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RE: Axle Service

Speaking of prices, I needed 1 set of brake shoes last week to get me by on my snowmachine trailer. Typical 3500lb manual adjust Dexters. Trailer place nearby was $40.....$$$$40 for one set of shoes. 2 shoes, 1 wheel! Correct! Not to mention, generally is always a good idea to change both sides at the same time, otherwise you have one side that is well bedded in and one side that needs bedded in for best brake operation. That is why it generally has been said that it often is more economical over all to just buy new backing plates since you get all new parts including new magnets. Acutally not a bad deal considering you get 100% fresh new mechanical parts and everything is assembled. Just remove 4 nuts and the whole shebang falls off in your hand.. Over all a very quick change out.
Gdetrailer 03/08/21 08:42pm Travel Trailers
RE: Axle Service

I understand the cost of parts and retail cost of labor and for the work you're wanting/needing done, $750/axle isn't "bad." Sure you can buy all the parts you need for somewhere between $25 (for a couple tubes of grease, parts cleaner etc and $500 (new complete brake assemblies and bearings/seals), but you aren't planning on tearing it apart in your driveway and repairing it, so $500 (worst case) in parts marked up 100% + the better part of a days labor @$100+/hr = $1500 all in to replace everything but drums is about right. You can have the trailer place inspect and reuse parts, but bearings are cheap and not much savings to completely clean out old bearings vs popping in new. Brakes, provided they are in good working order, I would at a minimum replace the shoes. They may not be near worn out, but I just recently had a couple linings fall off the brake shoes on my 2005 trailer. Appears most are bonded not riveted. Basically, $1500 gets you everything new and your hands don't get greasy. From there you or the shop could choose to save some of the parts, but you're paying similar labor charges either way. RV dealer is a rip-off. Man, I am glad I don't live where you do. You can buy complete brake/backing plate assy's in left and right pairs for $95 HERE Two axles takes two sets of the above so $190 plus shipping for all four wheels. About $100 per drum (which gives you brand new bearings and seals) so four drums = $400 plus shipping.. So, to fully refresh all brakes, bearings and drums we are talking $600 plus shipping.. To replace all parts should take no more than 15 minutes per wheel just removing and slapping on all new parts.. Say 1 hr of labor at $150 per hr.. Most places do not "double" the cost of materials, more like adding about 25% on top of materials so call it $750 in materials and $150 in labor or $900 for all four wheels out the door cost.. However, I seriously doubt that full on replacement of brakes and drums will be needed.. Myself, I had to replace the backing plates a few yrs ago on a 30+ yr old TT and they WERE the ORIGINAL BRAKES! I suspect it will be more like just check and adjust the brakes and clean and repack the bearings so in reality, the only "parts" would be needed is maybe $40 in new seals and a few scoops of grease.. maybe 1-2 hrs of labor (2hrs if they are padding the bill).. Many auto repair shops typically charge less than $100 per wheel to "service" the brakes and sometimes you can catch a deal at $40 per wheel if you shop around.. Myself, it is an easy thing to do so I pull, check and adjust as needed instead of paying a mechanic..
Gdetrailer 03/08/21 01:42pm Travel Trailers
RE: HDMI from room to room

If you want wired, you can also use HDMI to Ethernet such as this Digital HDMI Extender By Single Cat 5E/6. A good option, Cat5 even with connectors on do not require a big hole although the "mini HDMI" end is about the same size as Cat5 ends.. Folks do need to be aware that some of these extenders are "passive" or draw power from the HDMI ports to avoid the need for external power supplies.. Passives and phantom ones that draw power from the HDMI ports tend to fail much easier than ones requiring an external supply.. Had this issue with connecting remote PCs to projectors mounted from the ceiling. Went through a few passive extender failures until I replaced with ones with external power supplies. The one 1492 posted does require the use of the included power supplies which should be more reliable.
Gdetrailer 03/08/21 12:15pm Technology Corner
RE: White Cap company

white cap Temecula CA
Gdetrailer 03/08/21 10:47am Tech Issues
RE: HDMI from room to room

