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RE: Jeeps >2012 Flat Towed?

Well, Must not be too interested in answers since it's been over 12 days since he asked for help. Scott
FIRE UP 03/22/20 11:51pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Jeeps >2012 Flat Towed?

We are looking to replace our 1997 Jeep Wrangler as a flat-towed vehicle behind out motor home. Our auto mechanic advised NOT to get any Jeep product 2012 or newer. They claim that they have several customers who have these vehicles and every time they tow they have to come into their shop to get the vehicle's computer "re-calibrated". Apparently the computer senses moving yet no engine and it garbles all the settings. Has anyone experienced this? We want to replace our flat-tow and don't know whether to stay away from >2012 Jeeps or not. Please reply with specific details. Many Thanks as always.... Your auto mechanic needs to have his head examined. As you can see and read, there's absolutely ZERO issues towing just about ANY year Jeep Wrangler, much less the '12's a and up. If he's getting customers with issues in their '12 and up Wranglers after they've towed, then they themselves are doing something wrong. If you look in ANY OWNERS MANUAL for about 99.9999% of the Wranglers made, (must be 4WD models) including ones before '12 and after '12, the owners manual clearly states procedures for flat towing, behind a motorhome. We've owned, modified, towed and played with 9 different Jeep Wranglers in the past 35 years and to date, NOT ONE SINGLE PROBLEM has ever emerged from flat towing any of them. And those included CJ's, YJs, TJs and our present one, a '15 Jeep JKUR. I won't bother telling you the procedures for towing, again, that's in the owners manual of the one you choose. And again, your auto mechanic is providing you with false information. If his information had any validity at all, you'd see and read of it in every single RV forum on the planet, Jeep forums, and more. Now, on a side note, if you actually are thinking of a newer Jeep, I'd suggest you look specifically for a '12 and up simply because, Jeep knew the '07 to '11 models were under powered and got lousy gas mileage. So, in 2012, they developed and installed, the Pentastar 3.6L V-6 285 HP engine. Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay superior to the 3.8L mini-van motor that was previously used. Good luck. Scott
FIRE UP 03/11/20 10:19pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Splendide XC Combo oiling our clothes?

A *Dryer sheet* leaves OIL residue on clothes? Hmmmm, that's a new one on me. Scott
FIRE UP 02/28/20 10:50am Class A Motorhomes
RE: New Laminated Glass vs Reseal dual pane Windows

Fire Up, And you have used your RV at -34 F with no condensation on the single glazed laminated windows? Sorry for not getting back earlier. The answer is NO, we did not use that particular coach, or ANY COACH we've had, in conditions like that. Fact is, in all my life and traveling experience, I or we, have never experienced anything even close to that kind of cold. And, if I thought for even a minute, that we would, while camping, we'd either never leave home here in southwestern AZ or, would head back to the barn, pronto. But, as stated, those laminated windows worked just great in whatever temp it was when we were in snow conditions and, heated conditions like Moab in the summer. Scott
FIRE UP 02/28/20 10:46am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Coleman Heat Pump blowing cold air

Hey all- We have a 2015 Itasca Sunstar (Winnebago Vista) with a Coleman A/C which also functions as a heat pump. When in heat pump mode it frequently...but not always....blows hot for awhile then blows cold. Not A/C cold, but ambient-temp cold. Notes: 1. When it blows cold it never ultimately switches itself off; we have to do it. Makes sense, really, because it never reaches the "set" point. 2. When it does operate normally it blows hot, reaches the correct temp, and shuts itself off. 3. When it starts to blow cold I set the thermostat down a degree below our current temp. It shuts off, as it should. I then set the temp up a degree above our current temp; this kinda "reboots" the unit. After the appropriate cycling delay, it comes back on, hot. For a few minutes, then goes cold again. I can repeat the "reboot", and it does it again: comes on hot, then cold. 4. I have looked at the unit on the roof: all appears fine, no leaf or debris buildup around the unit at all that I can see. Based on #3, the fact that it comes on warm and then turns cold, I'm wondering if it could be the thermostat on the wall giving erroneous commands to the roof unit. The thermostat says "RV Comfort-HP". Next line: "Coleman Made". Any thoughts? Thanks- Dave Dave, Just wondering. I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed but, to my knowledge, Winne stopped using the "heat pump" which, was also kind-a known as a basement A/C unit, way back about 2009 or so. I could be off by a year or so. Now, also, I'm not the most schooled on roof top A/C units but, if that's what you have, is there a *heat pump* in those or, is there just some sort of heat strip type heater in them? Scott
FIRE UP 02/26/20 08:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New Laminated Glass vs Reseal dual pane Windows

