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RE: Coupler repair/replacement

I have cut off and replaced some couplers, but a 10 year old trailer? Sounds like a lot of abuse, or more likely neglect. If it was mine, I would first spray it with WD-40, and see if it loosened. (Yes, there is better stuff, but most people have a can around) Most likely it will work better, and that will tell you to save some money. Remove the guts, clean up rust and caked lube. Re-lube, put back together, and adjust. BTW, if it is abuse, instead of neglect, might look at replacing with a eye, instead of coupler. Sounds more like a typical cheap coupler choice from the frame manufacturer to me rather than accusing the owner of neglect and abuse.. Not ALL couplers are of good quality and/or construction. Not ALL couplers can be torn apart and repaired or adjusted. Not ALL couplers will live 50 yrs or more.. One must set expectations a lot lower now days as there is a lot of cheap couplers on the market compared to 20, 30, 50 yrs ago.. OP may have simply run into one of those cheap couplers and the fix most likely is to have the old one cut off and a new one of better quality welded in place.
Gdetrailer 01/25/22 11:45am Travel Trailers
RE: Carhauler to RV

When I looked "utility" "cargo" "car hauler" have basically the same GVWR for comparable sizes. My 7x14 cargo has 7,000lb GVWR, once you get to 16 or 18 ft you can easily get a 10,000 GVWR and it goes up from their. I'm sure the OP knows about weights but many folks forget the 7k gvwr trailer doesn't have a 7000 lb of CCC. Example one of my flatbed car haulers has a 10000 lb gvwr but weighs 2640 lbs leaving around 7k lbs of CCC....steel frame trailers of course. The 18' 7k car hauler I had weighed 1520 lbs. I'm sure a cargo trailer frames are about the same construction. I will echo that, I have a 18ft 10K flatbed with beaver tail, registered at 10K GVW, empty it is 2,700 lbs.. On the flip side, my 1980s 26ft TT is 7K GVWR and empty weight is 4,500.. Plenty of cargo weight and has all of the standard RV items included in that weight.. Inspection mechanic mentioned that my flatbed is designed heavy enough that I could have registered it for 15K lbs.. But in doing so I would be required by the state to get medical card, required to have triangles and fire extinguisher and would be subject to random State Police pull overs and on spot inspection/weighing. Basically would have put me into commercial useage.. Personally, I looked at a lot of cargo trailers to do what the OP is considering.. To me, cost, weight and even looks all played a role in why I decided to not use on as a RV.. I didn't find cargo trailers to built any better than a RV, just different and that different meant that one would have to adapt and work around a lot of cargo trailer items. For around $2K, I found that I could have a custom trailer frame built to my specs, basically taking a open flatbed trailer design and not having decking installed. Now I would have a fully registered and licensable trailer frame. Then build my floor deck, walls and roof the way I wanted to. No restrictions like working around existing cargo trailer framing or decking. Just before I pulled the trigger on ordering the frame, I had found a old 1980s TT in the length I was wanting for $700.. The used TT price was right and gave me everything I needed including the frame and title.. It is shocking just how expensive RV doors and windows are if you are buying to retrofit.
Gdetrailer 01/24/22 09:25am Travel Trailers
RE: Carhauler to RV

Normal thread drift.. I looked at the idea of converting a cargo trailer, but really, they are even more expensive than a travel trailer of the same size. They are much heavier empty weight than a travel trailer of same size. Typically the smaller cargo trailers you would be considering are rather low head height unless you order one built to your specs. HERE is just one example.. " Standard Features Ramp Door w/ Spring Assist (no extension flap) White or Black metal exterior (.024) 12V Dome light with switch ST205 15? RADIAL tires Aerodynamic styling Non-powered roof vent Silver Mod Wheels Aluminum fenders w/lights LED Strip tail lights 32? Strap Hinge Side Door w/ Bar Lock 3/4? plywood floor/Painted Underneath Wall members 24? o.c. V-Nose with vertical ATP trim 3/8? OSB plywood sidewalls Floor crossmembers 24?o.c. 1×1? steel tube in walls and ceiling Roof members 24? o.c. 3500lb l/spring axles with 4? drop & Electric Brakes 75? Interior height Screwed metal exterior EZ Lube Hubs 2000 lb tongue jack Galvalume roof 24? Stoneguard on front 2×4? steel tube main rails 7-way Round elec. Plug/ 2 5/16? coupler" $4225.. for bare bones basic To get what you want with extra height and extra options, you will have to go with the "premium version" At $5225 and the extra height is additional charge on top of that.. By the time you option a cargo trailer out your going to be easily $8K-$9K and that is before you even get started with making it a travel trailer..
Gdetrailer 01/23/22 08:58pm Travel Trailers
RE: Old laptop working after 24+ hrs of fiddling

