| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: Making my onboard generator quieter
So the Inverter model, despite running slower and having a completely different motor, has, under load, that same chugging or Poot-poot sound that my non inverter model has, and that resonator seems to have about the same effect on your inverter model as on my older non-inverter model.
I took my pipe to a one man muffler shop and he welded up some cracks in the 90 degree bend of the pipe caused by a broken hangar in the past, and he cut out a section and welded in the resonator.
I had bought the resonator to install on my 3600LP generator in a motorhome I had, but everyone who had tried it said it simply didn't have any noticeable change in sound so I never bothered to install it. After I got my trailer and realized the sound the smaller 2500LP made I tried it and that is what you see in my short video. That led me to install it and in that process I discovered cracks in the pipe at the 90 coming out of the motor from a broken hangar that had been repaired using inner tube or similar rubber that left a lot to be desired. As I also had the proper Cummins hanger, new, I bought with the resonator, I changed it out and fixed everything.
Charles
|
CharlesinGA
|
05/03/22 08:34pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
|
|
RE: OEM vs Aftermarket - Chinese JUNK Comparison
Performance-wise, the LED retrofit headlight bulbs are all over the place.
Some are surprisingly good, and some are utter ****.
Me and quite a few other 2nd-generation Frontier owners have had excellent luck with the Katana 9007 LED bulbs.
Their LED emitters closely mimic the shape and position of the filaments in the incandescent bulb they replace, which makes a HUGE difference in avoiding a beam pattern that sprays light everywhere.
The earlier version that is equipped with a cooling fan works better than the more recent fanless version. (Most fanless designs reduce the LED brightness after a few minutes of operation, in order to avoid burning them up).
Mine have seen operation almost every night over the past 2 years, with one failure.
MUCH brighter than the original incandescents (without blinding oncoming drivers), and well worth the 55 bucks, IMO.
Curiously my 2003 Dodge RAM 2500 uses the 9007 bulb also. It had aftermarket fixtures in it when I bought it, and the light was scattered everywhere, so I ditched those and went back to OEM Damiler Chrysler light fixtures, which took some shopping in 2018 to find NEW originals. I MUCH prefer OEM lights.
The 2003-2005 RAM trucks have poor light distribution even with OEM lights, so I will look into these Katana lights. I DO NOT want BLUE lights, and at 6500K they would be but the information on Amazon says each KATANA bulb can light up to 6000 lumens,6500k extremely white light,5 times brighter than halogen.
So I'm gonna hold you responsible if I don't like them **WINK, WINK** NOT.
I don't want to be that SOB who is blinding other drivers.
Charles
|
CharlesinGA
|
05/03/22 07:44pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: MaxxFan 7500K
MaxxAir fans have proven sensitive to voltage. If you have solar, or lithium batteries, the voltage will go well above 13.5v and if high enough the circuit boards will cook. The newest generation of the MaxxAir fans has a modified circuit board that allows higher (slightly) voltages.
The folks on the Escape trailer forum have been down this rabbit hole repeatedly and finally determined that using a small buck boost transformer (about the size of a cigarette pack) is probably the best way of assuring proper voltage to the fan. Here are a FEW of the threads on this subject.
Charles
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f38/boards-frying-from-14-volt-solar-charging-22344.html
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f9/maxxfan-known-problem-21959.html
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f9/maxxfan-issues-20950.html
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8/maxxfan-7000k-voltage-regulator-14667.html
|
CharlesinGA
|
05/03/22 07:20pm |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Making my onboard generator quieter
I installed the same resonator on the earlier non-inverter model of the Onan 2500LP (runs at a constant 3600 rpm). The exhaust on mine has a "poot-poot" sound that was annoying, and after installing the resonator, the volume of the sound was not appreciably reduced, but the TONE was changed, and the "poot-poot" sound was pretty much gone.
Installing it on the new inverter model Onan 2500i probably has less effect as the engine generally runs slower (2445-2900 rpm) and never gets close to the 3600 that a non-inverter generator runs at.
Here is a video that I did showing the difference on my trailer. YT messed me up by converting it to a "short" so all of the description of what it is and why is not visible to the viewer unless they click the three vertical dots in the upper RH corner and select "description". I will have to eventually edit the video to longer than a minute by adding some BS at the beginning and end but for now you are stuck with looking at a 40 second short.
https://youtube.com/shorts/NQEtWhQr8ps?feature=share
I have since cut out a section of the pipe under the trailer and welded the resonator in place.
