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 > Your search for posts made by 'Gjac' found 496 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Lube slide seals?

I just use silicone spray, seals are 25 years old now and have never leak or torn.
Gjac 05/17/21 07:09am Tech Issues
RE: Microwave replacement options

Before you go through the trouble of retrofitting a new microwave check the thermal fuse inside. It is a couple of dollars and will save you the cost of a new one. I took the back off and looked for any burnt wire and found none. Put back on and put a pyrex cup with wter in it and turned it on for a minute. Immediately got buzzing noise and burning smell. Shut it off and wnet online with symptoms. It's ythe magnetron failing. I disconnected the cord and cut it. It's going to the local recycling center tomorrow. New cheap Walmart microwave is coming today. Will see what modifications I will need to make if any. It should get me thru my camping trip to the sierra's next week. Then I have a month to decide what to do. Thanks! If dimensions are a bit smaller than the original trim you are golden, just fit microwave into the opening. If dimensions are the same or a bit larger than the original trim, you will need to remove trim. In this case you will need to modify the trim to make for a larger opening. Both cases, you will need to allow some air space around the microwave for ventilation. As far as repairing a microwave, for some reason folks are under the impression that they can be fixed by replacing a "thermal fuse", it typically is never that easy. Many yrs ago when microwaves cost $500-$1000 it was worth attempting to fix, now days microwaves can be easily had for $50-$100, they are not worth spending the time to remove the cover even if it was a "thermal fuse". There usually is a reason any fuse blows, they just don't go bad for no reason and replacing a fuse is typically a short lived fix. I used to service consumer electronic equipment like TVs, VCRs, Sat equipment, stereos and yes, microwaves back in the 1990s-2000.. I replaced mine 10 years ago for less than $5.00 and it still works fine. Replaced another for another person and I known it lasted at least 5 years he moved after that so it may still be working.
Gjac 05/14/21 10:27am Tech Issues
RE: Lifting my class C

BruceMc said: ... Do you mean the GC of the front end is less than ford, and it raises the rear end? Most gas 24 ft C's have the 158-159 WB so I assume the over hang is pretty much the same. Is there a minimum GC at the rear hitch you need so it does not drag? There's two factors at play here. First, and perhaps more important, is the length of the overhang. Let's say you have two motorhomes where both are on the same chassis with the same wheelbase, but one is 24' and the other is 27'. As there's 3 more feet behind the wheels, there's a lot more chance for interference - the hitch will be in contact with the ground more frequently. Secondly, because the GM chassis front end rides lower than Ford, that increases the GC (ground clearance) at the hitch, given the ride height is the same at the rear axle. If you have two motorhomes of the same model on GM and Ford with the same/similar WB (wheelbase), the GC of the hitch will ride higher on the GM due to the lower ride height, again, given the ride height is the same at the rear axle. This was very informative I did not realize the Chevy chassis had more GC at the hitch. Is the difference significant say 2 ins or more? I guess the real question when one starts looking at 24 ft Class C's what is the min GC they should look for at the hitch so it does not drag?
Gjac 05/14/21 10:20am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Lifting my class C

BruceMc said: Our Sunseeker on Chevy is 24'; due to the shorter overhang and the lower frontend typical of GM's cutaway chassis, we've never touched the tail on any surface: I was looking at the Sunseeker, I like the partial front cap, Queen bed and a large storage bay underneath. When you say "lower front end typical of GM", Do you mean the GC of the front end is less than ford, and it raises the rear end? Most gas 24 ft C's have the 158-159 WB so I assume the over hang is pretty much the same. Is there a minimum GC at the rear hitch you need so it does not drag?
Gjac 05/13/21 03:56pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Lifting my class C

Is this tail dragging an issue for all short Class C's or only certain ones. I notice some rear overhangs taper up slightly from the rear wheels and some have a more defined taper starting half way between rear tires and back bumper. Is one a better design than the other?
Gjac 05/13/21 07:37am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Refrigerator temp

