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 > Your search for posts made by 'DrewE' found 657 matches.

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RE: New generator for new rv. Recommendations

db ratings are not linear. The open frame unit you reference is rated at 64 db which is a LOT louder than one that is say, 56 db which is more in the realm of enclosed RV type inverter units. Decibels are not linear in terms of power (and energy), but they are pretty near linear with respect to perceived loudness. We don't perceive acoustic power in a linear manner, which is partly why decibels are useful units. An increase of 8 dB is definitely noticeable but not what most people would characterize as a LOT louder.
DrewE 04/10/21 09:54am Beginning RVing
RE: replacing luggage bay latches

Either approach would be reasonable in my estimation, assuming there's sufficient access and clearance for the fasteners and tools needed. Pop rivet tools and pop rivets are affordable and easy to use (and nuts and screws are too, of course).
DrewE 04/10/21 09:43am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hot water trickle

Are your winterizing valves all fully set in the correct positions?
DrewE 04/08/21 03:30pm General RVing Issues
RE: Brooksville, Fl. to Foxboro, MA

x3 on agwill's route. (I-75 to US301 to FL200 to get to I-95 works nicely; on that route, take Alt 301 around Starke unless you have reason to stop in Starke.) There is one significant climb up Fancy Gap in Virginia on I-77, but nothing you can't manage. There are a couple lesser but still noticeable ups and downs on I-81, and some rolling hills.
DrewE 04/08/21 08:53am Roads and Routes
RE: Surge Guard - Need Vs. Cost

The EMS-PT50X is indeed a good choice.
DrewE 04/07/21 09:31pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Battery observations of winter storage.

The cold will dramatically slow the self discharge. This is true. If memory serves, the rough rule of thumb was half (or double) the rate for every ten degrees Celsius down (or up) in temperature. A couple weeks in Florida summer weather will cause more self-discharge than all winter in a cold (sub-freezing) place.
DrewE 04/07/21 09:26pm Tech Issues
RE: Stupid question about tires

Our mechanic suggested nitrogen in the car tires if we did a rotation as winter approached. Apparentky it doesn't contract and expand as much in the cold and so is better in extreme temps. That was already a few years ago- the fad seems to have died down. The only component of air that expands or contracts significantly differently than nitrogen alone is water vapor. Dry air won't behave much differently at all than pure nitrogen (and air is mostly nitrogen anyhow)--all the component gasses are very well well described by the ideal gas law. Some gasses do interact with rubber a little differently; in particular, carbon dioxide more easily permeates through the rubber itself than most other gasses, though it's not a huge difference and completely irrelevant if your tire isn't perfectly sealed to the rim, or the valve stem leaks microscopically, etc. In some extreme applications, like airliners and race cars, nitrogen is used to reduce fire risks. For ordinary vehicles and trailers, it's pretty much valueless (but not harmful or worrisome in any way).
DrewE 04/07/21 09:22pm General RVing Issues
RE: Class C that's easy to fix?

Pretty much the only truck-based class C's are the super C's built on heavier duty platforms than the van chassis, and also typically have heavier price tags to match. You'll usually be doing a lot more maintenance and repair on the house part of the motorhome, and access to appliances and systems there is highly variable but usually, per Murphey's Law, really tight for that one thing that is currently giving trouble. The engines and transmissions do not need a lot of repair generally speaking.
DrewE 04/07/21 11:48am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Thor Majestic 23A

All the "Majestic" models are ex-Cruise America (or possibly Cruise Canada) models, made to their specifications. They may be similar to other models, of course, but will differ in various details. Driving on dirt roads should be not much different from most any other model with similar weight, length, and wheelbase (on the same chassis). They may tend to hold up a bit better to vibration and shaking, being built somewhat more sturdily than some others, but of course that has to be balanced against the amount of use that they've already had. Generally speaking, maintained dirt roads should not be a problem if driven at appropriately slow speeds and if there are not low overhanging tree branches. Off-road trails requiring four wheel drive are, of course, an entirely different matter, and a standard class C motorhome is definitely not the vehicle of choice there.
DrewE 04/06/21 11:10pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Lock on Bed Lift

There's a reason I want the magnet lock, it's not visible, and a potential thief would hopefully not see the lock and give up. Open to other suggestions, but I know a "lock" is an open invitation for further investigation. What are you going to do if there is no power like parked at WalMart and you leave for dinner for example? Or you have something in mind that works differently? I think perhaps they mean the magnet-activated anti-toddler cabinet locks, where you hold a magnet over the mechanism to get it to disengage. I do agree with many others that there doesn't seem to be much practical reason to have a lock there as described for security. I can see two reasons to want a locked area inside an RV. One is to keep little kids out of dangerous stuff and teens out of the S'mores chocolate, where actual security is not much of a concern. This doesn't seem to be what the poster has in mind. The other, and I think misguided, is to keep thieves who have already broken in from valuable stuff. I'd guess that, unless you have really, really valuable stuff, the damage caused by the thieves breaking in and destroying stuff to get it out will generally exceed the value of the stuff stolen. Better to have them not destroy the bed and take the stuff than to have them destroy it and take the stuff...or destroy it and decide the stuff isn't worth taking. At that point, you probably already have a broken skylight or something. (There may be other reasons to latch the bed up, such as to prevent it falling or drifting down due to vibration while en route.)
DrewE 04/06/21 10:48am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Model PD9280A converter problems

