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 > Your search for posts made by 'KangaBunnyRoux' found 15 matches.

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RE: Tiffin or Fleetwood.

Only problem is Tiffin just sold to Thor. They have a reputation for not really caring about quality. Tiffin truly was a cut above but the sons weren't running it as well as Dad, and he came back...fixed it...then sold. They really listened and you could literally call Bob Tiffin and talk to them. I would look for a pre 2010 Tiffin myself.
KangaBunnyRoux 03/30/21 12:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Old Vs New Rig

My first rig was 19 years old (1985 purchased in 04). Second rig was 22 years old (1997 purchased 2018) with roughly same mileage. 34K miles. First one was updated with all new rubber, tires, hoses, belts and fluids when I bought her. She ran like a champ and I just kept the roof sealed, replaced stove and coach water pump. Had her 16 years camping on weekends and holidays, she sat for 2 and a tree ended her life. Fell right on the bed over cab portion. My 1997 Holiday Rambler was a great build year on same chassis as yours (F53), with Ford 460 engine. Both were high quality builds. I really like Bounders and the ones I know of were well equipped. Their paint was a bit rough in 80s and early 90s and they chalked and faded to a pinkish color but that can be restored using Zep floor sealer and polish. I've used that these past 7 years on both and it is a no rub, no buff, no yellow finish if you follow the correct applications of 4 light coats. I think the V10 can pull 5K total...but loading it with 5K exceeds the trailer hitch rating. Now if you can add electric brakes to the trailer I think you may be able to do it. My very first pull behind was a 69 Barth Junior (bought in 1996). Those electric brakes were wonderful and I actually used them to slow me coming down grades in Wyoming. I would not want 10K pounds pushing me from the rear. I will say the one thing drastically requiring replacement in my 97 Holiday Rambler was every brake component. And that was pricey. $3676 plus an additional 1K in other stuff. The rubber lines rotted from within. It stopped fine in the neighborhood. But above 45 to 55 mph? I roasted all the components. That was not a happy day. But now I have great confidence in the brakes. I freshened up the interior for 1K. I think I now have 36K miles on the engine and transmission. Plenty of life left. When I get it registered and inspected next I will replace transmission and coolant. Otherwise I've only had 2 oil changes, one cracked pipe and a ruined valve due to the freeze in Texas. I think they were much better built in the 90s.
KangaBunnyRoux 03/30/21 12:07pm Class A Motorhomes
Parting with my faithful Class C after 16 wonderful years

Well, my 1985 Jamboree Ralley finally closed her eyes for the final nap. 36 years old, bought in 2004, as third owner. First had her from manufacturer to 2003, next owner had for a year, decided he wanted a boat. I reckon RVs didn't break fast enough for him. Cause of death you ask? A large oak tree falling from waterlogged ground in Virginia. Landed right on the bed over cab, blew out the floor of the bed over part. Assumption is it broke up framing on roof. Cost to fix? $7,900 in visible damage, $1500 in unseen damage likely, Possibly impinged the frame of the van chassis. Insurance paid off handsomely as we remodeled, updated, new stove, materials, new awning...full of propane, AC and heat worked furnace worked...everything was cherry. Just sad. Hard to part with the old gal. Raised my daughter from the age of 3 going camping in her. May she rest in peace.
KangaBunnyRoux 02/27/21 01:23pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: What constitutes a "new" tire?

I too would be okay for 6 months. I look hard at my tires at 5 years and aim for full replacement at 7. Likely start swapping one each time inspected at year 5 so I don't get a killer 2K bill all at once. I just got a road hazard flat after rolling over what looks like a huge nail, maybe a spike of sorts. 2.5 years old from date of purchase, with 1670 miles on them. Awaiting claim decision on reimbursement. You need read that in another thread. It was quite an ordeal. Corporate is working it for me now. But talk about disconnects on a routine situation.
KangaBunnyRoux 02/27/21 01:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tire and Wheel Warrant issue - Unhappy

I think, rather I will take it as sarcastic humor, which I love. No hurt taken. I will say this: Corporate read, responded immediately, and aggressively investigated the situation. They reached out to me privately and we had a healthy discussion on the disconnects between instructions from the service center and the claims department. Moving forward I truly hope I am a part of fixing this. Corporate management definitely left me with the impression they are deeply engaged and changing the culture of disconnects with the program. New senior management teams are in place and dedicated to turning this around for the positive. Early AM I received correct pictures from both the Tire Warranty person and the service provider. They gave the courtesy of also sending them to claims and it was acknowledged. My tires are 2 years and 5 months old and have 1670 miles on them. I maintain pressure and never fail to check prior to driving. I put those miles on it driving to Texas and checked condition and pressure daily. Just how I roll. So I absolutely know there isn't any premature wear or heat damage. The pictures show a very large nail...almost a spike in the tire. My assumption is you just don't plug tires anymore, particularly on a 15000 pound motorhome. Heck if "we" (management and me as a 20 plus years Good Sam Affiliation) can turn this around I would gladly testify to this and even make a commercial for them touting the improvements.
KangaBunnyRoux 02/26/21 10:18am Good Sam Roadside Assistance
RE: weight on slide out