I use this - wireless HDMI It worked great, no running of cables when that is hard to do. I had one on the trailer, I can turn the TV on Satellite and pick a channel, turn on the transmitter and go outside and watch the same program outside. The new trailer has a satellite plug outside so it is now just sitting in my garage collecting dust. Ouch, $250 MSRP seems a bit rich compared to a cable.. Drilling a hole in the wall and running $20 worth of cable would seem to be much more in line with OPs request.. Alternately as someone else mentioned, HDMI wall jacks can also be put in..
Gdetrailer 03/08/21 09:51am Technology Corner
RE: printer on the road

Is there a small laser that will stand up to road travel? I use an HP LaserJet 1102. I've had it since about 2012, maybe longer. Works flawless. Here's the current model of HP Compact Printer: HP LaserJet Pro M15w Printer HP M15 is a pretty small printer for sure.. height=300 width=300 However, be aware, since it is very compact, it does not have conventional paper tray with auto document feeder.. height=300 width=300 You will have to flip down the "paper tray" in the front and that becomes your paper tray.. Essentially operates like a "manual" paper feed on most printers.. height=300 width=300 height=300 width=300 If you can live with that, it seems to be a good choice!
Gdetrailer 03/08/21 08:54am Technology Corner
RE: HDMI from room to room

Does anyone have a solution for passing HDMI to HDMI cable from through a wall without having to drill a giant hole? I know I can convert it to a lower grade signal but I would like to keep the HDMI quality. I know there are expensive transmitter/receiver devices that can do this but I would rather stay cheap. Thanks There is a "mini HDMI" connector which would require a smaller hole that you can use.. AMAZON SEARCH You will of course need a mini HDMI to HDMI adapter to get the cable end back to standard HDMI size.. HERE
Gdetrailer 03/08/21 08:31am Technology Corner
RE: Axle Service

Boy, at those prices I could be a multi millionaire in a couple of months.. That is more than what it would cost to replace the entire axles! Shouldn't cost more that $50-$60 per wheel, tops.. First, nothing special about servicing trailer axle bearings, uses exact same procedures as any automobile wheel bearings as far as cleaning and regreasing the bearings. I learned how to service wheel bearings on 1970's cars, trailer drums and bearings are essentially one in the same as a drum system on older vehicles. SOOOO.. Call some AUTO REPAIR SHOPS, should be able to find at least one in your area that understands how to work on drum type brakes.. To give you a head start, HERE is a Yellowpages search for auto repair shops in Milwaukee area.. Never take a trailer to a RV/trailer dealer for this service, it will cost you an arm and leg..
Gdetrailer 03/08/21 08:17am Travel Trailers
RE: Best Roof Coating

Yes, you're going to get a lot of opinions. My vote is for Heng's Rubber Roof Coating. It goes on easily and needs no primer. Just wash the roof well before applying. I used 2 1/2 gallons to cover 30' of roof with two light coats. Heng's holds up well. Use Eternabond and Dicor Self Leveling Caulk for any seams or tears in the roof. Define "HOLDS UP WELL". 1 yr?? 2 yrs?? 3 yrs?? 5 yrs?? 10 yrs?? 15 yrs??? Is the "HOLDS UP WELL" just the "pretty blinding white" factor? If so, blinding white does not equal "HOLDING UP WELL"... It can look pretty and white but if in the end it cracks, wears thin or peels off or you have to reapply again, it failed to "HOLD UP WELL". RVrs seem to be totally obsessed with having a "blinding white roof" and are willing to spend a lot of time and money on keeping it blinding white. Slathering things on that roof also does not add real life to the roof, just prolongs the obvious issue a couple of yrs.. If you are really planning to hold on to the RV, fixing old cracked caulking is best plan than worrying about the color.. You don't see home owners painting sticks and bricks roofs, not sure why RVs get so obsessed with perfect white roofs.. They will get dirty, they will go grey to black as the roof wears and even if the roof goes 100% black as long as it sheds water it is 100% functional without slathering fixes in a can on it.
Gdetrailer 03/07/21 04:45pm Travel Trailers
RE: Best Roof Coating

