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 > Your search for posts made by 'Gjac' found 122 matches.

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RE: yet another door look bites the dust

I have replaced mine twice over the years when they broke and the third time, I made a steel backing plate to join the two pieces of the zinc alloy striker bar that broke. It has held up well. Someone posted on here a while back about a new lock that he thought was steel but could not verify that it was. This alloy which some call pot metal is brittle and soft, it is cast and not forged or drawn like steel making it much weaker. You need to take it part to see what is actually broken. It could also be the plastic cam inside that moves the sticker bar.
Gjac 01/26/23 08:34pm Tech Issues
RE: Roadtrip by car vs RV, a couple of thoughts...

For short trips with lots of miles, leaving the RV behind often makes sense. - You can travel faster. - You buy less fuel. - You are paying premium short stay rates for campgrounds. - You are probably going to go out to eat several times anyway. Reduce the miles or longer duration trips and it starts tilting back toward RV. This has been my experience also. When I retired in 2004 I kept track of each trip we made on a spread sheet. Trips less than 3 days it was cheaper to take the car, longer than 3 days the RV was cheaper for me. 95% of my trips were dry camping no FHU campgrounds so this might factor into costs. My trips averaged from $67/day in the lower 48 states to $107/day for a 3 mo trip to Alaska. The biggest expense has always been fuel. Fuel to Alaska and back was about $5000 about 1/2 the cost of the total trip. However, by car and hotels where can you find a hotel for less than $100/day let alone eating out and fuel for the car. An RV trip is totally different experience, I had my bike, fishing rods and rubber raft with me, was able to stay inside the NP's and NFS campgrounds with the RV instead of trying to find a hotel outside and driving into the scenic areas. The trip up and staying at the NP's in the US and Canada was just as nice as the destination. Having said all that, we flew out to Las Vegas last Nov. for my nephew's wedding, rented a car and went to Zion, Bryce, Grand Canyon, Antelope Canyon, Sedona, visited friends in Snowflake and Phenix AZ and returned to LV to fly home. It was a good trip now that we are older, just not the same as taking the MH. I did not figure the cost, but it was much more than a MH trip.
Gjac 01/25/23 09:39am General RVing Issues
RE: Flying J / Pilot to install megachargers for med/heavy trks

There seems to be a lot of peripheral arguments both for and against EV's. As run100 just posted above its hard to get all the facts about EV's, but to me math does not lie. So, if you look at it in simple terms and compare apples to apples most EV's that I have looked at take 30 KW's to drive 100 miles. In my state they just raised my electric rate to 33 cents per KW. So, to drive 100 miles in an EV it cost $9.90. My Rav4 hybrid gets 42 MPGs on average, so it takes 2.4 gals to drive 100 miles. At $3.00/gal that is $7.20 at $4.00/gal that is $9.60. That is not cheaper for me where I live. When I looked at a tesla several years ago, I plotted a trip to Florida. Their GPS gives you all the charging stations along the way. They varied from 34 to 50 cents /KW which I'm sure by now they have gone up also. At 50 cents a KW it would cost $15 for every 100 you travel. $225 from CT to Florida vs $144 in my RAV4 at $4.00/gal. So, unless you live in a low-cost state, have access to free charging and don't drive long trips where you need a fast charger, to me an EV is not cheaper to drive.
Gjac 01/22/23 12:43pm General RVing Issues
RE: generator fuel line

I have a 2003 Duch star on a spartan chassis. I figured out the fuel line to the gen set must have an air leak. Or something I have to keep bleeding the gen set. Has anyone ever had with problems and got it fixed? It runs great from a 5 gallon can. Have the identical problem. Dropping my fuel tank is the LAST thing I want to do to fix it. My current "fix" is to detach the fuel line at the generator, connect it to a pump action siphon, and start pumping until I get flow. Then reattach to the generator. However, I'd like a better more permanent fix before dropping my fuel tank. So I'm going to try the "catheter" approach. Got this idea during an angiogram when my doctor routed a catheter up my arm vein into my heart. Very slick. I'm buying a small fuel line to run inside my current fuel line. We'll see. I had this same thought I spent hrs trying to fix it without dropping the tank. I had some small dia plastic tubing which was stiff enough to push through, but it could not make the right angle bends. I think the fuel line would be much softer and would tend to bunch up when you push it in. Dropping a near empty tank was not so bad, probably an hr to actually drop it, going to the parts store to buy a new line installing the line, and reinstalling the tank was about a half day when all was said and done.
Gjac 01/16/23 10:53am Class A Motorhomes
RE: generator fuel line

