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RE: Back up camera recommendations?

I'm looking into some cameras for my truck and camper before I leave on my trip. I'll let you know what products I decide.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 12/02/22 07:10pm Truck Campers
RE: DC to DC charger

The best thing about Lithium is they always put out 13.2 volts thanks to the BMS. Lead batteries, all types, slowly drop voltage as they discharge causing brown out conditions like dim lights, slow pump motors, and weak other loads. Not so with Lithium. 13.2 volts stable all the way down to 80 or 90% discharge and then the BMS protection shuts it off till recharged. Lithium is like having your cake and eating it too. now thats not true, at 90% discharged the voltage of a LiFePO4 battery is only 12.0V if you would have said they put out over 12V untill 90% discharged then yes that is true and still a huge advantage over a wet battery which hits 12V at about 50% discharged. an even better advantage of the LiFePO4 is the voltage level under load, you can discharge much deeper befor you get alarms from your inverter from low voltage. a flooded battery can drop to 11.5V at 100% charged if it has a C/3 load on it, so basicly a 100 amp battery with a 33amp load will dip pretty fast, which is why for big rigs people run 4 6V batteries or more. Lifepo4 doesnt have this issue to that degree as you can do a C1 discharge and stay above 12V to 90% discharge which would be a 100 amp draw on a 100amp battery. so in a way your right just your numbers are off a little. I will agree that you have a more precise answer. The bigger the load, the more likely the voltage will drop and that effect will increase the more it is discharged. Nonetheless, the voltage is more stable than lead.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 11/30/22 03:07pm Truck Campers
RE: DC to DC charger

All in all, life is better with Lithium Iron batteries. Better still with a dc to dc charger. Disconnect the 7 pin power wire from charging your batteries, it is no longer needed and may cause a feedback loop. Your dc to dc charger will be feeding a higher voltage back to the alternator and computer through that wire if left connected and you don't want that, weird stuff can happen. Right now, I'm in the TC with my 400 AH batteries at 80% charge because there was no sun to speak of today to charge them. Tomorrow I'll go for a drive and my 30 amp dc to dc charger will give them a good charge back up in an hours time. Enough to get a nice bacon cheese burger and walk along the beach. My 675 watts of solar on the roof and the MPPT Victron history shows I got a peak of 53 watts for a couple hours today. The redundancy of the 30 amp dc to dc charger is so nice to have. My 10 year old BoonDocker 45 amp shore power supply has something wrong with it and is only putting out 4 amps. I'm going to replace it with a Victron 3000 watt inverter power supply when I get down to Quartzite. The best thing about Lithium is they always put out 13.2 volts thanks to the BMS. Lead batteries, all types, slowly drop voltage as they discharge causing brown out conditions like dim lights, slow pump motors, and weak other loads. Not so with Lithium. 13.2 volts stable all the way down to 80 or 90% discharge and then the BMS protection shuts it off till recharged. Lithium is like having your cake and eating it too.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 11/29/22 10:34pm Truck Campers
RE: Truck Camper Adventure Rally

I'll be there. Had a great time last year.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 11/17/22 12:38am Truck Campers
RE: Hot Water Recirculation Loop - Save Water - Camp Longer

The pump would only need to run a total of maybe 40 seconds total a day pressing the switch, 6 seconds per use. Not much power. True enough. But if I'm going to go to the trouble of plumbing in a hot water loop, I don't want to wait at all. Besides, our Host camper takes at least twice that time to get hot water to the kitchen sink. I'd like to see how you do it. A Grundfoss Pump is big, heavy, and reliable. You might have a different pump solution. Keep us in the loop. A little plumbing joke there...
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 10/15/22 06:27pm Truck Campers
RE: Hot Water Recirculation Loop - Save Water - Camp Longer

That works great in a residential application but in the RV, I only want the pump to run when needed, not constantly. Battery conservation. I only need 6 seconds of run time on the pump to get hot to the sink. A residential setup has a recirculating pump that runs all the time, at preset times on timer, or at a set temperature. Typically, the loop is taken from the last fixture in line and so should the return line in this setup. My pipes are all insulated and have 1" foamboard plus the TC wall insulating them from the outside in cold temperatures. The pipes are also run together with insulation tube over them and the heater vent hose next to them. The pipes are pretty well protected from freezing. But a recirculating pump takes little amperage compared to the pressure pump. The pressure pump would see no difference in usage -- in fact, less, as it would not have the extra duty of pumping cold water out of the lines. We are skiers, and in the RV lot can often see zero-degree temps for a day or two at a time. Keeping water flowing at those temps requires a space heater in our camper's basement, which draws a lot more than a recirculating pump. Since we have plug-in power up there, a few more ticks isn't an issue. The pump would only need to run a total of maybe 40 seconds total a day pressing the switch, 6 seconds per use. Not much power.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 10/15/22 11:41am Truck Campers
RE: Hot Water Recirculation Loop - Save Water - Camp Longer

