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 > Your search for posts made by 'LarryJM' found 35 matches.

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RE: Slide topper noise dampening

Flapping noise, flapping noise!! So many make such a big deal about toppers and wind noise. Yes it can happen, mostly on very large slides. Big deal!! No damage, just a bit of noise!! If it's that windy, you'll be hearing the wind and other sounds outside of the rv anyway!! Our main slide topper is 169" long, and, yes, it does "flap" occasionally. Doesn't bother us, and it sure doesn't bother the woodland creatures!! So many noise "police" out there in their rvs! Sorry for the rant, but had to let off steam!! Any slide topper topic always has the NOISE'rs come out of their shells. AND if it really bothers you it's EXTREMELY SIMPLE AND CHEAP to solve. Just get some of the luggage wraps like below long enough to cover the slide topper and attach some paracord to each end long enough to go completely around your slide. Then in those very, very rare instances of high wind simple throw the wrap over the top of the slide and run the rope ends around the slide so the wrap can be cinched down on the topper to basically reduce the span subject to flapping in half and unless you're in a hurricane that should eliminate any "FLAPPING". In over 13 years and some 1,000 nights of camping I have encountered this flapping issue less than 5 times. Larry
LarryJM 01/21/21 12:27am General RVing Issues
RE: Smartplug Converstion

I dunno...sounds like a solution in search of a problem. In all my years of boating and RVing, I’ve never seen a reason to doubt the Marinco inlets and cordsets. May be there are problems with the China knockoffs, but I have always had the Marinco. yep ... regardless of how "SMART" all the cord and trailer end connectors are you still have that ultimate and generally unknown variable of the shore power box receptacle which in my almost 50 years of RVing has always been the "WEAK LINK" in the power supply system. Also generally I'm somewhat skeptical anytime I see a product with the word "SMART or INTELLIGENT" in it since that usually at least to me says that product is being marketed to those "DUMB" enough to believe that this "SMART or INTELLIGENT" product is actually "SMARTER or more INTELLIGENT" than what already exists. Further more these "SMART/INTELLIGENT" products often ignore other factors that were always the true weak or dumber aspects of whatever the product is advertised to "IMPROVE". IMHO the two "SMARTEST" things one can do in improving their 30 amp power system is to buy a 50A to 30A pigtail so you hook up to the shore power end at the 50A point and two if your trailer has the Marinco type connector is to get a 90 deg adapter to relieve the stress at the trailer side connection. I also like the Marinco type connectors since they are IMO more weatherproof and secure than a straight plug type connector. Larry
LarryJM 01/16/21 05:05am Travel Trailers
RE: new roof

the dealer said i needed a new roof. there is a soft area between the a/c and by the antenna. this trailer is only 6 years old and mostly sits in my driveway, very few miles. this is my 3rd trailer and have never replace a roof. no signs of any leaks inside at all. the dealer said they can not spot repair roof but would remove the rubber roof, replace the plywood decking as needed, and install new rubber roof. my question to the veteran rv'ers, is this correct? the ballpark number is around $7,000.00 has anybody been through this, is this for real. i love my trailers floorplan and since it is paid for, i would like to keep it. the dealer is a quality dealer, i've not heard anything bad about them, but the voices of experience carries alot of weight not to mention wisdom. thanks in advance for your thoughts. While it might be the dealers policy not to do spot repairs, that doesn't mean it can't be done at probably a very tiny fraction of what they quoted you. That ridiculous $7k cost probably includes replacing the entire wood since it's not good to try and remove the rubber and putting new rubber on wood that has had prior rubber membrane glued to it so you are paying to replace probably 75%+ of perfectly good roof to fix the 25% that is bad and the percentages of good are probably much higher than my 75% guesstimate. If it's the A/C that has leaked and damaged the roof the damage probably is less than 2 to 3' around the A/C and you wouldn't even have to go all the way to the roof edges to fix thus avoiding messing with the edge trim and roof overlayment to the sides on the sides of the trailer. Of course there is no way to know until one actual tears into the roof and assesses the actual damage. You can also get a ballpark idea of the damage by removing the inside A/C coverings and looking at the roof support for the A/C from the inside. IMO there is nothing wrong with removing the roof over the bad wood, replacing the wood and then putting new roof on that area and sealing the seams between the old and new roof material with Eternabond. While it will show a patch, IMO for a used trailer that fact should not effect the resale value that much as long as you document and take before and after pictures of the repair to show any new buyers what was done. I definitely think finding and using a good Mobil Tech to do this would be the best option to at least explore before paying $7K for a entire new roof. Larry
LarryJM 10/26/20 01:57am Travel Trailers
RE: Full Wall Slide parts source

