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RE: Kohler 5CKM21 no compression in both cylinders

Sad.. Sorry to hear this. But, I can't blame the shops for not wanting to work on it while installed in the MH. Way to difficult to work on when you have extremely limited access. Finding a knowledgeable and good small engine tech isn't easy either and the good ones are up to their eyeballs in work and don't come cheap. Typically many shops will want the entire gen assy to be removed form the RV, if you had to pay someone to do that plus the cost to reinstall it would get even more expensive to the point it is cheaper to replace with new or like a lot of folks have done, use a portable gen instead.
Gdetrailer 09/27/21 01:42pm Tech Issues
RE: 3500w power inverter

I get what you're saying. I'd like everything to be DC and not have to invert. I am buying a new RV in a couple weeks so I'll be kitting that one out with what you've listed (usb 5v stuff). For now, I do have some USB ports in my rig, but they're too low a wattage to charge my laptops unless I replaced them. A few feet of 12ga wire to a new 12V cig/power port from either your batteries or your fuse block which ever is easiest to get to, would get you into using a universal 12V DC to laptop charger right now. Much cheaper and easier than retrofitting your existing RV with a huge inverter not to mention which you are planning to make the existing RV go away anyways which means ripping out the inverter upgrade. This would give you time to think out what you are going to do without committing to needless upgrades. Unless you are planning to run the A/C from battery you can easily get away with a far smaller inverter.. Running a dehumidifier from inverter/battery is going to be a tall enough order.. Even the smallest (20 pint) compressor based dehumidifiers typically will draw 6A(1.1Amp for compressor and 4.9A for the fan)at 110V (roughly 700W). That would translate to roughly 60A at 12V, 24 hrs of that will mean you need 1440Ahrs worth of battery capacity to if you ran it continuous just for the dehumidifier alone. If dehumidifier is your biggest load, then a 1200W inverter for it and a smaller 300W-400W inverter for small items like TV would basically all you need. Putting all your eggs into one huge inverter basket in this case is not the most efficient way to go about this.
Gdetrailer 09/27/21 01:25pm Tech Issues
RE: Carbon Monoxide Detector Proper Placement

I've been rebuilding the inside of my 5er after a structural failure and am on the last mile. I've built new cabinets, new sink, etc - and I'm down to putting the finishing touches (DW's punch list). There's a couple of interesting items. First my Carbon Monoxide detector - battery operated - was (originally) placed about 5' up from floor level - in the "upstairs" sleeping area. Second, on the bottom of the detector it states "Replace after 2015) and my 5er was manufactured in 2010. I'm going to address item number two with a new unit, but I thought Carbon Monoxide is heavier than air and should be mounted down near the floor (Like my propane detector - which is hardwired to 12v near my power distribution center). Where is the proper location for a Carbon Monoxide to be placed in the Trailer. Thanks in advance! josh You can easily find that information by looking up the manufacturers installation instructions. Carbon Monoxide is actually slightly lighter than "air" (an oxymoron since "air" is made up of many different elements like oxygen, nitrogen in specific amounts and so on). But there is EPA guidance on the placement subject.. Per https://www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq/where-should-i-place-carbon-monoxide-detector "Where Should I Place a Carbon Monoxide Detector? Because carbon monoxide is slightly lighter than air and also because it may be found with warm, rising air, detectors should be placed on a wall about 5 feet above the floor. The detector may be placed on the ceiling. Do not place the detector right next to or over a fireplace or flame-producing appliance. Keep the detector out of the way of pets and children. Each floor needs a separate detector. If you are getting a single carbon monoxide detector, place it near the sleeping area and make certain the alarm is loud enough to wake you up." As far as replacing old CO detectors goes, it isn't a bad thing to periodically replace aging detectors. As they age, they can go out of calibration and/or lose sensitivity making them a lot less effective and a lot more a safety hazard if they malfunction (fail to alarm) or alarm after you are dead. Newer detectors after a certain date have a built in timer which keeps track of how long it has been in use, counting down to the End of Life of the unit. When it reaches EOL, it will typically have some sort of failure beep or indicator and it will no longer function. For replacements, I prefer the ones that have a digital readout. The readout gives you indication if there are trace amounts of CO in your enclosure well be fore the alarm mode. Now days alarm typically starts at 100 PPM over a specified amount of time. I use a wood heater/furnace to heat my home so knowing that there is even 1 PPM showing on the detector gives me a lot of time to take action if the wood furnace is not drafting correctly..
Gdetrailer 09/27/21 12:03pm Tech Issues
RE: 3500w power inverter

