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RE: Furnace fan speed control

Wow.. Looks like a potential Darwin Award candidate. Take the extra air flow and noise and live with it, your furnace will thank you, heck you might even wakeup alive and not on fire.. Seriously, reducing the motor speed on these furnaces is asking for trouble, they are highly compact and depend on a certain minimum amount of airflow to keep them from igniting things like the floor and walls. So, unless you manage to dial in and nail the exact minimum airflow (which is not only on the inside but the outside combustion side) you are taking some big chances even with maintaining enough flow to keep the sail switch happy. Perhaps you bought the wrong motor? They DO make different motors for different BTU furnaces that run different RPMS.. I would suggest attempting to find the correct exact replacement before kludging your own work around fix.
Gdetrailer 06/30/20 08:14pm Tech Issues
RE: 100 watt Solar decision

Glad you have got it worked out. Sams does sell smaller versions of "bulk" items, no need to buy a single huge can of Tuna, instead many items they sell multiple smaller cans. For instance, we like canned chicken to make homemade noodle soup, or Chicken Salad sandwiches, they sell that in smaller 12.5 oz cans. They however are bundled and sold in a "six pack". The good thing though is canned items have pretty long shelf life. We buy all of our ground beef, steaks, pork ribs, boneless chicken, chicken quarters, porkloins at Sams, we divide up the meat and vacuum pack and freeze. Much cheaper than our retail grocery stores and the meat is fresher also. Things like cheese we buy a large brick or package of slices, divide and vacuum seal and it will stay fresh for many months in the fridge. Pretty much our go to place for green grapes, apples, oranges for fresh fruits, started buying stuff like salt, pepper and other seasonings at a far cheaper price than retail stores when comparing cost per ounce. Granted, not everyone likes to stock up like a "restaurant" for season but for us it works great. Quite a few yrs ago when Sears started going out of business and closed our nearest store I found that Sam's automotive batteries were a better deal and the quality is above par from the old Sears brands. Never tried Sam's for tires but I suspect they are priced competitively also.
Gdetrailer 06/29/20 04:08pm Travel Trailers
RE: 100 watt Solar decision

I never thought of auto parts store having them I problem I've had asking about batteries at an auto part store is, they ask you what make and model of vehicle you have. They are geared toward fitting the battery in a vehicle, not RV electrical storage. Correct! Most autoparts stores do not have experienced folks manning the store, instead they depend on their "computers" to look up parts.. Personally, for what it is worth, if you have a Sams or Costco near you, buy a one year BASIC membership, I know Sam's is around $45 for that membership and Costco is most likely the same. Yes, that adds a little to the battery purchase but it does give you the option to purchase other things during that year of membership which helps to level out the cost. For instance, my local Sam's club is currently selling 87 octane gas at $.20-$.30 LESS than all of the other gas stations.. For myself, I commute 500 miles per week so I am saving quite a bit monthly in fuel costs. Last year, we upgraded to Sam's Plus membership, in nine months between buying a lot of bulk food and gas we have earned nearly $70 towards our next membership renewal! Basically we will be able to renew with another Plus Membership ($100 cost) for most likely not much more than $20 which is less than half of a regular membership.. I am not a big proponent for membership clubs but in this case you are going to have a tough time finding GC2 batteries for $90 each from other sources. Took me one call to a golfcart dealer to figure out paying for a membership for one year was a lower cost solution.. GC dealer wanted over $200 per GC2 battery and they were no-name batteries.. Other places to consider, I have a Rural King store near me, at times I have seen them stock their own house brand GC2 batteries for around $100 each. You could check at Tractor Supply but you do need to be careful you do not get a 6V TRACTOR battery which is not the same as a GC2 (old tractors often used 6V starting battery). Barring that, I found a Interstate Battery Dealer locator.. HERE Found a US Battery dealer locator.. HERE Not the cheapest place to buy, you can also check with BATTERIES PLUS.. Looks like they have around 10 stores in NC Here is link to their GC2 battery.. BATTERIES PLUS You can pay an arm and leg and go to a NAPA dealer.. Lots of those stores around should be easy to find one near you.. NAPA 6V GC2 battery for $150 each Cat dealer? Yep.. HERE you can check their dealer network to find a dealer near you.. Crown Battery.. HERE you can search the dealer network to find the nearest location to you. I don't give up that easy, GC2 batteries are not all that hard to find.. You just need to be willing to do some work to find them.
Gdetrailer 06/29/20 03:05pm Travel Trailers
RE: Towing a 4500lb TT with an SUV

