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 > Your search for posts made by 'Chum lee' found 35 matches.

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RE: how long can one store a gas engined motorhome?

If you are generator equipped, I would disconnect the fuel supply to the generator (and cap it off) and run the generator until it stops. In lieu of that, Onan recommends that you heat cycle the generator on a monthly basis. (run it for +-30 minutes under moderate load) Chum lee
Chum lee 05/20/22 08:49am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Residential refrigerator door shelf failures

We have a 3 year old Whirlpool 10 cu ft fridge that keeps having the tabs which are molded into the door to hold the door shelf fail as we drive down the road. It is a very poor design to put that type of unreinforced tab on a door, but it probably works on a fixed unit in an apartment, but not in a rolling earthquake like an RV. Anyone else had this type of a problem and if so, what did you do to resolve it? IMO, the "key" word here is in the title of your post. "residential" You could try putting only light items in the door, or, as others have suggested, reinforce the mounting areas, or figure out a way to shock mount the refrigerator. The bottom line is that the refrigerator (materials) was not made for the use it is getting. You can't blame Whirlpool for that. Chum lee
Chum lee 05/14/22 06:24am Tech Issues
RE: It's getting warm in Arizona...

Just returned from a 4 day trip to Dead Horse Ranch State Park in Cottonwood {about 25 miles southwest of Sedona}. The weather was nice with temps in the mid to upper 80's but by the middle of May triple digits will be the rule vs the exception for the rest of the summer. Once you get up to 7 to 9,000' heat is no longer an issue but again most of the CG's are booking out quickly. Most {perhaps all} of the state is now under a Stage 1 fire restriction, no open fires, charcoal etc but propane stove and fire pits are permitted. :B Yep! IMO, the area is stunningly gorgeous, but, as you say, if you are in an RV, you need to be "OUT OF THERE" by the middle of May. (too hot) We stayed at Dead Horse Campground several times through the mid/late spring and found the facilities/area/people to be wonderful. I could not recommend them more highly. It's close to stores, facilities, fuel, fishing, recreation, etc., but, not too close. It doesn't have the "little bit stuffy" attitude towards RV's as Sedona. Chum lee
Chum lee 05/07/22 08:46pm General RVing Issues
RE: 1989 Ford 460 E 350 not running, need help

It sounds like a plugged cat to me. With a willing helper start the truck and in neutral rev the engine a few times. Have the helper stand in the back stick their open palm by the exhaust and feel the strength of the exhaust coming out while you rev it. Then go for a drive and when it slows down pull into a parking lot and have them feel the exhaust again. When it loses power will it still rev in neutral? Does power level temporarily go back to normal after it gets towed home? Pull the cat and see if it's plugged or rattles. If it's welded on then maybe talk to a local muffler shop guy have them cut the cat out and see if it's plugged. If not plugged they can weld it right back in. I agree with the above. Chum lee
Chum lee 05/02/22 11:49am Class C Motorhomes
RE: OEM vs Aftermarket - Chinese JUNK Comparison