Next time try a Puppy Linux. They are very small, run very clean, available as 32 or 64 bit, and can run from a usb or cd/dvd. HDD is not needed, and they are priced right at as in Free. Only drawback is a couple of minor adjustments to the BIOS, which are reversable if you don't like them. May as well just tell people to buy a MAC.. Linux is not 100% the same as Windows and neither is a MAC.. Not everyone is cut out to deal with the lack of a polished GUI or lack of driver and software support and command line use to install programs that is the basis of Linux. Yes, there are some "look alike" software that is similar to software that runs on Windows but not all software is covered (IE no full on replacement). Can be fun to play with though.
Gdetrailer 01/23/22 01:08pm Technology Corner
RE: New RV USB plugs, what amperage are they?

The only problem with those is you have to have 120v power or you have no 5v power. For people who boondock, it is not an answer. OP didn't mention anything about boondocking. OP may not have mentioned boondocking but if one has a 5V USB charger, one would like it to work anytime and anywhere.. 120V outlets with USB chargers would be a real letdown if you happen to be anywhere there is no commercial power and you have to break out a gen to charge your 5V device.. Think of like this, pull over at a rest stop cor a couple hr nap and you want to charge a device.. 120V outlet with USB charger isn't going to work in this case.. 120V outlets with USB chargers would be sort of nice in your sticks and bricks provided you had them everywhere in the home.. To me, they are an expensive built in option and when the charger dies or is no longer sufficient for the newer devices, you must replace the entire outlet.. Dedicated USB chargers which pull directly from 12V battery would seem to be a much better way to go in a RV.. At home, I bought several USB chargers which have 12 USB plugins which have up to 3.5A on three ports.. So far, have only needed 4 of those ports at one time. In a RV, just use plug in 12V cig lighter styles, have one that has four charging ports which handles all of our stuff. May not look as pretty as a built in, but it is portable and can be used in any 12V power port.
Gdetrailer 01/23/22 08:35am Tech Issues
RE: Old laptop working after 24+ hrs of fiddling

This is where a desktop PC would have an advantage for a longer lifespan as it's more readily upgrade-able. I would tend to agree. I prefer to build my own desktop PCs from ground up, less restrictive and much more flexible than OEM prebuilt or a laptop. Over the yrs I have been able to repurpose a lot of used MBs as my employer removed them from the field use for upgrades to newer MBs with faster processors.. Does mean that my PCs are not cutting edge but thats OK, have been playing with some i3s at 3.3Ghz on industrial MBs which have multiple HDMI outputs and even have a i7 at 4Ghz on an industrial MB with multiple HDMI outputs.. Plenty of speed for me and cost was just a few parts.. Those i3 processors I am playing with easily outperform any laptop with a i7 since most laptops the processors are low power mobile device processors which are speed limited below 2Ghz.. Upgrading the video card is another plus for desktop PCs, just plug in a upgrade card and allow drivers to install and you can vastly improve video performance over a laptop.. Kind of wish I would have grabbed a couple of the retired servers before I left the company.. Had some pretty nice Dells which had two 10 core processors plus 64GB of RAM and a nice hardware RAID controller with memory.. Add in a hopped up video card and be off to the races.. Laptops do have their place, they are nice when you need mobility and as long as one can live with some of the shortcomings (small screen, small keyboard slower processor limited RAM, limited quantity of HDs and in most cases now days no built in DVD or optical device) can be a OK substitute for a desktop.
Gdetrailer 01/22/22 10:59am Technology Corner
RE: New RV USB plugs, what amperage are they?