It is less safe to have that Pilot towing at the top of it's rated range, than using a big truck or suv to tow at the low end of its range, but... If the Pilot is towing it, though slow on hills and white knuckle at speed, then it may be cheaper to rag this vehicle out to the end of its life than to sell it and buy another vehicle. OK, that certainly is sending mixed messages to the OP. On one hand you admit the OPs Pilot may be at the top of it's rated range and the other hand you are telling the OP that it might be cheaper to continue on using their Pilot until the end of it's life in spite of it's maxed out capability and "white Knuckle driving experience in order to "save some money" on trade out time. Saving them a couple of pennies loss in a vehicle UPGRADE now most likely will result in HUGE losses in money down the road continuing to use the Pilot at it's max capability.. The cost could be transmission, brakes, engine, cooling system and many other high wear parts at the most inopportune time. However, the tragic cost may come at the expense of the OPs and or other motorists lives when that vehicle/trailer combo comes unhinged and causes an fatal accident. If the OP does not feel comfortable driving a poorly handling tow vehicle combination then they should stop driving it and get a more capable vehicle that is more suited for their trailer. SAFETY should come first, not money. I have in the past driven poor tow vehicle/trailer combos, but I did not know better, it is not fun, it does not "save money" having to fix things that should not have broke and under the wrong conditions may test out and exceed the OPs driving skills beyond expectations. A properly matched tow vehicle/trailer combo should never result in a white knuckle experience under normal circumstances (weather, driving conditions, at highway speed, ect). A badly matched combo starts out from the beginning with poor handling and white knuckles below or near highway speeds. If OP does not feel comfortable at highway speeds then why tell them to continue driving this combination?
Gdetrailer 06/29/20 09:03am Travel Trailers
RE: Decent inexpensive modified sine wave inverter

Mex, I only run laptops and with MSW there were no visual artifacts. The power bricks did run hotter. Apple laptops do NOT play well with MSW, letting out the magic blue smoke. ....... A laptop uses a brick so why would an Apple care if were MSW? Yeah, I call BS on that to. Just another scare tactic uneducated folks love to spread.. Dirt cheap MSW inverters can be a bit problematic due to much looser tolerances and less harmonic filtering in the output which are most likely where some of these tall tails of death and destruction of electronic items comes from. Would I intentionally plug anything of value into a $19-$100 cheap inverter, I think not but read on.. Those laptop bricks are the SAME switching power supplies in pretty much every device known to man now days. Switching power supplies do not care what so ever what the waveform looks like and in fact can operate on straight DC if you have enough voltage, typically can operate 100v-250V AC at 50-60hz sinewave, modified sinewave or heck even the old school hardcore SQUAREWAVE with no harm or foul. They are pretty much as universal as you can get. The first stage of a switching power supply is nothing more than a bridge rectifier to unfiltered DC, then that is run through brute force filtering via some high voltage capacitors. Then that voltage is fed to a high frequency chopper circuit. The chopper feeds a small high frequency transformer. The output of the high frequency transformer is fed to a high speed diode and that output is then brute forced filtered with high microfarad capacitors and the output is fed to your laptop. The only concession I would make is some devices like lamp dimmers, electronic blanket controllers or any device that uses a solid state Triac may not work well or may be damaged from a MSW. The reason for that is Triac devices MUST switch on/off when the waveform crosses zero volts. MSW typically has a long zero volt crossing and steep ramp up and down.. Other than that, most devices will handle MSW fine..
Gdetrailer 06/28/20 08:56pm Tech Issues
RE: Camping World Accounts

The question is WHY bother with an account with CW? Getting on CWs mailing list is pretty much as bad as "AAA", your email address will get spammed multiple times a day, you will get all kinds of bogus "offers" in emails and snail mail.. And, you won't save a dime in fact, most likely will cost you more in the long run.. Those specials and coupons are sales gimmicks to get you tempted to buy. Pretty much everything that can be bought at CW can be bought anywhere else and cheaper.. Don't fret it if the account doesn't work and move on.. I buy the bulk of my RV stuff from Amazon..
Gdetrailer 06/28/20 05:03pm Technology Corner
RE: Decent inexpensive modified sine wave inverter

