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RE: 3500 lb. axle castle nut

Procedure according to Dexter axle service manual HERE Page 56.. "For standard grease or oil axles using cotter pin: 1. After placing the hub, bearings, washers, and spindle nut back on the axle spindle in reverse order as detailed in the previous section on hub removal, rotate the hub assembly slowly while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 50 Ft. Lbs.(12" wrench or pliers with full hand force.) 2. Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque. Do not rotate the hub. 3. Finger tighten the spindle nut until just snug. 4. Back the spindle nut out slightly until the first castellation lines up with the cotter key hole and insert the cotter pin. 5. Bend over the cotter pin legs to secure the nut. 6. Nut should be free to move with only restraint being the cotter pin." So, "approximately 50 FT LBS" which they mention using a 12" long wrench or pliers with full HAND force. No need to use a torque wrench when using 12" wrench or pliers as long as you follow the procedure above. Been doing that procedure the same way on 1970's and up vehicles since I started driving (that is the way my Dad showed me how to set wheel bearings) with no failures and the procedure works fine with trailer axles. The only difference between auto axles and trailer axles is the trailer axles use a very coarse thread and the castlated nut has fewer castlations which means not as fine of as a adjustment as auto axles and the bearings on trailer axles tend to operate with some slack or slop. Auto axles on the other hand needs zero slack so they use a much finer thread and the castlated nut has many more castlations.
Gdetrailer 06/15/21 11:20am Tech Issues
RE: Damage while moving

Much like your car, your insurance is in full effect if someone else is operating it with your permission. This was the case here, right? So, the outcome should be pretty much the same as if you damaged it yourself. You'll need to eat the deductible, which you 'could' try to collect from the actual operator, but I sure wouldn't count on it. Just hoping you have a good insurance carrier that won't fight you. Since this is posted in the Travel Trailer section I will have to assume we are talking a Travel Trailer. Here is the rub about Travel trailer and insurance.. IF you do not have a dedicated Travel Trailer Insurance policy or extended auto policy with RV/Trailer coverage you have zero coverage unless the Travel trailer is fully attached to a vehicle. You get nothing, nada, zip, zilch coverage. When your Travel trailer is sitting on your own home ground your homeowners insurance will often cover with partial coverage up to what ever limitations may be in the policy. If your Travel trailer is sitting on a campground lot unattached from your vehicle you have nothing, nada, zip no coverage unless you have a RV/Trailer insurance or extended RV/Trailer insurance on your auto insurance. The helpful person that towed that RV/Trailer, their insurance may or may not cover any damage depending on their policies limitations, but that is while the trailer is attached to their vehicle.. Once unhitched, their auto insurance is not going to pay one red cent. The helpful persons auto insurance most likely will not pay on red cent if that person accepted any money or was willing to accept compensation for said services (that is the same as a business transaction and most personal auto insurance will not pay one red cent if a personal vehicle is used for business purposes). While we can argue many points here in this thread, it isn't going to fix the damage that has happened, it isn't going to make it whole again. Only the OP of the thread knows the full story and only the OP of the thread will have to decide if they wish to be the bigger person and see if their insurance covers or not and if not make repairs on their own and move on. RVs can be repaired or replaced, lives cannot, no one was killed or hurt and much better to use it as a learning experience and not repeat the same thing again down the road.
Gdetrailer 06/15/21 10:06am Travel Trailers
RE: New phone recommendations for cross border

Ah, you can’t transfer a Canadian # to Skype though. Does you Canadian cell service have "call forwarding"? If so, pick up a cheap throw away US based cell phone on a pay as you go basis and you could enable call forwarding of your Canadian cell number to a different phone number. We do that with our home phone (VoIP based phone via our cable Internet and phone service). Before leaving we enable call forwarding to one of our cell phones.. When we get home we simply log back in and disable the forwarding. This way friends and family do not have to remember three phone numbers.. We used to have a "POTs" phone on copper package which had call forwarding which we found worked nicely also. The only issue I see is if your Canadian cell service considers calls made to US issued phone numbers a "toll call", it would get costly in a hurry. Our cellphones will not make calls to Canada on our current plan, DW discovered that by accident when she had to work from home, she has to deal with some Canadian suppliers..
Gdetrailer 06/15/21 08:51am Technology Corner
RE: Looking for a ground wire