Just watched the video, now I get what is meant by the OP's use of the term "recirculating." He is describing recycling cold water back to the main tank. To me, I was thinking "instant on" recirculating hot water, which creates a loop from and back to the hot water tank, which is driven by a recirculating pump, different than the main pressure pump. This loop is always heated, and when a hot water fixture is used the pressure drop in the loop turns on the main pump which actually provides the driving force for water to come out of the faucet. This would keep the hot water from freezing; the back-to-main-tank loop would not. With properly insulated lines it should not pull too much extra duty from the hot water tank. This is how it works in my house -- even in rooms farthest away from my boiler/hot water tank I have hot water right away. That works great in a residential application but in the RV, I only want the pump to run when needed, not constantly. Battery conservation. I only need 6 seconds of run time on the pump to get hot to the sink. A residential setup has a recirculating pump that runs all the time, at preset times on timer, or at a set temperature. Typically, the loop is taken from the last fixture in line and so should the return line in this setup. My pipes are all insulated and have 1" foamboard plus the TC wall insulating them from the outside in cold temperatures. The pipes are also run together with insulation tube over them and the heater vent hose next to them. The pipes are pretty well protected from freezing.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 10/14/22 05:10pm Truck Campers
RE: Hot Water Recirculation Loop - Save Water - Camp Longer

First, I have installed a recirculation/conserving system in my campers since 1995. Second, the water should return to the cold holding tank. If the water was hot at the faucet you don’t need to recirculate it. The reason to recirculate is to get hot water to the faucet and return the cold water in the line to the tank, Third, I use a cheap inline irrigation valve ($10 to $12) and a $2 doorbell button. No need to go to specialty valves and pumps. But the stainless-steel valve looks so nice, and the button has that pretty blue light when you push it. Appearance has to be worth something. Just kidding, if it works, that's all it needs to do.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 10/14/22 04:18pm Truck Campers
RE: Hot Water Recirculation Loop - Save Water - Camp Longer

This might be useful for winter camping. Hot water won't freeze up. Although shouldn't the recirculation return to the hot water tank, not the main tank? At least this is how I plumbed my house's recirc. heat. The water needs to return to the low pressure side of the pump to cause a pressure drop so the pump will start. Returning to the water heater has no pressure drop because it's on the pressure side of the pump so the pump won't activate because no pressuredrophappens. You could return water to the cold Input of the water heater but to make it work, you would need a small pump and a check valve to prevent backflow. Another way to connect if you can make room is to put the return connection to the pipe between the tank and the pump. This way, there is a low pressure connection to the fresh tank and the water will recirulate directly into the intake side of the pump and get pumped right back out into the system, not into the tank neet idea but I think if I were to implement this I would not return it to the tank but rather create a loop from the hot water heater and use a small circ pump. that way you could use it even if you had water hookups but now sewer. True, it won't work when hooked up to citi water but then it's an endless supply of water so running the water to get hot doesn't matter since water is unlimited. When hooked up to city water, I run the water anyway to get the hose smell and taste from the hose out of the line. I have a blue hose that isn't supposed to smell but it does, just not as bad as the white hose. I thought this was about not filling the waist take up as fast. I have camped in several places that have water and power but you dump on the way out if there is a dump. ya I have both a blue and white house in the 5th wheel, the only thing I noticed about the blue one is it costs more ;) I'm posting mostly to see how deeply imbedded this post can get. I only hook up to water if I have a sewer connection, otherwise we'll use electric if it's there but pass on just city water.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 10/14/22 04:13pm Truck Campers
RE: Hot Water Recirculation Loop - Save Water - Camp Longer

Having flushed more than one water heating tank I would not want to return from it to my fresh water tank . But that’s just me I can guarantee you there is not much difference in internal appearance between your home hot water heater and your RV water heater. Being from Seattle, we enjoy as clean and soft water as you can get anywhere so inside the tank doesn't look too bad. I have never gotten a cup of water heater water at any sink location that looked in the least bit questionable. I have no problem drinking hot water in the shower or brushing teeth. Never had a problem with it. Even so, the amount that will find it's way back into the fresh tank is small so I'm just not worried. If it really bothers you, you can connect the return line to just between the tank and the pump. That way, tank mixing will be nearly 0 and the loop water will simply be drawn into the pump and recirculated immediately back to the water heater.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 10/13/22 04:19pm Truck Campers
RE: Hot Water Recirculation Loop - Save Water - Camp Longer

