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 > Your search for posts made by 'LarryJM' found 14 matches.

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RE: Max Air Vent Cover Maintenance

My Maxx Air was installed by Open Range. They used Butyl tape and then self leveling caulk. And they broke the plastic at every one of the corners when the tightened down the screws. We don't plan on having this trailer much longer. At 12 years old it has bounced down the road enough times I don't want to go into retirement with it. Hopefully the new one will get the quick connect Maxx Air II's. If I'm understanding your post the folks at Open Range were idiots since the Max Air covers an NOT ATTACHED DIRECTLY to the roof. you attach brackets to the actual vertical part of the vent flange and then the Max Air cover is attached to that. The Max Air cover never actually touches the roof ... it sits about 1/4" off the roof so it's impossible for water to get trapped between the cover and the actual roof vent. Larry
LarryJM 07/15/21 11:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Tail light Sealant

I've had great success using 3M marine 4000UV sealant/adhesive. I like marine grade stuff since it is normally made for a harsher environment than what a typical RV sees. Larry
LarryJM 06/29/21 05:22pm Travel Trailers
RE: Looking for new tow vehicle

We test drove the van and it wasn't too bad. It was pretty bumpy though. Does it ride better once you get the weight of the camper on the back. As for the expedition or suburban. Expedition would be ideal but as someone said it is pricey and not sure we want to spend that on a car when we have 4 young kids (spilling drinks and food lol). I did do a quick search on Facebook market place and found an 2013 2500 suburban with only 69k miles on it. The 3/4 and especially 1T Vans generally have a HUGE payload and the tire sticker generally has the psi for max load and unloaded unless you inflate your tires based on actual load the ride can be a kidney killer for sure. Larry
LarryJM 06/22/21 05:28pm Travel Trailers
RE: Streak remover

The front of my 5er was still covered with Az. bug carcasses from last Dec.. I used a pressure washer to remove most of them and then I went in the house and found a Magic Eraser. NOTHING has ever worked faster or easier and it did no damage... just let the critters presoak a while. Then I went down the side and instantly removed all the black road splatter and grimy streaks. Any rough scrubbing will remove the wax but us RVers love to wax our second homes! Right? Craig Just be aware that Magic Erasers ARE ABRASIVE albiet very, very fine. Also if your RV has any sort of finish magic erasers ARE NOT recommended for delicate painted surfaces such as vehicles. The damage is cumulative and permanent. I would recommend either a cleaner wax like Mother's or an Ultimate finishing polish like Meguiars. Also waxes like Meguiars RV/Boat or Ultimate work with some elbow grease. IMO the secret is to use a good wax/sealant and do it once or twice a year so you actually protect the surface and finish and not have to resort to excessive and agressive cleaning. Larry
LarryJM 05/31/21 05:32am Tech Issues
RE: Best stabilization upgrade(s)?

The factory installed stabilizer jacks are simply in the wrong locations. I had four of the aluminum stack jacks that I kept from my last trailer and with some experimenting I found that if I put them about 6' in front and in back of the axles I didn't even need the factory ones which I removed and don't even have them on my trailer anymore. Now if you have a long trailer say 30' and have a major living area at the rear you might need something at that end, but all I have is a bedroom that is only used to sleep in so there is almost no walking around in the last 8' or so of my trailer. I had used these jacks on my previous 26' TT for over 25 years for a rock solid setup so I just felt their use had to help the poor stabilization with what came on our new trailer. As far as the forward/back movement I've never had that since I make sure my little cheapo wheel chocks and well planted against both sides of the wheels on both sides of the trailer (4 chocks total). IMHO the secret to stabilizing a trailer is the proper support locations and getting a good pressure on the jacks ... not lifting the trailer, but doing a similar procedure that even things like the Strong Arm site recommends with their product. I found the only way to do this was to use the tongue jack. Larry
LarryJM 05/05/21 05:28pm Travel Trailers
RE: Slide topper noise dampening