Ground is ground. 2 amps is not a concern, but higher amperage might burn out the little tiny thermostat wire, not a concern here. Ground is ground, so if ground is issue with your pwm then any ground will be an issue. The steel camper frame is ground also, the entire frame of the camper is ground, all the ground wires are ground, they are all connected to the frame and to the negative post on the battery, ground is common to everything. The only concern, as stated, is how much amperage will be flowing through your chosen ground wire. I dont think there would be concern with your thermo wire, but try it, if it works then it works, job done. Ground WIRE is not always "ground". That would be a blatant disregard of proper electrical wiring and a violation on NEC rules. 120V ground wires must terminate in the 120V breaker box on the ground buss. Yes, the ground buss must be bonded to to trailer frame but the 120V wiring has the potential for 120V currents which can cause voltage potentials on any of the ground wires that can cause issues like GFCIs false tripping or even higher voltage potential than 12V on your 12V system.. 120V systems ground WIRE and 12V systems ground WIRE should never be exchanged or substituted or mixed. I would also not recommend using the furnace T stat wires for 12V ground as the "ground" you find there goes through the furnace control board and will no longer be at ground potential when the T stat calls for heat. Since there is no real 12V ground available OP will need to get creative on pulling an extra wire for the ground. If the location is close to wall trim you might be able to remove the trim carefully and carve out or drill a hole to thread the wire through the wall stud. Check at floor level to see if you can fish a wire from the floor up. Often you can drill holes just large enough to thread the wire but not too big to cause major damage that can't be hidden with some trim.
Gdetrailer 06/15/21 08:33am Tech Issues
RE: Damage while moving

Your problem is you can't prove he did it. No one inspected it before and after move. Let your insurance deal with it. ^^^This^^ No "proof" with before moving pictures and after moving pictures, basically a "he says, she says" type of issue. It is sad that the driver is not willing to acknowledge the aftermath of the move. If the driver was not working as a fully insured transporter business (a "friend of a friend" with a pickup type of thing) they most likely do not have insurance that will cover the damages caused by the act of transporting and basically it is up to you or your insurance to make it right. While it would be nice if the driver would step up and be willing to share some of the repair cost as a goodwill gesture, I wouldn't count on it especially if it was a non paid for out of the heart kindness gesture that they were asked to do a favor for.. Check with your insurance company to see if the repairs will be covered by your insurance and if not, move on, and pay out of your pocket for the repairs and chalk it up as a learning experience.
Gdetrailer 06/15/21 06:10am Travel Trailers
RE: Frame Rail Under Coupler Question

After watching this video kinda wonder if the previous owner maybe had a hitch clearance issue. Or maybe their bars did hit at one time. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GalckZzw2DE&ab_channel=AaronRose As the Youtube poster mentions, the hitch is attached too far back on the tubing.. Here is a snapshot from the video. https://i.imgur.com/tsmTqd2l.jpg "border=0" https://i.imgur.com/m3zZPvb.pngClick For Full-Size Image. I placed a red arrow were the weld bead stopped.. That is the spot where the frame tubing should have stopped. Since the weld bead stopped short of the end of the tubing any material past that weld is not structural. However, if you look closely at the setup in the video, you will notice that since they do not have the hitch head in a vehicle receiver the hitch is hanging at a severe angle which makes the bottom of the hitch look like is has less clearance than it should. In reality, the hitch should not ever be at that severe of an angle while towing. The youtube poster should have supported the hitch and then moved the the hitch side to side and most likely they would have more clearance to the point they would have had to jackknife the vehicle and caused damage to vehicle and trailer. I just got back from a campground where I had a front row seat to some towing greenhorns, yeah, they jackknifed a trailer backing into a spot.. Not sure how much damage was inflicted but I did hear some noises that should never be when contact was made..
Gdetrailer 06/14/21 05:20pm Travel Trailers
RE: Frame Rail Under Coupler Question

