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RE: Help with zirk fittings

Ok, so i have the ez lube axels or whatever they are called now. I will use them after i finish my break job. I really dont see how a normal hand pumped grease gun will push out the back seal. Hell, i have a hard enough time trying to pry out the rear seal with a hammer to repack them. The new seal is always tight goung in also. I can see if you re use an old seal, or dont put the seal in correctly that you might blow out the rear seal. But under normal operation. I cant see it happening. Now with that said, i would repack by hand every 5 years or so to check the bearings and races and such. But i plan on using the ez lubes for a few years for annual greasing after its set up. Do you understand that somebody that does not know what they are doing with a hand pump grease gun can tighten the tracks on a D-6 Cat dozer so tight it will not hardly pull up on a trailer? Which is the "conventional wisdom" that my Dad taught me back when I got my first car and he showed and explained step by step on how to repack the bearings.. Big rule was to not pack the hub center full of grease. Just pack grease around all of the bearing surfaces is sufficient.. Has worked well for me for several million miles of driving across multiple cars and trucks. But I get it, not everyone likes to get hands dirty and grabbing a grease gun is very convenient.. Thank you I know nothing of what you speak. Is the cat tracks the same set up as an ez lube axel? If it is i am surprised. While my post had nothing to do with "cat tracks", I can see where that is possible to do given the correct parts are put under enough pressure from a grease gun.. Many folks in the "hit and miss" engine collecting community often resort to using the grease gun method for pushing out badly stuck/frozen/rusted pistons.. HERE is one mention of that.. Also have seen folks using same grease gun method to remove stuck brake caliper pistons for rebuilding the calipers.. HERE Using a grease gun to grease wheel bearings are a quick fix for those that do not want to get their hands dirty, but with quick fixes, it comes at some risk. Failure to follow the directions from the manufacturer will most likely result in grease bypassing the seal. To avoid that you must rotate the wheel while greasing, that means you will need to put a jack under each axle and get it off the ground. Grease on a nice warm to hot day, cold grease does not "flow" well and will be stiff.. That will cause pressure to build up higher than when warm. Then because grease guns can develop a lot of pressure, you must pull the handle slowly. Hard and fast handle movements are where you develop the high pressure. If this is the first time greasing, it may take a lot of grease, the factory does not load them up with grease and it takes a lot of grease to load the center hub chamber. When you see grease pushing out the front bearing you can stop, no need to keep pushing. Be patient, don't be in a hurry. Myself, I have two trailers, one without EZ lube and one with.. I personally do not care for the ez lube axles, my inspection mechanic loaded them one inspection, now when the mechanic (or myself) pulls a drum we are greeted with a excess of greasy gooey mess to clean up. That grease pulls out in a big long greasy ribbon and leaves globs of grease on the axle stub.. I would rather pull and inspect my brakes periodically than worry so much about how much grease the bearings have.. Once you grease them the grease does not evaporate or disappear..
Gdetrailer 04/18/21 08:53pm Travel Trailers
RE: Help with zirk fittings

Think about this, if the hub is packed full of grease using these EZ lube bearing buddy type axles on drum brakes what is going to happen when the axles hub gets hot, the grease is going to expand and the only place has to go is in the brake drums past the seal and contaminate the brake shoes. Which is the "conventional wisdom" that my Dad taught me back when I got my first car and he showed and explained step by step on how to repack the bearings.. Big rule was to not pack the hub center full of grease. Just pack grease around all of the bearing surfaces is sufficient.. Has worked well for me for several million miles of driving across multiple cars and trucks. But I get it, not everyone likes to get hands dirty and grabbing a grease gun is very convenient..
Gdetrailer 04/18/21 02:00pm Travel Trailers
RE: New here. A few questions.

You may think that it would be cheaper to "camp" in a RV instead of hotel/motel.. May not be as cheap as you might think and most likely the campgrounds will be a bit more remote than you would like.. You may run into restrictions on min or max stay and potential of issues with getting reservations for the popular campgrounds. HERE is a search for campgrounds near San Diego..
Gdetrailer 04/18/21 01:38pm Travel Trailers
RE: Help with zirk fittings

