Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Search
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'Gdetrailer' found 519 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 26  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Latest Dish News Blackout ???

Except for the millions of us that are too far from any broadcasting towers to receive OTA. Chuck For yrs, I had a brother that lived in extreme rural VT.. Only got two stations and one was from NY and he had antenna on 40ft of mast to get that.. His family survived without "TV" and did OTHER things with their life than sit and watch all of that junk the "networks" foist on people as "entertainment". I personally have zero use for the "big three" networks, their news is garbage and their programming is garbage. Heck I only watch one local channel just for the "weather" then turn it off but yet I CAN get the SAME weather reports via Internet without the use of a TV.. Most of the big three networks now days do stream their news.. and I have no use for watching sports or "made for TV" reality shows. And by the way, IF you use a better antenna than a RV antenna, you will find a lot more stations even in the middle of "no where". My sticks and bricks is 60 miles from the nearest OTA broadcast tower and with a 8ft long antenna mounted 10 ft above the ground with a 20 DB gain preamp I can get well over 30 different OTA channels plus the sub channels.
Gdetrailer 11/27/20 03:11pm Technology Corner
RE: Convert Pilot WH to Electric Start?

Stay with the standard "pilot light".. Pilots are dependable, less hassle over "auto light" systems and not to mention retrofiting existing pilot type to electronic ignition is going to require a lot of expensive parts, gas valve, controller board, and any safety parts.. And then you will have additional 12V wiring and now a circuit board which will add to your 12V battery load.. Yes, wind can put out a pilot only but I would rather have that happen once instead of having the tank attempt to relight multiple times under windy conditions (snap, snap, POOF).. If you can find one, there was a "reignighter kit" which you could add on to a Suburban Pilot only model.. Not sure how well those work and it looks like they may be out of production now days.. HERE Found a Ebay listing for one NOS.. HERE
Gdetrailer 11/27/20 02:55pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar panel

I recommend larger 24 volt home panels in series. Find some local surplus as shipping is expensive for these oversize items. Shop by price per watt as these are just a commodity and will perform fine and out last the RV. Those 24V panels WILL need a MPPT type of solar charge controller, more expensive than non-MPPT. The only "advantage" to 24V panels and MPPT controller is you can use light ga wire from panels to controller.. You can also run "12V" panels in series but in reality not really much advantage..
Gdetrailer 11/27/20 02:30pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar panel

Solar panels now days are so cheap and pretty much all of them are imported from China, I would say, find the lowest cost per watt and roll with that. Looking for specific name brands on these is going to waste your budget and time.. There are a lot of name brand loyalists here and they won't be real happy about my suggestion.. You will also need a solar controller, buy one that has plenty of capability up front, 20A-30A is a good start for 200W-300W worth of panels. HERE is a Amazon search that will get you started.. Make sure the panels will fit you space before purchasing, 100W panels tend to be pretty long (4 ft).. You might also wish to consider what your goals are like 100% off the grid, part time weekender off the grid and so on, makes a difference in your application.. Batteries also play a roll, long weekend warrior, single group 24 or 27 even with several hundred watts worth of panel isn't going to cut it..
Gdetrailer 11/27/20 01:31pm Tech Issues
RE: Latest Dish News Blackout ???

The FCC or Congress could stop these retransmission disputes from using the viewers as hostages by allowing the service providers to use out of market stations during blackouts. :R You do realize that FCC AND Congress ALLOWED this to happen by changing the rules/laws to allow OTA TV stations to DEMAND "payment" to those stations in order for Cable AND Satellite providers to be able to rebroadcast those Stations? Station owners felt they were being "cheated" out of revenue as Cable and Sat markets grew and lobbied to get a ruling in favor of the TV station owners.. Additionally, you do realize that in most areas of the US you CAN also BYPASS the dish or cable and view the OTA channels DIRECTLY without the middle man? Just takes a OTA antenna and flipping your TV to OTA channels.. Not impossible and you WILL get a much better pix in full HD (you only get SD OTA channel quality on Dish).. Not to mention using OTA you get the additional SUBCHANNELS of each OTA broadcast channel.. Dish does not provide those channels and I suspect neither does Direct or most cable systems..
Gdetrailer 11/27/20 12:43pm Technology Corner
RE: Drawer latches

