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 > Your search for posts made by 'DrewE' found 869 matches.

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RE: Help with a value please! Looking to purchase...

Maybe last year in 2018, or this year in 2019, Ford discontinued the E350 chassis because of it's limited production. The E450 comes now in all 3 wheel bases. The Ford web site lists the E350 cutaway as a 2019 model. It also lists both the E350 and E450 stripped chassis. If they're eliminating the E350, it would seem to be in the 2020 model year.
DrewE 09/16/19 08:40am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Dometic heater

Is the "Dometic heater" perchance a heat strip on the air conditioner? If it is, the fan needs to run for the heat to work.
DrewE 09/15/19 12:38pm Beginning RVing
RE: I got the shakes

That sure sounds like an out of balance wheel to me. One thing to check (far from the only possibility) is that the wheel balance weights are tightly attached and not shifting around. I've had some that were apparently not properly crimped on the rim and when they shift it's all sorts of annoyance.
DrewE 09/15/19 12:36pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Life is full of compromise...

I think Ford is upgrading the dash systems in the E series chassis this year or next year, so in a couple of years some of these sorts of things may start appearing--at least adaptive cruise control. Rear cross traffic presumably relies on a backup camera, which my not be integrated into many class C's (at least with the factory systems); similarly I don't know if the sensors needed for blind spot monitoring would be included. If you don't have convex mirrors, adding a stick-on one is a tremendous help in checking blind spots in ajacent lanes. The Ford E series is not generally at the cutting edge of vehicle technology; things take awhile to trickle down there. My '98 lacks a good bit of advanced vehicle technology, such as the dash mounted glove box and the digital odometer display, but it does get me where I want to go reliably and in reasonable comfort.
DrewE 09/14/19 10:57am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Help with a value please! Looking to purchase...

If you're happy with the price and the seller is happy with the price, then it's hard for me to say it's not a good price. Very much of the actual value of a used RV depends on its condition, which is pretty much ignored by the NADA numbers. Prices also vary quite a fair bit geographically; finding a decent used RV for $10K would be pretty hard in New England, from what I've seen. Well kept, practically no water damage, everything works properly...that's worth some money; and if your needs or wants are rather unusal and specific, you may have to pay more to get them met. Be extremely careful with your towing decisions. The diesel engine doesn't change the brakes, the frame (and frame extensions), the hitch, etc. I'm not really sure it even would do much better in general with towing than the V10, though it will be running at a lower speed and hence sound "better", or at least different. A fair few newer Ford class C's have 7500 pound tow ratings, by the way.
DrewE 09/14/19 10:50am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 1000 Islands NY to Burlington VT

The ferry certainly can accommodate your vehicle; they carry tractor traile trucks. I don't know offhand what the price would be, but it's quite possibly the quickest and easiest way; either that or the Grand Isle ferry (from right around Plattsburg). Sticking to roads, you get to choose between two bridges that are more or less equally far removed from Burlington: either from Rouses Point, NY, at the northern end of Lake Champlain, and thence either along US2 or over to US7 or I89; or else south at Chimney Point, then following VT 17 to VT 22A to US7 north to Burlington. The northern one is almost certainly more direct than the southern one for you. Any of these routes is reasonable for a motorhome. There is some bridge construction along US 2 which might cause some delays coming down that way from the Rouses Point bridge.
DrewE 09/12/19 08:51pm Roads and Routes
RE: apps

Just remember the (fake) GPS in your phone only works where there's cell service. Real GPS works anywhere. Modern phones all have real GPS chips for 911 location information, among other uses. Provided you have the map data the GPS app will be able to work without cell phone service. Whether or not the maps are stored on the phone (or need data via the cell phone system or wi-fi to fetch) is another question; Google maps, at least, lets one download map data for an area for offline usage quite easily.
DrewE 09/12/19 10:06am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Hot Water Heater Issue

I'd guess you have a blown 12V fuse. That may be due to a problem with the light or water heater, or possibly just from old age.
DrewE 09/11/19 02:38pm Tech Issues
RE: Rt 7 in Vermont?

