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 > Your search for posts made by 'DrewE' found 626 matches.

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RE: Why are the Mr Heaters cheaper in price?

If working properly, either one should use about the same amount of propane for the same heat output, assuming both are unvented. It's the same basic chemical reactions taking place in either case; you're combining the propane with oxygen to produce water and carbon dioxide, the same basic thing as burning any hydrocarbon, and that releases the same amount of energy (i.e. heat) regardless of how exactly it's done.
DrewE 12/02/20 07:09pm Tech Issues
RE: New to us 2006 Winnebago

There are car cords available for laptops that can run from a lighter socket, without the need for a generator or inverter. I got a generic/universal one that comes with connectors for many different laptops from Amazon for about $30, and it works nicely for my ThinkPad.
DrewE 12/02/20 07:03pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Battery compartment connections

The only way to know for sure is to trace the wire back to whatever it connects to. Most common would probably be much as ndorder describes: it goes to the battery isolation (continuous duty) relay, the house battery disconnect (latching) relay, and the generator's 12V power connection. That said, there are many variations in the exact details.
DrewE 12/01/20 03:54pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Dump Station Observations

I always wondered why we even choose to stand in line - it's not like waiting to use the toilet. Plenty of dump stations between any campground and anyone's home, and a few hundred pounds won't change anyone's gas mileage. I know of none anywhere near my home. For me, the closest one not associated with a campground is about thirty miles away, or sixty miles round trip from my house, requiring an hour and a half and perhaps $20 in gas. I have not encountered plenty of dump stations in my travels between campgrounds and my house; rather, it seems to generally be few if any. Waiting in line for twenty minutes, if needed, seems like a pretty good option for me.
DrewE 12/01/20 10:11am General RVing Issues
RE: Quiet heater that doesn’t drain batteries ?

Produce moisture? Look at your front window and others when it is 32 outside and raining and furnaces run all night. Condensation on the windows just means the glass surface is cooler than the dew point of the air in the RV, which in turn generally means the humidity is at a reasonable indoor air level. The water vapor comes from people breathing and from cooking, not from the furnace, as the furnace is designed such that all the combustion gasses are vented outside (and all the combustion air comes from the outside), with a heat exchanger to transfer the heat to the air circulated around the inside of the RV.
DrewE 11/30/20 05:25pm General RVing Issues
RE: Quiet heater that doesn’t drain batteries ?

Some RV furnaces are quite noticeably louder than others. It may be practical to replace yours with a quieter model. Typically, all other things being equal, the physically larger furnaces (with around the same capacity) are quieter than physically small ones, since large fans are quieter moving a given quantity of air than small fans. There are many other variables, though--the exact style of fan, etc.
DrewE 11/30/20 09:28am General RVing Issues
RE: RVing in the winter

I don't think it will be a big problem; how cold you can reasonably go depends on the design of the motorhome. If you have enclosed tanks (typically with a furnace vent outlet in the enclosure), you can go a lot lower than the high 20's with the heat on. If the tanks and plumbing are exposed to view underneath, it's much less cold capable. I think most motorhomes have enclosed pipes at the least. The furnace does use a good bit of propane, but around 30 degrees outside it shouldn't need to work overly hard. Definitely keep an eye on the propane level and refill as needed. I could probably go a week or two under such conditions in my motorhome before needing refilling, and it doesn't have exceptional propane capacity or insulation. Be prepared for some draftiness and condensation on the windows. If you have an electric camp site (and I'd suggest that you look for them), running one or two space heaters, preferably on low, in the cool areas can help a lot with making things more comfortable and with reducing the propane consumption somewhat.
DrewE 11/30/20 09:24am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Caulking

For Dicor lap joint sealant, there's no need to get the old off, or certainly not off completely. If there's a considerable buildup, trim it down (carefully) with a razor blade or similar; then just clean it well and put a small quantity of fresh over, sealing it into the cracks. Four tubes of Dicor are probably enough to redo an entire roof from scratch. You definitely won't run out. Incidentally, most of the time the seal between the cabover section and the cab is actually made with a rubber gasket captured between the chassis roof and the bunk board or equivalent and held in with the screws that mount the two together, usually a bunch of fairly small screws driven up from inside the cab. I don't know if your particular model follows that typical scheme or does something unusual, but I would not expect it to rely on exterior caulking for the cab to cabover seal.
DrewE 11/28/20 07:53pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Rear View with ? Camera ?

For the class C, at least, where you can see some of the window, try a stick-on fresnel wide-angle lens on the window. It's not the same as a backup camera, and definitely less useful at night, but during the day they work remarkably well and give a surprisingly good view of everything in back of the RV...and, of course, are not very expensive and not prone to suddenly breaking or having interference or running out of battery power.
DrewE 11/26/20 11:00am Tech Issues
RE: Burnt wires in power distribution panel "border=0" For Full-Size Image. So is it possible there was one loose wire and the heat moved on the bus to discolor the other wires? It's entirely possible. Generally when that's what has happened it's pretty clear which connection was loose as that wire is the most burnt one, and the ones adjacent are the next most toasted ones, etc.
DrewE 11/26/20 10:49am Tech Issues
RE: Must-haves for Van or SUV as tow vehicle?