Your gonna get a lot of opinions.. I tried Kool Seal, looked nice, lasted less than one yr and started to crack and look thin in places.. by yr two, it was pretty much worn off.. Yes, I cleaned, scrubbed, prepped and no it didn't last. In my case, I applied over a worn fiberglass roof, applied several coats. I will be very frank and honest about these liquid fixes in a can.. They are very temporary at best, and will require reapplication often.. They are as thin as paint, you simply cannot replace the thickness of the original roofing material.. If your roof has no rips, tears, cracks and it just doesn't look "pretty white" anymore, DON'T DO IT! Don't go there with liquid in the can fixes, you are just wasting your money and time. Your roof DOES NOT "have to be blinding white" to still function and absolutely nothing you can slather on it from a can is going to preserve it or give longer life. If your roof has some rips, tears, cracks, DON'T DO IT! The liquid fixes in a can will not have enough body to bridge and repair those issues and will fail. In my case and NEW roof over top of the old fiberglass was the only real fix because of cracks in the fiberglass that just defied staying repaired and the high cost of automotive grade paints being out of this world in cost.
Gdetrailer 03/07/21 11:06am Travel Trailers
RE: replacement air conditioner

I'd also rather have a ceiling cassette rather than a wall unit. Too bad it seems to be a niche product. Nothing like digging up "bones" on a old thread back from Sept 2020..
Gdetrailer 03/05/21 12:53pm Travel Trailers
RE: Trailering

And I can pull up examples of your preferred layout that I would never consider with an RV. I wouldn't make a habit of going there for other reasons (they tend to be madhouses)...but these guys have the layout you dislike but plenty of space. It's not uncommon to see 8-10 big RVs all fueling simultaneously. The issue with your example is they tightened everything up to fit a small land area, not the configuration. Fuel stations designed for "BIG RIGS" are NOT "EVERYWHERE". There are ZERO stations designed and built for "BIG RIGS" anywhere in my county. Why do you and others INSIST that "BIG RIG" stations are "EVERYWHERE"? To access a station designed and built for a "BIG RIG" in my case is a nice 50 minute one way drive to a different county where there is an old truck stop on a very busy Interstate. Not "EVERYONE" travels 100% on an "Interstate" where one may find the likes of "Flying J's".. I work in the real world, not some fantasy land where RVrs believe they are "BIG RIGs".. Not to mention, I WANT to leave those truck stops alone, truckers are "on the clock", they DON'T GET PAID if they are sitting still.. The average truck driver is getting paid by the mile, been that way for many yrs, you stop them, hold them up or delay them you are cutting into their pockets for take home pay. You the average RV owner are clogging up the truck drivers place to fuel up hurting them while you have a blast on them.. How considerate of you.. And yes, many fuel stations must work within the confines of their land. Land isn't cheap, busy places tend to have much higher land costs but I have a hint for you.. It ISN'T all about the "land", it is also about the station CLERK being able to see YOU the "customer" at the pumps.. Customers at the pumps tend to be much easier to see when islands are lined up with the station.. So, high crime rates can influence the layout.. You are more than welcome to use whatever layout you like, but myself having to backout into traffic after taking on those layouts, I will skip those in the future.. I am just pointing out that many stations with that layout do not have enough space between the pump islands and vehicle parking in front of the building.. In those cases, your option is to wait several hrs for all the cars to vacate or back out.
Gdetrailer 03/05/21 07:20am Travel Trailers
RE: NIKON imaging software (FREE)

Or you can use GIMP which is also a FREE image editor/manipulator which has a lot of powerful features similar to Photoshop.. " Introduction GIMP is an acronym for GNU Image Manipulation Program. It is a freely distributed program for such tasks as photo retouching, image composition and image authoring. The Free & Open Source Image Editor This is the official website of the GNU Image Manipulation Program (GIMP). GIMP is a cross-platform image editor available for GNU/Linux, OS X, Windows and more operating systems. It is free software, you can change its source code and distribute your changes. Whether you are a graphic designer, photographer, illustrator, or scientist, GIMP provides you with sophisticated tools to get your job done. You can further enhance your productivity with GIMP thanks to many customization options and 3rd party plugins." Works with W7, W8, W10 32bit and 64 bit..
Gdetrailer 03/04/21 08:00pm Technology Corner
RE: Trailering