Thanks GE, machine shop is a last resort. If it ends up at a machine shop I might have a number of gears madeup for resale "if" their is a demand. I also have the wonderful Atwood Leveleg levelers. I have serviced them a number of times and they are still 100% functional. I'm going to post some detailed docs on my slide/leveler adventures on my personal website. I do have ONE spare gear for the slide. I have see some AMAZING fully automated CNC machines here that have these automated tool cribs that automatically switches tool heads! Also, for those of you with like slide I have the teaching pendant for re-programming the slide. If you are in need for such a programmer please send me a PM. we can work out some type of loan. While not directly related to this topic I learned many decades ago about the issue of "orphened" parts on TTs and just recently purchased a "COMPLETE" replacement side out system for my slide out directly from the manufacturer for just under $650. That included all the moving parts, drive rods, mounting blocks/plates, connecting fittings/pins/etc. Bascially everything needed except the actual wiring to replace the entire drive mechanism on my slideout. I now carry this "package" as a "spare" should I ever need it. This approach might seem "extreme", but again I learned many decades ago that a single issue on the road can cost two, three or more times getting an emergency part even if it exists over just having potential parts already available should they ever be needed. I look at it as sort of a form of "insurance" and basically a sunk cost of owing older sysems subject to potential failures. My current system has given me ZERO issues in the 13 years of owning it and the biggest unique item is the drive motor and gearbox which is a standard part made and available from "Barker mfg." which I feel will be around for many years to come. Another suggestion is that you take the time and effort to get to the "REAL TECHNICIANS" and talk to them directly and you will find they are very willing to help and even "slip you" such things as installation/adjustment memos/directions that they use in either installing or repairing their systems whatever they might be. Stay away from the often ill informed "SALES" side of a manufacturer. These technical types often are the ones that put together items to be sent out to repair ships/dealers for servicing/repairing and already have shipping/ordering systems inplace with many time "special" prices and can include incidentals with an order not normally provided in general requests. as example of this can be such mundane things like coupling pins for fittings that are often destroyed or have to be replaced when doing a repair. Just something to consider and think about for those owning older RV units with unique parts when originally built. Larry
LarryJM 10/16/20 04:21am Tech Issues
RE: 2007 Holiday Rambler Augusta 29 Triple Slide

We are having problems with the battery for the slides etc going dead. We replaced it with a new one and that went dead as well. We think something is draining the battery but have not been able to locate the fuse box. Does anyone know where that might be?? A lot of the electric slide outs use a resetting CB and not a fuse. The CB should be within a couple of feet of the battery that powers the slide out. Mine is just behind the "A"-frame on the underside of the trailer. Larry
LarryJM 10/10/20 10:12pm Tech Issues
RE: Eternabonding the windows.....

Would the (minimal) thickness of the Eternabond interfere with the window seating properly on the butyl tape? I'm thinking it could leave a small gap between the window and the side of the RV. Maybe it would be better to just use the tape they use on houses? Instead of Eternabond if I was redoing a window I would wrap the opening like the OP suggested with 2"/3" wide aluminum tape. It's extremely thin and would make the opening basically waterproof. You would just have to be careful installing the window to avoid tearing the tape. Larry
LarryJM 10/08/20 04:46am Tech Issues
RE: Eternabond question

Most everyone on this forum including myself swears by Eternabond but "AZ EXPERT" who has a Youtube channel doesn't think much of Eternabond. I was shocked to hear some of his remarks. Check out his videos about Eternabond and you'll see what I mean. AZ Expert Eternabond Opinions He might be entitled to his opinion, but my opinion and now 12+ failure free years experience with Eternabond on my trailer in about every way one could imagine my opinion is AZ EXPERT is far from and expert and is again in my opinion bordering on being incompentent in using Eternabond if he has seen/had all the issues he claims. Larry
LarryJM 10/06/20 09:18am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: sway bar instructions

