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 > Your search for posts made by 'FIRE UP' found 8 matches.

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RE: Portable air compressor

The whole concept of carrying a compressor has me scratching my head. If your tires are losing air you have a problem, get it fixed. I check tire pressures as part of my routine periodic circle check, but I can’t remember the last time I needed to add any air, then because I’d picked up a screw. Not everyone carries a compressor for their COACH TIRES. Having a small portable compressor is valuable in all kinds of situations. Those of us that have Jeeps quite often lower the tire pressure ON PURPOSE to enhance off road capabilities and, depending on how close you are to camp when you're at the end of a trail, you can drive back to the campground on low pressure tires and air them up when you get back. Or, if you're working on something that needs to blown out or off, you have AIR do to it. Or, if your bicycle or bicycles need air in their tires, you have AIR to do it. So yes, a small air compressor is of GREAT value in all kinds of situations. Scott
FIRE UP 12/10/20 11:01am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Portable air compressor

I have a 2019 Thor Axis 24.1. Which portable generator should I buy? The Aiair 400P or the 450P? Ya had me going for a minute. The title is "which air compressor" and, your question asks which "generator"? Wow! Anyway, ANY 12V compressor, yes even the junk Viair units are gonna work at topping off heavier duty tires. If you have the room and, a coach generator or, are normally plugged into shore power, I would (and have) definitely opt for a 120VAC unit. They are faster by far. I used to have the Craftsman version of the Porter Cable one that many carry but, due to unforeseen circumstances, it died and, I needed to replace it. So, long story short, I did a bit of research and came up with the Harbor Freight "Fortress" model. It's the 2-gallon version. There's multiple reasons I went with that one.\ 1. It's SERIOUSLY quieter than any other small, portable compressor on the market. 2. Its top pressure is 135 psi which, it suitable for ANY RV tire. 3. It's recovery time is PHENOMENALLY FASTER than any other compressor. 4. It has a *Brushless*, very low amp draw motor. I read all the reviews and was definitely impressed just by those. So, I took a chance and headed on down to my local HF and picked one up. I got it home, un boxed it and plugged it in. I was flabbergasted as to just how quiet it really is. I can put it on the couch, right along side me right now and still hear the TV just fine. It's cycle time, from where cut-on is, 95 psi, to it's cut-off pressure of 135, is SEVEN SECONDS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I did it several times just make sure my watch was not wrong. Yep, 7 seconds each time, from start to finish. Wow!!! And one of the best features, beside all those I mentioned, it holds that 135 PSI for WEEKS ON END. I used it two weeks ago to air up our Jeep tires to get ready to tow it and, it cycled one last time after the last tire and, I just looked at it and it's still at 135 psi!!!! Harbor Freight is having a *Black Friday* sale that is a full month long. That 2-gallon Fortress normally is $159.00 but, for this Black Friday sale, it's $129.00, Can't beat that with a stick. Without a doubt, that compressor DESTROYS my Viair 400P that I keep as a backup to a back up. Your choice. Scott
FIRE UP 12/09/20 08:49pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Jeeps >2012 Flat Towed?

Well, Must not be too interested in answers since it's been over 12 days since he asked for help. Scott
FIRE UP 03/22/20 11:51pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Jeeps >2012 Flat Towed?

We are looking to replace our 1997 Jeep Wrangler as a flat-towed vehicle behind out motor home. Our auto mechanic advised NOT to get any Jeep product 2012 or newer. They claim that they have several customers who have these vehicles and every time they tow they have to come into their shop to get the vehicle's computer "re-calibrated". Apparently the computer senses moving yet no engine and it garbles all the settings. Has anyone experienced this? We want to replace our flat-tow and don't know whether to stay away from >2012 Jeeps or not. Please reply with specific details. Many Thanks as always.... Your auto mechanic needs to have his head examined. As you can see and read, there's absolutely ZERO issues towing just about ANY year Jeep Wrangler, much less the '12's a and up. If he's getting customers with issues in their '12 and up Wranglers after they've towed, then they themselves are doing something wrong. If you look in ANY OWNERS MANUAL for about 99.9999% of the Wranglers made, (must be 4WD models) including ones before '12 and after '12, the owners manual clearly states procedures for flat towing, behind a motorhome. We've owned, modified, towed and played with 9 different Jeep Wranglers in the past 35 years and to date, NOT ONE SINGLE PROBLEM has ever emerged from flat towing any of them. And those included CJ's, YJs, TJs and our present one, a '15 Jeep JKUR. I won't bother telling you the procedures for towing, again, that's in the owners manual of the one you choose. And again, your auto mechanic is providing you with false information. If his information had any validity at all, you'd see and read of it in every single RV forum on the planet, Jeep forums, and more. Now, on a side note, if you actually are thinking of a newer Jeep, I'd suggest you look specifically for a '12 and up simply because, Jeep knew the '07 to '11 models were under powered and got lousy gas mileage. So, in 2012, they developed and installed, the Pentastar 3.6L V-6 285 HP engine. Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay superior to the 3.8L mini-van motor that was previously used. Good luck. Scott
FIRE UP 03/11/20 10:19pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Splendide XC Combo oiling our clothes?

