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 > Your search for posts made by 'Huntindog' found 234 matches.

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RE: Question on changing leaf springs on 5'er

I put my entire trailer up on jack stands and did one side at a time. Seemed easier since I was replacing the equalizers etc that connect to both axles. A day to lift, day for each side then down made for three weekends. Mine was out of alignment due to sagging springs so once replaced all was good. Sagging leaf springs do not change the so called alignment on a trailer..... Unless one is sagging more than the others.
Huntindog 10/21/21 04:34pm Tech Issues
RE: Question on changing leaf springs on 5'er

I put my entire trailer up on jack stands and did one side at a time. Seemed easier since I was replacing the equalizers etc that connect to both axles. A day to lift, day for each side then down made for three weekends. Mine was out of alignment due to sagging springs so once replaced all was good.
Huntindog 10/21/21 04:33pm Tech Issues
RE: how to not destroy an alternator when charging LI batteries.

Hi all, The video offers solutions.This guy isn't all that bright, When an altenator is installed on a automobile, it is driven by the crankshaft pulley which is much larger. Usually a 4 to one ratio. So even at idle, it would be turning over 2000 rpm
Huntindog 10/21/21 04:24pm Tech Issues
RE: I want to run a microwave on an inverter

The problem with ANY lead acid battery is that the only time you will have a fully charged battery is on day one of a trip. This because LA batteries slow down on accepting charge as they get closer to full. To fully charge a LA battery takes a VERY long time, and it doesn't matter what the charging source is..... Even a DC to DC charger cannot do it. The solution is to change the batteries to Lifpo chemistry
Huntindog 10/20/21 06:57pm Tech Issues
RE: Which Hitch do I buy?

As for those advocating that you not use a WD hitch at all as you have a stout truck.... I have been towing with 1 ton crewcab long bed dually diesels since 2000. I can tell the difference in handling that a single washer or chain link makes in a lashup. I like my lashups the best they can be... Not just good enough. There have been some occasions when I was glad I did not settle for less. So although your truck may be capable of towing without a WD hitch, it will be better with one. Others may have different expectations as to what is acceptable.. It is a free country. YMMV
Huntindog 10/17/21 07:18pm Travel Trailers
RE: Which Hitch do I buy?

My Truck: 2018 Ram 2500 diesel 4X4. Crew, short bed. I'm working with a Dealer for the purchase of a new 26' Grand Design TT that weighs around 5000lbs and 7000 GVWR. I need a recommendation for the hitch. I heard Reese was a good one. I would also like to have a little overkill in the event that we trade up to a larger trailer in the future. Thanks for you help.Overkill when selecting a WD hitch is not desireable. The hitch bars are working springs that need to be strong enough to transfer the correct amount of weight, yet weak enough to bend when needed such as entering driveways etc. So stronger than needed is bad...In fact some TT manufacturers actually state limits on how strong the bars can be based on the size of the TTs frame. WD hitches are like shoes. It you are a size 10, then a size 13 won't work very well. The right size is the right size. Buy the size you need now. If at some point in the future you get a larger TT, then sell your old hitch and buy the right one for your new TT.
Huntindog 10/17/21 07:03pm Travel Trailers
RE: Friction Sway Bar

When reading threads like this one I am still a bit confused. Should I use one or two? This one is easy. Read the directions That come with it. They all state what the limitations of a single control are. There is very little difference in the recomendations between brands. BTW, I have owned 3 different sized EQUALIZERS over the years, and also a single, and a double friction bar setup. The all performed well. I still think that the friction bars are the best choice for newbies. Simply because most newbies will not get the setup right, which is very important with the integreated SC hitches.... But one can miss the setup by a mile with the friction bars, and still get some benefit from it.
Huntindog 10/11/21 02:26pm Travel Trailers
RE: Dicor self leveling lap sealant caused roof to ripple

I have had this happen. It will lay back down over time.
Huntindog 10/11/21 02:15pm Travel Trailers
RE: 2021 Ford Bronco

Over the years there has been constant bashing of GMs decision long ago to retire their SFAs..... Now that Ford is leaning in this direction, a lot of the same people think it is the greatest thing since sliced bread...... OK boys, welcome to the 21st century.
Huntindog 10/09/21 04:19am Tow Vehicles
RE: Suggestion needed ASAP

This thread really makes me mad. I have paid a LOT of school district taxes over the years.... And I see that the schools have done a terrible job of instilling reading comprehension in their students.:E
Huntindog 09/19/21 08:45pm Travel Trailers
RE: DC current draw at rest, 2.3 amps with nothing on

My Momentum idles at about 1.65 amps.
Huntindog 09/13/21 09:08pm Tech Issues
RE: On top