I see plenty folks do this. I think you could get a best guess estimate on weight after you remove them. Worst case, put in a pick up truck go get weighed, then swap for recliners and reweigh.
KangaBunnyRoux 02/25/21 01:23pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Tire and Wheel Warrant issue - Unhappy

Thank you Ella. I look forward to the contact. By n ow the tire is likely in a huge bin of tires. I am reaching out to the service provider to see if I can get the tire. I followed all the instructions of the Tire and Wheel center, paid a LARGE sum of money that should be covered between both roadside assistance and tire and wheel program. I can only assume if I purchased my own tire and called Roadside Assistance they would have responded and changed the tire for free. I would not mind paying $209 for a new tire...but having paid $129.99 for Tire and Wheel warranty...and the tire...and the labor, and the after hours fee even though it was bright daylight when I called...and triple the actual disposal fee...only to be told "No tire, no claim." Just unacceptable.
KangaBunnyRoux 02/25/21 12:21pm Good Sam Roadside Assistance
Tire and Wheel Warrant issue - Unhappy

Folks, I grew up respecting the Good Sam name. It was the "be-all end-all" of all things camping and RVing. As an adult I am a member of Good Sam in one fashion or another going on 20 years. Your roadside assistance took great care of me on my first long journey of 1670 miles beginning my full time adventure. Tire and Wheel warranty service? Oh what a tale to tell. Genuine roadside damage to a tire, some kind of a large nail in center of tread. I noticed it was low on air, used my generator and compressor to pump up. Felt like an accomplished RV guy. Next day, low on air, repeat, and searched high and low for a cause. I was in a camp ground, no driving on the tire. I could not find it, pumped up air and realized it was losing air as fast as I put it in. Searched tire, used soapy water, could not see a leak. Mind you the tire is only 2 years old with 1670 miles on her. Called roadside assistance, they said not them, it goes to tire warranty department. Tire warranty did not know how to help and insisted there is a third department called "Tire and Wheel" warranty service. Spoke to them, they seemed wonderful, helpful. They set up a service call during daylight hours. Informed me I paid up front for a tire and covered labor, taxes, and disposal fee, then filed for reimbursement. Key info here: Your Tire and Warranty person set this up, gave instructions, informed me the tire would be taken by the vendor, and she explained the disposal fee. I received the receipt at 5:27 PM, sun shining brightly. The truck did not show up until 8:10 PM, and it is now dark adding cost to the call for night time work. Great crew worked on my tire, immediately found the large nail, said it was not repairable (heavy motor home). The put new tire on rim, pumped up, I signed for the work and they departed. Following day I called the number given by the Tire and Warranty person. This is an incorrect number and the surly person on the line named Mark seemed irritated giving me another number. I apologized for following the directions texted by the Tire and Warranty person. I was given a new number, called, and they had trouble locating me by member number and phone number. Seemed odd, but okay. Kicker: Zach, Claims department third party subcontractor informs me I am required to take my tire in for inspection or take highly specific photos for them to evaluate. Further I am not to dispose of a tire with a hole in it until they clearly approve the claim. Mind you, the Tire and Warranty person set it up where the service tech took the tire, and she charged me the disposal fee of $10.50. Telling me I file for reimbursement even though the vendor only charged a $3 disposal fee. Zach, a third party subcontracted warranty administer stated my claim would ABSOLUTELY NOT be processed until I took the tire I do not have, (at direction of Tire and Warranty person). Zach says it is rule number one and he personally brought this to the attention of Good Sam many, many times. I also have this information in an email from Zach. I reached back to the Tire and Warranty person she assured me they will get the right photos and send to me to submit to claims. I am not a happy camper. I paid: $129.99 for this extra service. $209 for a new tire $274 Service call $28.75 Labor $10.50 disposal; technician charged $3 to Good Sam This is downright revolting. And now to deal with your claims contractor telling me in writing Tire and Warranty KNOWS I must keep tire. And charging me triple the actual disposal cost ? Your Tire and Warranty folks are preventing folks from making valid claims. By design? Sure seems a lot of folks get denied claims. My roadside assistance should have covered labor for the tire change and my upfront cost of $129.99 should have covered the cost of my $209 new tire. This is awful and sours me completely on Good Sam. Good Sam I want my $129.99 refunded. Or I want my $209.00 refunded. I will suck up the labor and excess cost. Very, very unhappy. I cannot help but feel Good Sam knows warranty claims cannot be made with out the tire and they direct service providers to take the tire.
KangaBunnyRoux 02/25/21 09:54am Good Sam Roadside Assistance
RE: 2005 Sixpac D850 tech questions?