For drawers, the easy fix is to add a little block of wood or piece of stiff metal UNDER the drawer provided your drawer has enough up/down slop.. Here is a pix of my drawers.. https://i.imgur.com/c0Ti284l.jpg In my case, I used a piece of aluminum which I bent to create a small ramp on one side. Push the drawer in and the metal ramp contacts the bottom of cabinet and pushes drawer up slightly. Once past the metal the drawer drops down and the metal now holds the drawer in. To open drawer, you simply pull up slightly while pulling the drawer out. Pulling up allows the metal piece to go past the bottom of cabinet front. This works like a charm and was modeled after my Dads old 1960s TC which used similar idea. For your cabinet doors, go with some REAL catches, I would highly recommend using Double roller catches.. These babies WILL hold even under the worst possible road conditions and will take considerable amount of pull to open them. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51yOpFry2NL._AC_SL1024_.jpg height=300 width=300 You most likely will need to add a bit of blocking at the door edge but they will hold far better than magnetic catches. The only downside to these is they do have that little metal clasp that you can scrape a hand or arm on but at least my doors don't fly open.. Those can be found at Home Depot/Lowes or Amazon..
Gdetrailer 11/27/20 12:30pm General RVing Issues
RE: Very Frustrated

There are just getting to be very very VERY few places that repair starters, alternators, radiators, things of that nature. Those repair shops are few and far between, as well as the availability of parts to repair such things. It's a changing world. Buy cheap ****, throw it away. It was bound to happen. When I first got into the workforce in the mid 1980s, I spent the first 4 yrs repairing pretty much any and all consumer electronics like TVs, Stereos, VCRS, DVD players.. The last shop I worked for closed when I got a real hourly paying job repairing computerized POS equipment.. Cheap electronics killed the TV repairman. If you couldn't charge $50 per unit and repair a lot of them you were going to go broke. No one wanted to pay $50 to have a 4 yr old 19" TV when for $100 they could buy a newer and much larger screen. Every type of repair requires specialized tools and training and some like automotive work requires considerable retraining and new tools on a yearly basis. Granted, alternator, starter and even radiator repairs are not rocket science but with the Internet and the flood of lower cost imported parts you are going to have a difficult time making enough profit to keep the lights on.. And yes, I watched my Dad refurb starters, alternators and even repair a old few radiators with pin holes.. But, I don't have the lathe he had to turn down the commutator, getting brushes now days requires ordering them from the Internet, even bearings get be a drag to get, alternators now days has regulators built in and radiators, well are not a DIY repair due to them being aluminum cores with a plastic tank with a gasket crimped together.. Most likely you will have more than $50 in parts along in a starter and more than $70 in parts in an alternator if you really were to fully rebuild them and I highly doubt anyone would be successful and recrimping a used aluminum radiator core to a nice new plastic tank without a lot of leaks (aluminum doesn't take well to be bent more than once).
Gdetrailer 11/27/20 08:29am Tech Issues
RE: Very Frustrated

It can be done DIY, but for the small price I paid a mechanic, somethings are not worth busting knuckles over to me. I don't mind wrenching, my Dad taught me a lot and my first line of defense has been to take on new challenges, but sometimes one must admit defeat.. That starter kicked my behind and that was on the first bolt I tried.. But, I was also forced to lay on my back, on a gravel driveway which also did not add help to the situation.. I don't give up easily but the idea of rounding more bolts in that area was not appealing to me.. Mechanic was able to get it towed to their shop, push it on a rack and be able to stand upright to work on it.. Makes a world of difference when you do not have to lay on your back. Mechanic ordered the starter, got the starter, removed old one, installed new one and I picked up the vehicle the next day. I didn't end up having to flush rust and dirt out of my eyes and as a bonus didn't give blood to "Christine" at the same time.. To me, A "win, win" situation.
Gdetrailer 11/25/20 09:30pm Tech Issues
RE: Dehumidifier overkill?

