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RE: Towing in snow?

I know what I'd do...I'd stay put until mid day, after road crews have had the time to scrape and sand, and the sun has had the opportunity to melt what is left. Than I'd travel, very slowly, anticipating a mile off into the distance. Exiting at truck stops to spend the night if I don't get far enough to find another RV park...which tend to be clustered every 200 miles along interstates. Finally, I'd find a place to stop early. Between 2pm and 4pm. Then use the generator for power if I can't find a RV park and tether the phone to my computer so I could get online, checking all the local news for weather reports. I've done snow travel in a RV before, and it's exhausting.
[email protected] 10/10/18 11:29am Towing
RE: Good Sam Reputation & Service

Good Sam has always been pretty remote and immune to customer complaints even back 15 years ago when I first got into RV'ing. From their staggering amount of junk mailings once you're on their list to their untrained roadside service call center, they just don't care what you think. And the CEO of Camping World (who is also the owner) says publicly that he wants nothing to do with fixing any RVs even the ones he sells. And that shows in the huge turn over of RV techs, the lack of training for the ones that remain, and the amazing amount of damage they do to many of the RVs brought in for service. Stay away. Never use your real address on anything GS or CW related.
[email protected] 10/10/18 11:01am Good Sam Club

Wow. I passed through there back in May this year and none of the toll booth information signs were on at any exit, and I was never directed into a toll booth as I traveled around the loop. I figured they hadn't started collecting yet? It is a nice road, but a bit far from the city in my mind, mainly because I've never been to Denver and wanted to get a better peek at the skyline, but the loop is too far away. But...question to the OP. Did the reader boards give you any idea that the entire loop route would end up costing that much? I went for miles on that loop before I found any signs indicating I was even ON a toll road, much less how much it was going to be.
[email protected] 10/10/18 10:36am Toy Haulers
RE: Help 2002 Georgetown starting probem----UPDATE

You can also speed things along by getting an external pump at Napa. Used for decades by race cars they are as good as the internal. No need to remove the internal in most cases. A local mobile RV tech should be able to install it. My diesel used an 8 GPM model. Required some brass plumbing to adapt the different port size to the hose size, and needed some new fuel hose, but Napa had all that. Worked fine for 12 years and never needed to drop the tank to get the old one out.
[email protected] 10/10/18 10:14am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Winter Storage in Minnesota

Healthy batteries don't generally need to be constantly or periodically charged to survive the winter if they are fully disconnected. What I did in Fairbanks, Alaska (average nightly temp -55F, average daily temp -20F), was disconnect the ground leads. Next spring I put them on the charger and topped them off, they were fine. Did that over 3 winters there. My battery compartment was lockable so I didn't even remove them from the RV battery compartment, just disconnected the grounds. The acid in the electrolyte keeps them from freezing...if they are healthy batteries. Batteries on their last legs can freeze but if you can keep a charger on them at all times, even they will survive the winter. I used one of those small Schmacker float chargers to do that one year. Used that weak battery for another 2 years (chassis batt) when I went back south.
[email protected] 10/09/18 10:55am Class A Motorhomes
Shameless Plug for a RV Shop...

Here in Burns, Oregon to visit my home base VA Clinic for my yearly inspection and once again visited The Truck Shop, in Hines, Oregon. Just a couple miles outside of Burns on the main road. I had them do my yearly Cat 3126e Diesel RV service again and it went fine. They changed the oil and filter, lubed the chassis, checked all fluid levels, and did all the regular stuff you'd expect. Fixed the sticking air tank water drain lanyards. The flat rate is $195 (hourly repair rate is $92) for that and I guess that included the oil because they didn't charge me extra for the 20 qts of 15W-40 Synthetic Blend oil. Rotella. Best to ask though. I did have them check a couple other things that added time and had them change the air filter (not sure when the last time it was changed) so my entire bill was $228 but I was happy with not having to do it myself. I had the air filter drop shipped to their shop ($108 for a Wix filter). The Truck Shop reviews... That link features my RV. Note that they do not have a web site and are unlikely to do so, so no way to email them presently. Funny. I really like this shop, Mike the owner is very knowledgeable about RVs. Corrie did the work on my rig and I appreciated that he listens and does a thorough job. Last year when I had some work done here there weren't any online reviews of the shop but now there are 3 (one of them is mine) by RV'ers and all are 4-5 stars. There's a nice RV park, The Burns RV Park in Burns I've stayed at before but this time in town, I'm staying at the Sands park in Hines. This park is less expensive ($22/night, $132/week) and closer to the shop. Only 10 spaces of which 6 are pull though, WES and most are 30 amp (my spot is 50 amp). Large dry camping area. No OTA TV or cable so satellite is the way to go. The owner let me work on the Wifi system so that's working pretty good now, but this is a CenturyLink DSL town so it's still not 'streaming' great. Trees aren't an issue if using satellite. Right across the highway from a golf course. $30 for a round with golf cart. Exhausting with a good workout as there are lots of par 4 & 5 holes. So if you're passing through eastern Oregon and need some RV work, might give the The Truck Shop in Hines a try.
[email protected] 10/08/18 10:32am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Where Do You Stay in Las Vegas