Yes I have had this problem. The hose clamp to the rubber hose came loose allowing air into the line, the hose itself looked fine except for a crack and deterioration under the clamp but having to drop the tank to access the line I changed the hose also. If you can get to the top of your tank without dropping it see if the hose clamp is tight or if the hose is cracked under the clamp and just a 1/2 in of hose can be cut off to get rid of the cracked portion. I used a motorcycle jack to drop the tank and only had a 1/4 tank or less of gas in it. Good luck.
Gjac 01/11/23 10:52am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 24 feet versus 26' dilemma, have to decide fast

Every RV is a compromise. If you don't plan on a tow car, and just spend one or two nights at a camp spot then move on, I would stay with the 24 ft C. You will probably spend more time outside camping than inside except when you are driving it, and a smaller unit is easier to drive and park. I would look at some of the transit-based Class C's and compare the ride to a Ford or Chevy Chassis. If inside space is still an issue you can always get a 24 ft with a full wall slide.
Gjac 12/18/22 11:40am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Can you name that sound (squeaking)?

Chris your u joints and carrier bushing looks good, you can put a wrench or socket on a breaker bar on the tensioner pulley and remove the belt or just relieve the tension and wiggle each pulley to see if there is any play in them. Also you asked earlier how to check the break squealers, sometimes with out wheel liners or hub caps you can see them with a bright light and a mirror on the end of the break pad. Also if the pads are thin say a 1/8 or so they could be rubbing. Taking the tire off to check to check is not that hard either. While it is jacked up you can wiggle the tire to check you wheel bearings also. Good luck.
Gjac 12/04/22 09:41am Class C Motorhomes
RE: BEST way to get to Myrtle Beach from Boston MA by CAR

If you stay on I95 and get over the GWB by 6:00 AM there will be little traffic and no toll. By the time you get to Baltimore or DC the rush hour traffic will be over. Of course, accidents and construction can always change things.
Gjac 11/30/22 12:28pm Around the Campfire
RE: Freshwater fill - city water issue?

If all else fails they are easily replaced I think I paid about $12 for it. After cleaning it several times which worked for awhile I finally had to replace it.
Gjac 11/29/22 06:46am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ford V10

What year is your coach? Drive by wire started around 06? 2007 year That means your chassis is probably a 2006. Is there an engine code that shows up like a PO505, PO506 or another code that indicates an idle issue? You say it only idles, if you step on the gas will it stall?
Gjac 11/27/22 07:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ford V10

What makes you believe it needs to be replaced? It will only idle & the code reads throttle body stuck. I would check the senor first as Matt suggested and then spray some throttle body cleaner like CRC and see if that fixes the problem. There is also an IAC valve (air idle control valve) that sometimes sticks that can be cleaned also.
Gjac 11/26/22 08:20am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Can you name that sound (squeaking)?

It doesn't sound like brakes to me, but just to eliminate that possibility I would just jack up the wheels and then spin them to see if the calipers are sticking. The next thing I would do if you feel comfortable, is bring it up to 20 mpg where the noise starts and shut off the engine and coast does the noise go away? That would tell you if it is something in or on the engine like a worn bearing in a pully. Without the engine noise it will be easier to isolate the noise you are hearing. Also, if you put it in park and rev the engine does the sound change pitch or go away?
Gjac 11/26/22 05:35am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ford V10

What makes you believe it needs to be replaced?
Gjac 11/25/22 07:45pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New Chevy chassis

