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RE: Jacking For Tire Change

Actually it has a swivel saddle with a "scissored" lift arm and doesn't roll. Or, if it did I didn't notice enough to matter. I have actually used this jack twice without issue, so I'm not speaking hypothetically about its effectiveness. Once in a parking lot (on my car hauler) and once in sand (on my camper) at the CG. The 1x6 worked like a charm with the jack in the sand. I don't know how I lived to tell about it. Thin board UNDER the floor or trolley jack just like you SHOULD use under ANY jack solves your objection. Was taught many yrs ago to never use any jack directly on ground as that ground can give way unevenly resulting in the jack tipping over. Something else to consider, with a floor or trolley jack, the arc is small, maybe 1/4" inch in total travel for the entire lift. The vehicle also moves with that arc, your assuming the vehicle stays put and never moves which is not true. Trailers and vehicles are on wheels, the brakes, drive line have slop in them which allows the vehicle to move back and forth. I don't know where you guys get the magic floor jacks that don't move. Just for snots and grins I just put a tape on 1 of mine (standard 7000 lb capacity that I load if I know I'm going to need a jack, or grab if I need to lift a car in the drive) I put the wheels against the wall and measured to center of pad. 5 inches. Jacked to top, 13 inches. Junking cars around others junking cars, I have seen more than 1 slip off the jack because the little steel wheels would not roll on soft wood, or because the jack rolled off the end of the board. I have been using a 3.5 ton floor jack for well over 30 yrs on a concrete floor to lift my pickup trucks. I have not once ever seen the wheels on that jack or trucks move even 1mm.. That floor jack I have also has a contact point which looks like a castle and is 5" in diameter. Never had it offer to slide on that contact point either. I think you have a piece of junk floor jack if it moves that much distance, you need better floor jacks. Not ALL floor jacks have a large arc swing, junky cheapos and 50 yr old ones perhaps but not all. On edit.. I do want to add that I figure that you are considering that one would have to use the FULL lift height of a floor jack.. You are also wrong on that assumption. So, for the heck of it, I measured my floor jack. At lowest part of the range, it is six inches tall, I put the jack against a wall and measured the contact plate edge as 3.5". That jack just fits under my trailer axle at 6" with fully inflated tire. If you jack directly under the axle you would only need to lift the tire about 1". Now if you had a flat, my tire sidewalls are about 6". Basically to change a tire you only need the jack to lift 6". I measured my jack at 12" (6" min height + 6" lift). The result? the contact plate was now 3 5/8".. The difference, 1/8".. The reality is very few people will ever need to use the entire lift of a floor jack to change a trailer tire. Basically only using a small fraction of the arc and that fraction is statistically insignificant. Now my floor jack tops at 18" lift and at that top the plate moves back about 2".. At that height would be stupid to consider to be usable. But one could say the exact same for using any jack once you get past a couple of inches worth of lift, they all get unstable. Bottle jacks, scissor jacks since they have very small base foot prints get scary unstable the higher amount of lift you go. Floor jacks and even smaller cousin the trolley jack both have a large base foot print over a much greater area making them by far more stable and less likely to tip over provided you only use the absolute minimum lift needed. If one ever needed full lift height offered by a floor jack, one might wish to rethink the approach which reduces the amount of lift required.. I am not a fan of placing boards or ramps under one tire to change the other nor the other gadgets that you must drive up on.. You have to lift the good tire very high in order to lift the blown tire high enough to get the new tire on.. Do that on the shoulder of the road (which isn't flat) on the high side and you risk toppling the trailer over..
Gdetrailer 08/05/22 01:56pm Travel Trailers
RE: Jacking For Tire Change

This exact jack would not get under a flat tire on my trailer, at least not under the spring perch. I carry a small floor jack with a 1x6 if needed. Do you also carry the important part needed to safely use that jack? By that I mean a floor. With no load on it, run the jack up. Notice the lift pad goes up in a arc? Normal lifting, the pad stays in contact with lifting point be cause the jack rolls under the load. If the wheels are setting on soft or rough surface the pad must slide on you lift point. At least you're not under when it drops. Thin board UNDER the floor or trolley jack just like you SHOULD use under ANY jack solves your objection. Was taught many yrs ago to never use any jack directly on ground as that ground can give way unevenly resulting in the jack tipping over. Something else to consider, with a floor or trolley jack, the arc is small, maybe 1/4" inch in total travel for the entire lift. The vehicle also moves with that arc, your assuming the vehicle stays put and never moves which is not true. Trailers and vehicles are on wheels, the brakes, drive line have slop in them which allows the vehicle to move back and forth.
Gdetrailer 08/05/22 10:19am Travel Trailers
RE: Barbecue hookup

