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RE: Battle Born Lithium

When you factor in the life span of the Lithium-Ion vs the lead acid the cost comes out almost the same. Minus all the maintenance and the weight and replacing them. Nothing like believing smoke and mirrors.. Maintenance? Once a year I simply add a few ounces of water per cell to my GC2s.. Never had to clean the terminals, you can EAT OFF THEM RIGHT NOW. If you are cleaning terminals often the SEAL between the terminals and battery case have been damaged or you are BOILING your batteries to death (bad converter). My first set of GC2s I never once removed the terminals to clean and they were as bright as the day I had installed the batteries when I replaced them. Life? My first set of GC2s were 9 yrs when I replaced them, they were still doing OK and could have gotten a few yrs more out of them. The only reason I replaced is I use them heavily when traveling since they support my home fridge conversion and didn't want my fridge to run out of power while traveling. Cost? $80 each for $160 and 9 yrs of use.. For me to spend $1500 and only get at best 10 yrs out of Lith batteries pretty much describes insanity. The "jury" is out on just how long Lith batteries really last. From my experience with commercial products that used Lith batteries is don't hold your breath, some only lasted a couple of yrs.. I will pocket the money I didn't spend on Lith batteries for OTHER much more fun things.
Gdetrailer 09/19/20 03:04pm Tech Issues
RE: FORD F-150 AXLE RATIO CHOICE

I think what people fail to notice is how much payload is used up on a F250 diesel because of the weight. The Gas F150 with HD payload package will have a larger payload than a 250 diesel and cost you about $12,000 less. For those non-believers experiment on the Ford build and price site. Now if you get a Gas 250 or diesel 350 you've moved up in towing capacity. What MOST folks are missing is you DON'T "need" F150 Eco. F250 with 6.2 is actually a much better choice overall for LONGEVITY when it comes to towing or hauling HEAVY LOADS for long periods of time than pushing limits with the lighter built F150 Eco. When you get into the F250 and higher line, Ford has DERATED the engine and transmission in order to offer a higher MTBF (Mean Time Between Failure). OP also does not "need" Diesel either which is why I suggested F250 with 6.2 instead of the Eco F150 with max Tow/Payload. Yes, you won't get head snapping high speed hole shots with the 6.2 but that is not the point of going that route, the point is getting a much more robust long living vehicle that is more suited for the task of heavy or hard use for extended periods of time. I once had a F150 Heavy half, all was good when I used it for grocery getting on very smooth roads.. When I started towing and put it on less than steller roads it fell flat with constant repair bills.. Rebuilt suspension twice in 140K miles, multiple brake refreshes (like clockwork at 40K miles).. Replaced the heavy half with F250 Super duty in 2003, that truck was a vast improvement, ball joints at 175K miles no other suspension parts when I sold it at 240K miles.. Brakes well past 120K miles at a time.. I found I spent a lot less of my time working and replacing parts on that truck.. Folks believe you need a Diesel or a turbo boosted V6 to haul a potato chip, you don't, really.. Folks often gravitate to those because they WANT the prestige of saying they have it.. Yes, a plain NA Gas engine does not elicit visions of excitement or boost ones testosterone but Ford HAS done a very good job at making the 6.2 a very dependable and capable engine.. If you want a bit more grunt then perhaps consider the 7.3 Gas engine. But in reality, with the OPs load, a nicely equipped F250 with 6.2 will be a very good match for their trailer. I have had no issues hauling 6500 lb TT loaded, have also loaded up my 18ft 10K flatbed trailer to the max of 10K and still have a lot of throttle left on 11% grades.. On edit.. For those who doubt me about F250 cost, here is my purchase documentation.. That is for a 2020 F250 Value XLT package, 4x2 Super cab short bed 6.2 gas 3.73 Electronic locking axle. I do not need or want the goofy leaky sun roof, nor do I need or want the heated/cooled leather seats (had a vehicle that came with leather seats, those seats were shot after 100K miles, won't do that again). https://i.imgur.com/q5RlYD3l.jpg That price includes taxes, title and even cost of extended warranty and the bottom line is all in out the door cost to me.
Gdetrailer 09/19/20 01:26pm Travel Trailers
RE: Advice to omit the auto change LP valve

