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 > Your search for posts made by 'DrewE' found 630 matches.

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RE: 34 ft 89 winnebago chieftain

While tank sensors can be finicky, the fresh water one is usually the least troublesome. Check that all the little wires to the probes in the side of the tank are properly attached and unbroken. (That, of course, requires access to the side of the tank--which isn't always the easiest to get.) Some motorhomes do have little clearance and a quite poor departure angle. However, it does sound as though you may have a broken or weak spring. I second the advice to get it checked out by a truck spring and chassis shop. Particularly with leaf springs, it's not especially uncommon to have a partial break (one or more leaves broken) that is not immediately obvious due to being hidden in the middle of everything. Bad shocks will not generally result in a low ride height as they do not support the weight (to any great extent, if at all). Air helper springs are a nice upgrade, to be certain, but of course are not a suitable replacement for a broken spring.
DrewE 07/20/21 02:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Loss of power when driving

Since the check engine light came on, I'd think the first order of business would be to see what code was set. That may help with diagnosing the problem. One thing to check is the mass airflow sensor, if your engine has one. They sometimes get dirty and cause stumbling upon application of the throttle (among other symptoms). A general lack of power can be caused by a dirty engine air filter or some other obstruction in the air inlet; with modern computerized engines, those things don't tend to cause other obvious effects--they just have the same net effect as limiting the throttle to not open fully.
DrewE 07/19/21 09:50pm Tech Issues
RE: Input on Selling RV

For sale (and wanted to buy) posts are not permitted on this site, so trying to sell it here is a non-starter. For what it's worth, I found my motorhome via a craigslist ad. It's not particularly an unusual make or model.
DrewE 07/19/21 06:58pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Shower hose fittings problem

Can you maybe put in more washers or a thicker washer to take up the extra space?
DrewE 07/19/21 01:20pm Tech Issues
RE: MN changing to EZ-Pass

New York State Thruway is now electronic and if you don't have an EZ Pass they bill you by mail. Don't know what the surcharge is for that, but I'm sure there is one. Having personal experience with that, I can report that there is a $2.00 per bill toll administration surcharge, and of course the toll rates themselves are the higher "cash" rate vs. the lower EZ-Pass rate. $2.00 probably is about right for covering the costs of printing and mailing bills and processing the payments that are received; I doubt they are making any real profit on the toll-by-mail surcharge. On the other hand, when there were actual people collecting the tolls in toll booths, there never was a separate surcharge to cover their wages and other expenses related to the process of toll collection, so having an administrative surcharge at all here seems a bit excessive.
DrewE 07/19/21 10:35am General RVing Issues
RE: 2009 Holiday Rambler Class C Cab connection to body

Typically there are screws that go from the cab to the adjacent house body panels, probably hidden behind the interior headliner/trim material. The bunk board is often attached to the cab in a similar way. Sometimes these screws can work loose slightly over time leading to squeaks. I don't know for certain that Holiday Rambler did things in typical fashion here.
DrewE 07/18/21 05:33pm Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Road restrictions on our route?

Those are commonly used secondary routes for truckers. There are no restrictions for motorhomes on them. There are a few hills and curves, but it's all quite workable for most any vehicle and certainly a small class C motorhome. (You might be a bit slow on some of the hills, but I assume you're somewhat used to that already.) I don't know specifically of current construction, etc. concerns but would not expect significant problems, and for sure there would be reasonable detours suitable for large vehicles as needed. A hint: when going from I-87 to I-90, pay attention to keep to the righthand lane. The righthand of the two lanes that exit for I-90 is also a merge lane from the previous interchange, and pretty soon after the exit from I-87 this righthand lane has the I-90 West entrance split off from it (and both exit lanes continuing on for I-90 East). The signs don't give a whole lot of warning for the I-90 West lane specifically, and merging over quickly can be tricky if there's much traffic.
DrewE 07/18/21 05:30pm Roads and Routes
RE: Heated hose