OP indicated they have a grill that uses this.. I know, and that's why I splained the problems for any DIYers. FWIW, the orifice usually comes off and a DIYer can play. I've been gas appliance certified since 78 and I've tried all sorts of things. Sometimes I get my kicks in funny ways! The several I have encountered, the orifice was pressed into the regulator output tube. The regulator output tube was molded into the regulator body. the regulator on one I had was friction fit to the burner and the other the orifice which was pressed into the regulator had threads and threaded into the burner. Absolutely no way shape or form you are going to remove the orifice without some collateral damage happening to that orifice for either I have had. After having several of those cheap BBQs that ended up with the non replaceable burners rusting out I stepped up to better built BBQs which have better burners and separate controls from the regulator.. Those burner control/regulator deals tend to poorly regulate the flames on the burner, typically resulting in burnt offerings on the outside with totally raw meat on the inside. Any grill that uses the combo control/regulator is cheaply built junk, scrap it and move on. The BBQ I listed a while ago for $130 is leaps and bounds a far better design control wise and burner wise. The one I have looks similar to the one I linked. But I bought mine at Sam's club yrs ago for $90. The only complaint I have so far with mine is the grill grates are not 100% stainless, it is some stainless plating on steel and rusts out easily. I found aftermarket porcelain coated cast iron grates that were a bit bigger and I cut them down to fit..
Gdetrailer 08/04/22 02:38pm Tech Issues
RE: Barbecue hookup

pressure. You can remove the regulator on your grill and connect to the Rv 11” system but then you still need to control the flow/heat . Then you can try a needle valve and it still might not work. Craig OP indicated they have a grill that uses this.. Which is a "combo" high pressure regulator, burner control and propane orifice.. Unless you have a well equipped machine shop at your disposal and lots of time on your hands attempting to fabricate some sort of work around is a futile effort and not worth it, not to mention dangerous, and perhaps with a bit fool hardy heaped onto the end when the experiment goes boom. Some things are best left to the pros. For $130 the OP can buy a portable grill which has built in burner controls which means they only need to replace the hose with regulator with a hose that connects to their RV port.
Gdetrailer 08/03/22 08:04pm Tech Issues
RE: Barbecue hookup

I suspect most folks "interchange" BBQ and grill as one in the same device, you get heat and food cooks on it. You can make a "grill" slow cook for things like pulled pork by turning flame down and not placing food directly over the burner (IE Indirect heat). You can even turn a gas grill into a "smoker" just by adding a smoking box which uses wood chips or a smoking tube which uses smoking pellets. You can even use a griddle top on a grill or BBQ.. It is a pretty universal device.. Extend a stays were interesting devices and if OP could find one they still will not be able to use the built in propane port and would have to use the BBQ at the trailer tongue.. Personally, they could simply buy a refillable 5 lb cylinder and call it a day also.
Gdetrailer 08/03/22 04:32pm Tech Issues
RE: Jacking For Tire Change

Who are these “experts” you refer to? Perhaps from the "horses mouth", the axle manufacturers? See page 40 HERE Although I suspect Dexters take is out of concern with the fact that axles can be over slung or under slung and/or not many flat places to safely use a jack without the potential for it to slip or pop out from under the suspension components.. I am sure that somewhere along the lines folks most likely have used the axle tube and damaged it..
Gdetrailer 08/03/22 04:09pm Travel Trailers
RE: Barbecue hookup

