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RE: Tires - The 10 Year Rule

One salient fact that I inadvertently omitted was that I consistently put 8 to 9,000 miles a year on our coach. That means at 5 years I have 40,000+ miles on those tires and it is clearly time to start shopping for replacements. As noted above folks that don't use their rigs much, that spend most of their time sitting only exacerbate the potential for catastrophic tire failure {such as I experienced} due to the the low use tires "drying out"{for lack of a better description}. Yeah, I gathered that since you had such little tread left. I definitely envy you for that kind of RV mileage. Hopefully I'll be able to do the same someday. And now you bring to mind another thought... If tires spend most of their lives in a foggy place like Santa Cruz, will they dry out as quickly as those who spend their lives in Yuma? It's an interesting thought, but I'm in agreement. I don't want my family to be the beta tester for such a theory. It will be interesting to see what those 9+ year-old Toyos look like on the inside when they're replaced.
KendallP 09/25/21 12:05pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tires - The 10 Year Rule

Michelin guidelines. 1." Keep five years in mind After five years or more in use, your tires should be thoroughly inspected at least once per year by a professional. 2. Ten years is a maximum If the tires haven't been replaced 10 years after their date of manufacture, as a precaution, Michelin recommends replacing them with new tires. Even if they appear to be in usable condition and have not worn down to the tread wear indicator. This applies to spare tires as well". That said, AGE is not as much a concern as how often the tires are used. Tires have emmolients(lube) in the rubber. When tires are regularly driven those emmolients stay distributed thru the entire rubber. When they SIT for long periods(trailers and Boat trailers more common), the emmolients dry out and cause certain areas of the rubber to dry and have small cracks thru the tread. So, if you have a 7 year old RV or CAR and have less than 10k miles on it, REPLACE THE TIRES AS THEY ARE NOT SAFE. I replace my 1975 Corvette tires every 7 years which only has 31k original miles. I don't want to risk a blow out caused by drying out of the tires. Doug Yep. You said almost exactly the same thing 5 years ago in that thread I referenced in the O.P. In fact, I'm going to add your pdf to it for the benefit of future readers. However, it seems to be general tire specific. I wonder if commercial truck tires are made any differently. Some people seem to suggest that they are more robust than your average Honda car tire. At 99 lbs a piece, it sure seems like they may be. That said... they also undergo more severe punishment. Posted By: dougrainer on 05/18/16 02:37pm Tires should be replaced if 7 years or older. NO DOUBT ABOUT IT. IF you purchase Tire/Wheel ESC protection, guess what? IF your tires are older than 7 years, that protection will not pay for any tire problems as they will state, the tires are too old for proper usage. That is in the small fine print :B They state they are not in business to replace old marginal tires regardless of the Tread left on them. I replace my 1975 Corvette tires every 5 to 7 years, even tho the Car has only 29,000 miles on it. Having a blow out while hot rodding around and the possible damage to the car body is not worth the risk for me. Doug below is from a Tire Rack seller website. This is for just CAR tires that do not have the stress that RV tires would have. While American driving conditions don't include the high-speed challenges of the German Autobahn, Chrysler, Ford Motor Company and General Motors have joined their European colleagues by recommending that tires installed as Original Equipment be replaced after six years of service. Read this link. http://www.ntsb.gov/news/events/Documents/2014_Tire_Safety_SYM_Panel_4b_Kane.pdf .
KendallP 09/24/21 04:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tires - The 10 Year Rule

"So your codes showed 5.5 years at the time of the incident? Or...? " Yes, the three oldest were all 5.5 years old with 4/32" of tread and looked fine and all three were on the rear. I normally start shopping at five years but as noted, my bad, just lost track of how old they were getting. When I buy new tires I always have them put on the front and rotate the fronts to the rear. As noted in a subsequent post losing a rear is bad but a blowout on one of the fronts has a lot more potential for disaster. :C Roger that. I didn't realize you had already been on a 5 year maximum plan. I thought you started that subsequent to your incident. Seems like you're giving yourself a pretty good beating when most don't replace tires earlier than 6 or 7 years... and many go to 10... and some even longer. If anything, a blowout at 5 1/2 years would make me question the tire quality much more than my change-out plan.
KendallP 09/24/21 02:34pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tires - The 10 Year Rule