Good tip, gdtrailer! My advice is to plan the exit for any gas station before you commit to enter. Getting in is often easy. Can you get out? If a station you find is like example 'X', take the hard path first. Or, I think a 3rd example as a variant of exhibit 'X', a gas station with a side road with perpendicular entrances. Yeah, I though perhaps a "bird's eye view" may illustrate the issue a bit clearer. In the case of this station, you could possibly use the outer pumps, but doing so will result in your rig/trailer taking up two pumps in order to keep from blocking traffic trying to get around the station.. Not to mention taking up two pumps is a less than "gentlemanly" thing to do.. And this one has their tanks placed near the top of pix between the extra parking and the cover over the pumps.. When they get fuel delivery truck it really jambs up the flow. Interestingly enough, that station is pretty modern, built maybe 8-10 yrs ago so it isn't always "old stations" that has that setup. Too many better access stations available, observe first, then decide if you can shoehorn it in and out safely.
Gdetrailer 03/04/21 01:50pm Travel Trailers
RE: Bluetooth Adjustable Converter?

Yes if my converter had that ability, I would use it It is one thing IF your RV came equipped with such gadget but a whole different thing if one just had to "upgrade" (buy a new more expensive) their converter just because they can control it via a "App" or remote control.. Some observations I have made over the yrs.. "new" and "improved" do not always go hand in hand. Over complicating things with extra "features" buttons, buzzers does not always mean it will be hassle free or reliable.. "Cutting edge" often means it doesn't work as well, sometimes not at all and often means more expensive for no reason at all. Somethings really work best using the K.I.S.S. method (Keep It Simple Silly). New Technology is "great" right up to the point it is no longer "supported".. Lots of Orphaned "products" and Apps and now days when a manufacturer decides they are dumping a product or App, the whole product stops functioning.. The "Nest" product is a good example where the original manufacturer sold out to a new buyer (Google), all the old legacy "Nest" products lost most of their highly touted functionality when the online servers they had to connect to were turned off by the new company (Google).. Making the legacy Nest products no longer "smart".. Oh, they would "function" as a plain dumb T stat but that was about it. If I really wanted to "monitor" my batteries, I would just put a simple Volt meter on them that could be mounted on a wall panel to see.. Cheap, effective and reliable.. Heck, RVs are so small it wouldn't take all that big of a display to be able to read it from the other end of my RV. Changing charging parameters, typically should not have to touch that once you set it for the batteries you are using so I don't see the need for that to be easily changed.
Gdetrailer 03/04/21 11:10am Tech Issues
RE: Trailering

Since some don't believe that the layout I don't like can be an issue, I wanted to post a pix of a local station that I don't dare pull a long trailer in, heck even a pickup truck can be a challenge to get out when this station is busy so I avoid it at all costs.. That station I added in green the orientation of the islands under the cover, islands are the full length of the cover, there is less than one car length between the end of the islands and the car parking spaces in front of the building.. You simply cannot make a turn with trailer in tow between the station building when the parking spaces are all filled.
Gdetrailer 03/04/21 10:10am Travel Trailers
RE: Trailering

