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RE: Slideouts on a ClassC: How many?
Nice photo and overlays. They explain a lot, visually. It's important to understand that every pound you add behind the rear axle (especially at the rear of the motor home) widens the area you call "load on the rear axle" and narrows the area you call "load on the front axle."
I know it's an extreme case, but, think about this. If you added enough people standing on your rear bumper, at some point, you could actually lift the front wheels/axle off the ground through leverage. Front wheels without enough weight on them don't tend to steer or brake well, especially in rain and snow.
Motor home manufacturers are supposed to understand this when a vehicle is in the design phase, but, IMO, sometimes they clearly don't. What drives out the factory door isn't what the initial designers intended. They sell well though!
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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07/03/23 12:10pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Slideouts on a ClassC: How many?
IMO, slide outs provide that little bit of extra isle/living space which can be a HUGE benefit if two or more people (especially if they are of larger frame or mobility impaired) regularly use the motor home. But, they have their detractors too. They add expense, weight, mechanical complexity, reduce stability, and add numerous potential sources for water/wind/thermal leaks. Some floor plans are unusable unless the slides are (at least partially) extended. All things to consider.
Like jacks, in my travels I have seen numerous people who were "dead in the water" because they can't get one or more of the slides to retract just prior to departure from a campground in the middle of nowhere. But hey, slides are a popular option. Whatever floats yer boat.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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07/02/23 08:11am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Replacing the house batteries...
Nice job! Bet you are glad to have that behind you. One note: Make sure those flat head machine screws that hold the sliding shelf down to the track (in the back behind the batteries) don't contact, or come close to the battery cases. With all the bouncing around while driving, IMO, it wouldn't take long to wear a small hole into the bottom/side of your new battery cases.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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06/29/23 10:04am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: What's this thing really worth?
I'm kinda looking for a motorhome, and been looking for good cheap Class C with a lot of RV for the dollar. 2004 Hurricane Class A with V10. RV has 17k miles and looks totally like new inside. Stored outside, so the exterior has some sun UV damage to the decals and paint. Tires are brand new but date coded 10/17. I found two small areas on roof where it has leaked in the past and has some rotted wood about 12"x24", but not currently leaking. Not too worried about the leak. I know this is a very low end coach, and I know the reputation of the Hurricane line. Just want to make an real offer based on value. Thanks in advance for any advice.
You haven't stated the asking price, or what you are willing to pay. What is the vehicle length? Does the vehicle have slides, jacks? What size generator? What other significant options that might interest you. (upgraded trailer hitch, wheels/tires, solar, AC, upgraded interior, satellite dish, etc.) You stated that this is a "low end" model. IMO, this vehicle is right at the age that will be needing MAJOR investments to keep it running reliably. Refrigerator, roof, tires, suspension, paint, fluids, filters, under hood/body soft parts, pumps, valves, wiring, cabinetry, appliances, batteries, plastic body parts, etc. If you are handy, have time/space/tools/aptitude/patience to work on it yourself, it could be a good deal. (I don't mean to be non empathetic to the current owners situation) But, if you are looking for a trouble free economical motor home, this probably isn't it. Without seeing it, I'm thinking well under $10,000.
I'm NOT being snarky here, only trying to be helpful, but, if you want to see what you're potentially in for, go to YouTube and search for "Shot's Life Grady White $10 Boat" (no affiliation)
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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06/26/23 06:49pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Generator Camp Security
Definitely a good idea to compare a construction site to a RV park. From reading these posts it's apparent that theft is
rife in RV parks and campgrounds, but it seems there's little, if any, actual reports of it. FUD. Keep the fear rolling.
Well, . . . I disagree. I think it's a good comparison. (In the ways I see relevant) People you don't know, changing regularly. If you don't think theft abounds, IMO, . . . it's just because it hasn't happened to you, . . . yet. Cancer, heart attacks, plane crashes, car accidents, earthquakes, tsunami's, tornadoes, hurricanes, floods, building collapses, random shootings, unibombers, your 15 year old impregnated heroin addicted daughter, etc., etc., etc. Watch the news. They all parade people who can't believe, "IT FINALLY HAPPENED TO ME."