makes sense... It's funny, if you look up reviews of inverters on the internet, a lot of times they'll include "didn't ship with wires" sort of thing. Maybe they're throwing them in to just check that box. The inverter is listed as 1a idle draw, so 12w, which I thought was great. I want to be able to run a tv, computer, charge phones and laptop, and possibly run a dehumidifier if/when I need. I have 0awg left over from the battery project so I'll end up using that from the battery to inverter and read the manual to find out what size breaker I need. Have to be careful on reviews, lots of shills for and against the products. I read the middle of the road reviews as they tend to be the most honest. Most inverters can be traced back to being Chinese imports, they may work, but they are often way over rated. One should never buy solely on reviews or low pricing, there is a reason why there are inverters that cost much more than $500 and yet deliver much less wattage than what you have bought. Fr charging low wattage items like cell phones and laptops, I would suggest a completely different route. For cellphones, tablets and any other device that use USB 5V charging cables, go with 12V to 5V USB chargers. The ones that plug into a 12V cig/power port in your car.. Much more direct, much less idle current draw than a inverter. Looks like this.. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61CNMfj+7vS._AC_SL1500_.jpg height=300 width=400 You can add in your own 12V power ports in your RV by buying cig lighter/power ports.. Like this.. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71rGnmXVCTL._AC_SL1500_.jpg height=300 width=400 You can also buy combo 12V/USB 5V power ports. Like this.. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61y68iPptzL._AC_SL1000_.jpg height=300 width=400 For laptops, you can buy universal 120V/12V power supplies which are designed to plug into 120V AC or 12V DC and use special changeable tips that set the power supply to your laptops needed tip and voltage. Like this.. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61BlOUHEXyL._AC_SL1000_.jpg height=300 width=400 This one is what I bought for my DD to use for her Dell i7 quad core 2 in one PC. Works great on 120V and 12V. Found HERE for $35.. Phones, laptops are so low of a power draw that it doesn't make sense to run them through a 12V to 120V inverter and then from 120V to 5V or 120V to 19V laptop power supplies.. You can run these devices more direct with correct chargers that run from 12V and save a lot of needless wasted energy in the process. Each voltage conversion has a power loss, typically with inveters you looking at as low as 80%-85% conversion efficiency meaning 15%-20% is lost in heat during the conversion depending on the load. 5V USB chargers laptop 12V chargers will have at least 90%-94% conversion efficiency typical of switching power supplies.
Gdetrailer 09/27/21 10:43am Tech Issues
RE: 3500w power inverter

Have not received the unit yet, but I'll read the manual. I usually forget to RTFM This is all self-taught, youtube, forum ideas that I'm building. Thanks for the responses, I am building a system slowly and figured I'd buy a large inverter instead of 2 or 3 inverters as I grow. I have 2 100Ah batteries right now and 200w of solar. Just trying it out to see how it works for us before I spend 10k+. The inverter was reviewed well and only $500 *edit* Just noticed the inverter ships with 2awg wires, hah 2awg wire for 12V side? Yeah, that rings of a cheaply made inverter. Good quality expensive inverters typically do not ship with wire for the 12V side, the good quality inverter manufacturers typically let you select the wire size for your project. 2awg longer than a couple of feet will have too much resistance which translates into too much voltage loss. I am running 1/0 just under 6ft total (neg and positive combined) feeding a Tripplite PV1250 inverter which has the surge capability of 2500W for up to 10 minutes.. The downside of running such a large inverter is the larger you go the higher the no load idle current tends to be which eats into your efficiency and battery capacity.. You can be easily looking at upwards of 2A or 24W of idle current 24/7 (basically 48 Ahr of your battery capacity per day) with no 120V load. Conventional wisdom is to use a couple of lower wattage inverters for low wattage demands. You don't need a 3Kw inverter to run a TV, PC or phone charger.. For TVs, typically a 300W inverter will be fine and that inverter will use 100Ma (.1A)- 200Ma (.2A) at 12V (2.4Ahr-4.8Ahr per 24 hrs) with no 120V load..
Gdetrailer 09/27/21 09:29am Tech Issues
RE: 3500w power inverter