No need to weld completely shut, just a single tack in the middle is all that would be needed for stabilization of the ends of the tubing. As I also mentioned, could have been intentionally factory bent in the center to make the joint where they come together thinner which may be helpful for making a bit more clearance for a tighter turning radius. The bend at the ends should not cause any loss of strength at the hitch since the hitch assembly is welded to the top of the frame and the hitch assy should cover at least 12" of length that tubing. The trailer ball mount assy adds reinforcement and the fact that is should cover at least 12" of the A frame top means a lot of the weight is spread out over a fairly large area of the frame tubing. Trailer frame tubing is often bent at the trailer body to make a A frame/tongue which typically results in a bend and indentation on the tubing. I would not be all that concerned. If the bends were near the trailer body or in the middle of the A frame then I would be concerned. If it bothers you, then take the trailer to a certified welding shop and have them add some reinforcement gussets.
Gdetrailer 06/14/21 03:29pm Travel Trailers
RE: Frame Rail Under Coupler Question

Looks intentionally designed and built that way from factory to me. If someone backed into it, bumped it by accident it would have been on one side only and there would have been some paint scraped off. Factory may have bent that to thin it out at the hitch and to stabilize the ends of the tubing. Tubing frames are not may favorite design, personally I would rather C channel frame, much sturdier but heavier..
Gdetrailer 06/14/21 02:42pm Travel Trailers
RE: Travel Trailer Brake Problem

It is a 2018 TT so I am hesitant about rewiring the whole thing. I will explore the whole system again. I can never reduplicate it without driving hundreds of miles. I appreciate all the suggestions. I thought about replacing the magnet in the suspected wheel first. OK, might wish to edit your original post as you did mention 2008.. snip.. The TT is a 2008 KZ and it seems unlikely that there is a wiring problem. Unless the magnet shows physical damage I would just look at the wire to make sure no insulation has been shredded. If you find any damaged insulation you can simply either cover the bare insulation with black tape or cut and splice with crimp or solder and then cover with black tape or if you have heat shrink tubing. Then make sure the wire routing will not cause any further problems.
Gdetrailer 06/03/21 11:11am Travel Trailers
RE: East Coast Affiliates

Unless you are camping something like 100 miles from the nearest "affiliate" station try OTA.. DISH doesn't offer affiliates in HD and usually at a pretty low bit rate. At least with OTA you can normally get all stations in HD..
Gdetrailer 06/03/21 09:31am Technology Corner
RE: Travel Trailer Brake Problem

Loose wheel bolt? Lucky you didn't tear up the brake shoes and lockup the brakes.. But, yes, a nut or bolt flying around inside of a contained area could have chaffed the brake magnet wire and is causing an intermittent short. Another suspect place is most manufacturers run the brake wiring inside the axle tubes.. The wire is laying loose inside the tube and can easily rub the insulation causing an intermittent short.. Some issue with the axle tube can also break the wires inside the tube causing no connection to the other brake. Manufacturers also do not use weather proof connectors and the wires tend to corrode inside the crimps making for poor or intermittent connections. Check the wheel where you found the bolt loose, make sure the magnet wire is not damaged. Check and verify all of the connections at the crimp connectors. Barring all that, you have a 2008 trailer, running all new wiring is not a bad idea and you can upgrade the wire size a couple of wire gauges, use better weather proof wire connectors and get better braking at the same time.
Gdetrailer 06/03/21 09:25am Travel Trailers
RE: FRAMELESS WINDOWS?

The traditional sliding window, my favorite. When open you get what, about 40% open to the air?One of my sliders is sticking so bad I can hardly open it. Got any tips? Remove the screen and use a wet microfiber towell to clean the tracks really really good, That did it for me 3M does make a window slide lubricant that you might try. Rather than typical liquid lubricants try using candle wax. Clean the track well with a cloth then rub a candle over the track, may take a couple of times but it should eventually stop getting stuck.. Candle wax since it is dry does not attract or hold dirt/dust and cleans easily. Candle wax also works great on sticking zippers (rub candle over the length of the zipper a couple of times and zipper should move easily after that), very useful for driving long wood screws (rub wax on the screw threads then drive home).. Most liquid lubricants attract and hold dirt and dust or evaporate over time.
Gdetrailer 05/30/21 01:04pm General RVing Issues
RE: B&D - Vector Battery Charger False F03 error codes.

