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RE: Router speeds OUT of our router

We have Spectrum service. A few months ago the told us we now have 300mbps service... They sent us a new modem. Ok, we were still getting, through my phone, 115mbps. Gen 7 Fire tablet is about 80mbps. The router is a Nighthawk 7800, about 2 1/2 years old, updated with the newest firmware. I installed a Genie app. Checking the speeds on the Netgear Genie app it says speeds out of the router is 238mbps. I am guessing the Netgear app has to be giving us the speeds out of the router and not out of the Spectrum modem? Because it cannot read speeds from the modem????? Correct. And the phone is a cheaper LG Stylo4... So, what may be holding us up? Spectrum SAYS the system is working correctly. Can the router be too old to pass the 238 to us? I am totally over my head understanding most of what all the parties have told us. Almost like saying that it is the other guys fault. Thank you Hate to tell you, WiFi speeds are dependent on a lot of things and not ALL WiFi radios built in work equally well. There are "standards" for WiFi, based off of the initial standard of 802.11 it started out at 1 mbps, superceeded by 2 mbps (which didn't talk to the old 1 mbps).. Then came 802.11g which offers 54 mbps.. 802.11n offered 108 mbps but it never really took off and I doubt many radio cards or APs really implemented it because there were several different standards (similar to "beta vs VHS" fight back in the 1980s) which were not compatible between them. Speed comes at a price, distance, signal strength, signal quality, interference all affects the speed of your wireless devices.. WiFi speed is autonegotiated on the fly depending on how strong the signal is. Your devices you mentioned have internal WiFi antennas, they typically are less than ideal which cuts down the distance you get and the speed you get. If you are getting 80 mbps-115 mbps on WiFi, be happy you are getting that, it isn't going to get any better. IF you want the max your Internet connection can offer you WILL need to connect your Laptop DIRECTLY through a wired Ethernet connection to your router and hopefully your router and laptop have a one gigibit connection.. There IS a huge difference in speed between 100 mbps and 1 gbps..
Gdetrailer 03/29/20 03:22pm Technology Corner
RE: Combined home computers reach exaflop levels

Hmm.. Allow unknown external programs to install and run in the background on your minimally secured PC.. What can possibly go wrong? A Hackers paradise! Makes the "IT" type of security guy in me cringe to think about it that folks are willing to give up personal privacy and security of their PC and data.. Folks, wake up! Powerful PCs are dirt cheap now days, we are not talking multi million dollar mainframes from the 1960s that had the computing power of a 4 function calculator.. Not to mention someone else using your data bandwidth.. $100,000 worth of two or even four 8 core processor servers wired internally and privately together via 10 gigabit network will end up with faster and more consistent results than employing millions of unsecured public PC idle processor time and week/poor Internet connections.. If modern "science" is relying on public unsecured processing to get things done it will take longer and will be a high security risk to both sides of the coin. Tread lightly..
Gdetrailer 03/29/20 01:10pm Technology Corner
RE: ? L E D taillights

