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 > Your search for posts made by 'MDKMDK' found 406 matches.

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RE: Things to do in Alaska?

Go to Homer. Nice little town. Side trip to Whittier through the tunnel. Then back on track and side trip to Seward, backtrack and on to Cooper Landing and Soldotna before hitting the Halibut Fishing Capital of the World (at least that's what it says on the sign). Camp in the Homer Spit municipal campground. It was around $15 night per spot, IIRC. No hookups, but the scenery can't be beat, and the eateries and shops are also plentiful along the spit. Visit the "Rum Locker" for supplies if so desired (ahem?). There's even a Starbucks and a McDonalds there. Basically, just explore the Kenai Peninsula. If you get lucky, the weather will be good.
MDKMDK 07/16/19 02:33pm RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: Missing camper found alive in White Mtns of Calif

Strange story, something about it doesn't seem right. Sounds similar to the Hawaii one a few months ago, which didn't make sense to me, either. Balloon boy?
MDKMDK 07/15/19 06:19pm Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Please read the signs....

I also agree that there are situations where you can't go any faster, and can't get out of the way, but not everyone gets that, was my point about road rage.
MDKMDK 07/15/19 03:50pm RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: Please read the signs....

To those who suggest that they "won't jeopardize the safety of others or my family" by trying to find a place to move over to let the waiting traffic pass, you may be doing just that. Consider this, that "road rage" does happen and it's been documented in varying degrees for decades. I would suggest that trying to justify blocking traffic by invoking the safety mantra means nothing to the wrong individual you may be holding up. When trapped behind a slower moving vehicle, I have been known to on occasion utter the phrase, "I don't mind if you want to drive slow, just don't do it in front of me". I'm not about to act upon that premise other than to wait for an opportunity to safely pass, but there are those out there in the real world that may do much more, given the right set of circumstances and conditions. Just playing Devil's Advocate here, no offense to those who have indicated their contrarian positions. Avoiding the motivation issues, what has historically made the Seward Highway (South from Los Anchorage to about Portage) one of the more dangerous highways is people passing on the 2-lane portions without waiting for either a 3 or 4 lane section or for a good passing area. For me, and I suspect most others, a slow driver going too slow is just a frustration to be dealt with, but because some folks simply don't deal well with that, they attempt to pass, often with tragic consequences on that stretch of highway. In that stretch mentioned, there are (rough count) about 5-7 identified pull-out spots for slow vehicles ("Delay of 5 or more must pull over") as well as a few more parking/scenic pull outs. I can't expect everyone to drive the speed limit nor would I expect anyone (RV, Semi-, Tow-truck) to pull over if it wasn't safe, but again yesterday, seeing an RV go from Indian to the Weigh Station at what probably averaged 40 (high of 55-60 in the few places with S/L of 65) without taking advantage of the pull-over spots was pretty frustrating to those of us in the group of about 15 behind that vehicle. As I mentioned in my first post in this thread, we were stuck behind a minivan going about 40mph on average and whose driver regularly passed by those pull outs you mention. It's not surprising that people get frustrated and make bad decisions, when the person blocking traffic refuses to avail themselves of the obvious means of mitigating that potential for disaster. Try to make better decisions when passing, and follow best practices for doing it safely.
MDKMDK 07/15/19 03:50pm RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: Keeping cool

How do other Class C owners stay cool in the hot summer months? Do you drive with generator on and air conditioner running? Or do you use the engine air conditioning on the road with generator off, and open the vents to release hot air when you stop? And does starting the A/C plugged in at a campsite with the roof vents open speed up the cooldown? We're returning to RVing after 10 years and trying to re-learn all the tricks. Once we plug in at a campsite and turn on the A/C high, it takes a while to get cool, but if we forget to turn it down, we'll be popsicles in the morning. We just use the dash air set to a reasonable temp like 20C (sorry Euro-thermostat), start if off on "recirculate", and close all the roof vents and windows. It seems pointless and self defeating to cool the interior air and then suck it out through open vents. When we leave the coach parked to run errands, we might fire up the generator and start the roof air to keep things cool while we're shopping or whatever. Of course, we try to be as far away from humanity as possible, if we choose this option, to reduce the "audible" annoyance. We were just out this afternoon/evening, and this methodology worked very well.
MDKMDK 07/14/19 07:37pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Please read the signs....