The difference between class C and class A motorhomes are what sort of chassis they're built on. A class A motorhome is built on a bare chassis or a dedicated bus chassis. The coach builder creates all the bodywork for the vehicle. A class B motorhome is built inside a cargo van, with the van maker supplying all the outside bodywork (except possibly for a raised roof). A class C motorhome is built on a cutaway chassis or cab-and-chassis, with the vehicle chassis manufacturer supplying the cab portion of the bodywork and the coach builder the rear house part of the bodywork. Most but not all class C's have a cabover bunk or entertainment center area, giving them a somewhat distinctive look from the side. Most if not all of what are sold as "Class B+" motorhomes are technically class C motorhomes; class B+ is nothing more than a marketing term. A (very) few oddball motorhomes don't neatly fit into one of the three classes.
DrewE 11/26/20 10:43am General RVing Issues
RE: Battery Disconnect... What does it disconnect??

There are variations in how things are wired. On my motorhome, on one side of the disconnect are the house loads, and on the other side are the battery, converter, battery combiner relay (which allows the alternator to charge the house battery when the engine is running), and a couple of always powered loads--the entrance step and the dash radio clock/memory line, I think. Often the converter is separated from the battery by the cutoff switch and so always connected to the house loads, rather than being connected to the battery and isolated from the house. Sometimes there are other always-on circuits, such as the propane and CO detector, slide motors, etc. On travel trailers, the emergency breakaway brake system should always be unswitched.
DrewE 11/26/20 10:37am General RVing Issues
RE: Twin beds in cabover bunk?

In my class C, the cabover bunk is larger than the short queen bed in the rear bedroom. If the boys are not yet too tall, it would be simple (in my unit, at least) to have them both bed down lengthwise on either side and have plenty of space between. Some cabover bunks are not nearly so spacious. I don't think many if any are actually laid out from the factory as a pair of twin beds.
DrewE 11/26/20 10:17am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Winterization of RV

Go over your uses with the rental agency or person and see what they say to do. Most likely, if you'll be keeping the RV in use (and so running the furnace, etc. when it's cold), there's no reason to winterize or do anything else particularly different to camp in moderately sub-freezing temperatures, though it depends some on the specific RV model in question. You will need to use water from the built-in tank with the water pump rather than leaving the hose connected and using city water, as the hose will freeze if left in the cold weather (and quite possibly damage the campground's spigot as well).
DrewE 11/26/20 10:11am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Can you buy new what CA rents

I did not know the engines were different, I assumed they they had the same chassis in the rental units that they sold to you and me. Do you think the 5.4 V8 is more reliable than the V-10? If I'm not mistaken the 6.8 V10 is literally a 5.4 with a longer crank and block to accommodate two more cylinders. If you do the math the cylinder sizes are exactly the same. I suppose the 5.4 might be incrementally more reliable with fewer moving parts, but both are very reliable engines. Yes, they're both examples of the Ford modular engine family, sharing the same cylinder spacing, bank angle, and other key block dimensions. There are some other differences between the V8 and V10, though, such as the addition of a balance shaft to the V10 (as required to keep vibration under control). Both are quite reliable engines. I sometimes wish Ford had made an 8.1L V12 engine as part of the line; that should make for a very smooth running and decently powerful engine.
DrewE 11/26/20 10:07am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Toyota motor homes

Another option might be an ex-Cruise America 19' model. They're about the shortest motorhomes available (well, aside from the old, mostly homebuilt VW bug conversions--look up info on the "VW MiniHome" if you're curious). I'd take one of the former rentals over a Toyota based motorhome any day of the week and twice on weekends for the reasons everyone else has already mentioned. There's still not much storage, of course.
DrewE 11/26/20 09:57am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class A motorhomes with a Ford V10 Chassis

I agree with the others--it's pretty much a bulletproof engine if given basic maintenance. That isn't to say that accessories (including the starter) won't eventually wear out, but that's true of any engine; but the V10 is overall quite reliable and robust.
DrewE 11/26/20 09:15am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Jack Placement to Change my Tire

Lifting just one wheel is no different than driving over a lump or speed bump; the suspension can easily take a few inches (or more) of movement on any wheel. If you're lifting it a couple feet, it would be a different story and you probably should be thinking of how to keep the frame from racking. But for changing a tire or such things, there's no need to worry.
DrewE 11/15/20 06:47pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Jack Placement to Change my Tire

Break the lug nuts loose before jacking. It's usually easier as well to do the final tightening once the jack is removed. Securely chock the diagonally opposite wheel. For a rear tire, jacking the axle under the spring mount is always safe as that part is always carrying the weight. For the front it depends a bit more on the specific chassis, but it's usually not too tricky to figure out. One jack should suffice just fine. Hopefully it goes without saying, but do not put any of your body parts under the vehicle while it's supported by the jack. If the jack should slip, they could get crushed, and that's not good for your health and well-being.
DrewE 11/15/20 04:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: RV damage and repair fix help

What sort of damage are we talking about? What sort of skills, time, and equipment do you have? How concerned are you that a repair look perfect vs. simply being safe and solid but possibly not entirely aesthetic? Depending on what you need done, repairs can range from super easy for anyone with a couple thumbs to do, to requiring a lot of work and/or being difficult for the shade tree mechanic to do neatly, and maybe even beyond to where it's not practical to repair at all but rather part out and start over. The last option would usually be pretty obvious: you're staring at a pile of ash and soot, say, or the components that once made up a trailer scattered over the highway median.
DrewE 11/13/20 07:03pm Tech Issues
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