Me thinks that the mentioned issue/condition is strictly for the add-on friction sway bars and has nothing to do with all those popular and expensive hitches with anti-sway built in. The condition is that sway mechanisms keep the truck and trailer in line. When the tire traction is not great enough to overcome the resistance of the sway mechanism, skidding when turning will result. It does not matter what brand, style or price point is involved.Strictly speaking, I can't argue. I just don't think it's a thing with those "expensive" hitches, while there are various warnings when using the add-on anti-sway bar. This is confusing-at least in my mind..... I have an Equal-I-zer with 4 point sway control which uses friction at 4 points to address any sway issues. I do not understand how the effect of the systems are different. In other words, how can one system using friction be safe in slippery conditions, and another not? Since they both work to keep the trailer and the truck in line using the same principle, how can they be different? An email from Equal-I-zer tells me that it is not an issue, but they gave no explanation about how their system works in any conditions, while others are not safe and should be removed. Physics was always one of my best subjects, but I can't get my head around this one. Any engineers out there that can shed some light on this for me? IMO the issue and difference between what we are calling the "Friction Bar" system and all the other integrated WDH/Sway systems is that the "Friction" system using common brake pad material clamped on each side against a metal bar. This system has a much higher coefficient of friction inititally plus when wet can basically "stick or grab" at times. While all the metal on metal systems might have a higher initial coefficient of friction it's not near as high as with the brake pad to metal situation in the "Friction" type systems. This issue is also again IMO why one has to be very careful or even remove/loosen the "Friction" system when backing since the extreme inital angles that can occur when starting to back up can be much more stressful on the Friction system than others non brake pad based systems. This is really critical when the trailer and TV are at an large angle where the bar is already pulled out and you suddenly have the TV wheels turned all the way in the other direction which will force the bar back into the stationary part of the system and start backing up too quickly. This "extreme" condition can actually "BEND" the metal slide bar. All the above is admittedly just my opinion based on over 30 years of using a "Friction" type system and actually wearing as system out (i.e. one side of the brake material was worn down to where the side bar was making metal to metal contact where the brake material used to be) Larry
LarryJM 10/03/20 04:29am Travel Trailers
RE: Rubber roof repair-is this OK?

Posting for a neighbor who has owned many RV's and is very good about maintenance. He recently bought a used camper. The previous owner had a new fridge installed in this really well kept unit. The re and re appears to have been done by enlarging the hole through the roof where the fridge roof vent is. Whoever did the job used 3 or 4 pieces of rubber roof to seal the hole rather than one solid piece. The pieces of roofing are overlapping and well sealed with Dicor and appear to be in good condition, but my neighbor is a bit concerned. My take is that it is a bit unorthodox, but I would treat it like any other joint on the roof-keep an eye on it and reseal with Dicor whenever cracks appear. What do you think? I personally HATE caulking on a roof and would use Eternabond when and whereever possible. Caulking requires close periodic inspection and maintenance whereas Eternabond is very easy to inspect for integrity and is close to maintenance free for around 10 to 15 years. The single biggest drawback in Eternabond is IMO it's initial installation if caulking is already there since again IMO all previous caulking should be removed before applying the Eternabond for the best and longest lasting fix. Removing any caulking gives you the best full contact with the Eternabond microsealant to the surfaces you are actually trying to seal and not having Eternabond over lumpy and bulky caulking. I did my entire roof including the side roof seams back in 2008 and for the last 12 years I have only had to pay attention to the very front edge on the front cap seam that is exposed to road wind. I sealed that edge with a very thin bead of caulking that has had to be maintained since it has not lasted a long as the Eternabond it's protecting. Larry
LarryJM 09/28/20 02:47am Travel Trailers
RE: Fed up with tire blow outs!!!

All 3 tires did not blow at the same time. The first to go was the driver side rear. This weekend the passenger side rear blew on my way to the campground. On my way home the passenger side front went. Each time I heard the tire pop I pulled over immediately. Yep, and when the drivers rear went out, you immediately overloaded the other three tires. Repeat for the other two losses -- the remaining tire on that side Doesn't matter how quickly you reacted -- they still had to carry extra weight, and suddenly at speed. Unless they are torsion axles not true. A standard trailer with an equalizer between the springs distributes the weight between the axles evenly, that's why it's called an equalizer. However, the range of the equalizer function IMO won't compensate for for the loss of a tire nor is it designed to do so. Larry The distance the axle can move is quite a bit more than height of the sidewall of a tire. Again my previous statement clearly has the caveat IMO in it since I'm no expert and I don't see how that small "equalizer triangle that connects to two axles springs together would allow that much movement to ensure that each ground contact have equal weights on them. I just know I sure would not assume to be the case and I would still replace tires in pairs because of the excessive overloading should you loose one tire on a side of a tandem axle trailer. Larry
LarryJM 09/10/20 02:57pm Travel Trailers
RE: Fed up with tire blow outs!!!

