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 > Your search for posts made by 'Chum lee' found 193 matches.

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RE: Jump starters

{SNIP} Woops Chum Lee. You're done in this topic now. Move along to the next one please.
Chum lee 10/20/20 04:15pm General RVing Issues
RE: Do propane fire pits put out any heat?

Wood (coals) radiate heat in all directions because they generate a lot more infra red energy which is what warms you up. A burning/glowing flame tends to heat the air around the fire pit which then goes straight up. Unless you stand directly OVER the fire, most of the heat is wasted. It looks good though. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/19/20 11:26am General RVing Issues
RE: onan 4k gen

I have a four winds with an onan 4 K gen. that I use maybe once a year. It is always a pain trying to un-gum it when I need to use it because the gas goes bad in-between uses. Should I drain the float bowl when not in use or do I need to run it every month or so? Unless you want to keep doing what you are doing, IMO, yes, you should run it every month or so, AND yes, you should drain the float bowl if you are not regularly using it. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/14/20 02:09pm Tech Issues
RE: Jump starters

Do those things actually work? My truck passed out in a customers driveway a couple years ago. I was due for a pair of batteries. Customer hooked up his little jump box thing and it did nothing, just made a little clicking noise and whined a bit.... I have a portable jumper battery (lead/acid) which I bought from Costco several years ago for about $70. A neighbor in a BLM campground drained both 12 volt starting batteries on his older Ford diesel pickup with a V-8 engine. I figured, . . . why not try it? I hooked it up and let it charge for about 5 minutes. He cranked the engine. It hemmed and hawed for a few seconds, then to both of our surprise, it started. To date, it has saved at least 6 people, including myself, several times. I won't leave home without it. There are as many different types as there are batteries. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/12/20 12:56pm General RVing Issues
RE: Max amp draw

PbO2+Pb+2H2SO4 -- ChargeDischarge -- 2PbSO4+2H2 BFL13, If I am reading that chemical equation correctly Hydrogen is produced on discharge. From; https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/sealed-battery The link says the last part is "2H2O" not "2H2" but it is confusing. My Battery Bible-- http://www.bestconverter.com/Books_c_67.html just says that on discharge, " the hydrogen ions in the electrolyte move to the positive plates and combine with the oxygen to form water---" on recharging, "the positively charged hydrogen ions are attracted to the negative plates where the hydrogen combines with the lead sulfate to form lead and sulfuric acid. When most of the lead sulfate is converted to lead, hydrogen bubbles form at the negative plates and rise through the electrolyte.....oxygen appears at the positive plate when this process is near completion. the formation of the gas indicates the battery is nearing complete charge..." Those chemical equations are "generalized" to simplify the learning process. In reality, there are many other side reactions which occur, especially as batteries age and the plates/electrolyte becomes contaminated. (with sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium, iron, fluoride, chloride, iodide, etc. from using other than distilled water) Generally, it's true that when recharging lead/acid batteries, more gas is generated than when discharging. The point is, if you are going to discharge wet cell batteries at a high rate over an extended period of time, eventually they will need to be recharged. (probably at a high rate also) The battery compartment(s) need adequate ventilation. That's my point! Overlook that and eventually, . . . . . . BOOM! Chum lee
Chum lee 10/11/20 10:19am Tech Issues
RE: Max amp draw

How well ventilated is your battery compartment, if one exists? In high draw conditions, wet cell (lead/acid) batteries will eventually off gas hydrogen and oxygen in large enough quantities to go boom. (not good) Chum lee
Chum lee 10/10/20 12:48pm Tech Issues
RE: P30 weld in drag link?

Unless you are part of a race/design team with an on staff metallurgist who can properly heat treat your modified suspension/steering parts, the general rule is: "use them as they come out of the box." If they don't fit or look right, . . . . . get a different box. Chances are the right parts are available, but, because of the age of your vehicle, you may have to search for a while to find them. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/10/20 12:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: AV gas for the generator