I agree! But fussy me likes PSW. With a group 31 dedicated Lifeline battery and Megawatt I have a poor man's UPS. I chose a Samlex PSW because long ago the MSW inverters created distracting visual artifacts on my monitors. Is this still the case? I run a Tripplite 1300W MSW UPS on my 50" TV and Dish DVR system with no artifacts in the screen when the UPS switches to battery. Even if there was, it is well worth running that UPS to protect the TV and Sat receiver from power issues.. I have run stereos, TVs, drills, refrigerators, lights of all types from MSW but once again, the quality of the inverter comes into play here.. I am not running Harbor Freight, Cobra or any other cheap import off brands.. Tripplite DOES make PSW UPS and inverter units if it makes you feel and sleep better, but they do cost more upfront.
Gdetrailer 06/28/20 01:11pm Tech Issues
RE: Too Much A Novice To Ask This On Electronics forum

Conversion to wireless sound? BLUETOOTH I realize a little chip can allow a PC or laptop to broadcast a bluetooth signal. Does another gizmo exist that will turn an amplified speaker into a wireless speaker? Like a Polk 10" subwoofer? Yes. What you need is a BT TRANSMITTER for your audio source (phone, tablet, laptop stereo, ect). Then you need a BT RECEIVER for the device you are sending the audio to like a speaker. Amazon search for BT transmitter Note, some of these may transmit only and some transmit/receive, you will need to read the descriptions closely before buying. Personally, for the hassle and the poor quality of BT I would just find a way to run some speaker wire to your subwoofer. BT was never intended for "High Fidelity" nor is it "robust" from interference and can have "pairing issues". I can always tell when someone is using a BT handsfree headset on their phone.. A simple wire works 100% of the time with no loss in fidelity or interference.
Gdetrailer 06/28/20 01:03pm Tech Issues
RE: Decent inexpensive modified sine wave inverter

Pretty hard to beat Triplite. I have to disagree. I was a loyal Triplite client until I bought a UPS that with that name on it. After about four years the internal battery went bad. I tried to decase the unit to replace it. I could not figure out how that would not break some plastic, so I called them and was told that the UPS (not cheap one) was not a serviceable unit. It was intended to be scrapped. I didn't do that, I did buy an APC replacement and the Triplite is in my shop in pieces so I can salvage small parts from it. Matt UPS units and inverter units are two distinctively different categories. I have had BOTH APC AND TRIPPLITE UPS units. The older APC units were good, but the newer APC units do not hold a candle to Tripplite. I have had to scrap several 3 and 4 yr old APCs because of some failure on the mainboard and yet the Tripplites just replace the batteries and go another 4 yrs. UPS units are a compromise between power, runtime, size, they are not battery efficient and the footprint limits the size of battery. Early UPS units used Gel batteries, newer units come with AGMs, I have noticed less battery life with the AGMs overall, three-four yrs vs the older Gel cells which often got me five to six yrs of life. I also had to scrap a couple of APC units because they would not play well with my backup power generator and replaced those with Tripplites which have no issue with being inline with a backup generator. I have worked also with Minuteman UPS units and some other brands which worked reasonably well as long as you understand that a UPS is designed solely to supply you enough power to safely shut down your PC(s) or other equipment in the event of a long term power outage or in a short term power surge/sag to ride out that even for a few seconds. The Tripplite inverter I posted IS designed for the long haul, it WILL run as long as you have enough external battery capacity. At 42 pounds it is a heavy duty beast, well built and well designed and not your average run of the mill inverter. Yes, you do pay a price upfront, but in the end will outlast the cheap China imports under heavy duty use.
Gdetrailer 06/28/20 12:13pm Tech Issues
RE: 100 watt Solar decision