And, . . . no, . . . I'm not afraid, and I don't preach gloom and doom, disaster, conspiracy theories, or any of that ****. Awareness is the key. Enough said.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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06/18/23 09:49am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Generator Camp Security
IMO, leaving ANYTHING of high value which is easily transportable, visible, . . . is just too tempting to those in need. My thoughts are, . . . . out of sight, . . . . out of mind. Thieve's know that the RV communities are a transient bunch, and, there's a good chance your current neighbors don't know you. Do you know them? Probably not. (at least, not very well) Opportunity abounds.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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06/15/23 07:43pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: House batterys
IMO, whether you have GC-15 or GC-2 6 volt wet batteries, IF you are adding more than about 12-16 OUNCES of distilled water to each battery to top it off at any one time, chances are that at some point, the top of the plates are/were dry and they are cooked. If your battery charger is showing that you have a shorted cell and the batteries won't hold a charge, well, . . . . that's just more bad news. Please don't shoot the messenger.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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06/07/23 10:23am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Roof Opinions Please
The biggest question: "Does it leak?" If so, find the leak(s) and fix them, . . . now. It's normal to scrape off/replace cracked sealant every few years. Depending on the original roof material, once cleaned, there are numerous coatings that can be applied to your existing roof to extend the life and improve the appearance. Youtube/Google are your friends.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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05/30/23 07:13am |
Tech Issues
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RE: motorhome pricing
Thanks to all that replied. I decided not to buy this motorhome based on price. He actually had it listed for 45,0000. Wouldn't budge off of 28,0000
I'm not saying this is the case here, but, unfortunately, IME, a lot of sellers think their ageing "BABY" is worth a lot more than it is. Many sellers are upside down in their financing and want to sell their baby for what will (at least) pay off the balance of their loan. That's just another hidden expense of owning a motorhome and NOT your problem. (at least not right now) It's a buyers market right now. There are other fish in the sea!
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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05/29/23 10:18am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Roosevelt Lake {NE of Phoenix} is full...
Nice pics. Thanks for posting. Good to know that AZ and SoCal will have plenty of water for at least another year. I'd really like to see Lake Powell and Lake Mead water levels come up though. We'll see as this years snow pack melts. As of today, both lakes are still about 150' to 170' below full pool.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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05/26/23 07:53pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Class A Motorhome Gasser
The 2006 Ford should be the 2nd generation V-10 (3 valve engine with 315 HP) coupled to the 5R110W five speed automatic/overdrive transmission. It has improved head design that doesn't tend to blow spark plugs. It should have 10 lug wheels, not 8. That's a good thing. It is possible that the chassis is NOT a 2006 model year so it's IMPORTANT to confirm that before you buy if you choose the Ford.
At that age, check the roof condition, in person. Look for water leaks. Seriously deduct your offer if you find ANYTHING wrong with the roof or exterior walls. (leaks, bubbles, delaminations, etc.)
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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05/25/23 09:25am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fuel pump
^^^^
I would estimate between $600 to $1,000 US dlls. (possibly more) depending on how much of a hurry you are in and if your fuel tank is currently full. (of debris in addition to gasoline) Right now, there are lot of aftermarket (non-OEM quality) fuel pump/sending units out there in the $50 range. Be careful with those. I would insist on OEM quality because of the general inconvenience of re-replacing the pump/sender assembly if you get a poor quality unit and it fails prematurely.
Chum lee
P.S.: The fuel pump/sending unit you want is manufactured by Motorcraft #BU9Z-9H307A and costs over $300 on a good day. Figure about 4 hours labor (minimum) at your local going rate. ($125-$200/hr)
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Chum lee
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05/21/23 10:00am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: oil filter?
New to me 2021 Sunseeker Classic on an E 450 Ford Chassis. This unit has the Ford "Godzilla" V8 engine. It is getting close to the time to change the oil and filter. Anyone know the filter number for this engine? I use the combination synthetic and petroleum oil blend!
Thanks,
Bandaid
Please explain why you care about the part number for the oil filter. IMO, oil filters are one of the most common, easily cross referenced maintenance items for all vehicles, and, they are readily available. You don't need to know the part number. Year, make, model, engine size, (which you already have) . . . . bingo, there ya go.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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05/16/23 08:41am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Generator dB rating
Another thing to consider is the "relative quiet" of your generator. For example, if you measure the relative ambient background dB before you start your generator and it's quite high, for example, you are at the beach, an airshow, a NASCAR event infield, or near a major highway, your generator may seem very quiet. But if you are at a place like Chaco Canyon where at night you can hear rabbits scampering about 100' away, (read: dead quiet) even the quietest generator can seem obnoxious.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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05/15/23 06:23pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: What type of oil to put in my 1976 dodge F40 sportman
If original, your MH may have either a 360 cubic inch or a 440 cubic inch V-8 gas engine, which, by now, probably consumes some oil between changes. The oil you select primarily depends on the regular ambient operating temperature and the wear condition of the engine.
