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 > Your search for posts made by 'Chum lee' found 368 matches.

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RE: Continental Tires PSI rising 20

"Water vapor causes some deviations from the ideal behavior as at typical tire temperatures and pressures water doesn't quite respond as an ideal gas. Maybe the air you have in the tires isn't particularly dry." Just a guess. You might want to try bleeding the existing air from the tires and filling them again with . . . . KNOWN DRY AIR! Having filled the tires with excess humidity may be an issue. 20 psi change from cold to hot is a lot especially in winter time. I'm generally not a fan of using nitrogen in RV tires but that would be another option if dry air doesn't help. Chum lee
Chum lee 12/07/19 12:23pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Warranty work on TT v 5r v MH

Overall complexity, IMO, is what generally causes issues (both warranty and wear/time related repairs) with both mechanical and structural assemblies. The more "stuff" you got, the more can/will/does go wrong. Chum lee
Chum lee 12/04/19 12:31pm General RVing Issues
RE: The buy local fallacy

"Local" in the typical sense has no meaning to me because I travel all the time in my RV. For me, what local is what's currently outside. Chum lee
Chum lee 12/04/19 12:25pm General RVing Issues
RE: Marketing Boo Boos

A little off subject but funny (sad) in a cruel way: 1977, Linda Ronstadt performs live at Tennessee State Prison singing her hit song "You're No Good" to a . . . . . . captive audience . . . . . oops! Yes, it actually happened and it's on video at YouTube. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/26/19 03:18pm General RVing Issues
RE: A Camp-Away-from-Quartzsite-with-SxS Question

If you travel up to Parker, you can stay at Blue Water Casino for a few days free. (subject to change) Within and behind the mountains to the east of Parker there are more trails and washes than you could traverse by spring. You can go all the way to Lake Havasu City and Hwy 40 or all the way back to the "Q" without seeing a paved road. There are numerous (free 14 day) BLM campgrounds south and north of LHC as well as in Q. See the BLM office in LHC for more info. The LTVA offices in Q also have some local BLM campground info. See google maps for more trail/wash topographical info. You will have a good time if you are into exploring. Since you can get a little remote, it's best to travel in pairs if you can. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/23/19 03:54pm General RVing Issues
RE: first report new springs with a surprize result

Just guessing. Did you, by chance, fill your tank with non-ethanol fuel or go from summer to winter blend fuel? Chum lee
Chum lee 11/20/19 01:36pm Tech Issues
RE: Will solid state batteries change the world?

I gave up on the video. I think I know what he is blabbering about. but non the less he's blabbering. Like many YouTube videos, they are slow to get started, full of blather, and low valuable content. Skip through the intro to 4:40 for the gold. Google "John B. Goodenough" Dr. Goodenough is a Nobel Prize Winner and the inventor of the Lithium-Ion battery. Enough said. He (and his team) may just change the the world, . . . . . again, with solid state battery technology. All the major battery manufacturers/users (Tesla, Samsung, etc.) are in fast track mode with this new technology which some say may be ready by the year 2025. Doubling the Li-Ion capacity, doubling the life, halving the weight, halving the space, halving the price. Anyone interested? I think so, . . . . if it works. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/18/19 04:55pm Tech Issues
RE: Parts for Kwikee Steps

Figure out what stair series and drive type you have. If it's a two step stair on a Class A, it's probably a series 32. Being an older stair (pre 2000) you may already have an updated controller/motor/gearbox (if someone previously upgraded it) if its original, you may not. I don't believe you can still buy new older series parts and you generally can't mix older generation parts with upgraded parts. You'll probably need to upgrade your controller and gearbox on your older series 32 stairs. There is an upgrade kit available. If your stairs are rusted/worn/bent and the gearbox/controller missing, it may be better to just buy a whole new stair assembly, install it and start fresh. Google is your friend. Parts are available in all the popular locations. (Amazon, Ebay, online RV parts dealers) Get the parts and drawing diagrams and confirm which stairs you have before ordering anything. There are several different drive/gearbox/linkage assemblies. Google: "Kwikee Stair Step Parts" Chum lee
Chum lee 11/18/19 04:17pm Class A Motorhomes
Will solid state batteries change the world?