lol, "power pole princess" I don't believe I have 120 available where I'm going. And calling the golf course is a great idea, I'm going to do that. And honestly, I would really like to keep the battery at or under 150$. 200$ at maximum. And oddly enough my search for SiO2 batteries only lead me to batteries that I could afford, but no Si02 batteries. But I believe the Si02 batteries are out of my need/budget. This is mainly just to charge a phone for minimal work use, camper lights, hopefully get my fridge to operate on propane for an around 2 month boondocking job Do you have or know someone who has a Sam's Club or Costco membership? If so, both places sell Golf cart 6V batteries for a good price. Sam's club GC2 $90 You will need to buy 2 GC2 batteries because they are sold in 6V containers. Simply wire the pos of one battery to the negative of the other and walla, you now have 12V! You will have around 210 Ahrs of capacity Or, you can go to ANY Walmart and buy combo RV/Marine battery in group 24 (lowest capacity of about 70Ahr) or Group 27 (higher capacity around 80Ahr) for around $80. When boondocking capacity is king and the GC2 batteries often offer more capacity at a lower price per Ahr. GC batteries are incredibly low cost since they are used in literally millions of battery powered Golf Carts which means the manufacturers can build them at a lower cost. I would recommend you read up on 12V stuff.. A real good "primer" is a two part article called The 12V SIDE OF LIFE PART1 And The 12V SIDE OF LIFE PART2 Some of battery choice also depends on how well you conserve power and how much high current demands you really need. Low power needs and you could easily getaway with a group 27 for say overnighting, longer than that then two or more may be needed or moving up to GC2 batteries. Typically you want to avoid high current draws like electric coffee pots, Hair driers, Microwave ovens when running solely on battery power. Those items can be powered via a generator much easier with lower cost for solar panels and batteries.
Gdetrailer 06/28/20 11:51am Travel Trailers
RE: 100 watt Solar decision

And I honestly am surprised that the panels are so relatively cheap. There's a decently reviewed 100 watt one for 75ish dollars on amazon that might be the same as renogy That IS what I was talking about, there are far better choices with far better pricing once you look past the HF "kit". Renogy is a well known name with a pretty good reputation, however, that does not mean the lesser cost panels are not as good.. Sometimes you are paying for the reputation and IF you find a good deal elsewhere, it may be worth risking trying out the lower cost panel. At $75 for a 100W panel, that seems to be a decent savings and might be worth a small risk. You can then spend a bit more for a higher amperage controller which will allow you to add on a few more panels easily if you find that you need more power.
Gdetrailer 06/27/20 08:59pm Travel Trailers
RE: 100 watt Solar decision

I'm not sure what you mean about a 12 volt to usb adapter. Are you talking about the thing that sticks into a cigarette lighter and has a female usb on it? If not could you send a picture of what you mean? And wouldn't I need a power inverter to use the adapter? I'm assuming that they can't just be easily hooked on a battery, or can they? And I bought the 10 amp kit but can easily cancel it on amazon as it probably won't ship until Monday height=300 width=300 Plug into ANY 12V cig/power ports. If you do not have a 12V Cig/power port available, you CAN add one easily or one add one of these.. height=300 width=300 Which you simply wire to your 12V battery.. Or you can add one of these.. height=300 width=300 Which gives you not only a USB charger but a 12V power port along side it, just simply wire to your 12V battery. All of these solutions are much more efficient than using a 12V to 120V inverter then a 120V to 5V USB charger. The best of all the top pix is the cheapest at about $5 and the most expensive is the last pix at about $15. Much cheaper than buying any 12V to 120V inverter. Each time you do a voltage conversion there is a loss of energy which creates heat and uses more battery than it should, the idea is to minimize the amount of times you must "convert" the voltage. Eliminating the inverter step will save considerable amount of battery power making your camping experience go a bit further. This is especially true when dealing with very small current draw items like charging a cellphone.
Gdetrailer 06/27/20 08:48pm Travel Trailers
RE: 100 watt Solar decision