the last time I was rear ended, it was due to total negligence of the other driver. that excuse of a brake light coming on quicker, sounds to me more like a reason to convince the wife that, "yes dear, it makes sense to spend $14.99 for a perfectly good bulb whereas the current 99 cent one is perfectly adequate. the requirement for an eye level brake light is more meaningful than a millisecond faster reaction. bumpy Do you just sit around and wait to disagree with people? I bet you're a miserable old crusty to be around. EVERY single post I see you on it's like you are fishing for an argument or a chance to be condescending. Eat a snickers dude. I just respond to BS when I see it. bumpy The OP's post - "If you have regular tail, stop, turm taillights, can they be changed over to plug & play lights " I don't see any BS. I see a question. Try to be helpful for a change or move on. the OPs question can easily be answered with a yes or no, and references/links to replacements. the BS comes in when the claim is made that the 10 microseconds quicker lighting up will save the world. a more effective accident avoidance would be to increase distance between you and the vehicle ahead. who here adheres to the one car length per 10 mph or whatever, from my observances nobody does. reaction times, tire/brake condition, etc. etc. have more effect IMHO. but please block me since my posts offend you. bumpy Not really wanting to get in between you two fighting but I do want to give a different point of view as to why I moved to LED tail lights. I spend a considerable amount of time commuting daily to work, 500 miles a week.. Over the years I have seen women putting makeup on at highway speeds, someone taking their "T" top off their car while driving, reading a newspaper and books while driving, texting while driving.. I have seen folks with bunch of bright electronic screens mounted to their windshield.. I have seen folks driving with the interior lights on at night.. I have experienced TAILGATORS nearly on a daily basis even at 70+ MPH, at those speeds they should be multiple car lengths behind you.. Nope, they are often so close I cannot see their headlights or front end and that is without a trailer attached. Distracted driving has been around for a long time, it is now even more so. So, if a huge BRIGHT WALL of red tailights gives me a slight advantage that someone driving stupidly distracted happens to see that bright wall of lights in time to react and prevent a disaster I WILL TAKE IT. Simply put, I (and YES YOU BUMPY) do not have control over OTHER DRIVERS and what they do. We cannot keep them from TAILGATING, driving distracted or not even driving (autopilots), we can only WARN THEM that driving conditions in front of them are changing (Tail lights). I will take even a microsecond advantage (the speed LEDs light up faster than a incadescent bulb) if that is what it takes for me to avoid someone driving into me from the rear. LEDs do react faster, they are brighter when done correctly and you can really see the difference.. Just don't buy them solely for life, I have had to replace lots of LED modules and they did not have the 100,000 hrs that was claimed (11 yrs of continuous light).
Gdetrailer 03/29/20 12:11pm Tech Issues
RE: Be Kind!

Gdetrailer _ That is a wonderful bit of sunshine. Where did you get it. If appropriate would like to send it along myself. Thanks, Maddog Sure, no problem. You can find it in the following link You can find that and more at
Gdetrailer 03/29/20 08:22am General RVing Issues
RE: Be Kind!

How about some sunshine to an otherwise gloomy time and place? That is what the OP was attempting to do.. Lot's of folks showing acts of kindness makes the place a lot friendlier!
Gdetrailer 03/28/20 09:01pm General RVing Issues
RE: Be Kind!

Did I post something wrong. If I did I certainly didn’t mean too....Sorry....Mike I didn't see anything wrong with you posted.. It was positive, it was a nice gesture, really did not contain any virus "news" or "health" related content. Don't often see positive posts anymore so I think it was very nice to see someone concerned about others well being. Unfortunately "cabin fever" is starting to make some folks much more cranky.. You will have this.. You deserve some applause.
Gdetrailer 03/28/20 03:12pm General RVing Issues
RE: How many amps does my inverter provide

Thanks for continuing the discussion Landyacht and Gdetrailer. I have a clarifying question. I do use one of the mentioned plug in adapters to charge my phone while driving. And yes over time the plug vibrates out and I have to push it back into the socket. And I agree this is not the best solution. I'm a bit confused though on the use of the USB port. In my rear power panel I used something like the picture below with the power wires attached to the rear. Are you guys saying that using this type of plug is also bad and should be avoided? Link to plug I used height=480 No, the "bad" discussion is is not with the "adapter" you are using, LandY's beef is with using a regular cig lighter plug in.. Here is a pix of the back of your 5V adapter.. height=300 width=300 What you selected is not the same as a cig adapter and is a permanent mounted hard wired device. What I will say though with your device they show the connection can be made with slide on connectors which you crimp the wire in the connector then slide the connector onto the device.. To me, those connectors are far, far worse of a connection since you now add a handmade crimp and a friction slide fit of the connector.. In your case, low enough wattage, most likely will not present a problem but once again adds potential of issues down the road. IF you have a good soldering iron and some rosin core solder for wire and some heatshrink wire I would skip the slide on connector route and directly solder the wires to the device if the terminals offer a small hole to thread the wire through. Gives better mechanical and electrical connection and results in best reliability. I would also suggest setting your outlet up with a on/off switch or at a minimum connect to a switched power source that only supplies power when vehicle key is on (ACC or Run).. Reason for this is this little outlet while it looks harmless WILL become an additional small Phantom draw from the battery.. If the vehicle sits for a long enough time the extra draw combined the vehicles electronics draw can flatten the starting battery.. That is why most newer vehicles now manage the cig lighter power ports via Body Control Module and will shut it off after 10 or 15 minutes after key off..
Gdetrailer 03/28/20 11:56am Tech Issues
RE: How many amps does my inverter provide

