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 > Your search for posts made by 'Huntindog' found 234 matches.

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RE: TS-30 transfer switch failure.

The original transfer switch work fine for a while but failed over time. It started making a clicking noise and then failed after a month. I am living in this and it is important that I get it fixed and I cannot afford to pay a pro. Paying a pro would be cheaper than calling the fire dept. Seriously, though this isn't all of that bad a job, making a mistake on this can have dire consequences.
Huntindog 07/25/21 07:35pm Tech Issues
RE: Great Tow Capacity - Bad Payload Capacity... Increase PL?

So I have a 2016 Ram 2500 Megacab with the 6.7 Cummins. I love it. Great truck. It has plenty of tow capacity for us and our current trailer and possible future 5th Wheel upgrade at 16,936lbs. The problem is that the payload capacity is absolutely horrible at only 1637lbs!! We're looking to upgrade from our TT to a slightly larger (like 4 extra feet) 5th Wheel at some point, and after taking into account our family (people/pets) and what little cargo we carry in the truck, I'd need a pin weight of like 1000lbs to say within spec!! I checked... not gonna happen. That said, is there anything that can be done to increase the payload capacity? I can easily stay under the tow/trailer capacity, I just need to be able to increase the pin weight capacity. Like I said, I really like my truck. Would hate to have to up-size just to get a 5th wheel. Thanks!Another tow rating victum. You are not the first, and won't be the last. When it comes to towing an RV, the tow rating is a fictional advertising number. Everyone runs out of payload long before they would hit the tow rating number.... Now that you have discovered the truth, get a bigger truck with a lot of PAYLOAD.... If you have the payload..The tow rating will take care of itself
Huntindog 07/25/21 07:25pm Tow Vehicles
RE: parking on a slight driveway

hi all. ..haven't been on here in yrs ..my drive way has a small slope and wondering can you park a T/T a slope.kinda heard you have to keep it level for the compressors. do you need to keep it level ? and what can you do to keep it from moving down ? we where getting a t/t years ago but never did it, wife is thinking of getting on probably next yr,Chock all of the tires and then level it. My driveway is sloped, been doing this for 30 years.
Huntindog 07/25/21 07:11pm Travel Trailers
RE: [SOLVED] Buy if slide out is sluggish?

Lots of people talking about the battery. So the question is. Was it plugged into shore power? If it was. Then the battery is not the problem. It will work with a dead battery, or no battery if plugged to shore power. Not always. One of my TTs actually had a warning sicker next to the slide button stating that a battery was required for slide operation, The reason is simple. A slide can draw more amps than the convertor is capable of.
Huntindog 07/17/21 04:32am Tech Issues
RE: Poop in outside sink

I don't ever recall any sink being plumbed into a black water tank on a rv. Either something else is happening or it plumbed wrong. It's done on some floorplans with outside kitchens either because it was required to be done or the builder took the cheap route. In the case of Keystone RV they always take the cheap route and have always done so. This is one sheety situation is it not lol?When it comes to RVs,,,, the rule is, "there are no rules." From the factory my kitchen sink drained into the 1/2 bath black tank. I added a seperate grey tank for the kitchen sink
Huntindog 07/16/21 01:23pm Travel Trailers
RE: Watts needed

Just from being flat you would lose more than 6 watts out of 720. Then add heat loss. Heat loss might be a bit less with panels flat (not sun direct) so pretend you lose 5% instead of 10% 5% of 720 is 36 watts. Say 5% from being flat in June in Arizona for another 36 watts. panel output now 720 - 72 = 648w. If panels were 720 out and wiring loss is 2%, 2% of 720 is 14.4 watts. It just doesn't work out right. That 714 must be from something else. Whatever, your set-up is working. Not so sure about the readings for what is measuring what though.The way I see it, if your method of figuring is correct, there is only one explanation. The Aims panels are putting out more than their specs. Remember that they were more than the Jaboni controller could handle, even though they were just under it's specs. That would explain both issues.
Huntindog 07/07/21 07:02pm Tech Issues
RE: Watts needed

