Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Search
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'Joe417' found 44 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 3  
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Wireless Battery Voltage Meter

This is a bit more than just a voltmeter.
Joe417 08/13/19 09:05pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Fantastic Fan Installation Question

Be prepared. I know what happens and I still have flushed without turning the fan off.
Joe417 08/06/19 08:21pm Tech Issues
RE: new thermostat install problem

Put the Red on R/RC, cap the blue, and remove one of the fan speed wires. You only want one fan speed at a time. If you want to have both speeds available, install a small single pole double throw switch on the side of the thermostat housing which you would then select manually and the thermostat would turn it on and off.(You only need small wire for the fan as the thermostat should be controlling relays.) If you can find a thermostat with a fan speed switch built in you wouldn't have to add the switch. I have seen them but couldn't find one locally when I changed ours.
Joe417 08/04/19 08:52pm Tech Issues
RE: How would you rate Palomino Brand truck campers

Had a used 8801. I liked how it was constructed because it was very light and easy to repair (I bought it with problems and re-built it). The truck didn't know it was back there. We had an '03 model built prior to Forest River and I found Quality wise(at least on our unit), they were as good as any other although may not have the luxuries some have. The issues we had were caused by poor maintenance. FYI, they aren't 4 season campers but ours did a far job at keeping us warm and cool. I would still have it but the wife fell in love with the space a basement and slide out adds. It did double the weight but she's happy.
Joe417 07/27/19 09:42pm Truck Campers
RE: Rubber roof repair with limited supplies

I wouldn't put the Eternabond on first and then put the strip on top. You would be putting holes in the backing of the tape. If I wanted to put it back the way it was, I would put Dicor across the joint temporarily. If you aren't pulling it around it will keep the water out until there was time to get the Butyl tape and re-seal it like it came from the factory. One tube should seal the rubber to the front cap temporarily. I would call putting a bead of the Dicor across it, bedding the termination strip in it and screwing it down and then covering it with the eternabond tape a permanent fix. If you clean it "real good" where the eternabond can stick to both the front cap and the rubber it wont leak. You said you have 40 ft. of tape which should be enough to make overlapping runs across the termination joint. As long as it is real clean it will seal it.
Joe417 07/25/19 08:33pm Tech Issues
RE: Electrical Short Whole Rig,

Easy to test the relay. Disconnect the wires from the relay and temporarily tie the inputs directly to the outputs of the relay. That will verify if the relay is the issue. Also, it isn't a short. It's an open.
Joe417 07/11/19 08:40pm Tech Issues
RE: A/C compressor will not shut off

I've had it happen on two different units. Both were the compressor relay. It could be the thermostat also. If you disconnect the compressor wire on the back of the thermostat you will know which is the problem. The relays are cheap if you can solder, otherwise it would require the whole control board.
Joe417 06/16/19 02:17pm Tech Issues
RE: Coleman Mach 3 thermostat retrofit

I went the route that RSL7201 went except I used a 40 Amp for the compressor and a 25 for the fan. I didn't cut any of the Coleman wiring. Just unplugged existing wires from the manual controls and made jumpers to route them to the new relays. All were slide on spade lugs. I put the fan relay on the low side only and still have a manually controlled high fan. That worked great for us as we only need the high fan to cool it down when we first stop somewhere. Once cooled, we turn the manual control back to low cool and the thermostat takes control of both the fan and compressor. Our camper is laminated polystyrene and I was able to make a flexible drill rod to make a path through the foam keeping the wiring in the ceiling and walls. My cost, from ebay, was about $15 + a thermostat from Lowes. I did the same to a neighbors Carrier unit, but had to removed his remote control hardware and had to run the thermostat wire across the ceiling using snap together wire hiding conduit that Lowes sells. It matched his ceiling well and isn't obtrusive. As RSL7201 said, use the SSR-40DA or SSR-50DA for the compressor. The SSR-25DA is fine for the fan.
Joe417 06/14/19 09:25pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Installing Progressive Dynamic converter

It's 6 AWG. The average crimpers don't do a good job for me so I usually solder the splice and the lugs and heat shrink anyway. That way no question about the connections. Hardware store probably has a butt splice that will fit if you have the crimpers large enough to do the job.
Joe417 06/06/19 08:28pm Truck Campers
RE: Dometic refrigerator keeps tripping the thermal limit switch

I haven't looked at a Dometic in years. Not sure what you mean by thermal limit switch. My Norcolds don't have one that I know of. I've heard other talk about an aftermarket limit device, not sure how it works. You didn't put your model number in the post. These guys need that to give you more specific info. The 5 amp is probably for the AC electric heating element. 3 amp for the controller board. Both fuses being blown is a bit confusing. If your controller board isn't getting power you can't run on gas either. When you replaced the fuses, did they blow again? You need to measure the resistance of the heating element. They vary depending on the model. All of mine were around 300 watts. Which would be about 50 ohms. That would make normal operation around 2.5A. If your blowing the 5A fuse yours would be around 25 ohms or less.
Joe417 06/03/19 08:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Loading/unloading on uneven ground