You say 80 watts is their continuous duty limitation, I say 60 .Many 12v receptacles will say 120 or 150 watts maximum, but this is wishful thinking and one best enjoy the smell of melting plastic if they are intending to ask them to pass this much current for more than a minute. In the olden days back when vehicles were built of all steel and the dash was all steel with a little hard plastic top, those cig lighter outlets were truely designed to handle up to 15A.. They had to, since every car which was equipped with one of those came with a cig lighter that you pushed in to heat and it would pop out when ready for you light your cig.. Those outlets were fused at 15A on the BACK of the outlet which is 180W for your information. Pop that fuse and you had to remove the outlet from the dash to replace. Yeah, I do have a 1970s car with one of those and I still have the cig lighter that goes in it.. Have used heavy spot lights in that along with those 1970s 12V vacuums (they made more noise than they did actual work), 50W Mobile two way radio telephone (think like "5 O" TV series when they wanted a phone patch), CBs, 50W 2mtr Ham radio equipment, .5 cu ft 12V absorbsion fridge and even used 12V air compressors to fill low tires.. I have never had burnt contacts in any of my vehicles or any other calamities that you mention. Keeping in mind that they were NEVER designed for 24/7/365 permanent high power use, they were designed for a quick high wattage burst then off (think as in how the old fashion cig lighter worked) they provide a universal power port which is readily available, easy to use and pretty much every vehicle in the world built since the 1990s come with at least one as a standard item. The issue you have had is not the socket but the PLUG, not all plugs are well designed and that IS the problem you have had.. Cheap plugs have very poorly designed negative contacts, often not much more than a light ga wire with barely enough spring load to prevent the plug from backing out.. The fix is easy, change the plug.. There are better plug designs which have a wide contact area on the negative contacts which have a higher spring load.. Those do not backout easy and are often rated 15A or better. height=300 width=300 And for the record, a few years ago when "car PCs" were the rage and laptops were insanely priced, I built a poor mans car PC for my DD to use while traveling.. Found a low power system board with a 1.6ghz Atom processor (27W for the system board), 500 GB HD a 12" TV with VGA input and ran it off a 400W inverter.. All told the PC wattage with the TV monitor was just at 80W.. Yeah, didn't burn up the plug or outlet, didn't have any issues with PC quitting either..
Gdetrailer 03/28/20 09:59am Tech Issues
RE: ? L E D taillights

This is what I replaced the incandescent units with. I could have simply replaced the lamps with LED's but this was FAR BETTER! This is what I used on my 1984 Komfort, I can testify that they are super bright. However, the brightness comes with a cost.. Less life. Yep, I HAVE had to replace 3 modules out of 4 in less than 5 yrs of very little use compared to what they should last. I will say though the replacement modules so far have been better in life. Considering just how expensive these ones are they should outlast the RV life and buying individual replacements is super insanely priced. I would suggest buying an extra two bay "tail, turn, stop" ASSEMBLIES while you are at it so you have a set of spares to replace any module that quits while on the road. height=300 width=300 The two bay costs around $47-$50 and single "replacement" modules can cost $38-$40 each. You can also buy drop in plug and play replacements if you have the Bargman #84 frame.. height=300 width=300 Which run $25-$30 each.. You will not find these at your local Walmart so keeping a spare is a wise idea..
Gdetrailer 03/28/20 09:26am Tech Issues
RE: How many amps does my inverter provide

