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 > Your search for posts made by 'Joe417' found 29 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Propane Usage 2500 Watt Onan

Recently took a 2 week trip. Kept the fridge on gas about 4 days before, 14 days traveling, and 2 days after. Ran the generator 4 hours one day and 2 hours another day for AC. Also ran it 10 or 15 minutes 4 times for microwave use. Ran the water heater through a heating cycle I think about 8 times. Then, on the way home it turned cold and used the furnace 2 nights in about 35 degree temps. That was on a 20 pound tank and it still has a pound or two in it. Could also be the tank wasn't filled to capacity when filled. I weigh my tanks after filling. The 30# tanks weigh 55# when full and one 20# weighs 37# and the other 39#. I also have one tank with a gauge and find it inaccurate.
Joe417 11/12/19 09:06pm Truck Campers
RE: Henry Ford Museum

Thanks all for the feed back. Sound like a good place to visit. We were thinking late September into October time frame. We've had several enjoyable sightseeing trips in the North Indiana and South Michigan area.
Joe417 09/02/19 09:56pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
Henry Ford Museum

We were thinking about visiting the Henry Ford Museum. Online didn't give me any practical info about visiting. It said 3.5 hour to visit, but it looked much bigger than that. Then it dawned on me that it may be multiple complexes. Anyone have any practical do's and don't for visiting. We travel in a crew cab long bed, is it hard (as far as traffic) to get in and out. Looking at the online map it looked to have several parking areas. Are the parking fees outrageous like those in and around Chicago? Do they accommodate truck campers? Any recommended camp grounds not too far from town but not in the city?? Thanks,
Joe417 09/01/19 09:19pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: looking to get into the camper world

Of course, just an opinion, but when we try something new, we always go with a used cheaper one first and find out what we like and dislike about it. Allows us to keep more of what we've earned while still getting the things we "think" we like. Had a friend who bought 4 new trucks all in about 4 years. Three were dual rear wheel. One of those he had a whole week before trading for another he liked better. Obviously, money was no object.
Joe417 08/29/19 09:15pm Truck Campers
RE: Wireless Battery Voltage Meter

This is a bit more than just a voltmeter.
Joe417 08/13/19 09:05pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Fantastic Fan Installation Question

Be prepared. I know what happens and I still have flushed without turning the fan off.
Joe417 08/06/19 08:21pm Tech Issues
RE: new thermostat install problem

Put the Red on R/RC, cap the blue, and remove one of the fan speed wires. You only want one fan speed at a time. If you want to have both speeds available, install a small single pole double throw switch on the side of the thermostat housing which you would then select manually and the thermostat would turn it on and off.(You only need small wire for the fan as the thermostat should be controlling relays.) If you can find a thermostat with a fan speed switch built in you wouldn't have to add the switch. I have seen them but couldn't find one locally when I changed ours.
Joe417 08/04/19 08:52pm Tech Issues
RE: How would you rate Palomino Brand truck campers

Had a used 8801. I liked how it was constructed because it was very light and easy to repair (I bought it with problems and re-built it). The truck didn't know it was back there. We had an '03 model built prior to Forest River and I found Quality wise(at least on our unit), they were as good as any other although may not have the luxuries some have. The issues we had were caused by poor maintenance. FYI, they aren't 4 season campers but ours did a far job at keeping us warm and cool. I would still have it but the wife fell in love with the space a basement and slide out adds. It did double the weight but she's happy.
Joe417 07/27/19 09:42pm Truck Campers
RE: Rubber roof repair with limited supplies

I wouldn't put the Eternabond on first and then put the strip on top. You would be putting holes in the backing of the tape. If I wanted to put it back the way it was, I would put Dicor across the joint temporarily. If you aren't pulling it around it will keep the water out until there was time to get the Butyl tape and re-seal it like it came from the factory. One tube should seal the rubber to the front cap temporarily. I would call putting a bead of the Dicor across it, bedding the termination strip in it and screwing it down and then covering it with the eternabond tape a permanent fix. If you clean it "real good" where the eternabond can stick to both the front cap and the rubber it wont leak. You said you have 40 ft. of tape which should be enough to make overlapping runs across the termination joint. As long as it is real clean it will seal it.
Joe417 07/25/19 08:33pm Tech Issues
RE: Electrical Short Whole Rig,

Easy to test the relay. Disconnect the wires from the relay and temporarily tie the inputs directly to the outputs of the relay. That will verify if the relay is the issue. Also, it isn't a short. It's an open.
Joe417 07/11/19 08:40pm Tech Issues
RE: A/C compressor will not shut off

I've had it happen on two different units. Both were the compressor relay. It could be the thermostat also. If you disconnect the compressor wire on the back of the thermostat you will know which is the problem. The relays are cheap if you can solder, otherwise it would require the whole control board.
Joe417 06/16/19 02:17pm Tech Issues
RE: Coleman Mach 3 thermostat retrofit

I went the route that RSL7201 went except I used a 40 Amp for the compressor and a 25 for the fan. I didn't cut any of the Coleman wiring. Just unplugged existing wires from the manual controls and made jumpers to route them to the new relays. All were slide on spade lugs. I put the fan relay on the low side only and still have a manually controlled high fan. That worked great for us as we only need the high fan to cool it down when we first stop somewhere. Once cooled, we turn the manual control back to low cool and the thermostat takes control of both the fan and compressor. Our camper is laminated polystyrene and I was able to make a flexible drill rod to make a path through the foam keeping the wiring in the ceiling and walls. My cost, from ebay, was about $15 + a thermostat from Lowes. I did the same to a neighbors Carrier unit, but had to removed his remote control hardware and had to run the thermostat wire across the ceiling using snap together wire hiding conduit that Lowes sells. It matched his ceiling well and isn't obtrusive. As RSL7201 said, use the SSR-40DA or SSR-50DA for the compressor. The SSR-25DA is fine for the fan.
Joe417 06/14/19 09:25pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Installing Progressive Dynamic converter

It's 6 AWG. The average crimpers don't do a good job for me so I usually solder the splice and the lugs and heat shrink anyway. That way no question about the connections. Hardware store probably has a butt splice that will fit if you have the crimpers large enough to do the job.
Joe417 06/06/19 08:28pm Truck Campers
RE: Dometic refrigerator keeps tripping the thermal limit switch

I haven't looked at a Dometic in years. Not sure what you mean by thermal limit switch. My Norcolds don't have one that I know of. I've heard other talk about an aftermarket limit device, not sure how it works. You didn't put your model number in the post. These guys need that to give you more specific info. The 5 amp is probably for the AC electric heating element. 3 amp for the controller board. Both fuses being blown is a bit confusing. If your controller board isn't getting power you can't run on gas either. When you replaced the fuses, did they blow again? You need to measure the resistance of the heating element. They vary depending on the model. All of mine were around 300 watts. Which would be about 50 ohms. That would make normal operation around 2.5A. If your blowing the 5A fuse yours would be around 25 ohms or less.
Joe417 06/03/19 08:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Loading/unloading on uneven ground

It won't be a problem if you level the truck first (especially side to side) as Maxum1989 said. My driveway was very un-level for years. I could get the TC in and out but it was a pain, very uncomfortable. I've learned a bit the hard way. I ended up bending the two right side jacks as they were on the low side and start to tilt the camper back to level as you raise it. I didn't "do the math" until I had damaged them. The jacks bow because they touch the ground inboard of vertical. As you raise the TC to level, the jacks won't slide, they bend slightly. I did it 4 or 5 times before the jacks were bent enough that the motors started pulling too much current and blow the right side fuse in the controller. Use some 2x's to level the truck and you should have no problems. I've built a pad for loading and unloading the TC, but haven't replaced the jacks yet. The gravel was much cheaper than a set of jacks.
Joe417 05/30/19 08:36pm Truck Campers
RE: Bug Deflectors to push air over

Great. Good for you.
Joe417 05/23/19 08:51pm Truck Campers
RE: “Service Temporarily Unavailable”

I started having similar issues a week or so ago. I go on to something else. Try to come back later. Some days/times are worse than others. Tonight I've had only one failure.
Joe417 05/22/19 09:31pm Tech Issues
RE: are RV microwave ovens the same as kitchen ones?

A difference I've noticed is that many RV microwaves don't have a clock feature. Kind of makes sense. Keeps you from having to reset the time when you power back up. Our home microwave will not operate until we set the time after power is restored.
Joe417 05/22/19 09:25pm Tech Issues
RE: Bug Deflectors to push air over

A friend made his out of vinyl contoured gutter with the back trimmed off and mounted upside down on the TC overhang with 3M automotive double sided adhesive. It was in a V shape from the middle of the overhang. It stayed on good with no screws. I don't remember all all the details. I think he posted it on here a couple years ago, but I couldn't find it. The difference it made was that it caught a lot of the bugs, keeping them from splattering the front wall in the truck bed. I don't remember how much clearance was above the cab. I planned on copying his but never did it. Maybe he'll read this post and put a picture on.
Joe417 05/22/19 09:15pm Truck Campers
RE: Trailer Electric Brakes shudder at low speed....Why?

My 2500HD started shuddering when under very heavy loads. Not sure if this is correct but, per some break info I found online, I think on PowerStop web page, they say that if you get the rotors very hot, such as down a very steep grade, and then stop the vehicle and hold the brakes applied after stopping, some of the metal from the pads bonds with metal of the rotor. Over time, this causes "hot spots" causing the pads to grab more in some spots on the rotor. When the pad grabs on one side and then grabs at a slightly different time on the other side as the wheels rotate you get shudder. When I had to keep my brakes on for extended braking, the shudder got worse. Depending on how hard I pressed the peddle, it would almost jerk the steering wheel out of my hands. Bad feeling when your rig doesn't want to stop. Let brakes cool and it would stop ok but I could still feel a slight shudder. I replaced all 4 with a set of heavy duty vented rotors and pads, followed their break in procedure, and I try not to hold the brakes on after stopping. All has been good since. Not sure if this issue could affect a trailer brake.
Joe417 04/26/19 09:42pm Tech Issues
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