As with the others, there's no need for a heated hose if you fill the onboard water tank and then disconnect the hose. A heated hose is more useful/necessary if full-timing in freezing locales where it would otherwise mean a great many connections and disconnections. (The water connection must likewise be heated up to the spigot, something that is not generally done for places that don't cater to winter seasonal camping. It's a lot easier and less expensive to install frost-free hydrants where the actual valve is below the frost line and actuated by a long pushrod from the hose connection above ground--and such frost-free hydrants will freeze in due time if left turned on and filled with water that isn't flowing.) You may be limited in where you can camp based on how winter capable your RV is. If the tanks and piping are not heated (either with separate heaters or by being enclosed somewhere within the heated, insulated envelope of the RV), you won't be able to use the water system anyplace where it's below freezing more than a relatively brief overnight dip in temperatures when the daily temperatures are above freezing. It's also generally true that open campgrounds in wintery areas are none too common.
DrewE 07/18/21 11:14am Beginning RVing
RE: 2008 Holiday Rambler Augusta fresh water pump locatio

You might be able to locate the pump, at least in a general sense, by sound when it's running. As has been mentioned, they're usually not too far removed from the fresh water tank.
DrewE 07/18/21 11:04am Class C Motorhomes
RE: MN changing to EZ-Pass

Apparently they don't have any toll roads, per se, but some HOV/Express lanes that carry tolls at certain time periods for non-HOV use, and a couple toll bridges.
DrewE 07/17/21 10:42am General RVing Issues
RE: How best to improve a primitive RV site to rent it out?

Make sure you check carefully on all the legalities and requirements and limitations for camping on the land. At least here in Vermont there are a fair few specific requirements at the state level, which vary some based on length of time staying, and how many sites are involved, and so forth; and local towns can impose additional requirements via zoning laws, etc. You may find that you legally must have some approved sewer system (not just a vault toilet) for long-term stays, or that camping for more than two weeks is forbidden, or any number of other unfortunate regulations that basically make your idea a non-starter. As for what I would consider necessary for a rustic RV campsite, I would expect to find a semi-level place for my motorhome, a picnic table, and a fire ring or fireplace. The latter need not be anything fancy; a simple ring of stones in a safe place would suffice. For a seasonal campsite (one that is or could reasonably be occupied for the whole season), water and electricity and sewer hookups are pretty much essential. It sounds like you're more hoping for a seasonal lease on a weekend or short-term stay campsite; I kind of suspect that may be a hard sell for most people, though you really only need to find a few who are interested enough to fill a few sites. In an RV, a pit or vault toilet is not very useful. It's not suitable for dumping the RV tanks, and the value in having it available to use instead of the indoor plumbing in the RV is marginal at best, particularly compared with the expense of building and maintaining one that the government likes. My gut feeling is that the scheme is not practical. I really would like to be wrong, but....
DrewE 07/16/21 11:46pm Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Little fans in skylight

Assuming the motor is still okay, you probably can find a suitable fan blade with a bit of searching online. Here is one possibility from American Science and Surplus that may or may not be suitable. (If appropriate in size and bore, it would make the most sense to seek out other nifty stuff from them to get at the same time as the postage and handling on just the fan blades would be much more than they cost--assuming you aren't in the general vicinity of their retail stores). Here's a different one from Electronic Goldmine. If both the motor and blade are bad, I'd look for a largeish diameter 12V muffin fan, of which there are zillions of options available, and figure out some way of mounting it in place. It shouldn't be too difficult to accomplish.
DrewE 07/16/21 11:18pm Tech Issues
RE: RV PARK I75

I'm not sure I understand your question perfectly: are you looking for a site near Atlanta (north or south of the city), or just one south of the city? In the first case, Red Top Mountain State Park looks to me like a good possibility for an overnight stay, about 35-40 miles from the middle of Atlanta and with easy access to the interstate. I haven't been there personally.
DrewE 07/16/21 08:59am RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Best route from Morgantown, WV to Blackwater Falls SP

Numbered state highways are nearly always decent paved roads, in my experience, suitable for most any vehicle. There are a few exceptions here and there, of course. I don't have personal experience with these particular roads; but I would not give a second thought to planning to travel over them with my class C. With a few spot checks in Google maps street view mode, they look like ordinary decent two-lane paved roads, with some areas of rather nice looking scenery and some towns that might require one to slow down a bit.
DrewE 07/15/21 11:01am Roads and Routes
RE: Waste/Sewage System