I recommend skipping the Ciggy plug whenever possible too, It is a horrible, contemptible, highly resistive electrical connection, that gets worse with age and the more current it is asked to pass. I've had one of the supposedly 'better' ciggy plug and mating receptacle buzz audibly when using a PWM dimmer on some leds, and could stop the whine/buzz simply by changing the pressure on the plug, but as soon as I let off it came back. There are USB receptacles designed to fit the same space as a ciggy plug 12v receptacle, This one shows Amps( @5vdc) as well as voltage reaching the plug. I considered posting about the built in USB charging ports but really didn't know exactly the OP's full intentions so ruled in favor of a Cig lighter plug style for ease of installation, portability and ease of replacement if it dies, not to mention fairly inexpensive. In reality, 12V to 5V USB chargers will not draw enough amperage to be a issue with burning or melting plug or socket contacts. I realize cig lighter outlet contacts are not all that great, but most vehicles have them built in and typically they work reasonably well provided you don't make a habit of drawing 80W or more from them Dual 2.4A 5V ports should be a max of 57W (approx 4.75A) which is below the max rating of most cig lighter outlets. Keep in mind, pretty much most of the time most devices will draw not much more than half amp to maybe 1.5A at 5V and even if it did draw 2A at 5V it would be a very short time when battery is fully depleted. So, unless you are attempting to run a high wattage inverter with a 80W or higher load a cig lighter port WILL work fine for most loads of less than 80W. In fact, most laptops now days come with 40W-60W power supplies so you can buy generic universal 12V to laptop power supplies (12V battery voltage in and 16V-21V output selected by the tip you install)up to 90W which will not have any issue with using a cig lighter port.. Like this. height=300 width=300 I HAVE done that on a i7 Quad core 2ghz processor 2 in 1 laptop/tablet with touch screen with a TB SSD drive (eats battery)and it worked flawlessly! I am not a fan of running a 12V to 120V inverter and then plug in a simple phone/tablet 5V battery charger.. Too many conversions = wasted energy in heat. Just not the right tool for phone charging.
Gdetrailer 03/27/20 05:05pm Tech Issues
RE: Electric black tank dump valve. Worth it?

I don't see where an electric valve would be more trouble free than a cable or direct mechanical manual valve.. They all wear out or have issues. Perhaps time to see if you could relocate valve to a easier to get to location in order to eliminate the cable? Alternate would be use a standard manual valve but attach a sturdy metal rod to the pull handle and bring that out to a location you can get to.. That would get rid of the flimsy cable setup..
Gdetrailer 03/24/20 06:47pm General RVing Issues
RE: How many amps does my inverter provide

Thanks all, I figured I was good but wanted to be sure. The inverter is only going to be powered by an ignition positive source to power a few phone chargers so I'm not too concerned about draining the battery. But it is good to know about the limitations. Why use a 12V to 120V inverter to go to 5V USB to charge a phone? You can go direct from 12V to 5V with one of these.. height=300 width=300 $10 for a 2.4A two USB port cig port charger.. HERE 2.4A will handle pretty much any phone or Tablet with ease. Save the inverter for much heavier 120V loads..
Gdetrailer 03/24/20 06:32pm Tech Issues
RE: insurance

I suspect Wayne is pretty much correct, just because it is "permanently" moored in that spot does not mean it has any insurable value to an insurance Company. RVs generally of that age are not worth more than the scrap value of the metal that is there so convincing an insurance Company to underwrite an insurance policy for a few thousand is going to be difficult and not to mention prohibitively expensive. To put this into perspective, my TT which is a 1984 model I purchased for $700 12 yrs ago. I put just under $4K into rebuilding it from water damage, it is still only worth $700 and it would be a hard sell at that price even though the water damaged wood and paneling has been removed and replaced. Unless the trailer park specifically requires you to have insurance liability coverage you might be able to get a "renters" policy to cover the CONTENTS ONLY.. But there may be occupancy requirements so ask questions.. Hate to say it, but if you paid more than a couple of thousand you may have paid too much even if it is pristine condition.
Gdetrailer 03/24/20 04:48pm Travel Trailers
RE: coronavirus...put it into perspective