I have a Norcold 682IM that is 25 years old that works well until outside temps hit 90 plus and I see 40 to 45 degrees inside just like you are seeing. It will recover and go below 35 at night and cycle will start again. Temps are worst when ever we camp with family because the door is constantly being opened. So minimal door opening helps. Also I either pull in or back into a camp site so the sun is not hitting the refer. Another thing to consider if you are just measuring the air temp in side the refer and you see 40F the food will be colder. I put a glass of water inside and a thermometer inside the water and readings were much colder than the air temp readings and did not very as much with the opening of the door. If air temp was 40 water temp was 35.
Gjac 05/13/21 07:27am Tech Issues
RE: Microwave replacement options

Before you go through the trouble of retrofitting a new microwave check the thermal fuse inside. It is a couple of dollars and will save you the cost of a new one.
Gjac 05/13/21 07:01am Tech Issues
RE: 1993 Damon Intruder/P30 454 Overheating

Did that shop turn your fan blade around yet?
Gjac 05/13/21 06:51am Tech Issues
RE: Holes in exhaust

I have always used a hi temp epoxy resin. I think this on is an acrylic resin. As long as it good for 350F or so it will work. Some of these wraps have aluminum mess or foil for added strength.
Gjac 05/11/21 08:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Which of these 3 battery brands would you choose?

I think maintenance is more important than battery brand. Case in point my first set of replacement batteries were Trojan 105's. They lasted me 4 years. People told me that was normal because I only dry camp. My second set were Sam's Club batteries which I bought in 2007 and are still good. Do I think Sam's Club is better because they lasted me 14 years and Trojan only lasted 4 years, no, I just learned how to maintain them better. Secondly, I would buy a battery type based on how you camp and your electrical requirements. Folks with high amp loads or full time might may want to pay extra for a Li battery, people who don't want to be bothered with maintenance may go with AGM, people that just go to FHU CG's a 12v battery is good enough. Not everyone needs a 400 AH Li battery and 400 W of solar panels.
Gjac 05/11/21 03:02pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Holes in exhaust

How bad are the holes? Are the holes near the manifold or aft of the muffler? Does muffler have holes yet? If holes are small, and aft of muffler on a 15 year old exhaust I would just wrap the bad section with hi temp prepreg class cloth, then when muffler finally goes replace the whole system. The heat from the exhaust will cure the resin in the cloth and form a tight seal.
Gjac 05/11/21 01:45pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: LiFePO4 - SOK or Renogy.

I used to backpack when I was younger and still have a water filter that will filter dirty water. The only problem when dry camping you have to be near a water source to use it.
Gjac 05/10/21 09:24pm Tech Issues
RE: LiFePO4 - SOK or Renogy.

If I understand your post correctly because of a deeper discharge of Li Down to 0 SOC and with 2 6v GC batteries only going down 50% SOC gives only 115 usable AH's. Is that what you are saying? That, and that if you can go a week on 115Ah, then storage is not your limiting factor. If you had a very small solar system you could easily have indefinite power. What I really need is a way to regenerate FW, solar would not help me stay any longer unless I could conserve water better or collect it some how. Also where I camp in the NE it is all forest. No sun.
Gjac 05/10/21 02:14pm Tech Issues
RE: LiFePO4 - SOK or Renogy.

How much cheaper would it be to build your own? Roughly what would it cost to get the equivalent of 2 6v GC batteries say about 230 ah's? 280Ah is probably the closest 'standard' LiFePO4 cell size. For that you are looking at $600 - $700 for the cells, another $60 - $120 for the BMS and maybe $100 for wiring equipment and some sort of case. I would guess $750 - $900 all up, cheaper if you are wiling to go with Alibaba and wait on freight, more expensive if you want it shipped from the US (amazon or ebay). This would give you ~3000 cycles at 100% DOD so about 10x the usable Ah than lead acid over the life or the battery (if you plan to use it heavily or keep it a long time). I guess it comes down to what your electrical requirements are VS cost per AH. I was thinking the price of these batteries would come down to make them competitive with lead acid batteries because of the big push to go to EV cars, but as some report the prices have gone up along with other camping supplies. I dry camp 95% of the time and am conservative when it comes to water and electricity. 230AH batteries last a week before they reach 50% SOC and by then I am out of water. So I guess if you full time or have much greater electrical requirement then $900 might make sense VS $200 for 26v GC batteries. One would think with more batteries being produced the cost will comedown dramatically at some time in the future. The cost of these has fallen dramatically - the cells themselves are 1/3 - 1/2 the price of what they were three years ago, and drop in batteries can be had for 1/2 the price. The prices are very competitive with lead acid if you are thinking about the total cost of ownership, rather than just the upfront cost. For your use case a 100Ah LiFePO4 seems like it would be sufficient, which is about $300 for the DIY route or $550 for the drop in route. If I understand your post correctly because of a deeper discharge of Li Down to 0 SOC and with 2 6v GC batteries only going down 50% SOC gives only 115 usable AH's. Is that what you are saying?
Gjac 05/10/21 12:08pm Tech Issues
RE: LiFePO4 - SOK or Renogy.