Last year January I posted a headlight thread regarding the crummy headlights my truck came with. I was looking for suggestions, solutions etc. There was a lot of great input and ideas, and I finally got it taken care of. I did a ton of research and it turns out that virtually every aftermarket LED headlight system is made in China. My truck was hit hard in the front by a drunk driver in Dec 2012. 20K damage and it was very close to being written off. I had to agree to some non OEM parts to save it. One of them was a headlight. This headlight was absolute junk, and got worse from there. See in the photo the side by side comparison of the original drivers side from 2006 and the Chinese junk from 2013: Glad to see you found DSLighting. IMO, he's a great knowledgeable guy who actually CARES about you/your vehicle instead of some body who is just trying to make (or save themselves in the case of an insurance company) a quick buck. Chum lee Based on my experience with the aftermarket headlight, and learning that most all of the LED conversions are made in China, I opted to follow the advice given to me by the owner of Daniel Stern Lighting, a well known expert in automotive lighting. He helped me big time. I bought some used OEM GM Denali projection headlights and upgraded the bulbs to those recommended to me by the above named expert. More lumens per bulb, but the same power draw. These lights are a straight swap, no mods needed. I'm looking forward to some night time highway driving where I can actually see where I'm going. I just finished installing them a couple hours ago. Back to the title of this thread: I am astounded that the powers that be actually allow and even recommend this cheap aftermarket garbage to be used in vehicle repairs. Insurance companies dictate that all aftermarket be used to save money on repairs. These safety items are very substandard and actually dangerous to safe operation of our vehicles. The big 3 have very strict standards of quality, all stamped and approved for road use in North America. How is it that the regulatory people actually allow this junk to be imported and installed on a vehicle? Sure makes me wonder.... We are talking a genuine safety hazard here. See the OP of my previous thread linked above to see my complaint. I have been whining about my crummy headlights for years. I'm happy to have a great upgrade, and with OEM GM parts. No more of this cheap replacement junk for me.
Chum lee 05/02/22 11:28am Tech Issues
RE: Four (4) Row Radiators? Gimmick or Blessing?

The RV is new to me. Slowly bringing it back to life. No idea or evidence of overheating issues. Just trying to select the best options. I suppose another consideration is if you go from 2 rows to 4 could that keep the engine from reaching optimal operating temperature. The efficiency/capacity of the radiator and the radiator fan control the maximum coolant temperature. The operation of the thermostat (provided one is installed) controls the minimum/optimum coolant temperature. IE: engine too cold, . . . . no coolant flow. As engine warms up, . . . thermostat opens progressively until optimum set temperature is reached. Chum lee
Chum lee 04/28/22 10:31am Tech Issues
RE: Onan Microlite 4000 shaft locks up on occasion

My '87 BMW K75 motorcycle has an all aluminum sleeveless block. As far as I know there have been no issues with it. But then there was the Chevy Vega with a sleeveless aluminum block which had major problems mainly because it had a cast iron head. The different metals did not play well together. Yep. For years engineers have played with high silicone content aluminum alloys for use as cylinder wall materials. (other materials as well, hard chrome, nikasil (air cooled aircraft engines) boron nitride, teflon, etc. to name a few) As you mentioned, in your BMW, they can work fairly well. Unfortunately in the GM engines (Vega) they didn't work out at all but, IMO, not because of the aluminum cylinder walls. The cylinder blocks were easily damaged by overheating which caused the 2 center cylinders to warp away (inline 4 cylinder) from the head/head gasket causing a MASSIVE coolant leak. Game over. The silly design of the water pump (drive shaft too long) would cause most of them to fail at about 50,000 miles dumping the coolant out the driveshaft seal. One trip above the boiling point was all it took. I've used ridge reamers in American iron (50's, 60's, 70,s) all the time just to get the pistons out of worn cylinders without breaking the rings/ring lands. I've never seen cylinder ridges lock up an engine. I'm not saying it cant happen. Just that in my limited experience, I've never seen it. IMO, if your engine is locked up, (seized internally) . . . . you probably have much more serious issues. Chum lee
Chum lee 04/28/22 10:13am Tech Issues
RE: What is happening with our members?

. . . as I get older, I'm increasingly bored with RV'ers, who simply won't read their owners manuals. (many common questions are answered there) In their initial posts they provide so little information that it is literally impossible to help them in any meaningful helpful way without extensive further questioning. I'm not going to do your homework for you (for free) Yikes! A tad bit harsh. As someone who used to write manuals, I’ll be the first to admit sometimes they’re of little value and they do get lost. Yes, a little harsh it may be, BUT, the OP asked a question, and, I answered it to the best of my experience. If no one reads the (your) manuals, maybe you should take a look at yourself and your writing style. I read technical manuals all the time. I learn a great deal from them. Thanks for reminding me, there's always someone here who criticizes the truth, but they can't change it. Chum lee
Chum lee 04/10/22 12:56pm General RVing Issues
RE: What is happening with our members?