Not to make light of the corona virus as I am sure more will die from it but.....this is for the United States in 2017 Number of deaths for leading causes of death: Heart disease: 647,457 Cancer: 599,108 Accidents (unintentional injuries): 169,936 Chronic lower respiratory diseases: 160,201 Stroke (cerebrovascular diseases): 146,383 Alzheimer’s disease: 121,404 Diabetes: 83,564 Influenza and Pneumonia: 55,672 Nephritis, nephrotic syndrome and nephrosis: 50,633 Intentional self-harm (suicide): 47,173 coronavirus: 298 so far So...try to stay away from crowds....but don,t panic...imo None of those have the ability to tank the economy like Covid-19 already has....none of those stand to tax the health care system to the max and overwhelm things to the point where health care professional will have to make a decision on who lives and who dies . People may not only loose their lives but the economic impact will also lose people their jobs, homes, savings, retirement savings, cars, trucks, rv' name it. Seems many folks are just too narrow minded and selfish to take it serious enough...........let's see you post again in 3 to 6 months and see if you've changed your attitude and perspective on things. What has "tanked" the "Economy" is FUD (Fear, Uncertainty, Doubt) which has more rapidly spread by not only Media outlets but by Internet forums like this. Daytrader's list has what is "Knowns" in life, we are all well aware of and used to. The big problem with "Covid" is it is not well know, it is a recent "jump" that humans have not been exposed to and some folks carry it with no symptoms, some get mild symptoms and some severe symptoms to the point of death. One can only take guesses (and that IS what all of the numbers being bantered around) to how many have it, how many have died from it and how many more it will affect and just how overwhelmed the Hospitals will be. FUD, that is the problem, not really so much COVID.. Best thing to do, is not panic (first part of "Pandemic") and to follow what your local Authorities ask you to do like stay at home, shelter in place..
Gdetrailer 03/21/20 03:21pm General RVing Issues
RE: Don't come to PA

maybe residential only means you can stay there but no hay rides or pool partys Umm, perhaps RESIDENT would be what they are getting at? In other words, you would have to be a RESIDENT of the campground or a Resident of PA and the campground.. I suspect that IF the campground is open year round (few in PA are) and you LIVED in that campground yr round (IE RESIDENT) you would be fine. However, the campground would not be allowed to accept new campers.. There IS always a loophole somewhere in most laws, I suspect if one was a full timer and just happened to be in the campground and had no other place to go they might be able to ask the campground to get an exception.. Reason, is "ESSENTIAL LIFE SUSTAINING BUSINESS" for the full timers who have no other place to go.. Yes, I work in a business which has been deemed Life sustaining since it is a Healthcare partner with Hospitals, my DW works at a company that provides certain materials used in medicines and DD works in a food store.. We ALL who are still working are making sacrifices and taking chances with our lives to ensure other folks lives are not impacted as bad.. Getting booze, guns, sports equipment, dining in fancy restaurants and RECREATIONAL CAMPING is not ESSENTIAL LIFE SUSTAINING BUSINESS..
Gdetrailer 03/21/20 02:17pm General RVing Issues

Our water has a pH of 7.8. It has some TDS around 200 ppm. My batteries last 7 years some longer than that. Get over your fear. YUP! The company I work for uses "city" water right out the spigot in all of our forklift batteries.. Used hard and put away wet at the end of the shift which can typically run 10 hrs per day.. I can only recall once when we had a forklift battery replacement in over 20 yrs of constant abuse (discharged to near flat then quick charged overnight for the next day shift).. Myself, I would not want to use my well water, HEAVY iron solids (looks like red mud), plugs my prefilter often before it gets to my softener system (brine backwash).. Just too much possiblilty of high mineral and salt content in my water. However, what I do use is simply ANY BOTTLED DRINKING water, yes, they fully remove all minerals and then add back in a touch of minerals for balancing taste, PH levels. Those mineral levels in Bottled drinking water will not substantially harm your batteries.. Allowing air to get to the plates will do more damage than the small amount of minerals in bottled drinking water. I can easily get 10 yrs of operation out of my GC batts just adding bottled drinking water. I cannot fathom as to why folks are buying and drinking pure distilled water, that has to taste terrible and it is not good for your body since it will not supply essential minerals in your diet you typically get from regular water. CAN YOU DRINK DISTILLED WATER
Gdetrailer 03/21/20 11:42am Tech Issues
RE: New Truck - Is My Math Right?

