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RE: Disposable Razors Observation

I have NEVER gotten a good close shave with any disposable....single blade or multi blade My whiskers are like wire....tough, curly Only good shave is with shaving soap, brush and the ole double edge razor Wash face with soap/water and then rinse (hot water) Get up a good lather...cover face, wait 15 seconds the apply another coating Couple strokes with the double edge, flip to other side...couple strokes then open/rinse in hot running water to clear whiskers and have a go at it again I just wish Barbers did shaves.....haven't find one in years Hot towel, warm lather and a straight razor....oh yeah! I was a barber in the Navy. I cut hair and gave shaves almost every night. I used to shave with the straight razor even after I got out. As I got older the straight razor seemed to get duller, I still cut my BIL's hair but no longer shave around their ears. I use the Bic single edge razors in the shower with my 50 year old shaving brush and a bar of soap. Hot water makes a big difference. Also I found that a few laps in the pool after a workout really softens your beard before you hit the shower.
Gjac 04/12/21 03:25pm Around the Campfire
RE: Great Movie

I have been sick in bed for 2 weeks so just watched Capricorn 1 it was good. I like a movie that is suspenseful, that I can't figure out. A newer movie I liked was The Illusionist. It was a love story, suspenseful and did not figure it out.
Gjac 04/12/21 03:01pm Around the Campfire
RE: LiFePo4 vs Lead Acid...Some points of interest.

Jayco creek said: With the price getting so low for Lifepo4,I can't see a reason not to switch when there about the price of a quality lead acid...JMHO,.. So what is the current price comparison?
Gjac 04/12/21 10:32am Tech Issues
RE: Generator stalls

I would try running it with the genset door open to allow for more cooling, and see if that makes a difference.
Gjac 04/11/21 11:26am Tech Issues
RE: Battery price question...

I bought mine from Sam's Club in 2007 for $74 apiece. They are still going strong after 14 years of dry camping. One thing to be aware of is Sam's and Costco change who they buy from over the years. Mine were either Duracell's or Energizers. I replaced 3 Costco batteries on my cars under warranty and many complain the Costco 6 v GC are dying prematurely. I would stick with Sam's club if they still sell these two batteries brands.
Gjac 04/11/21 10:47am General RVing Issues
RE: Battery observations of winter storage.

I think disconnection is a very good storage method. I have a small car that I just disconnect the negative cable, and after 6 months of winter it starts right up. Yes I have always done this for 14 years. One thing I don't hear talked about on here is when you keep your batteries plugged in 24/7 which many do there is some kind of chemistry taking place that must lead to some plate shedding. I only dry camp so the only time I hook up is to recharge the batteries after a week or so. Maybe someone can shed some light in this area.
Gjac 04/08/21 07:23am Tech Issues
RE: Battery observations of winter storage.

A 30 watt solar panel and a $25 WindyNation weatherproof 4 stage controller will solve all your battery issues when in storage. I think my post proves I have no battery issues while in storage.
Gjac 04/08/21 07:05am Tech Issues
RE: Battery observations of winter storage.

I have a 1000 W MSW that I rarely use anymore. But each year I wonder the same thing. Last year batteries still lasted 7 days of dry camping before reaching 50% SOC, basically what I have seen over the last 14 years. I may have gotten a little more careful with battery usage over the years but not much.
Gjac 04/07/21 02:40pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery observations of winter storage.

I use a multimeter to check SOC. Temperature is measured with a thermometer.
Gjac 04/07/21 02:22pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery observations of winter storage.

I guess I kind of done that inadvertently. I recharge when my batteries get to about 80% SOC with my B&D 40 amp charger, when it says full I float with my onboard Magnatech 950 charger for a few days. I never keep the charger plugged in continually.
Gjac 04/07/21 01:10pm Tech Issues
Battery observations of winter storage.

I winterized the MH in late Oct, pushed battery disconnect to store for house batteries and disconnected the neg cable on my chassis battery. Checked house batteries in Feb and they lost 20% SOC. Checked again today and they were only down 10%. Of course in Feb it was in the 20's and today we are up in the 60's. The batteries are still at 90% SOC after 5 plus months sitting with no charge on them. Each year I think this is it the batteries won't make it through the winter because the batteries are 14 years old but it looks like they will make it another year. I really like the 2 6v GC batteries from Sam's Club, I think back in 2007 they were made by Duracell.
Gjac 04/07/21 12:44pm Tech Issues
RE: Nomadland