I am one of those "senior members" who rarely post here anymore. Why? Because as I get older, I'm increasingly bored with RV'ers, who simply won't read their owners manuals. (many common questions are answered there) In their initial posts they provide so little information that it is literally impossible to help them in any meaningful helpful way without extensive further questioning. I'm not going to do your homework for you (for free). (year, make, model, engine, transmission, current mileage, previous repair history, location on the planet, etc.) IMO, the site administrators should require this information at the initial post. It would make a more helpful website. Since they don't, . . . . maybe there's some ulterior motive? Chum lee (over and out)
Chum lee 04/10/22 12:26pm General RVing Issues
RE: Is it time to "chip" the V-10 in an E-450 class C?

Somehow the "experts" who swear by "chip tuning" never seem to connect future failed emission tests, broken exhaust manifold studs/bolts, cracked exhaust manifolds, premature catalytic converter failures, burned exhaust valves, cracked cylinder heads, excessive oil consumption (because of burned valve guide seals) with their economic "magic" of chip tuning. Aaaaawwww. Such an inconvenient truth. Yeah, . . . . . the engineers at Ford have no idea what they are doing. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/24/22 04:31am Tech Issues
RE: Trade in values

Are most RV dealers giving top dollar for trade ins right now? Short answer, NO. They NEVER do. Any RV dealer currently in business attempts to buy their new/used stock at the ABSOLUTE MINIMUM PRICE AND SELL/TRADE IT FOR THE MAXIMUM PRICE. This is how they pay their bills and stay in business. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/22/22 11:56pm General RVing Issues
RE: Is it time to "chip" the V-10 in an E-450 class C?

Hi, With fuel prices going through the roof, is it time to "chip" the V-10 engine with the idea of saving fuel? RV is from 2004 so a four speed. I do drive 49 mph (78 kph) and do get 8 to 10 MPG doing so. I can not afford a replacement engine, so I do not wish to take any risks. Today, here in California (Los Angeles area), I just bought Chevron (Pearson Fuels) E85 for $3.85 a gallon. (over 100 octane fuel) Regular 87 octane fuel was $5.50 at the same station. Do the math. See what works best for you. I've used up to a 30%/70% mix of E85/87 octane in my 1999 Class A F53 V10 with no drivability issues. There is a slight hit in the fuel mileage, but hey, . . . at 7 to 9 mpg already, that's not what's bunching my undies. Chip tuning for economy/power (while meeting emission standards), . . . . please, . . . tell me when to stop laughing. IMO, these "chip tuning experts" will never beat the Ford factory engineers with repeating reliable verifiable data. It's all marketing and advertising XXXXX. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/22/22 11:32pm Tech Issues
RE: Weigh Station ??

We were driving our 38 ft Class A MH West on I-20. As we entered MS a sign said "All Vehicles Over 5 Tons Must Enter". I didn't. Surely they meant DOT vehicles and trucks, right? Is a RV ever required at a Weigh Station? Not that i am aware of. Thanks..... IMO, this is a free learning opportunity for you. I haven't been through every weigh station throughout the USA, but, many of the ones I have been through visually post your axle weights as you drive over the scale. If not, you can park after the scale, then, go in and ask them. This is VALUABLE information. IMO, as the operator of your vehicle, you should ALWAYS know your current axle weights and compare those against what is stated on the placard in your MH. Not knowing is just plain irresponsible. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/16/22 07:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Not for us

I won’t sell it for a loss. Don’t think there is any reason to. It’s a 2022 with the 26,000 lb chassis and liquid springs and only has 5000 miles on it. If I can’t at least get what I owe on it I’ll continue to suck it up and live in it for awhile longer. We aren’t desperate and our site is paid until November with options for two more years at $4500 per year. Oh yes . . . IME, you will sell your RV at a substantial loss! The question you need to answer now is, . . . How much are you willing to lose? Why? Because the longer you keep your newer RV, the more ($$$$) you will lose especially if you aren't regularly taking full advantage of it. (depreciation is the reason to sell, . . . ASAP) IMO, you are living in a fantasy world. Chum lee
Chum lee 02/24/22 01:47am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Is it normal for an Alternator to generate 15 V+ output?

