Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Search
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'DrewE' found 597 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 30  
Prev  |  Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Connect small wires to auto battery post?

While you're doing this adapting/modification, if the small wires don't have a fuse or circuit breaker in close proximity to the battery, add in an in-line fuse holder and an appropriately sized fuse to help prevent the possibility of a fire starting should they short out. (One important exception: the circuit for the emergency trailer breakaway brake system is often not be fused...and of course never should be switched.)
DrewE 01/14/21 08:07am Tech Issues
RE: Albany NY to Newport, VT

ACZL's routes sound just fine to me; I'd recommend something like them, probably the second one (though the first is just fine, too). There are a couple of good fuel stops in Fair Haven, just barely south of the intersection of US4 and VT22A, that usually have pretty good prices on gasoline. I don't know how their diesel prices compare with other places. The mentioned stop on 22A is a nice one, too. To get from Harrisburg, PA to Albany, NY, I like to take I-81 to I-88 E to I-90 E to whatever (I-87 N in this case). I-88 used to be a pretty rough road, and while it still has some rather rough areas, they've done a lot of work on it the past few years and greatly improved most of the worst bits. It, and I-87 north of Albany (and more especially north of Glens Falls), go through some rather pretty rural areas. For that matter, the Interstate highways in Vermont are also comparatively scenic.
DrewE 01/13/21 07:36pm Roads and Routes
RE: Watkins Glen ny

I've stayed at the state park. Some of the sites are smallish, some are quite large indeed, and I don't recall anything about the road and the loop I was on being particularly tight for most any RV. Their maximum RV lengths in some cases seemed unnecessarily conservative (though probably not all cases). If memory serves, I stayed at site 292 which is advertised as a 30' site but in reality is huge. For (many of) the New York public campgrounds, the campadk.com campsite photo database is a great resource. I've nothing against the other campgrounds in the area--I just have no first-hand experience with them.
DrewE 01/13/21 07:14pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Rear View Camera - Cell Phone Hotspot as Wifi Booster?

My cell phone says it can do "hotspot" or tethering. Would that work as a "booster" for the camera wifi in a long trailer/long truck? (where it is too far for the wifi now) Eg, I have an iPad on the truck's mirror and the camera at the back of the RV. If I use the cell phone in the front of the RV with the Hopkins app to get the camera's wifi (so it is free that way NOT using "data"), and turn on the cell's "hotspot", would that give the signal to the iPad it could select as its "network" in the truck for that extra distance? EDIT--the cell seems to have its hotspot with Bluetooth. I have a question about this idea or another booster in to Hopkins. I will pass along any info. Almost certainly the phone will not work as a WiFi extender. The cell phone has three radio systems (that matter here--there are others as well, such as GPS and often an FM radio): the cell phone system, the WiFi system, and the Bluetooth system. Tethering basically connects the WiFi to the cell phone's data connection, with the WiFi unit acting as a hotspot/host rather than a client. (Or, in the case of Bluetooth tethering, it connects the cell phone data connection to a Bluetooth connection.) What you need is a WiFi to WiFi connection/extender, which cell phones are generally incapable of doing; I believe it generally requires additional hardware or at least specialized software.
DrewE 01/13/21 07:02pm Tech Issues
RE: What do you do?

If I am setting around the campfire I AM relaxing. I don't need to do anything else except stare at the fire. I'm with you. I'll also poke the fire with the fire poker about five times as much as is necessary, and maybe drink a cup or two of tea. The same thing works at home in my backyard, at least if the ground is not covered in that icy cold white stuff.
DrewE 01/13/21 06:37pm General RVing Issues
RE: Filling large propane tank on the road

Most places that sell propane in bulk will be accessible to most motorhomes, at least in my experience. Maybe less so if you have a toad attached (and so it's difficult or impossible to back up). Around me in New England, at least, many hardware stores (as distinct from big-box home improvement stores) sell propane, as do Tractor Supply, some UHaul dealers, propane distributors, some gas stations, etc. Some Pilot/Flying J truck stops have propane, and their web site lets you search based on that criteria. I stopped at one a couple days ago found with said web site and filled up my tank that was approaching empty.
DrewE 01/13/21 06:03pm Beginning RVing
RE: Best tire inflator for dually tires

