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 > Your search for posts made by 'LarryJM' found 31 matches.

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RE: Havent camped in 2 years

Don’t fret camp setup with your TT, Go slow, take breaks, devise a setup procedure. It’s mental, not physical. IMO the "GO SLOW and TAKE BREAKS" is the whole key. Now in my 70's I've learned you can do just about everything, it just takes much longer and not trying to do it all at once is a real key. It takes some retraining to get into a new rhythm of doing simple tasks in stages. For instance I used to wax my entire Van at once, then it was 1/2 one day, take a day off, 1/2 the next day, another day off and then the roof. Now it takes about 6 days, 1/4 each day and two days for the roof. I also almost always do stuff outside early in the A.M and never fight the heat if it's going to be hot that day. Larry
LarryJM 09/20/19 12:36am Travel Trailers
RE: Refrigerator Outside Vents

Hey jkwilson, which piece, top (finished piece of dark wood exposing gap at top of refrigerator) or bottom (splintered piece exposing fins)? OP cut out two different pieces. Are you saying he should have left both pieces alone? The section closing off the dead space on top of the actual refrigerator box should have been left there. It is required so an air pocket doesn't form which will acually block off/disrupt the flow of the air thru the coils on the back of the refrigerator. This problem is much like AFAIK the tailgate up/down when towing where leaving the tailgate up creates an air pocket in the bed of the pickup where the air flow then flows smoothly over this air pocket instead of forming a turbulance in the bed of the pickup causing more drag. The air pocket that can form over this dead space on top of the refer can force the flow of air up closest to the refer out from the back of the refer and result in less actual air flow over the fins which are located near the back of the actual refer. That is to say now the actual air flow is concentrated more near the wall of the trailer and less close to the actual back of the refer. Also, removing the other section along the outer wall of the trailer just inside the access door might also make air flow worse since now you are allowing air to escape to the outside thru the access door before it has a chance to flow over those top fins. I'm sure there are some specs on the sizing and positioning of that opening to maximize the air flow thru the fins is somewhere in the installation manual. It appears this installation doesn't have a top vent, but is vented thru that top access door if I'm understanding these pics correctly. IMO the OP definitely made matters worse when he removed both those sections and is why folks need to think a little before blindly modding their trailer. Things like applicance, A/C, heating, systems installed in trailers are designed sometimes with very unique and specific requirements which if not followed results in them not functioning to their specs or even causing a hazardous condition (i.e. fire, ventillation, etc.) Larry
LarryJM 09/17/19 03:51am Tech Issues
RE: Roll over

Looks like the 1/2 full fresh water tank in behind the axles which reduces the overall stability and sort of reminds me of a story on the R-Vision boards several years ago. That gent had towed his trailer for several years and always dumped before leaving the CG except one weekend the dump was closed and he left the CG with partially full tanks and lost control due to sway withing 10 mi of leaving the CG. Obviously other factors were involved, but it's possible this one additionally negative factor was the one that caused a marginally stable trailer (which probably appeared to be fine), with a VERY LARGE TAIL on a small to medium DOG to now become UNSTABLE and UNSAFE. This is all pure speculation, but does cause one to stop and reflect on what that previously was not considered possible to now be a actual possibility. Larry
LarryJM 09/17/19 12:13am Travel Trailers
RE: Goodyear Endurance long term review.

Not to be too critical, but if I only got about 25,000 miles out of my tires I don't think I'd buy more of the same. Especially if I had one that developed a flat spot, one slightly out of round, and one starting to crack. Would you be happy with tires like that on your car? I certainly wouldn't. IMO, a very mileading post showing almost a total lack of understanding in trying to compare ST type tires to those typically used on cars/POVs. As noted the tread depth is much less (about 50%) of that of the typical car/POV type tire. IMO the flat spot and cracking might be due to other factors not related to ST tire quality/durability. LarryThe point I was trying to make that why settle for ST tires with shorter lifeapan and issues they seem to have, when you can put LT tires on there and, basically, no longer have to worry. Why settle for substandard tires when you don't have to. You wouldn't settle for them on your car, why put up with them on your trailer. ST tires have no real benefits, and you put up with a shorter lifespan and quality issues. Thanks, but no thanks. Again you don't seem to understand that I would wagger that a VERY, VERY large percentage (probably 75% or greater) of all TT use 14in tires where LTs are simply not available or even exist. Couple that with a lot of factory axle spacing again even makes moving up to an LT tire which most are 16in is again not a trivial mod and I've not even addressed the width increases for LTs that might cause interference issues with things like wheel well trim or internal clearances. As far as putting up with shorter lifespan and quality issues, in the 40 years of TT ownership and using GY STs since the mid 90's except for one set of Kumho 857s I have only experienced tread separation and actual tire failures with the Kumho 857s and have never gotten less than 5 to 7 years use out of the STs I have used. While I might only be a data point of one, but that data point says all your worries is without any real foundation and not based on real world verifiable facts. Larry
LarryJM 09/05/19 08:04pm General RVing Issues
RE: Goodyear Endurance long term review.