Actually it depends on your RV. "most" but not all, are designed to be walked on.. Especially the ones with a factory ladder. If you are in doubt. Call the manufacturer of your camper. They will tell you in just a minute.Don't count on the ladder to mean it is OK. My first new TT had a ladder....Yet the dealer and the manual both said not to walk on it.
Huntindog 09/05/21 03:00pm Travel Trailers
RE: Air Shocks or Air Bags on TT

Then you start having issues Biggest issue is the propane refrigerator. Can not be more than 3-4% off level or it will be damaged over time... As far as digging down to level.....Every place I've ever camped frowns upon that...and it would be difficult in a highway rest area....:)I think you misread it.... He said that leveling by that much with that method would cause issues with the steps, etc..... The fridge would be level even with those issues,. And I have never seen anyone level an RV in a rest area... Typically they are pretty flat, and camping is not allowed. I always dig to level.... But I always boondock far away from others... Nobody to frown except an occasional coyote.
Huntindog 09/05/21 02:35pm Travel Trailers
RE: Air Shocks or Air Bags on TT

A few additional comments to my original post.... The trailer I have is a Forest River 19RR TOY HAULER.....The load varies immensely...with water and motorcycle, upwards of 1000# +/-....The triler has a payload rating of somewhere around 3000#... I've already replaced the equalizer with Dexter EZ-Flex equalizers and all wet bolts with bronze bushings ....HUGE IMPROVEMENT! This trailer has already broken two leaf springs. And both times with no motorcycle aboard. I'm convinced the factory springs were not rated properly. Three weeks ago I replaced all the springs, brakes, bearings and races....and welded on new spring perches and flipped the axle to below the springs, giving me more room for my airbags/air shocks. With both devices I can simply run them at 10psi and they will have no effect on the original suspension. And using them to quickly level the trailer at a rest stop for an overnight would be a tremendous benefit. This trailer already has a heavy duty Vair compressor and 5 gallon air tank so the issue of "air" is no issue. Still need to decide on air shocks or air bags......I'm absolutely going to do one or the other.I am VERY interested in what you do. I have been considering bags myself. Mainly for the ability to raise the trailer for ground clearance when needed getting into a boondocking site. I cannot raise it permanently as it is already at 13'6", and bridges could be an issue.
Huntindog 09/02/21 06:10pm Travel Trailers
RE: The price of new trucks is beyond comprehension!

MY son in law has a 2022 F250 Lariat in production as I type this. The MSRP is $78,230.00.. SELLING price is $69,750.00.. THESE trucks have gotten WAY expensive ! ! Used vehicles are real expensive now too. It is all relative.
Huntindog 09/01/21 07:02pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Adding scissor jacks for side to side leveling "border=0" For Full-Size Image. The few lines of surface welds induce some heat stress to the beam, which then bends up. This helps to end with a someone flat beam when load is applied and axles put underneath to push up. It does NOT add any strenght. It only changes the bending line (crooked before weight, somewhat raight when loaded 'dry', somewhat crooked again when additional load is added (full tanks, food, storage, stuff on the rear bumper, stuff on the A frame, etc). There may ONE very special/rare load condition when this beam is STRAIGHT. For practical terms, it will NEVER be straight. The amount of bending depends ONLY on a) the stiffness of the frame (fixed, and NOT influenced by the pre bending) b) the load and load distribution. Lifting at the 2 rear corners (the front is already lifted at the corner, the A frame (front jack) lifts the 2 front corners, and all the static bending is/has taken place every time you put your front jack down, or hook up your trailer to the car), will add equal (but in reality less) than the normal static flex. Less, because A the axle is not in the middle of the lifting point and be the load is heavier on the front section ('tonque weight'). So lifting on the rear corners will ADD static bending (in the opposite direction. NO QUESTION. The AMOUNT of bending could be the range (but opposite direction of the 'empty load' (the weight of the chassis itself, plus weight of the empty 'house'). In my case: 4400 lb weight empty, assumpe 2200 on 'rear' half. Lets call this the 'flat static' (assuming pre bend frame to make it 'flat' with this load). Now adding 120 gal of fluid (black, grey , fresh water) (on earth, roughly 1000 lbs) near the rear bumper. That ADDS 50% to the static bend. Now we bounce it over a speed bump at 3 g. That is now an additional 2 g or 2000 lb near the rear bumber for a total of 3000 lbs. That is 1.5 TIMES the bending amount of the static 'assume flat with pre bent beam). Now if we push UP the rear end of the empty trailer, that is 2200 lbs. This will result in roughly 50% LESS bending as the 'bump' with full tanks'. Ditto, if the trailer is full (here: 7500 lbs, or 3750 on the rear portion), if we lift the rear, the bending is about equal to the amount exerienced during every 3G bump no the road (but only done once every time to jack it up, so say one per vacation, vs xxxx during driving). Just some perspective on the issue. Your perspective...... Why won't you try the experiment I suggested? Perhaps you do not want to see another perspective? As for it not adding any strength, see the exerpt from my previous google quote: Cambering beams allow smaller beams to be used in place of larger beams to support the same load.May 29, 2016. (that is a very cost effective way of making an RV lighter.) I am done here. It is obvious that you will not be detered. As always, your money, your choice
Huntindog 08/29/21 05:04pm Travel Trailers
RE: Adding scissor jacks for side to side leveling

