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 > Your search for posts made by 'HMS Beagle' found 96 matches.

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RE: They get bigger and bigger.

I think a chassis mounted camper would be a class D. But since it comes off, it is just a truck camper. One thing that really opens up possibilities in floor plans is the side entrance, and getting the floor above the wheel wells. Personally, I could have a pretty good floorplan that way without the slides, which I would prefer. The basement campers already have the floor above the wheel wells, but they run into the pickup truck bed. I've considered the possibility of sectioning the bed Texas Welder style to do that they did.
HMS Beagle 02/20/22 06:51pm Truck Campers
RE: Truck camper title?

In California a truck camper is considered cargo, and a truck with a camper is considered a truck carrying a load. Technically it is illegal to put your truck license plate on the camper in California though I doubt this has ever been cited.
HMS Beagle 02/14/22 06:54pm Truck Campers
RE: Wind Deflector

I've got the valence, built and painted the mount, and have the 3M VHB to attach it. All that remains is sticking it to the camper. That requires at least two on/off cycles which I will get to in the next couple of weeks. There is some question as to where the ideal position would be. It would be nice to be able to trial it at several positions before mounting permanently. I'm guessing about even with the top of the window glass or slightly behind that.
HMS Beagle 02/10/22 10:51am Truck Campers
RE: Does anyone need some used Happijacs?

144 views and no takers, I guess they are going to landfill.
HMS Beagle 02/07/22 05:12pm Truck Campers
Does anyone need some used Happijacs?

I have 4 used jacks, two are 4150 and two are 4500. Originally mounted on my Bigfoot, I bought four new ones. It turns out the new ones work no better than the old, but I'm not taking them off and returning them. These are from 2008, need paint, but aren't completely rusted or anything, been in Calif all their life. I took one apart thinking to grease it but it actually looked pretty clean inside. Just want to keep them out of landfill and out of my shop, come and get them, free. I could potentially ship them in the boxes that the new ones came in, but it would be expensive, perhaps more than they are worth.
HMS Beagle 02/06/22 01:04pm Truck Campers
RE: Wind Deflector

I'm about half way through the build on mine. I bought a bumper valance (replacement for stock) for a 4wd truck same year and model (2015 F350). The 2wd version is 4" tall, the 4wd version is 7" tall. Decided to make a fiberglass plate with blind nuts to mount it, that way it is easily removable/replaceable for maintenance or testing. This will be stuck to the camper overhang with VHB or PU (no holes). The styling dept. at Ford made the valance match the width and approximate curvature of the truck cab so it doesn't look too bad. It is plastic so incidental contact with the cab will not be catastrophic. It was cheap and seems durable. Only question now is how far forward/back to mount it. It would be great to be able to experiment with that but I've got no ideas how to hold it in place temporarily to try. I'll post some pictures when I get it done.
HMS Beagle 02/02/22 09:45am Truck Campers
RE: Let's talk air bags...

There are two common ways airbag helper springs are installed: on top of the leaf springs connecting to brackets hanging out from the frame, or on top of the axle directly underneath the frame rail. The former will maintain the roll resistance (and even increase it if the effective spring rate goes up), while the latter will reduce the roll resistance to the extent they are carrying any weight. That could partially explain why people's experience differs.
HMS Beagle 01/23/22 05:18pm Truck Campers
RE: Wind Deflector

It isn't really the camper directly behind the cab. I get splatters to the sides of the cab on the part that sticks out, and platters all the way across in a few inch band just below the overhang - where the 90 angle is. If I open the back window it is very different, camper/no camper. There is also more/different buffeting with the windows open, and more wind noise generally. It isn't a surprise to me that different truck/camper combinations are different. There are many variables in shape, gap, height, overhang, shape of camper nose.
HMS Beagle 01/22/22 06:32pm Truck Campers
RE: Wind Deflector

https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/camper-mods/projects/4-camper-air-dams-and-wind-deflectors/ Thanks for pointing out that link. The guy who used a molded valence was brilliant.
HMS Beagle 01/22/22 04:02pm Truck Campers
RE: Wind Deflector