You CAN have a leak and never smell it. Trust me, Trust all of us who are telling you this. Only leaks that are big enough to give off enough scent can be detected by a human, small leaks are impossible to sniff-out with a nose. If a leak is so "small" that you cannot detect the odorant it is not going to big enough to cause an explosion or fire. In a RV, you really do not have very many pipe joints, pretty much all of those are OUTSIDE where even IF there was a tiny, tiny, tiny leak it will do no harm. If you are concerned about wasting propane from the tiny, tiny, tiny leak it will be so little lost that it most likely would take years to lose a few ounces of propane. You have a far greater chance of the rubber hoses leaking propane through the PORES in RUBBER of the hoses (and yes, rubber has pores which is why tires lose pressure).. Heck, I have a nearly 40 yr old RV, the only thing I have done with mine is changed out the old weather beaten cracked hoses. I am not going to sweat an extremely small loss at one or two pipe joints that I cannot smell or even see soap bubbles (which by the way IS an "acceptable" test for natural and propane gas leaks). When in doubt, hit all the connections with a soapy solution and wait a few minutes to see if you have bubbles.. Folks are scared silly and way over thinking this..
Gdetrailer 09/18/20 09:11pm Tech Issues
RE: Advice to omit the auto change LP valve

why do you need the auto feature if you leave one tank off? I figured someone might wander.. This way I don't end up with TWO EMPTY cylinders at the same time. It is very easy to never look at the regulator "flag", most folks just turn on both Cylinders and let it rip and forget about it.. The downside to that is if you forget to periodically check for the empty cylinder red flag, the change over happens and you do not know it, you are now running out your last cylinder.. That would be a real bummer in the middle of the night in very cold temps and you have absolutely nothing to keep you warm at 2:00 AM. Or worse yet run out on say Sunday morning at 2:00 AM and no propane suppliers are open until Monday morning at 9:00 AM.. Opening only ONE at a time allows me to know that I ALWAYS have always a FULL cylinder ready to use and when it runs out at a bad time I simply just get up and go outside a open the full cylinder and be back running in minutes. Then I can simply get the other cylinder refilled and ready to do over again.. I use it like a backup system. Got it?
Gdetrailer 09/18/20 02:37pm Tech Issues
RE: Advice to omit the auto change LP valve

If it does develop a leak, you WILL smell it, so as long as you do not smell anything there is nothing wrong with your reg.Not true at all. People go nuts trying to find propane leaks. Those "people" you mention obviously do not know what they are doing or how to troubleshoot or plain can't smell (yes, it is possible to not be able to smell due to medical conditions but in that case you won't have any taste either and life would not be much fun in that case). COMMERCIAL Propane contains Ethyl Mercaptan that IS ADDED by the Propane suppliers which is a highly offensive and potent smell. Smells a lot like rotten eggs, some folks might think a bit on rotten cabbage. Takes very little of this additive to get your attention and it is INTENTIONALLY ADDED so you CAN DETECT AND CORRECT a problem. Use your nose and you WILL easily find the source of the leak. You can also use a mixture of your favorite hand dish detergent mixed in some water and use a small paint brush to brush the soapy water over pipe joints. ANY leak SLIGHT what so ever WILL show bubbles, you just have to be patient and wait a couple of minutes per joint and watch for bubbles to form. Alternate is the same soapy mixture that you buy for kids to blow bubbles. Your "friends" don't know what they are doing.. I wouldn't take any "advice" from them. Propane just like Natural Gas is colorless and odorless and ALL suppliers in the US States are REQUIRED to include an odorant for leak detection for both types of gas.
Gdetrailer 09/18/20 02:28pm Tech Issues
RE: FORD F-150 AXLE RATIO CHOICE

My new trailer (Keystone 26RBS) weighs only 6600 lbs + cargo. I’m about to order a 2021 Ford F-150 equipped as follows: V6 3.5 engine Standard (not Max) Trailer Towing Package. This truck has a 10-speed auto transmission, and can tow 10,500 lbs and the same 16,200 lbs GCWR with EITHER the 3.31 or 3.55 AXLE RATIO, according to Ford. I was thinking about ordering the 3.31 axle ratio for fuel economy on flat highways, and pulling the trailer in 9th or 8th gear if necessary, which would raise the axle ratio as needed. Can anyone help with this decision? Thanks. Pierre You don't mention what cab size and trim level you are planning on buying, those are very important factors that will greatly affect your actual towing capacity. Towing capacity is limited to the leftover available payload you have when you subtract the curb weight, passenger weight, fuel weight and OPTIONS above the BASE model level of the vehicle.. Factory and aftermarket options add more curb weight and that reduces your over all payload. The numbers you fished out are for BASE model (regular cab, short bed, 4x2, XL trim). Move to Crew cab, long bed, 4x4, Platinum trim and you WILL need Max Tow/Payload option in order to get you a high enough payload for the trailer weight you are planning.. You are starting out pretty darn heavy at 6600 lbs EMPTY, put in say 1,000 lbs of cargo in the trailer, plus add a passenger or two to the vehicle and perhaps a few items in the truck bed and you could be easily north of 8,000 lbs.. Trailer tongue becomes "cargo" of your tow vehicle, 6600 lbs of empty trailer at 15% tongue weight is 990 lbs alone that your truck needs to be able to support. 7600 lbs (6600+1000 of cargo in trailer) at 15% is 1140 lbs of cargo needed. So, 1140 lbs of trailer tongue, add 100 lbs for WD hitch, driver plus passenger 400 lbs, 200 lbs of stuff in the bed.. That comes to 1840 lbs of "cargo" your truck needs to handle.. A loaded Crew cab F150 Platinum 4x4 without Max Tow/Haul option might get you barely 2000 lbs of cargo.. In times past you were lucky to get 1600 lbs of cargo in that configuration.. I might also add, for the money you are about to part with on a F150, you might be able to get into a pretty nicely setup F250 and enjoy considerably MORE cargo capacity for nearly the same amount of money.. A fully loaded Platinum F150 4x4 (Eco, Max tow/Payload and all the bells and whistles) can go for more than $60K US. The trick here is ordering exactly the way you want with only the optional items you want. I ordered a 2020 F250 Basic XLT package Super cab short bed with 6.2, 7.3 ratio with electronic locking axle. This combo gives me 3800 lbs of cargo. Cost out the door with no trade in was under $45K US Yeah, I get it, mileage may not be as good empty, but it IS better than you think.. Currently my 2020 is getting me 16.5 empty, have seen that as high as 17.0.. At 16.5 MPG, my 34 gallon fuel tank gets me around 500 miles per fill up.. When towing the mileage on my 2020 drops to 10-11 MPG but so will the Eco F150.. Eco F150 might get you 20-22 MPG empty AND you will need to drive it like you are walking on egg shells to keep out of the turbo to get that.. so we are talking not all that much more cost to drive per mile in a F250 and you do not have to get 20" tires to get nearly 4000 lbs of cargo capacity..
Gdetrailer 09/18/20 01:33pm Travel Trailers
RE: Storing a Trailer Aid

