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 > Your search for posts made by 'Hank85713' found 13 matches.

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RE: Your Opinion On Air Bags

I have and have had bags on my trucks. Biggest thing they ADD capability to keeping it level and then that helps keep the trailer level and as a result may improve the areodynamics of the load since high front end causes more air resistance (?) low front on trailer increases resistance from the trailer (?). This all supesition but it does sound reasonable. My SIL has the v6 with turbos dont think he has/had bags just bought a new truck no towing yet but when he did tow it really did not squat. So you might want to weigh the truck with trailer and then see if you can determine hitch weight to see if too much weight is foreward on truck.
Hank85713 08/01/22 12:29pm Tow Vehicles
RE: 1983 Midas Kingston - free RV with a locked engine

go look at you tube videos on rv refurbishment. I have watched some and they are pretty entertaining while showing what has been happening and expected future results. I did a partial rebuild on a TT I got for the kids when they went to softball tournements and it wasnt hard BUT I did not tear it all apart. The framing on front was pretty well trashed due to leaking clearance lights so ended up replacing a lot of the forward framing using cripples and stuff to support the existing framing. Never did get around to working in rear bedroom as I sold the things since the kids never did use. It can be fun AND frustrating, so go review the youtube stuff and enjoy.
Hank85713 05/02/22 11:47am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Pre trip preparations...

you actually need to experiment with the air pressures for best results. I run 60-65 in front and 65-70 in rears. 60-70 in airbags. we do not load heavy only carry about 1/3 tank of water and empty grey/black. dont know if you have new/used rig so hard to say much more. If used may need new shocks to help. Some say buy the high dollar stuff I have read reviews on monroe shocks and they sound to be good. again if used check if you have a front stabilizer it may also need r&r.
Hank85713 03/05/22 04:22pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Tires---Ouch

check craigslist or whatever you have locally. Out here there are always new vehicle takeoff offered and there also a lot of independent tire sellers. Yes I know the costs are high as I had a bridgestone with a slipped tread over $1000 to replace all on rear with 1 being adjusted out. Had a tire separation on my F350 a couple of years ago tore up the bed on truck, called bridgestone who recommeded I go to their tires since its used mainly on highway. Again over $1000 with all being adjusted out per the manuf with the shop. SO just need to shop around or travel out your area for possible better deals.
Hank85713 02/17/22 11:19am Tow Vehicles
RE: Drivetrain slipping?

Maybe get the vehicle checked for codes at a repair shop or even autozone or similar. Codes may not show but that might be the 1st thing to check imo.
Hank85713 02/17/22 11:14am Tow Vehicles
RE: Just purchased a 2016 Cambria

We have a 2012 Aspect which is the sister vehicle from winnebago and we tow a 2013 Hyundai elantra. It all depends on what you want can do the elantra is a manual transmission model and we have probably equal or more towed miles on it than driven. It weighs around 2800 lbs, has good wheel stance and tows well. If you are limited to a automatic then you will need to search on as the hondas able to be towed are all older models. Some folks we knew bought a buick suv that they tow behind their DP but I dont know anything about which one etc. many say get a jeep but I know folks who had one and they have their share of issues and are not the most comfortable of vehicles if you plan to drive any distance. Good sam has a link to towed vehicles annually and I think it is due out next month for the current year. Do a site search for it for older/earlier vehicles. The hyundai are no longer 'towable" supposedly. Go to the roadmaster or other towing equipment sites they may have charts on available kits for various vehicles.
Hank85713 02/03/22 10:16am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Gumout VS Seafoam Additives

There is a mech on you tube and he said the same about the mentioned fuel cleaners/additives. He recommended the use of ROYAL purple to clean the injectors etc. My son has a escalade that developed a slight miss I told him to try as he4 had no codes. Added the big can and he drove and things did improve bought him a bottle of the same stuff to add at 2d fill up. Said it runs real well now. Wife has a 01 accord that has 100000+ on it and it was kinda sluggish added the same stuff for 2 fillups and its a totally different car now. More pep and power. big can around $15 at autozone, small bottle around $7 atwally world/oriellys.
Hank85713 01/23/22 12:45pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C - with ability to tow

I would recommend that IF you plan extended stays in the rv that a class c is really not what you want. Had a guy I know buy a new 24 ft C kept it about 4 months was not happy with the size as they had to fold the bed to bring in rear slide, the dining area was small and the over all construction left a lot to be desired, paid around $70K for it and traded for a bigger class A (he has also gotten rid of it as they went back to a house). Overall they lived in the rv's for a little over a year. We have a 28 ft which is big enough for 2 but no way with a large dog. Ours is on a E450 chassis and we do tow a 3000lb car. It handles it well, but not so sure on a 4500lb or so jeep. Yes we have 5K receiver but as others have posted it may not really be able to handle that weight in reality. Mainly they are lower weighted due to extensions on the rear frame, so that is something to think about. I would recommend that you consider a small class A some are around 30-32 ft or and would be better for you if you do plan extended stays. Most will still be with V10 or the new 7.3 or whatever it is. You will not have the concerns about the jeep either I dont think. You need to research a couple to see what their limits are. BTW the class A the guy bought had the v10 and got almost the same mpg as the 24 ft class c as well as what we get. Another thing to consider is how well the thing is insulated. Our c is not well insulated and it is a name brand, this is summer and cold weather I am referring to. If you will be in az we still get cold here particularly at night. day times temps may be nice but the cold is still here depending on where you are going to be. We are in tucson and it has been 80-90 day time and high 40-mid 50's at night. and its not winter yet. So do the research, my BIL has a dp adventurer and he indicated that the lpg went fast when they stayed out in the thing again particularly in the evenings and night. I think most c's only have an 18 gal tank for propane?? Whatever you decide make sure to research well before you buy.
Hank85713 11/15/21 03:27pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Valve extenders