All 3 tires did not blow at the same time. The first to go was the driver side rear. This weekend the passenger side rear blew on my way to the campground. On my way home the passenger side front went. Each time I heard the tire pop I pulled over immediately. Yep, and when the drivers rear went out, you immediately overloaded the other three tires. Repeat for the other two losses -- the remaining tire on that side Doesn't matter how quickly you reacted -- they still had to carry extra weight, and suddenly at speed. Unless they are torsion axles not true. A standard trailer with an equalizer between the springs distributes the weight between the axles evenly, that's why it's called an equalizer. However, the range of the equalizer function IMO won't compensate for for the loss of a tire nor is it designed to do so. Larry
LarryJM 09/09/20 10:01pm Travel Trailers
RE: Fed up with tire blow outs!!!

All 3 tires did not blow at the same time. The first to go was the driver side rear. This weekend the passenger side rear blew on my way to the campground. On my way home the passenger side front went. Each time I heard the tire pop I pulled over immediately. Yep, and when the drivers rear went out, you immediately overloaded the other three tires. Repeat for the other two losses -- the remaining tire on that side Doesn't matter how quickly you reacted -- they still had to carry extra weight, and suddenly at speed. I don't believe that loosing one tire on a tandem axle trailer overloads the two tires on the opposite side of the one where the tire failure occurred. However, as I discussed in my previous post it will definitely double the load on the one tire remaining on the side of the tire failure seriously compromising that tire I feel to the point that I would not trust it except as an emergency spare in the future and hence my thoughts that tires need to be replaced in pairs when you have a tire failure on a tandem axle trailer. Larry
LarryJM 09/09/20 02:06am Travel Trailers
RE: Fed up with tire blow outs!!!

This is my first RV so still learning everything. I have not had the tires balanced. One tire dealer did suggest going to 15" tires, he said those are much easier to find in D or E rated. But then I would have to get all new rims as well. I did not check the tire pressure before I left for this last trip this weekend. Guess that's another check list item before getting on the road. IMO folks having blowouts are running on compromised tires. The vast majority of new TT have tire that just barely meet the load requirements and while overloading can be a factor, under inflation hitting a road hazard like a curb or pothole can seriously reduce the max capacity dramatically and instantly. Also, having with a flat, blowout or running one tire underinflated will overload the other tire on that size, compromising it's load carrying capacity making that seemingly good tire unreliable down the road one the other tire is fixed/replaced. In the rare few flats I have had I always repace tires in pairs on whatever side of the trailer I have had an issue with. The last mistake folks often make is exceeding the speed limitations on whatever tire they are running which over time will reduce the load carrying capacity of the tires to the point that they become unreliable. With all that said if one pays particular attention to all the above I believe one can run whatever tire you want right up to the full load capacity of that tire reliably. Over the last 35+ years of towing multible trailers mainly with GY Marathons I have had my tires loaded to within 100lbs of their max load carrying capacity almost 100% of the time with out a single blowout or serious tread separation. My only bad experiences to date were with the one set of Kumho "D" rated tires I had along with some passenger related tires back in the 90's what were well over 5 to 8 years old and had well over 20K miles on them. Taking these two outlyers out of the equation in those 35+ years I have had two tire failures, one tread separation back in the mid 1980's on the road and one two flats, both from nails on on the road and one I noticed while in the campground during my pre departure walk around before leaving that day. After running GY marathons since 1995 did recently opt to move up to the GY Endurance load range D tires this last year when my existing Marathons got to be in the 5+ year age. Larry
LarryJM 09/08/20 03:36am Travel Trailers
RE: refrigerator door prop

We use towels, but the OP wanted suggestions on how to keep the doors ajar instead of fully open. Towels work to keep them cracked but not sure how they would work to keep the doors from coming all the way open. Two ways: 1. Make sure the trailer is slightly off level so the doors won't swing open by themselves. 2. Wedge both doors closed on the bath towel just enough so they stay closed --- that will sill allow air to get into both the refer sections. Larry
LarryJM 08/13/20 10:07pm General RVing Issues
RE: refrigerator door prop

Our new RV is great, but one draw back the fridge/freezer door has no catch to hold the door slightly ajar during storage. Any ideas on what to use. Can't use the magnet type, all plastic. Our storage parking spot is on a slight cant and the door swings open is not secured. Tried to contact Norcold, but no reply, to see if they could suggest something. It will be a while before we put it in storage, but don't want to wait till the last minute. Thoughts, remedies, ideas, links, any help is appreciated. thanks Drap a bath towel folded over several times lengthwise in the freezer and let it hang down between the refer door and the box and that will keep both doors slightly agar. Cost $0.00:B Lerry
LarryJM 08/13/20 09:37pm General RVing Issues
RE: What is your long term Dicor plan?