Just remember, rapid charging is convenient but very hard on batteries and will greatly reduce battery life. Granted, however for most devices charged via USB 5V the device it's self is already "obsolete" the day you bought it and it's useful life is not determined by the battery life but the software version and when the manufacturer decides to stop supporting the device via updates. Fair chance that your battery in the device will well outlast the device usefulness hardware and software wise and most folks now days must have the latest and greatest device which means trading them in as soon as the contract allows for another free (or greatly discounted) device and signs them up for another contract period (typically a 2 yr lock in)so the phone company is guaranteed to have that customers money and soul for the entire length of contract..
Gdetrailer 01/22/22 10:41am Tech Issues
RE: New RV USB plugs, what amperage are they?

OP here. I wasn't looking for a standard, just tell me what's currently installed. I've installed plenty of USB ports among many other things in RVs, so that's no big deal. I think the answer is no one knows...not even the manufacturer...buy the tester if you must know. ^^THIS^^ Or when you get the new RV plug your high current demand device in to charge. You will figure it out quickly if the device takes a long, long time to charge.. If charge time is comparable to your charger the device came with then the ports have sufficient power for you device to charge at normal speed. Pretty much all devices that use USB 5V to charge from have the capability to detect and auto negotiate the charging source capability. If it is not able to draw enough power it drops into a lower rate charge mode. Does not hurt the device, just means you might be waiting several hrs instead of 15 minutes to recharge. If you find it is taking a lot longer time to charge, then consider adding your own aftermarket higher current charging ports. In other words, don't let this concern make the choice of RVs for you.
Gdetrailer 01/22/22 09:03am Tech Issues
RE: CD player hookup

There is only one 12V hookup in that truck, and it is up by the windshield on the dash. I have to use that for my GPS. That truck has evolved way past my equipment. Thanks. Mike I hear you on this.. Never enough outlets for DD alone in the back in our vehicles.. But, that is why they make aftermarket power ports.. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51RUAVnr4eS._AC_SL1000_.jpg height=300 width=300 Found HERE for $8.. Find a good spot and drill a hole, run some wire and done. Walmart often carries a few aftermarket power ports to choose from that have a bracket that mounts with a couple of screws. I do this to all of my vehicles as the newer vehicles "manage" the power ports and turns them all off after 10 minutes when engine is turned off. Mounted one right under the drivers seat wired directly to the battery so I can plug in and run my fuel transfer pump (I carry a 15 gallon landscaper tank with extra gas) without the need of using the key..
Gdetrailer 01/22/22 08:53am Tech Issues
RE: Why consider 12v fridge for boondocking?

Not exactly. When traveling CG to CG, my fridge works just fine on 12 V, powered by what most use for charge line. I removed the propane because I filled a 20 lb tank, camped average 4 days a month for 3 years, and still had 15 lbs in the tank. Why in the world haul the tank? When going out in winter, I can load a tank or 3 in pickup with heater. I can beat that :B I have two 30 lb cylinders, have used my current TT for 12 yrs, only have had to refill ONE cylinder in those 12 yrs :C and yes, both cylinders are "out of date".. Thanks to my home fridge conversion. I still carry both cylinders since we do use the gas water heater and to take the chill off on some cool nights in the spring. As I see it, camping for 12yrs cost me one refill at $19 (about $1.58 per yr) instead of $19 per two yrs ($9.50 per yr)in our previous TT which had a absorbsion fridge..
Gdetrailer 01/21/22 04:20pm Travel Trailers
RE: Old laptop working after 24+ hrs of fiddling