IMO, this has real potential. Time will tell. You go John B. Goodenough! A true pioneer. A google/wiki search is in order. This guy is the real deal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0nA8CfxBqA Chum lee
Chum lee 11/18/19 12:14pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar panel purpose on used motorhome

As others have stated, it most likely came that way from the factory as a trickle charge maintainer. (my '99 Class A has the same thing) Normally the panel is about 12" square. When clean and new, a reasonable output expectation would be about 8 to 12 watts or at 12 volts nominal, less than one amp which is essentially, . . . . . useless for just about anything other than running a small transistor radio or charging your cell phone. Sorry but don't get your hopes up, you'll need a lot more panel area than that for any type of meaningful solar power generation. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/17/19 02:11pm Tech Issues
RE: 20 year old hoses

Wow! That rig looks, . . . . . reeeeallly nice! Chum lee
Chum lee 11/14/19 03:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Alternator

To a certain extent, your chassis alternator output (voltage and current) is dependent on the current state of charge of your chassis battery(s) and the loads placed on the alternator by the VEHICLES electrical system. If your chassis battery is fully charged, expect the alternator output to be a fraction of it's maximum rated capacity until the existing loads drop the charge in the chassis battery. Ford engineers designed their charging system that way to improve fuel mileage and to prevent people from doing what they want to do . . . . . charge the batteries in their camper with the chassis alternator. Chum lee I not talking about a pickup truck here ... but with respect to our small Class C motorhome on an E450 V10 chassis with "only" a 130 amp alternator: The V10 engine battery I have installed is an overkill Ford OEM battery model intended for their diesel trucks. The coach has two 115 AH Group 31 AGM batteries wired in balanced parallel. Whenever the V10 is running, the two coach batteries and one engine battery are all connected together in direct parallel via a high amperage continuous duty 12V solenoid. I know this because I have an engine battery readout voltmeter mounted on the dash and a coach battery readout voltmeter also mounted on the dash - and they both read nearly the same all the time - which means that all three batteries are connected in direct parallel when the engine is running. There appears to be no isolation diodes involved between the engine battery and coach batteries. I've also mounted on the dash an ammeter that reads the current going into, or out of, the coach batteries. After drycamping a bit, whenever the coach batteries are down to around 50% (12.0-12.1V reading on their dash voltmeter), I sometimes start up the V10 and idle it for an hour or so to conveniently and very quietly to partially top up the two coach batteries. The coach battery ammeter (on the dash) will sometimes spike to as high as 80 amps at first (V10 idling), and then gradually taper down as the coach batteries are being boost and bulk charged via the 130 amp Ford alternator. The voltage output of the alternator (as indicated by the voltmeter on the dash) will start out at 14.X volts at first, and then gradually taper down as the coach batteries charge up. So the bottom line is ... yes, some stock engine alternator systems can indeed be used to charge camper battery systems just fine. As a sidenote, the performance curve for our V10's 130 amp Ford alternator indicates that it can indeed output around 70-80 amps at engine idle RPM speeds, so it's performing as expected ... at least in our 2005 E450 based motorhome. Even though the engine itself may be idling at only 550-650 RPM, the pulley system powering the alternator spins it a lot faster. In order for an engine alternator to output high currents at low engine speeds, the engine merely has to be able to delivery enough horsepower at idle so as to spin the alternator at whatever RPM the alternator's power vs RPM curve requires for the desired amperage output in the application. It may be difficult to locate the power-vs-rpm graphs for many alternators, however. Yes, my '99 F53 (V10) does the same thing and on some mornings I often run the engine at idle to put a little charge (little is the key word) in the house batteries. As theoldwizard1 mentioned, the newer vehicles are more sensitive to charging conditions. The problem is, when idling with the alternator putting out close to the maximum voltage/current, even though the alternator is over driven, the cooling fan on the alternator needs to be able to dissipate the additional heat generated with the engine at idle. Since the idle is stabilized, available horsepower isn't the issue, . . . . IMO, cooling is. I'm not saying that it will fail overnight, it just gets hotter. Heat kills, . . . . . more heat kills more quickly. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/14/19 03:14pm Tech Issues
RE: Do you think a front cargo rack is too dangerous?

"An engineer friend saw it yesterday and said he thought it was extremely dangerous, because at freeway speed it could potentially set up a wobble, twist itself off, and end up underneath the front of the van. And, as he pointed out, that would be much worse than a rear rack coming off and dragging." So it would be OK if the rack (or it's contents) fell off the back and ended up under someone else's vehicle? As long as you don't know about it, . . . . no problem? Hummmmmmmmmmmmmm. At least if it's on the front of your vehicle, you can keep an eye on it. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/14/19 02:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Alternator