Ok, so i have the ez lube axels or whatever they are called now. I will use them after i finish my break job. I really dont see how a normal hand pumped grease gun will push out the back seal. Hell, i have a hard enough time trying to pry out the rear seal with a hammer to repack them. The new seal is always tight goung in also. I can see if you re use an old seal, or dont put the seal in correctly that you might blow out the rear seal. But under normal operation. I cant see it happening. Now with that said, i would repack by hand every 5 years or so to check the bearings and races and such. But i plan on using the ez lubes for a few years for annual greasing after its set up. GREASE GUNS EXPLAINED "A high-pressure manual grease gun is designed to deliver from 2,000 to 15,000 psi. Applying too much pressure while greasing will damage the bearing seals, which rarely handle more than 500 psi." Should be a "no brainer" since even the cheapest of the cheapest grease guns will easily develop more than 500 PSI. Some guns may have an adjustable relief valve but that would require calibration.
Gdetrailer 04/18/21 01:18pm Travel Trailers
RE: 50amp EMS w/surge

BTW The 120/240V 50A is SINGLE PHASE, it's a common misconception that it's 2 phase, etc. Split phase is a reasonable description. :R Connect L1 and L2 together on a proper 120/240 circuit and see what happens.. L1 and L2 are 180 degrees "out of phase" compared to each other and even the neutral and that IS correct. When L1 is going in positive direction L2 is going in a negative direction. When L1 is going negative the L2 is going positive. And there is ZERO "wrong" with what I posted. The problem you have is "semantics". There are 30A to 50A dogbones that only supply L1 with 120V connection and there are 30A to 50A dogbones that will connect both L1 and L2 to the single 120V 30A power source.. As I told the OP, all they can do is try it, if their dogbone does not connect both L1 and L2 together then their EMS will not allow voltage to pass.. However a REAL "EMS" in theory should not allow ANY voltage pass that has the exact same direction waveform on L1 and L2 as that is a violation..
Gdetrailer 04/17/21 02:05pm Travel Trailers
RE: 50amp EMS w/surge

I am going to take a stab that it won't allow power if you are only supplying power to only one of the "legs".. Page 6 of the manual.. HERE "Example: The EMS shuts down power for low voltage on Line-1 and then power is restored. " In a nutshell it is supposed to not allow voltage to pass if it is below 104V.. Guessing that would also mean that BOTH L1 and L2 must have voltage higher than 104V.. Page 5 seems to indicate that both L1 and L2 need voltages higher than 104V.. "NOTE: If the display indicates an error code other than E 0 or E 10, the EMS will not allow power to the RV. " Now if your 30A 120V adapter were to supply voltage to both L1 and L2 then it "might" work but if unit is looking for L2 to be 180 degrees out of phase (the way it should be) then I suspect the unit won't pass voltage on to the trailer.. But, hey, you might get lucky and the EMS doesn't care if L1 and L2 are in phase.. All you can do is try it with the EMS and if it doesn't work just remove it or bypass it?
Gdetrailer 04/17/21 01:40pm Travel Trailers
RE: How to remove tail light from 2020. Rock wood mini lite

LED lights are sealed and the LEDs inside the assembly are not "replaceable". To fix, you must replace the entire fixture. You might wish to do some troubleshooting before replacing the fixture.. Clean all the contacts on the plug from the trailer and the socket on the vehicle, the connections tend to get corroded. You can use some sandpaper rolled up a few layers and flattened out size it to fit in the plug contacts to scrub the contacts shiny. Vehicles often have fuses on stop/turn/running lights, make sure those fuses are good, read your vehicles manual to find out the location of those fuses. Your trailer may also have fuses, if so those may be located near the tongue, follow the tow vehicle to trailer cable to see if you can find a junction and fuse box.. Barring all that, pull the tail lights, move the known working one to the side that isn't working.. If the good tail light works then you know you need to replace the bad one.. If you don't wish to go to the work of troubleshooting you can just throw money at it and buy a new replacement and hope that is the fix to the problem.. If they look like these.. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/813Y9QEKOpL._AC_SL1500_.jpg height=300 width=300 They use a rubber grommet that surrounds the light.. You can pry the light out of the grommet or the grommet out of the RV body.. Although it is possible that if there is caulking around the fixture the caulking may be hiding the screw holes so you will want to remove the caulking ans see what is under it..
Gdetrailer 04/17/21 01:08pm Travel Trailers
RE: Looking for a new trailer

Walk around King or Queen bed? Wanting the bed to stay a bed? Sounds like a "separate" bedroom layout.. Pretty rare in TTs, better chance of finding that in 5th wheels or extremely long TTs (30Ft+).. Yrs ago were were looking for a Queen (not walk around) in a separate bedroom with real wall and door.. Only found that setup in 32ft+ TTs.. Never found any "walk around" Queen beds in TTs. As Huntingdog mentioned, gens in TTs are pretty rare, Toy hauler or 5th wheel might be your choices.. Toy Hauler, you could use the "garage" area and convert that to a Master bedroom with your walkaround King/Queen bed.. Downside to Toyhaulers is that they often have a very heavy tongue weight empty because when you put bikes/quads/golfcart in the garage the tongue would be too light and under 10% TW when loaded. So, you will need a tow vehicle with sufficient available cargo weight to handle the heavy tongue..
Gdetrailer 04/17/21 12:58pm Travel Trailers
RE: Roof Replacement