Wire size? Generally you size the breaker or fuse to protect the wire not the device connected to the wire. With that amperage at 12V you will need a pretty large ga of wire and it will need to be very short length to reduce the voltage drop across the wire. Hopefully you are going with 24V or higher input voltage of the inverter to reduce the wire size and amperage that will be drawn.
Gdetrailer 09/27/21 07:29am Tech Issues
RE: mastoid bone hearing aid equalizer ????

You do realize this thread is well over a year old and was brought back from the dead? There are situations that hearing aids do not work or are not tolerated by the wearer. My Dad had to get a hearing aid back in his early 50's, there were times it was helpful to him and then there were times that they just amplified way to much background noise and he just had to turn it off. The best one he had was a simple analog hearing aid that the audiologist prescribed it to be made. The worst one he had was the "digital" version, he never could get it adjusted correctly and went back to wearing his old analog one until it died. After that, he quit wearing a hearing aid. They are expensive and there is zero guarantee that they will work for the wearer, you can keep going back and have adjustments made with newer aids but sometimes it just doesn't work out. There is no substitute for the natural real ear, take good care of your ears, wear hearing protection when around loud noises..
Gdetrailer 09/26/21 10:51am Tech Issues
RE: Predator 3500 vs 2 Champion 2500

The downside to Predator is Harbor Freight really does not "support" their equipment as far as supplying repair parts which can be problematic down the road. Sort of making HF gens border on throw away if you can't figure out how to cross reference parts to the actual manufacturer. Harbor Freight does have a parts list and prices for the predator generator predator 3500 Replacement Parts in Stock Call to Order: 1-800-444-3353 :R Been down that road before, with HF, the parts go away once the item has been discontinued and no longer in production. Had to scrap a cool little 5yr old 2 cycle HF 350W gen many yrs ago that someone gave my Dad.. Was cool and worked well until the ignition module failed, no replacements, could not identify manufacturer of engine. No luck finding a generic module since the ignition module also had a connection to the tiny inverter module.. HF is not like good old "Sears and Roebuck" that kept parts for 50+ yrs after it was discontinued.. But, hey, good luck..
Gdetrailer 09/23/21 07:30pm Travel Trailers
RE: Progressive Dynamics Wizard Pendant

I just got off the phone with BestCoverter and their theory is there can be no load on the system for 30 to 40 hours like a light and maybe even a parasitic load like 4 watts for the Wizard to go into storage mode. I guess Will see over time it it ever reaches storage mode. Which is exactly what I told you. Remove the fuses for the "parasitic" (AKA phantom) loads and wait two days. Then see what has happened. Storage means storage of the entire RV and it is possible that the phantom loads you are measuring and the fact that your batteries most likely are not fully charged (topped off) because you are relying on a measuring device what you arbitrarily must setup the "100%charge" setting. You can verify the state of charge on FLAs by checking the specific gravity of the electrolyte and then adjust/reset your charge monitor in order to synchronize your battery charge monitor to the reality of where the batteries are charge wise. It can take days if not weeks to get the last 1% of the charge into the batteries to top them off..
Gdetrailer 09/23/21 11:39am Tech Issues
RE: Progressive Dynamics Wizard Pendant