Others replace the steers every 5 and the drives every 10. Steers don't last longer? I'm guessing that was rhetorical? Because I was merely stating what I've seen in my research. It's not that the steers wear out faster. The reason to change out the steers earlier than the drives, is you're much less likely to lose control with a loss of a single drive tire on a dually motorhome than you are the loss of a steer tire. And changing a single pair of tires early offers a lot of safety bang for the buck... or at least... more peace of mind. Now there are those who have seen plenty of damage caused by a blown drive tire. But this is less of a safety issue and more of an insurance claim issue... so long as your tire doesn't cause harm to anyone else on the road.
KendallP 09/24/21 01:21pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tires - The 10 Year Rule

It was my bad losing track of the older tires DOT codes. IMO, Michelin makes the best all season crossover / SUV tire money can buy. The Defender LTX M/S. They're what I run on the DW's Highlander. New, they're 10.5/32 deep. I change 'em out at around 6/32 or so as winter approaches. An example of me erring on the side of caution where my wife and kids are concerned. I want to minimize hydroplaning. But their big, Class A tires have a terrible reputation. Not sure whether or not that carries over to smaller Class C tires. So your codes showed 5.5 years at the time of the incident? Or...?
KendallP 09/24/21 01:06pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tires - The 10 Year Rule

. You're a man of few words, path1 :)
KendallP 09/23/21 11:29pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tires: Date Code approaching 10 yrs. Toyo or Yokohama?

Centramatics work well, too, though they do cost a bit. It's the same basic concept as the beads, but in a separate piece. Bonus: you get a lovely little shuka-shuka sort of noise (in quadraphonic high fidelity) as you mosey around a campground at slow speeds. My 19 year old daughter is a huge Pink Floyd fan. Are you saying I should go with the Centramatics just for her???
KendallP 09/23/21 11:27pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tires: Date Code approaching 10 yrs. Toyo or Yokohama?

Good deal - only point I would add is there are new beads out now that don't absorb moisture, so clumping isn't an issue with those. As to them causing flats, I've never heard of that one, but maybe? That said, there certainly is nothing wrong with old school balancing! Yeah... With the talk of upselling and such with the new ownership of that company... it makes one take a bit of pause. But the overall price is inline with others if I had the tires shipped to them, so... One thing I like about them is... customer for life. You buy one set of tires from them and they'll rotate your others for free. Or at least... they used to. Haven't needed it from them in a little while. So we'll see. Hopefully a big purchase like this will keep us in their favor. But regardless... the price is fair for this region.
KendallP 09/23/21 11:26pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tires - The 10 Year Rule

I'm told that in some states tires over 8 years are considered hazardous. (NOTE I have made no effort to verify that. I replaced the tires shortly after being told that for other reasons. (They needed it) but that is what I was told. I've seen both 5 and 7 as the recommended replacent intervial Just now the motor home is in a bone yard (Long story. but not unhappy) And the car the insurance check paid for in full.. Tires are like 7 MONTHS old. Wow! I feel like that rig has been in your signature the entire time you've been a member here, no? When did this happen?
KendallP 09/23/21 03:32pm Class A Motorhomes
Tires - The 10 Year Rule

Hey gang, Regarding big, DP tires... I know most adhere to this rule and some prefer to replace tires within 7 years or so of date code. Others replace the steers every 5 and the drives every 10. Others still will have them all removed and the interiors inspected before giving up on them. Etc, etc... I'm inclined to err on the side of caution, myself, but I'm curious to hear your thoughts. And to see if anything has changed in the last 5 years since this thread. So given... 6 - Toyo M-154 265/75R22.5 tires with 10,000 miles Installed March of '13, but approaching 10 years of date code Babied and covered most of their lives, in beautiful (where visible) condition with no checks Entire lives in Santa Cruz with a very mild climate. Last couple of years undriven and parked without the jacks down and uncovered with driver's side facing south (the sun... and Central California coastal fog) On a Freightliner/Cat chassis running fairly close to GVWR / tire max Replacement cost - $3,100 What would you do? EDIT: Here's a good read posted by dougrainer 5 years ago. The study indicates 6 years is the maximum for safety. Though it appears to be general tire specific. No mention of commercial, one way or the other. http://www.ntsb.gov/news/events/Documents/2014_Tire_Safety_SYM_Panel_4b_Kane.pdf Also... some seem to indicate that commercial truck tires are more robust than RV tires, despite the size. I can say this... the Toyos are spec-ed at 99 lbs vs 90 for the OEM Michelins. All that said... they also undergo more severe punishment. .
KendallP 09/23/21 02:12pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tires: Date Code approaching 10 yrs. Toyo or Yokohama?