This might be useful for winter camping. Hot water won't freeze up. Although shouldn't the recirculation return to the hot water tank, not the main tank? At least this is how I plumbed my house's recirc. heat. The water needs to return to the low pressure side of the pump to cause a pressure drop so the pump will start. Returning to the water heater has no pressure drop because it's on the pressure side of the pump so the pump won't activate because no pressuredrophappens. You could return water to the cold Input of the water heater but to make it work, you would need a small pump and a check valve to prevent backflow. Another way to connect if you can make room is to put the return connection to the pipe between the tank and the pump. This way, there is a low pressure connection to the fresh tank and the water will recirulate directly into the intake side of the pump and get pumped right back out into the system, not into the tank neet idea but I think if I were to implement this I would not return it to the tank but rather create a loop from the hot water heater and use a small circ pump. that way you could use it even if you had water hookups but now sewer. True, it won't work when hooked up to citi water but then it's an endless supply of water so running the water to get hot doesn't matter since water is unlimited. When hooked up to city water, I run the water anyway to get the hose smell and taste from the hose out of the line. I have a blue hose that isn't supposed to smell but it does, just not as bad as the white hose.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 10/13/22 12:09pm Truck Campers
RE: Hot Water Recirculation Loop - Save Water - Camp Longer

LOL. I use a bucket to catch the water you are saving. My way is way cooler than a bucket and I don't have to screw around with lose water splashing about. Sure it cost time and money, being retired, I have lots of both. I know the water going back into the tank is clean. Bucket water is good for toilets. The water is much more useful to me in the tank! Well, decades back, plumbing my aunt's new house I ran 3 lines to each fixture that use hot water. Uncle figured the solar heater could heat water recirculating back to tank not need to waste water or the electricity to heat it. Aunt loves not waiting for hot water. My house, built in '50s, I have a small tank heater under the kitchen sink. A timer turns it off/on so I have instant hot water when I'm most likely cooking/cleaning. Yes, the bucket is used in bathroom then flushes toilet when needed. I'm not saying your idea is bad. But when you think about the small percentage of time most RV owners spend in them compared to S&B the idea would be better in homes. BTW, for the people that want to extend time on tanks; Save your dish wash water in a bucket w/lid, use to flush saves fresh and grey water tank space. Capture and save dish rinse water. Heat fresh, add to that rinse for next wash.Valve and As a retired home builder, I've installed several recirculation systems. I spend a solid 5 months a year in my TC. Much of it in remote locations. Thismod will work well for me. I don't want to have to think about things, I just want them to work and be convenient. With all the improvements I've made to my TC, it's pretty darn convenient especially with the solar, just like a house now only smaller a d the bathroom should be 2 inches wider. Or I should be 30 pounds thinner.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 10/13/22 12:01pm Truck Campers
RE: Solar Install

That tape is only as strong as what it's attached to. A screw into a roof member with a quality adhesive caulk works every time.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 10/12/22 09:22pm Truck Campers
RE: Hot Water Recirculation Loop - Save Water - Camp Longer

Bravo Jeff, that is truly a most logical and creative idea Sir, saving precious water while conserving gray tank space all in one fell swoop - Yea!! :C What is the source and model of the solenoid valve?? 3 tons Valve is "US Solid" half inch stainless steel body solenoid $42.00 Momentary push button switch with LED 10 amp rated by Apiele $16.00 Both from AMAZON. Switch
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 10/12/22 08:54pm Truck Campers
RE: Hot Water Recirculation Loop - Save Water - Camp Longer

This might be useful for winter camping. Hot water won't freeze up. Although shouldn't the recirculation return to the hot water tank, not the main tank? At least this is how I plumbed my house's recirc. heat. The water needs to return to the low pressure side of the pump to cause a pressure drop so the pump will start. Returning to the water heater has no pressure drop because it's on the pressure side of the pump so the pump won't activate because no pressuredrophappens. You could return water to the cold Input of the water heater but to make it work, you would need a small pump and a check valve to prevent backflow. Another way to connect if you can make room is to put the return connection to the pipe between the tank and the pump. This way, there is a low pressure connection to the fresh tank and the water will recirulate directly into the intake side of the pump and get pumped right back out into the system, not into the tank
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 10/12/22 08:45pm Truck Campers
RE: Hot Water Recirculation Loop - Save Water - Camp Longer

LOL. I use a bucket to catch the water you are saving. My way is way cooler than a bucket and I don't have to screw around with lose water splashing about. Sure it cost time and money, being retired, I have lots of both. I know the water going back into the tank is clean. Bucket water is good for toilets. The water is much more useful to me in the tank!
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 10/12/22 04:05pm Truck Campers
RE: We knew it was coming...

