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 > Your search for posts made by 'HMS Beagle' found 72 matches.

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RE: Yet another Air Dam/Spoiler/Airfoil thingy

Another update on mine. Stiffening the lip eliminated the folding back. For the last trip (only 350 miles but in bug country) I cleaned the camper bulkhead and overhang. No bugs on the bulkhead except right outboard. No bugs on the overhang except in a pattern near the edges of the valence. Still haven't noticed a marked difference in mileage, headwind/tailwind makes far more difference than anything. I think the noise reduction is real.
HMS Beagle 06/26/22 03:19pm Truck Campers
RE: Yet another Air Dam/Spoiler/Airfoil thingy

Update: I added a stiffener to the lip of the valence, 1/4 x 3/4 aluminum fit behind the molded lip nicely, just bent it to shape screwed through to some tapped holes. Second 900 mile trip from home to Anacortes, WA, about 900 miles, this time with the wife. She immediately noticed the reduction in wind noise. The valence held its shape. From the rain pattern, it seems to be different when it stays in shape. The camper bulkhead is dry, even in fairly heavy rain. There is an arc of wet about 12 - 18" behind the valence on the overhang, this seems to be where the jet of air squeezes between the windshield and the valence. The V of water from there back where the valence folded is gone. I should have cleaned the bugs from the bulkhead before I started this trip, can't tell if that is different because the old bugs are still there. Fuel mileage last trip was reported as 12.0 mpg last time, 13.8 mpg this time, but I think most or all of that can be accounted for by better weather conditions. Last time persistent headwinds, sometimes quite strong, this time more even handed and not all that strong. I don't think mileage has been affected significantly either way.
HMS Beagle 05/08/22 09:28pm Truck Campers
RE: Heki 2 Skylight Inner Frame Failure

It is a ridiculously expensive part. Unless you buy one from Europe, then it is fairly reasonable. It is, however, not a durable part.
HMS Beagle 05/02/22 10:02am Truck Campers
RE: Heki 2 Skylight

Hey glad it worked out. I just wish Heki made a more durable product. The concept is great, the execution - not so much.
HMS Beagle 04/27/22 11:26pm Truck Campers
RE: Heki 2 Skylight

If is quite easy to use a freight forwarding service to have the product shipped to a local address (in the UK) who will then forward on to you. For example I have used to buy lots of stuff in the UK from suppliers who will not ship to the US. The price is reasonable and there isn't any ongoing membership charge. They will even act as your buyer if the vendor will not accept a US credit card. They have shipping addresses in Germany and throughout Europe as well. If you don't like them they have many competitors. When my Heki dome cracked, a new one from Dometic cost almost twice what I was able to buy the whole unit for from the UK.
HMS Beagle 04/27/22 10:32am Truck Campers
RE: Yet another Air Dam/Spoiler/Airfoil thingy

Wtih anything between overhang and cab, you must be very careful. The cab roof isn't very strong and even soft foam at a couple of PSI might well cave it in (2 PSI on a cab roof 4'x6' is about 3 1/2 tons).
HMS Beagle 04/15/22 08:38pm Truck Campers
RE: Solar Panel Mounts

Just VHB tape, on a solid roof, will be stronger than a few #8 screws. VHB tape attached to rubber roof membrane, with the rubber roof membrane being glued to the underlayment of the roof is a horrible idea. On any rubber roof RV, the panels need screwed down to the wood under the rubber roof. I'd agree that on a rubber membrane roof VHB tape is a bad idea. In fact a rubber roof is a bad idea, but that's another subject. That's why I said "on a solid roof".
HMS Beagle 04/12/22 08:48am Truck Campers
RE: Solar Panel Mounts

Just VHB tape, on a solid roof, will be stronger than a few #8 screws. I don't know what the roof of the Artic Fox is made from, but I'm always loath to drill holes in any roof. Solar panels generally last a long time and do not fail often but it does happen. There is no standard size and the product offerings churn, so mounting them in a way that allows some flexibility in the shape if you have to replace them (without having to plug the holes previously drilled) is an advantage. I glued the panel mounts on my Bigfoot roof with 5200 about 8 years ago and they are still there. I just stuck a 420W panel on the upper deck of my boat with VHB, I don't think it's going anywhere either.
HMS Beagle 04/10/22 07:54pm Truck Campers
RE: Yet another Air Dam/Spoiler/Airfoil thingy