Okay I think I have it I need to get a different barbecue that will hook into the low pressure line this barbecue has the high to low regulator and also the temperature adjustment on top of it so I don't believe I'll be able to use this on the camper low pressure line thank you very much Oops, I missed that in my last post.. Correct, no way of removing or bypassing the combination regulator with burner valve :S Personally, I am more of a Charcoal and wood fan and prefer that over the gas.. I made removable charcoal pans for my BBQs so when I am not in a hurry I can use Charcoal mixed with some Maple or Oak.. If in a hurry I can remove the pan and light up the propane.. But yes, you will need to find a BBQ that has burner controls separate from the regulator.. Something like this.. height=300 width=400 Found At Amazon for $129..
Gdetrailer 08/03/22 01:29pm Tech Issues
RE: Barbecue hookup

Okay I think I have it I need to get a different barbecue that will hook into the low pressure line this barbecue has the high to low regulator and also the temperature adjustment on top of it so I don't believe I'll be able to use this on the camper low pressure line thank you very much As long as you are using the RVs regulated propane line, there is no need for an additional regulator at the BBQ. The BBQ and RV regulator should have nearly identical output pressure. Some BBQs the regulator is removable from the hose, some not. Here is a pix of my home BBQ which is not removable from the hose. In my case, I would have to follow the hose from the regulator to where the hose connects.. Which is at the valve manifold on the BBQ.. Unscrew the hose connection and remove the BBQ hose and regulator and install new hose with quick disconnect for the RV propane line. Note, you cannot connect the BBQ directly to any high pressure propane source using the hose without the regulator!!! Initial test, I would make sure you have the BBQ not mounted to the RV and a bit of distance just in case things goes sideways. Might want to use a match on a long match holder or a lighter with long reach for the first light to keep hands, arms and face at a safer distance.. On edit.. Forgot to mention, if you are one of the lucky ones to have a regulator with the burner flame adjustment and shut off, you are out of luck.. You would not have any way to turn off the gas nor control the burner output. That is one of the reasons I mentioned posting a pix with make and model of your BBQ..
Gdetrailer 08/03/22 01:03pm Tech Issues
RE: Barbecue hookup

Its more complicated than just buying a hose and hooking up to it. Perhaps post the brand and model of BBQ plus if it is one that came with RV or one you had laying around.. Pictures would be most helpful for folks to identify potential issues. The hose you bought, did it have a quick disconnect coupler? Or did you buy a generic air (ones you would use for air compressors and air tools) quick disconnect coupler? Reason I as is a propane disconnect may look like an air coupler, but it is not 100% compatible with propane coupler. There are differences between the two and the air coupler may not seat correctly either not opening the safety valve or a potential leak. Now, generically, if you have a "aftermarket" BBQ that didn't come with the RV and that BBQ is designed to hook up to a 20 lb or 1 lb cylinder there are some complications you will run into. Number 1 complication is the BBQ designed for 1 lb and 20 lb cylinders will already have a high pressure to low pressure regulator. Generally what some folks have done is remove the regulator on the BBQ but this doesn't always work 100% on all BBQs. Your RV propane lines will already have a high pressure to low pressure regulator at the cylinders. Low pressure propane is required by the gas appliances on board. In this case, feeding low pressure into a high pressure regulator results in the BBQ not getting enough or any propane. You need to know if the coupler on the RV supplies high pressure propane or low pressure propane.. Generally though a fair chance the line you are connecting to is already regulated to low pressure but you may wish to trace the line back to the cylinders where the regulator is to be sure.
Gdetrailer 08/03/22 11:39am Tech Issues
RE: Good enclosed cig lighter socket?

