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 > Your search for posts made by 'Chum lee' found 51 matches.

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RE: Just Asking

Starting about the middle of October through April, head out to Quartzsite, AZ. There are more that a few RV dealers (some seasonal and temporary) who think it's an excellent time to sell. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/25/22 08:40am General RVing Issues
RE: Just Asking

This might make me seem a little unstable, but, IMO, the best time to sell a self contained RV is right AFTER a catastrophic event takes place. For example, several years ago, a huge fire literally wiped out the town of Paradise in Northern California. Over 12,000 structures were destroyed in a day. The homes were mostly owned privately by people who planned to rebuild using RV's as temporary housing on their burned out property. Within a month, every available functional RV within a 200 mile radius sold/resold at premium prices because the demand skyrocketed while the supply dwindled. Welcome to America! Chum lee
Chum lee 09/25/22 05:49am General RVing Issues
RE: 1997 Chev P30 Dolphin motorhome fuel pump relay switch

I need to find out which colored wire goes to which terminal on the 5 pin relay as the wires were pulled out. The relay should have a schematic printed somewhere on it. (shows which wires do what) There should be two larger size wires (current from main bus to fuel pump) and three smaller control/signal wires. If you can find a wiring diagram (factory service manual) it will tell you which color goes to which terminal. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/21/22 10:20am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Closer to a head on then you ever want to be...

Once we got out heart rates back undef 100 my bride and I continued on for nearly 5 minutes before even speaking and what we had to say is not fit to print. What in the heck is wrong with people? :h While the mini van was the scariest driver I have ever encountered and probably impaired beyond being terminally stupid the Class A driver could have diffused the situation by simply getting on his brakes and letting the idiot squeeze in... why kill us??? :M:M:M Hindsight is always 20/20. You're assuming that the Class A driver also saw the impending situation and KNEW what all the potentially involved vehicles were going to do in advance. PROBABLY NOT THE CASE! Glad you, the Mrs., and, your vehicles survived, unscathed, to tell another story. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/18/22 08:40am General RVing Issues
RE: Storage of Fresh Water - How Long

A lot depends on where you got the "fresh" water that filled your tank and how long it has been there. If it came from your local municipal water supply, chances are the water has been recently chlorinated and disinfected with ozone, UV, or whatever the local water treatment plant currently does. You can usually call them and ask if you want to know for sure. If the water came from a private well, that's not the case. It could be much better than municipal water, or much worse. Test kits are available. Google is your friend. For me, if it looks bad (anything other than clear) smells bad, or tastes bad, dump it and flush the system with fresh chlorinated water. I drink/cook with RO (reverse osmosis) water. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/14/22 06:28am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Front grill filter

Wow! This is why I do not regularly post here any more. In my previous post in this thread, I clearly say I have 1/8" mesh, which, so far, works well, . . . . . then this guy (wolfe10) posts a link for 1/4" mesh and then says it wont work for the application which I'm not using it for. Chum lee Please, close the thread!
Chum lee 09/12/22 09:44pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Require a new driver's side wiper pivot mechanism

Good day, I'm new to this forum and looking for some help. I have a 2006 Holiday Rambler Scepter, 41ft. The driver's side wiper pivot mechanism is stripped, so the wiper, at will, slides off the drivers side of the coach when it does decide to work. The original P/N is 300678. Does anyone know where I might purchase one, I'm thinking aftermarket likely unless someone knows of some OEM ones around somewhere. Thanks in advance Dan Dan: Depending on who the chassis manufacturer of your coach was, the wiper pivot may have been supplied by the chassis manufacturer or from the coach manufacturer. At 41 ft., I'm assuming it's a diesel pusher, but, it would be best if you include that information in your initial post if you want accurate useful information. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/12/22 02:06pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Front grill filter

The previous owner of my 1999 Southwind Class A (Ford F53 chassis) zip tied some cut to fit 1/8" square galvanized steel mesh to the back side of the front radiator grill. Ya, that is what the Chevy chassis guru referred to as "hardware cloth". Much more open than any screen-- and "approved". Excellent for keeping rocks out of the radiator, but will not do much for bugs. I don't understand. I regularly pull bees, grasshoppers, moths, dragonflies, butterflies, June bugs, beetles, horseflies, etc. out of the wire mesh. Are these NOT bugs? In addition, it's also stopped pea gravel, broken glass, drywall screws, paper, plastic, leaves, etc. I know my RV didn't come from the factory with the screen, but, that's why I left it installed. Your experience may vary. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/10/22 08:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Front grill filter

The previous owner of my 1999 Southwind Class A (Ford F53 chassis) zip tied some cut to fit 1/8" square galvanized steel mesh to the back side of the front radiator grill. I painted it all flat black so it isn't really visible from the outside. So far, it seems to do a pretty good job of keeping road debris, bees, grasshoppers, butterflies and other flying pests off the AC condenser, the transmission cooler, and out of the radiator/engine bay. Even on the hottest days, overheating has never been an issue. I spray it clean with high pressure water from the inside as necessary. I never drive in freezing conditions, but, I can see how it might be an issue with freezing rain, hail, or with large snowflakes. So far, so good. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/10/22 03:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: charging an EV at a campground