I have a dumb question and I swear I'm not trolling. Coming from the arid west, I don't understand what the issue is. I know from experience that I hate humidity combined with heat (yes, I'm talking to you Florida and Texas), but I don't understand the issue in the winter when it's cold. We have condensation on our windows sometimes in the morning, but it always goes away once we get up and warm the place up. How is the humidity affecting you all so much that you need dehumidifiers? What are the symptoms of heavy humidity in your RVs? first symptom is fogged windows. If you are in an area with moderate relative humidity, the window fogging may not be an issue. It may go away rather quickly once the inside temp rises. But get to a place where outside humidity is near 100% in the winter coupled with what humans add to the atmosphere inside and any use of stove/oven, and it becomes more than fogged windows, heavy fog on the windows, water at the bottom of the window. And it hangs around a long time, even all day without either ventilation or a dehumidifier. That's when our dehumidifier comes out. We have places we go where it can get below freezing at night and no window fogging, very low RH, other places where it's in the 50's at night and we have condensation problems. Fog on the inside windows even if it hangs around all day is not a big issue in cold outdoor temps. With single pane windows it IS to be expected and will happen anytime the outside temps are colder than the inside temps and you have high enough humidity inside to condense. What does become a problem is if the humidity level inside is so great that the ceiling and walls start condensing the moisture, then you have an issue. I would recommend getting a indoor thermometer with humidity reading before applying a dehumidifier. Cold air naturally cannot hold as much moisture as hot air does and in the winter it gets very difficult to keep ENOUGH moisture in your indoors. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71gF3I-QWgL._AC_SY355_.jpg height=300 width=300 HERE for $7 Generally you want 35%-45% RH indoors. Too little (under 35%) and you dry out your sinuses, dust (dust mites) gets airborne faster also and plain does not feel comfortable. Too much humidity (over 45%) and now mold growth becomes a real issue, sinuses can have issues and you get a sickly too hot/smothered feeling.. 35%-45% humidity WILL show up on single pane windows as fog or even condensation beads.. Now if you are talking doublepane windows condensing then you may have a problem to be concerned about.
Gdetrailer 11/25/20 11:39am General RVing Issues
RE: Mapping and GPS Recommendations Needed

