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 > Your search for posts made by 'Chum lee' found 65 matches.

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RE: GMC Class A

Have you recently owned a GMC Class A manufactured in the 1970s? Can it be reliable transportation? Or is it strictly a collector-hobbyist thing? I agree with the above comments. Is it reliable? Well, . . . that depends on you. It's a +-50 year old vehicle. As such, it probably has 1,000's of issues that need attention, NOW, and 1000's more that will need your attention in the future. As the owner, are you confident that you can see and resolve those issues before they put you on the side of the road and/or ruin your camping trip, or, are you the standard retail buyer with AAA who buys an extended service warranty/contract that (you think) will rescue you from what you do not know. Or, . . . . somewhere in between? These are the questions only you can answer. Chum lee
Chum lee 01/25/23 07:14am Class A Motorhomes
RE: time to replace brakes?

A good machine shop can handle 0.005" TIR and less without issue. But, some auto parts places will not guarantee much of anything. I gave up around here trying to get the local auto parts store to turn brake rotors or drums. After getting them back worse than when I gave them to them, I gave up and just bought new brake drums & rotors. John In modern times, once brake drums/rotors are out of tolerance, a good machine shop can get them round/flat again, BUT, the problem is that when they remove material, it takes the castings out of tolerance from a thickness variation standpoint. Once the rotors/drums are heated up in use, they usually go out of tolerance again very quickly because the thickness variation causes too much differential heating (expansion/contraction) and the shuddering/pulsing returns. The older "boat anchor" style drums/rotors no longer exist because engineers are trying to save unsprung weight and reduce rotational inertia to the detriment of durability/longevity. Best bet: once drums/rotors are out of tolerance for any reason, replace them with like and kind. (new) Truck/trailer components are usually more robust, but, . . . . do you feel lucky? Chum lee
Chum lee 01/24/23 11:28am Tech Issues
RE: time to replace brakes?

Apples and oranges here but when replacing shoes on my Dexter axle boat trailer(surge brakes),Dexter wanted $150 a side.I went to my go to guy at Oreillys and he thought they looked like 80s Chevy shoes.He grabbed a couple boxes from the back and we compared them.One was a direct match,even the stamping marks on the steel were exactly the same.$30 a set for the best ones they had. YES! Remember, . . . . Dexter doesn't make brakes. They make axles. They outsource the brakes they use from other companies like Bendix, Wagner, etc. who also outsource the friction materials they use from others. When you buy at O'reilly's you cut out a few well paid middlemen. (and their markup) Not all brake friction materials are the same so you are still responsible for choosing the right material durability for your application. When I was younger, we used to have brake shoes relined. Better than new. (about $5.00 a wheel for most automotive applications) Times have changed. Like bearings, there still is a lot of cross compatibility in brakes. Chum lee
Chum lee 01/20/23 08:18am Tech Issues
RE: Extinction of Fossil Fuels

Support your favorite industry lobbyists. That's their job to contact targeted politicians and make their opinions known. No matter what the industry, these people walk the halls of congress daily trying to bend whatever ears they can. Whether it's propane, (fossil fuels) fast food, or tobacco, THEY ARE ALREADY THERE! Chum lee
Chum lee 01/19/23 08:16am General RVing Issues
RE: Replace fridge with different model?

Our older RV (2005 Fleetwood 25QB) fridge (Dometic RM2652) died, and I'm wondering if there's any issues replacing it with an RM2620? It is not listed as a replacement model in but as far as I can see the only difference is it's slightly smaller, and I could just shim and bolt it into place as securely as possible. I wouldn't say it's "slightly smaller," . . . . . I would say it's considerably smaller! (about 2 cubic feet smaller) If that's OK with you, then, IMO, it's just a matter of some minor cabinetry work (filler slats/panels) and possibly some plumbing work if the propane connection ends up in a slightly different location because of how you choose to mount the new unit. If the 2620 has a condensate drain, make sure there is adequate slope/location to drain the the exterior. Think of the information in the chart as "for direct replacements" which the RM2620 is not. I believe the RM2652 still has parts available direct from Dometic, and in the aftermarket if you go that route. At least it did was when I replaced my entire unit (RM2652) in 2015. They have gone up quite a bit in price since then. If I remember, I paid about $1,350 installed for a new RM2652 then. I've recently seen refurbished units on Ebay for about $1,000. (add hefty shipping fee) Chum lee
Chum lee 01/16/23 09:02am General RVing Issues
RE: generator fuel line

