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RE: How to remove/prevent standing water at campsite???

Set a laser up, find the low spot.Or just observe how the water recedes. Practical low point is probably already known. Years of pulling a enddump, I could likely eyeball the slope to find the low spot. OP worried about digging in wrong place. I am not installing/using a sump pump. If I lived there permanently, that course of action might be more feasible. From where I sit you have limited options; 1)Witch about it. 2)Move 3)Divert the water before it drains to your site 4)Fill area to raise grade. 5)Install a gravity flow drainage system 6)Pump water out of area. 1 is what you want to stop. 2&4 You don't want to do. 3&5 a lot of work, and much in areas you don't control. 6, once the bucket is in place, and water collects rent a 2 inch trash pump for a couple of hours. Your feet get wet on the way to get pump, and while you put suction hose in, but water is soon gone.
JRscooby 09/18/20 11:21am General RVing Issues
RE: FORD F-150 AXLE RATIO CHOICE

Assuming you don't exceed the ratings...it will only put more strain on the drive shaft and rear transaxle gears but they are rated for that extra load. Everything else will see identical strain levels. - The axles past the pumpkin have no clue what is providing the torque. - The transmission will simply select a different gear to keep the strain the same and the engine won't know the difference as the overall gear ratio will be pretty much the same. It's only if you exceed the max rating for the rear end that it becomes an issue. Assuming you don't exceed the ratings, it might not matter, but the stress is not all the same. Trans in lowest gear, converter at stall. Higher speed gears takes more torque on driveshaft to turn wheels. To apply this torque, motor mounts must resist the engine rotating in frame. Frame/body must hold the mounts in place against extra force. Driveline and gears carry the extra force. What most RVers will be most likely to see is the extra heat in transmission fluid because of extra slip in the converter. I bet the take off from stop has more to do with increase in ratings than anything about on the highway.
JRscooby 09/18/20 10:48am Travel Trailers
RE: How to remove/prevent standing water at campsite???

Instead of multiple smaller holes I have used a plastic trash can with holes in the side, set in a hole with gravel around the sides, and a pressure treated lid I made with a drain attached to the lid by a short piece of PVC. I put a little gravel around the drain to prevent dirt from washing in. Worked great and could handle and disperse a good deal of water in a downpour. Dave Fair point. My issue with digging one big hole is that if I choose the wrong spot or that spot does not absorb/drain water very well, than I am out that time and money. I'm hard of understanding; How do you not pick the right spot? Set a laser up, find the low spot. Bury a bucket so the brim is below grade. Put a cover on it, that will let water in. A bird bath or something to mark location, keep you off it. When your lake forms, move cover, drop pump pickup in bucket run 'til standing water is gone over the hill.
JRscooby 09/18/20 08:54am General RVing Issues
RE: FORD F-150 AXLE RATIO CHOICE

Everybody is talking about no difference at highway speeds. But the high speed gears will put more strain everything when starting the load.
JRscooby 09/18/20 08:26am Travel Trailers
RE: Black tank welding?

New tanks go in the range of $300 and I still would have to DIY the pipe flanges. I know plastic welding is tricky, but in the past I was very good with welding rods and welding torches, so I am willing to try new trade. I have not done much of it, but welding plastic is pretty much like welding with a torch. Heat the material until it starts to flow, and flow in the rod. Instead of flame, use a stream of hot air. I would want to practice on other things made out of same type material before I did the tank.
JRscooby 09/17/20 04:24am Truck Campers
RE: How to remove/prevent standing water at campsite???

If you go with a pump you will want a well at the lowest point so the water will collect around the pickup.
JRscooby 09/16/20 02:06pm General RVing Issues
RE: Anyone pulling over 12K with new Ford 7.3 Gasser?