I didn't apply the curled Eternabond it was an RV that came in that way for a new roof. When we applied the new roof we went with two coats of the roll on adhesive and worked well for bonding to the roof. Plastic shrinks in UV light and thus the curling. If you guys are having good results though, I think you should use it. I like the smoothing out working into the surface back and forth with the Dicor and straight line masking. Well then your post is even more misleading since you have no idea how the Eternabond was applied originally. Also, your "ASSUMPTION" IMO a somewhat poor one at that is simply incorrect as it applies to the covering on Eternabond. I have more Eternabond on my roof than I would guess 99% of the posters here and after 12 years of it sitting uncovered outside not a single piece has curled/shrunk or come loose except for that very front edge on my front cap roof seam. All of it looks as good as the day back in the Spring of 2008 that I originally applied it. Larry
LarryJM 08/06/20 10:05am General RVing Issues
RE: What is your long term Dicor plan?

Thanks everyone! Regarding eternabond it's easy to get mixed reviews. Lots of online reviews of people having water work it's way under and it turns into a mess. IMO that statement about "LOTS OF ONLINE REVIEWS and WATER", is simply NOT TRUE. Unless it's improperly applied or the product is defective (Eternabond does have a shelf life of around 5 yrs), water simply will not work it's way under the tape. Larry I've witnessed it lifting. Yep actually curling up on the edges and then highway speeds make the curl catch wind and gradually pull loose enough exposing the damaged area underneath. It leaked. The plastic tape shrinks and curls then wind and suns heat does the rest.It turns to something I won't use.I've seen that too. On my own RV. It only happened once. I believe it was that evil bad run of product they had at one time. I've used probably 150' of the stuff over the years. I've also used the Dicor product. Eternabond is a much more permanent, and reliable solution. Your issue was improper application. Eternabond clearly states that when a leading edged is exposed perpendicular to the seam at uninterupted highway speeds that leading edge can come loose and they recommend applying a thin layer of sealant/caulk to that leading edge to prevent that issue. I had to do that on the very front strip on my front cap Eternabond strip to prevent it from coming loose. Also the poster complaining about the covering shrinking is again actually improperly applying the product since you absolutely cannot pull or "stretch" Eternabond over anything since the microsealant is elastic and will pull loose over time if under tension. Larry
LarryJM 08/05/20 05:15pm General RVing Issues
RE: What is your long term Dicor plan?

Thanks everyone! Regarding eternabond it's easy to get mixed reviews. Lots of online reviews of people having water work it's way under and it turns into a mess. IMO that statement about "LOTS OF ONLINE REVIEWS and WATER", is simply NOT TRUE. Unless it's improperly applied or the product is defective (Eternabond does have a shelf life of around 5 yrs), water simply will not work it's way under the tape. Larry
LarryJM 08/04/20 05:30pm General RVing Issues
RE: Deep metal "groaning sound" from hitch. Is this normal?

I have a Husky Center-line hitch, and it makes a lot of noise when you first start out, but does get a little better after awhile. A drop of lithe oil on the rub area seems to help, but I guess that nullifies it's main action. Mike Yeah that pretty well kills the swaycontrol NO TRUE AT ALL, if it's like the Equal-i-zer system where the friction on the WD bar to frame "L" brackets are secondary to the main sway control which is from the sockets on the hitch head assembly. Larry
LarryJM 07/17/20 12:27pm Travel Trailers
RE: Are RV sewer hose supports necessary?

I bought some white half round vinyl gutter from Lowe's to use as trays in my 2 vinyl fence post sewer hose carriers for sliding the hoses in and out. I use them to support the hose at the proper slope if needed. I use stacks of scrap wood pieces to support the gutters. I have and always use the same thing and also use my extra wheel chocks as supports for the gutter sections. I have two 10' gutter lengths cut into 8ft a 6ft and a 4ft length. The 8ft I store in my in vinyl fence post bumper along with my hoses and tank flushing wand. The other two I store in my rear pass thru. I like to use them since the not only give a good even slope from the trailer outlet to the sewer inlet. but also keep the sewer hose straight for best drainage and flushing. It takes no real extra time to set up and use them when connecting to the sewer. Larry
LarryJM 07/13/20 12:43am Beginning RVing
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