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RE: Breaks and 12V system
Thanks for letting us know the outcome, and I'm glad in the end it was an easy fix!
Yeah, glad this one was easy. I'm just embarrassed that I missed something this simple.
Al
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FloridaRosebud
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07/27/21 02:35am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Breaks and 12V system
OK, looks like we (mobil RV tech and myself) ran down the problem. So I have to eat crow and defer to a couple of you guys who called it - LOOSE BATTERY CONNECTION. Yep, the Alt is putting out what it should be, the converter on genny or shore power is putting out what it should, no apparent bad connections, EXCEPT the positive on the battery terminal, which we could move with our hands. While I could blame it on the pounding we've been taking on the trip up here (which has been insane), we were able to tighten all the battery connections, but the main chassis positive was in fact loose.
Lesson - every oil change check the battery connections as well, which I should be doing anyway when I check the water levels....
Al
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FloridaRosebud
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07/26/21 03:31pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Breaks and 12V system
Was there no warning light or gauge to indicate low voltage? Usually voltage will creep down from 13, 12, 11, 10 volts over a few hours if the alternator is failed. Something should indicate this condition allowing you to start the generator etc and avoid the issue.
It could have, but I did not notice it. I have no gauge, just a warning light.
Al
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FloridaRosebud
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07/25/21 07:01pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Breaks and 12V system
Everything worked great today with the genny running. Battery connections (posts) are clean and good. After shutting down the genny I read 12.8V before I connected to shore power. I don't have my load tester with me (at home) but when we get to NY I will be getting a mobil guy out there. To add to the data, the little battery light has been flickering, indicating the output of the Alt is not good. In addition, with the genny off, the MH starts fine (after charging the battery), so that pretty much rules out the ignition switch as well.
AFA my question, thanks for the answers. If I loose 12V looks like I'll be standing hard on the brake with both feet.
BTW - I need to spell check my stuff....Breaks in the title....duh....
Al
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FloridaRosebud
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07/25/21 04:04pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Breaks and 12V system
OK, I've got a 2006 National SeabreezeLX, Ford F53 with the V-10. Today while driving 65mph on I-95 I lost all 12V and the engine died. I was able to get it to the berm, and troubleshooting showed the altenator died. So I fired up the Genny, and in a few minutes I had 12V to the Chassis battery and continued on, knowing that when we get to NY in a few days a new altenator is in my future.
However, my brakes were marginal when the engine died. So the question - what do I do if that were to happen again when I'm going down an incline in the mountains? When the engine dies power steering is lost as well.
Any thoughts?
Al
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FloridaRosebud
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07/24/21 07:16pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Towing Capacity
...I guess I will learn soon enough if my decision was the right one and I can always sell the dolly and go 4 down at any time if it turns out to be the wrong decision.
That is sort of what I did. Did the tow dolly thing for a while when first got the Motorhome back in 2012. Only took one season (about a year) to learn it wasn't for me. Sold the dolly, traded the vehicle in for one that was flat towable, and went to flat towing.
That was about 8 years ago; have flat towed ever since.
At least in your case, if you do decide to go to flat towing, you won't have to trade vehicles. You'll already have the right vehicle for it. :)
If/when you do decide to go to flat towing, take a long, hard look at the Readybrake Elite tow bar. Can be had for around $1500, has built in braking, no need to spend another $1k on a totally separate braking system that you have to keep putting in and taking out. With a Readybrake setup, you can easily set things up completely for flat towing for half of that $6k that guy quoted you. Even with someone else doing the installation work.
So let me ask a question about the Readybrake. One of the reasons for a brake buddy (or whatever brand) is if the Toad becomes detached from the MH the brake buddy will apply the brakes to stop it (in theory). How does that part of the equation work with the Readybrake?
Al
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FloridaRosebud
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07/22/21 02:36pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Towing Capacity
Regarding flat tow vs. dolly tow, I spoke with one of the service guys awhile back at LaMesa where we are buying our Tiffin and he told me that it would cost around $6k for them to set up a vehicle for flat tow. The parts alone I priced out with Blue Ox and a Stealth brake system and that alone is $2900. The dolly I am looking at is $2250 with brakes and $450 shipping.
Yeah, that's way high. It cost me $1100 installed for the system on my car (Acadia), $1200 for tow bar, and less than $1000 for the brake buddy. So $6,000 is about twice what it should cost, and as others have said, WAY easier to flat tow than use a dolly or trailer.
Al
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FloridaRosebud
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07/21/21 03:00pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Towing Capacity
Yes, you need to weigh your MH and get, at a minimum, the front and rear axle weights. I have a 2006 National Seabreeze and have a 22,000/26,000 rating. My weight loaded (full water and load) is 18,980, so I'm 7,020 lbs under my max overall. However, my hitch is a class III hitch, but the manual/specs says I can only tow 5,000 lbs. My Acadia is 4,500 lbs so I'm good. As long as your loaded weight is 25,000 lbs or less you're good with what you have.
BTW - just because the class III hitch can be rated for 6,000 lbs (https://www.drawtite-hitches.com/learning_center/general-towing-classes) you should follow the manufacturers specs for your motorhome, as it's just not the hitch rating, but the hitch/frame combination.
Al
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FloridaRosebud
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07/13/21 06:52pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Toto tires
I have M-154 Toyos. Replaced Michelins, and, while I'm a Michelin guy for my cars (for at least 20 years) the Toyos ride and handle good. And are $100 (or more) per tire cheaper.
