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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Roof Opinions Please
The biggest question: "Does it leak?" If so, find the leak(s) and fix them, . . . now. It's normal to scrape off/replace cracked sealant every few years. Depending on the original roof material, once cleaned, there are numerous coatings that can be applied to your existing roof to extend the life and improve the appearance. Youtube/Google are your friends.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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05/30/23 07:13am |
Tech Issues
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RE: motorhome pricing
Thanks to all that replied. I decided not to buy this motorhome based on price. He actually had it listed for 45,0000. Wouldn't budge off of 28,0000
I'm not saying this is the case here, but, unfortunately, IME, a lot of sellers think their ageing "BABY" is worth a lot more than it is. Many sellers are upside down in their financing and want to sell their baby for what will (at least) pay off the balance of their loan. That's just another hidden expense of owning a motorhome and NOT your problem. (at least not right now) It's a buyers market right now. There are other fish in the sea!
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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05/29/23 10:18am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Roosevelt Lake {NE of Phoenix} is full...
Nice pics. Thanks for posting. Good to know that AZ and SoCal will have plenty of water for at least another year. I'd really like to see Lake Powell and Lake Mead water levels come up though. We'll see as this years snow pack melts. As of today, both lakes are still about 150' to 170' below full pool.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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05/26/23 07:53pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Class A Motorhome Gasser
The 2006 Ford should be the 2nd generation V-10 (3 valve engine with 315 HP) coupled to the 5R110W five speed automatic/overdrive transmission. It has improved head design that doesn't tend to blow spark plugs. It should have 10 lug wheels, not 8. That's a good thing. It is possible that the chassis is NOT a 2006 model year so it's IMPORTANT to confirm that before you buy if you choose the Ford.
At that age, check the roof condition, in person. Look for water leaks. Seriously deduct your offer if you find ANYTHING wrong with the roof or exterior walls. (leaks, bubbles, delaminations, etc.)
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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05/25/23 09:25am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fuel pump
^^^^
I would estimate between $600 to $1,000 US dlls. (possibly more) depending on how much of a hurry you are in and if your fuel tank is currently full. (of debris in addition to gasoline) Right now, there are lot of aftermarket (non-OEM quality) fuel pump/sending units out there in the $50 range. Be careful with those. I would insist on OEM quality because of the general inconvenience of re-replacing the pump/sender assembly if you get a poor quality unit and it fails prematurely.
Chum lee
P.S.: The fuel pump/sending unit you want is manufactured by Motorcraft #BU9Z-9H307A and costs over $300 on a good day. Figure about 4 hours labor (minimum) at your local going rate. ($125-$200/hr)
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Chum lee
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05/21/23 10:00am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: oil filter?
New to me 2021 Sunseeker Classic on an E 450 Ford Chassis. This unit has the Ford "Godzilla" V8 engine. It is getting close to the time to change the oil and filter. Anyone know the filter number for this engine? I use the combination synthetic and petroleum oil blend!
Thanks,
Bandaid
Please explain why you care about the part number for the oil filter. IMO, oil filters are one of the most common, easily cross referenced maintenance items for all vehicles, and, they are readily available. You don't need to know the part number. Year, make, model, engine size, (which you already have) . . . . bingo, there ya go.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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05/16/23 08:41am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Generator dB rating
Another thing to consider is the "relative quiet" of your generator. For example, if you measure the relative ambient background dB before you start your generator and it's quite high, for example, you are at the beach, an airshow, a NASCAR event infield, or near a major highway, your generator may seem very quiet. But if you are at a place like Chaco Canyon where at night you can hear rabbits scampering about 100' away, (read: dead quiet) even the quietest generator can seem obnoxious.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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05/15/23 06:23pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: What type of oil to put in my 1976 dodge F40 sportman
If original, your MH may have either a 360 cubic inch or a 440 cubic inch V-8 gas engine, which, by now, probably consumes some oil between changes. The oil you select primarily depends on the regular ambient operating temperature and the wear condition of the engine.
Below freezing: 10W-40
Freezing to +- 80F: 15W-40
Desert conditions: 20W-50 (hot all the time)
Use oil that has an API rating of "SN." For older engines that consume oil, I've found that using an oil like Chevron DELO 400 15W-40, or, Shell Rotella T 15W-40 are good values and reduce oil consumption, if that is an issue.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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05/10/23 11:01am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: What is this switch?
Rather than speculate, why not climb underneath the RV and see what's attached to the other side of the switch?
