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 > Your search for posts made by 'Microlite Mike' found 87 matches.

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RE: How to rotate dually pickup truck tires

The manual for my 2016 Ram 3500 dually shows tire rotation only side to side. Specifically, switch the driver front and the passenger front tires, switch the outer rear tires driver to passenger, and switch the inner rear tires driver to passenger. The picture in the manual showing how to rotate shows no rotation back to front. The manual really doesn’t explain why not to rotate back to front. It does say the rear tires must be matched for wear. Possibly the concern is that if tires are moved back to front that wear won’t match. The manual does explain why it says to keep the inner rear wheels inner and outer rear wheels outer. It is for the Tire Pressure Information System. To quote, "The Tire Pressure Information System uses unique sensors in the inner rear wheels to help identify them from the outer rear wheels, because of this, the inner and outer wheel locations cannot be switched". With my last tires it turned out that I had an alignment problem (now fixed) that I wasn’t aware of until I noticed that the tires were wearing unevenly. Since I was rotating the front tires only side to side both front tires wore unevenly on the outer edges. By the time I noticed this the tires were unsafe and I had to replace the tires probably 6,000 or 8,000 miles early. I had to have the tires replaced during a trip. I ended up at a tire shop in a rural area that seemed to have plenty of experience with duallys. He told me to ignore the manual. He said that they rotate back to front all the time. He says they take the best looking tires from the back and put them on the front. If I had rotated like that it would have stalled the uneven wear that killed my last tires. I am about to get the new tires rotated for the first time. I have been telling the mechanic to follow the manual. I am now totally unclear what to do. It would seem that only rotating side to side in the same positions really isn’t going to help much because every other rotation the tires end up back in the same location. It could be what the manual says that if you don’t keep the inner tires inner and outer tires outer it will confuse the Tire Pressure Information System. But really how important is that? It is nice to have the tire pressures in the instrument cluster because I look at the pressures frequently as I drive, much more often than I would find myself checking tire pressure manually. But I don’t care much about location. If a tire is low (something that actually has never happened yet) I can find out which one by checking the tires manually. Any opinions about the best answer to this question? Only switch side to side as the manual says, or rotate front to back at the tire place service manager said? Note: I already posted this to the truck camper forum. But I am dropping the truck in for service tomorrow and am still unclear what to do. Please excuse my posting twice. I know you are not supposed to that that but I am still unclear what to do. Tires in dual service MUST be equal not only in wear, but in diameter (ideally in circumference as well). Slight differences make for some nasty wear and sometimes premature failure. Fronts are subjected to all kinds of wear forces so no go to rear in duals.
Microlite Mike 08/06/22 10:03pm Tech Issues
RE: Windows 11 ..headaches..

But I want to use the computers internal built in speakers as well as an amplifier connected to the audio line out jack. I would guess that all computers work the same way. At least on my desktop, 2 laptops, and tablet. The audio is either in OR out. The switchover is mechanical, not electrical. The act of plugging in changes the audio output from in to out. On one of my laptops, when pushing in a headphone plug, there is a place where BOTH will operate at the same time. The audio output socket has mechanical contacts that are "make before break". In other words, the audio outputs are BOTH made (make) before one (inside) is break (switched over). Using an external speaker or headphones, SLOWLY push in the plug and see if there is a point where both will be on at the same time. It works for me. Good luck. Tim I had an old dinosaur desktops and even an old laptop that had two audio outputs. One for headphones that disconnected the internal speakers when headphones were plugged in and the other was marked "Line" that provided audio to an external amplifier if desired. The 'line output' disappeared as I upgraded to laptops exclusively. Haven't had a desktop/all-in-one since somewhere back in the early 90's. I used "Docking Stations" when I wanted more outputs.
Microlite Mike 08/02/22 05:19pm Technology Corner
RE: How to REMOVE brake drum races using a shop press?

Maybe try this non existent tool'd rather spend the 13.00 on beer for after I finish the job using a drift... Heck, in a pinch, I have used a screwdriver. Agree on the beer and using a screwdriver. Over the years I've actually found that a screwdriver actually got more "grip" on the race, depending on the hub. Problem with this tool, and the bearing races they are supposed to pull, is that there is no room behind the race, where it is pressed into the hub' for it to grip. The tool is for "Sleeve Type Bearings" where there is plenty of room for the 'fingers" to reach through and grip the EXPOSED surface of the sleeve. Even if the fingers fit thorough the race (maybe the rear but good luck on the front), setting up the tool would take more time than a drift punch and hammer.
Microlite Mike 08/02/22 05:07pm Travel Trailers
RE: Ground material falling into lower storage compartment