Are your batteries good? Did you measure output voltage with the batteries disconnected (as a test)?
DrewE 04/05/21 11:11am Tech Issues
RE: hot water rv heater

If you want hot air, use the furnace. Yep, best way to obtain hot air is to use the cold air heater. :B Or, if you have an old house with steam radiators, you'd have to fire up the cold water boiler. I've never really understood the objection to "hot water heater." It's the heater for the hot water system, and so that name seems to me entirely reasonable.
DrewE 04/03/21 08:45pm General RVing Issues
RE: DIY leak pressure test

I've read (here, I think) that a shop vac can also be effective. If I were attempting to do this sort of test in a DIY fashion, that's what I would try first since I already have one.
DrewE 04/03/21 01:15pm General RVing Issues
RE: gas mileage

8-ish on the interstate is probably a reasonable guess; at that length, you're not likely to be talking of a diesel motorhome. Weight has some effect on the mileage, but not as much as you might expect for highway driving; once you're moving, it doesn't affect the rolling resistance much and affects the air resistance not one bit. It does, of course, affect the mileage when going up hills or in stop-and-go/city driving where one's speed isn't steady. (Incidentally, most gas class C motorhomes also get around 8-ish mpg.)
DrewE 04/02/21 11:51pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Grounding strap from radio antenna, where to connect it?

Ideally: install a piece of sheet metal under the antenna (a few square feet) and attach it to that. The ground plane is there to basically act as a sort of RF counterpoise for the main antenna element; the DC voltage it's at is comparatively of little importance from an antenna performance standpoint (but may be of great importance to the circuitry in the radio or any amplifier circuitry in the antenna). If you aren't going to create a proper ground plane, connecting it to most any handy chassis ground potential place is probably the best plan, but it may be worth experimenting with it connected and unconnected to see if perchance one works better than the other.
DrewE 04/02/21 12:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Moisture behind mattress? (Cold caught us)

It may be well-nigh unavoidable. If the inside of the exterior wall is cooler than the dew point of the air in the RV, you're going to get condensation; so the only options are to reduce the humidity of the air inside (and that may make it a lot drier than you care to be breathing) or raise the temperature of the wall, say by moving the mattress aside for awhile...or going somewhere warmer. If it were me, I'd probably just move the mattress aside during the day to give the area a chance to warm up and dry up/air out, and not worry too much about it beyond that. Obviously taking reasonable steps to control the inside humidity is also a good idea, such as cracking a roof vent or two. Cooking, breathing, and showering all add a good bit of moisture to the air, and it's rather inconvenient to live without any of them, to say the least.
DrewE 04/01/21 11:43am Beginning RVing
RE: Questions for Veterans

My (strictly civilian) opinion: I don't think it's fundamentally different than if your son went to, say, the Rochester Institute of Technology, and gave you an RIT shirt. Wearing it would not seem to necessarily imply that you're an alumnus of that fine school, and I don't think anyone could possibly be offended by the explanation that your child studied there. Rather, in either case, wearing the shirt simply shows that you're proud of them and their achievements (and have good taste in casual clothes).
DrewE 03/31/21 10:48pm Around the Campfire
RE: What do you use for local travel once camped up?

For me, it varies depending on where I am going. Most of the time, it's some combination of public transit and walking. Sometimes I bring my bicycle (on a hitch-mount bike rack). Sometimes it's driving about in the motorhome itself.
DrewE 03/31/21 12:59pm Beginning RVing
RE: Nexus Chassis noise

A few possibilities exist; offhand, and approximately in order of my guessed likelihood, it might be: 1. Universal joint/carrier bearing/drive shaft balance issues. 2. Out of balance or out of round tires/wheels. 3. A whiney sound, particularly one that varies with load, could be noise from the differential.
DrewE 03/31/21 12:55pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Surge Guard - Need Vs. Cost

Cheap ones are basically like surge suppressor power strips: a few MOVs to absorb voltage spikes, and not much more. They are of limited usefulness in actual practice. Sometimes they do have some sort of metering to show you the voltage and so forth, which is only useful if you happen to be there paying attention to it when there's a problem. Better ones have electronics to monitor for power line problems and cut off the power if one is detected: things like low or high line voltage (perhaps the most important ones--which also cover an open neutral), miswired outlets, line frequency out of range, etc. One of these is what you want.
DrewE 03/31/21 12:48pm Class A Motorhomes
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