Almost there? The Victron showed 923w output? But that has only 720w of panels.I guess I typed it wrong. The 923 was the total of both systems according to the Victron shunt Where was that 714 watts at?The Victron controller Controller output goes to load and remainder to battery. Any load is included in the controllers' output. Can we get the output of the Victron only and compare that with the 720? I don't believe it can be 714 out of 720. No way. That is what it said. I took a screenshot of the screen. One possibility is that the Aims panels are exceeding their specs. That could explain why they were too much for the Jaboni controller See the voltage loss co-efficient per degree of C temp above 25C on your panel specs. Usually panel is about 20-25C above 25c ambient (50C when ambient is 25C is worth about a 10% loss in watts due to lower voltage--amps stay up despite the heat-even go a bit higher)You are losing me here.... I am not so sure that the Aims specs are accurate at this point.
Huntindog 07/07/21 06:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Watts needed

DP
Huntindog 07/07/21 06:26pm Tech Issues
RE: Watts needed

Thanks for the additional info. I am really confused as you will see, but moving right along--- Before starting you had a load of say 33 watts. WAG battery at 12.5v, so load was 2.6 amps.The shunt also reads amps, and that is about right. Now you enabled solar and got 923 watts at the shunt. Battery voltage spiked from now being charged so WAG 13.5v? So 923/13.5 = 68.3 amps of which 2.6 was load.The shunt will go negative with the amps, and it will calculate how long the batteries will last at the present rate of discharge. I am not clear whether you should add the -33 load to the 923 or if the 33 is part of the 923 the way that is displayed. the negative 33 is the draw with no solar output. As solar comes on line, it climbs to zero and turns positive, So the negative reading needs to be added to the positive to get the output from the solar. Need help there. The 33 was at 12.5 batt, but the 923 was at 13.5? If that even matters--not sure!The victron showed 923 watts, and 67.79 amps @13.61 volts I am lost on what shows as total controllers' output and what shows at the shunt. Normally, the shunt shows what the battery is getting, not what the loads are getting. Part of what to do with that 33 watts. The 714w is output from the Victron controller? so is part load, but with two solar sets, how much of the 33 is in the 714 and how much Jamboni? (If that matters)That is an interesting question that I had not thought of.... I guess both systems probably contribute to erasing the negative,,, but it is such a trivial amount,,, I don't think it matters much. As you see I am not clear on what you have there! Seems like it cranks out the amps though. You must be pleased it all worked out. Yes I am pretty happy with it, and already looking towards adding the additional string of 3x 120 watt panels to the victron, for a total system of 1380 watts... Then I am done. Just gotta replenish some funds first.
Huntindog 07/07/21 04:56pm Tech Issues
RE: Watts needed

The solar controller usually has a display showing output amps and battery voltage. Some also have input info. Is this one of those smart shunt, bluetooth deals? If from the shunt then that would be amps to the battery after any loads are taken care of, but I don't know how those work exactly. Might help to explain the set-up and a link to the Victron where you are getting the readings so we are talking the same language. It takes about two minutes or so for the panels to heat right up when first put in the sun. Could your Pmax reading have been when they were first exposed to the sun? I doubt that 99% efficiency for 24-12. Perhaps for 12-12 or 24-24. Are there efficiency curves for your controller? Ones I have seen show lower efficiency -mid 90s- the bigger the voltage diff between in and out for the buck converter in the controller.I have the 250/100 ve can model, I also have the smart bluetooth shunt.https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-SmartSolar-charge-controller-MPPT-250-70-up-to-250-100-VE.Can-EN.pdf Both the shunt and the controller transmit data to my phone. You may remember that I also have the factory Jaboni system. So the shunt shows what is being supplied by both systems, and the victron controller app shows what is happening with the Victron/AIMS 120 watt panels only. When I got the 714 watt reading, the total of both systems read 923 watts, and it was negative 31-35 before enabling the solar. That means that the total solar system was putting out over 950 watts.... The total of both systems panels is 1020 watts. They are all flat mounted, It was around noon and I am in Phoenix AZ, so it was hot already before the panels were enabled... (I have a breaker box with breakers for both systems.
Huntindog 07/07/21 02:34pm Tech Issues
RE: Watts needed

