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 > Your search for posts made by 'JimK-NY' found 302 matches.

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RE: Jack Failure Disaster

Looking at the pictures of the aftermath, it is not clear to me what went wrong. I would consider the following: Does the camper have suitable structure to support the jacks? Those skimpy wood screws do not point in that direction. My brackets are attached into solid wood with long, heavy lag bolts. Were the jacks properly aligned at the start? All 4 need to point straight down with no forward-back or side to side canting. Was the ground really hard and suitable? Did you use support blocks to distribute the weight for the jacks? Did you jack up the camper keeping the front higher or at least level with the back and distributing the weight as well as possible on all of the jacks? I recommend using levels, front and back, side to side to help with this. Did the camper and support start on level ground? It looks like there is considerable slope downward to the right and also downward to the back. That would put a lot of pressure on the right rear jack also make it difficult to maintain a level camper with even weight distribution on the jacks.
JimK-NY 04/14/22 05:32am Truck Campers
RE: Help with Wiring New 12v System

I don't have a favorite calculator. Anyway, if you have a 45amp system, I would wire for that maximum amount. So that would be 5' away for a total pos-neg wire run of 10 ft. 8 gauge is not excessive. How much power you draw is only one consideration. You need to wire the system for the max charging at 45 amps. If your distance estimate is off a couple of feet, that would put you closer to 6 gauge wiring.
JimK-NY 04/13/22 02:54pm Tech Issues
RE: Help with Wiring New 12v System

Looks like you had your questioned answered. Since you are new to DC wiring, I have another suggestion. Pay attention to wire gauges. 12v systems carry 10x the amperage of a 120v system to provide the same power. Use a wire gauge calculator and don't skimp. Even the 8 gauge to the battery may not be enough depending on the distance to the power unit.
JimK-NY 04/13/22 06:05am Tech Issues
RE: What is happening with our members?

Years ago I learned the importance of correctly hanging toilet paper in my truck camper. After driving the vibrations would result in a yard or so of toilet paper on the floor of the camper. I learned to flatten the roll before putting it on the spindle.
JimK-NY 04/13/22 05:54am General RVing Issues
RE: Bedding in overhead beds in T/C

Or I can tell you what they told me when I asked: Suck it up buttercup. (paraphrased) Making the bed in my TC is a spelunking expedition. I have to crawl UNDER the mattress to get the sheets and blankets tucked under the far side. I wrangle the fitted sheet on while on the bed, then throw the flat sheet and blanket over the far side, then crawl under the mattress and pull it under. Unfortunately I have done the same for years....and I hate it. My mattress is 8" of fairly dense and definitely heavy foam. Trying to get under, raise the mattress and wrangle the fitted sheet in place is a major chore. There must be a better way.
JimK-NY 04/13/22 05:47am Truck Campers
RE: Jack Failure Disaster

I am confused. Was the camper being lifted off those blue pallets when it fell over? In any case the ground seems to be very uneven. The ground seems to have a considerable drop from left to right and also from front to back of the camper. I have been able to load and unload with a front to back slope but I would not want to deal with a sideways slope.
JimK-NY 04/12/22 05:39pm Truck Campers
RE: Jack Failure Disaster

None of us can evaluate the structural issues, if any. If there were no structural issues, my first guess would be the same as stated by notsobigjoe. The front of the camper needs to be higher than the rear throughout the process. Second, you need to lower the jacks evenly. I recommend looking at levels when lowering or raising and also periodically check all of the jacks to be sure they are holding at least some of the load. Finally I would be concerned about the ground. Was it really as hard as you thought? Did you use wooden squares or other supports under the legs to distribute the load and keep jacks from digging into the ground? Anyway, I am sure you must feel sick after such an experience. I hope the damage was minor and you quickly sort out the issue.
JimK-NY 04/11/22 07:28pm Truck Campers
RE: Battery tender & storage