Another summertime issue in many campgrounds is sure to be that EV charging may preempt the ability of others to operate their air conditioning… As temperatures rise to to 100’s (uh-o :( !!), this is sure to test the mental metal of otherwise friendly fee-paying for services campers… 3 tons - mostly (happily!) :) off-the-grid… (full disclosure, 400a/hr LFP, 660w rooftop solar - newly added 360w of portable MPPT PV..) I read this twice and I’m not sure I understand. Why would using an RV pedestal to charge a car pre-empt someone else on another site from running an AC? Maybe I misunderstood this. Because there is a finite capacity in campground wiring, in most cases installed prior to today where everyone has to have a huge monster of an RV with 2 or 3 air conditioners, heat pumps, electric clothes dryers etc. The vast majority of places I have been have had issues such as low voltage on crowded weekends etc. Yep! Nowhere in the video did I see that these guys (in the video) actually checked the line voltage at the pedestal. (with or without the EV charging load) They assumed that it was 120V and 240V. My bet is that this was NOT the case. Dropping the pedestal voltage even a little bit below nominal greatly effects (decreases) the ultimate charging rate especially with the 120 V system. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/04/22 06:29am General RVing Issues
RE: Delete a Propane Solenoid Safety Valve?

The hydrocarbon detector (propane) and the propane safety shutoff solenoid are designed to operate together to minimize the possibility of propane leaks in the interior of your motor home. If you disable the system, you no longer have that safety feature. If, for some reason, the flame blows out on your range top, propane gas will now begin to fill your motor home. If someone (by accident) jars one of the range burner valves, opening it without lighting the burner, the same thing happens. Now, it's just a matter of time until the propane reaches stoichiometry, finds an ignition source, and, . . . . . . . . Bye! In similar fashion, many fuel injected cars have an inertially activated fuel pump shutoff valve that cuts power to the fuel pump relay after an accident. (even if the engine remains running) After a serious accident, with fuel lines breached, pouring fuel on a high potential fire hazard is generally NOT a good idea. When you are racing and have a serious accident, there's always a track safety crew to come and quickly extinquish any fire(s). In your motor home, . . . not so. Chum lee Your concern is duly noted.. However, in reality, the amount of RVs factory equipped with solenoids controlled by LP detector are very few compared to the quantity of RVs without. Highly doubt there is more RV fires and explosions that happen with RVs without that system. It is a great idea but in reality not necessary, not required by law and over the yrs different manufacturers have come and gone and when it comes time to repair the systems parts often will not interchange and obsolete systems, the parts are made of "unobtainium" causing a major retrofit. Millions, perhaps billions of homes are serviced by propane or natural gas also, not all that many (if any at all) make the news as blowing up because someone accidentally "bumped" on of the ranged valves or wind blew out the flame. Comparing auto fuel systems isn't all that good of a comparison either. Fuel injection systems operate at very high pressure (40PSI-50PSI) and when a vehicle is involved in an accident the concern is all that fuel under high pressure spraying on to very hot engine and exhaust parts creating an intense fire ball.. The propane at your appliances is maybe 1/2 PSI.. Nowhere did I tell you, or anyone else what they should or should not add/remove from/to their propane system. As far as I'm concerned, it's your vehicle (home) and your choice. Clearly, you haven't thought about this at all. I'm not talking about fuel injectors spraying atomized fuel on/into a hot engine. I'm talking about a running fuel pump with ruptured fuel lines pumping liquid fuel at 50 psi into a crash zone. Do you get the difference? In a residential application, (as you have stated at .5psi) dumping gaseous fuel (propane/natural gas/whatever) into a large area is going to take a lot of time to reach the stochiometric explosive point. In the confines of an RV, not so. Do you GET that? I don't think so. Look Mr. Gdetrailer, I have no interest in getting into a pissing match with you. One question for you though. Where did you get your engineering degrees? It's a rhetorical question. (I really don't care and don't bother answering, . . . I already know the answer) This is why I rarely post here anymore. Chum lee
Chum lee 08/24/22 11:56pm Tech Issues
RE: Delete a Propane Solenoid Safety Valve?

The hydrocarbon detector (propane) and the propane safety shutoff solenoid are designed to operate together to minimize the possibility of propane leaks in the interior of your motor home. If you disable the system, you no longer have that safety feature. If, for some reason, the flame blows out on your range top, propane gas will now begin to fill your motor home. If someone (by accident) jars one of the range burner valves, opening it without lighting the burner, the same thing happens. Now, it's just a matter of time until the propane reaches stoichiometry, finds an ignition source, and, . . . . . . . . Bye! In similar fashion, many fuel injected cars have an inertially activated fuel pump shutoff valve that cuts power to the fuel pump relay after an accident. (even if the engine remains running) After a serious accident, with fuel lines breached, pouring fuel on a high potential fire hazard is generally NOT a good idea. When you are racing and have a serious accident, there's always a track safety crew to come and quickly extinquish any fire(s). In your motor home, . . . not so. Chum lee
Chum lee 08/24/22 07:33pm Tech Issues
RE: Where to get Replacement Wheel Bearings -Old Camper

