| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: Did I damage my house batteries?
After checking to be sure you are not overcharging, you might want to consider AGM batteries next time. They cost more but generally last longer and do not require maintenance.
|
JimK-NY
|
03/09/23 10:45am |
General RVing Issues
|
|
RE: right front tire wear
All it takes is one good pothole.
|
JimK-NY
|
03/05/23 12:21pm |
Truck Campers
|
|
RE: right front tire wear
As already mentioned, this sort of abnormal wear indicates an issue with alignment or a similar issue.
Don't feel bad about skipping the tire rotations. Rotations would only disguise the issue. You now know something is wrong and needs to be fixed. I feel this way about tire rotations in general. I have not done tire rotations on my cars in decades. The only issue I have had is tires wearing differently front to back. No problem. I just replace the front or back set as needed. On my truck camper the rear tires wear at twice the rate of the front tires. At about 15-20K miles, I switch out the front and rear tires. After another 15-20K I replace the rear set with new tires. Following this schedule I always have relatively new, minimally worn tires on the rear axle.
|
JimK-NY
|
03/05/23 06:03am |
Truck Campers
|
|
RE: Bathroom door
A heavy door in a TC. One has to wonder about the design and the idea of keeping weight minimal for the job. I would throw away the door and hang a nice looking shower curtain.
|
JimK-NY
|
02/27/23 12:39pm |
Truck Campers
|
 |
RE: Pets left alone in RV at campground?
It's been pretty well covered here, but I kind of interpret that to mean unattended and outside.
That is not the rule I was expected to enforce as a campground host in a National Park. Left alone was left alone, outdoors or inside the RV. Neither were allowed.
|
JimK-NY
|
02/26/23 12:09pm |
General RVing Issues
|
|
RE: Pets left alone in RV at campground?
When I was a campground host in a National Park, pets were not allowed on the trails and were not allowed to be left alone in the campground. That made it about impossible for a visitor with a dog to do much of a visit. The rules were enforced.
I suppose a few visitors left dogs alone and got away with it. It would be much better to leave the pets with friends/relatives or to board the animals. Of course it depends on the style of "camping" you plan on. If you want to hike and visit scenic areas, a dog can be an issue. If you want to sit around an RV park, drink and eat and have BBQs, then not so much.
|
JimK-NY
|
02/26/23 05:59am |
General RVing Issues
|
|
RE: folding utility trailer
Aside from Emergency Evacuations, here are a few uses that we've taken advantage of:
Family Road trips
Emergency Evacuations
Town Recycle
Outdoors Activities
DIY Home Improvements
Landscaping
Traveling Sports
College Student Move-In Day
…to name a few
I hope this helps clarify...thanks everyone
Bob Taylor
This did not help me understand. Sure I can see the utility of a small trailer for the tasks mentioned, and more. I don't see the advantage of folding up the trailer after such uses. Nor can I envision how this trailer would be using for camping. Perhaps it could be used to carry firewood to a campsite and then afterwards fold it up for the return trip. Even that seems questionable. After dropping off firewood or student move in stuff, I think it would be easier just to return without trying to fold up the trailer. I also wonder how many SUVs are designed to carry or drive well with several hundred pounds of trailer and hitch behind the rear axle.
|
JimK-NY
|
02/25/23 05:24am |
General RVing Issues
|
|
RE: Truck to fit camper
You guys are not on the same page. There is a big difference in axle mfg rating and the truck mfg rawr.
The wheels and tires almost always define the overall CCC and load ratings for each axle.
For a SWR truck, depending on the exact size, tires will have a load rating of about 3500#, 7000# for both tires. The base weight of the truck will be about 3500# on the rear axle, leaving about that same amount for cargo. That means a SWR truck can carry a relatively light hardsided camper in the base weight range of about 2000#. Again that means a relatively light rig, no slides, and no more than about an 8 or 9 foot camper.
A larger camper with a slide or slides is almost certainly going to require a DWR truck and the heavier camper models even exceed that capacity.
|
JimK-NY
|
02/25/23 05:07am |
Truck Campers
|
|
RE: Kitchen stove fan "flap".
After I used my RV just a few times, the flapper broke. Just as you mentioned it was the thin plastic hinge pins that broke. Coincidentally I was near the manufacturer (Northstar) and stopped at the factory. The were accommodating and offered me a choice of the only two varieties they had available. The first choice was identical to what broke. Or I could opt for a similar unit that did not have a hinge. The flapper was held in place by a piece of tape that looked like duct tape. I opted for the original which soon broke.