Both US7 and US4 through Vermont are fine for any RV. Basically no road running east and west in Vermont is devoid of at lest some hills; that's just the way the land runs. Your proposed route is fine. Another decent route is I-87 to exit 20, then NY 149 to US4, VT 22A north to US 7, and I-189 to I-89 south to Montpelier and US2 across from there to I-93 etc. US2 does run basically parallel (and often side by side) to I-89 for that stretch, but the interstate is easier going. US 302 through the White Mountains is a pretty road, but the Kancamagus Highway (NH 112) is even prettier in my opinion and is suitable for RVs despite being somewhat hilly and curvy.
DrewE 09/11/19 09:18am Roads and Routes
RE: Onan Generator Cranking Amps

My 4KY uses about 100A, very roughly speaking, when cranking. The initial surge is somewhat higher. If it cranked well in the past, the wire size is presumably not the issue, but rather some poor connection somewhere. It may also be worth checking the starter motor to make sure all the brushes are properly functioning; I had to replace my generator starter a few years ago after it burned out, and discovered that for as long as I had owned it, during which time it was rather lethargic and marginal at starting the generator, one of the four brushes was not working properly and so the starter was only half working. Unlike many motors it has two sets of poles around the rotor and four brushes. Of course, it's entirely possible that your starter is a different design since it's a different generator.
DrewE 09/10/19 02:02pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fuel economy

I believe it's all about weight to horse power ratio. your V10 gas is working harder than my 8.3 diesel. we usually run light, coach empty weight is 27k, we usually load under 1000#, we don't tow heavy the jeep is only 4288# that brings us across the scales at a little over 32k. Holding tanks, plus fuel will vary A bigger difference than the power to weight ratio for fuel economy is the gas vs. diesel engine. Diesel is about 15% more dense than gasoline and, not at all coincidentally, has about 15% more energy per unit volume than gasoline. Weight has relatively little impact on fuel usage when cruising on a flat road, as it doesn't greatly affect the overall friction of the vehicle which is mostly air resistance at highway speeds. (Weight has a significantly higher impact when going up hills or in stop-and-go driving, of course).
DrewE 09/10/19 01:56pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: NEC 2020 & Receptacles

Thanks for the link. These changes, and indeed any code updates, only become binding as they are ratified by your state or local building codes. That said, GFCI protection is a very good idea regardless; they have a proven track record of saving lives. I'm a bit surprised (and disappointed) that the new requirements were not also applied to RV parks.
DrewE 09/10/19 09:13am Tech Issues
RE: Fairbanks-June or August/Sept

Many of the tourist-oriented things are closing down for the year around Labor Day. That's actually true throughout Alaska. Maybe that is a sizable concern, maybe not too much of one. Augustish was nice when I was in Fairbanks. A fair few years ago, in college, I visited a good friend who was then attending UAF (in Fairbanks) over Christmas and New Years. I would definitely recommend August over December; it's hard to actually see too much of Fairbanks in the winter since there's not much more than a few hours of twilight per day. It's also a good bit colder, of course.
DrewE 09/09/19 11:34pm RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: Best Solvent To Remove RV Window & Roof Caulk?

Depending on what is there (i.e. usually if it's not silicone), you may not need to remove every last particle of it before resealing, just any that's loose or excessive or generally in your way. I generally use mechanical methods such as the ubiquitous razor blade scraper.
DrewE 09/09/19 11:27pm Tech Issues
RE: Can you recommend me a high temperature tape?