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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05/10/23 10:31am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Observations - Local RV Dealer.
nothing to do with rv BUT your talking price. I just came from a metal supplier you can buy steel in different size. quarter inch by 8in x10 flat stock aluminum only $76. thanks to ?
1. Correct. It has nothing to do with RVing
2. OK, we give up . . . thanks to....?
Dylan Mulvaney? (just a guess)
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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04/30/23 08:37am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: How long does a P32 radiator last?
A lot depends on how well the vehicle is maintained. (using the correct coolant at the proper % and changing it on schedule) If original, your vehicle has a heavy duty truck radiator installed which is generally good until the day it's not good, which depends on the above. If mine, I would keep a sharp eye on the radiator, belts, hoses, (especially the upper radiator hose) water pump seal, fan clutch, and the coolant expansion tank (which tends to crack) at +-15 years and beyond.
Although it does happen, cooling system components rarely fail catastrophically without warning. If you see/hear/smell leaks, bulging, cracks, grinding, squealing, overtemps or variability on the temp gauge, STOP IMMEDIATELY, and figure out why. IMO, it would be a good idea to source, price, and check the availability of the major components now so that you don't get blindsided in the near future.
To get an idea of the condition inside your radiator, look through the open cap and at the opaque plastic walls of the coolant expansion tank. If the inside of the tank is coated with rust, scum, and other lovely unmentionables, chances are your radiator is too.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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04/28/23 09:45am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Power Steps - Lippert - Grinding at Retract?
Correct, the gear does not come individually. It comes with the 3 cushions.
Gear
Richard
Thanks. That is a alternate source. Not Kwikee(LCI). Was not available a few years ago. For $16, safe bet to try. Doug
Yes. When I repaired my 1999 Series 32 steps that had similar issues (with an upgrade kit) in 2015, that gear was not available, and, believe me, I looked. It wouldn't have helped me anyway because the large die cast metal reduction gear inside the main gearbox is what exploded on mine. I do mean exploded. It was in five pieces inside the gearbox and the steps swung freely in the air. They would not extend or retract fully.
IMO, if your broken Kwikee stairs are +15 years old, replacing one gear in the drive train makes as much sense as replacing 1 broken link in an old worn out bike chain.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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04/26/23 09:21am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Manifold Replacements
So, . . . what year is this Ford V-10/MH? What is the GVWR? What is the actual operating weight? What is the length? Do you tow? What is your normal driving speed? Do you use 87 octane(min) fuel? Have you modified the ECU/engine/transmission/exhaust/driveline in any way?
Just a few questions before Ford gets sent to the gallows. (again)
Chum lee
Are you feeling ok?
Sure. Never better. Clearly, you are approaching this issue from the grease pit side of things. (Where I have spent many hours as well) I'm approaching it from the engineering side of things where I have also spent many hours.
Cheers! Go ahead, . . . . repair the damage. My approach is to, . . . . solve the problem first. Then, . . . . fix the damage. If you just fix the damage without solving the problem, IMO, you're just kicking the can down the road. (and putting a few $$$$ in your pocket)
Chum lee
Huh?
Dude needs a repair and is asking if the price is ok….no angle to take. Neither he nor I nor you are going to re-engineer his exhaust manifolds.
This is EXACTLY the response I would expect from you. Expect no further reply.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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04/23/23 10:06am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Manifold Replacements
So, . . . what year is this Ford V-10/MH? What is the GVWR? What is the actual operating weight? What is the length? Do you tow? What is your normal driving speed? Do you use 87 octane(min) fuel? Have you modified the ECU/engine/transmission/exhaust/driveline in any way?
Just a few questions before Ford gets sent to the gallows. (again)
Chum lee
Are you feeling ok?
Sure. Never better. Clearly, you are approaching this issue from the grease pit side of things. (Where I have spent many hours as well) I'm approaching it from the engineering side of things where I have also spent many hours.
Cheers! Go ahead, . . . . repair the damage. My approach is to, . . . . solve the problem first. Then, . . . . fix the damage. If you just fix the damage without solving the problem, IMO, you're just kicking the can down the road. (and putting a few $$$$ in your pocket)
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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04/20/23 10:16am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Manifold Replacements
So, . . . what year is this Ford V-10/MH? What is the GVWR? What is the actual operating weight? What is the length? Do you tow? What is your normal driving speed? Do you use 87 octane(min) fuel? Have you modified the ECU/engine/transmission/exhaust/driveline in any way?