Pretty slow, and mostly depressing, but that's just MO. That was my take also it was very hard to watch. I was hoping for some redeeming value somewhere. I reminded me of when we went to Quartzite and then to slab city. People actually lived like that right in the shadow of Salvation Mountain. The high point were how they helped each other with those in need. I would have like it better if Frances hookup up with the guy who liked her and they traveled together.
Gjac 04/04/21 04:44pm RV Lifestyle
RE: Delmanation repair help needed

3 M Spray aerosol contact cement may help...At auto body supply vendors. 77N has been around for a long time, and I have bonded many panels for aircraft with it. You need good pressure to make it bond well. Other things to be aware of, sometimes it is almost impossible to dry the delaminated area if you don't have access to a garage, and the only adhesive that will work in that case is a polyurethane like Elmer's or Gorilla glue. The moisture will cause it to react with the glue and foam out. I made a mess bonding mine back together because I could not get all the moisture out. Acetone in the delaminated area will remove some of the moisture as it evaporates. Ideally if you have a dry area and urethane foam, not Styrofoam as a substrate I would use a good epoxy adhesive from west marine or another boat place. Another thing to know the glass transition temperature(Tg), the temperature in which the resin will begin to soften is much higher for epoxies because they are a thermoset resin. If parked outside in the sun in the summer a contact adhesive will soften from the heat. If you go with a contact adhesive check the spec sheet and see what the Tg is. I have not checked surface temperature on a hot sunny day in AZ in a parking lot but it would not surprise me if it got to 160 F. Hope this helps. Certainly one of the best posts I've read on this forum in over 15 years. Well written and full of useful information. Thanks for the kind words Larry. I worked for an aircraft company for 30 years and worked on a lot of composite development programs.
Gjac 04/02/21 09:26pm Tech Issues
RE: 7.3 Ford vs 6.0 Chevy cockpit room

I really do not know why I found so much of a difference. The 4500 seems to have a softer ride. I would think that would cause more push from big rigs to be felt. That does not happen. I know the Ford road handling was significantly improved by going to +5 castor. What I do know is the stock Chevy with now 48kmi on the clock drives better than the Ford I had with 25kmi on the clock. I really enjoy not having to have both hands on the wheel all the time. I smile every time if I notice that the engine wanted a lower gear on a hill. It is so quiet compared to the Ford. I am a life long Ford guy. Heck I even put up with the infamous early 6.0 Power Stroke Diesel for 100kmi. After driving the 4500 and my mechanic saying the Chevy 6.0 was a solid motor. I could not pass up the floorplan. Yes, this camper is a bit heavier than the last one. I really do not think that is making the difference. If three or even five more of "me" sitting in the center of a truck made it better in cross winds. I would say the truck has a design flaw. I was finally happy with the Ford chassis until I drove the Chevy. I hope this was helpful. I found this thread very helpful. I know from driving my old Class A on a Chevy chassis for 100k miles I drive it with one hand like a car even when trucks pass by. My belief is if you can get each tire to carry the same load and a good alignment the MH should ride well. Each of my ties carry the same load within a 100 lbs or so. Many complain about a white knuckle ride on these old chassis. If you spend any time on the Class A forum you can now see more complaints with the F53 ford chassis and how bad it rides without suspension mods. What I have been trying to figure out is how do you find the actual weight distribution from front to rear of these small class C's. Not on the MFG web sites or door stickers. I called Coachman and asked a tech not a salesmen and he had no idea. I think when you have a 158 in WB the weight distribution front to rear become more important. Does anyone know how to get this info besides asking forum members if the weighed their MH front and back and side to side? You could do what we did ... pull off at a truck scales spot. Park it with the front wheels on the scales and get the reading. Then do the same with the rear wheels on the scales and get the reading. :) Phil what I am trying to do is to determine what the weight distribution before I purchase the MH afterwards is too late. Or are you saying before you by it find a scale nearby on your test drive?
Gjac 04/02/21 09:19pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Old automotive battery charger question

I would keep that old charger for two reasons. If your on board charger does not have an equalizing function that puts out 15-16 volts you can use your portable. What is the output of your onboard charger? Secondly I don't believe the algorithms in these smart chargers fully charge the batteries. I use my 25 year old Magnetek charger to charge for several days after my smart charger says ful and I get several more days of dry camping before batteries reach 50% SOC.
Gjac 04/01/21 06:39pm Tech Issues
RE: 7.3 Ford vs 6.0 Chevy cockpit room