Charles
|
CharlesinGA
|
04/27/22 11:09pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
|
|
RE: No gas to cook top
I wished this entire thread could be ported over to the Escape forum on RVLife. However RVLife administration gets triggered when something comes from elsewhere. If you have not OP needs to start a thread over there and write up what you and JBarca (John) have to say and discovered.
escapeforum.org
Another consideration is that many of the Escape owners install Dickinson stove tops, and ovens in some situations, and really like them. Again, go to the forum and check it out.
Charles
|
CharlesinGA
|
04/20/22 02:58pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Importing an RV from Europe to the US
I've managed to get into contact with a lower level official at Ford who says that the Ford Transit chassis and motors are likely built in the US to US standards. I've just received a VIN# from a dealer near Paris & so will check this with Ford to confirm manufacture.
Good to hear that the electric conversion will likely not be a problem, but at this point I'm not going to worry about either electric or plumbing issues until I can confirm that the chassis and motor are likely to meet the US import standards.
I like the suggestion to purchase the Ford BEFORE it is transported (not exported permanently) to France as this may help with importation of the modified US vehicle back into the US.
Please keep the suggestions and comments coming in and I'll update as progress is being made.
Aloha!
Bob
The Transits for the North American market (and South America)are built in the Kansas City assembly plant. Transits for Europe, Africa, and Asia are built by Ford Otosan in Kocaeli Province, Turkey. Those are the only two Transit plants worldwide, according to Wikipedia.
Charles
|
CharlesinGA
|
04/20/22 02:18pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Parking permits in the GSMNP
Clingman's dome is insane and the shuttle bus, one from the east and one from the west would be a much better situation. The east side of the park is much overlooked (a good thing for those who visit it) and there is much to see and do both inside and outside the park.
Charles
|
CharlesinGA
|
04/12/22 08:34pm |
RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
|
|
RE: mb diesel oil mistake
The best place to get an accurate answer to this question is on the Sprinter Source Forum. Go to the T1N section and ask.
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php
You need to become familiar with the Mercedes specification and approval system.. In correct oils can cause clogging of the EGR valve and other issues.
Charles
|
CharlesinGA
|
04/12/22 07:44pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Major Problems with Bed of Truck - how to fix?
.
Obviously, a new bed will not work because it will just crush the same way this one did.
”
From what your pictures show to me (in my opinion) your current box is not worth repairing.
Here's my .02c
Option (1) Replace box with a flat bed with side tool boxes.
Option (2) Find a southern take off box in good shape and reinforce where you know reinforcement is needed before installing.
Good luck
C.B.
Totally agree with this. You have to start somewhere, and that is with a new bed that has no rust or damage. I would NEVER consider repairing the bed you have, its scrap metal. Then you can examine where yours is taking the loads and reinforce those areas. Given it appears to be a LOT of weight, I second the flat bed conversion, but do it in ALUMINUM.
Charles
|
CharlesinGA
|
03/31/22 07:55pm |
Truck Campers
|
|
RE: No gas to cook top
I frequent the Escape Forums and actually do not recall a Dometic stove top mentioned. The Suburban gets lots of mention however.
LOTS of gas devices use a second regulator. My propane powered Onan generator has a very large diaphragm regulator in the housing, but gets its gas from the regulator at the cylinders. Stoves do too.
I carry a portable butane single burner and a electric hot plate with me to cover all possibilities.
I think your question is worthy of some discussion on the Escape forum as you have a lot of people with the same equipment on there.
Charles
|
CharlesinGA
|
03/31/22 07:02pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: owners manual
You may already have a list of the exact appliances and model numbers. First place to start looking is the inside of the wardrobe cabinet door. I think RVIA required manufacturers to put a document in there with the make, model, serial, appliance list, tire size, etc.
Charles
|
CharlesinGA
|
02/26/22 09:13pm |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Axle Bearing Service - Dos and Dont's???
Race drivers are cheap and readily available. I used a punch and care for many years, till I bought a race driver set. Night and day difference. Can drive the race in a couple of good hits and move on to the next one, and no worries about anything slipping and damaging the race or your fingers.
I gave up doing things the hard way.