You will be hard pressed to find a tablet for sale that doesn't include GPS. All mapping systems need to be plugged in unless you are driving only very short distances. How is it risky? Your worst case is to pull over and ask for directions...but really, you can always pull out your phone and check on google maps. Tablets are cheap, if you are worried about using it for something else taking the map off line...just leave one in the car as a dedicated GPS system. Even zoomed in, a scan of a paper map will never be as accurate or as up to date as an online mapping system. I've yet to see a paper map that indicates the lane I'm best choosing when entering a complicated interchange. Cheap tablets=junk. Pretty much ANYTHING under $180 in a Tablet is garbage, been there, done that. Not EVERY tablet has GPS radios built in, period. HAVE run into that, DW and DD have burned through many more tablets than I have with real PCs and a few of their tablets most certainly did not have GPS radios. Tablets go out of date, run out of manufacturer support pretty quickly. Android OS is nothing more than one huge "experiment" and is pretty bug laden. Tablet processors are weak "ARM" processors and Android has considerable amount of limitations. Then you go to all of these "App" developers, you toss the dice and take your chances with these Apps, they are often very buggy, have very limited QA.. Some work, some do not, some bring a lot of "ads" and other unwanted junk. And you are going to bet your life on GPS on a Tablet? Our several attempts with CoPilot on several different Tablets, we could not get it to recognize our rural area properly, seems our home moves and where a grocery store is, a farmers field, a church, a defunct railroad tunnel that has been closed for 30 yrs and all locations 2 miles or more away from our home.. Sometimes driving along on roads CoPilot would show us as driving a mile off the road.. No consistency to what it detected as our starting point or if it could locate us properly. And you want to bet your life on GPS on a Tablet? CoPilot would also lose it's mind when going in a tunnel, often taking minutes to reacquire sat signals on the other end.. A scan of a paper map HOLDs it's "accuracy" and is always there even when you have no cell signal or Wifi. Roads do not randomly change, appear, disappear over night so even a paper map from 10 yrs ago is still valid. Takes considerable amount of yrs of planning or building by DOT to change or add roads so paper maps tend to be a valid tool for many yrs. GPS maps must be continually updated since they started out with extremely old base maps (they didn't build the maps from scratch, they BOUGHT OLD MAPS, converted them into an electronic form)and over time they add in additional details as the map makers play catch up. There are also plenty of vast areas where GPS map info is non existent or totally incorrect which sends folks driving into farmers fields, into ponds, lakes or even old farmers roads into the middle of no where.. Not unusual for GPS to toss you onto very small roads with bridges or obstructions too low for a RV.. Have a bridge not far from my home that truckers using GPS seem to be attracted to, has been damaged multiple times.. I take one look at the size of the road and shake my head, no way I would take anything bigger than a automobile on that road.. As far as figuring out lane choices, that IS what the ROAD SIGNS ARE FOR! The DOT of every state has the responsibility to ensure the road signs are placed in an orderly fashion which will give you enough time at the POSTED SPEED LIMITS to notice, read and take proper action. I can't help if you or anyone else are not able to determine what lane to be in, I have not had that issue and have always gotten to my destination in fine fashion. GPS is not an excuse to toss paper maps and ignore road signs, it is nothing more than a extra tool in your trip to use alongside other methods. We PLAN our routes ahead of time, we use our paper maps and now days plenty of good online methods along with our paper maps. MAPQUEST gives you blow by blow directions and a map to follow.. Put in beginning point and destination and it will give you detailed directions to follow. You can then PRINT the directions and map. You can also snip the directions and map and save it as a JPG and put on your tablet or phone. Don't like Mapquest? Then try GOOGLEMAPS If I was ever going to consider GPS, it WOULD be a "dedicated" standalone GPS and not a Tablet with buggy OS and buggy software with buggy maps. You get what you pay for and there IS a reason standalone GPS units are more expensive.
Gdetrailer 11/25/20 11:01am Technology Corner
RE: GFCI not cooperating with me

Yes, Gdetrailer, my water heater is both electric and propane, and I have two GFI's - one over the sink, another in the bath... both won't reset, and both seem to be on the same circuit. Can plug in at home, but I'm not there... boondocking northern AZ Both won't reset pretty much rules out the GFCIs being the issue, highly doubtful that BOTH have had sudden failure at the exact same time. However, having two GFCIs on the same circuit (one upstream and one downstream) is not recommend. Suspect those will be on two separate circuit breakers. I suspect since you most likely have a factory inverter installed that there is a ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) that transfers some circuits to inverter when no shore power is present. In this setup, sometimes manufacturer will provide a separate small breaker panel for those inverter circuits which may give the appearance that both are on the same circuit from the main panel. I am not sure you are really going to be able to trouble shoot this while camping, may require a lot of work in the breaker panel to isolate circuits and in the end, it is possible that the inverter may be at fault.. Try unplugging everything from every outlet, if no joy, then try pulling the fridge 120V plug (typically located in the outside access area). If no joy, you will need to isolate the converter which may be hardwired in the main panel or could be plugged in.. If no joy or no converter, the converter may be built into the inverter which makes troubleshooting a bit difficult.. If no joy continues then you would have to remove and isolate every hot and neutral in the main breaker panel one at a time.. Not really something I would want to do while camping and the reason I mention needing to plug in to shore power to verify all systems are good to begin with.. Can you just plug an extension cord into the inverter for now and limp along?
Gdetrailer 11/25/20 09:07am Tech Issues
RE: Very Frustrated