I would still like to see a side by side comparison of engine braking, same displacement gas/diesel exhaust brake. I know the diesel without the add-on has almost nothing, so it would be the difference restricting the air in compare to restricting air out. Gas = downshift. You will still need to use brakes on and off to maintain speed. Diesel = You need to take a test drive! "Back when" with my 1985 Ferd diesel - there was no compression braking. A downshift to a lower gear was necessary. Exhaust brakes were optional on RAM trucks with manual transmissions in 2005. With automatic trans in 2006. After that, like the poster says - standard equipment. No need to use the (hydraulic) brakes on a downhill - except for a complete stop. BTW - HDTs (Heavy Duty Trucks) have had "Jake Brakes" for years - including 3 stage. Yes - a Jake Brake (HDT) and an EB (LDT) -some mfg by "Jacobs"- are two different animals that achieve the same excellent results. ~ Sometime in the mid '80s I swore I would never by another gas engine if I expected to gross over 50,000 lbs. About the same time I decided I would never put a bed on a truck that did not have a jake. I do have a understanding of the abilities of the engines. My 1693 Cat had more go and more whoa than any 855 CID Cummins I was around. My 3406E had more go and whoa than the N14s I worked with. All of them, the driver had to downshift to keep jake slowing. But none of the diesels ever would slow a load if the jake was off. Gas engine, normal operation, you control the amount of air going in. Load pushing engine, close throttle, restrict air into engine, the load slows. Diesel, a add-on restricts the exhaust, air flowing out of engine. Load push engine turn on exhaust brake, the load slows. What I have never seen is to like sized engines, same load, same gears, same grade, compare the whoa.
JRscooby 09/16/20 01:59pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: smoking diesel exhaust

Just cause it smokes don’t mean it’s broke:B That pickup should be impounded, sold at auction to somebody that agrees to repair it before use. The owner should be fined to the point he and his family are living in a grocery cart. I could not agree more. How come do diesel pickup drivers think they can delete their engines and ignore the laws the rest of us should obey. And, a lot of over-fueling is done on purpose for those who want more HP and aren't concerned what they/others breath. When I first started hauling a old hand told me "Put on what you want to haul, but never go over unless you can step with it" Back then you where much more likely to get caught with a overload if you where the slowest truck. We would put more fuel until we would get a light smoke WFO and under load. Heavy smoke, like in the pic, the engine was lugging. The drive by wire engines don't need to put out heavy smoke,
JRscooby 09/16/20 04:24am Class A Motorhomes
RE: What to make of this......

Load the tools. Once away and safe, notify local authorities of the danger. Then contact your lawyer to get paid for work done.
JRscooby 09/15/20 09:08am Around the Campfire
RE: smoking diesel exhaust

Just cause it smokes don’t mean it’s broke:B That pickup should be impounded, sold at auction to somebody that agrees to repair it before use. The owner should be fined to the point he and his family are living in a grocery cart.
JRscooby 09/15/20 07:42am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Foolish Things We’ve Done as Kids

Yes, and a 6 has more power than the old ones. But a knew 4 cyl will not have the power of a new V-8. I once paid $35 for a Pinto wagon, for winter transportation. Engine had a bad miss. Tuned up, still miss. Pulled the cam cover, saw the tube that oiled cam was plugged, the back 3 lobes gone. Cleaned the tube so engine would not lock. Only ran on 2 cyl, but always started. Would not spin a tire on ice, worked to go 25, but much warmer than MC. Spring, sold it for scrap, over $20
JRscooby 09/12/20 03:52pm Around the Campfire
RE: Foolish Things We’ve Done as Kids

One boy = one brain. 2 boys = 1/2 brain. 3 boys = no brain! That was a comment my wife’s grandma used. She raised boys! This is the base of my idea the best first car for any teenager is reg cab 4 cyl stick shift small pickup. 1st, assume they will wreck. Body on frame is a plus when that happens. 2nd small engine increases probability of lower speed when wreck happens. The stick shift means must pay more attention to driving, helps reduce chance of wreck. But most important, think back to your teenage years; Every time you got in trouble, or got away with something, there was 3-5 of you in the car. Small cab stick shift, can't get below that half brain level.
JRscooby 09/12/20 08:39am Around the Campfire
RE: Weighing at Cat Scales