Well, You wanted "real" customers or people that have done that. Yep, we changed to laminated glass on our two, 2' x 4' single/slider side windows in our previous coach, an '04 Fleetwood Bounder 34V. Both side windows were fogging. I did a bunch of research and, well, at the time, it was easier and almost cheaper by doing the laminate route. So, that's what we did. Long story short, all the milarky about a laminated window "sweating", not insulating against heat and or cold etc., is just that, a bunch of bull. We owned that coach for 7 years and toured all over the place with it. We were in snow and places like Death Valley with it. And, we were in those conditions WITH DUAL PANE WINDOWS and, with LAMINATED WINDOWS. Guess what, there was ZERO temperature differences using the laminated glass. There was ZERO sweating. The change to laminated glass simply WORKED, PERIOD! The fit and finish was almost completely indistinguishable. In fact, no one could see the difference until we told them. 99.9% of the people who condemn such a change, have never done it. Well, it's simple. It's a choice thing. Good luck. Scott
FIRE UP 01/30/20 07:56pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Splendide XC Combo oiling our clothes?

Let's see, OIL, being deposited, in/on the lighter colored clothes, while IN the washing machine which, has no ability for oil to enter water from any point in that machine, that I can think of. This will be interesting to read on what your remedy is. Scott
FIRE UP 01/22/20 09:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Wanna bring a golf cart and a Jeep towed

Look for a rear dolly or platform. Some are attached to the MH at 2 points (2 receivers). And then you can tow off of the platform. You could also get a swivel wheel trailer which has 2 wheels that swivel for backing. You could attach this to the Jeep, they are not considered a trailer. Well, The OP's not say what model "Jeep" they're intending on towing but, if it's a Wrangler, you cannot tow it on a dolly. Jeep specifically condemns that in the owners manual. Now, I have no idea what the OP's motorhome is rated at for towing but, one might look into an aluminum flat bed trailer that both might fit on. Then, you'd only have to figure where to park the trailer at in many camp grounds. Scott
FIRE UP 11/12/19 11:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Truck bed liner on roof

Some one has mentioned to me use of the truck bed liner on the roof. Is that a good idea? What are possible problems? You can use it but unless you have a metal roof, you'll need some type of compatible primer/bonder on the wood or fiberglass otherwise it will separate and ultimately fail. You can't apply it over a membrane roof as it will fail. The biggest problem is weight and adhesion. Well, Yeah, things CAN fail, if the prep is done improperly. I witnessed the prep work done on some of the coaches for this spray on roof coating. NO, THEY DO NOT PUT IT OVER RUBBER ROOFS, GEEZE! Any rubber roof is torn off and, any and all potentially bad substrate, such as plywood or luan is removed and replaced. All vents, A/C units and the like, are removed. They will wrap that spray on liner right over the roof radius to a given point that, is either mutually agreed with the owner or, what the facility recommends. Hense, that's why they call it a ONE PIECE roof. And yes, it is also put on ALUMINUM roofs too. When I was there, getting work done on our coach, there were several higher end coaches, lined up, in prep for getting that spray on roof. At that time, around 6-7 years ago, it was not all that bad in price. A 36' coach would cost around $3,500 or so. I have no idea what it costs now. I do know that, if we needed a roof and we really, really liked our coach, I'd opt for that spray on roof in a heartbeat. Scott So you're going to say that it won't crack where 2 pieces of plywood come together? The roof will flex and that seam will crack! Truck bedliner is made for the beds of trucks! If "that seam will crack" would happen, you'd have hundreds of thousands of seams on RVs cracking all over the U.S. Obviously you've not seen one up close and or, watched it being applied. I have seen them up close after years of use and, not ONE CRACK has ever developed. Besides, while it (the spray on coating) is some ultra tough stuff, it does have some flexibility. Pickup beds flex TOO!! Yet, I've never, ever seen any cracking of ANY SPRAY ON BED LINER! If one chooses not to have it done, fine, it's their coach. I'm not selling the stuff. I've just seen it used and as I stated before, it's lifetime guaranteed and is tougher than nails. Scott
FIRE UP 11/08/19 10:18am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Truck bed liner on roof