I really do not know why I found so much of a difference. The 4500 seems to have a softer ride. I would think that would cause more push from big rigs to be felt. That does not happen. I know the Ford road handling was significantly improved by going to +5 castor. What I do know is the stock Chevy with now 48kmi on the clock drives better than the Ford I had with 25kmi on the clock. I really enjoy not having to have both hands on the wheel all the time. I smile every time if I notice that the engine wanted a lower gear on a hill. It is so quiet compared to the Ford. I am a life long Ford guy. Heck I even put up with the infamous early 6.0 Power Stroke Diesel for 100kmi. After driving the 4500 and my mechanic saying the Chevy 6.0 was a solid motor. I could not pass up the floorplan. Yes, this camper is a bit heavier than the last one. I really do not think that is making the difference. If three or even five more of "me" sitting in the center of a truck made it better in cross winds. I would say the truck has a design flaw. I was finally happy with the Ford chassis until I drove the Chevy. I hope this was helpful. I found this thread very helpful. I know from driving my old Class A on a Chevy chassis for 100k miles I drive it with one hand like a car even when trucks pass by. My belief is if you can get each tire to carry the same load and a good alignment the MH should ride well. Each of my ties carry the same load within a 100 lbs or so. Many complain about a white knuckle ride on these old chassis. If you spend any time on the Class A forum you can now see more complaints with the F53 ford chassis and how bad it rides without suspension mods. What I have been trying to figure out is how do you find the actual weight distribution from front to rear of these small class C's. Not on the MFG web sites or door stickers. I called Coachman and asked a tech not a salesmen and he had no idea. I think when you have a 158 in WB the weight distribution front to rear become more important. Does anyone know how to get this info besides asking forum members if the weighed their MH front and back and side to side?
Gjac 04/01/21 06:20pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Delmanation repair help needed

3 M Spray aerosol contact cement may help...At auto body supply vendors. 77N has been around for a long time, and I have bonded many panels for aircraft with it. You need good pressure to make it bond well. Other things to be aware of, sometimes it is almost impossible to dry the delaminated area if you don't have access to a garage, and the only adhesive that will work in that case is a polyurethane like Elmer's or Gorilla glue. The moisture will cause it to react with the glue and foam out. I made a mess bonding mine back together because I could not get all the moisture out. Acetone in the delaminated area will remove some of the moisture as it evaporates. Ideally if you have a dry area and urethane foam, not Styrofoam as a substrate I would use a good epoxy adhesive from west marine or another boat place. Another thing to know the glass transition temperature(Tg), the temperature in which the resin will begin to soften is much higher for epoxies because they are a thermoset resin. If parked outside in the sun in the summer a contact adhesive will soften from the heat. If you go with a contact adhesive check the spec sheet and see what the Tg is. I have not checked surface temperature on a hot sunny day in AZ in a parking lot but it would not surprise me if it got to 160 F. Hope this helps.
Gjac 04/01/21 03:43pm Tech Issues
RE: '92 Coachman Chugs & Stalls Cold Gas to Fix - Another Way?

To test for a dying fuel pump, the next time it shuts off and wont start spray some gas or starter fluid in the carb if it starts and keeps running while you are pumping gas in but engine dies when you stop its your fuel pump. To test for a failing coil check spark when engine is cold then check spark when engine is hot and shuts down. Will the spark jump .250 to ground? My guess is a failing fuel pump.
Gjac 04/01/21 10:46am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 7.3 Ford vs 6.0 Chevy cockpit room

I had an E350 class C. A 28A as I recall. I had spent a fair amount of money on it to get it to handle right on the road and not scream (5Star tune ($500)) up small hills. The selling dealer let me take my current rig 180 miles, round trip, to my mechanic for inspection. Now I was pre-sold on the layout. But the drive in strong cross winds and trucks passing me sold me on the stock Chevy chassis. Along with the ease of getting into the house from the driver’s seat. Btw, I only buy used. My current camper had 40k on it when I bought it. The previous Ford had 25k on it when I traded it in. ARJ, you mentioned your new Chevy drove better in cross winds and trucks passing , why do you think the Chevy was better in cross winds? Do you think the weight was distributed better front to rear on the Chevy because of the weight of the slide? I noticed your previous Ford was a non slide.
Gjac 04/01/21 10:32am Class C Motorhomes
RE: WB longer than 159 ins in a 23-25 ft Class C

Gjac, You've posted great conclusions. There are so many variables which translate into trade-offs. Each person has to decide his own priorities while understanding what that means in trade-offs. A few trade-offs like "poor handling" and "lack of outdoor storage" for example can be addressed with additional investment, but you simply deny yourself most others. It comes down to "I can live with this" and I can live without that". You are so right Ron, buying a small Class C, takes a lot of research to find the right set up for you and there are a lot of things to consider. I have some more questions so will start another thread.
Gjac 04/01/21 10:20am Class C Motorhomes
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