I would assume you are living in Alaska in the Summer months and using the RV in the Winter months. If so your battery is subject to the high temps of Arizona. When I lived in Mesa, I found that the Summer heat was really bad on batteries. I never had a car battery even last two Summers. If you are storing your RV in either the Tucson or Phoenix areas, I doubt it will make much difference what you do. The batteries are not likely to last very long. Get the batteries out of the RV and store them in the coolest, shadiest area you can find.
JimK-NY 04/10/22 05:13am Tech Issues
RE: Yet another Air Dam/Spoiler/Airfoil thingy

Bottom of the overhang will be wet and is spattered with bugs. There is a line of bugs on the camper bulkhead and it will be wet in the rain. Opening the rear window resulted in a large wind through the cab. Air flow in the area is much different after installing the dam. .... I have always had a boot sealing the space between the rear cab window and the pass through in the front of the camper. Perhaps driving without a boot and leaving one or more of these windows open might break the dead air pocket and allow water and a splatter of bugs to hit the bulkhead of the camper.
JimK-NY 04/09/22 06:59am Truck Campers
RE: DRW vs SRW safety, tire blowout

I daily drive my dually. It goes thru bank and restaurant drive thrus a couple times each week. It fits in parking spaces just fine. This may be regional. I have personally had to back out of bank drive throughs and dont even bother trying to make it through fast food drive throughs with my dually. I agree. I have plenty of issues with my SRW camper rig or even with the crew cab/8 ft bed truck by itself. I cannot get in or out of the parking spaces for most stores. Sometimes I can park in the back of the lot but for crowded lots I cannot park at all. The width can be cramped but the space between rows is a bigger issue.
JimK-NY 04/08/22 06:25am Truck Campers
RE: What is happening with our members?

I doubt anything has "happened" to the forum members. There have always been plenty of silly/dumb questions. Observations of the past few years of politics and response to Covid should leave no doubt about the lack of intelligence that is commonplace.
JimK-NY 04/08/22 05:53am General RVing Issues
RE: Yet another Air Dam/Spoiler/Airfoil thingy

This should be cautionary tale for anyone considering such a project. The end result is that it "seems" there might be some decrease in wind noise. I suspect the design and construction of such a device could actually increase the noise. Any sharp edges could result in a whistle sound. Before undertaking any project like this, consider the physics involved. The air trapped between the camper and roof of the truck forms a dead zone that effectively blocks the flow of air. This is easy to see. Drive through a rainstorm. The nose of the camper and the overhang area will be wet. A few inches behind the roof of the truck to the bed area will be dry. The same can be seen driving through an insect hatch. There will be no bugs in that area.
JimK-NY 04/08/22 05:49am Truck Campers
RE: DRW vs SRW safety, tire blowout

How often do we worry about blowouts when driving our cars? That should also be the case for RVs. Tires should be properly inflated and the load should be well within the rating tire capacity. Cars tend to run up higher mileage and tires are going to wear out and be replaced. Many RVs are not used that much and some owners do not want to replace old tires that still have a lot of tread. I don't need a DRW car and should not need a DRW truck for the loads I carry. If you worry about a blowout, consider that a blowout on a front tire is likely to be much worse than for a rear tire. Again, use good tires, properly maintained and inflated and replaced roughly every 5-7 years.
JimK-NY 04/08/22 05:27am Truck Campers
RE: Compartment latches and locks

Many camlocks break easily which is the complaint of the OP. Sure you can buy better locks or locks with keys other than 751. But why bother? Most storage compartments can be easily popped open with a screwdriver so the quality of the locks or the different keys do little or nothing to improve security. Personally I just bought a supply of standard 751 camlocks. It only takes a couple of minutes and a couple of dollars to replace a broken or sticking camlock. I keep a bunch of spares and spare parts in my RV.
JimK-NY 04/06/22 08:21am Tech Issues
RE: 12 vdc fridge