Using that "logic" one would want to get rid of the fridge vent, the A/C unit(s) and the black and grey tank vents, then you have zero holes to deal with.. In the future when we have all electric, self driving RV's there will be no need for windshields. That will be even less to leak. :C And with no windows it will contain your lifeless body when it comes to a sudden stop as the computer operated vehicle collides with an immovable object its sensors failed to see :E
Gdetrailer 04/17/21 07:39am Travel Trailers
RE: DVD and Blu Ray being discontinued?

When we go camping I download whatever we want to watch from Prime or Netflix onto my iPhone. For Prime you can keep a program at least 72 hours after you have started watching it, but you can keep them up to 30 days if you haven't watched them yet. I bought an adapter for the iPhone that has an HDMI cable socket. iPhone adaptor. There are cheaper ones on Amazon but a lot of reviews say they don't work. This one is from Apple and works fine for me. You start watching the downloaded/saved program on the phone and it can be watched on the TV once the HDMI is selected. I found that if you try to start watching with the cable already connected it gives an error message, but if you start it on the phone and then plug in the cable it works great! The only limitation is how much space you have available on your phone. What you are talking about is different than what I questioned about.. "Prime" may allow you to "download and view later" on the same device it was downloaded too but mileshuff has mentioned "storing" on their Laptop or NAS (Network Attached Storage) and then accessing the laptop or the NAS remotely to watch the downloaded files from Netflix ect. I cut the cord years ago. No cable. Couldn't justify the high cost cable companies charge. Just Wifi. Anything I can access or store on my laptop or NAS I can stream to TV. I do have a roof antenna for local broadcasts but don't watch them very often. I'm about 50 miles from broadcast antennas and pick up about 50 channels although most are in Spanish. I do subscribe to Netflix, Sling and Amazon Prime plus a ton of freebie channels thru Roku. Not sure what I'll do if prices go way up for those. mileshuff is implying that they are somehow downloading streaming material (copy protected streams by the way) to a PC, then moving the streamed file (copy protected?) to their NAS. Then accessing the PC or NAS via a different remote device (unauthorized) which should not be able to view those copy protected downloaded streams.. This implies somehow, mileshuff has found a way around the stream copy protection. I am no fool to this game and neither is the streaming services which is why they copy protect the streams to prevent one from copying and distributing video streams to other unauthorized devices.. Perhaps I am wrong, I don't know, but I see a lot of mentions about saving streams and watching later using other devices that the streams were not downloaded on..
Gdetrailer 04/16/21 03:32pm Technology Corner
RE: Outdoor latches

Great post, really appreciate it. Are there any options to replace the entire latch with a keypad somehow? I look like a janitor at this point with the 20+ keys on my keychain. Not sure if there is any commercially built systems specifically for baggage doors. I know that there is electronic keypad locks for RV doors, but baggage doors are using a different latch setup.. I suppose one could "home brew" their own remote electronic locking system but I suspect it would be on the pricey side of life and a new potential failure point when the electronics part goes sideways and fails in locked position. As far as looking like a Janitor, yeah, I understand that, it is one of the main reasons I replaced all of the baggage door locks on my trailer with new keyed alike cabinet locks. Now I have one key does all for baggage doors, electrical hatch and even the freshwater fill door.. I bought new door latches for both man doors and specified that they needed to be keyed alike. That gets me down to two keys to carry, one for the man doors and one for all other doors.. If we are leaving the trailer for a day outing like swimming, the baggage door keys stay inside the trailer and we can just take the man door key..
Gdetrailer 04/16/21 01:50pm General RVing Issues
RE: Roof Replacement

Example of what I am talking about.. https://i.imgur.com/eNbyXMcl.jpg This damage was not caused by roof vents, it was caused by.. https://i.imgur.com/o7PlHmxl.jpg Which is the trim.. The caulking under that trim had gotten hard and cracked and the previous owner was too lazy to remove the trim and replace the caulking so they used everyones favorite fix in a tube.. Silicone.. The silicone didn't fix the issue and kept on leaking until I bought the trailer and when I stripped back the rotted paneling it was leaking like a sieve when it rained..
Gdetrailer 04/16/21 01:24pm Travel Trailers
RE: Roof Replacement