Some one has mentioned to me use of the truck bed liner on the roof. Is that a good idea? What are possible problems? You can use it but unless you have a metal roof, you'll need some type of compatible primer/bonder on the wood or fiberglass otherwise it will separate and ultimately fail. You can't apply it over a membrane roof as it will fail. The biggest problem is weight and adhesion. Well, Yeah, things CAN fail, if the prep is done improperly. I witnessed the prep work done on some of the coaches for this spray on roof coating. NO, THEY DO NOT PUT IT OVER RUBBER ROOFS, GEEZE! Any rubber roof is torn off and, any and all potentially bad substrate, such as plywood or luan is removed and replaced. All vents, A/C units and the like, are removed. They will wrap that spray on liner right over the roof radius to a given point that, is either mutually agreed with the owner or, what the facility recommends. Hense, that's why they call it a ONE PIECE roof. And yes, it is also put on ALUMINUM roofs too. When I was there, getting work done on our coach, there were several higher end coaches, lined up, in prep for getting that spray on roof. At that time, around 6-7 years ago, it was not all that bad in price. A 36' coach would cost around $3,500 or so. I have no idea what it costs now. I do know that, if we needed a roof and we really, really liked our coach, I'd opt for that spray on roof in a heartbeat. Scott
FIRE UP 11/06/19 09:39pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Truck bed liner on roof

Some one has mentioned to me use of the truck bed liner on the roof. Is that a good idea? What are possible problems? two travelers, Since many are clueless that this system exists, here's a link: http://www.sandiegorvcenter.com/rhino.php I witnessed this system being applied. Without a doubt, it, BY FAR, is the best roof an RV could ever have. It's not "flimsy", it's not gonna "catch bridges". It's approximately 3/16" of an inch thick. It reduces noise immensely. It also reduces air conditioning requirements due to the fact that it reflects a considerable more amount of the suns heat than a regular RV roof, no matter what kind, does. It's LIFE TIME WARRANTIED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It's also PHENOMENALLY TOUGH! Tree branches are no match for it. Not that all that many people attempt to rub up against tree branches on purpose but, none the less, it happens and, you're not gonna hurt this stuff, no matter how hard you try. It comes in colors too, at a bit more of a cost. It essentially IS a sprayed on truck bed liner only adjusted and adapted to work on an RV roof. Take a look at the video. Scott
FIRE UP 11/04/19 10:56pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2007 workhorse w22 rear wheel axle seals

I currently have a leak in the passenger side rear wheel inner seal. All I can find is workhorse part number (way too expensive). Does anyone have the manufactures part number?? Would like to have both outside and inside seal part numbers...Thanks Unless things have changed dramatically, there will be NO outside axle seal. All that seals the diff fluid from escaping is the end of the hub, is the axle end, with all the bolts tight. About 98% of the diff builders for the larger truck axles, use no actual gasket. They may use Silicone. As for the inner one, why don't you just simply remove the hub and wipe things off and see for yourself, what the number is? It will be right there, on the outside of the seal. It could be a "CR" or, Chicago Rawhide brand. But, this way you'll know EXACTLY what the seal part number is and you can cross reference it to your hearts content. Scott
FIRE UP 11/04/19 04:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Jeep towed discharged when towing. This is new.

RJL, It's been mentioned at least a time or two in this thread of yours. Your OWNERS MANUAL IS WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!! Jeep knows this and, has sent out SOME corrections to SOME owners over the years. They simply cannot keep up with all the private sales of Jeep Wranglers to be able to send out corrections to all who are involved. There is NO NEED FOR YOU TO PUT THAT KEY IN THE ACCESSORY POSITION, PERIOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Jeep stopped the steering lock half way through the 2008 year of production. Since then, there are NO JEEP WRANGLERS WITH STEERING LOCKS!!!!! And since that's the case, you have no reason to put that ignition key in any other position other than OFF!!! Jeep has made a few model changes over the years and, there are a couple of towing procedures that effect different ones. The "TJ" series DID have a steering lock and, the key was needed to be put ONE CLICK past off. But, that did not energize any of the electrical system. In 2007, Jeep re-engineered the Wrangler and created the "JK" series. For 2007 and half way through 2008, the steering lock was continued. But, in mid year production run, Jeep eliminated the steering lock and therefore, that eliminated the need for the key to be in the accessory position for towing. Again, Jeep screwed up in MANY of their owners manuals and did, at some time, try to get the correct information out but, it did not reach all who were involved. If you want to keep your charge wire, that's up to you. You don't need it though since you don't need to keep that key in the accessory position. Good luck. Scott
FIRE UP 10/28/19 11:37pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Battery Hold downs