Your vehicle should be under factory warranty. The more you (or others) fool around with it, the more reason(s) the factory has to blame you for the issue and deny warranty repair(s). IMO, ASAP, take your RV to an authorized factory repair facility and explain the issue just as you have done here. Do not try to repair what you do not understand. If you are having this issue with a relatively new production vehicle, most likely, others are too. Use the collective knowledge base of the entire industry (rather than ignoring it) to help solve your problem. Chum lee
Chum lee 02/06/22 07:35pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Multiple Buyers. Who gets the RV?

I've done outside technical sales for 15+ years. First sales mistake. To agree with any potential buyer terms without the buyer physically present. Initially, the fact that they are present means EVERYTHING. The words to use in the ad or on the phone/online are, "The vehicle will be sold "as is, on a first come first served basis." IME, this wording often (not always) discourages Lookie Lous, scammers, trolls, etc., who just want to waste your time and complicate your life. Describe the vehicle, where it is, when it can be seen, how much you want for it, and your terms of payment. Then shut up. The ball is now in the buyers court. You haven't lied, you haven't promised potential buyers ANYTHING other than the current availability/condition of the vehicle. See what happens next. Chum lee
Chum lee 01/29/22 11:08am General RVing Issues
RE: Any Benefits to 30amp to 50amp

When we had he 30A TT I always pluggged into the 30A outlet. Over the many years of doing this there were a handful of times the breaker would pop. Then I bought a 50-30 adapter and always plugged into the 50A outlet. After doing that I never had a low voltage issue. I recommend always plugging into the 50 if it’s available. Agreed. I've found this to be the case several times too. As Doug says, your internal 30 amp main breaker should protect you. At aging parks, the pedestal breakers/plugs get a little worn/soft and IMO, that causes the 30 amp pedestal breaker to trip prematurely. Plugging into the 50 amp breaker with an adapter solves this problem. Some RV parks have undie bunching issues when you do this so it's advisable to check first. As always, MAKE SURE YOUR EQUIPMENT IS IN GOOD WORKING ORDER and not the cause of the problem. Chum lee
Chum lee 01/23/22 11:20am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Does Anyone See A Need For a Portable Generator?

Thanks, everyone, for your input. As I suspected, there's really no good reason to have an external generator. FWIW, I have 600W solar, 4 LiPo batteries (400Ah), and no, I don't really want to have to store gas for the genny onboard... yes, I agree it's a hassle, that was one reason I posed the question... and I, too, typically run my onboard generator when using a high Amp appliance. As for the consequences to the external genny, I don't know why it didn't function properly after charging my battery bank... it would start and run briefly, then shut down. Can't tell you if time has healed it, for it belonged to someone else, and he used his all the time for his setup (pull behind trailer, no onboard genny)... thankfully, he had two. I'll save the external genny for power outages at home... Well, you didn't say the above in your initial post. That said, there are other fellow RV'rs who AREN'T as well prepared as you. (full credit given to you) Having the remote jenny (just like a set of jumper cables) may help someone else out of a current jam they are in. RV life isn't just about you. IME, what goes around, . . . comes around. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/11/21 11:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: tankless waterheater question

So I'm new to tankless WH in an RV. When you winterize do you store them with antifreeze in the lines or can you effectively drain and blow them out? When I bought the unit during the PDI I was told to always put antifreeze in it because there is no way to get all the water out. I want to do what's going to protect my heater best but would like to avoid storing antifreeze it in. Hummmmmmm. No information about the specific unit you are talking about or where/how/what it's installed in. I would suggest you read the manual that came with the tankless WH along with the general information in the manual that came with your RV. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/09/21 11:28pm General RVing Issues
RE: Cold weather, generators, and campgrounds

My cartoon bubble: As for the "rules are rules" folks, rules are at the discretion of the enforcing authority to enforce as they see fit. I couldn't agree more. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/18/21 05:43pm General RVing Issues
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