My solution is to carry a small 120V compressor and the appropriate hose and dually inflator chuck. The compressor I carry is a Fini AirBoss, which I am quite satisfied with and recommend, though there are others that are similar in price and size and seem to have good reviews (such as the new Harbor Freight low-noise compressor). The AirBoss is nice and compact and relatively quiet, which is to say that it's rather loud but not quite VERY LOUD as many oilless (and some other) compressors are. If I need to use it when I don't have an electricity connection somewhere, I fire up the generator in the motorhome. If the generator won't work for some reason and I have a flat tire (and the spare isn't up to pressure), then it's just going to be one of those days!
DrewE 01/13/21 05:49pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Electrical mystery--set out to fix 2 problems but fixed 3

That's not at all unexpected. Ground from a portable generator is not in any particular way related to the hot or the neutral; the generator output is floating. Usually it will end up floating such that ground is somewhere near "halfway between" the hot and neutral, so 61V is very much in the range of what you'd typically see. Ground and neutral are at the same voltage (or practically the same voltage) in a house because they are bonded together at the main electrical service panel. If they were not bonded together, they'd generally tend to behave in a similar manner (at least much of the time). It would also be contrary to the electric code for a fixed installation, of course.
DrewE 01/04/21 05:27pm Tech Issues
RE: Western Washington to Nashville

One area I'd suggest stopping at is St Louis; there's a lot to see and do in that city. The zoo and botanical gardens are renowned, the City Museum is great fun for children and the young at heart (wear long pants and consider bringing knee pads), there's the arch, etc. Personally, I'd rate the City Museum as more fun than Walt Disney World, however tastes do differ.
DrewE 01/03/21 06:56pm Roads and Routes
RE: Electrical mystery--set out to fix 2 problems but fixed 3

If the generator is a portable generator, then the ground is almost certainly not bonded to the neutral at the generator, but floating. A neon test light between hot and a floating wire can light dimly--for that matter, one between hot and your fingers will work fine. The three light outlet testers are usually nothing more than three neon test lights, internally, arranged one between each pair of wires on the outlet. What you're observing is not a fault for a portable generator, but rather an intentional design feature, and would not cause the GFCI to trip. Troubleshooting would be simpler if you plugged into normal utility power, where ground is bonded to neutral. A hot to ground short there would generally cause a breaker or GFCI to trip (a GFCI that you're plugged into, not necessarily the one in the trailer if the fault is not downstream of it).
DrewE 01/03/21 03:01pm Tech Issues
RE: Batteries in parallel and series

This works well enough in practice, but it isn't theoretically perfect. The middle pair of batteries shares a bit less of the load than the outer two. Probably the simplest way to get theoretically perfect balancing is to run each of the three battery pair leads separately to a bus bar or other common connection point, using equal length wires for each battery. In practice, though, I'm pretty sure what's shown would work very well.
DrewE 01/02/21 07:34pm Tech Issues
RE: Looking for portable electric space heater for rv!

Elk Traveler, if it is the breaker in the RV that is flipping using an autoformer can improve things. Sagging voltage will cause a space heater (and indeed any resistance heater) to consume less current--and, of course, use less power and produce less heat. An autoformer would make the breaker more likely to trip, not less likely. It would only help reduce tripping in the extraordinary case where the line voltage is too high and it reduces it to a correct nominal value.
DrewE 01/02/21 12:01pm General RVing Issues
RE: Lifting my class C

So where the hoses are terminating is just a valve cap on a standard Schrader tire valve. Unscrew the cap and put some air in with whatever you have handy to inflate tires; I would not be at all surprised if they're working just fine as designed. If they're Firestone Ride-Rite units (and I'd guess they are), the pressure limits are 5 psi to 95 psi if memory serves--they say to always have at least a tiny bit of air in them to avoid damage, though I've never heard of any being damaged from lack of air. I wouldn't be surprised if the system is working fine as designed. I find around 40-45 psi works nicely for me on my motorhome, which of course is an entirely different unit and model than yours. Having a built-in compressor tied into the system and valving to be able to adjust on the fly for sure is a nice feature, but not essential to be able to use the air helper springs.
DrewE 01/02/21 11:54am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Lifting my class C

Definitely ask the local spring place. It's entirely possible the springs need replacement, but it's also entirely possible they're okay. The rear springs on the E-SuperDuty chassis (and I assume some other years of at least the E450 chassis, and maybe other E series chassis) have nearly flat springs by design. I don't see anything obviously wrong in your picture, but I'm also no spring expert, not by a very long shot. Getting some air in the helper springs will be a good start (and free), and probably coincidentally make the ride a bit better as well. They don't take a lot of air; a bicycle pump is very practical for putting air in if you don't have or don't want to mess with a compressor.
DrewE 01/01/21 03:23pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Lifting my class C