Just a few questions before Ford gets sent to the gallows. (again)
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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04/19/23 08:28pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Is there any REAL quality out there?
If you look at 5-10 years old lightly used-should be able to find some good quality vehicles/rv's. And the bonus is- the majority of wrinkles should be ironed out.
I agree with the above, HOWEVER, if you are not capable of doing it yourself, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS have a competent professional do a thorough pre-purchase inspection for you. Read the report carefully before you plonk down your money. IMO, . . . money well spent. (probably not on the MH, but on the inspection) Expect the MH to be a money pit! Then you won't be disappointed if it's not.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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04/19/23 08:07pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Power Steps - Lippert - Grinding at Retract?
Thank you MrWiz... Everything is well lubed, no binding. Motor grinds with at the same spot with no load, with steps disconnected.
It's like it doesn't know it's at the limit and keeps pulling.
I guess yanking the motor and looking for some broken teeth is next.
Don't bother looking for broken teeth. Even if you have/find them, (for most people) the gears they attach to aren't individually readily available in the aftermarket. Most likely, you'll be needing a motor/gearbox/controller upgrade/update which is readily available. You can buy a new motor, a new gearbox, or, a new controller, or an upgrade kit containing all three. Google is your friend. You'll need the year, the step series, and possibly the chassis which these Kwikee step upgrades will be attached to get the right parts.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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04/12/23 07:46pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Missing orange cover on marker light; Water leakage concerns
Google "Bargman marker lights" They won't be an exact replacement but between the hundreds of options available, I'm sure you'll find something acceptable which has better quality than what you currently have. Just buy the entire fixture (with the bulb holder/wiring) rather a replacement lens.
Check your other marker lights for cracks/water leakage. You may want to replace those too.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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04/12/23 08:50am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Older Ford E450 V10 chassis cold starting problem
Wanted to post this concerning a problem I recently had on a 2002 Mini Winni with the E450 V10 chassis. Had a problem on initial cold start after sitting for several days. Would crank over but not start and run. Like no fuel getting to the engine which I figured out by trial and error! Also when it did start there was quite a bit of exhaust smoke visible out the tail pipe which cleared up after a minute or two then ran fine.
If I turned the key from off to run, back to off to run activating the fuel pump multiple times it would start kind of start rough and then smooth out and run just fine. No drivability issues and no trouble codes. Restarting after this it would start just fine unless you let it sit overnight. Under a 24 hour test you might only have to activate the fuel pump 2 or 3 times to get it to start. (Weeks 5 or 6 times) You can hear the fuel pump activate listening near the rear axel on the drivers side when the key is turned to the "run" position (dash lights come on and fuel pump runs for a couple seconds). Use two people.
The problem was the fuel pump inside the fuel tank which has a drain back valve meant to keep pressure in the fuel line. Had the fuel pump replaced (no easy job as the fuel tank must be lowered) and also had the fuel filter changed which is on the fuel line under the drivers side frame.
This fixed the starting problem but there was still smoke on an initial cold start out the tail pipe. That problem was fixed by replacing the fuel pressure regulator which is mounted on the fuel rail on the back of the engine. This part is easy accessible when the engine hood is removed on the inside passenger area. It is secured in place with a snap ring and has one electrical connection.
These problems seem to be age related more than miles (only 36K) and engine is run every month. Hope this helps some people out there as most Class C's have this engine.
Always, always, always, (did I say always) check for fault codes. Don't try to diagnose this issue yourself. Is your check engine light on? There are thousands of self help Youtube videos on this. If you can't do it (or prefer not to) most national chain parts stores will do it for you for free.
This is what professional technicians ALWAYS do first. (Unless they know the specific issue from previous related trouble shooting with this type of vehicle)
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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04/07/23 07:02pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: E350 Caster Ford TSB
"Where can I find Ford technical service bulletins (TSB's)?
How to Find Free TSB's. To find a TSB, go to NTHSA's Safety Issues & Recalls page. Type in either your vehicle's unique 17-character vehicle identification number or its year, make, and model. Feb 4, 2020"
In many cases, NTHSA will give you the TSB number/title, BUT, not the TSB content itself. With the TSB number, any Ford dealer can look up the TSB for content, but unless they know you (read: like you) they won't do it for free or at all. Alldata is the same way. Do you know anyone (repair shop) with an Alldata subscription?
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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04/05/23 07:55am |
Class C Motorhomes
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