To fasten it, why not some VHB tape? Or 5200 or Sikaflex? Those would removable (with some effort...) and would not create leaks. Should be plenty strong enough, but does depend on the skin being solid or fastened to something solid. That is how I intend to mount one if I do anything. I would expect Zero improvement. The gap between the truck and camper seems to be a total dead zone. I have never seen bugs, dirt or water enter that area regardless of speed or conditions. I have little or no significant wind noise due to my camper. If you have wind noise, I would look elsewhere. Start with protrusions and irregular areas. I would look at the gutters, running lights, vents, and similar. On your camper. Not mine. I have quite a harvest of bugs mainly on the outside edges of the camper but extending in and even all the way across up high (over the cab). There is also a nice pattern of bugs under the overhang somewhat defining the shape of the cab. There is definitely more wind noise with the camper on that with it off. Every situation is going to be different. I have a supercab, not a crew cab truck, so the camper overhang extends some distance ahead of the windshield. The camper overhang sits pretty low, maybe only 6" above the cab roof. The Bigfoot has no sharp corners or irregular protrusions. The airflow around the truck and camper has got to be pretty complex, not easy to visualize without a wind tunnel. I've thought about tufting it and photographing the flow, and might do that prior to and mods. Consider Air Tabs? I've looked as them, and could see the possibility of filling in the low pressure behind the camper. Less sure about the area underneath the overhang. Back when Sleepy was describing his, someone did pop up who had tried the on the front of his camper - put them underneath the overhang if I remember - and said they reduced the wind noise. If they were cheap I might try that, actually it would only cost about $70 so might be worth a try.
HMS Beagle 01/22/22 03:55pm Truck Campers
RE: Wind Deflector

I'd not be expecting much difference in mileage, but would be looking for a reduction in wind noise in the cab, and maybe a reduction in bug count. None of the videos by Blair seem address the truck cab/camper gap, other deflector on other type RVs.
HMS Beagle 01/21/22 01:56pm Truck Campers
RE: Wind Deflector

Don't know the answer but am interested in seeing a picture of the result, as well and any impressions on what it changed. Been thinking of this myself.
HMS Beagle 01/21/22 09:31am Truck Campers
RE: Happijac new vs old?

You can often find the head motors on Ebay. I've replaced the back jacks now too, with the same result. They run about the same speed and work the motor just as hard.
HMS Beagle 01/19/22 04:56pm Truck Campers
RE: Happijac new vs old?

OK, to finish this out: I bought four new 4820 jacks. The new jacks work fine as a replacement for the 4500 and 4150 jacks. Motors fit on top, all the holes in the same place, etc. The new ones are about 3 inches longer than the old. They have zinc plated lower tubes and a dust scraper on the leg. The literature and some magazine reports say they are much stronger, however the tube size and wall thickness are the same as the old, and they weigh the same (26 lbs). Therefore they cannot be much stronger or stiffer than the old ones if at all. The upper tube being a few inches longer will add a little but not much. Mounting one on one side of the front, I tested the new alongside the old one still on the other side. There was no significant difference in current drawn by the motors, when both of them are activated they run about the same speed with the same sound. This strongly implies that the torque required is similar. Given that the old ones were ball screw and the new ones Acme screw, the old ones should be easier operating. But another difference is the new ones have a roller thrust washer while the old ones have a plain greased washer. The two primary sources of friction are the nut and the thrust washer contributing about equally. The old one with low friction ball screw but high friction thrust washer seem to behave about the same as the new one with high friction Acme screw and low friction roller thrust washer. That makes the new ones better in my opinion since the Acme screw is more robust and less affected by dirt. In addition, though I did not disassemble them to confirm, the new ones reportedly allow easy removal of the Acme nut for cleaning, greasing, or replacement while the old ball nuts are pretty much not serviceable. So to summarize the new ones aren't stronger, don't operate much easier, but are probably longer lived and certainly more serviceable. They can be used as a replacement for the old without changing the motors or controller.
HMS Beagle 01/18/22 06:45pm Truck Campers
RE: Is an old fantastic fan worth fixing?