Not unusual for cig lighter plugs to back out all by themselves. For mission critical devices like a fridge, add some wire ties to the mix. Cheap, easy and reversible. If you dig around you can even find reusable wire ties, they have a way to release the tie without the need to cut them off. I think you're onto something with wire ties. The way the male plug is made, spring at the tip is pushing it out. Takes very little - less than 1/8" pullback - to lose contact. Will zip-tie it and order Anderson connectors. Correct! The are varying levels of quality on the cig plugs also, unless it is a high amperage draw (8A-10A) manufacturers tend to use the cheaper plugs which have very weak grounding springs which often do not have enough tension to keep plug in the socket. The problem isn't with the socket, but the plug. Someone also mentioned a cig lighter socket with a screw retainer, great idea, except for the fact that to use the retainer one must change both plug and socket. The is good arguments for cig or Andersons. If you might want to use your device in any vehicle then cig plug is ubiquitously universal. Andersons, not so much. You can of coarse, make an Anderson to cig adapter just in case you run into the need to use in another vehicle. A Ham friend of mine yrs ago converted all of his Ham equipment to Andersons, looked great and performed well.. But as he soon found out not everyone was using them so changing or swapping equipment soon became a hassle.. For my Ham shack I stuck with the stock terminations which used low cost but effective binding posts with the stock cables that came with the radios and in vehicle use I use the stock cable (which has a built in plug/socket for that manufacturer) and crimp and solder the wire to my power source wire I installed, bypassing cig lighters altogether.. If you have no plans to move the device, then why not just wire it direct? As someone mentioned, cig plugs will typically have a fuse under the tip (not all cig plugs have that though) so making sure you fuse the device is always a good idea. At the same time, you could add a shut off switch (with a protective cover to prevent accidental turn offs) to the mix to fully power down the device when not in use.
Gdetrailer 08/03/22 08:13am Tech Issues
RE: Assessing RV Value

"Talking about stickers and MSRPs when it comes to the RV Industry is mental masturbation. " Only to the misinformed. :B :B. Enlighten me......where are you getting the accurate MSRP/Sticker numbers from when it comes to RV's? Must be only one person that isn't "misinformed"? Per HERE "Most RV brands sell through a dealership network. The RV manufacturer-dealer relationship is quite complicated. Dealerships must be approved by the manufacturer. Bob’s Bargain RV Dealership, for instance, can’t just arbitrarily order Rough n’ Ready RVs from a catalog. Rough n’ Ready, the RV manufacturer, has to approve Bob’s Bargain’s dealership application. If the manufacturer accepts too many applications, it won’t be able to fulfill orders. Too few dealers, however, and the brand will struggle to gain market share. The manufacturer may insist a dealership blacklist “Competitor X;” they don’t want to be sold alongside their competition! Money is governed by floor plan financing, usually offered by big 3rd party financial institutions. Contracts vary, but usually dealers have a certain amount of time to sell an RV before interest on their credit loan kicks in. Dealerships commonly mark up an RV by 30-50% over invoice cost as “MSRP.” Then, they’ll throw on “discounts” so the final sale price is 20-40% over invoice, somewhere around the Fair Market Value. Dealerships are responsible for warranty service, inspections and walk-throughs, but warranty claims must be pre-approved by the manufacturer. This can create long customer service delays when the two disagree! The relationship can be tenuous and tense, at times. But it allows both parties to focus on what they’re best at: Sourcing and manufacturing vs. Sales and service. Also, because RVs and campers are considered Motor Vehicles under U.S. law, there’s Big Government and bureaucracy to contend with. Many states require that commercial sellers of motor vehicles be licensed as motor vehicle dealerships. This means bonding insurance, permanent office space, customer parking, commercial zoning, FBI fingerprints, etc. These are things many RV manufacturers don’t have (or don’t want to mess around with)." Note the section I put into bold.. From that I take it that there is no "window sticker with factory MSRP on it and while the manufacturer may have some sort of MSRP in mind on the dealers invoice paperwork, the dealer may be able to come up with their own MSRP and sale price as long as it does not breach the manufacturers terms of their manufacturer/dealer agreement. Now KD may be talking MOTORIZED RVs (IE Motor Homes) and that may be vastly different from non motorized (trailers) as now you are hopping into the world of auto sales with a different set of rules. Every dealership and even RV show I have ever gone to, I have never seen a factory window sticker posted on any trailer.. They all have been either sloppy handwritten sales splash format or some quickly typed non descript looking generic sheet of paper..
Gdetrailer 08/02/22 02:16pm Travel Trailers
RE: Cleaning the awning