You don't actually have to use any chemicals in an RV tank, though they can be mighty helpful on cutting down on odors under some circumstances. I wouldn't worry too much about upsetting the balance in a septic tank from RV holding tank treatment chemicals used in proper moderation. Septic systems see all sorts of household chemicals all the time, due to cleaning bathrooms, washing dishes, and other household tasks, and generally that causes no problems for them if they're properly designed and working correctly. Since not a few dump stations feed into (large) septic systems at RV parks, any tank treatment will be at least reasonably safe for them.
DrewE 07/15/21 10:53am Tech Issues
RE: Filling dually tires

I find the chucks with the inner wheel end straight on rather than angled are more convenient than those with both angled. I suppose that may well vary with the specific wheel design you have. Either one can work, but might require more or less fiddling around to get a good seal, possibly including reaching around between the tires with the other hand to guide the chuck and valve stem into alignment. Air-through valve covers are a big help; besides not having to unscrew the valve cover (and you really ought to use some sort of a valve cover), they effectively extend the stem a little bit and that little bit helps. I have Alligator brand ones and they seem very well made.
DrewE 07/15/21 10:46am Tech Issues
RE: learning about rving

A few general suggestions: 1. Consider renting a motorhome for a few days or a week before purchasing one. You'll learn a fair bit about what it's like to use and drive one, and be better able to evaluate what features, floorplans, etc. would work for you, and be a leg up on understanding the systems of an RV. 2. I would generally not recommend buying new for your first RV. I'm not sure I'd buy new for any RV, personally, since the initial depreciation is pretty high and more often than there should be there are a bunch of--hopefully minor--initial defects to work through with the dealer/manufacturer. Let someone else take the financial hit and annoyance. 3. When it comes time to look at specific models to maybe buy, I suggest taking time to do a "dry run" of as many daily activities as you can--preferably physically, but at least in your mind. Go through the motions of dressing or undressing, cooking a meal, watching TV, reading a book, using the bathroom and shower, etc., and give thought to where things might be stored and whether you'll be forever bumping into a cabinet and so forth. Is there a good place for a trash can? a laundry bag or basket? Can you access the bathroom or fridge after pulling off the road without needing to deploy a slide? Is there room for your cutlery, your dishes, your coffee percolator, and your saucepans?
DrewE 07/14/21 06:49pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: What would YOU do???

I don't think I would have done anything. You made your reservation in Canadian dollars (albeit ones converted from US dollars), and got your refund in Canadian dollars (which were converted back into US dollars). The exchange rate variations have essentially nothing to do with the actual transaction with the cruise line. Similarly, if the exchange rate had changed not in my favor, I'd maybe grumble but would neither blame nor ask for special dispensation from the cruise line. That's just one of the nuances of international transactions.
DrewE 07/13/21 01:24pm Around the Campfire
RE: Mystery Switch

I agree, it is most likely to switch on the heat for the rearview mirrors. It isn't mentioned in the Ford manual because the mirrors (and their controls) are not Ford products, but e.g. Velvac or other aftermarket mirrors. The stock Ford mirrors generally aren't used because they don't extend far enough out from the cab for good visibility alongside an RV body, I assume.
DrewE 07/12/21 11:35pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Manuals/Build Info: 1994 Travelaire TC240 on E350 Chassis?

Often such information is not available (or at least very, very hard to come by) for RVs even if the manufacturer is still in business. Looking and poking around is often the best or only way to figure things out. Generally, the individual systems are not too overly complex if you look at them in isolation from each other. (If you try to understand everything together all at the same time, as a single system, it can be very daunting indeed; so I recommend approaching things as individual systems and pieces.) If you need chassis information, that should be available from Ford or the usual other companies (Chiltons, Haynes, etc.). Since the E series vans were very popular, there are also lots of YouTube videos, forum posts, and so forth online about most any chassis maintenance thing you'd run into that can be found with a bit of searching. Finding service documentation on individual appliances and other third-party bits is often not too hard once you get the maker, model number, etc. from the thing in question.
DrewE 07/11/21 08:13pm Class C Motorhomes
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