... slow by modern standards but it works. Now that it is stable, do a backup ! Write down he license number. Find a "retail distribution" of your version of Windows. Feel free to over write he factory backup partition. You may have to manually install some drivers. Getting rid of "bloatware" makes a big difference. Install a SSD ! You will be amazed at how fast it will runs. Thanks but too much bother. All bloatware is gone, temp, recycle etc all cleaned out. It is what it is. Also install as much RAM as the motherboard will take. You will be amazed at how much better the PC performs. Ram and performance depends on the OS "Bit level" and if the MB BIOS can accept more Ram. Some older MBs may only give you 2GB to 4GB of Ram and or have limited slots. 32Bit OS versions (and yes it is very possible that one may have a 32bit OS on older hardware in Win7, Win8, Win10) can only access and use 3.2GB of the RAM, installing anything above that does absolutely nothing except wast your money. 64 bit OS can access and use memory above 3.2GB and if you have 4GB of RAM, it will most likely benefit SOME by adding in additional memory.. SSD drives can make a nice improvement but on real old hardware memory and SSD will have very limited benefits.
Gdetrailer 01/21/22 02:35pm Technology Corner
RE: CD player hookup

Hey Mike - Instead of using the USB ports for power, can you get a 12v cig lighter adapter for the CD player so you won't need the batteries? I tried that many many yrs ago (1990s), no dice for me.. Mike could most certainly give it a shot, may or may not work but if he has the 12V cig adapter it is worth a shot at no cost. Dry cells in super cold weather tend to fail quickly and rechargeables are a real drag to remember to recharge often or keep charged spares in the vehicle.. That is why I used the groundloop isolation transformers so I could use the cig lighter plug on a portable CD player.. The isolators are not a hassle, plug in and go, just a small expense upfront and if you are lucky might even find them in Walmart yet.. Otherwise Amazon has plenty to choose from..
Gdetrailer 01/21/22 02:08pm Tech Issues
RE: CD player hookup

I recently bought a 2019 Ram 2500 TCD and in the truck there is no CD player. I know I am an old timer. I have a Panasonic Cd player that I can hook into the auxiliary hookup and play through the radio. I also have USB ports that I found have 5.1 volts power. It would be nice to hook the external power port on the Panasonic that they have labeled for 4.5 volts to use for the power to not have to replace batteries. When I hooked a cord to it I got a loud hum and chickened out and pulled the plug. I did still have the batteries in the Panasonic though. What I want to know is can I do this without messing something up? Thanks. Mike Mike, you have the classic symptoms of a "ground loop" which in a nutshell comes from have two or more "grounds" that terminate at different points creating small currents to flow between those points. Typically the fix is to get the ground points to one central location, but in car stereo applications this is difficult to do. So, if one can't get the grounds to be the same potential, one must now find a way to isolate.. This is done by a isolation transformer on the audio jacks.. Old school method looked like this.. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/510Mw5sL9kL._AC_.jpg height=300 width=300 Found HERE Inside that box is two small 1:1 audio transformers (one for each channel) the transformers break the ground between the CD player and the car stereo.. The downside of the above is you need to use RCA to 1/8 stereo jack cables and it is very bulky.. Now days, they have streamlined this and you can get the isolators in a smaller more compact tube and has 1/8 stereo jacks in and out.. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51vb6EdOT8L._AC_SL1200_.jpg height=300 width=300 The downside of these very small isolators is the transformers are smaller and may roll off the Bass considerably enough to be noticeable per reviews HERE so you might wish to consider one of the larger isolators which you could remote mount somewhere hidden. Once you have isolated the audio ground then powering the CD player via USB jack on your radio or a dedicated 12V power cord for your player should now no longer have buzz and hum which wasn't in the music. I do miss having a CD player some, but personally have gotten used to ripping my CDs to music files and putting them on USB flash drives.. It is like having a huge juke box in your vehicle and as long as you separate each album in it's own folder it is very easy to navigate manually to each album you want to listen to.
Gdetrailer 01/21/22 09:11am Tech Issues
RE: Carhauler to RV