Substantially cheaper re-weighs is a function of why truckers use their scales. They may need to redistribute the load to get all the axle groups within the legal limits (overload tickets start in the 4 figure range). So if they miss on the first pass, they go adjust the load and then re-weigh until they get within limits. CAT has a guarantee that they will assist in the court case if you get a ticket after using their services. I think you have the order wrong. (I know you are wrong on the price of overload fines. I have paid more than a few in the '4 figure range, but most where a few hundred) The cheap re-weigh is a plus, and I have often used it. (Company rig, 1 load took 12 re-weighs the first time we moved 1 load) With my tractor and trailer I could tell within a 100 lbs what was on each pair of axles by looking at the pressure gauges on suspension. But 1 fight because of state scales off convinced me go across the Cat, or go around the state, if close. I suppose, if you drive a short wheel base SUV towing a 15ft travel trailer, you might run into spacing problems getting the load spread over 3 platforms laid out for commercial trucks but full size trucks towing 25ft+ trailers won't typically be an issue. Worst case pull over and look at the scale before using it if you aren't sure. Short bed, reg cab pickup pulling a 12 ft pop-up, I had to stop as soon as steer was on front platform to keep trailer on the right one. One issue, if nobody uses the scale for a while it will shut off, and none of my axles where heavy enough to turn it on. Operator had me pull up so I had 2 on front, then back into position. Most places that buy/sell bulk by truckload will have a scale. And most would be willing to "weigh" your RV. But if you watch them certified, there is a expectation the truck will be near center of scale when weighed. When you are checking axles, you are working at the end. I have pulled steer on, then tag, drives, trailer to get gross, then dropped axles off 1 at a time and the numbers always said different end to end. If stop with only front axle on, scale reads 19,500, pull whole rig on, get a gross of 130,000 then pull the front off scale reads 109,000 how much does the front axle weigh? Now a RV will never get into this kind of numbers, but if they don't match you can't know any more than just a guess.
JRscooby 09/12/20 06:01am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Weighing at Cat Scales

1st pass WDH spring bars attached shows you how the weight is distributed between the trailer and the trucks 2 axles. 2nd pass no spring bars shows how the trailer loads the rear axle of the truck and lightens the front because of the tongue weight which you can find from the 3rd pass. 3rd pass truck only. To find tongue weight subtract the 3rd pass from the trucks weight you found with the second pass. That difference is the tongue weight. You can determine how much weight the WDH is distributing by looking at your front axle weight of just the truck alone and when you have the spring bars connected. I like no more than a 100lb difference between truck alone and truck with WDH spring bars connected for the front axle. Tells you what the weight distributing part of the hitch is doing. Very useful if you are trying to dial in the correct tension on the bars. If the tension is too light, it may be distributing very little to the front axle and that would show up as a having almost the same front axle weight with and without the bars tensioned down. The only numbers that making a pass with bars loose can let you calculate that you can't get from the other 2 passes is the TW when not hooked, and what percentages is transferred to steer and trailer. The only way to change the percentages steer/trailer is change wheelbase ratio. If you can't change it, do you need to know it? Tongue weight needs to stay in the range when bars are in place. Add the weights marked as 'steer' and 'drive' when hooked up, compare to gross of TV alone, you have the weight of the trailer the TV is carrying, the definition of TW. Old school thinking was when loading a truck you always wanted your steering to carry part of the load. Towing a TT behind a Vista Cruiser, always put enough tension on the bars to mash front down too. Sometime in the safety evolution of pickups that idea way lost. From what I read, nowadays they only want the spring bars to return the front back to what you have with MT truck.
JRscooby 09/12/20 04:59am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Weighing at Cat Scales

If you are doing a bumper pull with a WDH, it's a good idea to do a 3rd weigh (again $2.50) with the tension released from the bars. I have seen this advice many times but have never understood what useful info is gained
JRscooby 09/11/20 07:03am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Fed up with tire blow outs!!!