Get yourself a Sureline tongue scale. about $125.00 on E bay. Take the scale and some blocking along to look at trailers. Set the scale under the hitch and weigh it at the dealer. Then you can add for LP gas battery etc. Keep looking until you find one that will work. I use my scale all year long to check on the weight. We also use it on our race car trailers an for $10.00 and a beer or 2 we weigh other race rigs. Have fun and welcome to the forum. hussbuss, that is a real scary way of deciding what trailer to buy, it does not give you the complete picture of the trailer.. The problem with this is you will not get the ENTIRE "dry weight" of the trailer, you are only measuring the weight of the tongue as it sits on the dealer lot. Additionally the dealer lot most likely will not be level which will also affect the tongue weight. You really do not care what the dry weight is, go with the GVWR of the trailer, calculate 10% through 15% of the GVWR as the tongue weight and go from there. This way you are no longer GUESSING as to the weight of the trailer or tongue will end up being. You seasoned dry weight folks love to make this a more convoluted and confusing way of figuring out what you can tow because you want to "maximize" and "justify" the largest and heaviest trailer you can possibly drag with you.. For a newby to towing, dry weight is a sure way to end up with more trailer than the tow vehicle will be able to handle when fully outfitted with gear and ready for camping. As far as buying a $125 scale, yeah, you could do that, however you don't need pinpoint accuracy and even these dedicated tongue scales have accuracy problems (they MUST be sitting flat and level and still can vary a lot in readings). You CAN use your bathroom scales with a 4ft long 4x4 and some blocking.. Pretty much EVERYONE has some bathroom scales which could be used. Although I have not tried digital scales, they might work as long as you can lower the tongue fast enough without dropping the tongue to get the reading. Read HERE for a real good write up WITH photos to show you how it is done. Even old fashioned mechanical scales cost only $12 HERE and a 6ft 4x4 might run you $20, it does work and anyone can do it. So for less than $40 you have a multi use scale with enough accuracy for what you need.
Gdetrailer 03/21/20 10:00am Travel Trailers
RE: Manufacturers saving a few cents on wire

My comments in blue.. You've gone to the other extreme and it just adds to the confusion. Voltage drop is a product of wire resistance (it's gauge), wire length, and how much current you try and push though it. While you are technically correct, you are also omitting some facts. 12V systems are not the same as 120V systems. 12V systems have a very small range of acceptable voltage, 120V systems have a MUCH larger range of acceptable voltage. 120V systems acceptable voltage range is 108V - 135V, a range of 27V. 12V systems have a acceptable voltage range of 10.5V for a dead battery to 14.4-14.8V for max charging voltage. A range of only 4.3V! With a fully charged battery at rest you have 12.8V, three stage chargers use 13.2V as a "maintenance" charge which ONLY takes care of the self discharge of the battery, it does not recharge a depleted battery at 13.2V unless you are OK with a few milliamps of charge which would take weeks to months if at all to recharge.. To get some sort of meaningful charge rate you need 13.8V AT THE BATTERY and even that is only going to net you a few amps. Net result in any case is a severely discharged battery that never gets fully charged and severely reduces the life of said battery! Ever wonder why many folks get on the forum whining about constantly having bad battery issues? Yeah, this IS the reason, they are KILLING the batteries by UNDER CHARGING. Your size is great if you want to charge at 100amps/hour. Wrong, anyone with a modern multistage converter from 30A and higher CAN BENEFIT by upsizing the wire size well above what those 120V wire charts say. For the rest of us a 10amp/hour rate is more than adequate when plugged into shore power overnight. Wrong again. You are making bad assumptions, it is well known for BEST battery LIFE, it IS ALWAYS BEST TO RECHARGE THE BATTERY BACK TO FULL OR NEAR FULL AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. Trickle charging or even a 10Ahr recharge is not going to provide best battery life. I guess max battery life for you not much of a priority, must be nice to replace batteries often.. I easily get 10-11 yrs out of my batteries, they are not cheap to replace so care and feeding them is a priority to me. Just for the record any charging voltage over 13.5 will charge the battery. Wrong again, you NEED 13.8V AT THE BATTERY to effectively charge quickly. Even old school mechanical auto alternator regulators were SET to 13.8V, if you found one that was not 13.8 you either adjusted it or replaced it with an electronic regulator.. Anything less than 13.8V results in milliamps to perhaps a couple of amps depending on discharge depth. I will stand by my statement, GO LARGE OR DON'T BOTHER. In reality for the run lengths in some RVs which can easily be 40ft for both pos and neg 2ga, 1Ga or even 1/0ga is not excessive.
Gdetrailer 03/17/20 03:44pm Tech Issues
RE: Manufacturers saving a few cents on wire