There's 3 RV parks right in or near downtown. Here's a link to the one at Circus Circus: RV Park
[email protected] 10/08/18 09:09am RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Water and your water tank

The RV water tanks are food grade. And as long as you don't have leaks, it's a closed system. Water doesn't go bad very quickly if ever though it might go stale so makes no difference if you fill the tank and leave it that way or not. Weeks or years later it'll still be fine. What ever is the most convenient for you and your situation is what you should do. I'd leave it full just so it's not something else I'd need worry about if I were in a hurry.
[email protected] 10/07/18 01:42pm Class A Motorhomes

Because of the issue with Li-Ion batteries overheating and bursting into flame when over charged, I'd say to slow charge when you can, and fast charge when you have too. Boondocking shouldn't make a difference unless you have solar, you might want/need to fast charge during sunny periods if the solar panel isn't putting out consistently due to cloudiness. JMO
[email protected] 10/07/18 09:38am Technology Corner
RE: AGS Coming On By Itself

Do you have a cat? Does your neighborhood have cats or squirrels or possums? If so, jamb a toothpick under the outside start switch.
[email protected] 10/05/18 06:49pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Info about warrenty’s

Service contracts are well known to be a waste of money for the average consumer. Only 10% of buyers ever save money with them. I use to sell them and I'd never buy one. Self insured is the way to go. Put $150/mo for a year into a repair fund and decrease it over time after that. OR, price out a service contract (note that what a dealer sells can be bought for 1/2 what the dealer asks), take that amount and put it in a savings account. Only use if for repairs. Add to it the next year.
[email protected] 10/04/18 10:17pm General RVing Issues
RE: Cleaning genset

The boards in an Onan are covered with conformal coating. So basically waterproof. What isn't waterproof are the terminals in the connectors. And a water short between connections wouldn't be good. So disconnect the battery first, spray the area with a bit of water and Dawn, rinse completely, let dry completely, pull the connectors and shake any water out, blow them dry with compressed air, maybe sit overnight or several hours in the heat of the day without connecting the battery. Then you should be good to go.
[email protected] 10/04/18 10:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Winnebago Hood Latches

The only gotcha is that countersunk screws will lead to gelcoat cracks. I'd use cap screws and live with the exposed heads. I've never heard of that probability. Any links? A properly drilled hole and a smooth countersink shouldn't damage the gelcoat enough to cause cracks should it? I don't have the knowledge to guess. I'm not even sure I have gelcoat. Because my RV doesn't shine like water...which is what I suppose gelcoat causes. It just seems like smooth fiberglass when I get it washed, and then a wax coat makes it shiny. It's now 16 years old and there's no flaking of the RV surface anywhere (but there is on my car) so I don't think I have gelcoat.
[email protected] 10/04/18 08:42pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Winnebago Hood Latches

The day after I read this thread and posted my blog link, the new window washer reservoir and pump that I'd ordered arrived so I was out there working on that under the hood. The hood area of Winnies are like the rear area in that many components are only epoxied on, and what happened is the right (when facing) side bracket that holds the hood was loose. And also one of the hood latches was loose. Both are supposed to be held only with epoxy, and of course that had broken off. So as it happened, it turned out that I needed to do some work on the front to go along with what I'd done on the rear a couple years ago. Ended up with 7 screws holding the various components and when I get the right tool, there will be 9 screws. No more depending on epoxy for me. If any of you have your front or rear end components like grills or hoods just epoxied on, the epoxy is going to fail. Here's my blog write up of the work I did on the front: Fixing the loose fiberglass pieces...
[email protected] 10/04/18 02:24pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Experience With Radiator Replacement