I find it rather astounding that people will spend extra money to get leaded gasoline for their generators--which are not designed or specified by the manufacturer to operate on--in order to avoid ethanol, which the manufacturer specifically approves and permits.I think you got me. Hard to argue im not a jerk to still buy leaded gas. I run it in my dirt bike sometimes. Lately i buy sonoco brand 110. I think its leaded. Let say i dont spill a drop. Please feel free to make fun of this question. Does the lead come out as a gas? How does it work in terms of leaded gasoline exiting the exhaust? I'm not making fun of you here. You asked a question, and, I will try to answer it with minimal technical mumbo jumbo. Lead is not added to gasoline. Lead is a metal, like what's in bullets. Tetra ethyl lead (a hydrocarbon soluble liquid) is whats added to gasoline. In addition, ethylene dibromide, (also a hydrocarbon soluble liquid) must also be added to gasoline as a scavenging agent to minimize the formation/buildup of lead particles in the combustion chamber. This reduces the tendency of lead particles to form around the spark plug(s) which will eventually cause lead fouling. During the combustion process, the negative bromide ions (in ethylene dibromide) combine with positive lead ions (in tetra ethyl lead) to form lead dibromide, which is a very high molecular weight gas, but, still, a gas which exits the combustion chamber into the atmosphere. (which, it is believed goes on to cause learning disabilities in young developing brains) Or, if it goes through a catalytic converter, it absorbs there, until it ruins it, THEN it passes into the atmosphere. That's as simple as I can say it. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/06/20 05:55pm Tech Issues
RE: Blown engine

You don't state what actually "blew up" on your existing engine. (you may not know at this point) However, I agree that you can get a factory rebuilt GM quality "crate motor" at a considerable discount from GM without necessarily going through the local GM dealer at retail price. You have to decide if you want to take the chance of having an "indy" technician/mechanic install it because if they don't buy the engine (from GM and add their own markup) they will be working for you by the hour. (no materials guarantee, just labor) Good luck to you. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/06/20 04:56pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: AV gas for the generator

Thats a lot of gas cans!! My buddy said you have to walk inside the gate. No vehicles allowed. He posted a picture and circled where the pumps are. Just double checked he wrote $3.50 and posted a picture of his gas cans. Appears to be light blue in color. IPL Well then, . . . rather than just "listening to your buddy" I suggest you go try it today! Please post your findings. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/05/20 03:32pm Tech Issues
RE: AV gas for the generator

Ditto. Running any engine on a higher octane fuel than what the manufacturer recommends is a waste of money.Not always. Ive been putting 110 octane fuel into small engines for 25 years. People often overlook how excessive engine load can cause knocking as well. Its not strictly about compression ratio. Swear to you i currently have 8 month old 110 octane inside a little 1989 TW200 motorcycle. I ride this bike every single day up and down the same hill where i live. While it does not need 110 octane, i promise you there is a performance gain. The bike makes 15 HP i hold the dang thing wide open and ride it like a maniac. It runs stronger on race gas. Its even mixed to 40:1. Only running it because i ran out of regular 91 and need to use up the old gas. Another thing people dont consider is that yes the manufacture recommends 87 octane. Trailer sits for 6 months. What octane do you think that gas has degraded to? I always put 91 into my trailer for this reason. Why not just follow the engine manufacturer’s recommendations?Because with very basic modifications you can increase efficiency. I have never owned a vehicle and left it completely stock. For example the big ole Donandson air filter on my 7.3L. It filters better and flows better. Engine manufacture would most likely recommend i buy a motorcraft filter im guessing. I like OEM for some things. Aftermarket for others. The manufactures engine tune is junk. You can increase power and fuel economy if you dont follow the manufactures tune. So does this "1989 TW200" motorcycle, (I have no idea what that is) have fuel injection, an ECU (engine control unit), oil injection, etc.? It's not surprising that it runs better on higher octane fuel. (like 100 octane LL AVGAS) In the mid/late '70's, early '80's I used to run Yamaha carbureted, oil injected, 2 stroke air cooled 125-250 cc dirt bikes. They get hot! They always ran better on higher octane fuels. Leaded premium, if I could get it. In the early '80's the last locally available gas station in my area (Union 76) stopped selling premium leaded gas. You had to go to the airport (John Wayne in Santa Ana) to get it and you had to know someone working on the flight line who would sell it to you. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/05/20 03:06pm Tech Issues
RE: AV gas for the generator

I'm a private pilot. Right now, the average price for 100 octane low lead AVGAS is $5.17/gal in the SW USA. IMO, this fuel will work fine in your generator, but, . . . why would you consider using it when 87 octane unleaded fuel (the correct fuel for your generator) is readily available in SO CAL for under $3.00 a gallon? Chum leeI dont put 87 in anything. AV gas is $3.50 and 87octane is 3.29. My buddy who posted the AV gas price was excited i think because it was a good deal. We are desert people and its been a good 10 years since i heard talk of guys running AV gas in their sandrails or dirt bikes. When he posted about using it for the generator i thought it could be something interesting to look into. For me its hard to keep fresh gas in my genny during the summer. I literally add 1 gallon every 2 or 3 months. Just so i can start and run the genny for 45-60 mins. If you can buy certified spec grade 100 octane LL AVGAS in the USA for $3.50/gal, I suggest you spend every last dollar you have on it, and, sell it a little below market price in the general aviation market. IMO, the general aviation world will beat a path to your door. Yes, . . . you could be the next Jeff Bezos/Bill Gates/Warren Buffett, etc. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/05/20 01:56pm Tech Issues
RE: AV gas for the generator

