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 > Your search for posts made by 'DrewE' found 623 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Help in Purchasing Class A Motorhome

Forest River products are almost as bad as Thor products, and that's really bad. Forest River and Thor Industries (including all their subsidiaries) together account for a little more than 80% of the North American RV industry.
DrewE 07/06/20 11:29pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: F53 Loses Power on Rough Roads

Check for a loose connection on something that might actually be shutting off the ignition momentarily which is causing your RPM drop. The ABS light probably is not related to the engine issue but could be from a loose sensor connection at one of your wheels. If the computer is losing power, the light could well be illuminating for the self-test/bulb test, similar to how it does when the key is first turned on. I'd guess they're both caused by the same loose connection.
DrewE 07/06/20 07:30pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Do any of the new TTs come with Surge Protectors?

Progressive dynamics seems to be the popular choice. Progressive Industries, not Progressive Dynamics. Progressive Dynamics makes well-regarded converters. Progressive Industries makes the EMS/surge protectors. Both are good products, but they're two entirely different companies with confusingly similar names.
DrewE 07/06/20 10:12am Tech Issues
RE: winching a trencher

How fast is the trenching operation? Would it be practical to just hook a chain up to a tractor (or lawn tractor) and put it in a low gear?
DrewE 07/06/20 10:07am Around the Campfire
RE: Co alarm

Some alarms are sensitive to low (12V system) voltage.
DrewE 07/06/20 08:19am Tech Issues
RE: Charge across 2 6V batteries is 11.78. Is that right?

The wizard light will stay steady until the batteries are (nearly) charged. As far as I have been able to work out, it goes to steady, and the corresponding 14.4V output setpoint, when the battery voltage drops below some value, and stays there until it has been at or near the setpoint voltage for a few hours. It then cycles to the lower setpoint voltages and corresponding flashing light signals. The lowest of these does bump the output to the higher voltage for 15 minutes every 24 hours, what they call desulfation mode. The actual output voltage may be less than the setpoint because of current and power limits, and generally will be when low batteries are receiving a charge. In short, the converter is behaving as designed, from what you have written.
DrewE 07/05/20 07:46pm Tech Issues
RE: Has anyone added an extra water tank to RV roof

It would affect the center of gravity some, raising it probably a couple or a few inches. Whether or not the roof structure would be safely able to carry the extra weight is a bigger concern; if it's a well-constructed RV, it ought to be able to, as it isn't enormously more than, say, a couple of air conditioners (the weight of which is less evenly distributed), but we all know that many RVs are not especially well-constructed. If you do install it, be sure the tank is oriented lenghtwise rather than across the RV. If it's crosswise and half full, the water will slosh back and forth from side to side and could definitely cause handling issues or at least annoyances. Weight shift front to back is rather less of a problem--though still may be noticeable. Weight shift can, of course, be avoided by travelling with the tank either full or empty (as opposed to something in between). All in all, I think a trailer mounted tank is a better idea (a "water buffalo" or something similar/smaller).
DrewE 07/03/20 06:10pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C vs Trailer for Cross country with family? Help

I appreciate all the input so far. How is it to travel with a family in a class C? Is it comfortable to sit behind a table with your seatbelt on for hours or sit sideways in a couch or is the cab of a truck better? Can you walk around while in motion? Use the microwave? It's certainly possible, in a physical sense, to walk around a class C motorhome while on the road. It isn't the safest thing to do, of course; a sudden stop or swerve can easily lead to a very nasty injury. Still, many people do decide to move around as needed to switch places, get a drink out of the fridge, use the bathroom, that sort of thing. (Obviously, not the driver!) Other people are not willing to do that. State laws vary a little on seat belt use requirements in motorhomes, for what that's worth; it isn't always the same rules as for passenger cars. Some people find that sitting sideways or facing rearwards tends to induce motion sickness. For most, it's not really a problem. The microwave could be used en route by running the generator. There is the risk of spillage, both in the microwave and when removing the hot items from it after they've been nuked. I think it wisest to stop before using the microwave, or indeed for most sorts of cooking. A crock pot safely stowed (maybe in the sink) may be an exception, as well as some things baked in the oven that won't create messy spills.
DrewE 07/03/20 09:27am Beginning RVing
RE: Class C vs Trailer for Cross country with family? Help