Yes, I have seen "cargo" trailers converted and used for camping and not just on ones own property.. I have seen them being used in campgrounds. I see a couple of problems with the idea. If you don't already have one laying around not being used, buying new or even used will cost you more upfront than a purpose built travel trailer.. Cargo trailers because of the nature of it's "universal loads" use often results in a substantially much heavier body and frame than is what is needed for camping use.. You will end up with a rig that weighs 25%-40% more than the same size camping trailer and that is with nothing inside the trailer. Purpose built camping trailers are designed to be camping trailers and not cargo haulers. It will ALWAYS look like a "cargo trailer" no matter what camouflage method you try, which can be an issue in some campgrounds which are touchy about looks. I at one time had looked at the idea of converting a cargo trailer until I saw the price tags of the trailers, windows, doors along with the weight factor.. Wasn't worth the hassle and cost to me.. I ended up finding a old used travel trailer in the length I was looking for for a mere $700, gave me frame and box with title, windows, doors, furnace, a/c, water heater, full tub with integrated surround, all three tanks and more other useful parts. I would do it again in a heartbeat but instead of removing and replacing the rotted wood framing and such I would cut the bolts and remove the top , sides and floor and start from scratch, much cheaper and quicker. For custom designed and built camping trailers, you could check with some of your local trailer builders that build custom horse trailers with living quarters.. They may be willing to adjust their designs a bit to expand the living quarters to the full length of the trailer.. Custom built no matter what you try, will result in a heavier and much, much more expensive RV.. For price and weight, it IS hard to beat the standardized assembly line of RV manufacturers. So if you were looking to do this on the cheap, you will be sadly disappointed unless you plan to string hammocks from wall to wall and have no windows or any other creature comforts.
Gdetrailer 01/21/22 08:20am Travel Trailers
RE: Air Compressor

Mine is the Porter Cable and I like it. I don't see why Craftsman won't be just as good. Be sure it is oil-free. The thing that speeds up the process is the PSI it runs at. A 150 PSI rated compressor actually generates about 125 PSI. When you have 98 PSI in your tire and the compressor only generates 125 PSI, the air flows slowly because it is only 27 PSI difference. That is why the tire airs up faster, at first, when it is flat. It has a 125 PSI difference. The pressure differential is greater so the air flows faster. If you truly want FAST, get a (more expensive) compressor with higher PSI ratings. I know there are 200 PSI compressors, and there may be others. Why oil free? Air purity is critical for many applications where even the tiniest drop of oil, or air contaminated with oil can cause product spoilage, product recall or damage production equipment. Gardner Denver article The amount of oil may not damage the water lines, but why take the chance when oil-free is easily obtainable? Umm, you do realize Gardner Denver is an industrial air compressor business whi happens to manufacture "oilless" aircompressors? Per your link in the about us section.. "Gardner Denver is a leading provider of mission-critical flow control and compression equipment and associated aftermarket parts, consumables and services, which it sells across multiple attractive end-markets within the industrial, energy and medical industries. Its broad and complete range of compressor, vacuum and blower products and services, along with its application expertise and over 160 years of engineering heritage, allows Gardner Denver to provide differentiated product and service offerings for its customers' specific uses." Of course, they ARE going to push "oiless" solutions as good QUALITY oiless compressors that last a long time are not cheap. It is a crummy commercial! For the consumer end of things, oiless compressors are typically cheaply built rubber diaphragm compressors which are not going to have very much CFM of air flow, often will have a lower working pressure and a much shorter life. Now if you happen to find a oiless piston compressor (often found in 12V and cheap 120V type compressors) they have a short duty cycle time and then you have to give them time to rest and cool down and over all the life of piston oiless compressors are much shorter than ones that use oil.. Oilless compressors are not required for airing tires and with a couple of simple and effective air/water filters in place plenty safe to use with clearing water out of your water system for winter storage. The main downside to oil type compressors is they must be stored upright.
Gdetrailer 01/19/22 10:43am Tech Issues
RE: Ford V10 - 5 Star Tuning