To a certain extent, your chassis alternator output (voltage and current) is dependent on the current state of charge of your chassis battery(s) and the loads placed on the alternator by the VEHICLES electrical system. If your chassis battery is fully charged, expect the alternator output to be a fraction of it's maximum rated capacity until the existing loads drop the charge in the chassis battery. Ford engineers designed their charging system that way to improve fuel mileage and to prevent people from doing what they want to do . . . . . charge the batteries in their camper with the chassis alternator. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/13/19 01:29pm Tech Issues
RE: Water line burst

1. Get a quality regulator and always use it. 2. Always turn water off when you leave the campsite. Agreed. Never assume the campground water pressure will be consistent. Many RV parks have their own well(s). Deeper wells often have two stage pumps to get water to the surface with sufficient pressure and volume. During times of high demand, both pumps may operate. (filling the campgrounds main storage tank for example) If/When a major draw suddenly shuts off, a huge pressure spike propagates throughout the system and the system pressure may stay elevated for a few minutes. If you lack the appropriate pressure regulating ability and your RV system is "iffy" you may experience fractured pipes. Hopefully you (or someone else) will be around if/when this happens. I've personally seen this happen several times. The RV park owner told me about their two stage well pumps. Now you know. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/13/19 01:00pm Tech Issues
RE: Class A Fulltimer freeze concerns

I'm a genetic fair weather sissy so I avoid freezing by leaving the region before the cold weather sets in. If that's not possible for you, there are some economical longitudinally split open/closed cell foam insulation tubes for most smaller diameter PVC/copper pipes available in most home centers. They won't hold a candle to a week long polar vortex, but, they will give your external rigid exposed pipes a few more degrees/hours protection if you KNOW freezing is going to be an issue. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/12/19 05:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dirt

I like the added insulation that carpet on the floor provides in my Class A. My feet get cold easily. That said, I never vacuum it. I only shampoo it about once every three weeks with hot water and no soap. Using two exterior floor mats, one with brushes and one with felt helps keep a lot of dirt out of the MH to start with. RV's see a LOT of in/out traffic in a very confined space. Combining that with cooking/washing smoke/vapors is a recipe for rapid filth accumulation no matter what the floor surface. In short, if you use it regularly, RV's get dirty real quick. I'm looking for a deal on some quality washable, easily removable carpet pads to mount on my kwikee stairs for next season. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/12/19 02:30pm General RVing Issues
RE: 20 year old hoses

Inspect, Inspect ---- and change as required. all new hoses will set you back $3000 or more. We commonly see 50 years on Equipment with no problem. Agreed! But, inspect for what? Make sure your pressure cap is functional, if applicable. Flexible hoses, both coolant and hydraulic, typically fail from the inside out. So, you can't see the internal cracks in the hose when it's beginning to fail because the failure points are on the inside. (unless you can see physical damage on the outside) Internal cracks will eventually show themselves externally. When you inspect your hoses you should do it when they are hot and pressurized. Generally you will see bulging near the clamped portions at the ends, at flex points, or, at the swagged fittings for hydraulic hoses. Of course, leaks/seeping/precipitate of any kind should receive immediate attention. If tightening the clamp doesn't cure the leak, you should replace the hose. If the hose is bulging throughout its length when hot/pressurized, it's done no matter what it looks like. At 30,000 miles and considering the age of your MH, it has been sitting cold/covered more than 99% of its life. If you are using factory recommended fluids and changing them regularly, chances are you are fine. If it makes you feel better, you can buy the hoses that run hot and carry them with you. Then you'll be prepared. IMO, you should buy OEM quality hoses if you decide to change them. This is not a place to save a buck on parts. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/12/19 02:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: house battery question

when checking the water in the house batteries, is it necessary to disconnect the batteries to do so. if not, does the electricity need to be disconnected first. thank you in advance for your help. Unless you can't access the battery tops in their mounted location (to move/remove/inspect them) then NO don't disconnect them unless you have a specific reason to do so. In fact, disconnecting them would INCREASE the chances of causing sparks/shorts which could be . . . . . . problematic, . . . . if charging/discharging gasses are present in your battery bay. Prior to working/servicing the batteries, DO shut off all major loads (including the engine, generator, and shore power) and any chargers. Clean up (neutralize) any spillage when you're done. Water with baking soda works great, and, it's cheap. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/08/19 12:02pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Cummins 5 year old synthetic oil with 1000 miles - change ?

Normally I'm not a fan of testing oil, (in lieu of changing it) but in this case, he could spend +-$40.00 and have the oil tested by a lab to see if it's fit for continued use. Or there's the oil blotter test using a clean white business card for free. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/499/blotter-spot-method Chum lee
Chum lee 11/07/19 07:55pm Class A Motorhomes
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