Put it on craigslist? Then buy a low profile jack which will fit in more places and be more universal than that ramp.. Not to mention your tow vehicle SHOULD have a jack anyway, it's not like you are going to be able to use that ramp to change your Tow Vehicles tires.. Just another unitasker device solution in search of a use to find a home for.. ONE Multitasking solution like a jack often beats a single tasking device..
Gdetrailer 09/17/20 03:54pm General RVing Issues
RE: Advice to omit the auto change LP valve

Im going off the highly scientific data of my camping friends saying "the regulators on trailers are junk and leak all the time." I dont use the auto feature and hoped i could find a higher quality single regulator for a cheaper price. The Marshal high flow is $30 but it looks to be the same "crimped" construction as someone described above. My lack of knowledge on the subject makes me wonder if its the overall construction that fails. Or do the auto change components fail? You don't need a new regulator. But you DO need NEW FRIENDS! They are 100% "scientifically" wrong and you are just following their bad advice like a "lemming" right off the cliff. Leave your auto change reg in place, only leave one cylinder turned on and enjoy. I personally do that and have done that on 2 different trailers with no issues.. The nice thing about having auto changeover and only have one cylinder on is you can simply shut off the empty tank when empty while camping, open the full cylinder and never have to break camp to get cylinder filled or have to physically change cylinders. If it does develop a leak, you WILL smell it, so as long as you do not smell anything there is nothing wrong with your reg. If you currently have a hose leaking, just buy a new hose, buy 2 and replace both at the same time just to have fresh hoses.
Gdetrailer 09/17/20 03:42pm Tech Issues
RE: A V-10, a Scan Gauge and lots of good karma...

I think you transposed a number, not aware of a 1071 code.. Should be a P0171 which is Bank1 Lean code. Not fatal by any means, just means that the system has reached the max fuel trim on that bank based off of the O2 sensor data, in this case best to clear the code ONCE then see if it comes back after MANY complete drive cycles (drive cycles a from cold start to fully warmed and driven for a short period then shut off and allowed to fully cool off). If it comes back THEN start searching for the reason. Continued operation with Lean condition code will eventually poisoning and damaging the cats, O2 sensors. Dump the Scan gauge for real diagnostics, they often cannot go deep enough for good diagnosis. Get a real standalone scanner, they are dirt cheap now days and they can give you much more data access than a scan gauge can ever do and not to mention no need to search the Internet for what the code means most standalone readers have that info built in (I have a $70 one from HF which tells me what the code means and what the most possible items may cause that code). In this case, upstream O2 sensor is detecting a lean condition on bank 1, IF it was really from High altitude, I suspect you would have also had code for Bank 2 lean condition at the same time. Now, you could simply have a lazy Bank 1 O2 sensor (they do go bad) OR you may have a vacuum leak near bank 2 intake manifold.. Or you could have a CRACKED OR LEAKING Bank 1 exhaust manifold or manifold gasket(extremely common on all of the "Modular" blocks) which believe it or not can leak enough to affect the Oxy level detected by the O2 sensor.. IF you have a exhaust manifold leak, this one can cause serious over fueling and running extremely Rich on that bank (computer turns up the fuel trim to compensate for the lean condition), this one you will smell excessively rich fuel smell on the exhaust and also will quickly poison your cats.. Or it could have been nothing more than a glitch.. Only time will tell.
Gdetrailer 09/15/20 05:14pm General RVing Issues
RE: Jumper Cables A Jumble Of Compromises