Well sometimes it comes down to what's available, eh? One tire shop is supposed to get me a quote on the Yokos today. I called quite a few local shops spanning 2 towns. For the Toyos, it looks like mlpeloquin was right. Schwab appears to be my best option in this area for those. Quote is $3,090.36 including old-school balancing for all 6 at a cost of 35 bucks each. So $2,880.36 unbalanced. Cheapest I could find them online was $410 and some change. About $2,463. So Schwab's price appears pretty fair. They said they won't do the beads. They said they can lead to flats. And if they get moist, they can gum up. So glad to hear so many positive comments about both. Sounds like it's hard to go wrong. Thanks everyone!
KendallP 09/23/21 10:54am Class A Motorhomes
Tires: Date Code approaching 10 yrs. Toyo or Yokohama?

Hey gang, The Rig: 2004 Winnebago Journey 34H DP on the Freightliner / Cat chassis running fairly close to the GVWR of 27,910 (10,410F & 17,500R) Original Tires: Michelin 255/80R22.5 (proprietary size) Current Tires: Toyo M-154 265/75R22.5 Installed March of 2013, but have a 2012 date code. Of course they appear to be in perfect shape with the standard, "whopping" 10,000 miles on them in all this time. They were babied and constantly covered. Zero checking. The rig runs super smooth down the road and I don't see any balancing on the 2013 invoice... though I'm leaning towards beads (with the appropriate stems) for their replacement. 1. I know most would have already replaced the steers a few years back, if not all 6. But I also hear folks talking about going over 10 years with tires in this kind of... exterior, visual shape. I'm inclined to err on the side of caution, but would like to hear your opinions. 2. I've narrowed the choices down to 2 models, primarily due to how closely they spec in size and load rating to the original Michelins; The aforementioned Toyo M-154s and the Yokohama RY103s. Both come in 265/75R22.5 and both are known to be made in the USA at last check. The tread appears to be a hair deeper on the Toyos... which MAY help in the rain, but it's not like that'll help with longevity on a motorhome. The tires spec at 99 and 98.3 lbs respectively. The Michelin at 90. I had come across ONE... post on another site where some guy said Les Schwab (a western U.S. company) quit carrying Toyo because Toyo switched rubber compounds with adverse effects. However, other posters state that it was Toyo who dropped Les Schwab, possibly because Schwab wouldn't agree to the Toyo warranty? Others still... believe it came down to a "profit deal" for Schwab. Were Toyos getting too expensive for them?... vs. their current Falkens / Sumitomos? So basically one poster out of a zillion... has called into question the quality of the Toyos for me. I understand FIRE UP is a fan of the RY103s. What are your thoughts on these 2 tires? And any others close to this size and price / quality range that I may have overlooked?
KendallP 09/22/21 03:28pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dry Camping Shower Valve Replacement

Thanks!
KendallP 09/21/21 10:51am Tech Issues
RE: Dry Camping Shower Valve Replacement

I would not want to tackle changing the main valve and an additional flow restrictor seems the best solution. Certainly it is simple and beats having a plumber do the work. You might want to look at replacing the shower head but the Oxygenics is not the way I would go. Look at the specs. It is designed to operate with a flow of at least 1 gallon/minute. When water conservation is needed I do an entire shower with 1 gallon. Good luck trying to get by with less than 3-5 gallons for a shower with the Oxygenics. I like the way you think. A quick search yielded this thread where most touted the Oxygenics as a good boondocker. But "good" might mean that gallon a minute you mentioned. When half would better. One guy does mention that he chokes his down to a trickle, though. I'm thinking of starting a separate thread since it's been determined that I was on the wrong path. I need a good, low flow shower head with a smooth, variable valve on a hose. Though I'm sure I can use the current hose.
KendallP 09/19/21 05:23pm Tech Issues
RE: Dry Camping Shower Valve Replacement