I just checked the battery monitor and it said the batteries were at 100% they were receiving a .53 of a amp charge at 13.6 volts with a 6 watt load. At the same time the Wizard Pendant was flashing in Normal mode. It's been about 35 hours since I installed the converter and the trailer has been plugged into shore power during that time. 13.6V at .53A is 7.2W, 6W is going to your "load" and 1.2W is going to your batteries which covers self discharge. That 6W load may be enough to prevent the Charge Wizard from dropping to storage mode (13.2V). I would suggest removing all loads then try again. 6W load may be "phantom" loads from the stereo memory, fridge control board, water heater control board (DSI), propane detector and if equipped propane shut of solenoid controlled by propane detector. My RV has no stereo, no fridge with electronic control board and has a manual pilot light water heater.. My PD pendant has no issue dropping to storage mode and the pair of 6V GC batteries use less than 20 oz of water per yr..
Gdetrailer 09/23/21 07:32am Tech Issues
RE: GFI keeps tripping

My guess is that you hooked the line wires to the load screws. Different brands have different configurations. You need to read the labels ON THAT OUTLET. Correct. Should have terminals label marked LINE and LOAD. LINE is incoming power from breaker box. LOAD is outgoing power from the GFCI to outlets protected by the GFCI (downstream outlets). Make sure you have correctly identified the terminals, GFCIs with screw terminals the brass colored screws are your HOT (Black wires). Silver screws are your Neutral (White wires). Important! Do not mix LINE OR LOAD HOT or Neutral connections. And as someone else mentioned, GFCIs are typically shipped in tripped mode. You will have to press the reset button in order to get power to the outlet and downstream protected outlets.
Gdetrailer 09/22/21 08:35pm Tech Issues
RE: GFI keeps tripping

There's nothing wrong with having a standard 20A GFCI on a 15A circuit (provided the socket itself on the GFCI is a 15A socket, and not a 15/20A combo with a T-shaped slot). The 20A rating is just a maximum. On the other hand, having a 15A GFCI on a 20A circuit is not right. I have never seen a true 15A only through GFCI (15A face and 15A downstream). What I have seen is 15A face with 20A downstream GFCIs which is 100% correct and can be used on a circuit protected with a 20A or a 15A breaker. Outlets with 15A faces are allowed in circuits protected by 20A breaker provided there is more than one duplex outlet. See Difference between 15A and 20 GFCI " Beside this, what is the difference between 15a and 20a GFCI? By making GFCIs 20A internally but 15A on their face, it allows you to use the same GFCI on both 15A and 20A circuits. If the receptacle had the T-neutral, that would mean it could not be used on 15A circuits. NEC 210.24 allows you to put a 15A receptacle on a 20A circuit if it has 2 or more outlets on a circuit. Also, what is the difference between 15a and 20a? 15a and 20a receptacles have different pin configurations. A 20a receptacle will have one slot that is turned sideways or T shaped to allow a 20amp plug to be used. A 15amp receptacle on a 20 amp circuit will not overload the circuit. You will only be allowed to plug in 15a devices. People also ask, can you use a 15a GFCI outlet on a 20a circuit? A 15 amp GFCI receptacle may be supplied power from a 20 amp circuit. Other that gratuitously degrading the performance of the circuit if only one 15 amp receptacle is used in the circuit, there is no reason why it cannot be done. In fact, most receptacles come in pairs with a potential of up to 30 amps."
Gdetrailer 09/22/21 04:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Predator 3500 vs 2 Champion 2500

Both should be OK choices. I recently was able to compare a Predator 3500 to a Open frame Honda 7KW gen at a car cruise (vendors typically have to use generators to power their food trailers), hands down the Predator was quieter. I can say the Predator is quieter than my older open frame 4Kw gen which has a Chinese Honda clone engine. The downside to Predator is Harbor Freight really does not "support" their equipment as far as supplying repair parts which can be problematic down the road. Sort of making HF gens border on throw away if you can't figure out how to cross reference parts to the actual manufacturer. That is where Champion has got a good reputation for after the sales support and service.. I am not against HF, in fact I do own a 8Kw Predator gen that I use to power my home during power outages. I balanced the need for a big gen with a price I could live with, would have cost me 2-3 times the price of the HF gen to get into a Honda in this wattage level. One suggestion for either of your choices, replace the spark plug right out of the box. Most of the cheaper gens like these are equipped with "Torch" brand plugs, they don't last and from my experiences engines with Torch plugs don't start as easy.. Replace with a normal name brand and life will be a bit better.
Gdetrailer 09/22/21 12:45pm Travel Trailers
RE: Kohler 5CKM21 no compression in both cylinders