ALL lines that transfer fluids have multiple ways to degrade/fail. They can deteriorate from the outside which you can see (cracks, discoloration, hardening, swelling, deflection, corrosion, oxidation, abrasion, leaks, excess/low pressure, etc.) and they can degrade from the inside, for the same reasons, . . . . which you CANNOT see. Then, they just fail, . . . . usually catastrophically, without notice. Chum lee
Chum lee 01/11/23 09:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: burbing fridge

Thanks for the responses. I guess I'm trying to convince myself to gamble with the burp thing. However, my better half says get a new cooling unit. BTW the fridge is still working like it should, but it's parked at the house. You haven't stated HOW MUCH you DEPEND on your RV for the necessities of life. IMO, if it's a vehicle that you occasionally use to venture into the wild blue yonder and you have many options available to you, I wouldn't hesitate to take a chance on it. (It's not that hard to fix if/when it breaks, it's just $$$) But if you (and others) deeply boondock regularly and ALL your favorite perishable foods are stored there, . . . . well, I would replace it tomorrow. (at least the cooling unit if there's no other physical damage) Chum lee
Chum lee 01/11/23 08:47pm Tech Issues
RE: burbing fridge

I've found that the average life for Dometic RV two/three way absorption refrigerators to be around 9 to 14 years depending on the use/abuse cycle. Living in the RV full time or not using it at all, parking way off level, failing to keep the burner can/vents clean, operating in extremely hot/cold temperatures, and a lot of off road use (bouncing around), tend to reduce the life. Some units make it over twenty years without major repairs, . . . . but, not many. Do you feel lucky? Chum lee
Chum lee 01/11/23 09:04am Tech Issues
RE: Does AC soft start work on any AC

First mistake, Chum Lee, is making assumptions. We have ran an A/C unit several times off grid. And that was before adding the last 2 batteries. You are correct. I am making assumptions here because I have to. (the OP has not provided enough information) Please note, . . . ahhhhh Captain, I didn't say it wouldn't work. I know it will AND you've proved it will. (for yourself) The questions are, "For how long?" and, "Is that sufficient to cool the vehicle in the OP's application?" You also seem to have recognized that you need more battery storage, which was the point of my post. Thank's for restating it. Chum lee
Chum lee 01/03/23 09:00am Tech Issues
RE: Does AC soft start work on any AC

First mistake: Trying to run an AC off batteries/inverter. Using a soft start may get your AC started, but, your issue is (will eventually be) the overall current draw of the running AC unit. Before you go any further, calculate the amp-hrs (ultimately the KWH) available in your fully charged battery bank and compare that with what your AC unit running demand is in KWH. You may be surprised about how little electricity is actually stored/available in your battery bank. I don't know what type of AC unit you have, but, my guess is that you will deplete your battery bank in under an hour. Remember, your battery bank voltage drops substantially as you drain the batteries and your inverter will only tolerate a given voltage drop (usually less than 2 volts) before it can no longer maintain the rated output current/voltage to run the AC. Chum lee
Chum lee 01/03/23 07:49am Tech Issues
RE: Tire Ply 14 or 16?