It won't be a problem if you level the truck first (especially side to side) as Maxum1989 said. My driveway was very un-level for years. I could get the TC in and out but it was a pain, very uncomfortable. I've learned a bit the hard way. I ended up bending the two right side jacks as they were on the low side and start to tilt the camper back to level as you raise it. I didn't "do the math" until I had damaged them. The jacks bow because they touch the ground inboard of vertical. As you raise the TC to level, the jacks won't slide, they bend slightly. I did it 4 or 5 times before the jacks were bent enough that the motors started pulling too much current and blow the right side fuse in the controller. Use some 2x's to level the truck and you should have no problems. I've built a pad for loading and unloading the TC, but haven't replaced the jacks yet. The gravel was much cheaper than a set of jacks.
Joe417 05/30/19 08:36pm Truck Campers
RE: Bug Deflectors to push air over

Great. Good for you.
Joe417 05/23/19 08:51pm Truck Campers
RE: “Service Temporarily Unavailable”

I started having similar issues a week or so ago. I go on to something else. Try to come back later. Some days/times are worse than others. Tonight I've had only one failure.
Joe417 05/22/19 09:31pm Tech Issues
RE: are RV microwave ovens the same as kitchen ones?

A difference I've noticed is that many RV microwaves don't have a clock feature. Kind of makes sense. Keeps you from having to reset the time when you power back up. Our home microwave will not operate until we set the time after power is restored.
Joe417 05/22/19 09:25pm Tech Issues
RE: Bug Deflectors to push air over

A friend made his out of vinyl contoured gutter with the back trimmed off and mounted upside down on the TC overhang with 3M automotive double sided adhesive. It was in a V shape from the middle of the overhang. It stayed on good with no screws. I don't remember all all the details. I think he posted it on here a couple years ago, but I couldn't find it. The difference it made was that it caught a lot of the bugs, keeping them from splattering the front wall in the truck bed. I don't remember how much clearance was above the cab. I planned on copying his but never did it. Maybe he'll read this post and put a picture on.
Joe417 05/22/19 09:15pm Truck Campers
RE: Trailer Electric Brakes shudder at low speed....Why?

My 2500HD started shuddering when under very heavy loads. Not sure if this is correct but, per some break info I found online, I think on PowerStop web page, they say that if you get the rotors very hot, such as down a very steep grade, and then stop the vehicle and hold the brakes applied after stopping, some of the metal from the pads bonds with metal of the rotor. Over time, this causes "hot spots" causing the pads to grab more in some spots on the rotor. When the pad grabs on one side and then grabs at a slightly different time on the other side as the wheels rotate you get shudder. When I had to keep my brakes on for extended braking, the shudder got worse. Depending on how hard I pressed the peddle, it would almost jerk the steering wheel out of my hands. Bad feeling when your rig doesn't want to stop. Let brakes cool and it would stop ok but I could still feel a slight shudder. I replaced all 4 with a set of heavy duty vented rotors and pads, followed their break in procedure, and I try not to hold the brakes on after stopping. All has been good since. Not sure if this issue could affect a trailer brake.
Joe417 04/26/19 09:42pm Tech Issues
RE: Fridge does not come on.

The fridg requires DC 12V to operate. Everything is controlled using 12V circuits, even when plugged into 120V or running on gas. You said "it's all off". I take that to mean there is no display or light on the control panel. If the light inside comes on, you have 12V power getting to the fridg. On my Norcold there are 2 fuses on the control board under the plastic cover. One is for the 120V heating element and wouldn't stop it from working on gas. All are similar but not necessarily the same. If you aren't tech savvy, you are probably going to need to take it to a rv repair tech. They may not get to it for a while. I've had issues in the past where we just bought bags of ice and made it into an ice box for the rest of the trip. It won't keep it frozen but it will keep your food cold. A bit of a pain but usable.
Joe417 04/17/19 09:25pm Tech Issues
RE: Cabinet opening trim? A bit on the pricey side.
Joe417 04/16/19 08:17pm Truck Campers
RE: Shower Drain

When we first bought our Jayco (new)it stopped up on two occasions. Had to use a Flushmaster to free the clog of tissue. Learned to flush twice and had no more problems. About ten year later I had a leak on top of the tank so had to remove it for repair. Found a #3 Craftsmen screw driver lodged at the 45 degree bend in the toilet drain. A friend had the valve jam open after about 5 years on a camper he bought new. He found a plastic drink bottle in it. Like my screw driver, it was a gift from the guys who built it or someone who looked at it at the dealer before we bought them.
Joe417 03/25/19 08:40pm Tech Issues
RE: AC replacement

You may have already seen this but Airexcel(Coleman) has a ceiling plenum selector. The plenums fit any of their ACs. Adventure RV offers the Mach 8 with a non-ducted plenum for less than $1K. There's little price difference in plenums so if you decide exactly what you need and call them, they may make you a better offer than you see online.
Joe417 03/22/19 09:09pm Tech Issues
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 3  

New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2019 CWI, Inc. © 2019 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS