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 > Your search for posts made by 'JimK-NY' found 269 matches.

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RE: ZEP Floor Wax Update

Is Filon and fiberglass considered the same thing? Can it be used on Filon? Filon is a trademark for a fiberglass product.
JimK-NY 04/21/22 02:35pm General RVing Issues
RE: Residential Fridge battery run time

Ron did a great job of explaining the issues, except I would disagree on the boondocking recommendation. In Ron's example even 6 batteries would only keep the refrigerator running for a maximum of a day or so depending on other electrical use. Re-charging the battery bank would take a great many hours of generator run time. A large residential refrigerator is not practical unless you plan on hook ups at all times.
JimK-NY 04/21/22 07:04am General RVing Issues
ZEP Floor Wax Update

At this time of year many of us are de-winterizing and getting our RVs ready for another season. If you are about to wash and wax your RV, perhaps my comments on Zep floor wax will be of interest. I forgot the exact year but about 6 years ago in the Spring, I washed my RV and applied a coat of paste wax, Meguiars Flagship Premium Marine. The results were not good with lots of swirls and blotchy areas. I applied a second coat and the results were no better. I decided it was time to try ZEP. I stripped off the Meguiars, scrubbed with Bar Keepers Friend and applied several thin coats of ZEP. Over the past 6 years I have added a couple more coats of ZEP with no additional surface prep except for washing. With one exception, the results have been outstanding. The shine still looks like new. I barely need to wash the RV. Just spraying with a hose removes dirt. There have been no black streaks, no yellowing, no peeling, no sign of deterioration or oxidation. There has been on exception--the nose of the RV. Baked on bug splatters and road grime have taken a toll. I had to use ZEP stripper to remove the old wax coats and I am about ready to reapply a few coats of ZEP, probably 4 or 5 thin coats. I will be happy to answer any questions on using ZEP. I will say that good surface prep is essential before applying. Old wax and oxidation needs to be stripped off. Doing the prep is a one time thing as opposed to the work of using traditional waxes at least once or twice a year.
JimK-NY 04/21/22 06:52am General RVing Issues
RE: Cassette toilet/shower

For those with cassette toilets, is finding a place to empty the cassette ever a problem? After 22 years of rving I'm tired of dumping, leaking valves, and a leaking toilet. This old thread keeps coming back to life. Anyway I did provide some information on dumping when I posted last Fall. As a quick summary, with two of us using the toilet almost exclusively (I often pee in the woods), the cassette needs to be dumped every few days. No doubt about it that is a nuisance. I typically dump at a regular dump station or dump into an outhouse. I have dumped in regular toilets but not when others are around. Unless I use a lot of chemicals, the odor in an enclosed area is bad. I can give an example of the difference in dumping a cassette versus a black tank. Mammoth campground is one of my favorite areas in Yellowstone. The campground is large but without a dump station. If no one is around, I often use the flush toilet for dumping. Otherwise there are several nearby outhouses. If I had a black tank, the round trip to the Madison Campground dump is 70 miles and would take at least 2 hours. It seems there is always construction, tourist traffic or bison blocking the road. You would be lucky to do the round trip including dumping in under 4 hours.
JimK-NY 04/19/22 09:51am Truck Campers
RE: Seat Covers for Ford 350

Are you looking for something special? I bought mine from Costco or Cabelas. I can't remember. They are also available in every auto parts store. Most are made of codura or a similar material and are waterproof. I would not spend a lot of money. With a dog especially I would plan on merely replacing them every few years.
JimK-NY 04/19/22 06:53am General RVing Issues
RE: Jack Failure Disaster

I think you are close to a solution. That angle bracket looks good especially if you include some structural steel from one side of the camper to the other. You could also consider extending that metal plate higher on the side of the camper, maybe even a foot or so higher than the jacks on the wall of the camper. The more, the better. The angle iron will strengthen the side-to-side support, but perhaps you also need more support for the jacks and brackets in the front to back direction. Maybe another angle iron welded on at right angles to the one you are planning to use. Even better perhaps 2 pieces of steel going front to back. One piece should be toward the top of the bracket and the other as low as possible. Perhaps I have not described this well. What I envision is a cradle under the camper so the lifting is on the cradle not on the attachments to the camper.
JimK-NY 04/15/22 07:12am Truck Campers
RE: Yet another Air Dam/Spoiler/Airfoil thingy

I am not sure if an insulating pad between the cab and camper would do much. In addition to the built in insulation, I sleep on 8" of a highly insulating foam mattress. If cold is an issue, I have found two really significant improvements. I improved the gaskets on camper door and hung a curtain not above it. A heavy blackout curtain does wonders for privacy and to retain heat and stop the drafts. Indoor/outdoor carpeting on the floor made a huge difference. I thought it would be too difficult to keep clean but that has not been an issue. Next I put rigid foam insulation between the rails of the truck bed and the camper. That sealed the base between the truck and the base area of the camper. Any or all of these would be easier than trying to insulate over the truck cab area.
JimK-NY 04/14/22 12:23pm Truck Campers
RE: Jack Failure Disaster

Looking at the pictures of the aftermath, it is not clear to me what went wrong. I would consider the following: Does the camper have suitable structure to support the jacks? Those skimpy wood screws do not point in that direction. My brackets are attached into solid wood with long, heavy lag bolts. Were the jacks properly aligned at the start? All 4 need to point straight down with no forward-back or side to side canting. Was the ground really hard and suitable? Did you use support blocks to distribute the weight for the jacks? Did you jack up the camper keeping the front higher or at least level with the back and distributing the weight as well as possible on all of the jacks? I recommend using levels, front and back, side to side to help with this. Did the camper and support start on level ground? It looks like there is considerable slope downward to the right and also downward to the back. That would put a lot of pressure on the right rear jack also make it difficult to maintain a level camper with even weight distribution on the jacks.
JimK-NY 04/14/22 05:32am Truck Campers
RE: Help with Wiring New 12v System

I don't have a favorite calculator. Anyway, if you have a 45amp system, I would wire for that maximum amount. So that would be 5' away for a total pos-neg wire run of 10 ft. 8 gauge is not excessive. How much power you draw is only one consideration. You need to wire the system for the max charging at 45 amps. If your distance estimate is off a couple of feet, that would put you closer to 6 gauge wiring.
JimK-NY 04/13/22 02:54pm Tech Issues
RE: Help with Wiring New 12v System

Looks like you had your questioned answered. Since you are new to DC wiring, I have another suggestion. Pay attention to wire gauges. 12v systems carry 10x the amperage of a 120v system to provide the same power. Use a wire gauge calculator and don't skimp. Even the 8 gauge to the battery may not be enough depending on the distance to the power unit.
JimK-NY 04/13/22 06:05am Tech Issues
RE: What is happening with our members?

Years ago I learned the importance of correctly hanging toilet paper in my truck camper. After driving the vibrations would result in a yard or so of toilet paper on the floor of the camper. I learned to flatten the roll before putting it on the spindle.
JimK-NY 04/13/22 05:54am General RVing Issues
RE: Bedding in overhead beds in T/C

Or I can tell you what they told me when I asked: Suck it up buttercup. (paraphrased) Making the bed in my TC is a spelunking expedition. I have to crawl UNDER the mattress to get the sheets and blankets tucked under the far side. I wrangle the fitted sheet on while on the bed, then throw the flat sheet and blanket over the far side, then crawl under the mattress and pull it under. Unfortunately I have done the same for years....and I hate it. My mattress is 8" of fairly dense and definitely heavy foam. Trying to get under, raise the mattress and wrangle the fitted sheet in place is a major chore. There must be a better way.
JimK-NY 04/13/22 05:47am Truck Campers
RE: Jack Failure Disaster

I am confused. Was the camper being lifted off those blue pallets when it fell over? In any case the ground seems to be very uneven. The ground seems to have a considerable drop from left to right and also from front to back of the camper. I have been able to load and unload with a front to back slope but I would not want to deal with a sideways slope.
JimK-NY 04/12/22 05:39pm Truck Campers
RE: Jack Failure Disaster

None of us can evaluate the structural issues, if any. If there were no structural issues, my first guess would be the same as stated by notsobigjoe. The front of the camper needs to be higher than the rear throughout the process. Second, you need to lower the jacks evenly. I recommend looking at levels when lowering or raising and also periodically check all of the jacks to be sure they are holding at least some of the load. Finally I would be concerned about the ground. Was it really as hard as you thought? Did you use wooden squares or other supports under the legs to distribute the load and keep jacks from digging into the ground? Anyway, I am sure you must feel sick after such an experience. I hope the damage was minor and you quickly sort out the issue.
JimK-NY 04/11/22 07:28pm Truck Campers
RE: Battery tender & storage

I would assume you are living in Alaska in the Summer months and using the RV in the Winter months. If so your battery is subject to the high temps of Arizona. When I lived in Mesa, I found that the Summer heat was really bad on batteries. I never had a car battery even last two Summers. If you are storing your RV in either the Tucson or Phoenix areas, I doubt it will make much difference what you do. The batteries are not likely to last very long. Get the batteries out of the RV and store them in the coolest, shadiest area you can find.
JimK-NY 04/10/22 05:13am Tech Issues
RE: Yet another Air Dam/Spoiler/Airfoil thingy

Bottom of the overhang will be wet and is spattered with bugs. There is a line of bugs on the camper bulkhead and it will be wet in the rain. Opening the rear window resulted in a large wind through the cab. Air flow in the area is much different after installing the dam. .... I have always had a boot sealing the space between the rear cab window and the pass through in the front of the camper. Perhaps driving without a boot and leaving one or more of these windows open might break the dead air pocket and allow water and a splatter of bugs to hit the bulkhead of the camper.
JimK-NY 04/09/22 06:59am Truck Campers
RE: DRW vs SRW safety, tire blowout

I daily drive my dually. It goes thru bank and restaurant drive thrus a couple times each week. It fits in parking spaces just fine. This may be regional. I have personally had to back out of bank drive throughs and dont even bother trying to make it through fast food drive throughs with my dually. I agree. I have plenty of issues with my SRW camper rig or even with the crew cab/8 ft bed truck by itself. I cannot get in or out of the parking spaces for most stores. Sometimes I can park in the back of the lot but for crowded lots I cannot park at all. The width can be cramped but the space between rows is a bigger issue.
JimK-NY 04/08/22 06:25am Truck Campers
RE: What is happening with our members?

I doubt anything has "happened" to the forum members. There have always been plenty of silly/dumb questions. Observations of the past few years of politics and response to Covid should leave no doubt about the lack of intelligence that is commonplace.
JimK-NY 04/08/22 05:53am General RVing Issues
RE: Yet another Air Dam/Spoiler/Airfoil thingy

This should be cautionary tale for anyone considering such a project. The end result is that it "seems" there might be some decrease in wind noise. I suspect the design and construction of such a device could actually increase the noise. Any sharp edges could result in a whistle sound. Before undertaking any project like this, consider the physics involved. The air trapped between the camper and roof of the truck forms a dead zone that effectively blocks the flow of air. This is easy to see. Drive through a rainstorm. The nose of the camper and the overhang area will be wet. A few inches behind the roof of the truck to the bed area will be dry. The same can be seen driving through an insect hatch. There will be no bugs in that area.
JimK-NY 04/08/22 05:49am Truck Campers
RE: DRW vs SRW safety, tire blowout

How often do we worry about blowouts when driving our cars? That should also be the case for RVs. Tires should be properly inflated and the load should be well within the rating tire capacity. Cars tend to run up higher mileage and tires are going to wear out and be replaced. Many RVs are not used that much and some owners do not want to replace old tires that still have a lot of tread. I don't need a DRW car and should not need a DRW truck for the loads I carry. If you worry about a blowout, consider that a blowout on a front tire is likely to be much worse than for a rear tire. Again, use good tires, properly maintained and inflated and replaced roughly every 5-7 years.
JimK-NY 04/08/22 05:27am Truck Campers
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