Tell us what amp converter you have. With that, the length of the wire run (positive + negative) AND (an important AND) using a 3% voltage drop chart you can get the answer very quickly. At 12V, 3% drop is WAY too much loss, period. Folks need to stop propagating this bad information, those charts simply cannot be applied to 12V, they are designed for 120V AND HIGHER where 3% IS NOTHING TO LOSE! Example, 14.4V at your converter results in .432V drop at 3% so now your batteries are only seeing 13.968V which is nothing more than a trickle charge! Using 3% chart WILL result in disappointing results. Nope, you NEED to be shooting way below 1% which in my eyes results in an unacceptable loss of .144V at 14.4V which your batteries will only see 14.256V.. I used 1/0 and have less than 6ft for both pos and negative between my converter and batteries.. Go BIG or don't bother, otherwise your converter is nothing more than a trickle charger after the wire eats up all of your voltage in heat loss. On edit.. Found an online voltage calculator which WILL show you real results, much better than a chart.. Plug in 14.4V and you can change the current and wire size along with length.. HERE
Gdetrailer 03/16/20 05:13pm Tech Issues
RE: The Coronavirus

For all the people pooh-poohing the coronavirus and insisting it's no big deal, were you aware of the fact that in Italy there aren't enough breathing machines to treat all of the seriously ill, and doctors there are literally triaging their patients and deciding who they will treat and who they will let die? Article from the ATLANTIC web site: The Extraordinary Decisions Facing Italian Doctors There are now simply too many patients for each one of them to receive adequate care. March 11, 2020 Yascha Mounk Two weeks ago, Italy had 322 confirmed cases of the coronavirus. At that point, doctors in the country’s hospitals could lavish significant attention on each stricken patient. One week ago, Italy had 2,502 cases of the virus, which causes the disease known as COVID-19. At that point, doctors in the country’s hospitals could still perform the most lifesaving functions by artificially ventilating patients who experienced acute breathing difficulties. Today, Italy has 10,149 cases of the coronavirus. There are now simply too many patients for each one of them to receive adequate care. Doctors and nurses are unable to tend to everybody They lack machines to ventilate all those gasping for air. Now the Italian College of Anesthesia, Analgesia, Resuscitation and Intensive Care (SIAARTI) has published guidelines for the criteria that doctors and nurses should follow in these extraordinary circumstances. The document begins by likening the moral choices facing Italian doctors to the forms of wartime triage that are required in the field of “catastrophe medicine.” Instead of providing intensive care to all patients who need it, its authors suggest, it may become necessary to follow “the most widely shared criteria regarding distributive justice and the appropriate allocation of limited health resources.” The principle they settle upon is utilitarian. “Informed by the principle of maximizing benefits for the largest number,” they suggest that “the allocation criteria need to guarantee that those patients with the highest chance of therapeutic success will retain access to intensive care.” The authors, who are medical doctors, then deduce a set of concrete recommendations for how to manage these impossible choices, including this: “It may become necessary to establish an age limit for access to intensive care.” Those who are too old to have a high likelihood of recovery, or who have too low a number of “life-years” left even if they should survive, will be left to die. This sounds cruel, but the alternative, the document argues, is no better. “In case of a total saturation of resources, maintaining the criterion of ‘first come, first served’ would amount to a decision to exclude late-arriving patients from access to intensive care.” In addition to age, doctors and nurses are also advised to take a patient’s overall state of health into account: “The presence of comorbidities needs to be carefully evaluated.” This is in part because early studies of the virus seem to suggest that patients with serious preexisting