Skip stations that have islands arraigned so traffic heads toward the station.. The illustration below should be helpful.. Often that results in extremely tight turns to get around the islands without hitting the station store.. Not to mention there is often a lot of vehicles parked in front of the busier stations and high amount of traffic to dodge. Something else to consider, you have to be aware of the steepness of the stations entrance and exits, longer trailers will bottom out much easier than short trailers.. So you need to watch for stations that have a gradual entrance and exit pitch. I have run into a few that hit the tongue jack AND the rear drag bars, scrapping both times.. Don't want to high center the trailer and be stuck half in traffic.. I often find the ones you show as good...undesirable. That configuration is often used when the station has limited land to work with. On the other hand, most modern stations with lots of space, use the find undesirable. Thoughts: - Fill up before hooking up when possible. - As others have said, look on Google Maps - Truck stops and rural stations as opposed to stations in urban areas are often more wide open. - Don't be afraid to wait for an end pump that's easier to get into. - Don't be afraid to have the copilot get out and back you up to get out. I have run into a lot of stations in crowded city area and small rural places that use the layout I "Xed" out.. Typically what I have noticed is they do not give enough space between the islands and station building, if there are no cars parked in front of the building it would be easily doable but as with my luck, every time I have encountered that layout the station is plug full busy.. The layout I prefer, I simply pull into the farthest island away from the station so typically I can just pull in without needing to backup due to folks parking in front of the station.. And yes, more than once I have been burned by the station layouts I don't like.. More than once I have had to back out with traffic piling up behind me.. Even had to deal with a station that had a DQ drive thru window on the side of the station that was packed and the only way to get out of that station was to sit there and wait for the drive thru traffic to go away so I could drive around the back of the building or back a 1/4 mile backwards back onto a busy highway.. Yeah, that station IS marked off on my maps to never stop at.. Wasn't much of a problem when I had a 20ft TT, but when I moved to a 26ft TT (which is actaully 29.5ft in length including tongue) that station quickly became an issue.. I now look for stations with my preferred layout that have wide access to the road and shallow light slope in and out access.. Longer trailers can make small busy stations a challenge and especially in high traffic areas or small rural stations where they don't have much space to work with.
Gdetrailer 03/04/21 09:16am Travel Trailers
RE: Bluetooth Adjustable Converter?

Yet another "Iot" Internet of things product? Something else to break on the next firmware update? Nope. Too many glitchy half baked "app" products out there already.. I rather just go camping instead of micromanaging my batteries..
Gdetrailer 03/03/21 08:50pm Tech Issues
RE: Trailering

Skip stations that have islands arraigned so traffic heads toward the station.. The illustration below should be helpful.. Often that results in extremely tight turns to get around the islands without hitting the station store.. Not to mention there is often a lot of vehicles parked in front of the busier stations and high amount of traffic to dodge. Something else to consider, you have to be aware of the steepness of the stations entrance and exits, longer trailers will bottom out much easier than short trailers.. So you need to watch for stations that have a gradual entrance and exit pitch. I have run into a few that hit the tongue jack AND the rear drag bars, scrapping both times.. Don't want to high center the trailer and be stuck half in traffic..
Gdetrailer 03/03/21 08:45pm Travel Trailers
RE: Norcold Fridge on Propane Question

Really? What is an RM8,there is virtually no info on the net.And,seems you do not understand logic,when the thermostat calls for more cooling, the flame gets higher, and the increased flame makes the ammonia heater work harder, producing more potential to remove heat from the inside of the refrigerator.AND,as it appears you do nothave/own a fully electronic refrig. your symptoms are perfectly normal.same as if you do not take your foot off the gas pedal, when rushing downhill. :h So when the fridge is running on 120V instead of propane does the heating element receive more power to make it hotter. It seems someone here does not understand how an absorption fridge controls the temperature in the N306. :) No. BUT what DOES happen is the electric heating element is turned ON more than turned OFF. In other words, the control board regulates the heating element just like a PWM (pulse width modulation)control.. Fridge T stat calls for more cooling the heating element is turned on LONGER until the fridge T stat sees the correct temp.. In reality, the gas burner should also do the same, it would take some fancy variable regulator on the gas side to make a "variable flame".. I do know on older "pilot" type RV fridges they had a fixed pilot sized flame and when cooling was needed the gas valve would open creating a larger flame.. I had one of the older fridges with a pilot that didn't have electronic control board.. My current TT HAD a RV fridge with electronic control board, never got to see how that one worked since the cooling unit had ruptured before I bought the trailer.. And as far as the OPs temp swing issue, yeah, your gonna have to live with those large temp swings.. My first TT, that one would freeze everything in the fridge section solid over night (20s in the fridge section) when outside temps dropped to 70's and swing up to 50F or higher with the daytime temps in the upper 90's.. Some of the newer RV fridges have a makeshift T stat control, basically a thermistor attached to one of the cooling fins in the fridge section, you slide it up and down the fin to control the fridge temps.. No thermistor, no control you can adjust..
Gdetrailer 03/03/21 09:31am Tech Issues
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