I'm a private pilot. Right now, the average price for 100 octane low lead AVGAS is $5.17/gal in the SW USA. IMO, this fuel will work fine in your generator, but, . . . why would you consider using it when 87 octane unleaded fuel (the correct fuel for your generator) is readily available in SO CAL for under $3.00 a gallon? Chum lee
Chum lee 10/04/20 03:31pm Tech Issues
RE: Torque on Lug Nuts

Oh, . . . come on. Please stop it. I'm not saying that owning something like a Dewalt/PorterCable 6 gallon 120 volt pancake compressor (no affiliation) is the most efficient, production line industrial/commercial way to live your life. THAT'S NOT WHAT I'M/WE'RE TALKING ABOUT HERE. Granted, when using a pancake style compressor, you may have to pause briefly to recharge the tank (to 165 psi) after breaking a few oyer-torqued lug bolts/nuts (maybe 650 ft-lbs in this case) but it WILL get them off so that you can, . . . git-er-done in an emergency situation rather than sitting dead in the water. (waiting for some (IMO) overpriced "expert" like you to show up) Chum lee I am sorry that you seem think that I infringe on your self-anointed "Expert Status." You absolutely don't. (infringe on anything I do) You are free to be the biggest rolling a-hole you want. I won't hire you, I'm not impressed by you, I won't recommend you, nor am I intimidated by you. I call 'em like I see 'em. So, . . . have you ever taken a 3/4" drive pneumatic impact gun hooked up to a 6 gallon pancake style compressor and tried to remove some lug nuts/bolts @ 650 ft-lbs of torque? That's a rhetorical question. (which you needn't answer) I already know the answer. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/04/20 02:40pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Torque on Lug Nuts

Whenever anyone (well, . . . besides myself) touches the wheels, tires, suspension components, etc., on ANY vehicle I own, drive, etc., I ALWAYS check/retorque at least a few of the lug nuts/bolts before I leave visual range of the shop that just worked on it. I don't enjoy getting stuck with a flat tire, at night, while it's raining/pouring in the middle of nowhere with a lug nut/bolt that was torqued to 450 ft-lbs and now I CAN'T GET IT OFF with the tools I have. The factory spec on the MH is 150 ft-lbs. Chum lee Factory specs on ours is 450#. My biggest torque wrench only goes to 300#. Might be time,for a torque multiplier. Wow! 450 ft-lbs. That's a lot. (well beyond the capability of mortal men) A torque multiplier is a good idea. If I was driving your vehicle (no, I'm not giving advice here) I would consider investing in a 120 volt pancake style compressor and a 3/4" drive heavy duty pneumatic impact gun like they use in the long haul truck stops. Chum lee A pancake compressor wouldn't last for one lug bolt, if that. Oh, . . . come on. Please stop it. I'm not saying that owning something like a Dewalt/PorterCable 6 gallon 120 volt pancake compressor (no affiliation) is the most efficient, production line industrial/commercial way to live your life. THAT'S NOT WHAT I'M/WE'RE TALKING ABOUT HERE. Granted, when using a pancake style compressor, you may have to pause briefly to recharge the tank (to 165 psi) after breaking a few oyer-torqued lug bolts/nuts (maybe 650 ft-lbs in this case) but it WILL get them off so that you can, . . . git-er-done in an emergency situation rather than sitting dead in the water. (waiting for some (IMO) predatory overpriced "expert" like you to show up) Chum lee
Chum lee 10/02/20 09:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Torque on Lug Nuts

Whenever anyone (well, . . . besides myself) touches the wheels, tires, suspension components, etc., on ANY vehicle I own, drive, etc., I ALWAYS check/retorque at least a few of the lug nuts/bolts before I leave visual range of the shop that just worked on it. I don't enjoy getting stuck with a flat tire, at night, while it's raining/pouring in the middle of nowhere with a lug nut/bolt that was torqued to 450 ft-lbs and now I CAN'T GET IT OFF with the tools I have. The factory spec on the MH is 150 ft-lbs. Chum lee Factory specs on ours is 450#. My biggest torque wrench only goes to 300#. Might be time,for a torque multiplier. Wow! 450 ft-lbs. That's a lot. (well beyond the capability of mortal men) A torque multiplier is a good idea. If I was driving your vehicle (no, I'm not giving advice here) I would consider investing in a 120 volt pancake style compressor and a 3/4" drive heavy duty pneumatic impact gun like they use in the long haul truck stops. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/30/20 05:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A Troubleshooting for us Newbies