ADT7976 is 4 gauge 500 amp Most "jumper cables" you find at Walmart and most other retailers are 6 ga or even 8 ga. I HAVE burned up 6 ga jumpers on a cold winters day. Even worse yet, most premade jumper cables now days are cheating, using Copper COATED ALUMINUM (CCA)wire, manufacturers SHOULD label it as CCA but often they do not mention that it is CCA. Manufacturers electrically (electroplate) a very thin layer of copper over top of the aluminum wire and you simply left with a much lower capacity Aluminum wire with a fancy copper coat. The copper coating is to little to make any resistance or capacity difference over plain aluminum, it is solely there to stop the aluminum from corroding into a worthless high resistance white powder. That makes that 4 ga copper coated ALUMINUM wire more equivalent to 6 ga all copper wire as far as Ampacity goes. Good example is this one.. HERE The price for the above is $20 for 20 ft ga jumper cables (40 ft of wire when adding pos and negative).. Box and description does not mention CCA but it is in expensive compared to all Copper wire for 4ft in that ga. One reviewer in the link above measured the resistance of the jumper in the above link.. This is what they found.. "I am pleased with the 20-foot 4 Gauge jumper cable set made in China by EPAUTO. The cable is copper coated aluminum, known as “CCA.” It took microscopic examination to see the aluminum core in the fine wires forming the cable. I measured the resistance using an Agilent 34401A 6.5 digit bench multimeter in 4-wire resistance mode to be about 0.4 ohm per 1000 feet which is appropriate for #4 copper coated aluminum. This is equivalent to #6 copper. I was hoping this cable was 100% copper, but it was not advertised as such. " 4 ga copper wire can run $2 per ft easily, 40ft would be $80 not including the 4 clamps.. Yeah, I am aware of the "skin effect", please do not go there for DC. Skin effect only comes into play with AC (Alternating Current) and at HIGH FREQUENCIES (think RADIO TRANSMITTER FREQUENCIES). OP is simply USING something (the wire) he already has laying around instead of buying a new cheaply made and less superior jumper cable.
Gdetrailer 09/15/20 04:44pm Tech Issues
RE: Watch those glass stove tops.

Found out later she had large chilli pot on back burner. I'm certain this directed a lot of heat towards glass top.....big pots up front. X2! Thermal shock (extreme fast high temperature changes). Same thing as sitting a very hot Pyrex glass baking dish from the oven on a room temperature metal stove top.. You can do it, but eventually the Pyrex vessel will fail from thermal shock and when it fails it will be a spectacular event! My Mom lost a few Pyrex baking dishes that way. I treat ANY glassware with care concerning very quick temperature change extremes, even Corelle dishes (which are nothing more than dishes made from Pyrex and are amazingly hearty) are not exempt from Thermal shock (DW has broken a few Corelle dishes that way).
Gdetrailer 09/15/20 04:09pm Travel Trailers
RE: Flying Floating Flooring

Well one can roll the dice buck the advise of the manufacturer (who designed, manufactured it and most likely knows a lot more about how it reacts than any arm chair Internet Keyboardist would know) and see if your experiment fails or succeeds. I would bet that most likely it will ultimately fail in utter disaster with your glued down flooring buckling after some time passes. If it doesn't buckle, you are most likely are going to deal with damage from the slide moving back and forth over it ANYWAYS.. Many folks who installed wood flooring under the slide area end up with the slide dragging on the flooring causing gouges in the newly minted flooring. Even "engineered" flooring will be thicker than carpet and will not give like carpet. My best advice would be to lay CARPET under the area that the slide will go over when in.. Then lay your flooring around the carpet and frame with some trim work on the floor.. Or if very careful you cut the padding short of the edge of the carpet then fold carpet under then you can use a few hundred staples through the carpet to tack it down, then lay your wood flooring around the carpet. Don't like carpet at the slide? Then get some vinyl flooring and put down in the area the slide will move over. Check with a few flooring shops to see if they have some discontinued vinyl floor or perhaps some leftover scraps from installs that may be large enough.. Oh, by the way, "engineered wood flooring" is another term for leftover wood and paper scraps mixed in a bunch of glue compressed under high pressure and if you are lucky a thin wood veneer is glued to the top.. Pretty much a MDF (Medium Density Fiber) panel board material.. It WILL absorb water and it WILL EXPAND, not so much with contracting once it expands even if the moisture has been removed. You are buying expensive junk. Weighs a ton also.. I would never consider putting a wood floor (including "engineered artificial fake wood flooring") into a RV, RVs experience huge changes in temperature and humidity. Yes, there are folks who have done it and been successful but more likely more failures have happened.. Go with vinyl or carpet, much more forgiving in the RV environment, I used peal and stick squares in my RV, quick and easy and if one gets damaged, pull up the damaged tile and drop a replacement tile in..
Gdetrailer 09/12/20 01:13pm General RVing Issues
RE: No 12v input from battery, 2004 Terry Trailer