Since most auto parts stores have them in the loan pool, why fight it?
For seals I use a wood block and hammer to get it started and then off to the arbor press with a socket that sits just right on the seal.
The only "special" tool I grab is a punch, long enough to reach thru hub, leave room to hold. Needs a flat point, to catch the edge of race. And works better if it is something hard, tool steel, so it will transfer the impact to race, not distort or bounce around. Mine is long enough that I can catch the seal thru bearing, and pop it out.
Though I do not own any, Snap On actually makes punches specifically for bearing race removal that are oval tipped. Not cheap but if you do a lot of bearing races, its probably worth having. I miss the older auto hubs with notches cast into them behind the races to give you full access to the back side of the race,
Oval Bearing Race Punches
Charles
|
CharlesinGA
|
02/26/22 08:55pm |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Axle Bearing Service - Dos and Dont's???
Here is a table of bearing part numbers. It is an image and you may need to click to expand it or open it in another tab. I created the table in MS Word and ended up converting to a JPG image to make it easy to upload to various discussion forums. This site in particular resizes the image so it is difficult to read. I used the current Dexter catalogs for the bearing and seal part numbers.
https://i.imgur.com/1LJbHTIl.jpg
There are two columns that have SET numbers. Generally when you buy bearings from industrial bearing and drive businesses they get the races and bearings as separate items. Timken does package them in sets of bearing and race in one package, and that is what the SET numbers are.
You almost certainly have 3500 lb axles and no matter if Lippert or Dexter the bearings and seals will be the same. If the table turns out to be difficult to read the numbers you will need are.........
The inner bearing (larger one) is L68149 and its race is L68111 (which make up SET17). The outer bearing is L44649 and its race is L44610 (which make up SET4). The seal is National 473336.
Timken bearings are found on Amazon, however, Amazon has a lot of problems with bogus and fake parts and Timken bearings are commonly faked. Stick to known suppliers. To save money, I recommend purchasing the sets from Summit Racing....
https://www.summitracing.com/
Generally shipping is free on orders over $99 with Summit so if you order an entire set of bearings, and National brand seals, throw in a tube of grease, you are over $100. If you buy from the Industrial suppliers, you will pay over $160 for the same bearings. However if you only want one or two, that is the way to go. You will most certainly have China made bearings and I highly recommend replacing the entire set of bearings and races with Timken. Just the Summit site for SET4 and then for SET17 and you will get them.
You will need a set of bearing race drivers to install the races and you can purchase the drivers from various tool businesses or borrow them from most auto parts stores with a deposit. Make sure the set is complete. You will need a large wooden block and also a 2 lb or so ball pein hammer, and a 10 inch or so drift to punch out the old races.
https://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/9fc4a8332f9638515cd199dd0f9238da/6/3/63261_W3.jpg width=640
For packing the bearings there is nothing easier than a good bearing packer...........
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-34550-Handy-Packer-Bearing/dp/B0002NYDYO
https://www.lislecorp.com/media/products/34550in_42EC61DD49A1A.jpg?dimensions=500x333
Another bearing packer I can recommend is this Gearwrench branded one (I own the same packer Snap On branded, in addition to owning a Lisle packer)
GEARWRENCH Hand Bearing Packer - 2775D
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81Rf+mBIC4L._AC_SL0600_.jpg
For grease I prefer a synthetic grease with Moly in it, such as Valvoline Moly Fortified Full Synthetic grease (2.5% moly).
Don't bet on all Timken bearings being made in the USA !
Indeed they are not, however in my experience purchasing a couple of complete bearing and race sets thru industrial suppliers, and another couple of sets thru Summit Racing, (all 3500 lb axle sizes) they were all USA made. National seals are a division of Timken and the seals have varied, some made in Mexico and some made in Taiwan. In any case you are assured of a quality standard well above anything else. Toyo Koyo is another quality manufacturer I can recommend.
Charles
|
CharlesinGA
|
02/25/22 11:25am |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Advice on unique oppotunity
I am a member of the Bigfoot Owners Club Intl. and on the discussion forum there are several owners of the 4000 series. Most speak well of them, but they are not without their issues.
If the one you are planning on getting has been well cared for and kept under cover or shelter, it will be a real nice rig.