health conditions are significantly more likely to die. But it is also because patients in a worse state of overall health could require a greater share of scarce resources to survive: “What might be a relatively short treatment course in healthier people could be longer and more resource-consuming in the case of older or more fragile patients.” These guidelines apply even to patients who require intensive care for reasons other than the coronavirus, because they too make demands on the same scarce medical resources. As the document clarifies, “These criteria apply to all patients in intensive care, not just those infected with CoVid-19.” My academic training is in political and moral philosophy. I have spent countless hours in fancy seminar rooms discussing abstract moral dilemmas like the so-called trolley problem. If a train is barreling toward five innocent people who are tied to the tracks, and I could divert it by pulling the lever, but at the cost of killing an innocent bystander, should I do it? Part of the point of all those discussions was, supposedly, to help professionals make difficult moral choices in real-world circumstances. If you are an overworked nurse battling a novel disease under the most desperate circumstances, and you simply cannot treat everyone, however hard you try, whose life should you save? Despite those years of theory, I must admit that I have no moral judgment to make about the extraordinary document published by those brave Italian doctors. I have not the first clue whether they are recommending the right or the wrong thing. But if Italy is in an impossible position, the obligation facing the United States is very clear: To arrest the crisis before the impossible becomes necessary. This means that our political leaders, the heads of business and private associations, and every one of us need to work together to accomplish two things: Radically expand the capacity of the country’s intensive-care units. And start engaging in extreme forms of social distancing. Cancel everything. Now. I hate to inform you that IF one is put on "breathing machine" and it has nothing to do with being put under for surgery in your diatribe it IS WAY TOO LATE in the game. Obviously you have never had any experience of just what it means to be put on a "breathing machine". First, they must Intubate you.. I suggest you read up on it.. INTUBATION In a nutshell they will sedate you, then insert a breathing tube through your mouth, you WILL continue to be sedated as long as your are on the machine.. They will periodically remove the tube and gradually wake you to see if you respond, if not you go under again and again and again. After one or two weeks of little or no improvement they MUST do a Tracheal (IE PERMANENT) Intubation and you will be fully sedated until your body gives up.. I HAVE had to make the hard decision for my Mom nearly 9 yrs ago to not do the Tracheal. It was the most cruel and inhuman thing that the medical world can do for you.. Sedate permanently, live like a vegetable until your body organs quit, yeah that sure is a life. OR no permanent Trach they sedate to ease the pain of dying and you can hear everything around you but can't communicate or move you and withhold food/fluid and basically starve and dehydrate your body to the point the body poisons its' self. I live with these scars of seeing my Mom wither away on a Hospital bed for two weeks.. It is folks like you and the media outlets whipping up everyone in such a frenzy that you cannot find a sheet of toilet paper, bottled water, meats, milk, breads and much more in the stores right now. Yes, there will be a lot of folks get very sick, there will be a lot of folks who never get sick and yes there will be some that get sick and never recover.. But, we should never live our lives in fear of these things, we came into the world with nothing, we were never promised to live a long life, we leave this world with nothing from this Earth, our body's will return the dust that we came from. We should be willing to lend a hand even if it means giving up our life in the process, that is what life is about, not hoarding toilet paper.
Gdetrailer 03/13/20 06:20pm RVing with Disabilities and General Health Issues
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