My wife I bought a 1999 National RV Class A Dolphin 5350 Motorhome with the Ford 6.8 liter V-10 Triton. It had 29K miles when we bought it. We are living in it fulltime. We gave up the place we were living in search of a relaxed and rent free existence. We knew nothing about motorhomes and have never owned of even been inside one. Its been almost a month now and although everything seemed to work in the beginning, it seems like nothing does now. Where to begin. The automatic leveling system. It worked the first time we turned it on. The panel lit up and we lowered and raised the metal legs or whatever they are called and when we were done we raised them up and turned the panel off. Today we tried to use them and nothing. The panel will not turn on, won't light up, seems dead. What happened? Did we blow a fuse, throw a breaker? Did it burn up, is it dead? What happened that it was working fine and then nothing? Please help us. We have many questions, this is just the first. We are out of our element, we know nothing, we are as green as the greenest grass on earth. But we want to learn, we have to learn, we are not going back to living in a $1,000 a month box. We are RV living now and not looking back. Please advise. Thank you I admire your courage/bravery! Please understand that what you now "own/live in" is the COMBINATION of a 21 year old house and 21 year old truck, plus the interface between the two, and the ground, all compressed into one. Things WILL wear out and go wrong. (on a regular basis) Expect that. Patience, knowledge, manuals, tools, YouTube, the people you meet along the way, and forums like this are valuable resources. You're gonna have a great time! Always keep your sense of humor tuned up. There's very little that is going to happen to both of you that hasn't already happened to someone else, AND, they have already solved the problem(s) in a most efficient/effective way. Just ask, but, do your homework first, and, don't be a pest. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/29/20 02:58pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2002 Ford E350 V10 Transmission Fluid

My best advice to you or anyone is to not try to change out or service your own transmission. Only a professional transmission shop can get all of the old oil out of transmission properly. I learned the hard way and it just is not worth it. I am talking about automatic transmissions. After many months of studying I started using Amsoil in all my trucks and cars many years ago. I use to commute 114 miles a day and a total of over 800,000 miles over 24 year span. Normal transmission fluid is only good for approximately 240 degrees. Amsoil is good for a around 435 degrees. Look up the specification on Amsoil's web site. I do not sell Amsoil but I have used it for about 30 years. Payed $65,000 for my new 2017 Ford 350 dually and yes I use Amsoil in it. I use and like the Bypass filtration systems Amsoil offers and I do use them. Don's Oil web site offers a outstanding rock guard. Please hire a professional to do the transmission service and you will glad you did. PS: Check around, you will post likely be able to purchase Amsoil directly or locally or on line. Check for service shops that offers Amsoil. You can also talk to the service shop, purchase Amsoil and have the shop put it in. To the statement in your first paragraph, I’d say wanna bet? And if that’s the best advice you can give, stop handing out advice. In general, OMG. You and 12V should get married!! You are perfect for each other! Except you drive a Ford. Although it wouldn’t be good to have a same truck marriage. That liberal kinda thing.... IMO, you have a good sense of humor. (Ever consider stand up comedy?) We could probably spend hours sitting around the campfire telling war stories. We were probably never in the same trench at the same time together, but, . . . we were both there! Chum lee
Chum lee 09/28/20 05:50pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Class A V-10 mileage

So, if well-engineered cars can have 8, 9, and 10-speed automatic transmissions in an effort to maximize fuel economy and enhance overall performance in the process, why can't motorhomes? Of course they can. Motor homes generally operate at/above/or close to maximum gross weight. Not so with daily drivers. Most motor homes have the aerodynamic efficiency of 3 - 4' x 8' stacked pieces of plywood which they struggle to push through the air at 55 - 75 mph. That's where/why the fuel efficiency goes through the floor. IMO, the number of speeds in the transmission doesn't matter with regard to fuel efficiency. It only makes the driving/towing experience more palatable. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/28/20 05:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New to me 1979 Dodge Fireball

You should be able to find a Dodge Factory Service Manual (used online) which will cover most of the chassis portion (including wiring) of the motorhome. For the coach side, you may as well be mining for unobtainium. What you see is what you get. Most replacement appliances for the coach are "kind of" universal fit so you will need some carpentry skills/tools to trim the rough edges and "make" them fit. Just be sure (in advance) they are close in size, voltage, venting, plumbing, etc. to what you currently have. (or what was once there) In short, don't try to make a double wide residential refrigerator fit into the space of a college dorm style icebox. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/28/20 01:27pm Class C Motorhomes
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