Replacing the shocks will not increase the ground clearance. It will, of course, improve the ride and handling if the existing shocks are not good or not in good shape. Similarly, a rear stabilizer bar won't increase the ground clearance. I would take the rig to a reputable spring and chassis shop (one that deals with trucks, etc.) and listen carefully to what they recommend. It may well be that simply repairing or replacing/upgrading the rear springs will help a lot. The rear end does appear to be riding low; possibly that's because of worn or broken springs, and possibly it's due to poor weight/balance as manufactured; both are entirely possible. Note that the rear springs will (probably) not appear to be arched greatly on this chassis; they're nearly straight, albeit mounted at an angle.
DrewE 12/31/20 06:24pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Small Class C on Truck Chassis?

What's the difference between a truck chassis and a van chassis? As was said, primarily it's the relationship of the engine, seating, and front axle relative to each other. On a truck chassis, the engine is in front of the dashboard and the seats are relatively low in the frame (and the floor often isn't flat around them, thanks to the driveshaft etc. running under them). On a van chassis, the engine is partly underneath the dashboard and the seats are mounted higher up, so the floor is flat and can be continued back along the chassis flat and level. Most class C motorhomes do still have a step up from the cab area, though, to provide additional underfloor space for tanks and storage space, so the floor isn't entirely flat from the cab back. In terms of engines, frames, axles, transmissions, suspension systems, and that sort of thing, they can be approximately comparable, though rarely identical. Current Ford truck chassis are more advanced than their van chassis in many regards, particularly with the front axle design which is rather long in the tooth for the van chassis. The trucks also tend to have newer engines and transmissions and such like. You can build a truck on a van chassis easily; smallish box trucks based on the E series chassis, for instance, are not all that rare.
DrewE 12/31/20 08:03am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Tankless heater in seasonal TT

- Now if you have a 50amp/240v supply, you can get a high wattage unit that can do the job (check the rating for temperature increase relative to flow) An 8 kW model (which is about the maximum you could reasonably hook to a 50A circuit and have some power left over for other things) would provide well less than 1 gpm with cool incoming water, and almost certainly be unsatisfactory for a shower. 15-20 kW might be a reasonable size, which requires at least a 100A service.
DrewE 12/29/20 05:19pm Tech Issues
RE: Ford Triton V-10 Info Request

I don't know if Class A rigs got the 3 valve, but Class C DID NOT ! Class A's, built on the F53 motorhome chassis, did get the 3 valve engine. (There are a very few class A motorhomes built on bare E-series chassis; the ones I'm aware of are the Thor Axis and Vegas. They, of course, do not have the three valve engine, since their chassis but not bodywork is identical to typical class C's.)
DrewE 12/29/20 08:13am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Changing Spare Tire

Get a couple of the rubber wheel chocks if you don't have any, too. The $7.99 list price ones are perfectly sufficient.
DrewE 12/28/20 06:34pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ford Triton V-10 Info Request

The V-10 with 3 valve and 5r110 trans is rated at 362 HP and 475 ft. lb. torque. The V-10 with the 6 speed trans was chipped down to 345 HP. The 5 speed is the same trans as the 6 speed but the 5 only uses 5 speeds depending upon the ambient temperature. It will shift 12346 or 12356. The six speed transmission is not the same as the five speed; it is a different design with entirely different ratios. The five speed was technically a six speed internally, but fourth and fifth differ by only about nine percent and so are not really treated as separate gears (as you mention). Most of the time, except in quite cold conditions, the actual fourth gear is the one skipped. It's worth noting that the horsepower (and torque) ratings are at different RPMs with the two different engine tunes; from all I've seen, subjectively the engine is not less powerful with the six speed transmission, and indeed the overall package is superior to drive. Apparently it's mostly tuned for a broader torque curve/power band, at the expense of peak power at really high RPMs. (I read a claim that it was mostly a paper change to what RPM the power was officially measured at, supposedly to meet some sort of emissions or noise regulation that was imposed with the engine operating at its rated power, and the actual tuning hadn't changed all that much. That may well be just an urban legend.)
DrewE 12/28/20 06:32pm Class A Motorhomes
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 30  
Prev  |  Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2021 CWI, Inc. © 2021 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.