Some good information here. My Kohler is 25 years old, only 420 hrs on it. It is a flat head engine( no over head valves) and if you look at the web site you posted the crank shaft or cam shaft with gears are obsolete, so if that is the issue I am out of luck. I am still hoping that if both valves sticking(which is confusing to me) that soaking head with Chemtool will loosen them. The oil pump relief valve is something I had not even considered, but that would make sense if oil is not getting to the hyd lifters then I guess both intake and exhaust would stay closed and if both stay closed the no air comes into cylinder so no compression takes place. I still have a call into the Kohler rep, he has not been much help but if I ask a specific question he will research it for me. So I can aske about how to check this valve. Yeah, looked like a lot of Kohlers parts are obsolete but, there may be some parts available through aftermarket brands like Stens. Flat head does make some difference, no rockers, more a direct drive from cam to valve which simplifies things a bit but also still has the possibility of valve/lifter issue. Doesn't take much valve hang to stop building compression.
Gdetrailer 09/20/21 12:38pm Tech Issues
RE: Question on 5th wheel brakes

............. Jack one of the tires up and pull your breakaway pin and then try to rotate the tire by hand. When the brakes are correctly adjusted the brakes will grab and stop the wheel from turning within less than one inch of wheel turn. Once brakes have engaged, there is almost no movement either direction until you put the switch pin back in. I always test my breakaway system each time I hitch, just makes good sense to know your system is working before moving. If not working, then it is time to troubleshoot and repair before moving trailer. I do the same at the start of each season to make sure each individual brake is working. And my wheels barely turn before locking up. Measuring current does not prove the brake is actually engaging. I should note, to be clear, I don't jack up the tires and test that way each time I hook up, that is once a season. Jacking up the tires one at a time is what I do at the beginning of camping season. My state has a required annual safety inspection, I would rather have things not work at my home so I can fix it before driving a half hr each way to the inspection station. I do however, pull the breakaway then pull forward slightly to make sure the breakaway is functioning as part of my hookup for each time I tow. This ensures the brakes and breakaway system on the trailer are functioning. Then once ready to leave, I will use the manual control to verify that the entire trailer brake system chain is working before I pull on to the road.
Gdetrailer 09/20/21 12:20pm Tech Issues
RE: Question on 5th wheel brakes

Truthfully. the trailer brakes should engage as soon as you pull the lever. That's actually not how they work. - For trailer drum brakes, once the magnet is energized, the tire needs to roll a bit before the brakes actually engage. Going down the road at 60mph, it's a tiny fraction of a second. It's beyond the ability of the average human to detect the lag. Backing at 1mph, it's not instantaneous and as the driver, you can recognize it. - Brake controllers are designed primarily around road driving conditions. They don't want to lock up the trailer brakes at the first light tap of the brake pedal during high speed maneuvers. But at 5mph, the truck brakes are typically sufficient to stop even fairly large trailers, so it's not critical to design them for maneuvering in a campground. But as others have said, if you chock the wheels, it's a non-issue for the OP's question. Part of my procedure when pulling out of storage is to manually activate my trailer brakes when I am slowly rolling to test them. And those brakes almost immediately activate and yank back on the trailer. That is with my F350. May work differently on other trucks and trailers. Never tried them manually in reverse. As BB_TX states, trailer drum brakes work almost immediately, if I was to guess I would say within 1" of movement. Jack one of the tires up and pull your breakaway pin and then try to rotate the tire by hand. When the brakes are correctly adjusted the brakes will grab and stop the wheel from turning within less than one inch of wheel turn. Once brakes have engaged, there is almost no movement either direction until you put the switch pin back in. I always test my breakaway system each time I hitch, just makes good sense to know your system is working before moving. If not working, then it is time to troubleshoot and repair before moving trailer.
Gdetrailer 09/20/21 08:58am Tech Issues
RE: Question on 5th wheel brakes