2oldman: The two 6v were in series, but one was inadvertently reversed. I assume that created a reverse polarity situation. Sorry, I don't know how to post a diagram. carringb: Wiring diagram shows a 40 amp fuse between the battery and converter but I can't find it. Believe me, I have looked and looked... Old-Biscuit: I agree. But, cant find anything like that. No 30 amp fuses on the DC Dist Fuse Panel; just 15s and 20s. I need to find the in-line fuse/breaker somehow. Thanks for all your comments and insights. Follow the battery cable (likely the negative) from the battery to where it goes under the trailer look for small (approx 1" x 1.5") circuit breaker (box). Should be 2-3 ft from the battery, it may or may not have a reset button. Except ----- Fuse will be on POS cable On the a-frame and will be a small 2 stud box...reset is typically on side of the DC Circuit Breaker Example: DC Circuit Breaker https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/U6gAAOSwXI1cJYAD/s-l300.jpg height=400 width=400 Example: Reverse Polarity fuses on DC Dist Fuse Panel----40A https://www.jaycoowners.com/attachments/photobucket/img_429461_1_7984286a4c4c05fedd65f1f1fac21627.jpg height=400 width=400 One should note that the breaker shown in photo IS a "self reseting" or "auto reseting" breaker (IE no reset button to push) and is typical breaker used by RV manufacturers. HOWEVER, in order to get this breaker to auto reset, one MUST REMOVE BOTH POWER SOURCES (IE converter must be powered down AND the battery source must be disconnected from the circuit). Once all power has been removed from the circuit then and only then will the breaker reset. Do that first before throwing parts at this.
Gdetrailer 09/11/20 08:45pm Travel Trailers
RE: Trailer brake advice

only 35 miles??? Geez, Put on some pants and drive it home! What;s the big deal? 35 miles?? Just go a little slower, you will eventually make it home, It's not like you are driving across the country, over mountain passes... Really?+1 I would just drive slow and keep your distance. A few times I have forgot to connect the 7-pin and drove for an hour before I even noticed. Absolutely terrible "advice". You DO realize that MANY accidents often happen close to home? Just a couple of "examples" I easily found discussing this. Here "The NHTSA reports that approximately 52 percent of all accidents occur within a five-mile radius of home and 69 percent of all car accidents occur within a ten-mile radius from home. While these car accident statistics seem rather discouraging, there is no reason to give up driving altogether. A car accident survey conducted by Progressive Insurance Company reveals that, while most car accidents occur close to home, these accidents tend to be minor compared to auto accidents that tend to occur farther from home and on busy highways and interstates." Here "Back in 2001, Progressive insurance conducted research with over 11,000 people & found that over 52% of reported crashes occurred within five miles from home and 77% of accidents occurred within a 15-mile distance. Two decades later, the latest accident statistics from the NHTSA paints a pretty similar picture. While there has been a steady drop in the frequencies of car accidents and subsequent serious injuries, the overall tendencies of accidents happening close to home is stressful for several reasons, including: Residential neighborhoods in the United States are assumed to be pedestrian-friendly zones where kids, elderly people, disabled people are guaranteed a safe environment. An uptick in distracted driving and accidents closer to home puts all these people at risk. Car crashes in residential areas near a driver’s home are sure to disturb the peace and quiet of the neighborhood and disrupt the lives of residents. These types of auto accidents are bound to drive down real estate prices within neighborhoods experiencing car accidents on a frequent basis, which subsequently affects homeowners and their abilities to make the most out of their lucrative investments. Why are People Less Attentive Near Their Homes? 1. Overconfident Drivers One of the most obvious reasons for frequent accidents close to home is the fact that drivers become overconfident and essentially drive in autopilot when in their comfort zones. There is a tendency for texting, multitasking, not wearing a seat belt, sending emails, dialing a call, or eating a snack while coming back home or leaving home early in the morning, which can lead to an accident. It’s always imperative that drivers stay alert even when they’re within a few miles of home. 2. Collisions with Parked Vehicles Parked vehicles along the side of the road in residential neighborhoods can be both victims as well as perpetrators of car accidents close to home, or anywhere. A poorly parked car that isn’t aligned with the designated parking area is simply inviting trouble for the owner because of the general tendencies for drivers to go into autopilot while on familiar roads. On the other hand, a stationary car is in no way capable of avoiding an oncoming car and can lead to a collision without having done anything wrong. The liability within these types of auto accidents can be somewhat tricky, which is why hiring an experienced car accident attorney is so crucial for your case’s success. 3. Fatigue Most car accidents that occur within residential areas are not a result of speeding, as speed limits are strictly established and enforced in the United States. However, one factor that cannot be accounted for is the mental state while someone is distracted driving. Long working hours and the subsequent physical and mental exhaustion from work can lead to a lack of attention that is needed for safe driving and can lead to minor or even fatal accidents. 4. Blame it on the Booze It’s rather common for people to avoid freeways and prefer drinking at a bar or a friend’s place near home when they go out to drink and choose to drive to the destination. While this reduces the chances of an accident on the freeway, it does not rule out late-night drunk driving back home after a wildly successful party. DUIs lead to an estimated 16,000 fatal accidents every year, which is about 40% of the total motor vehicle fatality rate in the United States. 5. Rush Hour Even the safest drivers are victims of rush hour traffic and are always looking for ways to avoid getting caught in it via their cell phones. This can tend to lead to some early morning rash driving, as people try to beat the 8 a.m. traffic snarl. However, it often ends up causing more damage in the form of an accident right in your own neighborhood. 6. Underage driving Residential areas are also where kids with no drivers licenses are often seen driving. This could be a result of some very successful sneaking from the kids or a dangerous indulgence granted by the parents. Either way, these kids potentially make neighborhood roads dangerous as they are not physically and mentally capable of safe driving." Much better to be prepared for "Mr Murphy" when he comes calling, you CAN easily find very low cost Time based controllers for around $30 which are better than "nothing" at all.. Not hard to install, brake light connection (hint, third brake light is a easy place to get the brake light connection), power connection and run a wire back to your hitch and done, doesn't have to be permanent or pretty.
Gdetrailer 09/07/20 02:17pm Travel Trailers
RE: Another comparison site SiO2 chemistry