Not to be too critical, but if I only got about 25,000 miles out of my tires I don't think I'd buy more of the same. Especially if I had one that developed a flat spot, one slightly out of round, and one starting to crack. Would you be happy with tires like that on your car? I certainly wouldn't. IMO, a very mileading post showing almost a total lack of understanding in trying to compare ST type tires to those typically used on cars/POVs. As noted the tread depth is much less (about 50%) of that of the typical car/POV type tire. IMO the flat spot and cracking might be due to other factors not related to ST tire quality/durability. Larry
LarryJM 09/05/19 04:32pm General RVing Issues
RE: Tongue jack collapsed, TT nose crashed down - ouch!

IMO the most dangerous time is when one unhooks the ball from the trailer and here is where an electric jack is a HUGE HELP. When doing this I always stand as far to the side and towards the trailer when raising the tongue to disconnect it from the ball and am ready to jump further out of the way side ways if necessary. Larry
LarryJM 08/27/19 04:40am Tech Issues
RE: Tires

You can't go wrong installing a set of Maxxis M8008 ST tires. They are available in 8 ply rating. Be sure to have them balanced. X2 though I cannot imagine buying any tire and not having it balanced. :h :C Many, Many and the VAST MAJORITY of trailer manufacturers do not balance the tires on trailers since there is no real reason except to make one feel good to do so. Larry
LarryJM 08/26/19 04:19am Travel Trailers
RE: Electric tongue jack. Good brand name?

Barker, mine is probably over 30 years old and on it's second trailer. Larry
LarryJM 08/23/19 04:50pm Tech Issues
RE: A/C on 116 volts?

I have one of these RV120VAC VOLTMETER (AMAZON) installed in one of my AC receptacles to alow me to watch the AC VOLTAGE all the time... This has the GREEN SCALE on it for easy viewing... That green scale is off quite a bit since anything above 105 volts is acceptable. I suggest buying a digital voltmeter. YEP IMO that meter is fairly worthless, but if it makes you feel good go for it:E Larry
LarryJM 08/09/19 05:00pm Tech Issues
RE: Nose Piece Waxing/Cleaning Bugs Off

I can't reach the top of the nose piece of my 5th wheel to clean the bugs off sufficiently or wax it with my 8 foot step ladder. If I could get closer it wouldn't be a problem but because I'm not going to lean the ladder against the nose where I could damage it I'm having a difficult time reaching. Using a long brush to wash it works fine but not for the finer detailing of it. If I was younger, I would just climb up on the roof, lay down and reach over the front to do the part I can't reach. We don't have an RV detailer in my area and I wouldn't trust some kid to do a decent job either. I'm stumped! Do any of you have any suggestions? Go to the linen closet and get two of the nicest and largest bath towels you can find, fold them and duct tape them to the ladder, then lean it against the cap. Do not tell your wife you're taking them. I do something similiar, but use an old blanket folded and then drapped over the top of a 8' step ladder and lay it against the front with most of the blanket between the ladder and the trailer to protect it from the ladder. Works great for reaching the top 1/3 of the trailer front especially for waxing and using an electric buffer after waxing. I tried using a 6' ladder, but the 8' works 10x better. Larry
LarryJM 08/03/19 08:09pm General RVing Issues
RE: Plastic wheel well trim looks horrible

While washing my 5th wheel I noticed that the plastic trim around the wheel wells still looks dirty although I have tried everything to get them clean. I washed them with different cleaners and even used my pressure washer on them, What can I do to get them looking good again? The 5th wheel is only a little over two years old. Thanks! Dave https://i.imgur.com/w13TPgel.jpg Personally, I would use either Colorbond or Plasti-Dip instead of any paint. I used Colorbond on my vinyl hose carrier back in about 2010 and Plasti-Dip around the same time on my ABS trim pieces (wheel well trim, LP tank cover, and even the aluminum skirting along the bottom of the trailer). Both have held up suprisingly well. I like these two options since you can periodically used 303 to add aditional protection. The Colorbond is permanent whereas the Plasti-Dip can be removed and refinished with something else. Larry
LarryJM 07/31/19 05:19pm Tech Issues
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