Truthfully. the trailer brakes should engage as soon as you pull the lever. Operative word here is "should". Often with IBC controllers, the manufacturers actually reduce the braking output at slow speed even with the "manual" control lever. This may result in much less braking power than normal when using the manual lever. However, the OP is using the trailer brakes to help assist disconnecting without wheel chocks and as pointed out by someone else, one should always chock the wheels before ever attempting to disconnect trailer from vehicle. Granted the OP is dealing with a 5th wheel which means at least 20%-25% of the weight is on the front legs which would present a bit less potential of the trailer moving.. But that is a very risky and sketchy move regardless. Not sure why folks do this, chock the wheels first, then disconnect, much safer and the life you save may be you or your family..
Gdetrailer 09/19/21 07:36pm Tech Issues
RE: Question on 5th wheel brakes

I do not believe that drum brakes have much stopping action in reverse do to the design. And as mentioned, traveling a few feet wouldn't engage them much.Disc brakes could be stronger. That may have been the case back in the 1960s and you have a dirt cheap inertial controller but drum brakes from the ones I have used from the 1980s up certainly work equally well in reverse. If OP has not recently checked and adjusted their drum brakes a good chance that they need adjusted. They do wear down and/or wear out and most are not "self adjusting" so in reality one should physically pull each drum, adjust/inspect once a yr (12 months) or every 12,000 miles whichever comes first per most axle manufacturers recommendations. Very few RV'rs ever bother with this maintenance.
Gdetrailer 09/19/21 06:04pm Tech Issues
RE: Kohler 5CKM21 no compression in both cylinders

IF the cylinders built up compression with the spark plug feed, nothing coming out intake or exhause or crankcase vent or (if water cooled) radiator... I"m stumped You need 3 things to varroom Fuel and air mixed in the proper portion (Explosive mix) Compression (Appears you got that) Spark. (Gasoline engines) Heat (Diesel) Missed a big item, "timing". Everything must be done in the correct sequence one right after the other. All it takes is timing to jump or valves to hang open slightly and it is all over. Timing seems to be gear to gear, so no chain or belt, but there is a possibility that there could be a plastic or nylon gear in the mix.. Kohler isn't what it used to be and somewhere in the past I have read about a lot complaints of issues with many modern twin cylinder Kohler engines having valve related failures. If I remember correctly the valve guides moving out of place or valve seats causing the valves to not seal. Basically I doubt the issue is fixable from the outside and will need some sort of teardown to assess the condition. A bit more research, found some items for the OP to check.. https://www.lawnsite.com/threads/help-kohler-25-died-turns-over-but-no-compression.359856 Sorry, I was going to hot link but the forum doesn't like the URL above due to the formatting :M From that website.. " Help! Kohler 25 died, turns over but no compression Any ideas where to start looking for problem? Symptoms are like a broken timing chain would cause...just died suddenly, spins over freely with the starter, but acts like no compression (resistance). Happened late yesterday, so I haven't had a chance to investigate it yet. Any help greatly appreciated! Here is what was wrong with mine. Engine ran fine. Shut it off and it wouldn't start again. Checked compression and there was none. Took the valve cover off and when turning the flywheel around by hand that one of the valves was returning very slowly. Sprayed some penetrating oil on the valve stem and turned the engine over and I had compression. Put the plug back in and it started right up again." Very good chance the valve guides are gummed up and not closing quick enough.. Another which was mentioned in the link above, if you have a pressurized oil system seems Kohler in many of these engines may be using hydraulic lifters with the oil pump to create a compression release. Issues with the oil pump relief valve may not allow the lifters to release correctly to running position. Not sure how you test for that.. A broken crank gear was mentioned if the rocker arms are not moving which would mean replacement crank and cam shaft.. Need to at least pull the valve covers and see if the rockers/valves are moving correctly..
Gdetrailer 09/19/21 01:34pm Tech Issues
RE: Portable Wind Turbine as a power supplement?

oops, noticed the OP posted this back a yr ago, nothing like bringing a thread back from the dead..
Gdetrailer 09/19/21 01:18pm Tech Issues
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