My batteries rarely see any discharge. I'm going to have to force it a time or two. They are T105sand now 8 years old but in good shape. However I'm tired of having to add water every two or three weeks. The Load ocenter is set and is charging properly.The batteries I can use are defined by the size of the T105s, not much as in any room for anything else minus an inch or so of wiggle room. I'm tired of the corrosion too. Trojan makes a Gel Cell maintenance free and a glass mat...but no one stocks them it seems or any thing else other than the ultra high price Life Line. I don't need cutting edge chemistry, I want long life maintence free that will give equal or better reserve and amps as the T105 at a price not much or any higher than the T105, which I can buy anywhere from $68.00in Fla to $160.00 or so in Az. If I can get 4 maintenance free 6 volts that will fit in the confines dictated by the T105 for $180.00 each or less I will be a happy camper. Surely in these forums is someone with a connection or information on where to find these??? I'll dance at their next wedding if they will provide some information or sources. I really do not understand what folks like you are doing to have to add water every three weeks or have so much corrosion on the terminals. Adding water ever three weeks and not using the batteries much you have an issue with your Converter or charging system period. Maybe you are just buying used leftover batteries to save a couple of nickels? I check my Sam's GC2s ONCE A YEAR and when they are new only have to add less than 10 oz across both batteries. As my first set aged to 10 yrs old they took 20oz-30 oz of water across all cells. I replaced them even though they seemed to have considerable capacity, I depend on them to power my Home fridge conversion. Corrosion on the terminals? Yeah, you ARE way over charging AND you most likely bought BUM batteries with BAD TERMINAL SEALS! Had that happen on a lawn and garden tractor battery once, could not keep those terminals clean since the seal was compromised on the terminals and the acid CREEPS right up the terminals. The terminals on my first set of GC2s NEVER, EVER needed to be cleaned, pulled them off just once just to check and they were so clean they did not need freshened up. If you have a stock converter, you will do better by replacing it with a different (better) brand.. For the record, I am using a PD9160 with external Charge Wizard, trailer is hooked up to shore power 24/7 when not camping and only get to camp about 2 weeks a year.. Throwing a bunch of money into insanely expensive batteries to fix your problem is just silly and most likely will result in considerable disappointment when you kill your insanely expensive batteries before their time.. It isn't like you can add water to any Lithium based batteries and when they quit, well lets say they just quit with zero warning.
Gdetrailer 09/02/20 03:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Times Up, Told You So, DirecTV is Dead