Flapping noise, flapping noise!! So many make such a big deal about toppers and wind noise. Yes it can happen, mostly on very large slides. Big deal!! No damage, just a bit of noise!! If it's that windy, you'll be hearing the wind and other sounds outside of the rv anyway!! Our main slide topper is 169" long, and, yes, it does "flap" occasionally. Doesn't bother us, and it sure doesn't bother the woodland creatures!! So many noise "police" out there in their rvs! Sorry for the rant, but had to let off steam!! Any slide topper topic always has the NOISE'rs come out of their shells. AND if it really bothers you it's EXTREMELY SIMPLE AND CHEAP to solve. Just get some of the luggage wraps like below long enough to cover the slide topper and attach some paracord to each end long enough to go completely around your slide. Then in those very, very rare instances of high wind simple throw the wrap over the top of the slide and run the rope ends around the slide so the wrap can be cinched down on the topper to basically reduce the span subject to flapping in half and unless you're in a hurricane that should eliminate any "FLAPPING". In over 13 years and some 1,000 nights of camping I have encountered this flapping issue less than 5 times. Larry
LarryJM 01/21/21 12:27am General RVing Issues
RE: Smartplug Converstion

I dunno...sounds like a solution in search of a problem. In all my years of boating and RVing, I’ve never seen a reason to doubt the Marinco inlets and cordsets. May be there are problems with the China knockoffs, but I have always had the Marinco. yep ... regardless of how "SMART" all the cord and trailer end connectors are you still have that ultimate and generally unknown variable of the shore power box receptacle which in my almost 50 years of RVing has always been the "WEAK LINK" in the power supply system. Also generally I'm somewhat skeptical anytime I see a product with the word "SMART or INTELLIGENT" in it since that usually at least to me says that product is being marketed to those "DUMB" enough to believe that this "SMART or INTELLIGENT" product is actually "SMARTER or more INTELLIGENT" than what already exists. Further more these "SMART/INTELLIGENT" products often ignore other factors that were always the true weak or dumber aspects of whatever the product is advertised to "IMPROVE". IMHO the two "SMARTEST" things one can do in improving their 30 amp power system is to buy a 50A to 30A pigtail so you hook up to the shore power end at the 50A point and two if your trailer has the Marinco type connector is to get a 90 deg adapter to relieve the stress at the trailer side connection. I also like the Marinco type connectors since they are IMO more weatherproof and secure than a straight plug type connector. Larry
LarryJM 01/16/21 05:05am Travel Trailers
RE: new roof

the dealer said i needed a new roof. there is a soft area between the a/c and by the antenna. this trailer is only 6 years old and mostly sits in my driveway, very few miles. this is my 3rd trailer and have never replace a roof. no signs of any leaks inside at all. the dealer said they can not spot repair roof but would remove the rubber roof, replace the plywood decking as needed, and install new rubber roof. my question to the veteran rv'ers, is this correct? the ballpark number is around $7,000.00 has anybody been through this, is this for real. i love my trailers floorplan and since it is paid for, i would like to keep it. the dealer is a quality dealer, i've not heard anything bad about them, but the voices of experience carries alot of weight not to mention wisdom. thanks in advance for your thoughts. While it might be the dealers policy not to do spot repairs, that doesn't mean it can't be done at probably a very tiny fraction of what they quoted you. That ridiculous $7k cost probably includes replacing the entire wood since it's not good to try and remove the rubber and putting new rubber on wood that has had prior rubber membrane glued to it so you are paying to replace probably 75%+ of perfectly good roof to fix the 25% that is bad and the percentages of good are probably much higher than my 75% guesstimate. If it's the A/C that has leaked and damaged the roof the damage probably is less than 2 to 3' around the A/C and you wouldn't even have to go all the way to the roof edges to fix thus avoiding messing with the edge trim and roof overlayment to the sides on the sides of the trailer. Of course there is no way to know until one actual tears into the roof and assesses the actual damage. You can also get a ballpark idea of the damage by removing the inside A/C coverings and looking at the roof support for the A/C from the inside. IMO there is nothing wrong with removing the roof over the bad wood, replacing the wood and then putting new roof on that area and sealing the seams between the old and new roof material with Eternabond. While it will show a patch, IMO for a used trailer that fact should not effect the resale value that much as long as you document and take before and after pictures of the repair to show any new buyers what was done. I definitely think finding and using a good Mobil Tech to do this would be the best option to at least explore before paying $7K for a entire new roof. Larry
LarryJM 10/26/20 01:57am Travel Trailers
RE: Full Wall Slide parts source