Chassis is unchanged, and didn't really need to be changed. It's a much better driving experience than the Ford chassis, but doesn't come in as many wheelbase variations. It tends to get used mainly for small to medium Class C RVs because of not having longer wheelbase options. The new engines for both are more powerful for the same gas mileage, which is good, but the difference isn't huge. The Ford has 350 HP vs 401 HP for the Chevy, seems a lot to me. Plus, there seems to be more room in the cockpit for the passenger's feet, and a better ride as you stated. I'm just surprised no one on here has posted that they bought one yet.
Gjac 11/22/22 09:42am Class C Motorhomes
New Chevy chassis

I hear a lot of discussion about the new Ford 7.3 liter engine but have not heard any about the new Chevy chassis. Has anyone purchased a new MH with the Chevy chassis? On paper it looks to have more HP and Torque.
Gjac 11/16/22 06:59am Class C Motorhomes
RE: P30 Disc brake vs drum brake ball joints

This is a very serious issue. I had two failures due to a shop installing the wrong ball joints. The first failure was entering an interstate in Ohio rounding a corner at 20 mph and the left ball joint failed and the whole front end dropped. After it was fixed the shop back in Ct had to do additional work and replaced the correct ball joints with the undersized ones. The second failure was rounding a corner in Montana at 60 mph and the RH ball joint failed, I thought the MH was going to flip over but I managed to stop it safely. The was no warning sounds of clunking just a sudden failure and the whole front end just dropped. The lighter P-30's have drum brakes in the rear, the heavier ones have disc brakes in the rear. After much research I had the shop in MT. replace the ball joint with Moog parts. The confusion for the person who orders the parts is the ball joints listed under the rear drum brakes say HD so they think it is stronger not realizing the ball joint is undersize. The difference is P-30's with rear drum brakes get one part number and P30's with rear disc brakes get another part number. I cant beleive these ball joints didnt fail like you described. They were clunking for over a year and nobody believed me. It appears that the lower ball joint can be pretty bad and still hold together thru gravity, but the upper ball joint would allow the control arms to seperate and be more catastrophic. That whole front end on these is under built. To be precise, the first failure started with clunking, I went to a shop out west that deals with front ends, and they told me the noise was caused by the coil spring being misaligned, they supposedly reseated the spring charged me $400 and I was on my way to a ball joint failure. The second failure there was no warning at all.
Gjac 11/13/22 10:00am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Wire kit fir tow

I used the Roadmaster wiring kit with inline diodes, it just installs using your own car lights and has worked well for the last 15 years until I gave the car away.
Gjac 11/11/22 07:26am Dinghy Towing
RE: traction tracks

After getting stuck in sugar sand in Florida in my tow car I used palm fronds under the tires to get unstuck. When I got home, I bought a set of plastic traction tracks and kept them in the tow car for many years but never had to use them. I think they would work for my tow car but doubt they would work for my Class A.
Gjac 11/11/22 07:02am General RVing Issues
RE: P30 Disc brake vs drum brake ball joints

This is a very serious issue. I had two failures due to a shop installing the wrong ball joints. The first failure was entering an interstate in Ohio rounding a corner at 20 mph and the left ball joint failed and the whole front end dropped. After it was fixed the shop back in Ct had to do additional work and replaced the correct ball joints with the undersized ones. The second failure was rounding a corner in Montana at 60 mph and the RH ball joint failed, I thought the MH was going to flip over but I managed to stop it safely. The was no warning sounds of clunking just a sudden failure and the whole front end just dropped. The lighter P-30's have drum brakes in the rear, the heavier ones have disc brakes in the rear. After much research I had the shop in MT. replace the ball joint with Moog parts. The confusion for the person who orders the parts is the ball joints listed under the rear drum brakes say HD so they think it is stronger not realizing the ball joint is undersize. The difference is P-30's with rear drum brakes get one part number and P30's with rear disc brakes get another part number.
Gjac 11/11/22 06:29am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold Frig Parts List ??

Also, I found that by adjusting the plastic door latch on my Norcold I was able to tighten the door seal, so it passed the dollar bill test.
Gjac 11/01/22 02:11pm Class A Motorhomes
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