I had an '08 F250 with a 5 Star tune. Small increase in power, but the biggest benefit was the shift strategy they did for me and later for others. Stock it would shift into OD any time you let off the throttle for a second or two. Really annoying. Mike set mine up so that in TH it would not shift into OD until about 65 mph. Since I seldom towed that fast it stayed in direct, where it needed to be when towing heavy. I probably would have traded the rig off if not for that tune. Could not stand towing with it stock. Comparing apples to oranges.. OP has a very heavy MH (like hauling 3-4 of your F250s on it's back) and a much newer V10 which because it is in a MH is "derated" for HD use and longevity. It will already have a shifting strategy more suited for it's application and it isn't going to burn tires off at the stop lights. OPs planning to try USING the T/H feature built in (which they most likely were not using) and see if that helps some. A wise move and I concur with OPs decision, Ford has a pretty spot on dialed in T/H which does deliver a good result as long as you are not planning to hole shot a Corvette. Not sure as to why you were concerned about "over drive" (which does not really exist now days). These are not the same as the old "three speed transmission with O/D and designed from ground up to handle a lot of upshift/downshift.. Ford has really stepped up to the plate on the modern transmissions and are dead on reliable unless you do something dumb like altering shifting strategies which affects the pressures on the clutch pack and bands.. One must ask the question, is 5 star going to step up to the plate and pay to have your transmission removed, repaired, reinstalled at no cost to you if they boffed the program? That's a $4K-$5K gamble..
Gdetrailer 01/19/22 07:53am Tech Issues
RE: Install drivers in guest VM

Depending on your Host OS and USB hardware on your PC, this can be a bit complicated and may or may not work in all situations especially with Win10 which is a whole nuther beats to deal with. HERE is a question about what you are asking in Win10 Host. Keep in mind that question was from 2016 when system boards came standard with Legacy USB2.0 ports and hubs hardware plus a USB3 port. Fast forward to 2018-19 and many MB manufacturers started stripping out the Legacy USB2 ports and Hubs hardware and the system boards now have only USB3 ports.. And just because you might have a white USB port on these newer PCs, it does not mean you have real USB2 hardware.. I have a few newer MBs which have no internal USB2 hardware but still has a couple of white USB ports.. This starts a whole new problem because there is no native USB2 ports and hubs and you are now depending 100% on the USB3 drivers in Win10 to emulate backwards compatibility of USB1/2.. Win10 in this case uses a driver called Standard USB3.0/3.1 eXtensible Host Controller which serves as the port and hub driver. These are what I would call as "soft USB ports" and not real hardware which fouls up things when it comes to older USB legacy devices that may not have a new firmware update so Win10 can recognize the device. The USB1/2 emulation from USB3 only ports is often NOT "compatible" with OLDER HARDWARE like printers and scanners and the Win10 drivers block and ignore that device (scanners and printers I have found are especially a problem with USB3 only ports). If your Host blocks and shuts down the device on the USB3 port it is connected to, your Guest is going to have a very difficult time making the connection.. Not only when this happens, it often shuts down ALL of the USB ports (can't tell you how many times I lost USB mouse and keyboard during this process), could even be the USB3 driver crashing.. Pressing the power button was all I could do once I lost all USB devices like keyboard and mouse. Older MBs with native USB2 ports and hubs in theory are not as much as a problem.. In fact I added an PCI-e Legacy USB2 port card to a Win10 PC to solve the issue I had with my Win10 randomly working or not working with an older printer/scanner.. Ironically OLDER OS like Win7 had zero issues recognizing the older printer/scanner using the same MB, but for Win7 there was a specific USB3 eXtensible Host Controller driver which was not written by or supplied by Microsoft, it was written and supplied by Intel specifically for that MB (the MB has Intel chipset).. Win10, Intel supplied MS with the bare metal basic GENERIC USB3 driver, MS did their thing to the driver and the problem is their driver which you cannot override. While MS most likely will call this a "feature", I call it broken.. My fix was to add in a dedicated USB2 port hardware, but if you have say a laptop and not a desktop like I was working on, you are pretty much up the creek.. Not to mention, Older legacy USB2 port cards are as scarce as hens teeth now.. I was able to purchase the only one I could find for a spare and won't be long and even that supply will dry up.. Using a different Host OS like Linux most likely will get you round the difficulties of a USB3 only port as long as you have a driver for that USB3 port.
Gdetrailer 01/17/22 12:56pm Technology Corner
RE: DVD player Setup