My 2018 model MicroLite came with about a gallon of sawdust included at no charge. Pretty much evenly divided among all storage compartments as well as hidden spaces. After a week of work with a vacuum cleaner I THOUGHT I had it cleaned up. Foolish thought as road vibration kept shaking more and more out of nooks and crannies. It's been 5 years since I brought it home along with approximately 40,000 or so miles I think it is NOW all gone. When I red "beige, granular, substance", that's exactly what I found. Sawdust is pretty easy to "diagnose". Fill a bowl with water, spread some on top of the water, and leave overnight. If sawdust it will first float, and with time the granules will swell up much larger. Since it's a Rockwood, a Forest River product, my money is on "sawdust". They find it easier to just leave in their finished products rather than increase the amount of waste they have to pay disposal fees on.
Microlite Mike 08/02/22 05:00pm Travel Trailers
RE: Who has removed bell cranks?

Those OEM bushed bell cranks were a piece of junk from the start. Bushings need a little clearance to perform properly. The bearing bell cranks from Henderson have no clearance (play). There is a lot of pressure on those bell cranks to change the steering motion 90°, thus slop in the steering wheel. You did a good thing spending a few $$ with Henderson. Richard And the pressure when turning steering wheel back and forth while sitting still is even greater than when driving down the road. It takes plenty of effort to move a rolling wheel to steer but when the tire is gripping the floor/pavement while checking for play it takes even more.
Microlite Mike 07/31/22 09:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: How to REMOVE brake drum races using a shop press?

Hello all-- I wanted to see if anyone has a method for removing brake drum/hub bearing races from trailer brake drums using a simple shop press. I know there are kits that use machined alum discs of various sizes to install races and seals (either with a hammer, press, and air hammer) but have never seen how to remove them using a shop press. I know how to remove races using a brass drift and hammer. You must access race at an angle, as the race can not be hit vertically with the drift. This is what makes using a press a challenge. can races be removed from brake drums using a shop press? Maybe it's so simple, I can't see it or think of it!!! Thanks! You listed pretty much all the reasons why it's too difficult to bother. I've been using shop presses for over six decades and I can add a couple reasons to the list: Shop presses are usually used to store all kinds of junk when not in use or are behind junk stored in front of them. You have to adjust press beam to the right height. If you don't want to bend hub/drum/disc you have to find a suitable backing device. The action of the press is usually very slow. By the time one gets the press cleared out/off, set up, and race pressed out (different setup for front and rear races) the average person could have all the races "punched" out of all four hubs/drums/disc's and well on their way to just installing with a proper tool (kit is about $50 or less on amazon for races and seals) Shop presses are for gears and press on axle bearings. A waste of time for wheel bearing races. Might be useful on large truck and off road equipment hubs but usually a portable hydraulic puller kit is more practical.
Microlite Mike 07/31/22 09:14pm Travel Trailers
RE: Generator Security

Securing the generator with either a stout chain or heavy duty cable, as well as a "bolt cutter resistant" padlock will do the job. Most thieves are after targets of opportunity and will grab the generator cleverly hidden under a picnic table, under a tarp, or in a pickup bed with no 'tether'. Last time I went to Quartzsite I saw all kinds of generators with nothing securing them and some that had nothing more than a dog tether chain that could be cut with diagonal cutters. Just remember, thieves will first go for the easy score. Then, if they really want something, you can't secure it well enough. For that event, there's insurance.
Microlite Mike 07/27/22 08:02pm Tech Issues
RE: Lithium Battery Charging System

Smart to stay with wet cell batteries. The more the other types are sold the less expensive wet cells become. Adjusting for inflation of course. A big plus for me is not worrying over my batteries and any potential hazard. With LiFePo4 batteries there are actually fewer hazards than with "Wet Cell" batteries. No electrolyte to spill, no explosive gases to vent, no corrosion, freedom to mount in ANY position or ANY location. As for price? Add the extended lifetime of a LiFePo4 battery, compared of a "wet cell" and the lifetime cost goes way down. Going forward heavy lead acid chemistry batteries are going to be less and less desirable for all as fuel prices go up and the need for lighter RV's goes up as well. A 100 ah battery that weighs 25-30 lbs with up to 100% usable capacity or a 60+ lb battery with only 50% usable capacity recommended? Fuel consumption and load weight go hand in hand. As load weight goes up the need for more btu's to create horsepower will increase. That means more fuel burned. To think otherwise is just wishful thinking. BTW, the resistance to change, accepting new technology is pretty much the "American Way". People were so resistant to changing to automobiles they even passed laws making it difficult for people to use those "newfangled devices" and figured horses were good enough.
Microlite Mike 07/23/22 03:18pm Truck Campers
RE: Piece of **** inept motorists!