Thanks GE, machine shop is a last resort. If it ends up at a machine shop I might have a number of gears madeup for resale "if" their is a demand. I also have the wonderful Atwood Leveleg levelers. I have serviced them a number of times and they are still 100% functional. I'm going to post some detailed docs on my slide/leveler adventures on my personal website. I do have ONE spare gear for the slide. I have see some AMAZING fully automated CNC machines here that have these automated tool cribs that automatically switches tool heads! Also, for those of you with like slide I have the teaching pendant for re-programming the slide. If you are in need for such a programmer please send me a PM. we can work out some type of loan. While not directly related to this topic I learned many decades ago about the issue of "orphened" parts on TTs and just recently purchased a "COMPLETE" replacement side out system for my slide out directly from the manufacturer for just under $650. That included all the moving parts, drive rods, mounting blocks/plates, connecting fittings/pins/etc. Bascially everything needed except the actual wiring to replace the entire drive mechanism on my slideout. I now carry this "package" as a "spare" should I ever need it. This approach might seem "extreme", but again I learned many decades ago that a single issue on the road can cost two, three or more times getting an emergency part even if it exists over just having potential parts already available should they ever be needed. I look at it as sort of a form of "insurance" and basically a sunk cost of owing older sysems subject to potential failures. My current system has given me ZERO issues in the 13 years of owning it and the biggest unique item is the drive motor and gearbox which is a standard part made and available from "Barker mfg." which I feel will be around for many years to come. Another suggestion is that you take the time and effort to get to the "REAL TECHNICIANS" and talk to them directly and you will find they are very willing to help and even "slip you" such things as installation/adjustment memos/directions that they use in either installing or repairing their systems whatever they might be. Stay away from the often ill informed "SALES" side of a manufacturer. These technical types often are the ones that put together items to be sent out to repair ships/dealers for servicing/repairing and already have shipping/ordering systems inplace with many time "special" prices and can include incidentals with an order not normally provided in general requests. as example of this can be such mundane things like coupling pins for fittings that are often destroyed or have to be replaced when doing a repair. Just something to consider and think about for those owning older RV units with unique parts when originally built. Larry
LarryJM 10/16/20 04:21am Tech Issues
RE: 2007 Holiday Rambler Augusta 29 Triple Slide

We are having problems with the battery for the slides etc going dead. We replaced it with a new one and that went dead as well. We think something is draining the battery but have not been able to locate the fuse box. Does anyone know where that might be?? A lot of the electric slide outs use a resetting CB and not a fuse. The CB should be within a couple of feet of the battery that powers the slide out. Mine is just behind the "A"-frame on the underside of the trailer. Larry
LarryJM 10/10/20 10:12pm Tech Issues
RE: Eternabonding the windows.....

Would the (minimal) thickness of the Eternabond interfere with the window seating properly on the butyl tape? I'm thinking it could leave a small gap between the window and the side of the RV. Maybe it would be better to just use the tape they use on houses? Instead of Eternabond if I was redoing a window I would wrap the opening like the OP suggested with 2"/3" wide aluminum tape. It's extremely thin and would make the opening basically waterproof. You would just have to be careful installing the window to avoid tearing the tape. Larry
LarryJM 10/08/20 04:46am Tech Issues
RE: Eternabond question

