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Forum
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RE: Smartplug Converstion
I wish Hubbell would make a 30-TT replacement plug.
I bought several different replacement 30TT plugs for shore cords to find the best one. The one I prefer is the Progressive Industries TT30P. It is larger than most and doesn't have a pull handle, but this allows the door to close on top of it at the pedestal. It is easy to install on the cord and has four screws to hold the housing together, most use two or three. The cord grip area inside is large so you won't have the cord jacket pulling out of the body of the plug.
https://www.progressiveindustries.net/tt-30p
Charles
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CharlesinGA
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01/24/21 10:03am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Smartplug Converstion
Twist-Lock® (a trademark of the Hubbell Corp) is a decent connector but is not the easiest to connect and doesn't really make good contact. Smartplug makes a thing of showing burned up plugs and connectors, which is a real issue, but probably not as much as they make it out to be. I like the idea of the Smartplug but wished it was available in a 90° design so the cord didn't stick out so from the RV. I have a 90° turn lock connector on my shore cord, and should it ever give any problems I might convert to the SmartPlug, as the screw mounting pattern is the same as the Marinco and other similar connectors.
Randy at Best Converter tried to get me to convert, however I had 1) already bought and installed the Marinco turn lock inlet and wired it in place of the hardwired shore cord, and I had already purchased an extra long (36ft) shore cord with a 90° turn lock connector with LED indicator on it.
Biggest thing I do not like about the turn lock connectors are the super fine thread collars that you have to fiddle with to get the threads to start without cross threading. The thing I like the most about the Smartplug is the ease of simply pushing the plug in place till the latches click, and the amount of contact surface area they have. Thing I do not like is the cost of the product, which is excessive.
I also like the Marinco type connectors since they are IMO more weatherproof and secure than a straight plug type connector.
Larry
The Smartplug has a well designed water seal that compresses as you plug the connector in.
My trailer came with a twist lock detachable cord. I had failures with the blades in the cord end, the wires loosened in the inlet and the cheesy plastic ring was troublesome. I installed a locking hatch and modified it to exclude pests, then hard-wired a cord. You can argue about the merits of various contacts all you want, but I prefer a continuous wire where it passes thru combustible materials. Pulling out only what I need, easily wiping the cord clean and no need to carry and find a storage place are additional benefits.
In my motorhome, the hard wired cord worked well as the compartment the cord stowed in was large enough to wipe it off and feed in in a loop till it was all coiled up, and was easily connected to the generator outlet. On my current trailer the access door to the cord storage was rather small and the cord was a real bear to attempt to store in the compartment. I removed the door and frame, fabricated a heavy aluminum plate to fit over the opening with a Marinco turn lock connector mounted in it, and removed the storage compartment inside. Only problem is that my trailer has a built in generator and the original design was to plug the shore cord into the generator outlet INSIDE the cord storage compartment, yea, right, good luck with that!. I installed a transfer switch and connected it all together with blue smurf flex conduit and stranded THHN 10 gauge wiring.
********
Perhaps many of the naysayers should first research the product before commenting or condemning it. I saw more than one comment that it didn't appear to be tested or approved, however in the website it is noted that it is tested and approved by Intertek/ETL and this is as valid a testing service as UL (and a lot cheaper I understand).
https://smartplug.com/rv/
Charles
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CharlesinGA
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01/23/21 09:12pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: How did I do this? - Bent Ball Mount
There are some things I simply would not buy, or depend on, from Harbor Freight................
Charles
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CharlesinGA
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01/17/21 10:36pm |
Towing
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RE: Tire went flat in the driveay. Damage?
For the naysayers who run in circles and wave their hands in the air saying the tire is ruined, etc, etc, the OP stated it was a Utility trailer, which could be ANYTHING from a Harbor Freight 4x8 kit trailer on up. My utility is a kinda typically sized 5x10, angle iron frame with wood floor. Oddly it has 15 inch wheels on it and so I have used an old (unused) spare from the travel trailer, and one tire from off the axle (when I replaced them) and installed both on the utility trailer in place of the 20 year old tires on it. It never goes far or fast and so an older tire is of no consequence on it.
A lightweight empty trailer will not destroy a tire if the tire goes flat. Now if it was towed that way, thats another story, but sitting, no problems that I see.
Charles
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CharlesinGA
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01/17/21 10:30pm |
Towing
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RE: Had a mounting bolt failure on my Equal-i-zer hitch
If you tighten the bolts, but not enough to bend the plates, then they will move around. To get them to stay put, the plates get bent. Move up to grade 8 bolts and keep and eye on them for rust.
That is the older design Equalizer frame bracket, however the new one attaches to the trailer tongue the same way, just the L bracket attachment is different.
After having had an Equalizer hitch, I don't like them. New(er) trailer has a Blue Ox Sway Pro hitch and I like it alot.
Charles
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CharlesinGA
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01/17/21 10:18pm |
Towing
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RE: Honda 2000i tips and tricks for changing oil.