Gorilla tape holds up quite well in my experience. I haven't specifically tried it in exceptionally high temperature areas, but for reasonable everyday temperatures in harsh conditions it holds up really well and doesn't get gooey. Gaffer's tape (used by theater people) would also work nicely and is somewhat similar, a little easier to remove. Another option that's definitely not breathable and definitely not white is aluminum foil duct tape. This isn't standard duck tape/duct tape, but rather aluminum foil with an adhesive on one side and is used for sealing heating ducts. If the metal is clean it will stick pretty well, and being foil it holds its shape when bent. It is handy stuff for a variety of uses, but probably not ideal for exactly what you're looking for.
DrewE 09/09/19 10:18am Tech Issues
RE: Using Dryer's NEMA 14-30 outlet for RV shore power

I don't agree with you. No reason why the 50 amp receptacle cannot be wired from a 30 amp circuit. I will concede IF you can point out the specific code section where this is stated. Typical residential duplex receptacles come in 15 and 20 amp configurations and are typically and legally used in both 15 and 20 amp circuits. See 210.20B(3): "Where connected to a branch circuit supplying two or more receptacles or outlets, receptacle ratings shall conform to the values listed in Table 210.20(B)(3) ....", followed by a few exceptions that would not apply. The table says that for 30A circuits, only 30A receptacles are permitted. (For 20A circuits, either 15 or 20A receptacles are permitted. For 15A circuits, though, 20A receptacles are not permitted.) I do agree that there is no immediate safety issue with putting a 50A receptacle on a 30A circuit; it's obviously more than capable of handling the current that it could carry. I also don't claim that the code is entirely self-evident or perfectly logical. Presumably the idea is to prevent excessive tripping of breakers or running the undersized circuit at the very edge of its capacity all the time or something similar (and maybe also to encourage the makers of equipment to provide appropriately sized power cords and plugs, rather than oversizing them for "convenience" or other reasons).
DrewE 09/08/19 01:15pm Tech Issues
RE: What do I need to start this?

Based on the first two pictures, I fear what you have is basically a collection of some parts that could be used in the building of another RV. The third and fourth pictures I think require access to your personal gmail account to view, which of course I do not have. In the first picture, the structure--not just the skin, but the actual framework--of the back of the motorhome looks compromised and perhaps unsafe. In the second, there is a whole lot of water damage to the cabover; it would need to be completely rebuilt, again possibly requiring repairs to or replacement of the basic framework as well as the walls, etc. In the end, it would come close to building a new class C motorhome on an old chassis, I suspect. If you carried through with this, you'd still have a thirty year old chassis to keep running (albeit a fairly reliable and well-documented and popular thirty year old chassis). This is not impossible to do, but it's a whole lot of work and requires some skills in a number of trades to pull off. It would probably be a lot quicker and easier to get some other vehicle in better shape and move/adapt the RV parts to it. Something like a school bus or a step van could maybe be a starting point...or an enclosed trailer if you don't mind a tow-behind. For most people, though, I think Bordercollie hit it on the head: get what you can for this, and look for something in better shape. It will likely be less money and definitely a lot less time spent in the end.
DrewE 09/08/19 12:51pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Using Dryer's NEMA 14-30 outlet for RV shore power

What you propose will work, and probably 99% of the time you won't even notice the 30 amp current limit per leg. You could even parallel the two outlets, just not using the dryer while the RV is plugged in. It won't meet code, of course, but it will work... Specifically, the only way this, with or without the switch, does not meet code is that 50A receptacles are not supposed to be installed on 30A circuits. Otherwise it's perfectly fine to have multiple receptacles on one circuit, generally speaking, and to switch them as deemed appropriate or necessary. It's no different than having more than one 15A receptacle on a single 15A circuit.
DrewE 09/07/19 07:21pm Tech Issues
RE: 12V circuit breakers in series?

I'd guess they are not the same current rating. The first one is the main one, and there are two higher current circuits connected to its output (via the lower lug of the upper breaker). The second one presumably has a lower rating and is for some other stuff. It may not be the cleanest way of doing things, but it's not entirely senseless in my estimation.
DrewE 09/07/19 07:06pm Tech Issues
RE: Breaker Panel Help Please

The last breaker, the unlabeled one, is for the converter. All the stuff you listed is powered by 12V systems. It sounds as though you don't have a battery connected; otherwise all that stuff would work from 12V power from the battery. Maybe the battery disconnect switch is turned off?
DrewE 09/07/19 04:31pm Tech Issues
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