To those who suggest that they "won't jeopardize the safety of others or my family" by trying to find a place to move over to let the waiting traffic pass, you may be doing just that. Consider this, that "road rage" does happen and it's been documented in varying degrees for decades. I would suggest that trying to justify blocking traffic by invoking the safety mantra means nothing to the wrong individual you may be holding up. When trapped behind a slower moving vehicle, I have been known to on occasion utter the phrase, "I don't mind if you want to drive slow, just don't do it in front of me". I'm not about to act upon that premise other than to wait for an opportunity to safely pass, but there are those out there in the real world that may do much more, given the right set of circumstances and conditions. Just playing Devil's Advocate here, no offense to those who have indicated their contrarian positions.
MDKMDK 07/14/19 07:27pm RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: Good Sam poor road side assist

Nobody cares where you shop. What kind of response is that???????:RThe truth. This forum lets posts about bad experiences at all their businesses run until the activity stops or it devolves into inappropriate language and behavior. Only then are they closed. Even then, they are not deleted, only closed to future posting. They also monitor those threads and respond when appropriate. That is a whole lot more than most businesses allow. If closing a thread is the cause of someone refusing to patronize their business that is a prospective customer they are lucky to never have darken their doors. I was going to say "honest", but you beat me to it. :C
MDKMDK 07/13/19 07:49pm Good Sam Roadside Assistance
RE: 1976 Dodge Sportsman Motorhome

Just a guess, maybe a coach battery box/tray? You might want to google "owners manual" for your rig, and see if you can find one. I see a couple on eBay and elsewhere. Might help?
MDKMDK 07/12/19 09:18am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C steering stabilizer

Hello, Inquiring as to what brand of steering stabilizer most choose. I see the two most common are by Roadmaster and Safe-T-Plus. We are getting a new Rv on the E450, chassis length is 31 feet Thanks Marty All they are is a "return to center" set of helper springs that don't "stabilize" anything. I wouldn't waste my time or money on them. They're a gimmick, like those stovepipe things for your generator exhaust. Just pay attention to where you're aiming the rig, with the factory steering, and you'll be fine.
MDKMDK 07/12/19 06:46am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Please read the signs....

Suspect I'll ruffle some feathers...and I suspect this isn't the most correct audience for this post, but for RV'ers in Alaska, please read the road signs. The ones that seem to get ignored the most are: - "Keep Right Except to Pass" and - "Delay of 5 Vehicles or More Must Pull Over" Just got back from a trip over a good part of the road system (Glenn, Parks, Richardson, Seward highways) and it's pretty frustrating to see RV's going 50 (or so) in the left lane on the nice sections of the Parks and going 40 or so more or less from Girdwood to Anchorage, even on the 4-lane parts and where the speed limit is 65. The particular RV that I was stuck behind (I estimate I was No. 8) was holding up about 25 vehicles as best I could tell. It's not just the RVs that are "reading comprehension challenged". 3 years ago, a minivan (with Alaska tags) was traveling towards Anchorage on the Seward and had a posse of upwards of 50 or more cars/trucks/RVs blocked along the 2 lane section from the Whittier cutoff (Portage?) along the entire north shore of the Cook Inlet. I eventually got by, but the rest were stuck enjoying a lovely sub-speed limit stroll.
MDKMDK 07/11/19 05:31pm RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: Domectic AC Freeze control sensor issue

Hello, This past weekend our Dometic AC kept freezing up. We would let it thaw and it would freeze up yet again in hours. I called a local RV shop and they said it was low on Freon and had to be replaced. No other possible issues could cause it. My warranty expired on June 14th. I then called my dealer (over 3 hours away) and they also told me that IF it was a Freon leak the only solution was to replace. He stated that it could be other things as well such as the air mixing (hot & cold) because the divider was damaged. He suggested that I call Dometic and see if they could help in anyway. He also stated there was a 4 week or more wait to get into the shop. I called Dometic and they were very helpful. I explained the situation and the lady told me that since it didn't freeze up in less than an hour that it most likely was not low on Freon. She also informed me that they would extend my warranty for this issue. I explained that the shops 4 week minimum wait. She stated that make the appointment and they would extend the warranty through that date. KUDOS TO DOMETIC! I just had to provide the model and serial numbers to them. I went over to the RV and opened up the AC from the inside to access the data tag. When I did a wire with a yellow tag fell down. It was the Freeze Control Sensor. Apparently the end is supposed to be inserted one inch into the evaporator coil fins. I looked up a replacement wire and it has a flat tab on the end inserted into the coils. Mine does not so I'm guessing that the wire became disconnected somehow. https://i.imgur.com/UHMruCHl.jpg My questions: How does this sensor keep the AC from freezing up? Is there a defrost type of device that it controls? I guess what I'm looking for is what exactly does this sensor do and how does it work? Since the current wire does not seem to be complete I will order a replacement as the cost is only $20 to $26. How difficult is it to replace the entire wire? Where on the coils should it be inserted? The tag only states insert one inch into the coils. Since the wire was not connected to the coils am I safe in assuming that this is the problem? Should I make the appointment to take it to the dealer in four weeks and then go ahead and replace the wire while waiting? Thanks in advance for your comments! Dave If there isn't any "cancellation fee" for your RV shop, make the appointment and order the part(s). There's probably someone at Dometic that can walk you through replacing the wire, if you call them back. Or there may be a youtube vid or blog out there that demonstrates the procedure. If it fixes the problem, cancel the appointment. Cheaper than a shop visit?
MDKMDK 07/08/19 03:15pm Tech Issues
RE: Stopover between PEI and Maine