Well I think the first fix will be to stiffen it to prevent the distortion. It is quite stiff out towards the ends, but pretty floppy in the middle. Hard to know what holes will do, where to put them, how big, how many. I note that some previous efforts feature holes. But I don't know of any comparisons with and without.
HMS Beagle 04/09/22 07:41pm Truck Campers
RE: Yet another Air Dam/Spoiler/Airfoil thingy

I almost never drive with the side window open. I used to have a boot for the cat crawl through, and left the rear window open, either way it made no difference on the bug pattern.
HMS Beagle 04/09/22 08:25am Truck Campers
RE: Yet another Air Dam/Spoiler/Airfoil thingy

It looks good. I can see why you would want it behind the marker lights but the gap you need to account for movement of the camper may end up in the same amount of flow as you are having right now between the valence and windshield. Have you considered combining your new valence with some foam between the camper and rear cab to disturb the flow of air? From rain and bug patterns there seems to be a flow bubble at the clearance lights and just behind. I think the windshield deflects flow up, then it bounces off the overhang. So a shorter dam back a bit further might do some good, even though clearance would have to be maintained. I liked the position I have as it allows it to overlap the cab vertically, without hitting - but it leaves a gap. I didn't think that gap would be a problem judging from the stagnation of rain droplets towards the top of the windshield, but clearly there is lots of pressure there, enough to distort the valence. Another thought is to add a rubber chin on the valence that actually contacts the windshield, closing the gap. It would rub, but that might be OK. I might try that at least as an experiment.
HMS Beagle 04/08/22 07:58am Truck Campers
RE: Yet another Air Dam/Spoiler/Airfoil thingy

The air trapped between the camper and roof of the truck forms a dead zone that effectively blocks the flow of air. This is easy to see. Drive through a rainstorm. The nose of the camper and the overhang area will be wet. A few inches behind the roof of the truck to the bed area will be dry. The same can be seen driving through an insect hatch. There will be no bugs in that area. Maybe on your camper, but provably not true on mine. Bottom of the overhang will be wet and is spattered with bugs. There is a line of bugs on the camper bulkhead and it will be wet in the rain. Opening the rear window resulted in a large wind through the cab. Air flow in the area is much different after installing the dam. Any universal statements like that have to be treated with skepticism. Campers and trucks come in a wide variety, the spacing between the cab and overhang will differ, the overhang may end in front or behind the windshield depending on crew cab vs short cab, EW vs. NS bed, etc. Not quite an infinite variety but approaching that. Which also makes the design and installation of one problematic, others experience's may not be duplicable on your rig. I'm not suggesting what I did would work for others, but I am contributing to the knowledge pool.
HMS Beagle 04/08/22 07:53am Truck Campers
RE: Yet another Air Dam/Spoiler/Airfoil thingy

Driving around locally here the valence is slowly returning to its former shape. I think my next step will be to stiffen the lower edge with something, strip of aluminum or perhaps laid up carbon fiber. I liked the idea of it being plastic to be resiliant from damage and also no damage the truck in a failure, but it clearly is not up to the task as is. Perhaps a Ford branded one would be better. I'll be doing this trip again in early May and will see if the stiffened edge makes any difference. I think if doing it again (and I may) I'd try moving it back just behind the cab clearance lights, using the 2WD version. Based on where the bugs hit the overhang this might catch most of the wind which is driving up from the windshield.
HMS Beagle 04/07/22 09:59pm Truck Campers
RE: Yet another Air Dam/Spoiler/Airfoil thingy