I'm planning on Boondocking for a few months, plan to run my phone, some lights and hopefully my refrigerator on a 100 watt solar panel charging the Travel Trailer Battery for a short time job. After looking around I really like the harbor freight setup how it comes with lights and the charge controller has usb ports directly on it which makes me think that for my use, I wouldn't even need a power inverter. But I am pressed for time and don't have access to a harbor freight. I am going to rely on amazon shipping. But I see this on amazon and think it would be better cause of timely shipping but also I feel it would be more expandable in the future if I get serious about upgrading. Amazon link renogy 100 watt Solar panel startup kit I wish it was more like the Harbor freight where it came with lights and had usb ports on the charge controller as that's really all I need. I was wondering if anyone had any insight on advice or maybe knows of a power inverter that would work for my situation. I was also wondering if anyone knows if the harbor freight charge controller usb ports run directly from the panels or do they draw power from the battery or a mix of both. Specifically wondering when I could use lights from that. I could make a drive to a Harbor Freight but it really wouldn't be a cost effective or fun trip and it would suck if they didn't even have what I was looking for. But I always appreciate y'alls input Buy the 100W Renogy. The HF kit you get FOUR 25W panels which means you have FOUR panels taking up MORE space, MORE to handle and MORE to connect via very cheap connectors/combiner mess which is not weather proof. The HF kit you get a dirt cheap controller which will not have additional settings. You do not "need" the USB charging port on the controller, instead buy a regular 12V cig lighter plug charger. You do not "need" that HF cheapo 12V bulb, it won't last and you can find much better lights. You WILL in BOTH cases NEED to hook this up to a 12V battery, you cannot run devices directly for the solar panel.. The battery must be present and attempts to run without one will result in damage to your 12V equipment. The Renogy uses standard connectors, you can buy ready made extension cables with connectors already on the them and you can expand your system by adding another 100W or even more panels any time. There are some better prices than the Renogy if you search, if not in a kit with controller, you can sometimes get real bargains by buying panels separate from the controller.. That allows you to buy a more flexible and higher capacity controller. But, I would really recommend steering away from the HF kit, it is a toy and even with coupons it is still a expensive toy. Yes, there are folks who WILL STILL defend buying the HF kit, back in the early days the HF stuff was a deal, but now days it has been passed up and you can get a lot more wattage for a lot less money buying elsewhere. HF has not kept up with the prices of panels, they sell individual 25W panels for $70, you can buy a off brand 100W panel on Amazon for $79.. FOUR times more power for $9 more! You can buy 30A solar charge controllers on Amazon for $30.. 20A controllers for $20.. In reality, HFs kit should be priced no more than $100 without coupon and with 20% off coupon it would be $80, but, they have not kept up with technology and prices.. Instead they are asking $199.99 without coupon and 20% off coupon means you are paying $160.. I won't buy HF panels because of their pricing being so high and I have one only 15 minutes from my home!
Gdetrailer 06/27/20 12:21pm Travel Trailers
RE: Decent inexpensive modified sine wave inverter

There's one way I judge: price. YGWYPF... almost every time. Cheaper ones are more likely to have noisy fans that run all the time. Even the cheapest auto parts store ones will work, for a while, but if you want something you don't have to replace in 3 years, spend the money. More expensive products aren't a conspiracy. And since you're looking at big wattage, it's likely the real cheap ones won't live up to those ratings. Other than that, weight will tell you about quality. The internals are NOT the same. Tripplite PV2000.. Product Dimensions 16.26 x 8.5 x 7.24 inches Item Weight 42 pounds Compare that to HF "Jupiter" brand 2000W inverter HERE which is: Product Height 3-1/2 in. Product Length 10-1/2 in. Product Weight 6.63 lb. Product Width 9-5/8 in. Shipping Weight 7.63 lb. Yeah, That HF is a feather weight compared to the Tripplite.. There IS a reason why the Tripplite weights more, it is built like a tank..
Gdetrailer 06/27/20 11:17am Tech Issues
RE: Decent inexpensive modified sine wave inverter

There are SO MANY modified sine wave inverters on the market, how do you know if any of them are any good ! They all come from China. Many have identical cases so I bet the internals are the same, just different labels. Even it the case is the same, doesn't mean the internals are different. (Yes, I WANT modified sine wave. I have my reasons, with cost being a big one.) I know you are going to take a lot of abuse on this request but sadly there is a lot of folks scared to death by well meaning folks who judge MSW inverters by the cheapo junk stuff like Harbor Freight and other cheapo imports. If you are really serious, skip the cheapos, spend a few more nickles and go with Tripplite Inverters. Mainly in your case, Tripp Lite Power Industrial Inverter PV2000FC With 4,000W Surge, they do not come cheap at $400 but it WILL outperform any other MSW out there. This inverter is built ground up to handle heavy inductive motor startup loads. I have the smaller cousin PV1250FC to run my home fridge conversion and it handles that perfectly fine, fridge starts and runs quietly. PV2000FC At AMAZON height=300 width=300 2000W Continuous 4,000W Surge DoubleBoost Feature Tripp Lite Inverters deliver up to twice their nameplate rated wattage for up to 10 seconds, providing the extra power needed to cold start heavy-duty tools and equipment. This is the ONLY inverter that I am aware of that can handle twice the rated power for TEN SECONDS, most inverters only handle the surge for MICROSECONDS! OverPower Feature Tripp Lite Inverters deliver up to 150% of their name plate rated wattage for up to 1 hour, providing plenty of reserve power to reliably support tools and equipment longer. (3000W in the case of PV2000FC) Manual HERE With this amount of surge current, you WILL NEED to use the MAX wire gauge that will fit the terminals which is 2/0 and keep the 12V wiring as short as possible! I should also add, this inverter IS remote capable, you can buy an optional remote to turn the inverter on/off plus it has status info on the battery and inverter load. Pricy at around $120 for the remote, it allows you to mount the inverter as close as possible to the batteries. This inverter also has a power save feature you can adjust which will automatically turn on/off with load demand which I use for my home fridge conversion to save battery Ahrs.
Gdetrailer 06/27/20 09:09am Tech Issues
RE: Ford V10 OBD code