Magic eraser mop heads worked well for us to clean the awning Yup, this is what I have found to be the easiest - - Magic eraser head Just be aware that just because Magic Erasers feel and act like a soft foam, they ARE an abrasive! Granted, a mild abrasive, but still can damage surfaces and material. Use with caution and care. One should note that A&E does mention to not use abrasives.. All about Magic Eraser HERE "Melamine foam is a porous material, which acts something like very fine sandpaper to gently remove stains. Though it feels soft on the outside, each eraser is actually uniquely abrasive and uses small air pockets in the material to lift stains when damp. Areas to Avoid Avoid using a Magic Eraser on polished, delicate, or easily scratched surfaces because it may end up removing the exterior finish or causing potential damage to the outer surface. Try a test patch on a less noticeable area before going to town on a larger spot. Although versatile, you should steer clear of your car, stainless steel, glossy walls and wood, among other surfaces, when using your Magic Eraser."
Gdetrailer 08/02/22 08:46am Tech Issues
RE: Proper outside storage

Do one better bypass the tank altogether. Buy a garden hose bib valve like for on the side of a building, install the hose bib right through a wall to the outside. Sure but I suggested including the tank as the OP indicated, he didn't have an existing route for the hose and didn't want to cut holes in the wall. :R Yes, OP indicated they didn't "want" to, but, in reality all other methods are a feeble attempt to get around the direct route and those work arounds all have potential pitfalls. In my neck of the woods, I would not want to have water draining into any of my tanks which can be easily forgotten or missed when it comes time to winterize. OP can buy a hose bib that looks like this.. height=300 width=300 or this.. height=300 width=300 Which has a mounting flange on the outside, one can easily drill a half inch hole, and run the pipe through the wall and use some acrylic latex caulking to seal the flange.. Alternately, one can drill through the floor and mount the same hose bib on the underside of the trailer and no harm to the trailer wall. This is the same basic principle of the water lines low drain points which also go through the floor and drain the water out of the lines for winter. Through the floor drain could be left or removed and if removed a simple gob of caulking plugs the hole and no harm or fault to the side walls. Going through the floor, they could just run a piece of flexible plastic pipe through the floor and to the dehumidifier. If you have ever run a dehumidifier for any substantial length of time, you would understand why running the condensate through your RV plumbing is not a good idea.. Every single dehumidifier I have ever had gets a slimy stringy build up in the condensate.. Makes a mess, builds up until you have a plugged line somewhere or the drain internally in the dehumdifier. Would not want to have that slime build up in a holding tank. When that slime dries out, it hardens like a rock. I have had a few dehumidifiers with built in pumps (not because I wanted it but because that was all that was available), the pumps are a failure point, they too fall victim to that slime and get gummmed up.. Those have cleaning routines that require you to clean the pump .. My recommendation is to try opening the windows and let nature work it out. For my basement, not an option, opening the door and a few windows it has would just bring in outside moist air which then condenses on the cooler basement walls.. Dehumidifiers have their place in life (like a cool basement in the summer), not so much in a RV though, but if it makes you feel happy to run one, have at it.
Gdetrailer 08/01/22 01:07pm Travel Trailers
RE: Brakes Broken On The Road

No accidents, no world ending crash, no one killed or maimed, no ambulance chasing lawyers chasing me down. Getting away with something and it being a good idea are different things. Do you go 1 MPH over the speed limit? That is also not a good idea and I suspect that you and pretty much everyone else reading this forum (including myself)has been guilty of at least one time doing that in your, theirs and my lifetime. Every day you are able to wake up ABOVE the ground, you are "cheating" death or "getting one over death" each time. There was also a time where vehicles had no seat belts, no air bags, no ABS, no blackbox nanny to tattle tell on you if you went 1 MPH over the speed limit.. heck as a kid, I rode on my parents lap in vehicles which had all steel dashes and yes, lived to tell the tale of it. One trailer brake down out of four does not constitute an emergency, it does mean one needs to adjust/adapt their driving style to the situation and drive more cautious. The vehicles brakes unless you are severely way overloaded to start with are sufficient to handle the vehicle weight plus some of the weight of the trailer.. You simply will not be able to stop as fast and it will take longer distance to stop.. Keeping the towing speed LOW (IE under the speed limit) reduces the stopping distance even with partially impaired trailer brakes. There ARE times where making repairs to full brakes is not safe or possible. OP has a real oddball and would need to find a trailer dealer that deals with Lippert 4,400 lb axles.. Most trailer shops deal with Dexter or the more popular Lippert 3,500 or Lippert 5,000 lb axles and will have those parts in stock.. That 4,400 lb axle is a pretty specific need and OP most likely will need to order and wait on the parts. My case, it wasn't safe to pull off on the side of a highway on the berm with vehicles zooming past at 70MPH-80MPH till I figured out if it was wiring or failed part inside the drum.. People routinely get KILLED changing tires on the side of the road daily.. No brakes at all on the trailer would be entirely different conversation and is not the case of the OPs situation.
Gdetrailer 08/01/22 10:58am Tech Issues
RE: Brakes Broken On The Road