I would think you could sell your 2017 model and if a clean rig, make almost what you paid for it. Just be a wary seller and double check everything. When I sold my MH in 2019 I went behind the buyer and checked with the credit union they were borrowing part of the money with, to confirm it was a legit deal. I contacted them thru the email address I got off their web site and not via the one the CU employee handling it was using. I gave all pertinent info and simply asked for a yea or nay that the loan was actually being handled and was legit. They said yes. The buyer said he was going to give me a Wells Fargo cashiers check for a part of the price, so when they arrived (flew in on airline) i picked them up in the motorhome and we went to Wells Fargo. Oddly WF could not easily confirm the checks, they needed to talk to the issuing location, which would not open for 3 hrs. However the manager looked at the buyers accounts and saw that that exact amount had been moved out of the account. I also had done a bunch of research on the buyer, where they lived, I checked the property tax records for the address to confirm the ownership, and several other things.
There are some pretty good scams going right now. The very best thing you could do would be to walk into the sellers bank or credit union and be handed a check by the teller for the proper amount.
Charles
|
CharlesinGA
|
02/21/22 08:30pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: atwood GHC6A-10E water heater
Weld the tank. that heater is no longer made in that size and shape. The Texas deep freeze of a year ago went thru all of the stocks of the old Atwood design.
Suburban does make a Atwood compatible replacement but its a Suburban with its steel tank and I would not want one.
The heater disassembles rather easily and you only need a couple of sleeves that fit the outside of the flame tubes, They press in and easily done with a piece of large PVC pipe as a driver.
The H in the model number GHC6A-10E is what tells you it is a heat exchanger model.
Charles
|
CharlesinGA
|
02/05/22 01:07pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Wifi connection for TV
Use a portable travel router for the cell phone's hotspot to talk to and then let the router distribute to the TV, laptop, tablet, etc. This way the phone provider only sees one item connected to the hotspot, as many services purposely degrade if they see more than one device on the hotspot.
I use Visible for cell phone service, it is unlimited everything but does throttle the hotspot if more than one device directly connected hence the need for a router.
If you are a serious traveler that needs to work from the road, this video will help you out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vu63IduXi5M
Charles
|
CharlesinGA
|
02/05/22 12:59pm |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Coupler repair/replacement
That is what I am going to get. I have a flatbed trailer that has this exact coupler. I love it.
Go and read thru this thread Escape trailer hitch conversion
As it has some pics in it. Lots of discussion on the Bulldog vs the RAM hitch (which Etrailer sells as their brand also) and the differences in the attachment of the tongue jack, etc.
Its a lot of jibber-jabber till post #15 and then it gets a little more informative, but read it all.
Charles
|
CharlesinGA
|
02/05/22 12:52pm |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Sprinter alignment
The only adjustments on a Sprinter is toe in/out. Only other way to adjust is camber with shims but you should never encounter a need to do this.
Charles
|
CharlesinGA
|
01/08/22 08:36pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: County Park or other with camping FL GA AL
Dauphin Island Alabama. City owned campground, many sites with FHU and 50 amp. Many things to see and do, close by. Spent 4 nights down there in early November.
https://www.dauphinisland.org/things-to-do
https://www.dauphinisland.org/camping
Operation of the campground is being shifted jan 1st from the Park and Beach Board to the Town Board. Campground employees were elated and looking forward to improvements and much needed repairs. Decent campground however, I would not hesitate to stay there again.
Charles
|
CharlesinGA
|
12/28/21 01:32pm |
RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
|
|
RE: Fridge Leak
You say the water is not coming from the drip tube. The material Dometic used for the drain tube becomes very hard and brittle, especially since it is intertwined in the coils on the back of the fridge. They have switched to a black tube material that I think is somewhat better.
For that matter, I went with a friend to look at and purchase a 2017 model travel trailer. He had just sold a too small for them trailer and this was pretty much the right size. In looking over the trailer we found the Dometic drain tube was still coiled up and shoved up in between the coils on the back side, the way it is shipped from Dometic. The factory had never bothered to pull the tubing out and unravel it and route it thru the louvers in the outside vent.
A third possibility is the water is coming from outside via the sidewall vent. It is a poor design and any rainwater running down the side makes its way thru the gap at the bottom where the removable insert and the frame meet, there is no dam or ledge to stop the water from intruding inside.
Charles
|
CharlesinGA
|
12/11/21 03:22pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