Since it was a pickup in my case, mechanic was able to find a few open holes between radiator/grille and bumper.. MH chassis? May be not so easy, lots of junk going on in there, being MH mechanic is not for me. I believe a 13 mm six point socket IS recommended for this operation, 12 points do not have as much grip (less contact area) and you need as much contact area you can get.. I used a 6 point but since I didn't try the long extension route my ratchet was hitting the block or other obstructions which made it very difficult to keep in line with the bolt head. HERE is an article discussing the replacement on a 5.4. There are a couple of pictures which may help show you what you are up against. While that link discusses a F150 5.4, you mileage on how much space you have for wrenches varies a lot depending on yr and model. By the way, the top bolt, you cannot see, you have to feel for it.. While I would not say it is an impossible job to DIY, it is more of a pain in the rear, hands, arms and possibly eyes and a time killer. It can be DIY, but you are working in an extremely close place, top bolt cannot be seen and you will need a collection of different length extensions, possibly several different 13mm sockets (standard and deepwell), a universal swivel and a few bandaids for the leaks you will develop and if you are drinking man, a few six packs.. But all it takes is just rounding off one of the bolt heads to ruin your progress and your day and that is a real possibility.
Gdetrailer 11/25/20 08:40am Tech Issues
RE: Very Frustrated

Just curious about what makes this solenoid so difficult to replace once the starter is removed from the engine. Not disagreeing but I was thinking about how I used to remove the solenoid from my GM and Ford products and either install a new solenoid or sometimes just refinish the surface of the copper ring on the end. Are these starters different somehow? Yes I understand that not everyone wants to go to all this trouble especially if they are traveling. Was just thinking the fix could amount to either nothing or just the cost of a new solenoid. The key to this is the fact that you really, really must want to replace just the solenoid. To replace the solenoid, you MUST remove the starter. Unless you have attempted this on the modular engines (or any aluminum block) you simply will not fully understand the work you will go to to remove the starter. On this design, the bolts holding the starter in place are very close to obstructions making getting a socket firmly and squarely on the bolts a real challenge. I believe Ford has some special tools for this.. I can attest to the fact that unless you modify your socket (grind down the outside) to fit squarely on the bolt head, you most likely will round it off. I can attest that the aluminum block and steel bolts just don't backout easily without binding. Aluminum and steel are not the best of friends and then you add in water and in my case salt water form winter ice removal and you now have the perfect thread locker. I asked the mechanic that replaced mine how they were able to do the job... He pointed to a pile of extensions and told me that they use enough extensions to go out the front of the grill and bumper.. Once you go through this hassle, you may as well not only replace the solenoid but regrease/replace bearings, replace brushes, dress the commutator and the Bendix while you are at it.. You really do not want to have to revisit removal again. By the time you buy all the parts, put several hrs into refreshing the entire starter, you will have more cost than just replacing the starter and solenoid as a whole the first time. And heck when you can get a fully refurbed starter/solenoid with some sort of warranty for $80 why bother tearing it apart yourself? I really don't understand why the stubbornness of just wanting to replace one single part on the starter, when the solenoid goes bad, I can assure you the bearings will need serviced, the brushes will be worn and the commutator will need dressed.. Nothing like fixing this half you know what..
Gdetrailer 11/24/20 09:19pm Tech Issues
RE: Very Frustrated

Yeah, . . I agree with the above. Chances are you could get this fixed with less than $25 in parts and a few minutes of your time. Hopefully the OP will post what this cost. Chum lee If I remember correctly, our trucks it was around $250-$300 for parts and labor, plus the tow.. Rock Auto shows a rebuilt OEM starter for $85.. I don't begrudge a mechanic getting a couple hundred for their labor, round off one of those bolts and you ARE in a world of hurt. The $250-$300 in our case was money well spent.. I am sure the OP since they had a mobile repair tech change it would have spent a bit more. Now if I had taken ours to the Ford Dealer, that would be a $800-$1000 repair bill :E for sure Can't remember the last time I had something at a Ford dealer that didn't cost me less than $800.
Gdetrailer 11/24/20 06:15pm Tech Issues
RE: Converter Question