Most everyone on this forum including myself swears by Eternabond but "AZ EXPERT" who has a Youtube channel doesn't think much of Eternabond. I was shocked to hear some of his remarks. Check out his videos about Eternabond and you'll see what I mean. AZ Expert Eternabond Opinions He might be entitled to his opinion, but my opinion and now 12+ failure free years experience with Eternabond on my trailer in about every way one could imagine my opinion is AZ EXPERT is far from and expert and is again in my opinion bordering on being incompentent in using Eternabond if he has seen/had all the issues he claims. Larry
LarryJM 10/06/20 09:18am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: sway bar instructions

Me thinks that the mentioned issue/condition is strictly for the add-on friction sway bars and has nothing to do with all those popular and expensive hitches with anti-sway built in. The condition is that sway mechanisms keep the truck and trailer in line. When the tire traction is not great enough to overcome the resistance of the sway mechanism, skidding when turning will result. It does not matter what brand, style or price point is involved.Strictly speaking, I can't argue. I just don't think it's a thing with those "expensive" hitches, while there are various warnings when using the add-on anti-sway bar. This is confusing-at least in my mind..... I have an Equal-I-zer with 4 point sway control which uses friction at 4 points to address any sway issues. I do not understand how the effect of the systems are different. In other words, how can one system using friction be safe in slippery conditions, and another not? Since they both work to keep the trailer and the truck in line using the same principle, how can they be different? An email from Equal-I-zer tells me that it is not an issue, but they gave no explanation about how their system works in any conditions, while others are not safe and should be removed. Physics was always one of my best subjects, but I can't get my head around this one. Any engineers out there that can shed some light on this for me? IMO the issue and difference between what we are calling the "Friction Bar" system and all the other integrated WDH/Sway systems is that the "Friction" system using common brake pad material clamped on each side against a metal bar. This system has a much higher coefficient of friction inititally plus when wet can basically "stick or grab" at times. While all the metal on metal systems might have a higher initial coefficient of friction it's not near as high as with the brake pad to metal situation in the "Friction" type systems. This issue is also again IMO why one has to be very careful or even remove/loosen the "Friction" system when backing since the extreme inital angles that can occur when starting to back up can be much more stressful on the Friction system than others non brake pad based systems. This is really critical when the trailer and TV are at an large angle where the bar is already pulled out and you suddenly have the TV wheels turned all the way in the other direction which will force the bar back into the stationary part of the system and start backing up too quickly. This "extreme" condition can actually "BEND" the metal slide bar. All the above is admittedly just my opinion based on over 30 years of using a "Friction" type system and actually wearing as system out (i.e. one side of the brake material was worn down to where the side bar was making metal to metal contact where the brake material used to be) Larry
LarryJM 10/03/20 04:29am Travel Trailers
RE: Rubber roof repair-is this OK?

Posting for a neighbor who has owned many RV's and is very good about maintenance. He recently bought a used camper. The previous owner had a new fridge installed in this really well kept unit. The re and re appears to have been done by enlarging the hole through the roof where the fridge roof vent is. Whoever did the job used 3 or 4 pieces of rubber roof to seal the hole rather than one solid piece. The pieces of roofing are overlapping and well sealed with Dicor and appear to be in good condition, but my neighbor is a bit concerned. My take is that it is a bit unorthodox, but I would treat it like any other joint on the roof-keep an eye on it and reseal with Dicor whenever cracks appear. What do you think? I personally HATE caulking on a roof and would use Eternabond when and whereever possible. Caulking requires close periodic inspection and maintenance whereas Eternabond is very easy to inspect for integrity and is close to maintenance free for around 10 to 15 years. The single biggest drawback in Eternabond is IMO it's initial installation if caulking is already there since again IMO all previous caulking should be removed before applying the Eternabond for the best and longest lasting fix. Removing any caulking gives you the best full contact with the Eternabond microsealant to the surfaces you are actually trying to seal and not having Eternabond over lumpy and bulky caulking. I did my entire roof including the side roof seams back in 2008 and for the last 12 years I have only had to pay attention to the very front edge on the front cap seam that is exposed to road wind. I sealed that edge with a very thin bead of caulking that has had to be maintained since it has not lasted a long as the Eternabond it's protecting. Larry
LarryJM 09/28/20 02:47am Travel Trailers
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