Hi pianotuna, I have been trying to follow all the new battery technologies, especially the ones that you post, because I know sooner or later I have to replace mine.
Gjac 05/10/21 10:26am Tech Issues
RE: 1993 Damon Intruder/P30 454 Overheating

Yep Gjac, we just did a sheet of paper test to confirm. It is pushing air out of the radiator. We're going to call the shop here in a minute to confirm the P/N on the water pump, but I'm betting this was the original issue. I'll update later when everything else has been sorted. I also still want to confirm the initial timing after this is all done, because lord only knows the last time that was checked. Yes, it sure looks like it. As far as timing goes 454's run much better when you advance the timing some I run mine at 9 degrees BTDC. Some even go up to 12. You will get a performance improvement when you do. I would also check your radiator with your IR gun in a 4 in grid pattern from the top inlet to the bottom outlet and write the temp readings down. You should see an even temperature drop across the whole radiator. Pay particular attention to the center for cold spots which would indicate a blockage. From inlet to outlet you should see a temperature drop of at least 50 degrees if you have a functioning radiator. Also shoot the thermostat housing to see if the temp reading corresponds somewhat to you dash gage reading. Hope this helps.
Gjac 05/10/21 09:39am Tech Issues
RE: 1993 Damon Intruder/P30 454 Overheating

I think the fan blade install is your problem. Not familiar with Haydon fan clutches, it should have come on when the engine overheated. Try to spin it, it should not spin freely by hand when cold, maybe 1/2 revolution.
Gjac 05/10/21 09:21am Tech Issues
RE: 1993 Damon Intruder/P30 454 Overheating

When you say the fan spins to the left I assume you mean CCW as you look forward out the front window is that correct? If so the blades look backwards pushing the air forward instead of pulling the air through the radiator.
Gjac 05/10/21 09:11am Tech Issues
RE: 1993 Damon Intruder/P30 454 Overheating

Did you check the water pump yet?
Gjac 05/10/21 08:57am Tech Issues
RE: LiFePO4 - SOK or Renogy.

How much cheaper would it be to build your own? Roughly what would it cost to get the equivalent of 2 6v GC batteries say about 230 ah's? 280Ah is probably the closest 'standard' LiFePO4 cell size. For that you are looking at $600 - $700 for the cells, another $60 - $120 for the BMS and maybe $100 for wiring equipment and some sort of case. I would guess $750 - $900 all up, cheaper if you are wiling to go with Alibaba and wait on freight, more expensive if you want it shipped from the US (amazon or ebay). This would give you ~3000 cycles at 100% DOD so about 10x the usable Ah than lead acid over the life or the battery (if you plan to use it heavily or keep it a long time). I guess it comes down to what your electrical requirements are VS cost per AH. I was thinking the price of these batteries would come down to make them competitive with lead acid batteries because of the big push to go to EV cars, but as some report the prices have gone up along with other camping supplies. I dry camp 95% of the time and am conservative when it comes to water and electricity. 230AH batteries last a week before they reach 50% SOC and by then I am out of water. So I guess if you full time or have much greater electrical requirement then $900 might make sense VS $200 for 26v GC batteries. One would think with more batteries being produced the cost will comedown dramatically at some time in the future.
Gjac 05/10/21 08:08am Tech Issues
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