Some great ideas here, guys. I think the Ockham's version is the way to go for now. For 11 bucks or whatever... I'll start by trying out one of wa8's valves and see how it is to control the flow. Thanks!
KendallP 09/18/21 09:47pm Tech Issues
Dry Camping Shower Valve Replacement

Hey gang, The rig has your basic turn-counter-clockwise on to cold, further to warm, then hot. No flow rate adjustment. Specs say the valve is a Moen 62300 With a handle like this. It's not terrible for hookups, where you can just run the thing full bore until you're done. But it's basically about as bad as you can get for dry camping. Any thoughts on a relatively easy replacement? If I had my druthers, I would probably want some version of this Delta, like we have at home. Turn the temp dial all the way to hot until the hot water makes it to the valve. Then dial it in. Then from there you can turn it off while you lather up. Then back on with controlled flow... at your dialed-in temp... to rinse... and repeat as necessary until done. Here's the valve it uses But I'm definitely open to other suggestions. Even your classic Delta would work a lot better than what's there. One would just need to try and nail the temp again each time when turning it back on. But at least you could control the flow.
KendallP 09/17/21 06:05pm Tech Issues
RE: Xantrex Freedom 458 Plugged in 24/7 or Float Charger?

Yes, if properly programmed and you check battery water level occasionally, many of us DO leave them on 24/7. OK, thanks!
KendallP 09/10/21 03:13pm Tech Issues
Xantrex Freedom 458 Plugged in 24/7 or Float Charger?

Hey gang, Is there a detriment to this charger or the batteries from leaving it plugged in during storage rather than employing a lightweight, separate float charger? A little float charger can't really boil the batteries upon a "catastrophic" failure, for example. The Xantrex and it's controller don't appear prone to this sort of thing, but it certainly is capable of boiling the rest of the cells if one cell fails. The Xantrex in question is controlled by the standard Freedom Remote Control Panel. It's temperature sensitive, which is nice given in the hot summers. But also means it can float as high as 14.3v at freezing temps. I would need to refresh on whether or not that's a problem. And will the 458 and/or the control panel wear out any quicker from constant use?
KendallP 09/09/21 10:13pm Tech Issues
RE: SOLVED: ATS-5070 Transfer Switch - Shore Power Only

Parallax got back to me on the question of whether or not the ATS501 is a direct replacement for the 5070 vs the ATS503. Since post #14 was labeled "Solved," I went ahead and added this there too... "Hello Kendall, The easiest swap by far would be the ATS501. The ATS503 needs wire slack to be able to be connected and the chassis on the ATS503 is larger. You will need to go with the ATS501. Have a wonderful day Kendall, Bruce Jones Warranty Dept Parallax Power Supply"
KendallP 05/27/21 05:30pm Tech Issues
RE: SOLVED: ATS-5070 Transfer Switch - Shore Power Only

I like to clean my relays then saturate a Q Tip with spray silicone lube. I dab the lubricant onto hinge points and work the mechanism several times. 30 amp DPDT relays are hard to find down here and when one is found the price weakens my knees. Also on critical stuff I'll wipe DeOxit D100 across contact points. Special attention goes into making the relay enclosure moisture-tight. I don't imagine you could afford your knees any weaker, gramps. :) Thanks for the "tips." When MEX talks tech, the wise listen. Yeah, I wish I could get a better view of those hinge points without marking and de-lugging about 2 dozen heavy wires in order to remove those relays for study. And really... it doesn't act at all like a lube issue. It's like it unseats from the fulcrum, but again... I couldn't see where that fulcrum was. I suppose if it happens again... I'll be forced to remove the relays and assess. In which case, I will surely employ your maintenance methods. Thanks, old man. P.S. I sold my old rig. The buyer seemed impressed when I bragged on your hot-rodded alternator design with the Ford fan. Thanks again for that too. :)
KendallP 05/25/21 10:40am Tech Issues
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