I have a 32 foot Class A that has a gross weight of 18,000 lbs I need to replace the tires due to age, it has 14 ply tires on it now...I am thinking about going to a 16 ply tire with the new tires. Has anyone done this, & if so what were your reason for doing this, also did it change the ride to a harder ride? Can of worms, . . . . soon to open. IMO, stick with the same payload rating. Every major tire manufacturer has their own proprietary blend of rubber compounds (tread and sidewall compounds can be different), tread patterns, and carcass construction which THEY feel is best for your application. That may differ from your opinion. Unless you have specific reasons for changing tire manufacturers, IMO you should stick with the same one. Remember, you are spending a lot of money, and, if you son't like your new tires, you are stuck with them for a while. Tire manufacturers also change tire compounds, construction, load ratings often so even if your new tires are the same as the ones they replaced, they may not actually be "the same." Chum lee
Chum lee 12/31/22 10:20am Class A Motorhomes
RE: What Chassis do I have

Google is your friend. Search: "2003 Ford F-53 CARB approved direct fit catalytic converter" I see at least 1 option, most of them are about $1,100 or more. OUCH! Sorry about that. Depending on how much damage was done when it was stolen, it might be better if the shop who installs the converter also buys it, and, has it shipped directly to their shop prior to installation. Chum lee
Chum lee 12/29/22 10:55am Class A Motorhomes
RE: A spare wheel might be harder to source than you think!

Most new motorhomes don't come with a spare tire. My first Class A motorhome did, a 1999 Bounder, and it was tucked up under the chassis. The disadvantage to not carrying a spare is a flat tire can ruin a vacation. My last Class A, a 2015 Forest River Georgetown 3218TS, used a common size tire, but the wheel (8" wide) had been discontinued. Many RVs use a 7" wide wheel, which didn't fit. It took a week to special order a spare. I highly recommend that you check the P/N on your wheel, and checking the availability, especially if you're not going to carry a spare. You might source one in a day, a week, or if you have a wheel like mine, someone just bought the only available one (ME!). Ford can eventually get you one, but those are over $1K, and with the difficulty getting parts, you might be stuck somewhere for far longer than you intended. As someone who worked in the parts department at a Ford Dealer, I can tell you that you are exactly correct and you give good advice. Ford Motor home chassis are handled differently than standard Ford trucks because the production quantity is lower. The GVWR is so much higher which often requires special wheels(diameter, offset, width, gauge, bolt pattern), lugs, lug nuts, brakes, axles, springs, etc.. Because of the above, they are often a special order part and not in stock. It doesn't help that Ford rarely sells partial chassis products direct to the consumer. They sell a partial assembly to a fabricator who finishes the chassis/coach and rarely keeps Ford OEM chassis (suspension) parts in stock. Chum lee
Chum lee 12/28/22 10:07am General RVing Issues
RE: Feedback on $50 Onan carbs on Amazon?

There are actually two different topics here. Carburetors very rarely "wear out". Finding competent service for them is difficult at best. Matt Half of what you say is true. (I'm 69 years old) My dad owned a 66 Mercedes 250S with 2-2 barrel split shaft Zenith carbs. After about 60,000 miles, the throttle shafts wore down creating a vacuum leak and the car would not idle because too much air leaked past the worn throttle shafts causing a lean condition at idle. The only fixes: replace the carbs ($$$$$) Have a machinist bore out the worn shafts, install bushings and "o" rings, . . . problem solved. My dad's "Mercedes Mechanic" would fix the problem by pumping grease into the worn shafts. That would work until I drove the car at over 100mph (heating it up) and the grease would melt. Problem returned. My dad always knew. Chum lee
Chum lee 12/24/22 01:37pm General RVing Issues
RE: Suggestions for using "wasted" solar power?

An ozone generator/air filter/fan can discourage pests (rodents, insects, etc.) and minimize mold from growing inside your MH. It will help reduce that musty smell that forms after several months of storage. It won't kill mold once formed, but, it will reduce the associated smell. Many smaller ozone units have well under 100 watt electrical load. People have reported that ozone can cause certain plastics like PVC, ABS, vinyl, etc., to become brittle and degrade prematurely. Delicate electronics can also be adversely effected. Read any warning labels before you decide. Chum lee
Chum lee 12/07/22 08:55am Tech Issues
RE: Goodnight Irene, the party's over.