I would say it has less to do with the holes in the roof (unavoidable), and more to do with the proper maintenance and sealing of said holes. Correct. Proper maintenance is key, doing maintenance on a regular schedule by removing and replacing old dried out cracked caulking and replacing with new fresh caulking will go a long way in keeping your RV leak free.. Not eliminating holes from roof vent in the roof. Either do the routine maintenance yourself or hire it out, should be looked over at a minimum of once per yr.
Gdetrailer 04/16/21 01:06pm Travel Trailers
RE: Roof Replacement

Using that "logic" one would want to get rid of the fridge vent, the A/C unit(s) and the black and grey tank vents, then you have zero holes to deal with. That would be awesome and would result in trailers that last much longer. It's nice to say if you are scrupulous about sealing it's not an issue...but reality is a large percentage of RVs go to the junk yard due to leaks, so clearly it is a problem. Retrofitting an existing RV would be difficult as you would need to figure alternatives out. But if you have good mood lighting already, skipping some or all of the roof vents would not be a bad option. For new construction, it's not nearly as bad: - Skip the vents and skylights and add LED strips around the ceiling. Actually a lot of RVs have already done the LED thing and with power consumption so low, it's really not an issue running them to compensate for the lost natural light. - Fridge...they are already going there with 12v fridges that require no external ventilation becoming the new standard. - Air/con units could do minisplit with the condenser on the rear bumper and no roof penetrations. - Tank Vents could be done with small wall mounted outlets. - A frosted side window in the bathroom, potentially with a fan would handle shower humidity. None of this would be particularly expensive to implement on a new production unit. Side benefits: - Slightly lower profile to get under low bridges/tree limbs. - Maybe a touch more aerodynamic for better fuel economy. - It would make one piece fiberglass or aluminum roofs a cheaper option which would again increase long term water tightness. :R You do realize the part of my post you snipped was a joke? Even with zero roof penetrations you have something like 100 holes in the roof membrane, right? The roofing material folds down over the side wall, then the trim strip is applied over the roofing material on the side wall.. That is a potential leak that is real and that is where most of the water infiltration happens.. You have at least 40 holes on each side of the roof, not to mention all the holes from the end trim strips.. The cold hard reality with RVs you need to constantly check the caulking on a regular schedule, replace when caulking ages. It is called "PMs" or Preventative Maintenance. So in reality, removing all of the holes on top of the roof nets you zero reduction in potential leaks. In fact, I would rather have a leak show up at a roof vent instead of having a hidden leak on the sidewall trim.. That side wall trim can leak for yrs and you will never know it until it pools up and rots out the floor far, far away from the real source of the leak at the trim. Seen considerable rot damage on both of the trailers I have rehabbed that came from leaks on the side wall trim. Just because that trim has a vinyl cover in place covering the screws, it doesn't mean that water can't leak through. That trim uses and depends on the same butyl rubber caulking and it fails after a couple of yrs.
Gdetrailer 04/16/21 12:46pm Travel Trailers
RE: Roof Replacement

Using that "logic" one would want to get rid of the fridge vent, the A/C unit(s) and the black and grey tank vents, then you have zero holes to deal with.. Reality, however, properly done your roof vents pose no more problem for future leaks than the trim that covers the roof to side wall.. Not to mention then you would have the ugly openings on the inside where the roof vents used to be that you would have to cover up.. I do use the roof vent in the bathroom when taking a bath, I did eliminate the roof vent over our master bed when we rebuilt our TT, wasn't a fan of the light that came through it early in the morning at the crack of 5AM. It is a personal choice and up to you.
Gdetrailer 04/16/21 11:55am Travel Trailers
RE: DVD and Blu Ray being discontinued?

I cut the cord years ago. No cable. Couldn't justify the high cost cable companies charge. Just Wifi. Anything I can access or store on my laptop or NAS I can stream to TV. I do have a roof antenna for local broadcasts but don't watch them very often. I'm about 50 miles from broadcast antennas and pick up about 50 channels although most are in Spanish. I do subscribe to Netflix, Sling and Amazon Prime plus a ton of freebie channels thru Roku. Not sure what I'll do if prices go way up for those. How do you digitally record movies at home off Netflix, Amazon Prime, and free Roku channels so that you can take a stick full of them with you on RV trips to play back and watch on a monitor/TV when camping? Good question, I am curious about that also.. My understanding is those streams are "copy protected" and only a few services allow you to "download and play later" but with the caveat that there is a time limit and it must be played back on the device you downloaded it to.. Otherwise you will have to use some "brute force" methods to crack the copy protection or take a hit in sound and video quality and use a "screen recorder" on a PC.. Both brute force and screen record would violate your streaming service TOS..
Gdetrailer 04/16/21 11:02am Technology Corner
RE: DVD and Blu Ray being discontinued?