Please do not toss them in the trash Yes they can very easily be repaired Open it up and take a look close look at the large Capacitors If any signs of anything abnormal replace the part Parts available at DigiKey and typically less than $5.00 Replacing "caps" does not "fix" everything, the charger is falsely seeing/sensing a battery voltage higher than it should. That error is most likely the "processor chip" and or other ICs in the unit and no amount of caps you throw at it will fix that. Seriously doubt that you are going to buy an off the shelf processor for that device. These chargers super impose high frequency voltage spikes into the DC voltage of the output, chances are those same high frequency voltage spikes are causing the false high voltage detection.. The question becomes why and how. Chances are you would need an oscilloscope to view the waveforms and voltages but without any diagrams or notes on what you should see it is going to be a guessing game. It would take a lot of detective work to reverse engineer the how and whys of that device and even then the question of the possibility of a repair being successful is not assured. Sometimes you can make a device so smart, it becomes dumb. Those "smart chargers" are basically a throw away device, they are not built very robust nor designed to live a long life. Chalk up another win for the old school tried and true "dumb" charger, they just plain work.
Gdetrailer 05/30/21 12:52pm Tech Issues
RE: Home base TV Antenna

The antenna that the OP is working with is one at his house, thus it is stationary. He has at least one station that is broadcasting on VHF-Hi so a combination VHF/UHF antenna would be the better option. Correct. Besides the antenna the OP has installed is a combo VHF/UHF antenna which is why I don't understand why antenna selection process came into the mix here. Per OPs follow up post.. Thank your for all the responses. Broadcast stations are a mix of UHV and VHF, furthest stations I'm trying to receive is about 50 miles. Not that far for the monster antenna. Also had an omni directional uhf antenna that didn't pick up much of anything Below is the sequence from antenna to living room TV. It was interesting that removing the splitter had zero impact on signal, which shocked me. Channel Master advantage 100 antenna.. Even though OP didn't give exact model, it should look like these.. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51adPJP6HzL._AC_SL1000_.jpg height=300 width=300 https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51691QsgrXL._AC_SL1000_.jpg height=300 width=300 The OPs issue has nothing to do with having the wrong antenna, it actually is a fairly good choice and all of the antenna selection vs frequency stuff is not much more than a bunny trail..
Gdetrailer 05/29/21 01:14pm Technology Corner
RE: Home base TV Antenna

Regarding Virtual Channels comment. I referred to what I call "Carrier Channels" I will give you an actual station WJBK Virtual channels 2-1 2-2 (not sure if they have a 3) Carrier channel 7 (note the lack of a dash) this is the frequency they broadacst on. Want to hear somethign funny Just down the road (About 1-2 miles) is WZYZ.. Virtual channes 7-1 7-2 and so on.. YUP Channel 2 took over thir OLD frequency (WXYZ now uses I think 41 but I'm only sure of the forty part) So when you talk of "Virtual Channels" and I speak of "Carrier" We are actually lookign at the same thing You are looking at the TV channel display and I'm looking at the corrosponding frequency meter.. I'm more frequency oriented because antennas see frequencies . Not all stations have gone back to their original old analog channel frequency. Some have chosen to stay with the frequency assignment they were given during the analog to digital changeover or during the repacks. Some have taken the option to swap frequencies with another channel also. Because of this mish mash, you cannot depend on the readout your TV tuner is giving as the actual channel frequency it is being broadcast on and that is because of the "virtual channels". To find out what frequency they are really transmitting on you must use an external internet website like THIS Example, Pittsburgh TV market, KDKA channel 2 (the old analog assignment which which Ch 2 originally was broadcast at 54 Mhz which is VHF Lo band.. With the last repack, KDKA Channel 2 is now broadcasting at 626Mhz which is the old analog UHF Channel 40 broadcast frequency and not on 54Mhz when they were broadcasting in analog. But, the TV tuner specifically only gives the digital "virtual" channel number assignment of 2-1 or 2.1, it does not give you the real broadcast frequency or even the new channel frequency it is actually being broadcast on. Not exactly how you can think or assume that 2.1 is being broadcast on its old analog frequency of 54Mhz.. Here is sample of what I am talking about.. https://i.imgur.com/v9lxTcHl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/HfGXno1l.jpg To figure out what the old analog equivalent is you need to go HERE Which lists the current TV bandplan.. https://i.imgur.com/p75iEKkl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/v9vaczNl.jpg I have found better websites in the past to translate so they are out there but takes time to dig through to find good websites. One cannot just assume that the digital OTA channel number corresponds to the exact channel frequency as it did back in the analog days. "Virtual" channel translation is the reason that if you leave a TV broadcast market, you must always rescan the tuner.
Gdetrailer 05/29/21 11:08am Technology Corner
RE: Home base TV Antenna