Might mean one place to connect a drain hose, but two valves. Do you have two pull handles and one place to mount sewer hose? That is common. Under my sink is a water heater...technically a tank is that what you see?
KangaBunnyRoux 01/05/21 02:55pm Truck Campers
RE: ??? Full Body RV Re-Paint Job, 15 yrs old, its time ???

Wraps at 5k to 6K sound much better compared to 25K paint jobs. Honestly would a good detailer be able to buff out, polish, seal and rewax for about 3K? Maybe even $1500? I'm betting so. If you waxed each year and did not have defective paint to start with...I'm betting you could rejuvenate what you have and be much happier. Unless you have loads of money to throw away. More bang for the buck on the rub and polish.
KangaBunnyRoux 12/31/20 10:02am Tech Issues
RE: Manual Carefree Colorado Awning issue

Awning held. Looks like we had gusts through 23mph or so. Thankfully the 50 mph gusts have not materialized. Dropped from 72 to about 36 overnight. Talk about a temperature shift. Todays is mainly rain, desperately needed in San Antonio area.
KangaBunnyRoux 12/31/20 08:04am Tech Issues
RE: Manual Carefree Colorado Awning issue

Thanks for chiming in folks. Sure glad to get the info on securing the roller tube. May still lose awning tonight. I secured with as much "Thousand mile an hour" tape (reinforced duct tape) to keep the ends from catching air. I whacked on the lever a few times to engage the pin but didn't think to wrangle it more with my fingers to get it to engage. Wind is gusting away now. Just have to ride this out. We dropped 20 degrees in about a half hour. Expected to drop about 15 more over next few hours.
KangaBunnyRoux 12/30/20 04:29pm Tech Issues
RE: Manual Carefree Colorado Awning issue

Well my lock unlock lever seems to engage and un engage okay. If you are saying the internal to the tube part may have disconnected...I do think that may be what is happening. I've read horror stories about those springs under tension so wouldn't attempt that on my own. Is this something "whacking it with a hammer might break free? As I said the lever slides and moves the exterior mechanism quite well. But it has no effect on the "engaging tension" aspect I recall it having. At least I think that was what previously provided the tension and retracted the awning. It used to have a lot of tension. Now it is as flaccid as it gets.
KangaBunnyRoux 12/29/20 01:55pm Tech Issues
Manual Carefree Colorado Awning issue

Folks, My manual awning will not click into the "spring tension - roll up awning mode." I saw this addressed several times. Danged if I can get search function to give results. It has a manual Carefree Colorado awning, no motor. It semi worked when I opened meaning I had tension in the spring system, pulled on the fabric lead lines to deploy, etc. The locking arm lugs were toast, and no amount of WD 40, nut buster etc would free them up to lock the arms. Or banging on them I might add. But I had spring tension until I hit the lock button. With three days of 14 to 21 mph winds coming I decided to retract awning. I lowered the arms, hit "unlock" which memory serves as the point I should get tension in the spring, and the awning rolls up on its own as I hold the fabric guide rope/string/flat black lead. I got nothing. No tension. I checked and rechecked all other pieces. Locked and unlocked the sliding button. Nothing seemed to unlock and then engage the spring tension to roll up awning. Wind started picking up, I fought with it for 15 minutes or so, and settled on manually rolling it up, locking the arms to the sides mounted on the class A, and then using a good piece of wire to secure the arms at the top so wind doesn't get underneath and cause a parachute like drag yanking it open. Am I missing a step? What did I forget or screw up this time? Is there something in the tube I can spray with silicone? Is that maybe "froze up"? Been campings and deploying awnings for 16 years as a weekender. I am 59 days into full timing and I seem to break something or totally forget how something works every other day. SO I am by no means a Noobie. I am worse, a person who felt he knew his way around an RV and all the systems. Right now I am frustrated and feeling stupid.
KangaBunnyRoux 12/29/20 11:34am Tech Issues
RE: LED or other upgrade for 12v fluorescent light?

Yeah my 97 Holiday Rambler has the ice cold harsh flourescent tubes as well. I lean towards the warm 2700k temperature lights myself. Being an idiot when it comes to wiring I am not going to try this bypass the ballast thing. I need 15 inch diameter lights if I wish to buy and simply replace the entire lamp. Not a bad idea as I rather like some of the circular covers I see out there.
KangaBunnyRoux 12/11/20 01:02pm Class A Motorhomes
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