I’m still buying VHS tapes and cassettes. Lots of old content you can’t get any other way. Plus it doesn’t disappear from the digital library magically. As for camping I just download some shows and movies to my iPad and connect it to the TV. Thanks, Jeremiah. I worked in TV/radio electronics repair shops in the late 80's into the early 90's when VHS/Beta was in it's glory.. Those days are gone and the ship has sailed, old analog video tape has been abandoned by manufacturers. You might be able to find a fe combo VHS/DVD units but those too are no longer being made. Your VHS tapes are on life support and finding good working used VHS machines are not as easy as it used to be.. Repairing VHS machines requiring more than belts and idlers is not feasible. Might be able to find a few NOS parts if you are lucky. I would stop buying used VHS tapes and concentrate on used DVDs. For your current VHS collection, I would suggest you might wish to convert your library to a digital format, there are NTSC analog composite video capture devices you can buy that plug into your PCs USB port. I would do that for any VHS video tape you have that is not available on DVD. The clock is ticking on that old technology, myself, I have thrown out several hundred VHS tapes that I have gone through and either digitized or have replaced with DVDs. On top of that have digitized hundreds of hrs of Video 8/Hi8 8mm video tape preserving my families home movies taken on camcorder over the yrs.. I have even digitized old "Super 8" film my Dad took from the late 60's into the early '80s.. The film was deteriorating and finding good working film projectors with good bulbs for reasonable prices is a daunting task.. I ended up having to manufacture my own parts to repair a projector and then the bulb became an issue so I retrofitted a high power 50W LED in order to finish the digitization.. Even DVDs are on the death bed, the quality of DVD players on the market have gone into the ground but it is possible to "rip" DVDs into a digital file.. My old cassettes, well I have tossed out several thousand hrs worth as I replaced with CDs or digitized what is not available.. Have a few hundred hrs worth to go. Have done the same with Reel to Reel and 8 track tapes.. Those are gone.. Sold my last Reel to Reel unit I had well over 10 yrs ago and have not looked back.
Gdetrailer 04/16/21 08:26am Technology Corner
RE: Outdoor latches

Follow up to my post with pictures.. They are nothing more than "Cabinet" locks To remove barrel.. Key inserted. Remove screw on inside end of barrel https://i.imgur.com/hEJxBEJl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/LnssB62l.jpg Note direction of locked and unlock positions (need that for reassembly) Once screw has been removed and key is in lock the entire lock barrel will pull out through the front of lock assembly. https://i.imgur.com/1qjL7GTl.jpg Once barrel is out, you have two options. Remove the loose metal front and reassemble. Or you might be able to tighten the indentation that was supposed to hold the two in sync. See end of red arrow.. https://i.imgur.com/0jIO3dJl.jpg "border=0" https://i.imgur.com/m3zZPvb.pngClick For Full-Size Image. You can click the last photo for a larger view. To reassemble reverse the above, key will need to be in the barrel to reinsert. If all else fails, you can replace entire lock assembly with any "cabinet" lock of the correct barrel length. You can find cabinet locks at Home Depot or Lowes. The downside will be you will have a odd keyed lock if you have more than one baggage door so you may need to replace all.. Just search through the inventory at the store to locate all with the same key number..
Gdetrailer 04/16/21 07:38am General RVing Issues
RE: Outdoor latches

That is because it IS a "cheap" lock. The lock barrel is actually made of "pot metal" AKA "zinc" which is a very soft material. To get around the soft zinc and to "harden" the lock and make it not so easy to drill they have inserted a key shaped steel fake front. In your case the fake front is turning separate of the actual zinc lock barrel causing a miss match between the two. Not sure if really "fixable" but I would perhaps consider pulling the lock barrel out and see if you can remove the useless front.. Lock barrel my fit a bit sloppy without some sort of shim.. Removal of the fake front may make the lock easier to drill out lowering the low security of those locks a few notches into the dirt in the process.
Gdetrailer 04/16/21 07:05am General RVing Issues
RE: What do you use for an outdoor ground cover?

Why would I cover the ground? I try not to spill much and would clean up if I did spill something. Spend some time camping around or near a beach, then you might understand. We found a plastic weave patio "rug" with an open weave that allows dirt and sand to fall through, keeps a lot of the sand out of the RV. Wouldn't use it if I was camping on grass but sandy/dirt camping spot, it is very helpful.
Gdetrailer 04/15/21 08:53pm General RVing Issues
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