Bill, Thanks for the suggestion. And I certainly appreciate it. But, as stated, those 6V golf cart batteries weigh 67 lbs. each and, they're pretty much wedged in the tray. Our motorhome would have to bounce at such a phenomenal rate to even MOVE those batteries, that I'm pretty sure I'd have way more other problems than dislodged batteries. If I really wanted to, I could MacGyver something without too much trouble. They've been in there now for over 7 years and, haven't moved yet. Thanks again. Scott
FIRE UP 10/01/19 11:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Battery Hold downs

Well, I'll more than likely get a bit of flaming for this but, no biggie, been flamed many, many times both in my career and on here. Anyway, I changed from (3) 12V Junk INTERSTATE batteries to (4) Costco 6V Golf Cart batteries over 7 years ago and, since I have very, very little clearance above the batteries, I have NO HOLD DOWNS at all on those. They weigh 67 lbs EACH!!!!!!!! Those (4) batteries are very close to each other and have a small spacer in between them so to just keep them from POTENTIALLY from sliding around. Now, am I gonna BOUNCE them out of their somewhat secure position, with any sort of rough road or intersection? Nope, not gonna happen. As stated, they've been that way for almost 8 years and haven't moved one micro inch. Scott Scott, I also have no hold downs on my 4 GC batteries, but if they jiggle loose they have no way out but up 2 1/2 feet and out the hood opening. I have seen some under the stair batteries that have little surrounding them and could escape if not secured. I think it all depends............... Richard Hey Richard, Yeah, if mine had little to no side wall restriction, I'd find some sort of way to tie them down. But, the House battery tray is approximately 4" deep and, those batteries are snug as a bug in a rug in there. I'd have to do a moto cross race with it in order for those four house batts to even think about trying to get out of their enclosure. Scott You still have dirt bikes? Ya have an extra? Lets go riding. I just sold my last dirt bike about a month ago. :( Now I down to Segways for two wheeling. Richard, Well, yeah, in fact I do have a dirt bike, sort-a. It's a Yamaha TW200. It's a combo thing. Don't know if you know about them or not but, if not, they're neat little toy. I'd post a pic but, Rv.net makes it so hard to post a pic, vs say, other RV forums. Look them up, they're a kick in the pants. Scott
FIRE UP 09/29/19 10:51pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Battery Hold downs

Well, I'll more than likely get a bit of flaming for this but, no biggie, been flamed many, many times both in my career and on here. Anyway, I changed from (3) 12V Junk INTERSTATE batteries to (4) Costco 6V Golf Cart batteries over 7 years ago and, since I have very, very little clearance above the batteries, I have NO HOLD DOWNS at all on those. They weigh 67 lbs EACH!!!!!!!! Those (4) batteries are very close to each other and have a small spacer in between them so to just keep them from POTENTIALLY from sliding around. Now, am I gonna BOUNCE them out of their somewhat secure position, with any sort of rough road or intersection? Nope, not gonna happen. As stated, they've been that way for almost 8 years and haven't moved one micro inch. Scott Scott, I also have no hold downs on my 4 GC batteries, but if they jiggle loose they have no way out but up 2 1/2 feet and out the hood opening. I have seen some under the stair batteries that have little surrounding them and could escape if not secured. I think it all depends............... Richard Hey Richard, Yeah, if mine had little to no side wall restriction, I'd find some sort of way to tie them down. But, the House battery tray is approximately 4" deep and, those batteries are snug as a bug in a rug in there. I'd have to do a moto cross race with it in order for those four house batts to even think about trying to get out of their enclosure. Scott
FIRE UP 09/28/19 10:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Battery Hold downs

Well, I'll more than likely get a bit of flaming for this but, no biggie, been flamed many, many times both in my career and on here. Anyway, I changed from (3) 12V Junk INTERSTATE batteries to (4) Costco 6V Golf Cart batteries over 7 years ago and, since I have very, very little clearance above the batteries, I have NO HOLD DOWNS at all on those. They weigh 67 lbs EACH!!!!!!!! Those (4) batteries are very close to each other and have a small spacer in between them so to just keep them from POTENTIALLY from sliding around. Now, am I gonna BOUNCE them out of their somewhat secure position, with any sort of rough road or intersection? Nope, not gonna happen. As stated, they've been that way for almost 8 years and haven't moved one micro inch. Scott
FIRE UP 09/28/19 10:15am Class A Motorhomes
RE: building new campground