Those Victron terms don't mean anything to me, such as Pmax. Please use volts and amps and where you measured those. The easiest measurement is output watts, where the controller will have a reading of battery voltage and the solar amps output (not to be confused with amps to the battery!!!) Multiply those to get your output watts. Pick a number for your controller's efficiency--say 97% --then now you have your approx input watts. Compare that with your panel watts rating. If you do that with the panel aimed at high sun your input watts should be less than panel rating by about 10% for panel heating and another 2% or whatever for wiring loss. If panels flat, then you can get a rough idea of the loss there from your latitude and the day of the year. P max is the panels maximum watts that the controller saw. The efficency is over 99%, according to the specs. I have no way to measure the solar amp output.
Huntindog 07/07/21 03:00am Tech Issues
RE: Watts needed

"I am not so sure of your figures. I just finished an upgrade. In my initial testing I was getting 714 watts from an array that had a max of 720 watts. Using your method, I should only be able to get 590 watts." To sort this out, need your volt and amp measurements at the input and output terminals of the solar controller while it is in Bulk (which is when it is in MPPT) My example also assumes the panel is aimed at a high sun with clear sky. Be even fewer amps output with panel flat on roof, eg. It is hard to get the input amps to the controller, so if no clamp ammeter just see what the input voltage is. It should be whatever the controller decides is Vmp at the time.I took a pic of my Victron screen during the intial test: Pmax-714W Vmax-60.14 battery max-13.69 min- 12.76 I have not had time to mess with a volt/ohm meter yet.
Huntindog 07/06/21 05:38pm Tech Issues
RE: Watts needed

You could use #6 and trim the last 1/4" slightly, to fit the controller terminal. The thing I see on the photo, with (looks like) 1" long bare metal that will protrude outside the controller casing - doesn't look safe.Some shrink tubing would fix that up.
Huntindog 07/06/21 04:07am Tech Issues
RE: Watts needed

Your panel specs for amps are for the input to the controller. The amps "size" of the controller is for its output. That is what you are missing. Read this again. A 20 amper will just run what one of those 285s can do, so at least a 40 amper would be needed. I would choose a 40 instead of going to a 60 because the panels will get hot in the sun and be about 10% down in watts from that heating, so that keeps you under what a 40 can do. Also if mounted flat they will not get full sun, so that keeps the watts down too. Tracer makes a decent 40 amp MPPT that would do at a good price. Lots of other choices with various features and prices. MPPT uses output watts / battery voltage for amps out (which go to loads first and any left over go to the battery) 2 x 285 = 570w less 10% for heat = 513w minus say 2% wiring loss panels to controller, so now 503w input to the controller. controller efficiency maybe 96% so output watts = 483w so picking three battery voltages: 483/12 = 40.25 amps 483/13 = 37 amps 483/14= 34.5 amps I am not so sure of your figures. I just finished an upgrade. In my initial testing I was getting 714 watts from an array that had a max of 720 watts. Using your method, I should only be able to get 590 watts.
Huntindog 07/05/21 02:59am Tech Issues
RE: Electric over hydraulic - anyone using them ?