For the money this is a bargain, machined, anodized aluminum, drain tube and magnetic dipstick.
https://www.amazon.com/MOEBULB-Magnetic-Dipstick-Compatible-Generator/dp/B08FJ7QJP2/ref=psdc_15708811_t3_B087CVQNC6
Charles
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CharlesinGA
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01/17/21 09:59pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: HITCH HEIGHTH ?
Hook it up and check it. You have a WDH and that doesn't have it's own receiver?
OP has a receiver on the vehicle, he is asking about the shank of the hitch. Most WD hitches have a head that bolts to the vertical holes of the shank with two 3/4 bolts, which allow you to adjust the height of the head. There is no way to know until the OP hangs the trailer on the ball and sees what happens. If necessary the head can be moved up or down the shank, or the shank can be rotated so the offset of the vertical part is reversed. New shanks can be purchased with more drop or rise, but probably not necessary.
Charles
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CharlesinGA
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01/17/21 09:41pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Making Oil
Mercedes does not like Bio diesel because it contaminates the oil and causes cylinder wash down. They specifically tell you to keep a close eye on the oil level if you constantly run Bio and if it rises, change the oil.
Charles
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CharlesinGA
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01/17/21 09:35pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Outside Speakers
I dont like outside speakers for the potential of a water leak. The only saving grace is the fact they are usually mounted under the awning and so they are reasonably protected. You would think that nowdays, manufacturers would simply expect you to use a bluetooth speaker of your choice. Me, I don't listen to anything. If it wasn't a hassle, I'd remove the radio and install a drawer in its place.
Charles
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CharlesinGA
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01/17/21 09:33pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Battery origin
Best automotive battery I have encountered so far. In Mar of 2018 I bought a RAM 2500 truck built on Jan 3, 2003. When I bought it, it still had the original Damiler-Chrysler labeled batteries in it (they appeared to be the "green eye" Delco/Delphi maintenance free batteries, with the green eye covered by the label.) I got good maintenance records on the truck and given the batteries labeling and the records, I had no reason to think these were not the original 15 year batteries. That Cummins did crank with some hesitation, and that was the first money I spent was for two new Bosch AGM batteries for the truck.
I have used the Delco maintenance free batteries for years, and got good service, typically 8 or 9 years. They are too expensive now and don't have the reliability they used to.
I have a Advance Auto Platinum AGM group 49 battery in my shop that came out of my WBO MH in 2017, It is a 2011 date code battery and I changed it prior to a long trip. It still works and I recently used it to start a borrowed Ford 4000 tractor, and it worked just fine. Batteries hold up better than they used to.
Charles
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CharlesinGA
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01/17/21 09:27pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Propane regulator?
I have come to despise the teflon thread tape, I use dope or other thread sealants. I usually use this on pipe threads for gas, oil and such.
https://markal.com/products/pipetite-stik
It is a crayon like stick and I have to soften it with heat from a lighter, heat gun or similar and then smear it on the threads.
Charles
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CharlesinGA
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01/17/21 09:18pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Is this doable or am I overlooking something??
Be aware that some campgrounds, especially private ones, will not allow you to use more than one receptacle on the post at one time. Read their rules carefully. Sometimes it has to do with electric consumption and cost, other times it has to do with overloading the system. Some won't care, some will.
Charles
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CharlesinGA
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01/17/21 09:06pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: 60a DC-to-DC Charger Powered by 220a Alternator
Five pages of posts and no one has mentioned this yet. You also could/should consider a larger alternator. Mechman makes SIX phase alternators (normal is three phase) and the six phase has twelve diodes. They have units up to about 370 amps (which would require an increase in the size of the alternator output to vehicle battery cable)
My RAM 2500 has a lowly 160 amp alternator and I am considering installing larger cables, Anderson connector, and DC-DC charger and more/larger batteries, next year. Part of the upgrade will be a Mechman Alternator.
https://www.mechman.com/
The DC=DC chargers, powered by 4 or 6 gauge cables from the vehicles batteries and connected to the trailer by Anderson connectors is becoming common and was pioneered by the Australians for their touring and offroad vehicles. It is a system that works well and eliminates the problems of the usually small power wire to the 7 pin (many vehicles cannot squeeze 10 good amps thru). I think the truck manufacturers installed the power to the 7 pin to charge the small SLA batteries used as emergency braking power on flat bed and cargo trailers and didn't expect to be charging huge banks of batteries in RV's
Charles
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CharlesinGA
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01/16/21 11:05pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: New generator for new rv. Recommendations
In my opinion, the best buy for the buck Clicky
YOMV
Great way to Pi$$ off anyone within a quarter mile of you, and you will grow tired of hearing it too. No open frame generators for RV'ers, be a good neighbor, get an inverter unit.
Charles
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CharlesinGA
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01/12/21 11:42pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Travel trailer necessities
Every imaginable electric dogbone you could use.
I carry a spare plug for the shore cord (parks with bad plugs can arc and burn your plug) and I carry a spare 30 amp receptacle also. Pedestal may be bad, and they are cheap, campground can install it if you got it, they will otherwise not want to help. (and know how it is supposed to be wired too!)
https://www.leviton.com/en/docs/Document-33843-Wiring_Diagram.jpg
However realize that it needs to be installed with the ground pin up.