It certainly is what cambering is. Do some googling as I did. There is more than one way to do it. But I found articles of some really big semi type stuff being cambered by welding. In addition at one time, Northwoods RV had a picture of welds on one of their frames stating it was cambering for more strength. I also toured the Palomino Sabre factory back in 2010 when I bought my Sabre. I took a lot of pics. One of them shows the cambering welds. I have that pic, but I haven't posted a pic in so long, I forgot how to do it And welding certainly does change the way a length of steel feels. I tried it and felt it it myself. If you still don't believe me.... Break out a welder and see for yourself. Flatbed semi's, the beams are often cambered. If you see them running empty, the curve is easy to see but they are built for many tons of load. Far different from your average travel trailer. I've seen a fair number of travel trailer frames and not seen least not enough to visually see anything. They will sometimes reinforce where the axles connect but that's different from cambering. I suspect what you are confusing is looking at the strength of flat sheets vs an I or box beam working together but that's different from cambering. Google has a LOT of info on it. This was the first hit: People also ask What is a cambered chassis? In the structural engineering world, camber is known as having a slight arc or bend induced in a beam. Positive camber is when there is a hump in the center of the beam, with its shape resembling a frown. ... Cambering beams allow smaller beams to be used in place of larger beams to support the same load.May 29, 2016. Have you broken out your welder yet to see for yourself? I encourage you to do so. All you need are a couple pieces of fairly long angle steel. I used 16 ga 1.5" x 2" x 10'. One you run weld beads on similar to the picture I posted of my Sabres frame. the other one is just your baseline piece. Run the beads and then compare the straightness, and feel of the cambered piece to the uncambered piece.This is the pic of some cambering welds on my 2010 Sabre: "border=0" For Full-Size Image. Do this and then get back to me.
Huntindog 08/29/21 04:04pm Travel Trailers
RE: Adding scissor jacks for side to side leveling

This is some of the cambering on my 2010 Sabre. the cambering wasn't the focus of the pic, I just happened to capture it. THe Northwoods RV pic I spoke or earlier Had a different pattern. It was like this: ////// "border=0" For Full-Size Image.
Huntindog 08/28/21 07:09pm Travel Trailers
RE: Adding scissor jacks for side to side leveling

As said by HDog, frames are cambered and you really shouldn’t be screwing around with that. No plans on screwing around with the frames, or change anything if they are cambered (need to check, haven't noticed; if so, would only be in the axle area, certainly not forwards/backward from there).I would not be certain of that. They can induce cambering wherever they feel it is needed.
Huntindog 08/28/21 04:47pm Travel Trailers
RE: Adding scissor jacks for side to side leveling

But the design expects force applied upward from the suspension and tongue. That force increases and decreases, but the location does not change. Nope! The bad thing about gravity: it works everywhere. The force is NOT induced just at the tongue and suspension. There is mass (force) induced into the frame at any point along the length of the house (as long as there is gravity). Likely not linear (more mass close to axles, since water tank, fridge, etc are often placed there). But not always (and more than likely, the manufacturer uses the SAME FRAME for the various floor plans, sometimes with fridge in the rear, or in my case the heavy (when full) black water tank all the way at the rear of the chassis. Now that (lets say 200 kg) weight WILL put a lot of dynamic force onto the chassis all the way at its end. Just for kicks using this number (published in a paper on speed bumps): "In one case, driving 32 MPH over a standard 1.5 foot long/roughly 4 inch high speed bump produced a maximum g-force of about 2.2.(gravity included). (Measurements were taken from inside the vehicle).". So 200 kg mass with 2.2 g (rounded to 22 g/m2 acceleration) will give us 4400 N force (or about 880 lbs weight). That is the force JUST FROM THE FULL BLACK WATER TANK going over speed bump. With that said: there is flex (any force even the smallest will flex a beam (unless it is infinitely stiff). There is a lot of DYNAMIC force causing flex. There is static flex. There is DIFFERENT flex from model to model (assumption: manufacturer uses the same frame for various floor plans (and gives a hoot about the more or less flex). Putting a jack at the corners CAN actually reduce the flex (compensating the static flex from the 'house' weight). But that is all theoretical since I don't have the frames bending stiffness (and not even the frame's beam dimension to calculate the stiffness).I am sure that they use the same frame for many models. But the cambering is likely different.
Huntindog 08/28/21 04:43pm Travel Trailers
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