So many settings, forgot- TV (Jenson) set to be TV. A modulator is antique tech which, since I am also antique am most familiar with in early computer days. Computer output was set to a device that modulated it into a signal you could view on your TV. I am somewhat surprised this is in a 2014 RV but it worked - until it didnt It "works" but perhaps consider connecting via the AV cables to your TV instead of using the antenna input. Depending on the age of your DVD player this can be accomplished in several ways. Since you are using a modulator you can take the RCA cables that plug into the modulator and plug those directly into your TV. Those are composite video and left and right audio. Plug the RCA connector which is colored yellow into the composite video jack marked yellow and the red and white RCA colored cables go into the red and white audio jacks (those are your audio). On the TV, you should have a button on the remote which will be marked input, press that and it should give you a list of your TVs inputs. Select composite video input and done.. Then to go back to the tuner select tuner from that input button.. Each TV manufacture labels things a bit different and if you would like better instructions post the model of the TV and we may be able to find the manual and give better help. Newer TVs and DVD players no longer have the analog inputs, instead everything is done digitally through HDMI inputs and cables.. The advantage of direct input is you will get a much sharper picture and better audio over the analog RF modulator and is very worth while the time to set it up.
Gdetrailer 01/16/22 03:28pm Technology Corner
RE: DVD player Setup

First question: What's a modulator? How old, and what brand, is the TV? Did you go to "Source/Input/" to select the input for the DVD? OP was using a analog RF modulator which takes the analog composite video and analog audio and creates a analog TV channel (IE modulated RF channel). Then the OP connected the output of the modulator to the TV antenna input. To get the Analog RF channel to show up on the TV the OP would need to set the TV to "AIR" or "ANTENNA" in the setup menu. Once the tuner has been set to "AIR" or "ANTENNA" they should be back to normal. But if they had rescanned the TV with the modulator off it may have been removed from the channel list and the OP would need to either manually add the channel or do a rescan with the modulator on. Slight possibility is the OP may have connected the modulator incorrectly (IE antenna on the RF output side and the TV to the Antenna input side which could explain why they are not seeing the DVD player. They are not using analog AV inputs if they are using a modulator, only the RF input of the TV.
Gdetrailer 01/16/22 03:14pm Technology Corner
RE: 3d printers for making stuff for the RV

Company I used to work at used 3d printing for proof of concept and engineering mockups for some of their new products.. Works great for that. However, strength and desired finish can be less than stellar at times since the plastic is applied in layers rather than all at once. Because of that, they had actual traditional injection molds made for actual production runs for parts that strength and looks were critical. But, hey, you have it, you like it, may as well use it. it depends on the type of filiment you use and the orentation you print it in, you can build it strong. injection molding it more for the high capasity and speed. 3d printers are not known for knocing out the parts and in that world time is money. I have only don't a couple prints on mine so far. its working great, but I am waiting for a few upgrades to come in then I have to dial it in all over.. Speed, type of filament, thickness of each layer all play a part in the final outcome in finish and strength. For one of the prototype printouts I have worked with, they may have used larger, thicker slices because the main part was pretty large at a little over 2ft x 2ft and 8" tall for the main body. We were tasked with the job of stuffing the box with a micro ATX system board, several power supplies, a scale, a touch screen monitor some imaging cameras with lots and lots of wiring. Screw holes that were supposed to mount many of the items inside the box easily stripped out, often would not hold things in place. Had to be careful on how you handled the box as it was very easy to crack the box and the device would have to be torn apart and the box scrapped. For the actual production runs, the engineers moved to a injection molded setup and had thread brass nuts embbeded in the plastic.. Much better strength and once we were no longer attempting to screw directly into the plastic the screw issue was gone.. Small items, strength and speed become a moot point.
Gdetrailer 01/16/22 11:10am Tech Issues
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