Al
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FloridaRosebud
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07/03/21 01:19pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Satalite tv
We stream from our phone and have a WeBoost cell signal booster. So far so good, and we get the same programs in the RV as we do at home for no additional money.
Al
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FloridaRosebud
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06/26/21 01:54pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: Can I use any 50 amp extension cord?
This is the female I used: https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/electrical-plumbing-lp-gas/rv-electrical-systems-and-accessories/plugs-connectors/power-grip-replacement_55-5002
Al
Good choice, and simple to get hold of. Price is right also.
Yeah, as I get older my grip is not as good, so having this style on both sides makes it far easier to connect and disconnect.
Al
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FloridaRosebud
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06/19/21 03:30am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?
Quick survey .... Put the walnut on top, or rout the drawer front out, and mount it flush? Whatta ya think?
I vote to route it out and install it flush.
I vote the same
Al
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FloridaRosebud
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06/19/21 03:28am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Can I use any 50 amp extension cord?
This is the female I used: https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/electrical-plumbing-lp-gas/rv-electrical-systems-and-accessories/plugs-connectors/power-grip-replacement_55-5002
Al
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FloridaRosebud
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06/18/21 10:18am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: F53 Rear Sway Bar Bushings: Wrong Size
E-Bay seller skuterdude makes and sells quality replacement bushings. Contact him and give him your measurements.
Yep, agree. I bought mine from him, and he is very knowledgable and helpful. Cost is minimal as well.
Al
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FloridaRosebud
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06/12/21 07:06pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Solar Panels
Well then, everything changes based on your specific application. Residential solar cells come in larger panels, so it's easier to get the amount of power you'll need. So the big question actually is battery storage. There are days when the sun doesn't shine there (not too many) and obviously you will have no solar generation at night. AFA panels, 6KW should work to keep a battery bank charged and run 2 A/C units. You will need enough battery capacity to get you through the night minimum. I would seriously consider hiring an engineer who has training in this area to put a system together for you. I'm in Florida (I'm an EE with training in this area) so I'm too far away and I don't do design projects. Just a warning - it will not be cheap.
Al
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FloridaRosebud
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05/27/21 08:03am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Need recommendation for a replacement inverter
Xantrex?Freedom is a piece of junk.Talk about junk.
Had and issue with one that was put in. The inverter malfunction several times, was less than 3 months old. Contacted the warranty number and told to drive to a advisor in Houston, turns out the advisor worked out of his garage at his house. He told me inso many words to pound sand. They do not back their products. Wa told that the Freedom inverter was junk by a lot of RV dealers.
Indeed, I'm having the same issue here in FL. The "service center" is a single guy in his garage over in the Tamp area. Took him 4 months to tell us a surge got it, so they are not covering the warranty. It failed the first week it was installed, and I was just traveling, not hooked up to any shore power. So stay away from them, they do not back their products.
Al
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FloridaRosebud
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05/03/21 06:15am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: gas mileage
My wife and I are headed up to Endless Caverns for a rally. With a 4500 pound toad and running the genny about 80% of the time my National SeaBreeze with the Ford V-10 got 7.1 mpg combined on the last 2 tanks....
Al
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FloridaRosebud
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04/11/21 04:47pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?
Over the years, and there have been many, I have made dozens of 'jigs' for projects and have them hanging all over the shop. Problem is, I have forgotten what some of them are/were for and how they were used.
Hahaha...I sooooo resemble that!
Al
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FloridaRosebud
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04/06/21 10:27am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Inverter/Converter
Honestly I prefer separate components for this very reason. For $150 (link above) you can have a converter to work alongside the inverter/charger that no longer charges. Put the higher rated charger money toward the new converter and just move forward. If the inverter stops inverting replace with a stand alone inverter and separate transfer switch. Either way I am sure you will be back on the road soon.
That is a great idea. And why I posted! Now if we can just get the inverter/converter back...:(
Al
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FloridaRosebud
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03/21/21 02:37pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Inverter/Converter
Again, I'm not asking folks to help me fix this. I just had the simple question in my OP about running just a charger for awhile based on my situation. I thought I was clear.Yes about any battery charger is fine to keep your battery up and use the RV is fine. I recommend 5+ amps rated if spending money but 20+ amps is better if you will be using the RV.
Sorry, we try to fix everything around here ;)
Everything is slow right now. I recently shipped a programmer for replacement. (not Xantrex) First class mail was 2-3 days actually took 28 days and then no access due to snow storm. Took another week. Then another 10 days to process and return. I feel your pain. Could ask for a tracking number.
We are guys, so fixing stuff is what we do!! I hear you about shipping, but you would at least think calls would be returned. AFA the charger, I have an 8 amp one I'm using (already had it in the garage) but on occasion it trips out (it's own internal protection) due to an overcurrent, so your 20amp suggestion is a good one. That might be the cheapest way to go until I can budget for a new inverter/converter. We are having our roof redone, so that's a large expense and kind of killed the budget this year.
At this stage of my life I tend to pay folks to do some things. I'm and EE, and have always been someone who does my own work, including wiring a house. I've been all over that RV, and will be helping a friend upgrade his RV electrical system from 30 and to 50 amp. However, some stuff I'd rather pay someone you do, like changing out my fridge to a residential one. I haven't decided if I will do the inverter/converter myself. Depends on what my RV shop does for me. So we shall see.
Al
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FloridaRosebud
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03/21/21 01:39pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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