I repaired the replacement by using a piece of coat hanger as a substitute for the plastic hinge piece.
Anyway the overall design is just appalling. Even worse, the flapper needs to be secured for travel or it will continue to flap and soon break. I have to stand on a stool to secure or release the travel tabs. Since that is a major nuisance and the exhaust fan on my range hood is extremely noisy, I gave up using it. Instead I try to use the fantastic fan on the ceiling to clear smoke and odors from cooking.
Perhaps there are better choices but I have not looked recently.
|
JimK-NY
|
02/24/23 07:09am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Propane hose pigtail replacement
First that "plastic acme adapter" is not designed to form a seal and does not need anything more than gentle hand tightening. The seal is formed between the brass fittings inside the adapter and inside the propane tank. It takes a lot of excessive force and probably use of a wrench to break one.
The hose is a different issue. The problem is the deterioration of the hose due to exposure to propane. This includes drying out and becoming brittle. Another issue is that the deterioration can result in an oily sludge making its way to the regulator. This is not a quality issue but more an issue with the standard materials being used regardless of country of origin. I have been replacing my hoses approximately every 5 years due to becoming stiff and potentially cracking especially in cold weather. I am now trying a "non-leaching" propane pig tail. It is a little more expensive but should last longer. Several companies sell this. Mine is from Marshall Excelsior.
|
JimK-NY
|
02/23/23 02:30pm |
General RVing Issues
|
|
RE: Truck to fit camper
Aren't there some 18's or 20's that have 4000lb+ load rating in SRW configuration?
I have a Ram 3500 with 20" wheels. Load rating on the tires is 3640, 7880 for 2 wheels. That is not going to cut it for a heavy camper. Unloaded weight on the rear tires for my truck is about 3500#, leaving only a little over 4000# for the camper weight. The Tahoe is going to come in way over that, at least 1000-2000# more with almost all that weight on the rear tires.
|
JimK-NY
|
02/23/23 02:16pm |
Truck Campers
|
|
RE: Furnace on while moving
No one said generator too. I always run fridge and heater with no problems. I fire that Genny up about an hour before I'm ready to quit driving. I turn on my electric bed pad to HIGH and have a super awesome warm bed to crawl into if it is cold outside.
There is another way. I have a couple of oversized hot water bottles. They heat the bed and keep quite warm for hours. All that is needed is some hot water. I use a kettle.
|
JimK-NY
|
02/23/23 01:01pm |
Truck Campers
|
|
RE: Truck to fit camper
You will almost certainly need a DRW truck. You really need to look more closely at the camper specs. On the webpage, this camper starts at 3340# dry weight. Wet weight will be very close to 4000# without options. The list of options is really long and includes many must have items. You need a more exact weight for the specific camper configurations. Then figure close to another 1000# to outfit the camper with food, clothing, tools, emergency air compressor, kitchen gear, bedding, generator, fuel, lawn chairs, BBQ, cleaning supplies, etc, etc. I can almost guarantee you will hit at least 500# if you are careful on keeping the weight down. Don't forget to add additional weight for passengers, truck modifications such as a bed mat, brackets and tiedowns. It is very likely that you will hit a grand total of 6000#.
You will almost certainly also want to use a diesel to pull this rig.
|
JimK-NY
|
02/23/23 12:52pm |
Truck Campers
|
|
RE: Furnace on while moving
I made sure I bought a truck with a back window that opened. I use a "donut" between the camper and truck and there is a nice flow of air into the camper if I leave a vent partially open. Whether is it hot or cold, the air from the truck a/c or heater will keep the camper at a reasonable temperature.
|
JimK-NY
|
02/22/23 06:41pm |
Truck Campers
|
|
RE: CO/LP Detector
The issue of placement for detectors seems to be a topic that will not die.
For the most rapid detection of propane, the detector should be mounted low near the floor. Propane is heavier than air and mixes relatively slowly.
CO mixes very rapidly with air and does not stratify like propane does. Hence the detector can in theory be placed at any height including near the floor as in a combination propane/CO detector.