A *Dryer sheet* leaves OIL residue on clothes? Hmmmm, that's a new one on me. Scott
FIRE UP 02/28/20 10:50am Class A Motorhomes
RE: New Laminated Glass vs Reseal dual pane Windows

Fire Up, And you have used your RV at -34 F with no condensation on the single glazed laminated windows? Sorry for not getting back earlier. The answer is NO, we did not use that particular coach, or ANY COACH we've had, in conditions like that. Fact is, in all my life and traveling experience, I or we, have never experienced anything even close to that kind of cold. And, if I thought for even a minute, that we would, while camping, we'd either never leave home here in southwestern AZ or, would head back to the barn, pronto. But, as stated, those laminated windows worked just great in whatever temp it was when we were in snow conditions and, heated conditions like Moab in the summer. Scott
FIRE UP 02/28/20 10:46am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Coleman Heat Pump blowing cold air

Hey all- We have a 2015 Itasca Sunstar (Winnebago Vista) with a Coleman A/C which also functions as a heat pump. When in heat pump mode it frequently...but not always....blows hot for awhile then blows cold. Not A/C cold, but ambient-temp cold. Notes: 1. When it blows cold it never ultimately switches itself off; we have to do it. Makes sense, really, because it never reaches the "set" point. 2. When it does operate normally it blows hot, reaches the correct temp, and shuts itself off. 3. When it starts to blow cold I set the thermostat down a degree below our current temp. It shuts off, as it should. I then set the temp up a degree above our current temp; this kinda "reboots" the unit. After the appropriate cycling delay, it comes back on, hot. For a few minutes, then goes cold again. I can repeat the "reboot", and it does it again: comes on hot, then cold. 4. I have looked at the unit on the roof: all appears fine, no leaf or debris buildup around the unit at all that I can see. Based on #3, the fact that it comes on warm and then turns cold, I'm wondering if it could be the thermostat on the wall giving erroneous commands to the roof unit. The thermostat says "RV Comfort-HP". Next line: "Coleman Made". Any thoughts? Thanks- Dave Dave, Just wondering. I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed but, to my knowledge, Winne stopped using the "heat pump" which, was also kind-a known as a basement A/C unit, way back about 2009 or so. I could be off by a year or so. Now, also, I'm not the most schooled on roof top A/C units but, if that's what you have, is there a *heat pump* in those or, is there just some sort of heat strip type heater in them? Scott
FIRE UP 02/26/20 08:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New Laminated Glass vs Reseal dual pane Windows

Well, You wanted "real" customers or people that have done that. Yep, we changed to laminated glass on our two, 2' x 4' single/slider side windows in our previous coach, an '04 Fleetwood Bounder 34V. Both side windows were fogging. I did a bunch of research and, well, at the time, it was easier and almost cheaper by doing the laminate route. So, that's what we did. Long story short, all the milarky about a laminated window "sweating", not insulating against heat and or cold etc., is just that, a bunch of bull. We owned that coach for 7 years and toured all over the place with it. We were in snow and places like Death Valley with it. And, we were in those conditions WITH DUAL PANE WINDOWS and, with LAMINATED WINDOWS. Guess what, there was ZERO temperature differences using the laminated glass. There was ZERO sweating. The change to laminated glass simply WORKED, PERIOD! The fit and finish was almost completely indistinguishable. In fact, no one could see the difference until we told them. 99.9% of the people who condemn such a change, have never done it. Well, it's simple. It's a choice thing. Good luck. Scott
FIRE UP 01/30/20 07:56pm Class A Motorhomes
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