My new Momentum has disc brakes. The difference is HUGE! I will never go back to drums. They are 1950s technology. A relic of the past. And I will note, that you cannot get parts for them at Autozone either. The calipers are all based on old GM designs for Kodiak/Titan brakes. If those are who make the ones on your Momentum, you certainly can at least get all caliper components (including entire calipers, pins, seals and pads) from Autozone/NAPA/Oreilly/etc. But you have to use a cross-reference and not just tell them they're for a GD Momentum... Other parts, like the hub assemblies, especially if integrated on your particular model, and the controller/pump assembly, aren't going to be stocked. But those are probably less likely to require rushed parts for maintenance/repair. I may have something different than what you are thinking of. My 8000# Dexter axles have Dexter 4 piston calipers. They are not the sliding design. They bolt on to the axles as a solid one piece unit. Sounds nice. Titan/Kodiak are big for aftermarket. Dexter bought them a couple years ago, but looks like they're separate product lines for now. Maybe if Dexter continues to produce the ones you have, increased adoption will drive increased parts info/availability.I will add that my brakes design cannot be very old, as the rotors have the inductor ring for antilock brakes.
Huntindog 07/01/21 10:48pm Travel Trailers
RE: Electric over hydraulic - anyone using them ?

My new Momentum has disc brakes. The difference is HUGE! I will never go back to drums. They are 1950s technology. A relic of the past. And I will note, that you cannot get parts for them at Autozone either. The calipers are all based on old GM designs for Kodiak/Titan brakes. If those are who make the ones on your Momentum, you certainly can at least get all caliper components (including entire calipers, pins, seals and pads) from Autozone/NAPA/Oreilly/etc. But you have to use a cross-reference and not just tell them they're for a GD Momentum... Other parts, like the hub assemblies, especially if integrated on your particular model, and the controller/pump assembly, aren't going to be stocked. But those are probably less likely to require rushed parts for maintenance/repair. I may have something different than what you are thinking of. My 8000# Dexter axles have Dexter 4 piston calipers. They are not the sliding design. They bolt on to the axles as a solid one piece unit.
Huntindog 06/30/21 02:30pm Travel Trailers
RE: Electric over hydraulic - anyone using them ?

My new Momentum has disc brakes. The difference is HUGE! I will never go back to drums. They are 1950s technology. A relic of the past. And I will note, that you cannot get parts for them at Autozone either.
Huntindog 06/29/21 05:43pm Travel Trailers
RE: WFCO Converter/Charger won't go to Float

After 72 hrs with no use of TT, still at 13.6, never went to float.And it never will. BTDT and bought the T shirt. Including my set of ruined 6 volt batteries. I then got a Boondocker converter from Best Converters. It performed perfectly. As you now know,13.6 especially in the summer will boil the batteries dry pretty fast. That was the reason I dumped my WFCO. It also never went into bulk.... I really didn't care about that as it won't ruin batteries as fast as the constant 13.6 will.
Huntindog 06/28/21 04:25pm Tech Issues
RE: Whats makes the WFCO jump to 14.4?

Wonder if my WFCO is starting to go bonkers. Yesterday it went into 14.4v charging mode. I can hear my fans get louder and then confirm voltage with a small voltage display. No biggie. Today i heard my fan turn loud. Voltage display showed 14.4 which is not normal since it just ran a 14.4v mode yesterday. Only lasted 10 seconds. Then again right now it just went to 14.4 again. Been stuck there a few mins. I dont have any batteries hooked up. Isnt the 14.4 mode a timed dealio? On a schedule? What you have there is a Unicorn... A WFCO that actually changes modes... There are quite a few of us that would like to study this rare specimum. It is so rare that most of us thought it could not possibly exist.
Huntindog 06/26/21 06:58pm Tech Issues
RE: Smaller Holding Tanks...What to do when NO hookups??

Never heard of so much compromising to go camping.....flush toilet with dish water, shower with a baby wipe. How about dishes with black tank ? Lol Sorry RVs can vary from having a 4gal cassette toilet only to a 15-100gal black tank plus a 15-100gal gray tank. My Momentum has a claimed 104 black, 104 grey,155 fresh.... And to top it off, it actually holds more in all tanks than claimed.... I measure it when new, so I know where I stand. Have done this on all of my RVs, and this is the first one to exceed the claims. All of the others fell short of spec.
Huntindog 06/26/21 01:49pm Travel Trailers
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