The market and prices will do what they do. Go up, go down, As it is now, it has been before. Where it ends up, it has been before. That's economics. I have an older truck and camper. Save The Money! Both serve me very well. Looking forward to another 3 months on the road soon in my faithful, paid off Truck and Camper. Truck Camper Rally in Quartzite February for one. See some of you there!
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 10/12/22 01:16pm Truck Campers
Hot Water Recirculation Loop - Save Water - Camp Longer

A Great Truck Camper / RV Modification How to Install A Hot Water Recirculation Loop Or Recovery Loop Save Fresh Water And Extend Your Camping Trip A Day Or Two With Water Saved By Not Running It Down The Drain While Waiting For Hot Water To Arrive At The Faucet VIDEO Hot Water Recirculation Loop VIDEO https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/311774170_10223835299050593_9024830605856594546_n.jpg?stp=cp0_dst-jpg_e15_fr_q65&_nc_cat=101&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=1480c5&efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&_nc_ohc=pEEwllwHK50AX_FiKhS&_nc_ht=scontent-sea1-1.xx&oh=00_AT8SQr_a3xknn9JtnMzEDnRdOkckSfq7sVQiMEZ98996-w&oe=634CD963 width=500 Valve and switch https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/311600230_10223835317611057_229775350637592046_n.jpg?stp=cp0_dst-jpg_e15_fr_q65&_nc_cat=111&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=1480c5&efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&_nc_ohc=3YXJy1BUwuoAX9uWknr&_nc_oc=AQnUmLES2gNiJ_iJ39DplpHVZMq4J_atIt22Ifg5aunoI14z7TQ4BBE3owk9SA80V83KAJk8bRryjZQzycfTh_rw&_nc_ht=scontent-sea1-1.xx&oh=00_AT_DB4VJo8NAk-napZfMR_Wb0OxynD-sMbwVE5yXKQfvPA&oe=634CC975 width=500 Return Loop into Fresh tank https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/311665676_10223835306050768_374941738017358567_n.jpg?stp=cp0_dst-jpg_e15_fr_q65&_nc_cat=106&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=1480c5&efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&_nc_ohc=UFyQt5wJ4hQAX-VO4Td&_nc_ht=scontent-sea1-1.xx&oh=00_AT8Vdv7tXxkBi3QkeM1NzuackTMEuMqGXYi1Qsto28NSyA&oe=634BB182 width=500 Return Loop from kitchen sink Hot, to solenoid valve then back into fresh tank.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 10/12/22 11:28am Truck Campers
RE: Occasional Winter Camping??

I spent a couple months on the road camping in winter before. My best improvement was putting a couple sheets of lattice fencing in the cab over for breathability with 1" RMAX foamboard on top under the mattress. That greatly helped keep the bed warmer. The other thing was to get a set of heavy flannel sheets. That was one of the biggest helps. Another trick I used was to sleep with my head at the foot of the bed, so it was more in the center of the camper and my feet out front of the cabover. That kept my head and body closer to the warm area of the camper and my feet in the colder area. I like having my feet cooler. I like my comfort, so My furnace is set to not less than 62 degrees at night and 65 or 70 in the day, whatever it takes to be comfortable. I have 400 AH of lithium and 675 watts solar on the roof, so power is of no concern excepting for clouds and shade. Charging gets better the farther south you go in winter. If I fall short of charging after a couple days, no matter because I'll probably be relocating to the next location and the 30-amp dc to dc charger will recharge the battery system back to full in the time it takes me to drive to the next location. If I stay at a site with electricity, I have a 1000-watt 3' wide baseboard heater that works well down to about 25 degrees, then I need to supplement heating using the furnace. I think 5 degrees F is the coldest I've camped. Keep in mind I have measured a 30-degree difference between the floor and the countertop in the TC. In the real cold conditions, I have a small fan that blows cabin air down into the basement for the holding tanks. The tanks do sit on top of 1/2" Styrofoam, so they have a little thermal protection. Get some really thick slippers and socks for hanging in the TC because your feet will get cold in those conditions. OK, those are my tricks. That's how I stay warm in the winter.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 09/16/22 07:00pm Truck Campers
RE: got a new camper

the fridge issue was a bad thermister. Holding at 35 with the new one in place. Lost water pressure. Another easy fix. Camper had been sitting for a while and they did not drain the fresh tank, Algae totally pugged the pre water pump strainer. cleaned that out Clorox bombed the water system, multiple times with a bunch of fill, add clorox, drive to shake the water everywhere let sit for a day drain, repeat, then do multiple fills and drain plus flush the hose lines to clear the clorox and gunk out of the system. https://tinyurl.com/2s43wc6p width=600 https://tinyurl.com/4944pe37 width=600 Never seen algae in the freshwater system before. I do fill my fresh system with Seattle city water after each trip knowing it might be a while before we head out again. There is zero light getting to the tank and water system. I guess the chlorinated city water stores well and prevents growth
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 09/16/22 03:01pm Truck Campers
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