The motorhome is undoubtedly more conveinent for the actual traveling part; you have more ready access to snacks, the potty, travel activities, etc. There's also just generally a little more elbow room for the passengers. I'd really suggest staying the overnights at some sort of campground, rather than planning on using rest areas. The nights will be more restful when you don't have trucks coming and going and idling next to you, and you'll have access to hookups and/or a showerhouse, and some space to stretch the legs and maybe a swiming pool. Many states also have time restrictions on how long you can stay at a rest area (which are not always enforced), meaning that to be technically in the right you may be obligated to move halfway through the night. If it were me, I'd also probably plan an additional travel day, but of course you know your limits and what your family is comfortable with far better than I do.
DrewE 07/02/20 11:12pm Beginning RVing
RE: Bikes n ladders..

Any plans to relocate the stop, tail, turn signal, and backup lights? From the picture, it looks as though the (very nice) box is pretty effectively blocking them from view from many angles.
DrewE 07/01/20 06:29pm General RVing Issues
RE: Outside shower conversion to faucet?

A normal bathroom faucet would either not stick out far enough to be useful, or run afoul of the access door closing. There doesn't appear to really be enough room for a normal kitchen faucet with a swinging spout. Maybe you could simply put a kitchen faucet spray head on in place of the shower head. At least some ought to have the same threads, I'd guess; shower heads normally use standard 1/2" NPT if memory serves.
DrewE 06/30/20 11:50pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Shore Power 12V to vehicle

In general, it should not be a problem. Basically, the higher voltage source "wins" and supplies power, while the other just kind of sits there. If the converter is not supplying a proper voltage (which would apply to both the camper and the vehicle), then that's a problem that needs fixing in any case. If it's the original converter, it would probably be money well spent to upgrade/replace it in any case as it's likely a single-stage ferroresonant unit. Those sorts of converters do provide a reasonably regulated output--not perfect, but good enough--provided they are in proper working order and the incoming power line AC frequency is correct, which it pretty much always will be for utility power but might not be with a generator. They are, however, not super efficient and heavy and sometimes hum annoyingly. A bigger concern for me would be that, if not connected to shore power and hence without the converter operating, the camper's electric usage could discharge both the camper's battery and the truck battery, leaving you stranded with no power and no way to start your truck. Adding a relay to shut off the trailer charge line when the engine isn't running is the obvious solution to that problem.
DrewE 06/30/20 12:12pm Tech Issues
RE: Water Pump Switch(s) Wiring guidance

It's the same basic idea as a 3 way switch for a light in a house that's controlled from two (or more) switches. The two switches are both SPDT switches--single pole, double throw. One of the switches connects the common terminal to power, and then the other two terminals go to two wires to the other switch. That switch has the common terminal connected to the pump. The ground from the pump to the system ground completes the circuit. If both swtiches are set to the same one of the two wires between them, the circuit is on and power flows to the pump. Flipping either switch will have them connected to different wires and open the circuit; and then flipping the other one (or filipping the first one back) will again turn the circuit back on. If you want to add one or more additional switches, you put them in between the existing switches (electrically speaking). These additional switches need to be DPDT swtiches--double pole, double throw--and wired criss-crossed so as to either reverse the two wires or not depending on how they are thrown. That's what the linked diagram was trying to show. If the monitor panel has a pilot light indicating the pump is on, then it's the switch that's wired to the pump, and the bathroom one is the one wired to the positive power supply (which may in turn come from...well, most anywhere, possibly including the monitor panel). The reason for this is that the pilot light is wired in parallel with the pump so it can illuminate when the pump is on.
DrewE 06/30/20 12:04pm Tech Issues
RE: Help with Long Term planning for Alaska