I've often wondered on my '02 Journey if I couldn't install some sort of hinge arrangement on the rad so it could be opened to both access the front of the engine and/or clean the rad? Impossible? Possible? Wonder if it's been done?
[email protected] 10/03/18 10:15am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Pushy Sales Advertisements

GS uses several aggressive mail solicitation companies to send you multiple pieces of junk mail every month. They get paid for each one they send so have no inducement to STOP sending them. I gave up trying to be nice and believing their 'Oh, we'll stop sending those' lies when I called and just started to collect all their mail, stuff it in ONE post paid envelope and sent it back with my name front and center and 'NO' written wherever a signature was required. Took months, but they finally got tired of getting those thick and heavy mailed returns that THEY paid for and that never generated any income and gave up on me. To my great relief. Oh, and my great satisfaction too. Kind of enjoyed giving it to them after I'd tried to be nice. This is the only method of getting GS to stop sending you tons of junk mail. Despite what their reps or emails say.
[email protected] 10/02/18 09:59pm Good Sam Club
RE: Experience With Radiator Replacement

I was lucky that the original owner of my current Cat 3126e knew about these problems from the get go and had the dip stick remarked to 20 qts instead of going by the factory written (next to the fill tube on a metal plate) 22 qts. So when I bought this RV, and since I also knew about the issue, I paid close attention to the front of my car and to how much oil was used. Very little oily residue ever ends up on the front of my car. Now there are several who say that this model Cat uses 19 qts, but that's not always what the factory decides is correct. Which of course causes confusion. I've tried to be observant and monitored the oil level so I'm pretty sure the 20 qts works fine for this particular setup. I've also been a conservative driver in the mountains like you and haven't had any overheating issues. I've also done the Purple Simple Green treatment, but just once. Sprayed the rad out from the back a few times too. Now, on to the issues with your rads. They both look fine! Why replace that rad if there's no leak when a good soak and spray out will suffice? Just curious about that. It also appears that you frequent an area where you're more apt to get a lot of dust and debris on your rad that the rest of us wouldn't. Do you live down a very long unpaved country road? Again, just curious. Finally, it's not entirely clear...did you reduce the amount of oil used in the crankcase? Both my Fleetwood Cummins and Winnie Cat stop blowing oil at a reduced oil level. Might still need a slobber tube extension though. Thanks for relating your experience. Knowing what others are doing about this issue is always helpful.
[email protected] 10/02/18 09:47pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: How is crossing at Tecate for Class A rigs?

I'll be coming from the east and will pass right by Mexicali and like I've mentioned, I've used the Mexicali crossings both West and East and it's fine for me and I'm use to it. But I wanted to try something different and Tecate sounded interesting initially plus had several people recommend it. Turned out they aren't Class A owners. So now, since I've already done Mexicali, and that other one further east, and since Tecate is a no go, could anyone clue me in on what to expect at Tijuana? Again, driving a 36 foot Class A towing a car. Thanks.
[email protected] 10/02/18 09:19pm RVing in Mexico and South America
RE: Engine starting issues

Had the same issue with a Cummins diesel. Turn the key, nothing. Lights didn't dim either. Over the years paid a handful of money for techs to work on the problem and even after replacing the starting motor, it persisted (though it started quickly with the new motor, allowing the mechanic to call it good). Since I was always traveling, could never get a handle on it nor could the techs that worked on it. Even paid for a starting motor rebuild down in Mexico. So, over 12 years with the problem, and a few hundred dollars spent, never found what it was. Seemed to be heat related and if I just WAITED for 1/2 hour, it would crank right over. Gave up and lived with it until I sold the RV.
[email protected] 10/02/18 08:58pm Class A Motorhomes
How is crossing at Tecate for Class A rigs?

I was almost convinced on a FB RVing in Mexico thread to use the Tecate crossing on my way to Ensenada. But then someone said that there's a 90 degree turn and two large posts blocking entrance into Mexico and it's likely that a 36 foot Class A towing a car would be damaged. I don't want that. So my question is where people cross to get to Ensenada in a big Class A? Mexicali? Or Tijuana? I've crossed at the west crossing of Mexicali 2-3 times and it's a breeze if you're in the far right lane, but I don't mind experiencing a different crossing if it makes more sense (Tijuana?). So what do you say? Any suggestions?
[email protected] 10/02/18 06:12pm RVing in Mexico and South America
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