel Trailers
RE: Tow Vehicle Battery and Alternator

BTW...These photos do not show a quick disconnect on the 12v+ lead that is feeding the on/off switch. In this configuration, no wire is needed from the licence plate wire. Thanks for posting the pics. Very helpful. What is the LC terminal for? So you wired in a fused switch between the (+) input and control terminal?
CJM1973 02/26/20 08:34am Tech Issues
RE: Tow Vehicle Battery and Alternator

I have two tow vehicles, RAM 2500 with 220a alternator and Toyota Venza with 150a alternator. I use a Renogy 40a DC to DC charger in both for charging batteries in a small off-road tent camper or a large toy hauler. Both vehicles have 2g wire from front battery to charger in rear. The Renogy works way above my expectations. Amazing product. I've been experimenting using my vehicle to idle and charge the battery. After 20 minutes charging I'm seeing very little heat rise on either alternator.using laser thermometer. And with a AGM group 31, 100ah, 60% battery, I'm back up to 90% after 20 minutes. I no longer carry a bulky generator to off grid charge batteries when the sun isn't hitting my solar panels. Do a Search on YouTube for Will Prowse. He is amazing and has done a great test on this Renogy unit. Thanks for the late input. Good to hear that it's been working great for you. I have yet to install the Renogy DC to DC charger in my tow vehicle as we are still in the middle of winter in Michigan. How did you wire the control terminal on the unit? Did you use your tow vehicle's ignition circuit? I have 4G wire (both pos & neg) to run from the TV's battery to the input on the Renogy unit. I'm wondering if I can just tap into the trailer's tail lights or do I need to run a dedicated 16-18G wire from the vehicle's ignition wire. House Batteries and Renogy are installed in a tongue box on the travel trailer. I would prefer only to have one 2-pin connector from TV to trailer. Just curious to how yours is wired.
CJM1973 02/26/20 07:29am Tech Issues
RE: MIA - Mexico

He PM'd me about 6 days ago regarding some advice on DC to DC 12 volt charging via an alternator.
CJM1973 11/15/19 05:04pm General RVing Issues
RE: Tow Vehicle Battery and Alternator

One last question regarding my new AGM battery bank. What are the ideal charging parameters to set my AC to DC converter at? Bulk, absorption, and float. I think temperature has a play in the equation. Considering the money spent on these AGM batteries, I would like to have them around for awhile and avoid any overcharging scenario. We usually camp in fair weather temps (60-80*F). From my understanding, our trip to Alaska will have such a broad range of temps. I'm coming out of flooded GC2 batteries.
CJM1973 11/11/19 05:40am Tech Issues
RE: Tow Vehicle Battery and Alternator

Well...Learn something new every day.....Looking at Renogy Install Manual "When selecting a location for the DCDC, make sure that the unit is as close as possible to the battery you will be charging (auxiliary battery). " I had read on a few other sites to put it close to the main battery.....Don't trust everything you read on the internet.. :-) Yeah, I learned early on that there are a bunch of liars on it...except for maybe RV .net. ;) I bought a water proof tongue box that I will install it in along with my 3 AGM 100 AH batteries. Between the new battery bank and this new DCDC charger, I our Alaska trip will be less reliant on firing up the old inverter generator. I'm bringing one just to be safe.
CJM1973 11/10/19 08:13pm Tech Issues
RE: Tow Vehicle Battery and Alternator

Looks like there is loads of miss information on this thread....About hooking a DC to DC directly to the Alternator....NO About mounting the DC to DC at the trailer... I don't think so Check out this excellent video of realtime testing of Renogy DC to DC https://youtu.be/EcVjPap9dkY https://youtu.be/EcVjPap9dkY Thanks. Seen the video. Everywhere I've read says to mount the dcdc charger closest to the house batteries. Haven't read otherwise.
CJM1973 11/10/19 07:32pm Tech Issues
RE: Tow Vehicle Battery and Alternator

Sorry - late to the party.... Personally, I prefer external regulation/control on non ecu controlled vehicles. Check the link for info...this is one source. https://alternatorparts.com/quicktifier-external-bridge-rectifier.html details of how this works has been detailed by Mexicowanderer here many times. Interesting. I will investigate.
CJM1973 11/07/19 03:09pm Tech Issues
RE: Tow Vehicle Battery and Alternator

I'm going to purchase and install the 40 amp DC to DC charger. Couple questions though. A signal control (ignition line) is required to activate this device. Considering the application is a tow behind trailer, can I use the 7 pin trailer harness to tap into for a 12 volt source instead of running a separate line all the way back to the TV's ignition circuit? It would either be the #4 pin (aux) or #3 pin (tail/running lights). I think the tail lights would be a better option as I could control the unit's power via the headlight switch. Thoughts? Most newer trucks switch off power to the plug with key off. With that said you would need to disconnect or install a diode to keep the trailer from back feeding and causing the charger to stay on. Any 12 volt circuit that would turn off when you want it to will work. Also, the Renogy wiring diagram shows both positive and negative lines running from the starter battery to the DCDC charger. Is it possible to just wire in a negative line to the chassis of the TV (near the hitch) and run that along side the positive line from the starter battery? I would use a dual pole plug & socket like the Tectran recommended earlier in the thread. I would not have an issue with using the frame as a ground.(just make sure battery to frame cable is adequate.) Also, I would wire in a fuse or breaker on the positive feed near the starter battery. Is a 60 amp ok for 6 AWG wire? What is preferred, breaker or fuse? If you used a breaker, you would not need to carry a spare. Either will work. Finally, there are dip switches on the charger that customize the charging profile of the battery bank. Considering I'm using flooded GC2 6 volt batteries, what is the recommended absorption and float "end-of-charge" voltages for my configuration? If it were me 14.7 and 13.2(you could bump up to 13.5 or 13.8 if you are using a lot of power. Thanks a bunch. AWG cable, breaker, plug ends, and DCDC charger are on their way. Hopefully, the weather holds out so I can get this project behind me before thanksgiving.
CJM1973 11/07/19 01:38pm Tech Issues
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