You'll see all different sorts of RVs in Alaska. Truck campers seem to be especially popular, and I can well understand the practicality of them there. Depending where you want to go, relativelyy small ones may be a little more practical. A 26' trailer shouldn't pose many particular problems, generally speaking. Of course, any setup has its advantages and disadvantages and limitations; there are a great many areas in Alaska, vast expanses indeed, that cannot be reached by road at all. If you're interested in traveling the Dalton highway, I would not suggest going with a brand-new RV. It's a rather grueling, sometimes rough trip for the vehicle. It's also one of the most beautiful roads I've ever been on, particularly in the vicinity of Atigun pass (but far from exclusively in that area). IMHO a towed vehicle with a motorhome is less of a necessity in Alaska than in many other areas. The only areas where RV parking is much of an issue are areas where there's public transit available.
DrewE 06/30/20 08:36am RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: I90 fuel islands in Massachusetts

You're only on I-90 for less than a hunderd miles in Massachusetts. Seems to me it shoudl be entirely practical to fuel after getting on I-295/I-495/I95, whichever route you're taking...or before entering Massachusetts...or perhaps both. I'd imagine the truck lanes would be perfectly fine for a diesel pickup pulling a trailer. I don't know if gasoline is available in them.
DrewE 06/30/20 08:16am General RVing Issues
RE: Small Class C with out tow car

One concern I do have with us taking our small Class C around to visit places is having to leave it parked too much off-level for long periods with it's absorption refrigerator turned on. The figures I've seen from the manufacturers are within 3 degrees front to back (the fridge's front and back) and six degrees side to side, if there's a specific recommendation rather than just "if you're comfortable using the RV." Three degrees is a noticeable incline; it's about a four to five inch height difference between the left and right wheels of the motorhome, or a five percent road grade. Most parking spaces are much closer to level than that.
DrewE 06/29/20 08:59pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: hauling trailer to Alaska

Thank you, lots of good info. Do most people who boondock run a generator? When I took my Alaska trip, I did not use the generator, generally speaking. It's worth noting that, with my class C motorhome, the house batteries charge completely with a day's driving and can then last for several days on a charge if a little bit of care is taken in electrical conservation. There's not a lot of need for using the inside lights in Alaska in the summer time, nor for air conditioning often in the evenings or nights. I don't recall hearing many generators running, as a rule, when camping in areas without electric hookups. There were times when I was glad to have the generator, though, mostly for the occasional microwaving of leftovers or for running my 120V compressor when a tire needed a bit of air to top it up.
DrewE 06/29/20 04:47pm RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: Decent inexpensive modified sine wave inverter

A laptop uses a brick so why would an Apple care if were MSW? As I understand it, the laptop itself doesn't--it's just getting DC power from the power brick--but the active power factor correction circuitry in some power bricks (and some other switchmode power supplies) can behave badly when the input waveform is not at all sinusoidal, as they try like mad to adjust their current consumption within an AC cycle to be sinusoidal even though the applied voltage is anything but sinusoidal. Supposedly (some) Apple power supplies are rather notorious for self-destruction under those circumstances. Most switching power supplies, for sure any older/cheaper ones without active power factor correction, are perfectly happy with MSW power.
DrewE 06/29/20 09:34am Tech Issues
RE: Too Much A Novice To Ask This On Electronics forum

Do be aware that bluetooth adds some noticeable latency to the audio, so mixing a bluetooth subwoofer with non-bluetooth speakers is almost certainly not going to work out very well (and might not be very readily done with many computer operating systems), and similarly separate bluetooth connections to various different speaker systems might be problematic.
DrewE 06/28/20 04:57pm Tech Issues
RE: RV fridge not getting cold on propane, but freezer works?

Since the fridge works on electric power, the cooling unit is functional, and so the problem must be something with the propane burner or associated bits. My guess is something needs cleaning or adjusting in the burner. The air conditioner problem is entirely unrelated. You have a broken air conditioner (or maybe a broken wire from the thermostat, but that's not too likely), but you already know that much.
DrewE 06/26/20 07:39pm Tech Issues
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