I should be able to take 25' of cable and attach it directly to the bedroom TV through the window. I agree I have too much cable in the system, but things like needing 60' of cable, drove me to 100' premade cable. Taking the splitter out of the system gave me a result I wasn't expecting, no change. I'll order a roll of RG6 and cables and start making cables as short as needed if reducing every thing to minimum lengths. Probably what I should have done in the beginning, but I'm also coming to the conclusion the wire buried in the wall is a concern. I also had someone tell me they had an issue with a TV that was leaking voltage into the F connector and they had to put a splitter on trap the extraneous voltage. Running wire directly to a TV for a test should give you a result, if it doesn't then you will need to look at your connection at the antenna which would be the 300 to 75 ohm balun and the short jumper.. Since removing the splitter did nothing, it is obvious that no signal is making it to the splitter. Time to eliminate every unknown by a direct connection to the antenna. Even a spare old 50ft roll you have laying around may work fine to run through a window to one TV. I am very suspicious of the prewired part of your trailer, fair chance when the factory was slapping it together they tossed in a wire staple right through the center of the coax somewhere along the way.. If you get a good signal using the test piece of coax, I would suggest bypassing all prewired runs, instead run new wire drops to all of your TVs locations. You might have to get creative fishing the wire through the walls, you might have to take the coax under the trailer floor or run through interior cabinets. Make one central location for all TVs new runs to terminate at. Locate that location where you have power for the power injector. Insert power injector first, then add the splitter.
Gdetrailer 05/29/21 08:44am Technology Corner
RE: 1 month old TT totaled?

If you enter an intersection under green or yellow then the intersection is YOURS! It does not matter if it turns red AFTER you enter the intersection. The law states "do not enter intersection under RED". Other drivers HAVE to wait for you to exit the intersection before moving through. No need to tear through and crash just because you saw yellow or red after the fact. No, not correct. Traffic signal rules Specifically yellow signal.. "YELLOW—A yellow signal light warns you that the red signal is about to appear. When you see the yellow light, you should stop, if you can do so safely. If you can't stop, look out for vehicles that may enter the intersection when the light changes." Yellow does not give you the right to gun it ("accelleryeller style points" are not awarded for that move). Your logic is as bad as the guy I got to watch one morning decide that a solid green light on a left turn across traffic meant he had full right of way (he didn't have full right of way).. He was almost dead wrong when the semi T boned his vehicle pushing his vehicle into a concrete barrier and then spun 180 degrees and ended up the wrong direction on the ramp he so badly wanted to get on to.. I pulled over to see if he was alive and he started arguing that the trucker did not have the right of way.. I stated that the trucker indeed had full right of way and the driver of the car making that left turn did not have the green ARROW (which would have meant opposing traffic had red) and solid green in this case is supposed to yield right of way to oncoming traffic.. That traffic light even has a sign stating left turn must yield to traffic on solid green. Yellow means that you should prepare to stop, if you can't stop safely stop then proceed with caution. I have an intersection 1/4 mile from my house, has a blinking light with red blinking on two sides and yellow blinking on two sides and it is surprising the many accidents that happen there nearly on a weekly basis because folks totally ignore proper etiquette and not stopping on the red blinker and not being cautious on the yellow blinker.. Have seen many deaths at that intersection, not sure it was worth it to be in such a hurry.
Gdetrailer 05/28/21 09:34pm Travel Trailers
RE: 1 month old TT totaled?