It's a vacuum leak! It's not any sensor. While I agree it is most likely NOT a sensor, I do not agree that is is 100% a vacuum leak. The vacuum leak would have to be coming from the intake manifold on the same side as the Lean code.. Otherwise most likely would get lean codes for BOTH banks. Most of the vacuum ports are located directly under or at the throttle body so most likely a vacuum line leak would affect both banks. Although it is not unheard of having a crack in the intake manifold.. More likely the exhaust manifold gasket or cracked exhaust manifold on the affected bank which is quite common on these engines.. Just had this same issue with a 2006 5.4.. Quite a job to change, generally pretty good chance multiple manifold studs will break off in the process. We were quoted $800+ for one side, decide truck was not worth dumping that kind of money into, bed rails were rusted out, had to fix the front one just so bed was not laying on the frame.. Cab corners were showing signs of rust from inside, doors were nearly rusted through.. The lean code basically made it a easy choice to buy a 2020 and be done with the money pit.. Personally, even though for its time the V10 was a good engine, I personally feel it IS a money pit if it is in a pickup truck to continue to dump gobs of money at it. If you are DIYing the repair, you can easily end up going down a rabbit hole at a lower cost but it is a diminishing return on your money on very old outdated engine and transmission technology.. Not to mention working on these engines with the cramped engine compartment makes repairs take much longer to complete repairs.. The 2020 6.2 can and will easily replace a 2001 V10 in pretty much all cases and do it with a little better fuel economy.. If OPs V10 is in a MotorHome, well that is an issue that they will need to fix unless they wanted to replace the MH..
Gdetrailer 06/21/20 01:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Ford V10 OBD code

From what I understand, the O2 sensors do wear or drift in their output over time and with use, so replacing them even if it doesn't solve the problem is hardly money wasted if they're the original ones. Depends, O2 sensor is considered a "wear item", but not always the issue with a lean code. OPs vehicle may only have OBD1 system with OBDII port, meaning it has pretty limited information and sensors tracked in the system. May also have only upstream O2 sensors. The typical problem areas with the Modular engines which causes the lean codes is vacuum leaks caused by vacuum lines cracking or breaking, damaged/leaking exhaust. Being the lean code is only on one bank, vacuum lines might not be the issue. However, the Modular series has one major shared flaw, the exhaust manifolds cracking, exhaust manifold studs breaking off or exhaust manifold gasket seal going bad creating a leak between the head and manifold. If you can hear a exhaust "tick" or exhaust seams to have gotten much louder than it used to be especially when cold that would be the most likely cause of the lean code on that one bank. Any exhaust leak before the Cats can dilute the exhaust stream causing a false O2 level which would indicate a lean condition. The fuel trim then will be increased until it maxes out and when that happens the CEL light and lean code is set. That bank will now be running too rich and you should be getting a rich fuel smell from the exhaust. If it is a 4 O2 sensor system only the UPSTREAM (before the Cats)sensors are used to calibrate the fuel system to set fuel trim for lean/rich, the downstream (after Cats) are only used to check the Cats efficiency levels and those are different codes.. OP needs to fix it quickly before the Cat gets contaminated from excessive fuel.. If the engine was newer OP could track the o2 sensors and fuel trim settings which would be helpful in diagnosing but like I mentioned, 01 most likely does not have OBDII enhancements. One could toss an O2 sensor at it and hope for the best, they aren't all that expensive, around $40-$50 but they can be a royal pain to change.
Gdetrailer 06/21/20 12:37pm Tech Issues
RE: Newbie needs tow vehicle PSI advice