Sadly the EPA bureaucrats made all of this worse. Years ago they decided that the optimum placement for a CO detector was head high, approximately 5' above the floor. This reg seems to have been motivated by the self importance of the EPA rather than based on any science. I do not know if this has been rescinded but they did decide that detectors should be placed in locations as specified by the manufacturer. The last time I checked my paperwork from Kidde they had no recommendation for height of placement. The big concern for either type of detector is to avoid dead spaces such as corners of a room.
|
JimK-NY
|
02/20/23 11:47am |
Truck Campers
|
|
RE: A happy ending?
Fact is this guy was grossly negligent. We aren't talking about being a couple hundred pounds overweight. He was wildly overweight with poor weight distribution.
Considering the payload is right there on the door jam, claims that he was told he had more payload don't ring true.
My experience has been that when shopping for a truck, the salespeople have no experience. At least that is the case on the East coast area where I live. They sell mostly 1/2 ton trucks and seem to think a 3/4 or 1 ton should be able to carry everything. It seems that there is a combination of ignorance and just trying to make a sale for a truck currently in their lot. Buyers and salespeople alike also seem to be confused about the need to check the specs for the specific truck. They often fail to realize that a diesel engine, crew cab and other modifications and options can significantly affect the cargo carrying capacity.
The approach of RV dealers doesn't seem to be much better. Brochures and literature which do provide specs seem to be geared towards underplaying this issue. They typically show weights for a stripped down basic unit without common options such as an A/C and even awnings. New buyers don't understand that the spec weight is going to increase by often thousands of pounds when the camper is loaded and ready for a trip.
The weight problem is not restricted to truck campers and can be even worse for trailers. Trailers are typically built with undersized tires, wheels, suspension and frame components. It is common to see a 25-30' trailer that is designed to sleep up to 6 people but is only rated to carry about 1000#. These trailers often have huge compartments that are loaded up with BBQ grills, tools, lawn furniture and often even large amounts of firewood in addition to the clothing, kitchen stuff, food and gear that a family is likely to load.
|
JimK-NY
|
02/20/23 05:18am |
Truck Campers
|
|
RE: A happy ending?
Having recently dealt with an insurance claim, it seems that the insurance companies do not care about the high cost of coverage. Higher expenses just mean they can justify higher premiums.
I had some very minor damage. Another car rubbed my front bumper when trying to parallel park. The only damage was a small area where the plastic on the bumper was torn. They had no problem paying for a new bumper for a total cost of a bit over $2000. I even qualified for a rental car for the week the repair took but did not need it.
|
JimK-NY
|
02/19/23 08:43pm |
Truck Campers
|
|
RE: Help With Figuring Out Which Trucks Will Work For A Camper
It is very common to grossly underestimate final camper weights.
First you need to be very careful about the actual specs from the manufacturer. Quite often the specs they provide are for a basic unit which does not include typical accessories such as A/C, awnings, microwave, larger refrigerator, TV, etc. Next be sure to include the wet weight if that is not included by the manufacturer. Even just 30 gallons of water and a couple of propane tanks can add another 300#.
Next you have to add heavy items you might carry such as a generator, fuel, extra battery, and any upgrades such as a foam mattress. Include upgrades you might need for the truck such as a bed mat, brackets, tiedowns, leveling blocks and any suspension upgrades.
Finally you need to add in an estimate for all the items you are not going to count individually. Food and drinks are really heavy. Lots of small items add up. That would include kitchen gear/pots/pans/plates, towels, bedding, clothing, BBQ grill, electronic items, hobby gear, cleaning supplies, extension cords, maps/brochures/travel guides, binoculars, walking stick, etc. It is really easy to have all of this add up to 750-1000# depending partly on the number of people and length of stay. Some people even add a pile of firewood to the cargo.
|
JimK-NY
|
02/18/23 08:26pm |
Truck Campers
|
|
RE: Frame Stiffing to reduce Porpoising?
.........
To be solution oriented, it is strongly suggested to have your camper actually weighed as currently equipped with how you travel with it.
Most of us who have done this are shocked at the results. I know I was. I had the base weight of my specific TC and thought I had an accurate estimate for the weight of everything else. I was off by close to 1000#.
|
JimK-NY
|
01/30/23 02:07pm |
Truck Campers
|
|
RE: yet another door look bites the dust
Since you are in a class C, it doesn't matter but you should be able to unscrew and remove the lock from inside the RV. When mine broke, I had no problem finding a replacement at an RV parts store. I never saw an all steel model. Mine has plastic parts on the inside.
|
JimK-NY
|
01/26/23 01:46pm |
Tech Issues
|