Charles
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CharlesinGA
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01/12/21 11:32pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Filling large propane tank on the road
Propane and fireplace stores that have a large tank on the side of the building, hardware stores, propane gas places, etc. Lots of places. First time I got mine filled, I was passing by a real nice looking fireplace and outdoor patio accessory place north of Albany GA. I turned around and went back and spied a large tank next to the building, so i went in and asked and the owner said he too owned a motorhome and yes, just pull it up. I told him the dealer filled it when I bought the mH and had no idea what I had used. Seem to recall I took about 5 gals was all. Ace Hardware Apalachicola FL has a tank next to the building, I spied while eating next door. I walked over and asked, they said they filled RV's all the time, so you just gotta keep your eyes peeled for the large tank.
Charles
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CharlesinGA
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01/12/21 11:27pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Best tire inflator for dually tires
For my Sprinter chassis View, I used a Milton 12 inch with a straight on the end and a angled back connector, the one that someone was complaining about above, never had a moments problem with it. I did replace the metal ends that hold the seals in, they have gripping grooves on them that would hang on the stems and you would loose air trying to get them to disengage so I replaced them with nuts that are smooth inside. I installed Alligator V2B inflate thru caps (you do not put a cap on them, they are the cap, those are not threads, they are gripping grooves for the filler tool.
https://www.amazon.com/Alligator-V2B-Inflate-Through-Valve/dp/B014VCY3S2
Here is the Milton filler I used.
https://www.amazon.com/Milton-S-693-12-Extended-Reach-Chuck/dp/B004QI1WEA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=393TANUX6MXRD&dchild=1&keywords=milton+dual+head+air+chuck&qid=1610518004&s=automotive&sprefix=milton+%2Cautomotive%2C187&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyR1M1TDI0UUlKNzYzJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzM0NDEyN0VRSjI3TkNKNDFOJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0MzY4MDcxWVRDVkRTWDdQTFdSJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
and here is the Milton replacement nuts for the chuck with smooth insides instead of grooved.
https://www.miltonindustries.com/dual-head-chuck-nut
Added my own air hose nipple and used my shop hoses. For a gauge I used a long stem dual head like the Milton inflator chuck.
https://www.amazon.com/TireTek-Truck-Pro-Pressure-Gauge-Heavy/dp/B00XCANO4O/ref=sr_1_33_sspa?crid=393TANUX6MXRD&dchild=1&keywords=milton+dual+head+air+chuck&qid=1610518191&s=automotive&sprefix=milton+%2Cautomotive%2C187&sr=1-33-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTVZJSlVJSFU0S0FVJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjM4MDE3M0xGSUdHWEJFSU9MQyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTQzNjIwMThZSkZKWUdEWUk0MyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2J0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Not what I used but similar. I removed the wheel simulators, they are horrible. Its a truck, simple hub caps will do on the front. Mercedes and GM make hubcaps for their dual style wheels on the front. Not sure about Fords.
Here is the correct replacement seal for the dual head Milton chucks.
https://www.miltonindustries.com/dual-straight-head-chuck-washer
Charles
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CharlesinGA
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01/12/21 11:14pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Modify OR Access Easily Over cab Bed for the Older Camper
I had a Winnebago View with a cab over bed and a jackknife couch. I tried the cab over bed twice and ended up sleeping on the jackknife couch. Had I kept the MH I was going to make a better ladder, possibly using a library ladder kit to build something solid and sturdy with wide steps (I say library ladder because they are nice looking and well made, not referring to the part that rolls on a track, just the wooden ladder itself.)
Charles
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CharlesinGA
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01/12/21 10:56pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Redarc DC-DC Battery Charger
Glad to see you return for an update. I started reading this thread and realized it was OLD but kept reading, somewhere in there, someone asked about The 25 amp vs the 40 amp and I was thinking, "thats part of why he upsized the wiring, so he could upgrade if needed" and sure enough that is what you did.
One other thought is that it might be of benefit to remote mount the fuse for the 12v element that burned the connections, some sort of inline fuse holder, with large enough wires, or a standalone fuse holder wired to the circuit board with heavy wire.
I have a Bigfoot trailer and intend to upgrade the battery system on it to a couple of large AGM's and when I do, I will install a Redarc unit and the cable from the front of the truck to the rear, Circuit breaker up front, Anderson connector, all of that. I do not have a three way fridge, but it seems that it would be a good thing to have, since you are able to make it operate properly on 12v. Somewhere I read of someone having problems with a propane fridge not holding a fire on the road and they install a piece of A/C fiberglass filter on the inside of the side vent to dampen the wind stirring around in the compartment and the unit operated fine after that.
I had been looking at the Redarc units in part due to their environmental sealing that would allow me to mount the unit on the tongue of the trailer under the fiberglass cover.
Thanks for the info.
Charles
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CharlesinGA
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01/07/21 11:38pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: [SOLVED] Lubricate Dometic element before replacement?
Don't know about others, but I appreciate it when the OP reports back with the resolution to the problem. It will help someone in the future.
Charles
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CharlesinGA
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01/04/21 12:02am |
Tech Issues
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