Remove both an inner and outer bearing on one good wheel and clean them off. You don't state where you are currently located, but, find a professional industrial bearing supply company close to you. (Google is your friend) Take the old bearings there and tell them you want new bearings of equal or better quality than the ones you have . . . . . they can help you with getting the right stuff. They will explain your options. (manufacturer, country of origin, ABEC grade, etc.) You and your budget now determine the quality you get, not what happens to be on the shelf. IME, if you find a good vendor, generally, these guys aren't the minimum wage pimple faced millennials that you'll find at national chain auto parts stores. They KNOW bearings. It's what they do. IME, many times, its actually cheaper (and better quality) than going to national chain auto parts stores. If you are stuck in the boonies, McMaster-Carr can help you by phone, online, and by mail order. Most roller bearings are very common interchangeable parts, . . . if you know where to look and how to ask for help. Chum lee
Chum lee 08/21/22 09:37am General RVing Issues
RE: Any issues having slides on both sides?

While travelling, sometimes I overnight at a Walmart, roadside rest stop, casino, friends houses (driveway or street parking), or other locations where my RV (30' class A no slides) must fit into a standard 9' x xx' parking space designed for automobiles. Those areas won't be available to you if you must extend your slides to have a usable floor plan. In most RV parks, IMO, width is not a problem. In older parks, sometimes the length is. In one roadside rest area, I saw a long haul trucker tear the slide off a 36' 5'er when pulling out. Truck drivers quote: "I couldn't believe it (the slide) extended THAT far! I didn't see it in my mirrors." Chum lee
Chum lee 08/12/22 10:01am General RVing Issues
RE: Stalls While Driving

To OP: Did you figure this out yet? Your fuel tank is vented through a charcoal canister. The tank should run at a fairly neutral pressure (ambient) and is vented for both vacuum and pressure through the charcoal canister and sometimes the fuel fill cap. If the vacuum vent(s) is/are plugged, the fuel tank will develop a partial vacuum as you burn off fuel. The fuel pump will cavitate and fail to pump if the pump inlet is under too much vacuum. (less than ambient atmospheric pressure) You mentioned in your OP that it runs fine after you vent the tank by removing the fuel cap. Try confirming that the fuel tank vents properly before throwing parts at it. It is an older vehicle, but, 62,000 miles isn't much for a fuel pump (with good maintenance) in that era. Chum lee
Chum lee 08/12/22 09:33am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Stalls While Driving

Is your check engine light on? Yes/no? Check for fault codes first, before you throw parts at it. Chum lee
Chum lee 08/04/22 09:20pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2 a/c units on 1 gen?

Hummmmmm. Why do people assume that the wattage (capacity) of a given generator means that it will provide that wattage at ALL temperatures, altitudes, and humidities. This is simply not true. Generally, (unless you are turbocharged) as the temperature, elevation, and humidity go up, rated output goes down. That's why some people can get it to work, for some people it works, . . . . sometimes, while, others can't get it to work at all. Everybody isn't in the same location, on the same day, at the same time. It's true that sometimes the breakers/wires/plugs can't handle the load, but sometimes the genny can't produce enough horsepower to generate the wattage either. (which can cause conductors to overheat) Chum lee
Chum lee 07/26/22 03:27pm Tech Issues
RE: Installed generator stolen?

In your application, I've seen internally mounted generators get stolen from long term RV storage lots that are generally lacking in security, but in popular campgrounds with people present, generally no. Nothing is impossible, but, IMO, it takes too long, makes too much noise, and the genny's are too heavy/bulky to easily depart with. It's much easier to grab a portable Honda 2000i or similar sized unit. All you need is a bolt cutter. Chum lee
Chum lee 07/21/22 12:03am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Using a swamp cooler

The basic problem with using swamp coolers in areas where they work well, in an RV, while off the grid, is the quantity of water that they use on a daily basis. For example, at +95 degrees F and 20% humidity (typical desert environment where water is scarce) it wouldn't be unusual to use 3 to 5 gallons of water per day to cool a +-300 sq. ft. RV. If the humidity remains low, expect no more than a 20F drop in temperature. How much water do you typically carry in your RV? If you happen to have a convenient readily available soft water source, . . . . no problem. If not, well, . . . . now you know why it's not a more popular idea. Chum lee
Chum lee 07/20/22 01:21pm Tech Issues
RE: Camping World RV Sales

I simply don't understand why potential "customers" put up with poor service, or, even question it. It's nothing personal. Just move on. IMO, there are plenty of high quality people who would love to have your business. In this business environment, they simply can't afford to find you. (the sales commissions are too low) YOU HAVE TO FIND THEM! When you do, . . . . . the deal you get will be worth it. Chum lee
Chum lee 07/12/22 05:48pm Camping World RV Sales
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