Try find the LONG stems from like the Tire man used to sell. I bought a set a couple of years ago but forgot where I put them so I ended up with using extenders. One after a while would not allow air into the tire (?) and the others were always low after a while. Found the stems while cleaning up some storage space and had them installed, put air in last May and when O checked again this week had only lost 1-3 psi since. A lot easier to air up, but are PIA for shops to use a spin balancer, They do require some rubber plugs to keep from vibrating but they came with the KIT. Check camp world they may have them. I remember seeing them at one time along with spare rubber wheel inserts. I run Alcoa rims. Also check amazon and ebay for the things. https://www.amazon.com/DL1EC-Chrome-Dually-Valve-1992-2006/dp/B077MG3GZY/ref=sr_1_52?crid=2S0LAVVKFWRCG&keywords=extended+valve+stems+for+rv&qid=1636147631&sprefix=rv+extended+valves%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-52 http://tire-man.iwvisp.com/products.html
Hank85713 11/05/21 10:37am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 07 E450 Class C rear air bags better handling while towing

You will need to play with pressure settings in both tires and airbags when you get them. We bought 1 year old winnebago aspect (class B+/C) and when we left to come home it had terrible handling (about 400+ miles worth). Tire shop would not put air in rear airbags and could not check inflate rear inners! Yes this was a major tire store! Anyhow got home and check and rear airbags were basically empty, tires were set to high psi reading except for inners. I have had airbags on several vehicles and have had to play with them all. Found that the front on rv need to run 55-60 and rears 65-75, airbags 55-60. Running OEM shocks (have new monroes but havent been able to install to high heat temps over summer). Anyhow as noted above the 80psi max is way too high for most for a good ride/handling. There was a magazine road test on the winnebago some years back and they were harsh on the handling but I cannot locate a copy of it anywhere. we run a light load with max weight around 14K, do not run full water tank (about 1/3d) and keep black/grey drained. So it will be up to you to experiment and Yes I do recommend airbags if none installed. posted another item but it has not been posted to the board. Happens often it seems. Anyhow if you do install airbags go for adding a built in compressor so you dont have to crawl around to add air and can also do on the fly to further help with your efforts. Stabilizer bars may help but really are not the cure all IMO.
Hank85713 10/06/21 02:00pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Steering problems w/ 30 ft Winnebago

Most of the above can be true, however there are things that you need to check first. Yes I own a 12 aspect. Check tire pressures, do not use the 75psi on sidewall or whatever is on door jamb. I run mine at 60-65 for fronts, 70 for rears. Depending on load what airbag pressures do you run? Again mine is 55-70 again depending on load. Have you weighed the rig mine comes in around 13500 we travel light. 1/3 tank water, empty black/grey tanks (all located over and back of rear axle). When 1st got ours it did wander but I had to experiment with the above settings to get it to stabilize. I have new shocks to install and I got a new steer stabilizer but havent gotten around to putting on since we are not going to travel again this year due to the virus. There was a road test back around 10-11 on the winnebago and these were also complained about, however I havent been able to find it since I read it years ago. PM me if you have questions
Hank85713 09/24/21 09:48am Class C Motorhomes
has anyone stayed at:

My daughter asked me about this place have never seen or been there (rv park). So need to find out if anyone has and how was the place? https://rvcoutdoors.com/garden-of-the-gods-rv-resort/ Thanks
Hank85713 09/21/21 10:25am RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Small Class A vs Large Class C

sounds as if the A's are what you are wanting. Most c's will not an island bed unless you get one in a slide. Also most c's lack big storage areas. We have a 28 ft winnebago, has a bed in slide for walk around (very tight on rear side, not a lot of storage space but adequate for what we have to carry. A's to me are too big for us. When we were looking the dealers pushed the small A's but I drove a school bus of various sizes and any A to me would not necessarily be fun to drive in most areas. Yes ok in rural areas but thats about it IMO. too much tail swing to worry about is main thing. Many rv parks have narrow roads and that is another thing in itself. The smaller c is like driving a van but still has its share of issues. So I would recommend a smaller A since that appears to be what you desire, ones in your price range out here are 15-20 years old or so. My BIL bought a 01 winnebago Adventurer DP just found out it has the cummins with the weak and cracked block and has had fuel issues which required new fuel pump. We suspect that is why he was able to get it cheap! He is also having AC issues with rear unit so no matter just get what fits your needs and happy hunting.
Hank85713 09/10/21 01:34pm Class C Motorhomes
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