First, glad you are OK and not hurt! As jdc1 mentioned, tossing enough money at the problem most anything can be repaired. The problem however it may cost more than the value of the trailer, not to mention there could be other hidden issues like bent frame, damaged or bent axle that may not be as obvious until you try to tow it. While it is possible to repair the fiberglass with a boat cloth patch and resin it is not an easy or quick repair especially if you want the repair to 100% blend into the original fiberglass surface plus would require additional sanding, priming and painting. It might be possible to send the trailer back to the factory and have them remove and replace the entire cracked wall which may be cheaper than paying a fiberglass body tech and then paint techs plus paint and materials. I think you may be further ahead to let the insurance company decide whether to scrap or repair, after all they will be footing the bill either way. As far as not having WD connected, that may have saved you from rolling your vehicle over also and I highly doubt that WD would have prevented the trailer from rolling. Chalk it up to a newbe mistake, making tight turns under hard acceleration or high speeds as you have found out can cause high profile items like TT to tip over. This is especially worse if the hard turn is on a hill which puts the TT into a tilt. I have a turn across traffic that I have to make coming down a 11% grade and the stop light and left turn is near the bottom of the hill.. I take that turn very slowly, I am sure there have been lots of folks behind me shouting unmentionable words. Even as a well seasoned towing veteran, that turn gives me the pucker factor every time. Whenever you are towing, you have to be far more cautious and aware of this potential issue. You can't be in a hurry and the correct thing most likely would have been to have stopped as best as possible or just coasting through (provided no oncoming traffic coming towards you) instead of giving it gas and darting across.
Gdetrailer 05/28/21 12:42pm Travel Trailers
RE: Retirement

...Took SS at age 62. Ran the numbers and it was to my benefit. Never regretted it. The only way it could be to your benefit is if you don't plan on living much past 80. The real way to look at SS is no one should expect to live past 80 since 80 is above the "average" life expectancy. Sure, some folks will live longer but some folks will not.. My Dad lived to 93, I have no expectations that I will live to 93, be nice to live longer than 80 but will take it day by day. But you should also plan to not depend on living solely off of SS by saving some money in a retirement vehicle.. Plenty of retirement saving vehicles now days to work with so there is zero excuses. Start young, take advantage of employer sponsored 401K plans by maxing out the company match (it is free money the employer throws at you just for setting aside a couple of percent of your wage into their 401K), start a Roth IRA, if you change jobs, roll the 401K from previous job(s) to the new company 401K or roll into a IRA. Resist the temptation to cash out the 401Ks before retirement age or taking loans against the 401Ks.. I have worked with a lot of people that never put one cent into a company sponsored 401K, then they complain that they will have to work past their 70s.. Companies are offering 100% tax free 401K money contribution matches and people turn it down :h .. One company I worked for offered their 401K match in company stock, $18 per share back then, today that stock is worth $200 per share.. Risky, sure but could not have retired early without maxing out that match..
Gdetrailer 05/27/21 02:23pm Around the Campfire
RE: Cost of RVing

Now THAT'S just funny!!! How's the sticks and bricks work for you on the road? Good MPG? Comfortable? What do you do when you reach your destination in your sticks & bricks??? :W Talk about comparing apples to oranges! Sticks and bricks are my residence, not my RV. My RV is "mobile" and I can take it anywhere I wish to. I can hop in the RV and go places or I can choose to stay at my sticks and bricks.. My RV is a temporary retreat, we take it places to hike, bike, sight see, not to live in it full time.. Some of us poor working slobs also have no choice but to have a real sticks and bricks because the job required us to physically show up to a physical building each day and finding campgrounds open in the winter in northern areas are not in the cards. Dreamy eyed folks buy into the idea that owning and fulltiming in a RV is going to save them tons of money over a real stationary sticks and bricks.. It is not, unless you wallydock 365 a yr and even then you have to heat it, you have to feed it fuel to move when you get chased out of your free spot and you have to spend a lot of money on generating electricity. When someone says they haven't paid more than $38 per night, it sounds inexpensive, until you add it up for a yr which is $13,870 and that is a lot of money just to park a vehicle each night.. Costs me $8.80 per night to live in a house, park 5 vehicles and a camping trailer plus a flat bed trailer.. Because of that, I can afford to spend some money a couple of weeks a yr camping at more expensive campgrounds around fun attractions and resort destinations instead of way out of the way never heard of backwoods camping spots for $38 per night or resorting to camping in county or a city park???..
Gdetrailer 05/27/21 01:40pm General RVing Issues
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