Looks like you have a real oddball. From what I have been reading 4400 lb Lippert axle parts do not and will not interchange with 3,500 lb axle parts and parts for Dexter will not work either. Found some Lippert backing plates HERE at Amazon. Sadly that is a complete kit with drums making it a very expensive repair. You can check with Southwest Wheel (the vendor in the Amazon link) to see if they have just the backing plates. Another source is Etrailer, but all I could find was self adjusting backing plates for $400.. No matter where you buy them, it is very good practice to replace both sides of the same axle. This keeps your braking much more even. As far as running without parts on the bad backing plate goes, it is your choice and your business. Way too many over the toppers here.. I have had several times a wire to a magnet break during a trip and was not able to pull off the road and troubleshoot.. Felt the trailer tug to the side which still had two brakes working. No accidents, no world ending crash, no one killed or maimed, no ambulance chasing lawyers chasing me down. If you proceed, you most likely will feel the trailer pull or tug to the side which has two brakes working if you have your brakes setup well. So basically be prepared for that odd feel on the steering wheel and try not to over compensate which could create a bob and weave situation each time the brakes are applied and released.. The biggest hazard with only three brakes in operation is if you must make emergency maneuvers which may require stomping on the brakes at high speed then releasing them fast can pull you off the road or across the road into oncoming traffic. For the above reason, it can make sense to disable the brake on the opposite side on the same axle. Since you would only have half the braking power you will need to take your time, drive a bit slower, anticipate that you will need to stop at every stop light and stop sign well ahead of your normal stopping distance. Leave much more room for the impatient drivers as those are the ones that will ultimately pull a bone head stunt that you might not be able to prevent.
Gdetrailer 08/01/22 09:39am Tech Issues
RE: dexter self-adjusting brakes - starwheel

I should also mention, someone could have also mixed up which side the backing plates went to.. Backing plates should not be interchanged between left side and right side.. One is marked Left and one is marked Right. When you buy them you have to specify left or right if buying one, but always best to change as a pair (left and right) on the same axle to make sure the brakes work evenly between left and right..
Gdetrailer 08/01/22 09:13am Tech Issues
RE: Good enclosed cig lighter socket?

Not unusual for cig lighter plugs to back out all by themselves. For mission critical devices like a fridge, add some wire ties to the mix. Cheap, easy and reversible. If you dig around you can even find reusable wire ties, they have a way to release the tie without the need to cut them off.
Gdetrailer 08/01/22 09:05am Tech Issues
RE: A few more questions about solar panels...

Put a 20 amp load on the battery and test again. X2 Your 2 parallel panels can deliver 5.4A+5.17A = 10.57A at 17.6V (the lower voltage panel). This power loss from the higher voltage panel will not be a factor for a PWM controller as long as your wiring losses do not limit the maximum charge rate the battery will accept, ie the absorb voltage for flooded batteries. :h Hmm, not so sure about that. In parallel the combined voltage will result in a lower voltage than the highest panel voltage rating which does affect PWM output. Some of the voltage (hence some of the wattage) developed is wasted (IE is lost) as heat in the lower voltage panel.. The lower voltage panel due to additional heat may result in a further reduction of harvest. This is the same thing as paralleling old wornout battery(ies) with new batteries.. The old batteries will draw down the voltage of newer batteries until they reach equilibrium in voltage.. Mismatched voltage panels for maximum harvest are better suited to be combined in series and use a MPPT controller. There is a considerable 5.2V difference between the two panels open voltage rating, that is about 11 - 12 cells difference (each individual solar cell in a panel develops about .5V).. My guess is the max harvest might be in the range of 7A-8A at best, not 10.57 as it isn't going to be a linear addition of current. This is why adding isolation diodes might prove beneficial since Schottky diodes only drop .3V and would help maximize the harvest in parallel with mismatched panel voltages with PWM controller. I would agree that if the OPs batteries are already charged and topped off, they will not see more than a couple of amps.. In this case for testing purposes they need to turn on at least a 10A "load" then check the current being harvested from the panels.
Gdetrailer 07/31/22 04:29pm Tech Issues
RE: A few more questions about solar panels...