WOW that IOTA is a deal. I grabbed 1 to replace my WFCO junk. 30A is all I need. The IQ4 upgrade is $20 on Amazon Thanks for sharing There was an Iota about 12 years ago ( ISTR it was in Jaycos) that did not have the jack hole (whatever that is called) for the IQ4 (which used/uses the same jack hole for the booster jack they had.) So be sure this one has the place to plug in the jack if you want an IQ4 to go with it. They have a new range of IQ4s now, for different charging profiles you can choose from. Data sheet for this model HERE says it has the jack.. From the data sheet.. "Dual Voltage jack allows for manual selection between Normal and Absorption Phase charging as well as easy installation of the IQ4 Smart Charge Controller Can be used with the optional IQ Smart Charge Controller for automatic multi-stage charging to prevent battery sulfation and stratification" And directly from Goldmines own page.. "Note: This unit is not a smart charger without the purchase of an optional IQ-4 Smart Controllers." So, from everything I can tell, it will accept the IQ-4.. Although you are welcome to contact the vendor to confirm before ordering.. Actually was considering buying one myself, would make a real nice power supply for my Ham equipment plus the bonus of multi stage charging if I add a battery for backup purposes.. Dedicated 30A 12V power supplies do not come cheap..
Gdetrailer 11/24/20 01:48pm Tech Issues
RE: Reliable Walkie Talkie?

We have a couple of Midland GMRS/FRS radios. We have a couple more somewhere. The reed switches are cra3p on all of them. Easily damaged with a bit of thumb pressure. Range is supposedly about 35 miles, with lots of disclaimers. Wife and I tried for range in Indiana. There might have been a few buildings somewhere in the way. A little over a mile was it. In the woods etc don't expect but hundreds of feet, probably. Considering for a long time 2 meter radios.So much Information/Misinformation is out there. Prices in a couple of shops over from over $600.00 to over $1,000.00 for Motorolas and some others. Power is limited by small batteries and antennas and frequencies. A better model with larger battery on belt etc is available but cumbersome.VHS is allowed in Canada why not here instead of reserved for marine use? It would be a lot cheaper. I will spend a couple hundred maybe three hundred for two radios...with range..and reliability if I could identify them. There surely is someone here with experience not afraid to warranty, so to speak his recommendations. Licenses are not a problem You do not "need" Motorolas.. You do not need to spend $600-$1000, not sure what shops you are talking about but if you are looking at commercial radio shops, yeah they beat you over the head for their commercial radios. In the US, VHF covers a considerable range of frequencies that are broken into segments. Aeronatical is 117-137 Mhz, a sliver between for meteorologic stuff, Ham is 144-148 mhz, 149-150 radio navigation, 153-174 old analog Police/fire Marine, business Band (this is where a business would use) with a cut out for NOAA at 162 mhz broadcasts. So, in reality, you COULD apply for a VHF BUSINESS Band frequency and use a VHF handy talky like a Baofeng and you CAN get those dirt cheap now days if you wanted to go that route although seems to me that you have a bigger world if you simply get a No Code Tech Ham license. 8W VHF/UHF Baofeng HERE for $55 SIX PACK OF 4W/1W Baofeng VHF/UHF HERE for $115 ($20 EACH!!!)
Gdetrailer 11/24/20 12:59pm Tech Issues
RE: Inexpensive solar panels

San Tan Solar in AZ has consistently had 250W used panels for $50. Seems consistent with the trend to 72 cell panels. I certainly wouldn't buy 60 cell panels at 50% capacity. Panels often have a very long life. New 100W panels HERE for $85. New 100W panels HERE for $77 2 100W panels HERE for $160 New 160W panels HERE for $150 New 210W panels HERE for $200 Personally, this is where I would rather spend a bit more and buy NEW and not have to wonder if I bought a bunch of junk or got ripped off.. If you only want to consider buying used, buy them LOCAL to you, I see them used on CL a lot and this way you can physically and electrically check them before handing over any money.
Gdetrailer 11/24/20 12:20pm Tech Issues
RE: Inexpensive solar panels

Way under priced even for used.. Bet it is scammers with "vaporware" (non existent) and you never get them but they got your money or you get broken pieces of scrap.. Then if you try to contact them they won't answer or if they answer will give you 10,000 excuses or tell you to pound sand. If a price is "too good to be true" it is a pretty good chance of scammers baiting you.. Sort of like the scams on Craigs list when they advertise a used car for $2001 and it should be worth $10K.. They are betting on folks like you looking for a "too good to be true" bargain.. If you want solar, buy new at reputable places and be willing to pony up some money for legit stuff. Then you know you are not going to get burnt. Yes, legit places do cost money, sometimes you just have to buck up and pay the price to play.
Gdetrailer 11/24/20 11:31am Tech Issues
RE: Mapping and GPS Recommendations Needed