I removed a new one put in a couple of years ago and replaced it with a Maxx Air. At this point, much better product.
HMS Beagle 01/18/22 02:33pm Truck Campers
RE: Replace OEM fuel tank?

So let's say you save $0.30/gal on the extra 30gal of fuel you can now carry (yes, you can find stray situations where it's higher but more often than not it will be less). That's $9 per fill up. When you cross the border from California into Oregon, the diesel price drop is typically $1/gallon, often more. The main reason is taxes, but also zip code pricing. For example all the way up I5 in N CA, cheapest I could find last trip was about $4.40, just into Oregon even the name brand stations were $3.00.
HMS Beagle 01/17/22 09:49am Truck Campers
RE: Let's talk air bags...

Guys that say bag can only stiffen the ride are dead wrong. There is much more to suspension dynamics than just a knee-jerk reaction can offer. The way they are usually installed in a pickup truck, they stiffen the ride. There is no mystery to how air suspension works, they are installed on 80% + of the over-the-road heavy trucks and well understood. Air helper springs as installed on pickups are not the same thing: they are convoluted bag instead of a rolling lobe bag, and the installed height of the bag is very low. To support a given load, the ONLY dimension that can change spring rate is installed height of the bag. At a given installed height, the spring rate will depend on the load it is supporting. In real air suspension, the installed height is typically about twice what it is on an aftermarket air helper spring. Since the travel of the convoluted bag is usually less than the truck leaf springs you more less have to inflate them to retain a ride height near the unloaded height. This will almost always increase spring rate. Typical numbers for a pickup: rear spring rate 1000 lbs/in, doesn't change much until the overloads hit their perches. Load a 4000 lb camper and you are down 4" in the back. Typical helper air bag has 25 sq in active area each side, so to remove the 4" sag takes 80 psi. A pair of 5" high bags has a spring rate of 1000 lbs/in, added to the leaf springs (which are still there and active) gets you 2000 lbs/in total, twice the stock springs. Only if the bags were installed so that the leaf springs were inactive (very unusual!) would the spring rate be lowered. If the air bags are used to keep the overloads from engaging it is more complicated, they may be softer than the overloads or not. Air springs are also progressive, and short ones like those in pickups are highly progressive. The leaf spring is close to linear. So the above air bags have a spring rate of 1000 lbs/in over the first inch of compression, but 1670 lbs/in over the second inch of compression. The pressure goes from 80 psi at 5", to 96 psi at 4", to 133 psi at 3" height. This may be why they feel "bouncy" to some. The stock leaf springs would be nearly the same 1000 lbs/in over the same range, vs. 2670 lbs /in with the air bags at 80 psi nominal.
HMS Beagle 01/16/22 02:40pm Truck Campers
RE: Let's talk air bags...

Unfortunately air bag helpers as typically installed are likely to stiffen the suspension, not soften it. In taking out sag they also support the weight, with a spring rate that is higher than the stock steel springs. Given the variability of roads, you would probably need in-cab adjustment of pressure and run over the same road a few time to really make a judgement.
HMS Beagle 01/15/22 10:51am Truck Campers
RE: Sikaflex 221 for side mounted fridge vent?

My RV manufacturer used pure silicone on all joints 19 years ago and it has never failed. I have resealed items I have replaced with 100% silicone and have never had a problem. I do the painters tape deal and it looks perfect. You should be playing the lottery with that luck. My experience is different than yours. My 14 year old camper was sealed with silicone, effectively 100% of that sealant has failed. I have owned 5 largish RVs (3 Bigfeet, one Airstream, one Safari), all had at least some silicone used, with nearly complete failure. In the yachting industry silicone is rarely used to seal any deck fittings, and only on the cheapest of products. 3M and Sika are perhaps the most used sealant brands, both make silicone and polyurethane sealants, and both recommend polyurethane for this use. For critical applications (like boat underwater fittings) both specifically recommend NOT using silicone.
HMS Beagle 01/08/22 06:55pm Truck Campers
RE: Happijac new vs old?

Yet sadly, no alternative.
HMS Beagle 01/06/22 04:35pm Truck Campers
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