One has open circuit voltage of 22.60V and the other has open circuit voltage of 20.8V Most likely neither panel has a isolating diode which prevents battery from discharge at night. So, basically the panel with lower open circuit voltage is now drawing power from the panel with the higher voltage until both panels are the the same voltage.. Basically one panel canceling the other panel due to a mismatch in voltage. Ideally paralleling panels without a isolation diode they should be "matched" in voltage.. You can correct that, but that requires adding a isolation diode to output of each panel and then connecting in parallel.. The drawback of diodes is they drop about .7V for standard diodes and .3V for Schottky diodes. Otherwise, you could of coarse you can run a dedicated controller on each panel..
Gdetrailer 07/31/22 01:03pm Tech Issues
RE: Generator Fuel Question

I have a Champion 4500 dual fuel. I have never put gas in it. It is plenty of power for the AC (which is why I have it) I can run 1.5 days or so on 1 20lb propane tank. It is much easier to get and carry propane when camping vs having to bring a gas can that smells and can leak or be messy. Also, propane is much cleaner and I don't have to worry about cleaning the carb which I would if I used regular gas. Which, by the way, all my yard equipment, etc, I only buy ethanol free gas. It's a little more expensive, like buying diesel, but removes many of the carb issues that I had before I started buying ethanol free gas. Ahh, the fabled "Ethanol free" gas :R Not available "everywhere". I looked high and looked low all around a 100 mile radius of my home, zero gas stations offer 100% Ethanol free gas to the public. I have also called the small little tiny airports within that same area to see if they sell 100LL Av gas to the public, they do not, in fact they have that in fenced in areas behind locks and only the airport managers have authority to open the gates and you must have a valid FAA issued tail number. I have checked with my local sprint car racing dirt tracks and the nearby gas stations near those tracks for Ethanol free racing fuel.. They will not sell to the public.. To get that fuel one must have a valid on that race day entry ticket.. The only "Ethanol free" gas I have seen sold is in 1 pint or 1 quart bottles sold for lawn mowing equipment.. The cost, is not "slightly" more expensive, it is astronomically more expensive.. Something on the order of $20-$25 per gallon equivalent.. Yes, I have checked "Gas Buddy", the station near me they claim sells Ethanol free fuel does not have or sell Ethanol free fuel.. The reason I was trying to find Ethanol free gas? I was given a 100+ yr old auto and wasn't sure if the float in the carb was up to the Ethanol.. I initially used Coleman fuel (Naphtha which is a close cousin to modern day gas) to get it started.. After examining the carb float, I was lucky, it was brass.. Have run that engine on 87 octane Ethanol laced gas ever since. Note, please do not use Coleman fuel or Naphtha in any modern small engine, it has a very low octane rating and will predominate easily and destroy higher compression engines. Ethanol has been sold to the public with varying percentages from 1% to 10% Ethanol in it since the 1970s, it just was never labeled as such. Gasohol (the E10 we have today) was introduced in early 1970s during the oil embargo and gas crisis as a way to make the gas we did get would fill more auto tanks, it failed due to the public not wanting to pay the premium price for it (Ethanol production cost more to make than refining gasoline). From 1975 and up all new vehicles were mandated to have advanced emissions which included a Catalytic converter.. With that change all fuel containing Lead was phased out. The function of lead was to add Oxygen and boost octane level.. It became a race between MTBE and Ethanol as the additives.. MTBE was favored until it was realized that the side effect of it was a very harmful to the environment emission of it in the tail pipes that covered the roads and washed off into the watershed.. The current E10 is what we had back in the 1970s which was called Gasohol and was forced to the public via EPA in the 1990s.. Live with it, it isn't going away anytime soon. You might find a slightly lower percentage of Ethanol than 10%, but it won't be zero percent.. Drain the carb when storing and nothing foul will happen to the carb.
Gdetrailer 07/31/22 11:50am Tech Issues
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