Below freezing: 10W-40
Freezing to +- 80F: 15W-40
Desert conditions: 20W-50 (hot all the time)
Use oil that has an API rating of "SN." For older engines that consume oil, I've found that using an oil like Chevron DELO 400 15W-40, or, Shell Rotella T 15W-40 are good values and reduce oil consumption, if that is an issue.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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05/10/23 11:01am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: What is this switch?
Rather than speculate, why not climb underneath the RV and see what's attached to the other side of the switch?
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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05/10/23 10:31am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Observations - Local RV Dealer.
nothing to do with rv BUT your talking price. I just came from a metal supplier you can buy steel in different size. quarter inch by 8in x10 flat stock aluminum only $76. thanks to ?
1. Correct. It has nothing to do with RVing
2. OK, we give up . . . thanks to....?
Dylan Mulvaney? (just a guess)
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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04/30/23 08:37am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: How long does a P32 radiator last?
A lot depends on how well the vehicle is maintained. (using the correct coolant at the proper % and changing it on schedule) If original, your vehicle has a heavy duty truck radiator installed which is generally good until the day it's not good, which depends on the above. If mine, I would keep a sharp eye on the radiator, belts, hoses, (especially the upper radiator hose) water pump seal, fan clutch, and the coolant expansion tank (which tends to crack) at +-15 years and beyond.
Although it does happen, cooling system components rarely fail catastrophically without warning. If you see/hear/smell leaks, bulging, cracks, grinding, squealing, overtemps or variability on the temp gauge, STOP IMMEDIATELY, and figure out why. IMO, it would be a good idea to source, price, and check the availability of the major components now so that you don't get blindsided in the near future.
To get an idea of the condition inside your radiator, look through the open cap and at the opaque plastic walls of the coolant expansion tank. If the inside of the tank is coated with rust, scum, and other lovely unmentionables, chances are your radiator is too.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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04/28/23 09:45am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Power Steps - Lippert - Grinding at Retract?
Correct, the gear does not come individually. It comes with the 3 cushions.
Gear
Richard
Thanks. That is a alternate source. Not Kwikee(LCI). Was not available a few years ago. For $16, safe bet to try. Doug
Yes. When I repaired my 1999 Series 32 steps that had similar issues (with an upgrade kit) in 2015, that gear was not available, and, believe me, I looked. It wouldn't have helped me anyway because the large die cast metal reduction gear inside the main gearbox is what exploded on mine. I do mean exploded. It was in five pieces inside the gearbox and the steps swung freely in the air. They would not extend or retract fully.
IMO, if your broken Kwikee stairs are +15 years old, replacing one gear in the drive train makes as much sense as replacing 1 broken link in an old worn out bike chain.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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04/26/23 09:21am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Manifold Replacements
So, . . . what year is this Ford V-10/MH? What is the GVWR? What is the actual operating weight? What is the length? Do you tow? What is your normal driving speed? Do you use 87 octane(min) fuel? Have you modified the ECU/engine/transmission/exhaust/driveline in any way?
Just a few questions before Ford gets sent to the gallows. (again)
Chum lee
Are you feeling ok?
Sure. Never better. Clearly, you are approaching this issue from the grease pit side of things. (Where I have spent many hours as well) I'm approaching it from the engineering side of things where I have also spent many hours.
Cheers! Go ahead, . . . . repair the damage. My approach is to, . . . . solve the problem first. Then, . . . . fix the damage. If you just fix the damage without solving the problem, IMO, you're just kicking the can down the road. (and putting a few $$$$ in your pocket)
Chum lee
Huh?
Dude needs a repair and is asking if the price is ok….no angle to take. Neither he nor I nor you are going to re-engineer his exhaust manifolds.
This is EXACTLY the response I would expect from you. Expect no further reply.
Chum lee
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Chum lee
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04/23/23 10:06am |
General RVing Issues
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