One thing being overlooked by all the respondents who would gladly travel 8 miles off the interstate for a nice, clean, safe, quiet, pretty, laid back etc. park is how in the heck can the park owner convey that information to a transiting RVer? A small, new park will require years, plural, to build up enough reviews for them to be a factor people use to choose a park. If you go to Campgroundreviews.com you see that medium size parks (75 sites or so) generally have about 100 reviews and that is over the course of the 10 or 15 years that site has been in business. Same for Google. And what if one of those early reviews for that new park was something along the lines of "not much here, Just a place to park. 6 out 10 rating". It would be truthful, but would sure hurt the business because many people go by the score and nothing in a review like that screams "stay here". The other ways people find parks are guidebooks, websites, signage and referrals. Guidebooks are expensive to advertise in and people take any ad with a grain of salt. Books are generally replaced on about a 5 year cycle, so after opening your park, placing your ad and having the new book come out it will be years before even half the people who use books have a book with your ad. On top of that, paper books are a seriously declining market. Closely related is people now use their GPS systems to find parks and for a new park to appear in the GPS software requires years and luck. Referrals also take years upon years to spread. Websites are another possibility, but as with guidebook ads, people are very skeptical of what is being presented. Plus, how many people racing down the highway spend the time to more than glance at a park's website when just overnighting. Signage is the way many parks get overnighters, but signs at 65 MPH cannot convey information beyond "RV Park ahead, Take this exit". If this park is built, advertising and patience is how they are going to build the business. It just isn't going to have the ability to be an overnight success that a park in either a high traffic area or a destination area might achieve. In business, time is money, so I hope the builders don't give up their day jobs. Word of mouth advertising is, has been, and always will be, a very, very good form of advertising and notification. While it may take a while for the OP's newly developed camp ground to take hold, once the word get's out, folks that care about that kind of environment when they're stopping for even one night, will spread the word. It's too bad the $%&*@ Government has to get its hands on everything, even when someone is willing to devote their own property to weary travelers. Scott
FIRE UP 09/05/19 11:26am Class A Motorhomes
RE: building new campground

My wife and I would GLADLY travel 8 miles to a nice, quiet and secure place for even one night. EIGHT MILES, what's that? It's a heart beat in terms of traveling hundreds during the day. Yes, we see and, have rarely stayed at, RV parks and campground that are on the other side of a fence, by an off ramp of freeway. No thanks. Campground builders can usually purchase land that close to freeways for CHEAP! And, they also know that many folks don't want to drive ANY more distance than they have to for an over nights stay. I have never heard of the "Harvest Host" program. I think it's great. The wife and I are so tired of "live-ins" at many, many of the RV parks and campgrounds we've visited. The Harvest Host program and, the OP's thoughts are very welcome to us, even for just a night. Heck, I'd drive to the OP's x-farm for just one night, as long as we're not put next to broken bicycles, broken cars, dead potted plants hanging all over etc. To be able to park, setup, and then just sit outside and relax without car noise, Jake brakes or, staring at a sewer dump hose 5' away from our chairs, is a welcome thought. Scott
FIRE UP 09/04/19 04:49pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Decisions

Think about something. If you can;t maintain a 5 how are you going to maintain a Class C. No disrespect intended. Maybe it about driving and towing, hitching up and setup With a class C, it's more simple, less to do, and she can do some of the driving Well, That's a possible answer but, without taking some sort of informal or formal survey, I'd say that about 98% of the folks that travel in either class C's or class A's, ALSO tow a toad. So, you'd still have some form of hook-up and disconnect, before and after a days traveling. The type of hookup and disconnect will of course, be a bit different. A person or, couple can procure say, a 26'-28' class C and then get a small toad that takes literally a minute or two to hook up. Then, they have the versatility to bee-bop around after setting up camp. Maintenance is also a bit difference. Yep, a bit of engine, trans and drive train maintenance is gonna be present, for sure. But, it's not all that hard, especially with a C. Scott
FIRE UP 07/05/19 11:07am Class C Motorhomes
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