When will the internet come to the country? You can get internet via satellite. Yet one more dish atop a RV or house. Sure, pay $80 per month and get high latency, laggy Internet and have very low data caps.. Your a funny guy.. Not. There is NOTHING free, Timac is well known for stirring the pot bragging that Sat Dishes are dead.. They are very far from dead, still well alive and kicking, sorry Timac, your "predictions" are dead. BOTH Dish and Direct are STILL there AND there is a new no frills sat service called "Orby" making that now THREE sat services.. You are also forgetting about cable services, many people shuffle around whatever service gives the best deal.. Not unusual to see folks exit one service only to show up using another service. Streaming is not viable "everywhere", costs a lot of money to support a streaming habit and streaming HD video requires considerable speed and data allowances, something that is often missing in rural areas that are under served or not served by Cell phone, fiber or cable. Streaming also requires on to PAY for streaming accounts, not ALL channels on sat or cable is available on every streaming service do your end result is paying $5 here, $10 there for each service a month and after paying for three or more services and adding in the additional internet costs you are now in it for MORE than what it would cost for just getting your fix from Dish, Direct, Orby or your local cable co.. Everything in this post is a worst case scenario. I get truly unlimited data pretty cheap - you just have to hunt for deals. We have several streaming services and all summed up don't equate to half of what I would pay if I had Satellite. And that's first year. Sat companies have a way of doubling your "introductory" price after the first year. So I pay about 1/4 of what a long term Sat subscriber would pay. Add to that, I get way more content and content I want instead paying for a lot I don't. X2 I cut the cord years ago and still pay less than the basic package DirecTV was giving me and I get 5 times the programs, internet cost is not that much if you shop around and besides I need internet for my business so that cost is not a factor for me, internet gets you a hundred times more programs than dish/dircTV combined, you pay for only what you want and many of it is Free.. With internet you can even watch your local news anywhere in North/South America, cant do that with dish/direcTV.. Timac, you are full of it. Perhaps you should move away from the big city and see what life looks like without fiber internet. My phone co only offers 1.5 mbs for $100 per month, has so bad of latency even DSL reports speed test does not function. Streaming SD video is an exercise of frustration and HD streaming is out.. Just recently moved to cable Internet, now paying $150 per month just so my DD is able to do college online Zoom with out the need of waiting 2 minutes for the video to catch up.. Sat Internet is a terrible option also, anyone who has no other alternative hates it with a passion, it is not what those smiling faces on TV commercials try to make it out.. Getting email on Sat Internet can be a chore. Even my cable co Internet service, it has data caps, streaming video and especially HD video can easily exceed a lot of data caps.. I have zero care to stream, I HAVE had to deal with streaming video at my work place, it has been very frustrating to deal with video lag, blocky pixelated picturers to frozen screens to complete loss of screens under BUSINESS purposes let alone in watching constant reruns of of most cable programming. From what I have gathered, you MUST join and pay a FEE for EACH streaming service, not EVERY streaming service offers EVERY possible TV show that can be found on Dish or Direct. So, you have to join Netflix, Disney, Showtime, HBO, Amazon prime and on and on.. $5 there, $5 here, $10 there, $10 for Amazon Prime and so on per month you will shovel out to get "premium content" just sign up for 5 services then add in the cost of Internet and you easily exceed what I pay for Dish or even Direct. I might also point out, Internet streaming uses very high video and audio compression, on a GOOD TV it IS very noticable, while Dish and Direct also use compression, it is at a much lower level. I can easily see the difference, to me, the compression artifacts are distracting.. If you are using a phone or Tablet to stream your programs, you will never see compression distortion and you are not worried about butchered audio.. However, SOME folks like myself DO care when we put it on 50" or larger TVs. Streaming has it's place in life but as a "main stream" video programing source it is not. Most folks do not really add all the costs up of streaming, I DO. Must have stable FAST enough Internet which is not cheap, MUST signup and PAY for each streaming service, once again not cheap. Then if you have more than one TV, you will need PAY FOR multiple accounts or HIGHER SERVICE TIERS which will cost you more.. Example, Basic Netflix account allows for ONE "Device" at $7.99 per month for SD video.. Want 2 you have to Bump up to Standard "HD Plan" at $10.99 per month.. FOUR or more "devices" and you have to sign up for Netflix "Premium plan" which is $13.99 per month! Doesn't take much to start cutting into your supposed savings for cutting the cord if you are a household of more than one.. I have my Dish setup serving my whole house (6 TVs) for under $100 and I also have DVR too boot.. I am not paying extra for each TV either.. Like I mentioned, sat TV IS still here, It has not gone away like you predicted and it WILL be here for a considerably much longer time than you like to preach.. With the introduction of Orby a couple of years ago the Sat TV folks are making a lier out of your doomsday prediction. Maybe in 50 or 100 yrs from now your prediction might come true, but by then standalone TVs may have become a thing of the past like Black and White NTSC TVs with only VHF tuners (I DO remember those).
Gdetrailer 08/30/20 01:37pm Technology Corner
RE: Times Up, Told You So, DirecTV is Dead

When will the internet come to the country? You can get internet via satellite. Yet one more dish atop a RV or house. Sure, pay $80 per month and get high latency, laggy Internet and have very low data caps.. Your a funny guy.. Not. There is NOTHING free, Timac is well known for stirring the pot bragging that Sat Dishes are dead.. They are very far from dead, still well alive and kicking, sorry Timac, your "predictions" are dead. BOTH Dish and Direct are STILL there AND there is a new no frills sat service called "Orby" making that now THREE sat services.. You are also forgetting about cable services, many people shuffle around whatever service gives the best deal.. Not unusual to see folks exit one service only to show up using another service. Streaming is not viable "everywhere", costs a lot of money to support a streaming habit and streaming HD video requires considerable speed and data allowances, something that is often missing in rural areas that are under served or not served by Cell phone, fiber or cable. Streaming also requires on to PAY for streaming accounts, not ALL channels on sat or cable is available on every streaming service do your end result is paying $5 here, $10 there for each service a month and after paying for three or more services and adding in the additional internet costs you are now in it for MORE than what it would cost for just getting your fix from Dish, Direct, Orby or your local cable co..
Gdetrailer 08/29/20 09:33pm Technology Corner
RE: Stone look tile around fireplace