If you're coming out of NB at Houlton, there are some places near there, like Hartland with it's world's longest covered bridge.
MDKMDK 07/04/19 06:59am RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: Cracked water tank

https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=httSHnNXN10
MDKMDK 07/03/19 12:12pm Tech Issues
RE: Recommended Tow Set-Ups (Brands) for the Toad

For a better explanation: We will be doing a bit of off-road use, with the occasional use as city/town ( which we avoid)....and have a Suzuki Samurai! Hence the light weight!!! We will rarely use a conventional RV park/campground....mostly National Parks/BLM/State Parks/boondocking, ect. So.....we’re looking for a good tow set-up for the Samurai. We will be towing ....4-down! We’ll be looking for a hitch capable of 5K plus pounds, in the event we get “old” and change our lifestyle! Thanks again.....and sorry for the confusion! :) No worries, just wanted to get clarification on what you actually wanted. See my prior post on Blue Ox. Good stuff, great support.
MDKMDK 07/03/19 09:49am Class C Motorhomes
RE: AZ-UT boondocking loop

Just curious. Have they fixed Hwy 89 between the Tuba City cutoff and Cameron? It got washed out last year when were down that way, and created an even bigger detour/headache to get from GCNR to GCSR. It collapsed a few years back just south of Page, and it took years to get around to fixing that one, thus my question.
MDKMDK 07/03/19 09:31am Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Recommended Tow Set-Ups (Brands) for the Toad

Blue Ox. They can provide all the hardware you'll need to tow 4 down (flat, no dolly or trailer), and their product support is great, in my experience. I'm not sure how they fare as far as price goes, but I think they're worth it. OK, before we get any further into this, could the OP please define the topic a little more clearly? Topic: "> Recommended Tow Set-Ups (Brands) for the Toad" OP, does this mean you want suggestions for towing hardware brands, like Blue Ox or Roadmaster or Brake Buddy, or for other options for towing, like trailering or tow dollies? Comments "We’re finally getting a “Toad”, and would like opinions and suggestions. The “Toad” weight will be under 2500 pounds. We will be doing a lot of mountain towing! Thanks in advance for any and all help!" OP, does this mean you've already selected a toad that weighs under 2500 lbs? Most of the replies to your thread so far have been suggestions for the actual toad itself, which I think you've already selected. I read this topic to mean you wanted help with the towing hardware required to pull a 2500 lb toad, sometimes through the mountains. Your turn, memtb ......:?
MDKMDK 07/02/19 03:19pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Recommended Tow Set-Ups (Brands) for the Toad

Blue Ox. They can provide all the hardware you'll need to tow 4 down (flat, no dolly or trailer), and their product support is great, in my experience. I'm not sure how they fare as far as price goes, but I think they're worth it.
MDKMDK 07/02/19 06:53am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Can anyone recommend a tankless on demand water heater?

They do NOT make a 120 volt Tankless Water Heater for RV's. Doug Was thinking the same thing. The only way I can think of to get instant, high volume, continuous flow, hot water in an RV, is from a propane fired device like a Truma AquaGo Comfort Plus.
MDKMDK 07/02/19 06:48am Tech Issues
RE: What’s better in 12v batteries?

If you dry camp for an extended period what do you use? .400 amp hours of lithium. Got rid of acid tubs. Nice. :C
MDKMDK 06/30/19 12:34pm Tech Issues
RE: What’s better in 12v batteries?

Having a rat's nest of wires for little gain ain't where it' at Neither is being totally SOL with 2 6V GC2 batteries, if a single cell shorts in one of them. Better to have a few extra wires and some power, than no wires and no power? I choose door number one.
MDKMDK 06/30/19 12:33pm Tech Issues
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