Congratulations on your purchase. Money well spent. Below is the inflation chart for your new tires. https://i.imgur.com/oAnHQuql.jpg On a vehicle you are riding in, I can see lower pressure for smooth ride. For a trailer, put them to max.
JRscooby 09/11/20 04:37am Travel Trailers
RE: Weighing at Cat Scales

Pull pm to scales with truck and trailer Truck front axle on forward platform Truck rear axle on middle platform Trailer axles on rearward platform Push call button....tell them 'Private' when they ask for ID number Clerk will trip scales.... Then drive off scales and go park trailer in parking lot. Drive truck onto the forward and middle platforms Push button----'Private' Reweigh Go park truck, go inside, pay and get your weigh tickets 1st ticket truck steer, drive axle and trailer axles plus total 2nd ticket truck steer, drive axle and total Difference between truck Front and rear axles with trailer and without trailer is trailer pin weight It's not just rear axle...check for any differences in front axle weights Depending on hitch placement in truck bed front axle weight could be same, could be less, could be more My hitch is set 2" forward of rear axle center line and this transfers 150# to front axle when 5vr is hitched plus the weight added to rear axle So I add the 2 figures to get my pin weight -- 3080# = 22% pin weight on my 5vr When pull on for 2nd weigh, stop TV same place as first. Subtract 2nd gross from first, this will give you the weight of the trailer. The first weight slip will give you the weight on trailer axles. Subtract that from the calculated weight of the trailer will tell you how much weight the truck is carrying. The button is placed for easy reach by the driver of a class 8 truck. For me to reach it I open door, stand up on door sill while leaning on top of door. My weight is still split between same platforms.
JRscooby 09/11/20 04:26am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Effect of weight on braking for trucks.

You need to rethink the 62 in an 80 or know that it’s just a matter of time before someone runs into you. You’ll be just as dead when you go off the road whether you are the one driving slow or fast. I also don’t understand why 57 in a 65 makes sense when many of the back roads are 65 or more as well. It would be better to get off the main roads if you want to drive that slow. If you weren’t aware, it’s pretty common for people to drive 5 over. So, you are talking 85 vs 62. That drastically reduces the reaction time of the other drivers since you are traveling more than 25% slower than a lot of the traffic. Fwiw, the non interstate roads typically have better views and are usually more direct, so it would be a win for you to stay off the interstates. Still, if you are forcing people to pass on 2 lanes due to your dramatically slower speed, there is still the chance that you will be the cause of an accident on the slow roads if you drive even slower on the 2 lanes. Btw, I’m not saying drive 80 or 85. I’m simply reminding that the main cause of accidents on the interstates is the difference in speed, and the biggeest cause of accidents on backroads is passing. So, anything you can do to not contribute to those two issues would be good. Let's see, 85-62 is 23. Is it your opinion that most drivers can not miss a stopped car on a 4 lane road when driving 23 MPH? And the fault is the slow drivers?
JRscooby 09/10/20 07:41am Truck Campers
RE: Ford 7.3 v8

My father bought the first diesel Ford 9000 (the gas job would be a 900) dump truck where we worked in about 1971. Do you guys remember when the truck islands had the same number of gas and diesel pumps? When I got into dump trucking most of the Louisville cab Fords with gas engines where badged as LT 880. Most of the 900s I saw had lighter front axles and where set up as tractor. But if it said "Super Duty" there was 850 in VIN. I will never forget the first trip out of the quarry with the NTM 9000 with a 250 Cummins. The day before, with 427 GMC, pull the hill in 2+2. Top the hill, drop the auxiliary into direct, and let the air tank mufflers talk. Don't need brakes to hold 110,000 lbs until just before get to scale. That 855 CID 250 hp did much better on the up, but didn't hold snot on the down.
JRscooby 09/09/20 04:00pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Effect of weight on braking for trucks.

It should not be a surprise. A heavy load will greatly extend stopping distance and will be hard on brake life. Braking is one of the reasons to consider a diesel engine. My last service visit for my 2010 Ram 2500 was at over 70K miles. Almost all of those miles were with a camper and a total weight of over 13K pounds. A lot of the driving was in the mountain States out west. The service report showed I had over 50% of the original brake life remaining. I have never seen a report comparing the braking effect of same size engines, same gears, where 1 stops air flowing in, and the other the air flowing out.
JRscooby 09/09/20 02:36pm Truck Campers
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