An alternative to dedicated GPS units, at half the price, is an android tablet with built in GPS sensor running the CO-PILOT RV app. CO-PILOT does not need cell service since the map software is loaded on the tablet. CO-PILOT can be configured for the size and weight of the RV and has campgrounds, rest areas, and other attractions in it's database. I've been using it for over 7 years and never had a problem with being routed over weight limited roads or low overpasses. We tried the Co-Pilot on the tablet method.. Failed miserably. Tablets vary greatly between the OS version, processor, on board usable memory so results often can be rather unpredictable to say the least. Not ALL tablets include GPS radios either. Played the game of downloading Copilot, then the maps of the states of interest which took hrs (couldn't imaging how long it would take to download all 50 states).. Then played the game of "wack-a-mole" with Android updates which took out the CoPilot which required a newer version of CoPliot which required reloading the maps.. Also noticed that when using CoPilot, the Tablet just ate right through the battery and the second the charger was plugged in, Copilot would freeze and then reboot the Tablet.. Betting your life on a buggy OS like Android and a highly buggy "app" is pretty risky. If you needed the Tablet for anything else, you had to shut down Copilot, then once done with the other App you had to restart Copilot from the beginning and setup the trip again and again.. After several trips of that, my DW in the seat beside me quietly put the Tablet CoPilot to sleep for ever and started using the paper maps again.. GPS is only a "tool", it can and will make mistakes, best to not 100% depend on it and use backup paper and your eyes and mind on the road signs.. A far better idea we found was to scan in our Paper Atlas as JPGs and DW can view the JPGs on her Tablet. Allows her to to zoom in closely like a magnifying glass or zoom out depending on level of detail she wants to look at. We still keep the paper Atlas also..
Gdetrailer 11/24/20 11:14am Technology Corner
RE: 1/2 ton towing

That may be true but most part times RV'ers are only pulling a trailer 10 or 20% of the time they drive their truck. Who wants to drive a 3/4 or 1 ton truck with it's terrible unladen fuel mileage 80-90% of the time they own their truck? Yes if your primary purpose of the truck is towing the trailer a 3/4 or 1 ton would be ideal, but for those whose TV is their primary vehicle the other 80-90% of the time, pushing the limits of a 1/2 ton for relatively short trips is perfectly fine. I drive and own not only ONE 3/4 ton, I have THREE 3/4 ton trucks and they ARE used for "daily drivers".. I don't call getting 15mpg-16mpg as "terrible unladen mileage" either for a 6.2 gas engine and in a 6000 lb empty truck. Even 1/2 tons get only a couple of MPG better empty than a 3/4 ton which in reality makes the fuel mileage argument pretty much a moot point. And when loaded (towing) the 1/2 tons do not get any better mileage and sometimes even worse mileage. I recall back in the 1970's, 80's and even into the early 90s when pickup trucks barely got 8mpg-9mpg empty and automobiles averaged 12 mpg-16 mpg.. I have no intention of ever going back to a 1/2 ton, the one I had was always in the shop, always needing front end parts, brakes and shocks.. Dumped it at 140K miles and have not looked back. So far have had very good success with 3/4 tons, drove one of them up to 240,000 miles before I sold it, only in a shop once and would have kept it longer but the body was rusting out after 18 yrs.. Modern day 3/4 and 1 tons actually ride very well, while not as soft and spongy as a 1/2 ton they are firm and take command of your loads without the need to add aftermarket suspension upgrades and gadgets. You "half ton" folks need to open your mind and eyes, much better platforms for light or heavy loads are out there once you get past the old stigma of the "buck board rides" of yester year. Go, take a 3/4 for a test drive with open minds, you will find it feels firm and planted on the road compared to the mushy 1/2 tons.
Gdetrailer 11/24/20 10:08am Travel Trailers
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 26  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2020 CWI, Inc. © 2020 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.