It looks pretty good, I do have to raise the camper another couple of inches higher to put it on or the valence will scrape the roof. Now does it work? I just drove 900 miles from Napa to Anacortes, Wa. All the way up the Sacramento Valley on I5, about 25 knots of north (head) wind. Calmer weather in Oregon and Washington. The wind noise seems to be reduced, in that I can hear the tire noise and engine noise more distinctly. It isn't silent still, but improved. I've made this same trip several times recently, and the fuel mileage was about the same, at least within the range of variation. I've gotten as much as 14.5 for this round trip and as little as 12, this time one way 12.6 which combined with the headwind for the first 200 miles probably about the same. The aerodynamics are certainly different, opening the window produces a slight breeze from the rear, opening the back window produces almost no wind, just lets in more road noise. If I stick my hand out there is accelerated air coming around the edge of the dam, and very little wind on top of the cab. It produces a faint wind whistle between about 35 and 45 mph, but goes away above that speed. Now the problems. When I stopped for fuel in Oregon (it isn't any cheaper in Oregon right now than California - what's up with that!!??), I noticed that the slight distortion had become a large cave in. It hadn't hit anything but air and the occasional bug. With the middle caved in, there was a bug spatter pattern emanating in a V from there across the cab roof going aft. I still have a bug pattern underneath the overhang about matching the one I'd marked out prior to the dam, though fewer of them I think. I also had bugs across the camper bulkhead near the top, again like before the dam but not as many. How much of that is due to the failure of the valence to hold it's shape is a good question. width=640 * Adjusted image size using width=640
HMS Beagle 04/07/22 09:55pm Truck Campers
RE: Yet another Air Dam/Spoiler/Airfoil thingy

It was meant to be close to the cab and that's how it came out. When you have something that close you really appreciate how much the camper moves around relative the the cab. But it does not hit. The position was a guess, based on bug patterns, rain streams on the windshield, gut feelings: width=640 width=640 width=640 * Adjusted image size using width=640
HMS Beagle 04/07/22 09:44pm Truck Campers
RE: Yet another Air Dam/Spoiler/Airfoil thingy

This is how it looks with the valence mounted. Note the little wave in the middle, this is the distortion in the molding: width=640 width=640 * Adjusted image size using width=640
HMS Beagle 04/07/22 09:40pm Truck Campers
Yet another Air Dam/Spoiler/Airfoil thingy

Since we don't have enough threads on this already: I decided to make one, the goal was to reduce wind noise which was more with the camper on than off. Also wanted to reduce the bug count on the camper bulkhead. I saw some posting in which a guy used a valence (front air dam) for a truck, looked pretty good so I stole the idea. I used the valence for my truck and year model, figuring that it would be the width of the cab. This comes in two versions, a 2WD model about 5" high and a 4WD model about 7" high. It looked like I had room for the 7" so I ordered one (and aftermarket one) for about $110. To attach it, I cut a piece of fiberglass G10 plate, 1/4" thick, to match the valence shape. I CNC cut some recesses in the top side to accept blind nuts, then used 3M VHB to stick it to the camper overhang. The molding was a little floppy and distorted, perhaps because it was aftermarket, though it is about as thick as the one under my truck. Here is the mount stuck to the camper. I set the tape slightly in from the edge and then caulked the edge with 3M 4000UV to protect the tape: width=640 * Adjusted image size using width=640
HMS Beagle 04/07/22 09:37pm Truck Campers
RE: Poorly planned purchase of Torklift Rear tie downs

I have towed with the ball under the camper, provided you have clearance on turns it works just fine. Better than a longer extension actually. It is more of a pain to hitch and unhitch. I'd hook it up and check the turn clearance, also if the tongue is close under the camper overhang you have to think about steep service stations ramps, but if it clears, I'd tow it that way.
HMS Beagle 04/07/22 09:30pm Truck Campers
RE: Happijac motors

The newer jacks are longer on the bottom, not the top so didn't reduce your overhang clearance - but would get that much closer to the ground if you lower them.
HMS Beagle 03/07/22 01:17pm Truck Campers
RE: Happijac motors

4" interference isn't exactly in the "just slam it closed range". Also, should you need to replace the jacks themselves, you will find they are about 3" longer at the bottom, so now you would really be dragging them if moved down. Most of the retailers warn that the new motors are taller and may not clear the overhang. They also warn that the new motors do not have an overload clutch, that function having been moved inside the electronics of the new controller - so be careful at the ends of travel.
HMS Beagle 03/07/22 10:04am Truck Campers
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