Dude Id just run 60 in all the time. There is no "one size fits all" in the situation. Over pressuring the tire without enough load will result in poor traction, poor handling, poor braking, excessively hard ride and poor tire wear taking the centers out of the tire. I have a 2020 F250 with load range E, factory door sticker min is 55 PSI but tire can take 80 PSI. However, the empty weight of my F250 is nearly 1,000 lbs HEAVIER than a F150. I typically run 70 in front and 68 in rear when empty. When towing air up to 80 PSI on rear and 78 PSI on front. That 2 lbs differential is because of the weight differences between front and rear when empty and loaded, running same pressure can affect ride and handling. This comes from experience, having owned a 97 Heavy half (light duty F250), 2003 F250, 2006 F250, 2013 F250, 2019 F250, 2020 F250.. But keep in mind what I do for my F250 may not work at all for the OPs vehicle. There has been more than once where some folks have done a "chalk" test on the tires, that is where they spread chalk on the tire then roll the vehicle and check to see how well the chalk transferred to the pavement. Too much air and only chalk in the center transfers, too little air and only the sides transfer. Either way will cause excessive wear on the tire. Something else OP did not consider, Load range E tires are heavier, about 3lbs per tire.. Does not sound like much but that extra weight does impact fuel economy, braking and handling if vehicle was not specifically designed for that.
Gdetrailer 06/20/20 08:50am Travel Trailers
RE: Newbie needs tow vehicle PSI advice

People.. He put aftermarket LT E tires on the truck... The door sticker and the manual will be for the P rated tires and will likely say 35.. I had LT E tires on my old F150 with 16" wheels and I ran them at 40 when empty and bumped up to 50 when towing. Way overkill using those tires.. I had LT C tires before, but could not get the tire I wanted in C, so settled on the E's.. I have 20" "XL" rated tires on the 13 F150 and they are perfect fit for this truck and the load.. I bump 'em to 50 when towing. 40 running empty. Good luck! Mitch Correct, OP has a 2010 which has AFTERMARKET LT tires which are in E weight rating and is extremely over excessive in capacity.. TOO much capacity I might add. From HERE That tire has a weight capacity of 3415 lbs at 80 PSI or 6830 lbs for the axle at 80 PSI which is excessively above the axle rating.. Which from what I have been able to determine for that year the absolute max GVWR is 8,200 lbs, I suspect the rear axle gross weight would not be much higher than 4,500 lbs.. The tire pressure chart on the door are thrown out with this tire choice and not reliable. OP SHOULD have gone with Load Range C in this tire which would be a far better match which gives 2553 lbs at 50 PSI or 5106 lbs at 50 PSI. A GOOD tire shop would have advised to use load range C and against the Load range E. Not to mention the rims may not be rated for 80 PSI! Since the OP has the tires, and they have a inflation/weight chart, they will need to select the pressure based on the max weight they are expecting to have for a load.. A lot of guessing. I would suggest going to the higher PSI for the max load expected however, I would not exceed 50 PSI unless you have been able to determine the pressure rating of the rim exceeds 50 PSI (that info typically is on the inside of the rim, one would have to dismount the tire to find it). This may lead to underinflation for the load at 50 PSI. I would not run 35 PSI, that is FLAT for a LT tire and will most certainly lead to failure due to heat build up even when lightly loaded.. Most likely better to run 45-50 PSI, yes, it will be a stiffer ride but better than a blowout from under inflation..
Gdetrailer 06/19/20 02:35pm Travel Trailers
RE: Ventline Stove Hood Fan Blades

Replace existing fan and motor with a computer case fan. Choose one that has a low RPM rating and a decent CFM and noise rating. Vent fans are not efficient power wise, make one heck of a racket and move very little air for the noise and current draw, in other words highly inefficient. Computer case fans use a more efficient brushless design motor which uses less current and if you pick one with low enough speed and enougn blades will move a lot of air quietly. You can find them in the 1200 RPM-3000 RPM range 50-100CFM at noise levels of 50 DB or less which is more air than the existing fan.. Try to avoid the 4K RPM and up, they get pretty noisy..
Gdetrailer 06/18/20 04:44pm Tech Issues
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