If you confronted him, he more than likely would have said it was your fault for being in his way:(Yes if lucky. Otherwise could be headed for a beat down or worse. Who could be headed for a beat down? Grit Dog? From reading some of his past posts, and deducing from those as to what his occupation is, me thinks he is not going to take much of a beat down from some gas station wussy. Beat downs are "so yesterday". Today, just like happened Thursday in Seattle, you confront another driver over a "driving issue" and the other driver might just shoot and kill you. If you confronted them they just claim "Self Defense" and the police don't even arrest you. This is the cell phone era. Take pictures/videos, don't threaten, if there's the risk of escalation call police or just report it afterward. I carry insurance to deal with issues like described and provide offending party's license number if necessary.
Microlite Mike 07/23/22 03:00pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Micro Minnie manual slide out

Can’t find the port to attach manual crank. Micro Minnie 2019, 2108DS. SOME SAY IT SHOULD BE OPPOSITE SLIDE, In big frame. Help, please. On through frame slide actuators, the manual operating shaft may or may not extend fully through the frame from the gearbox. Some have a short extension with a hex head that allows the slide to be operated with a socket and ratchet. Others have an adapter with a length of shaft attached that extends through the frame and can be accessed with a crank handle without having to get under the trailer. When slide is out, locate the actuator (round tube that goes back into the frame. The manual operator "port" is on the end farthest away from the slide itself. On mine it's hidden behind the folding stairs.
Microlite Mike 07/23/22 11:16am Travel Trailers
RE: Easy Start By Micro Air

From Micro Air's website: "Generators with 80CC and smaller engines are not recommended with 13.5K BTU and larger compressors. All other loads must be off when operating this close to a generator’s limit." I mention this because a lot of inverter generators in the 2KW size range use 80CC engines - Champion, Yamaha, Wen, Harbor Freight, etc. The Honda EU2000i models use a 100CC engine. The EU2200i models use a 120CC engine - a full 1/3rd larger than 80CC models. I have the Easy Start installed on my 13,500 btu A/C and power it with a Champion 2500 w Inverter generator. Does fine and will even start A/C when on 'Eco". Don't know what size engine in my 2500W Champion Inverter but I do know it's enough to run my A/C. Perhaps not for a 15,000 btu model though. One thing worthy of note is that the A/C with Easy Start installed my A/C starts without the loud "jolt" even on shore power. Doesn't wake everyone in the TT when A/C cycles on in the middle of the night.
Microlite Mike 07/20/22 09:49am Tech Issues
RE: Do you pull your taillight housings monthly?

Sounds like either they build a crappy truck or want you to pay for a bogus service. Or someone on a forum is playing you. Things up north rust out real quick with salt use but that is rediculous. Crappy truck yes. It's getting its fourth set of AFM lifters after seizing one at 103,000, a second at 140,750 and a third at 141250. Yes, it only ran 500 miles this last time before seizing a lifter again. This was a forum guy telling me what *I* should have been doing to prevent the rust. Basically blaming me for the truck rusting out already. They also figured out how to make it my fault that the AFM lifters seized. It's a really crappy forum. Last summer I decided I needed a pickup vs SUV when I lost my wife. I looked at all three and ruled out the GM's because of this known issue and the RAM's because of the cam issues. I ruled out GM products back in the early 90's when I watched the paint on our company's fleet of chev/gmc vehicles have paint peel off in sheets. It was like their paint jobs were merely lousy 'wraps".
Microlite Mike 07/20/22 09:42am Tow Vehicles
RE: cross winds?

I just adjust my friction sway control for regular driving and dealing with passing trucks, etc. When side/crossing wind becomes an issue the best measure is to slow down. This gives you more time to react and adjust when hit with a gust than at higher speeds.
Microlite Mike 07/19/22 07:40pm Towing
RE: Can I get on my roof?

My general rule of thumb is if the TT/MH came with a ladder, the roof is "walkable". That said, putting down something like the foam insulation panels mentioned is a great idea. Not only helps distribute weight but protects the roof membrane from possible damage. Just changing directions while walking, twisting your shoe(s) on the membrane, might cause wrinkling. Also much easier on the knees which most will spend a lot of time on them while doing roof maintenance.
Microlite Mike 07/19/22 08:55am Travel Trailers
RE: McCall, ID to Idaho Falls Avoiding Boise