Lowes sells it. all the small pieces of stone are fixed to a 12x12 screen. The stock wall board has a wall paper . Has anyone used a product called simple mat for prep? Like this? https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/7e670ea7-0912-41c1-83ad-3717342131c0/svn/grey-blend-honed-cruz-bay-mosaic-tile-xs3pgo-64_1000.jpg height=300 width=300 There is considerable amount of weight in the stone plus grout.. I wouldn't directly attach that to existing RV wall board unless you really like putting the stone back up often.. RV wall board is thin, not supported well, flexes quit a bit and not to mention the surface is nothing more than a sheet of paper glued to the wall board.. The job is only as good as the weakest point which most likely will be the paper on the wall board tearing away..
Gdetrailer 08/27/20 08:17pm Travel Trailers
RE: JB Weld or ? Quick Water Tank Fix

I know we’ll have to get. A new tank. We’ve got one more camping trip this year Go dry. Get a couple of blue 5 gallon potable water jugs.. Bypass the RV tank, you can disconnect the water pump inlet from the RV tank, run a hose from the water pump inlet and drop it into the 5 gallon water jug. Pump should be able to draw from the jug.. Then you can plan how to fix or replace the RV tank over winter. If you have a pickup truck, they do make large bladder type of tanks folks use to haul extra water which could be rigged up also to bypass your failed tank. Otherwise slathering glue like JB on plastic tank will result in water leaks which will damage your RV. As others have mentioned, plastic welding with correct plastic welder is the correct tool for the job.
Gdetrailer 08/27/20 07:49pm Tech Issues
RE: Electronics repair shop needed

Regarding the eBay seller: At first it was just one guy doing the repair - now there are many companies offering the same. It was a simple fix. Hazard? The unit I have in question still works - the all-important break-away is still operational. The state-dependent-requirement of supplemental braking action is defunct. So, yes, I would have it repaired if possible. All probably more information than needed but no, I'm not out of my mind. BOTH "functions" are EQUALLY IMPORTANT, 1/2 working is not anywhere close to 100% working and most likely will be a considerably more complex part to repair than the breakaway part. Comparing a FICM fix to your defunct brake system is apples and oranges, can't really compare them. The "fix" will be entirely different and most likely your brake system will be far more complex than you think to fix. The folks offering repaired FICM are most likely NOT real "companies", most likely they are nothing more than ONE person tinkering in their garage or basement (it isn't any "secret" on how to fix FICMs). IF that was a real legit electronic repair company they would have at least their own real website and not attempting to sell their "products" via an AUCTION SITE. These sellers have no skin in the game after the purchase. They are often "fly by night" vendors. That IS one of the big issues when dealing with EBay stuff. Since you have it in your mind that it is a simple fix, perhaps contact a few of the EBay FICM sellers to see if they are interested in taking up your cause? What do you have to lose? Honestly, the manufacturer of your brake system is out of business, you have bought a used system WITH THE SAME ISSUE, cut your losses and go buy a new brake system with a warranty. Chances are it will be more dependable than a cobbled up repair. This advice IS coming from a person who also attempts to fix everything, there is a point in time that you simply HAVE to put the fork in it and call it dead.. Heck I have a couple of 1970's CRT TVs sitting in my basement that still work, yes, I have repaired them multiple times over the yrs but they are not "reliable" the pix isn't as good as newer HD TVs, they are huge, weigh a ton and eat electricity.. They got replaced with newer LCD TVs that I repaired.. And you simply cannot give them away. Those OLD CRT TVs are destined for the curb.. Dumped my 2003 truck with 240,000 miles a couple of yrs ago, thing was literally rusting away in front of my eyes, repaired the bed wheel wells, repaired rusting brake lines, repaired rusting transmission lines, repaired rusting power steering lines, Tailgate was nearly rotted through, drivers door was shot, passenger door was nearly ratted through.. Was the best most reliable truck I have ever had with only a couple of trips to the dealer for repairs.. Just dumped our 2006 truck this spring, kept dumping money into repairs, bed rails rotted out, doors were showing sings of rot and the final kicker was the passenger exhaust header gasket blew out, no way was I going to sink $800-$1,000 into that repair which typically results in multiple broken exhaust studs in the process that require drilling out the studs.. That truck only had 120,000 miles.. Yes, your brake system was expensive, yes, it will be expensive to buy a new unit, Yes, it is irritating that it broke, but... Sometimes you have to let things go..
Gdetrailer 08/21/20 03:52pm Technology Corner
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