No news here. (or rocket science) In my entire lifetime, (now approaching 70 years) every time the price of fuel spikes or the availability becomes questionable, the sale and value of fuel guzzlers plummets. I don't need industry experts to tell me that. Eventually the market always adjusts. The question is . . . when, . . . , and, . . . can you wait it out? Chum lee
Chum lee 11/26/22 05:56am General RVing Issues
RE: Coachmen Santara Capacities

If you still aren't having any luck, you could try searching for a similar used model "FOR SALE" at various popular internet sites like Ebay, Craigslist, rvtrader, pplmotorhomes or anywhere used motorhomes are bought and sold. Often, if you find a well documented ad, the seller will list many of the quantities in their description. As previously stated, these quantities may be less than accurate, but, it's place to start. If you are lucky, someone may have the original sales brochure still in their packet of manuals that came with the MH. Chum lee
Chum lee 11/17/22 09:05am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refill small propane cylinder

Quite possibly a dumb question but bear with me. We recently bought a Mr Heater propane heater and a 5' adapter hose to connect a 20# cylinder to it. After getting it back to the RV (fulltimers), I read the instructions which stated not to hook up a 20# cylinder indoors. Is this a CYA on their part or is it really dangerous to have the heater and 20# cylinder inside our RV. We wanted to run the Mr Heater overnight as they are much more efficient that the LP furnace and the 1 pound disposables only last 4.5 hours on the low setting. By the way, years ago we had a Mr Heater Big Buddy in a 43' diesel pusher. I put a T in the gas line to the oven/stove and ran a hose to the Mr Heater. Never had an issue. YES! It is DEFINITELY CYA, and also an attempt to minimize the chance that you BBQ yours. From numerous widely published sources: "All propane tanks, including the cylinders you use for your BBQ grill, are required by law to have pressure relief devices to allow for the release of excess pressure in the tank. A safety relief valve is there to protect your propane tank from rupturing if excess pressure builds up inside the tank." Chum lee
Chum lee 10/27/22 05:12pm Tech Issues
RE: Refill small propane cylinder

My home BBQ came new with a small propane tank like the one shown by the OP. I think it was a 10# tank. The closest propane filling station to me had a $15.00 minimum charge to fill any propane tank. Since the next larger size (probably 20#) would easily mount in the BBQ, that's what is there now. In my travels, I've found very few propane filling stations that have a minimum fill charge, but, . . . . some do. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/27/22 07:05am Tech Issues
RE: Bedding Brakes

IMO, bedding new brake pads/rotors is a good practice but usually not necessary provided the technician who replaced the pads/rotors actually drives the vehicle a few hundred feet after servicing it. For those who do not understand how disc/drum brakes work: In modern days, most brakes are self adjusting, but, do require the first initial few pumps to adjust themselves to their respective mating surfaces by filling the caliper pistons (with brake fluid) to the correct amount. The new wear surfaces are also initially very porous (irregularities) and may have contamination on them from the repair process. The first driver may not be aware of this and be surprised when the first few pedal pumps go to the floor before they get any braking action. The pedal usually pumps up (the brakes adjust themselves) very quickly. To get full braking action, it usually requires a few aggressive stops. That's what brake bedding does. Driving moderately will do the same thing after a few miles. IME, it's those who EXPECT new brakes to work perfectly the first time who end up rear ending someone. Chum lee What you're describing has literally nothing to do with bedding in new brakes... You are correct. For high performance brake bedding techniques, FOLLOW THE BRAKE BEDDING INSTRUCTIONS OF THE MANUFACTURER. In my initial statement, I said, "USUALLY." We're talking motorhomes here, not high performance/race cars. If you are putting cross drilled and/or slotted rotors with metallic, ceramic, or carbon fiber pads on your motorhome, then follow the bedding instructions of the manufacturer, if any. For run of the mill OEM pads and rotors on a motorhome, unless the manufacturer specifically says otherwise, I stand by what I said. Chum lee
Chum lee 10/10/22 03:17pm Tech Issues
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