Just remember that "Summertime" is also "Construction Season". Avoiding the Interstate highway means smaller roads often with only a single lane in each direction. When you hit construction zones they are often single lane with a pilot car and can often have waits up to an hour before the pilot car is ready to take you in the direction you want to go. My late wife and I made the same trip back in the late 90's and were lucky enough to encounter two of those situations as we traveled the back roads to Idaho Falls from McCall. At least while towing our trailer we had our kitchen and bathroom available while we sat and waited, waited, waited------
Microlite Mike 07/19/22 08:44am Roads and Routes
RE: Using a swamp cooler

Now... One thing that might help (I STRESS MIGHT) might also make thigns worse is "Misting" the condenser. You want to mist the "inlet" side of the condenser (On most A/C's that is the side you can't see.. Coleman it's the side you can see) How to do that safely is not something I wish to get into but they make mister nozzles for swamp cooling a patio. Two issues however.> Minerals can build up on the condenser clogging it. and discoloring it. and the dang mister nozzles like to clog. I don't have central air in my house as it would be a $10K investment at this point but I do have three A/C units, one window and two portables, that make the house quite comfortable during thee 20-30 days per year that temps are above 80. Each of these units have a "misting" system built in that merely sprays the condensate into the condenser cooling air stream. I;ve always wondered why RV A/C units don't use this same system and merely let the condensate flow out onto the roof where it dribbles on the ground where it's not wanted. One could fairly easily provide the same effect by merely placing a portable patio "mister" on the roof, close enough to the A/C unit that the mist is sucked into the cover's openings and then through the condenser. No more dangerous than operating the A/C on a foggy day or in a light rainstorm. Here's a $30 example available on Amazon: width=640 As an added benefit it might provide some cooling to the roof which would translate to less heat being transferred into the living area. The big downside to "misting" when using City Water is that Water is becoming extremely scarce in areas that are typically HOT. So much so that reservoirs are at record low levels. This may mean restrictions on this method by Park Owners. Lastly, ANY evaporative cooling method, swamp cooler or mister, will generate a lot of mineral buildup on surfaces if the water source is not relatively "Soft". I've seen swamp coolers in Arizona that look like they've been sprayed with lime and their evaporation mats totally plugged with mineral buildup from the water used.
Microlite Mike 07/18/22 08:17am Tech Issues
RE: Favorite way to skip the interstates?

Since I drive alone now since my wife passed away I just set my navigation program to "Avoid Interstates and No Toll Roads". My Tow Vehicle didn't come with an Infotainment Screen but I added one last year and I get great guidance on non-interstate routes. What's better than the map/atlas method is that both my navigation programs will provide real time traffic and construction information. Also, no fumbling or re-folding required with the Nav programs :)
Microlite Mike 07/16/22 05:07pm Roads and Routes
RE: Inverter wire size?

I find charts for wire size to often be confusing and too broad in their recommendations. For 12 volt circuits (automotive/RV) I prefer this online calculator. Parameters needed for calculations are the maximum amperage of the device you're going to power (which for Inverters needs to take into consideration surge capacitiy),and the length of the wire in BOTH directions as it's a DC Circuit. If using a chassis/frame ground at each end then just use the total length of the wire between battery and device PLUS the wire from battery to frame and device to frame. This calculator also shows voltage drop for each wire size and the max length at stated amperage to achieve the desired max percentage voltage drop.
Microlite Mike 07/16/22 05:00pm Tech Issues
RE: More on LFP Charging

Actually 7.9 kwh is one of the better days. Longer daylight hours and sun shining the more power I can purposely use (waste) in the way of the air conditioner. As you know being a veteran to solar... late spring, summer, early fall really isn’t a challenge for off grid living with solar/ batteries. Winter with shorter days, low sun arc and flat mounted panels can be a little more challenging but nothing that a generator can't handle with a 1 or 2 hours run for a hold over charge (20-40% SOC boost) using the lfp batteries in a partial SOC for long periods. 175-225ah is a normal daily use anything over that is air conditioner running, fridge turned over to electric instead of propane, just using any excess power that solar is producing because it's there. :) And on days you don't need the A/C you can always dump the extra power into your water heater and save propane. Then again with almost 8 Kw of power potential you may not even need propane for heating water;)
Microlite Mike 07/11/22 07:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Have you ever used all the stove burners at once?

Only two things I know of that will limit the number of burners you CAN use. First is the size of the regulator at the tanks and second is the amount of heat you can stand in the RV. At one time during a family outing I had all three burners on (at different flame levels) as well as the two burners at my outside Kitchen running. With all windows and vents wide open it got a little warm inside. FWIW, I dumped the tiny, cheap, regulator that came on my trailer for a Marshall MEGR-253 regulator that can deliver 225,000 BTU/Hr. Old one was about half that.
Microlite Mike 07/09/22 11:55am Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
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