We have one in our current unit. Draws about 50w when operating, so worst case is 1200w-hr per day but assuming you don't camp in Arizona in the summer, 50% duty cycle would be more typical, so about 600w-hr/day...... With my unit, I don't have to be in Arizona heat to see a huge increase in energy consumption. At about 60 degrees, my unit runs less than 1/3 of the time. In the low 70s that increases to about 50%. In the mid 80 degree range, my units runs pretty much full time. I have camped in the low 90s and at that point the refrigerator cannot maintain proper temperature. I need to turn down the thermostat so it can try to get extra cool during the night and that helps it coast during the day. But by doing that I guarantee it will run constantly even at night. For me the numbers would be about 15-20 AH/day in cool weather, about 25 AH/day for medium temps and 55 AH/day in hot summer weather. Again, my unit is small at about 4 cuft. Most RVs will have units about twice that size with twice the power consumption.
JimK-NY 04/03/22 12:23pm General RVing Issues
RE: truck camper sitting in a wet truck bed

My truck has a liner and drain holes in the front corners of the bed. Anyway, no water ever gets into this area. My camper overhangs the sides of the truck bed rails by several inches and the gap between the camper and rails is only a couple of inches. I store extra boots, clothing and paper goods between the camper and the truck. No water or dampness ever in years of doing this.
JimK-NY 04/03/22 11:45am Truck Campers
RE: 12 vdc fridge

A 50 watt panel will generate up to about 25 AH/day. That maximum is only possible on a clear day with no obstructions and in mid Summer with the sun directly overhead on the panel. I have a small (4 cuft), efficient Nova Kool compressor refrigerator. It pulls about 2.3 amps when running. At roughly 70 degrees it runs a minimum of about 10 hours a day for 23 AH. If the ambient temps are higher, or the refrigerator is opened numerous times, or if you add any items that need to be cooled down, the compressor is going to run much longer and can easily eat up 40 or more AH/day. I would recommend at least 200-300 watts of solar in order to generate sufficient power for the refrigerator, lights, water pump, and minimal use of a furnace. The rule of thumb also requires roughly 200-300 AHs of battery bank. I have 270 watts and still need to use a generator for cloudy days, when not parked in direct sun, and for Fall-Spring use when the sun is lower in the sky and less intense.
JimK-NY 04/03/22 06:04am General RVing Issues
RE: Battery operated fan quesiton ?

Amazon has fans that run on 120v or D cell batteries. We actually picked up one that someone else threw away. According to Amazon it will run for 50+ hours on low speed and 20 some on high speed. It takes 6 D cell batteries. You could use rechargeable batteries but I doubt that you would be able to recharge them in only 2 or 3 hours.
JimK-NY 03/30/22 09:18pm General RVing Issues
RE: Furnace using too much propane

The OP's profile shows a 36' Forest River Sandpiper with 3 slides. That should be considered more of a 3 season RV and it is not surprising that it is going to use lots of propane with night time temps dropping to 30 degrees. The furnace for that unit is 35000 BTU so it will burn through about 0.4 gallons of propane per hour. A 30# tank is typically filled to about 7 gallons giving roughly 17.5 hours of burn time. That is about 70% operation. That is probably about what it is going to take to keep that RV at 65 degrees. I would not be surprised if the furnace is running almost constantly at night. Maybe the burner is a bit out of adjustment or you have a heat leak but the propane use is not way off of expected. There is a simple solution. Turn the heat off at night. For temps down to freezing I can get by with little propane and little electric use for the blower. At night I turn the heat off entirely. I have some really good fleece blankets which keep me plenty warm. In the morning the RV temps are likely to be only about 10 degrees or so warmer than outside. Maybe 40-45 degrees. I put the heat on and the RV warms up pretty quickly. Then I turn it off while I am out for the day. So I am heating for an hour or so in the morning and maybe 3 hours of so in the evening. Don't forget about propane used for hot water. It takes a lot of heat to warm up ice cold water. The typical RV water heater will pull up to about 10,000 btu when running. You might also want to check on the fill level of the tanks. Places that have a flat charge for filling or which do exchanges often substantially underfill tanks.
JimK-NY 03/29/22 05:17pm Tech Issues
RE: Tires

The age is pushing it. If you are going to be even close to the maximum load rating, I would replace them. Way short and you might give them another year or so.
JimK-NY 03/29/22 02:44pm Tech Issues
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